LUNDS AND BYERLY'S KITCHEN A new first-of-its- kind food destination! (PAGE 14) SUMMER 2014 FREE 03 COMPLIMENTARY Lunds and Byerly’s COOL COMFORTS: Creative ice cream treats for hot summer get-togethers AUTHENTIC BARBECUE: Regional flavors on your backyard grill VEGETABLE REDUX: Rethink veggies with patties, croquettes, and fritters Summer’s Sweet Surprise HONEY A bit of POPOVER PANCAKE WITH HONEY SPICED APPLES (RECIPE PAGE 44) E LLIE KRIEGER: “WEEKNIGHT WONDERS”
Transcript
LUNDS AND BYERLY'S KITCHENA new fi rst-of-its-kind food destination!(PAGE 14)
SUMMER 2014
FREE03
COMPLIMENTARY
Lunds and Byerly’s
COOL COMFORTS: Creative ice cream treats for hot summer get-togethersAUTHENTIC BARBECUE: Regional fl avors on your backyard grill
VEGETABLE REDUX: Rethink veggies with patties, croquettes, and fritters
Summer’s Sweet SurpriseHONEYHONEY
A bit ofPOPOVER PANCAKE WITH HONEY SPICED APPLES(RECIPE PAGE 44)
Lunds and Byerly’sELLIE KRIEGER: “W
EEKNIGHT WONDERS”
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affects over 90% of people at some point in their lives. When adolescents are developing a strong sense of
self, self-worth, value, and identity, acne not only may cause low self-esteem, it can also cause long-term and permanent scars on the skin. While almost never life threatening, if it bothers the patient, it should be treated.
What Causes Acne?
Acne is a condition that manifests as red, tainted papules and pustules in the skin especially on the face, chest,
and back. It is a disorder of the skin’s pores and oil glands. All pores have a small oil gland attached to them at their bottom. When pores become plugged, the natural skin oil has nowhere to go and thus forms a bump in the skin. We also have normal natural bacteria that live on our skin attracted to the oil as a food source. � ese types of bacteria can also cause in� ammation in the skin.
How Common Is Acne?
Acne is genetically determined, running in families. As oil glands in the skin become activated by hormones
during adolescence, we � rst start to see acne. Unfortunately, acne doesn’t always disappear when we leave our teens. I treat many patients with acne into their 20s, 30s, and even beyond.
How Is Acne Treated?
Acne can be treated by unplugging the pores, reducing in� ammation, reducing bacteria, or actively decreasing
oil production. Topical preparations like chemical peels or salicylic acid will unplug follicles, while topical antibiotic solutions will decrease bacteria and certain acne creams can reduce in� ammation. Other medications and lasers can also decrease oil production. One of the best kept secrets when it comes to treating acne is that the vast majority of acne treatments are designed to improve acne, but very few
treatments are designed to clear acne up completely. � is is one of the biggest concerns my patients express to me. � ey are using medicine to treat acne, and while they say their condition is better, they still have acne. � e treatments make the condition better compared to not using any type of treatment, but they will not necessarily make acne 100% clear. � ere is one very e� ective medicine for the total clearing of acne, but it has side e� ects that need to be monitored carefully under the direction of a dermatologist.
What Action Steps Can Be Taken Now For Addressing My Acne?• Treat acne as soon as you notice it. • While there are many topical over-the-counter preparations, consult with a board-certi� ed dermatologist to identify the best treatment plan.• Always use very gentle, non-abrasive, non-harsh cleansers and moisturizers. • If problems persist aft er initial treatment, inform your dermatologist to revise your treatment plan.
Treating acne appropriately and early can prevent low self-esteem, discomfort, and scars that last a lifetime. Visit Crutch� eldDermatology.com for more information.
Follow us on Facebook and on Twitter @Crutch� eldDerm.
Ask DR. CRUTCHFIELD: SKIN CARE ADVICE FROM AN EXPERTACNE TREATMENT
ask the expert
BEFORE AFTER
Acne patient treated by Dr. Crutchfi eld
Charles E. Crutchfield III, MD, is a graduate of the Mayo Clinic Medical School and a Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School. Dr. Crutchfi eld is an annual selection in the “Top Doctors” issue of Mpls. St. Paul
magazine, and is the only dermatologist to have been selected as a “Best Doctor for Women” by Minnesota Monthly magazine since the inception of the survey. Dr. Crutchfi eld has also been selected as one of the “Best Doctors in America,” an honor awarded to only 4% of all practicing physicians. Dr. Crutchfi eld is the co-author of a children’s book on sun protection and dermatology textbook. He is a member of the AOA National Medical Honor Society, an expert consultant for WebMD and CNN, and a recipient of the Karis Humanitarian Award from the Mayo Clinic School of Medicine.
