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Leica Basic Repair

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    Factory tips on thM-Series Leica

    The M-series Leica is still theandard of excellence among

    ngefinder-type 35mm cameras. Yetspite Leica's popularity and lengthtime in service, there seems to be ang-fe l t vacuum of factoryormation in the repair field atast, so it appears from thedividual questions we've beenswering at National Camera.So instructor Monty Witt venturedth to Leitz in hopes of obtainingme first-hand factory servicing tips.e notes he brought back from Newrsey should be of prime interest to

    RAFTSMAN readers. And we'd likeexpress our gratitude to Leitz for

    eir courtesy and assistance inthering this material.Although Monty also receivednch training on the Leicaflex and

    e Leica M5, we'll confine ourselvess time to the notes he kept on the2, M3, and M4 ( mainly because ofe immediate availability of an M2hich was used for most of thestrations). We plan to pass along

    e Leicaflex and M5 information inure CRAFTSMAN articles.n addition to Monty's notes, we'll

    clude some basic information on theseries Leicas. If you're already aoficient Leica technician, pleaseck with us you should find

    something new and useful besideswhat may already be familiar.

    Disassembly Steps For The

    M-Series Leicas

    The Leica M2 illustrated in Fig. 1 isa slightly simplified version of theoriginal M-series Leica, the M3. TheM3 set the design precedents for theother M-series Leicas: the Ml(further simplified from the M2) andthe MP (a special model for pressphotographers quite similar to theM2). More recently, the M4 (an

    improved version of the M3) took overthe top roost. But all the Leica modelsmentioned are nearly identical fromthe technician's viewpoint. Only theM5, which we'll not discuss here,represents a radical departure fromthe original design.

    If you've been in the repair businessfor any length of time, you can nodoubt take a Leica apart. But we findthat most technicians spend timeremoving parts that could just as well

    be left in place. So we'll outline thedisassembly techniques to reach theadjustments and timing points ofconcern.

    Starting with the top cover platedisassembly, remove the screw at thetop of the lens mounting ring, Fig. 1.

    This screw is normally sealed wblack locking agent. Since the s

    must be removed to pull either thcover plate or the body shell, youfrequently tell from the conditiothe locking agent whether or nocamera has previously disassembled.

    Next, remove the camera's plate as you would for loading The Leicas based on the M3 decarry over the load-from-the-botechnique of the screw-mount LeBut the M-series Leicas addehinged back to facilitate loading.

    can remove the hinged backpushing the release pin from leright in Fig. 2.

    Reaching into the supply-scavity, wedge the rewind forprevent it from turning. Then, uMultispan wrench to unscrewcover screw that holds the reknob, Fig. 3. An exception here iM4the rewind knob in the M4 sa convenient cant and is held setscrew.

    Probably one of the mdisassembly problems faced bytechnician is the removal of the lever cover screw, Fig. 3. The lever cover screw has a right-thread, but it may be extremely To avoid scarring the polis

    NGEFINDER WINDOWFRAME LINE

    MASK WINDOW

    COVER SCREW FOR

    VERTICAL RANGEFINDER

    ADJUSTMENT

    gure 1 Figure 2

    VIEWFINDER WINDOW

    RELEASE PIN

    FRAME LINE SELECTOR LEVERREWIND LEVER

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    rface, use a Flexiclamp wrench or alit collet to unscrew the wind leverver screw. You can then lift off thend lever and, in the M2, the counteral.Also, if you're working on the M2,move the cover plate retainingrew shown in Fig. 3. You won't finds retaining screw in the M3 or the4 instead, unscrew the retainingg accessible after removing thend lever. The reason for the

    ference is that the AA2 has anternal, manually set counter dial.

    ut in the M3 and AA4, the counter dialunderneath the top cover plate. Thering-loaded counter dial in the M3d AA4 automatically returns whenu pull out the film take-up spool.Another tricky part to remove is thetaining ring around the rewindaft. The problem here is that

    andard tools can't do the job theren't enough room for a Flexiclampench and there are no notches for a

    ultispan wrench. So here's one placeat you may wish to design a special,bular tool that fits over the retainingg.The remaining top cover platemponents are no problem. Take oute speed knob retaining screw, Fig.and lift off the speed knob. And

    move the four screws holding thecessory shoe, also shown in Fig. 3.t off the accessory shoe, thecessory shoe pressure plate, ande spring.

