Lawn Care...Lawn Renovation • Renovation is seeding into the existing turf. • Lawns can be...

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An Equal Access/Equal Opportunity University

John OrickPurdue Extension Master Gardener State CoordinatorDepartment of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture

Lawn Care


Understanding Lawn Grasses


Cool-Season vs. Warm-Season TurfgrassesCool-Season Species:• Kentucky bluegrass (statewide)• Perennial ryegrass (statewide)• Tall fescue (statewide)• Fine fescues (north and central)

Warm-Season Species:• Zoysiagrass (central and south)• Bermudagrass (south)

Day-time temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees F are optimum for growth.

Day-time temperatures of 80+ degrees F and soil temp of 70+ are optimum for growth.

(Page 295 in Purdue MG Manual)

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Annual Grasses vs. Perennial Grasses

• All grasses grown in lawns and other turf areas are perennial grasses.

• Sometimes annual grasses such as crabgrass infest lawns as weeds.

• Annual grasses can also be a contaminant in seed mixes sold for lawns.

• What’s the difference between an annual and a perennial?

Photo by Doug Akers


Bunch-type Grasses vs. Spreading Grasses• Bunch-type grasses: Don’t spread

rapidly but enlarge slowly over time. • Turf-type tall fescue• Perennial ryegrass• Fine fescues

• Spreading grasses: Spread rapidly and are able to grow to fill in areas in the lawn thinned by drought or others lawn problems. • Kentucky bluegrass• Creeping bentgrass (golf greens & tees

only)• Zoysiagrass (grown in southern IN)

Many spreading grasses spread by rhizomes.


Taking Care of Cool-Season Turfgrasses

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Mowing

• Mow high for better turf health (3 inches).

• Don�t remove more than 1/3 of leaf area.

• Return clippings to lawn.


Photo by Aaron Patton

Photo by Mary Welch-Keesey



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Mowing


• Keep blades sharp!• Dull mower injury can

affect turf health.• Mow in different

directions.


Irrigation• Frequency should be

determined by turf appearance (“foot-printing”). Deep and infrequent irrigations

• 4 a.m. to 8 a.m.• Automatic irrigation systems

are the most efficient way to water lawns.

• Dormancy is a safety mechanism initiated by the grass plants.




FertilizationFall Fertilization is most beneficial for cool-season turfgrasses:• Apply 60-100% of the total nitrogen between late Summer and late

Fall to promote:o Root growtho Greener coloro Prevent Spring flush of growtho Improve densityo Increased competition with weeds

Photos by John Orick

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Figure from AY-22-W - Fertilizing Established Cool-season Lawns: Maximizing Turf Health with Environmentally Responsible Programs by Cale A. Bigelow, Jim J. Camberato, Aaron J. Patton


(Pages 297-298 in Purdue MG Manual)


Nitrogen Sources

Graphic by John Orick

Quick Release Slow-ReleaseUrea Sulfur coated urea

Ammonical nitrogen Polymer coated urea

Ammonium nitrate Methylene ureas

Organics

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Fertilizer LabelPhoto by John Orick





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Information Needed to Make an Accurate Fertilizer Application:

• Area of lawn • Rate of Nitrogen (# lbs. Nitrogen/1,000 ft2)• Fertilizer analysis (example: 30-10-15, 29-5-3, etc.)• Total amount of fertilizer product needed for given area• Correct setting for your fertilizer product and spreader type

and brand


Calculating the Pounds of Fertilizer to Apply

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Calculating the Pounds of Fertilizer to Apply


https://turf.purdue.edu/fertilizer-calculator/


Spreader Type: Rotary vs. Drop

Rotary Spreader Drop Spreader

Photo by John Orick

https://turf.purdue.edu/fertilizer-calculator/

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Effective Spreader Pattern


Fertilization: Spreader Setting

Spreader setting is affected by:• Fertilizer product• Spreader type and brand• Recommended rate of

application• Walking speed

Calibrating a spreader for the product is the most accurate way to determine spreader setting.

Some products and/or spreader companies provide this information.

Photos by John Orick


Fertilization: Calibration

3. Fertilize the area at an approximate spreader setting and re-weigh the fertilizer remaining in the spreader hopper.

1. Measure a 1,000 ft2 section of lawn

2. Measure out slightly more fertilizer than needed for 1,000 ft2 and add it to the spreader hopper.

4. Adjust the spreader setting and repeat the procedure if needed.


Photo by John Orick

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Aerification/Thatch Removal

Photo by Zac Reicher

Thatch Layer

• Clippings do not contribute to it

• High nitrogen fertilizer could cause a

thatch problem

• ½ to 1.0 inch aerify several times a year

• Over 1.0 inch, cut off sod and reseed.

