Date post: | 12-Aug-2015 |
Category: |
Documents |
Upload: | samantha-coomber |
View: | 44 times |
Download: | 3 times |
Insight B A L I
W O R D S S A M A N T H A C O O M B E R
EATS OF EDEN
TALENTED INTERNATIONAL
CHEFS ARE COOKING UP A STORM IN BALI , INSPIRED BY THE LOC AVORE SPIRIT AND THE ABUNDANCE OF
FRESH PRODUCE
07 2 014
52 Jetstar.com
Jetstar.com 55
B A L IInsight07 2 014
W O R D S X X X • P H O T O S X X X
A R G U A B LY, B R I T I S H - B O R N C H E F - R E S T A U R A T E U R W I L L M E Y R I C K I S T H E P O S T E R B O Y F O R B A L I ’ S O R G A N I C , L O C A L LY S O U R C E D A N D S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y C R U S A D E . He’s also the visionary behind Sarong and Mama San, award-winning fine dining restaurants presenting “authentic Asian street food gone posh”. Wherever possible, Mama San and Sarong source their ingredients locally or from quality suppliers in Bali and, increasingly, other islands. “I’m always seeking local organic products hand-picked for my kitchens — this supports Bali’s small-scale farmers,” Meyrick says.
One standout ingredient is betel leaf, which stars in Sarong’s best-selling dishes such as raw tuna betel leaf with lemongrass shallots. Meyrick also sources free-range kampung ducks and long peppers, which turn up on Sarong’s menu as
slow-roasted kampung duck with bumbu gede (a Balinese spice mix), and finely flaked sea salt, palm sugar and cashew nut from Karangasem on Bali’s east coast.
Canadian chef-restaurateur Kevin Cherkas — who has worked at some of the best restaurants in the world including elBulli — came to Bali and opened Cuca, serving comfort food
in an ultra-modernist setting in Jimbaran. Cherkas combines Western cooking techniques with the finest Indonesian products; even the wines and cheeses are sourced locally.
“Why import when Indonesia has amazing ingredients like papayas, strawberries, cashew nuts and ginger blossom — all aromatic and with unlimited possibilities?” he says.
Cherkas’ menu is based on the daily or seasonal availability of ingredients. The result is sublime mouthfuls bursting with tropical flavours: think Spanish-style tapas and crunchy Greek-style salads. Try the glazed young carrot salad with zingy lemon balm, mountain strawberries, whipped avocado and cashews.
In the ongoing quest for fresh produce, in-resort organic gardens seem a natural solution. At Hanging Gardens Ubud, the estate’s
“WHY IMPORT WHEN INDONESIA
HAS AMA ZING INGREDIENTS
L IKE PAPAYAS, STR AWBERRIES,
C ASHE W NUTS AND GINGER BLOSSOM”
A B U R S T O F F L A V O U R S
Kevin Cherkas uses seasonal ingredients
to create tropical flavours
W H E R E T H E R E ’ S A W I L L . . .
Will Meyrick searches out the best of Bali’s organic ingredients for his restaurant
56 Jetstar.com
B A L IInsight
W O R D S X X X X X X • P H O T O S X X X X X X
07 2 014
Jetstar flies up to 2 times daily to Bali.
Visit jetstar.com to book
Travel info i
Sarong Restaurant Bali19x, Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan, tel: +62 (361)
473 7809, sarongbali.com
Mama San, Kitchen-bar-lounge135, Jl. Raya Kerobokan Br. Taman, Bali,
tel: +62 (361) 730 436, mamasanbali.com
CucaJl. Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran, tel: +62 (361)
708 066, cucaflavor.com
Hanging Gardens UbudDesa Buahan, Payangan, Gianyar, tel: +62 (361) 982 700, hanginggardensubud.com
The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Ubud, Gianyar,
tel: +62 (361) 975 685, GHMhotels.com
TAKE ME THERE
ever-expanding organic gardens follow the contours of the land and extend to the Ayung River. Brazilian chef Adriano Ricco, who earned a spot on the Best Chefs America 2013 list, works together with the head gardener to cultivate avocado, vanilla, cinnamon, star fruit, coconut, coffee, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, turmeric, ginger, basil and more. Practically self-sufficient on micro greens and herbs, Ricco says he wishes he could grow everything he needs: “But it’s impossible.”
“Brazil and Bali are roughly on the same latitude with similarities in climate and produce, so I can relate to the ingredients here,” Ricco says. His innovative twists on old classics — purple sweet potato samosa with curry leaf spices and house-made yoghurt dip, and basil and lemongrass panna cotta with celery citrus confit have become the restaurant’s signature items.
Another boutique retreat with
organic kitchen gardens is The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah. Executive chef Khairudin “Dean” Nor not only personally cultivates these gardens, his home on the estate is surrounded by working rice fields. The fruits of his labour include vegetables, edible flowers, spices and herbs such as rucola, lemon thyme and coriander, among others. There’s also a small pond with freshwater fish.
The produce from the gardens is used in dishes offered at The Restaurant — an open-air space set among the rice fields, which
incidentally, provide organic red rice. “We’re so inspired by the location. I use as much island-grown produce as possible,” says Khairudin.
This Singaporean is most captivated by lemon basil, grown here with other basil varieties including sweet, cinnamon and purple — which end up in sorbets, salads and cocktails. Signature dishes include red quinoa salad and tuna tataki with red ginger flower salsa. “In Singapore you can get almost anything and everything, but there, I could only grow herbs in small flower pots!” he says.
One thing’s for sure, this locavore trend can only mean better and fresher pickings for visitors looking for memorable meals.
D E A N ’ S B A C K Y A R D
Living among rice fields, Khairudin
is inspired to grow herbs and edible
flowers
R I C H H A R V E S TAdriano Ricco’s
restaurant is self-sufficient where
micro greens and herbs are concerned
“WE ’RE SO INSPIRED BY THE LOCATION. I USE
AS MUCH ISL AND-GROWN PRODUCE
AS POSSIBLE”