    Proceeding to the back of themera, unscrew the two flash socketver rings and the two flash socketshings. If you're working on the M3,

    so unscrew the eyepiece frame.ow, lif t off the top cover plate.Before we go into the adjustmentsd timing points now visible, we'llmplete the disassembly of the bodyell and the rangefinder, Fig. 4. Youay, however, wish to replace thend lever with its cover screw toamine the operation at the top of the

    mera. Then, turn over the camerad remove the three screws holdinge bottom cover plate, Fig. 5. Lift offe bottom cover plate and the baseck plate.

    djustments At The Bottom Ofe M-Series Leica

    Several adjustment points are nowble at the bottom of the camera,. 6. Notice that the M-series Leicasparted from the conventional

    thods of locking the curtain take-upers. To adjust the curtain tensions,

    REWINDKNOB

    COVER

    SCREW

    COUNTER DIAL WIND LEVE

    COVER SCR

    COVPLA

    RETAINISCRE

    SPEED KNOB

    RETAINING SCREWACCESSORY SHOE SCREWS

    Figure 3

    RANGEFINDER

    ASSEMBLY

    SPEED SELECTOR WIND CAM

    SAFETY SWITCH FOR "FP" SYNC CONTACTS

    Figure 4

    BOTTOM COVER PLATE RETAINING SCREWS

    Figure 5

    PIVOT PLATE

    FOR CURTAIN

    WIND GEAR

    AND OPENING

    CURTAIN LATCH

    BASE LOCK PLAT

    CLOSING CURTA

    TAKE-UP ROLLE

    END OF OPENING

    CURTAIN LATCH "X"-SYNC ADJUSTMENT

    DRUM BEARING PLATE LO

    CO

    OPENING CUTAKE-UP RO

    CLOSING CURTAINBRAKE ADJUSTMENT

    SETSCREW

    ADJUSTMENTFLAT

    RELEASE

    SPRING

    Figure 6

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    se a screwdriver with a bladeightly wider than the slotted ends ofe take-up rollers central shafts.sert the screwdriver into the slotted

    nd of one central shaft and pushown that depresses the lockingollar and frees the central shaft. Youan now turn the screwdriver to add

    let off tension.Another departure from tradition ise elimination of the interlocking-ud arrangement common to the

    um-type focal-plane shutters. In thehutter-cocked position, a slot in theurtain wind gear clears the drumear at the bottom of the curtainum. Then, the opening curtaintch, Fig. 6, drops into engagementth the opening curtain cam

    nderneath the drum gear.

    Depressing the release buttonushes the end of the flat releasepring against the opening curtaintch. So the opening curtain latch,ushed out of engagement with the

    pening curtain cam, frees thepening curtain. Simultaneously, theat release spring allows the closingurtain latch, Fig. 7, to drop down andngage the closing curtain cam.

    meeting these specifications is thesetscrew on the flat release spring,Fig. 6.

    The "X"-sync adjustment isanother conveniently locatedadjustment point visible in Fig. 6. Thecollar with the Multispan notchescontrols an eccentrically positionedstud at the other side of the bottomplate. And the stud, in turn, controlsthe position of the fixed "X" contact.Turning the collar corrects the "X"-

    sync delay by setting the proper spacegap between the two contacts.A second eccentric controls the

    tension of the closing curtain brakespring, Fig. 6. The brake spring,which we'll see after removing thebody shell, engages a cam operatedby the closing curtain drum. And byturning the eccentric from the bottomof the camera, you can control theamount of braking action.

    Check the proper tension for theclosing curtain brake by first setting

    the shutter to "bulb." Then, cock andrelease the shutter. The closingcurtain should be stopped by thebrake spring before reaching theextreme limit of its travel. So try

    pulling the closing curtain indirection of its release movemeyou should be able to pull the cuan additional 0.1mm0.5mm.

    In some cameras, there's alseccentric adjustment for the opecurtain brake; the opening cubrake eccentric is shown from a LM3 in Fig. 8. Check the adjustmethe opening curtain brake by hothe shutter open at the "bulb" seNow, looking from the front o

    focal-plane aperture, examine position of the opening curtain bthe right-hand side of the camethe opening curtain brake is propadjusted, the edge of the opecurtain bar should be 1.5mm2.5mm beyond the edge of the foplane aperture.