Aerification/Dethatching

• Aerfication reduces thatch and

compaction

• 20-40 holes per square foot 2-3 inches

deep

• Aerify/dethatch in Spring or Fall

• Power Rake is a useful tool

• Avoid rolling lawns with heavy clay soils!(Pages 299-300 in Purdue MG Manual)



Im age: C o u rtesy o f U n iversity o f Id ah o Exten sio n

Im age: La te W in ter o r V ery Ea rly Sp rin g O verseed in g to R ed u ce Su m m er W eed Pro b lem s. G len n H ard eb eck. M arch 2005.Pu rd u e P lan t an d Pest D iagn o stic L ib rary.

Ph o to b y M ary W elch -Keesey


Video by John Orick

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Establishing a new lawn


Seed vs. SodWhy is there a choice?Seed:• Less expensive• Takes longer to establish• Late-Summer to early fall is best time

so limits scheduling• Best option for larger areas and

renovation• Best option for heavy clay soils

Sod:• Expensive• Good for smaller spaces and slopes• An option for when seeding window

is missed(Page 300 in the Purdue MG Manual)

Photo by Tim Thompson


Selecting a Turfgrass SpeciesFull Sun :• 100% Kentucky bluegrass (2-3 varieties)• 100% Turf-type tall fescue (2-3 varieties)• 85-90% Kentucky bluegrass + 10-15% perennial

ryegrass• 90% turf-type tall fescue + 10% Kentucky bluegrass

Partial Shade:• 30-50% Shade-tolerant Kentucky bluegrass + 50-

70% fine fescue• 100% fine fescue• 100% Turf-type tall fescue

Temporary Cover only:• 100% Annual ryegrass (don’t let it go to seed!)


(Pages 300-305 in Purdue MG Manual)

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Purchase Quality Grass Seed

Source: Purchasing Quality Grass Seed for Your Lawn – AY-25

Item Preferred RangePurity >90%Germination >80%Crop Seed <0.5%Weed Seed <0.3%Noxious Weed Seed

0

Inert Material <8%Date Tested Last 9 months

Page 303 in the Purdue MG Manual


Seed Label

Photo by John Orick


Purchasing Quality Grass Seed: Final Thoughts

Avoid the following when purchasing seed:

• Buying out of bulk bins

• Beware of products with exaggerated claims

• Seed mixes that contain 'Linn' perennial ryegrass,

‘Kenblue’ Kentucky bluegrass, and ‘KY31’ tall

fescue

• Seed mixes that contain annual ryegrass

• Seed mixes where the varieties are not stated

• Seed cost is not the only factor affecting

establishment cost.

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Scheduling Seeding

• Northern ½ of Indiana: o August 15 – Sept. 15

• Southern ½ of Indiana:o Sept. 1 – 30

• Spring seeding can have problems:o Competition w/crabgrasso Soil Temperature slow to increaseo Summer stress is soon after germination

• Dormant seeding

( Photo by Purdue Agricultural Communication/Keith Robinson)

Page 303-304 in Purdue MG Manual


Steps to Seed Establishment

• Soil test• Prepare seedbed • Apply seed uniformly (1/2 one

direction and ½ the opposite direction)

• Drag or rake the area to promote good �seed-soil� contact

• Apply starter fertilizer at a rate based on P level from soil test

• Mulch lightly (1 bale straw/1,000 ft2 )

Source: Purdue Master Gardener Manual


What does my turf really need ?

1. Get a soil test2. Check pH, Phosphorus (P),

Potassium (K)Photo by Aaron Patton

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0The pH scale

14

5.8-6.57

Optimumfor grasses

neutral

alkaline

acid



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Post-Seeding Care

• Water often in shallow doses.

• Mow as soon as possible.• Fertilize 4-6 weeks after

germination• No broadleaf weed control

before area is mowed 4 times.

• Be careful with crabgrass preventers. (can use products with Mesotrione)



Photos by Aaron Patton

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Lawn Renovation

• Renovation is seeding into the existing turf.

• Lawns can be renovated if at 50% turf cover exists.

• Mow the area short and remove the debris.

• Prepare seedbed with aerifier or power rake.

• Follow same steps for establishing a new lawn.

Photo of renovation?


Image: Courtesy of University of Idaho Extension

Image: Late Winter or Very Early Spring Overseeding to Reduce Summer Weed Problems. Glenn Hardebeck. March 2005.Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Library.Photo by Mary Welch-Keesey


Video by John Orick

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Video by John Orick




New Lawns from Sod

• Expensive • May be great for small

areas or severe slopes.• Option when seeding

window has passed

Photo by Aaron Patton Page 306 in Purdue MG Manual

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Sod Installation Steps

Photos by Aaron Patton


Lawn Problems

An Equal Access/Equal Opportunity UniversitySand box turtle lid disease


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ShadeConsiderations for shady lawns:

• Increase light• Increase air flow over turf• Reduce traffic• Adjust fertilizer applications• Don’t over-water• Mow at 3 inches or higher and less

frequently• Choose shade tolerant grasses

(creeping red fescue)• Consider an alternative: shade loving

groundcovers, mulch, flowers, etc.