    Before moving too far away Fig. 6, we should point out the baycap in the focal-plane light shield.can remove the bayonet cap rotating it a partial turn. As you

    see a little later, removing bayonet cap uncovers an access in the focal-plane light shield a which makes it easier to reach onthe rangefinder retaining screws.

    RELEASE BUTTON LEICA M3 OPENI NG CURTAIN BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

    CLOSING CURTAIN

    LATCH

    DRUM GEAR

    LAT

    ELEASE

    PRING

    gure 7 '

    OPENING CURTAINLATCH

    RELEASE CYCLE

    Leica's specifications here are thate opening curtain should releasehen you depress the release buttonpproximately 1.5mm. Once you letp on the release button, the flatelease spring raises the closingurtain latch above the closing curtainam. Checking the operation atbulb," the release button shouldave an additional 0.2mm upwardavel after the closing curtain hasleased. The adjustment point for

    Figure 8

    BODY SHELL

    SCREWS

    Figure 9 RANGEFINDER CONTRO

    ELEASE

    ROD

    REWIND

    LEVER

    SCREW

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    emoving The Body Shell

    The next step is to separate theody shell from the shutter

    mechanism. First, take out the rewindver by removing its retaining screw,ig. 9. Then, remove the five screwsolding the body shell, also pointedut in Fig. 9. You may find itecessary to remove the frame lineelector lever to reach the upper body-hell screw at the right of the lens

    mounting ring.The AA2 we used for the illustrations

    oes not have a self timer. But ifou've worked on M-series Leicasefore, you probably know that theocking lever in models with a selfmer has a left-hand thread. Whatou may not have known is that youon't have to remove the self-timerocking lever to pull the body shell ust cock the self timer prior toeparating the body shell from thehutter mechanism.

    Some manipulation but noressure is now required to remove

    he body shell. As you pull off the bodyhell, push in the rangefinder controlrm (against its tension) forearance.

    angefinder Adjustment Points

    nd Disassembly Procedure

    We can now more easily point outhe rangefinder adjustments. Besideshe normal horizontal (infinity) and

    vertical adjustments, there areadjustments for the linearity atdifferent distances and for theovertravel of the rangefinder control

    rm.

    Make your infinity and 10-meterangefinder adjustments by turninghe eccentric shaft on the rangefinderontrol arm roller, Fig. 10. If theangefinder aligns properly at infinity

    and 10 meters, check the alignment ofhe superimposed images with aarget placed one meter from the

    ocal plane.The adjustment point for the one-meter target is the eccentric at thether end of the rangefinder control

    arm, Fig. 10. To turn the one-meterccentric, first loosen the rangefinderontrol arm retaining screw. You mayave to alternate between the twoccentrics, checking and adjusting at

    he designated distances, to correcthe linearity for all distance settings.

    In Fig. 10, the rangefinder controlrm has moved (via spring tension)s far as it can go toward the front of

    he camera. Here, the rangefinder

    INFINITY 10-MET

    ADJUSTM

    Figure 10

    ONE-METER

    ADJUSTMENT

    RANGE

    ASSRET

    S

    THIS LIGHT SHIELD MAYBE LOOSE

    FRAME LINE PIN

    THIS LIGSHIELD IS L

    RANGEFINDER CONTROL

    ARM SHAFT

    Figure 1 7

    stop arm comes against anothereccentric. This eccentric is theovertravel adjustment for therangefinder control arm. In otherwords, at the infinity setting the lenspushes the rangefinder control armtoward the back of the camera. But

    the rangefinder control arm shouldnot touch the eccentric at infinity you should be able to push therangefinder control arm a slightdistance beyond infinity before it isstopped by the eccentric.

    The vert ical rangefinderadjustment, also shown in Fig. 10, isstill accessible after replacing the topcover plate; just removing the screwshown in Fig. 1 provides access to thevertical adjustment point. So you can

    make all rangefinder adjustmentswith the camera assembled thedistance adjustments are accessiblethrough the lens opening, and thevertical adjustment is accessiblethrough the clearance hole in the topcover plate.

    Removing the rangefinderassembly disturbs the setting of theone-meter eccentric and could disturbthe overtravel eccentric. But you canscribe the positions of the eccentricsprior to disassembly. On reassembly,aligning the scribe marks saves a lotof time in the adjusting department.

    Now, remove the two rangeassembly retaining screws shoFig. 10. And, after scribing themeter eccentric's position, rethe rangefinder control arm sTake out the one-meter eccentrrangefinder control arm, and

    rangefinder stop arm.There's one more screw holdi

    rangefinder assembly thescrew which passes throughovertravel eccentric. But you find that this screw is a little dto reach. So we've finally come purpose behind removing the bacap in the focal-plane light sInsert a long screwdriver througlight shield access hole and unthe overtravel eccentric retascrew.

    Next, carefully lift offrangefinder assembly; as you cain Fig. 11, there's a loose light at the bottom of the rangefindyou do encounter a damrangefinder, you'll usually havreplace the complete assembly sin Fig. 11 individual rangefreplacement parts are not availa

    Although you may have revthe sequence in the past, it's easremove the focal-plane light after taking out the rangeassembly. So remove the

    VERTICAL

    ADJUSTMENT

    OVERTRAVELADJUSTMENT

    RANGEFINDER

    STOP ARM

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    FOCAL-PLANE LIGHT SHIELD RETAINING SCREWS

    Figure 12"FP" SYNC CONTACTS

    WHEN SELFMER IS USED,

    IS HELD

    Y THESE

    WO SCREWS

    SAFETY SWITCH FOR

    X" SYNC CONTACTS

    CURTAIN WIND GEAR

    "X" SYNC

    CONTACTS

    CURTAIN

    DRUM

    TUBE FOR ROUTING

    WIRES TO "X" SYNC

    CONTACTS AND

    SAFETY SWITCH

    igure 13

    1/8 SECOND ADJUSTMENT SPEEDS ESCAPEMENT ADJUSTMENT LEVER

    ACCESSORY SHOE MOUNTINGPLATE SCREW

    gure 14

    SPEEDS ESCAPEMENT PIVOT SCREW

    gure 15

    screws shown in Fig. 12 and li ft ofocal-plane light shield.

    Removing And Replacing Th

    Speeds Escapement

    The present stage of disassmay be as far as you'll normafor routine cleaning and lubricBut there is one more recommestep the removal of the sescapement at the top of the ca

    Fig. 13.If this is your first encounter wM-series Leica, the spescapement seems quite unVary ing amounts of reengagement are obtained by swthe entire escapement around apoint. The speeds escapeadjustment lever, Fig. 14, against the slow-speed cam, onecams moved by the speed select

    The eccentric pointed out in Fis your adjustment point for the

    speeds. After making the high-sadjustments (which we'll disculittle later), turn the adjustmeneccentric to correct the exposuthe 1/8 second setting.

    To remove the speeds escapefirst take out the screw holdinaccessory shoe mounting plate14. Now, lift aside the accessorymounting plate to expose the spescapement pivot screw, Fig. 15.

    Looking under the speed cbridge, Fig. 15, locate the spescapement pivot spring. The(upper) end of the spring hookspost on the underside of the control bridge, and the shorthooks to a stud on the spescapement.

    Disconnect the long end of thespring from the hooking post. remove the pivot screw, Fig. 15slide out the speeds escapetoward the front of the camera.

    As you've no doubt noticedpivot screw is sealed in this the locking agent is used to ho

    pivot screw adjustment for the pfreedom of the speeds escapemelet's take a moment to discusreassembly of the speeds escapeand the pivot screw adjusprocedure.

    First, set the speed selectorsecond and push the pallet follower toward the front ocamera, Fig. 16. Place the spring on top of the spescapement and slide the escapeinto place make sure that the

    control lever (on top of the sp

    SPEED CONTROL BRIDGE

    FP" CONTACTS GROUND WIRE

    SPEEDS ESCAPEMENT

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    scapement) is hooked behind theallet cam follower. Replace the pivotcrew and hook the pivot spring.Now, to adjust the pivot screw, holde speeds escapement against itspring tension away from the speedontrol cam stack. Tighten the pivotcrew until the speeds escapementannot move toward the speed controlam stack under its own tension.hen, back off the pivot screw untile speeds escapement does swing

    to contact with the speed controlam stack.Test your adjustment by pushing

    own on the speed control bridge ate point marked " X " in Fig. 15. The

    peeds escapement should still moveeely while you're exerting pressure.it doesn't, slightly back off the pivot

    crew. Finally, reseal the pivot screwhold your adjustment.