Photo by John Orick


Fine fescues (Creeping red fescue)

Excellent

Tall fescue Good

Kentucky bluegrass

Fair

Zoysiagrass Fair

Bermudagrass Very Poor




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Cultural Methods of Weed ControlGood management practices

• Adapted turfgrass• Fertilization• Watering• Mowing correctly

• Frequency• Height

• Drainage• Compaction relief• Disease and insect control


• Winter annuals– Sept – Nov. optimum control window– Should I apply a herbicide in the spring?– Common chickweed, etc.

• Summer annuals – When at seedling stage (May-June)– Avoid applications on warm summer days (see label)– Prostrate spurge, prostrate knotweed, etc.

• Perennials – Fall applications work best!– Late September through mid – November is best– Second best timing is late April and May

• Applying earlier with an amine may reduce control • Use an ester formulation if spraying in early to mid-April

– Dandelion, ground ivy, violet, broadleaf plantain, etc.

https://turf.purdue.edu/turfgrass-weeds/

Broadleaf life cycles


Broadleaf Weeds• Identify weed species and life

cycle• Use mixes of 2,4-D, MCPP, and

dicamba (sold as Trimec and other brand names)

• Use products containing triclopyrto control difficult weeds (ground ivy, clover, violet, etc.)

• Make certain environmental conditions are rightGround Ivy (Creeping Charlie)


https://turf.purdue.edu/turfgrass-weeds/

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• Annual weeds are easier to control in the seedling stage when they are small

• Sprays give better control than granules• Avoid extreme temperatures. Apply

when temperatures are between 40 and 85°F and sunny

• Typically need a rain free period of at least 6 hours

• Apply during calm periods for reduced risk of drift

• Do not apply to drought stressed turf• Do not seed after application (check

label)Photo by Fred Whitford

Post-emergence Herbicide Use


• Wrong weed• Wrong herbicide• Wrong rate – don’t overdose• Poor spray coverage• Wrong Timing

– Weed growth stage• Too big, too small

– Environmental conditions• Too dry, too hot, too cold, too windy,

etc.Photo by Fred Whitford

Post-emergence Herbicide Failure



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Oops! We meant to apply Trimec not RoundupOh, and we also skipped a few spots

$50,000 mistake by this company


An Equal Access/Equal Opportunity UniversityPhoto by Doug Akers

• Preemergence herbicides as early as March 1.

• Postemergence (too late?)• Dimension (dithiopyr) – 2 tiller stage• Products with Quinclorac or

Fenoxaprop• Good cultural practices are

important.

Source: Control of Crabgrass in Home Lawns, Zac Reicher. 2007. Purdue Extension publication AY-10-W.

Predicted crabgrass germination dates. Apply preemergenceherbicides at least 2 weeks before these dates.Crabgrass

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large crabgrass

hairy stemshairy leaves

ligule

Seed head


Weed seeds germinate and are controlled as they come in contact with the herbicide.

Herbicide layerRoots of established turfgrass are below the herbicide layer

Preemergence herbicides

An Equal Access/Equal Opportunity UniversityPhoto by Aaron Patton

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An Equal Access/Equal Opportunity University Photo by Aaron Patton


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Perennial Grassy Weeds • Use a non-selective

herbicide to kill the grassy weed

• Reseed area• Better in most cases to

just live with it.• New products are

being developed to selectively control these grasses.Photo by Zac Reicher


Moles • Earthworms are the main food source.• Active in Spring and Fall.• Reproduce in Feb.-March.• Avoid �home remedies�.• Set at least 2-3 traps per straightest run.• Patience and persistence is the key!• Mole baits that mimic an earthworm are

available.


Photo by John Orick

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Video by John Orick


https://turf.purdue.edu/


https://turf.purdue.edu/turf-tips/

https://turf.purdue.edu/

https://turf.purdue.edu/turf-tips/

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Acknowledgements

This PowerPoint presentation was developed from presentations by

John Orick, Purdue Extension Master Gardener State Coordinator and

Dr. Aaron Patton, Turfgrass Extension Specialist, Purdue University Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture


John OrickPurdue Extension Master

Gardener State CoordinatorDepartment of Horticulture and

Landscape ArchitecturePurdue University

West Lafayette, [email protected]

765-496-7956

Thank you!

mailto:[email protected]

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Lawn Care...Lawn Renovation • Renovation is seeding into the existing turf. • Lawns can be...

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