    lit-Width Adjustments

    Since we mentioned the slow-speeddjustment, let's look at the slit-widthdjustment at the back of the camera.he slit-width adjustment is theccentric post on the closing curtaintch, Fig. 17.Say that you've just released the

    hutter at one of the slit-width speeds.ou know that the opening curtainarts across the aperture, but theosing curtain is held back by theosing curtain latch. It's up to thepening curtain to disengage theosing curtain latch at the properme for the desired slit width.The part that disengages the closing

    urtain latch is the disengaging lever,g. 17. And the disengaging lever is

    ontrolled by the release cam, a camat spins with the opening curtainum. So, once the opening curtainas traveled a sufficient distance, thelease cam strikes the disengagingver. The disengaging lever, in turn,rikes the eccentric post on theosing curtain latch and frees theosing curtain.Turning the speed selector to thefferent shutter speeds positions thesengaging lever that's how thepeed selector changes the releaseoint of the closing curtain forfferent shutter speeds. From theont of the camera, Fig. 16, you canee the end of the disengaging leverat rides against the high-speed cam.The eccentric post on the closingrtain latch is the adjustment pointr all the slit-width speeds. Turninge eccentric post to correct 1/500

    cond and 1/250 second should bring

    PALLET CAM FOLL

    1/1000 SECOND CONTROL SECTION OF HIGH-SPEED CAM

    Figure 16

    DISENGAGING LEVER SLIT-WIDTH ECC

    Figure 17LATCH WHICH LIMITS THE FORWARD TRA

    THE WIND GEARS ON THE COCKING

    LATCH WHICH PREVENTS

    SPROCKET BACKLASH

    ONE-WAY C

    FOR WIND S

    Figure 18

    DISENGAGING LE

    CLOSING CURTAIN LATCH

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    the remaining speeds as well . But ife 1/1000 second is still out oferance, you have a slottedjustment on the high-speed cam,g. 16; reforming this section of thegh-speed cam affects only the 1/1000-cond setting. In fact, in the newerrsions of the M-series Leicas, thegh-speed cam is slotted at most ofe individual speeds to allow preciseustments throughout the speed

    nge. The slow-speed cam, which

    ntrols the speeds escapement, alsos slotted adjustment points fordividual speeds.

    her Tests And Adjustments Ine M-Series Leicas

    Although we've disassembled theca as far as would normally becessary, we'll mention some of thents to check in the event you gother. For one, check the action of

    three wind latches: the latches

    own in Figs. 18 and 19 must all dropo engagement simultaneously atend of the wind stroke.

    Another timing point is shown ing. 20. The curtain wind geargages the drum gear to advance thetains. If you'll cock the shutter d hold the wind lever fullyvanced the first tooth in thetain wind gear (clockwise of thet in the gear, as seen from the top)ould center on the opening curtainch. You can remove the curtain

    nd gear by taking out the pivot platem the bottom of the camera, Fig. 6.on reassembly, you must time the

    rtain wind gear to meet thendition just described.

    The plentiful adjustment points aree testimony to Leica quality. Forample, how many focal-planeutters allow you to adjust individualutter speeds within a range?other convincing example is thegnment adjustment for thetains. In most focal-plane shutters,

    u straighten a leaning curtain bymming the tapes. But most of theseries Leicas provide eccentricshings for the upper ends of the take-

    rollers, Fig. 21. Correcting theuareness of the curtain bars is just aatter of turning the eccentricshings.

    Perhaps the word of today isLR," but many a connoisseur stillmands the comparative quiet andnvenience of the M-series Leica. So

    hope this article has been of somep in giving the regal Leica theality field service it deserves

    LATCH WHICHLATCHES THEMAIN WINDGEAR AT THEEND OFITS MOTION

    Figure 19

    CURTAIN WIND GEAR

    Figure 20

    CLOSING CURTAIN BRAKE AS

    OPENING CURTAIN LATCH

    ECCENTRIC BUSHINGS FOR TAKE-UP ROLLERS

    Figure 21


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