18 Right on Cue Authentic regional barbecue flavors. by bruce aidells
30 Cool Comforts Creative ice cream treats beat the heat. by elinor kliVans
36 Vegetable Redux delectable patties, croquettes, and fritters. by robin asbell
42 A Bit of Honey Tasting and cooking with bees’ liquid gold. by marie simmons
52 Weeknight Wonders Ellie Krieger’s fast and nutritious recipes.
by tara Q. thomas
4 Contributors
5 Bites Smoothies’ high-impact nutrients. reciPe by chris Fung
6 Kitchen SkillsTricks of the trade for grilling vegetables. by Jason ross
17 IngredientQuinoa, the gluten-free super grain.by amie ValPone
56 PairingsRiesling’s fruitful partnerships.by mary subialka
Departments
summer 2014 real food 3
Our CoverPopover Pancake with Honey Spiced Apples (page 44). This spread: Mocha Shortbread Ice Cream Sandwiches (page 31). Photographs by Terry Brennan
PUBLISHER Jamie Flaws
EdIToR Joel schettler ART dIRECToR Jamie Johnson dIRECToR of PRodUCTIon SERvICES Jonathon reynolds
SEnIoR EdIToR mary subialka SEnIoR gRAPHIC dESIgnER mandy Finders PRodUCTIon PRojECT MAnAgER cindy marking
ACCoUnT ExECUTIvES glori rantz And kelly wiebe
Volume 10, number 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, Mn 55402, 612.371.5800, fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. no part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from
the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.
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38
28
p.31
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contributors
Terry Brennanis an award-winning pho-tographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”
Lara Miklasevicsbegan her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experi-ence as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.
Tara Q. Thomasgave up cooking profession-ally to become a culinary-obsessed writer. She’s been a senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the past decade and writes regularly for the Denver Post, Culture, Gas-tronomica, and Gourmet.com. The Brooklyn, New York–based mom of two is also author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics.
Jason Rossis a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consul-tant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.
Amie Valponeis the editor-in-chief of TheHealthyApple.com; she is a Manhattan-based personal chef, culinary nutri-tionist, professional recipe developer, food photogra-pher and writer specializing in simple gluten-free and dairy-free ‘clean’ recipes for the home cook. Amie’s work appears on Martha Stewart, Fox News Health, WebMD, The Huffington Post, The Food Network, Glamour magazine, Clean Eating magazine, SHAPE magazine, Prevention maga-zine, PBS, and many others.
Elinor Klivansis a former dessert chef whose work has appeared in national newspapers and magazines, including Bon Appétit, Eating Well, and Fine Cooking. These days, she travels around the country teaching and has also written a great number of dessert cookbooks. Some of her favorites are The Essential Chocolate Chip Cookbook, Cupcakes!, and Big Fat Cookies. Her latest book is Slice & Bake Cookies: Fast Recipes from your Refrigerator or Freezer.
Marie Simmonshas created recipes and writ-ten food articles for dozens of magazines, including Food & Wine, Cooking Light, and Eating Well. For more than 15 years, she wrote a monthly column for Bon Appétit, as well as a weekly column for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. She is the author of more than 20 cook-books, including Fig Heaven, The Amazing World of Rice, Things Cooks Love, and her latest, Taste of Honey. She lives in Eugene, Oregon, where she is surrounded by neighbors who just happen to keep bees. Photograph by Luca Travoto.
Bruce Aidellsfounded Aidells Sausage Company in California in 1983. He left the company in 2002 to pursue food writ-ing. A regular contributor to Bon Appétit and Fine Cooking, he has also shared his expertise in several cookbooks, including The Complete Meat Cookbook and his latest, The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today’s Meat. He is a host of Good Cookin’ with Bruce Aidells on livewellnetwork.com and invites you to join him there and on his Good Cookin’ page on Facebook.
Breakfast Burner MAKES 1 SMOOTHIE
Superfood blueberries to stimulate your brain combine with a smooth selection of ingredients to settle your digestion and give you energy for the rest of the morning. 3 oranges, halved 2 pieces (about 1-inch cubes) peeled pineapple ½ banana ½ cup low-fat yogurt, frozen overnight, or low-fat yogurt plus 4 ice cubes ¼ cup blueberries ½ mango, peeled and pitted
1. Squeeze the juice from the oranges. Pour the juice into a blender or food processor, add all the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth and creamy. Serve immediately.
Food is fuel. And fresh juice is packed with all of the most important elements: vitamins, nutrients, and minerals that are
vital for all kinds of chemical reactions that take place in our bodies every day. And because the vitamins and minerals have already been released from the fi brous membranes of the fruit or vegetable, they are ready for your body to absorb without using more time and energy to digest them.
Made with the whole fruit, smoothies also provide plenty of fi ber and often include yogurt for a creamy texture and a dose of protein. (For a dairy-free option, try substituting soy yogurt.)
The following recipe from Juice Boost! by Chris Fung, managing director of Crussh, the UK’s popular juice, smoothie, and healthy eating company, can help you get the day off to a good start—or mix up a burst of nutrition anytime.
Smoothies provide a burst of high-impact nutrients to help you through the day.
summer 2014 real food 5
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kitchen skills
Culinary Instructor Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota
BY JASON ROSS
Grilling Vegetables
Tips for Grilling Vegetables Make it quick. Most vegetables wither under the intense conditions of the grill if left too long. Cook vegetables on a hot grill and after a minute or so, when starting to brown, flip to cook the other side. After that, get them off the grill.
Unlike meats, where certain internal temperatures are needed to kill bacteria, a little crunch in vegetables is not only safe but adds freshness and flavor. Drain excess oil or marinades before placing vegetables on the grill to prevent flareups.
Cut with care. It’s important to cut vegetables into shapes and sizes that maximize con-tact with the grill, both to get the most char and flavor, and to minimize the chances of small pieces falling through the grates.
Whenever possible, cut vegetables into planks running the length of the vegetable. Eggplant, summer squash, and zucchini all easily slice into planks. If a smaller cut is needed, wait until after the veggies are cooked to cut them into more manageable sizes.
For vegetables that tend to fall apart on the grill, such as onions, fennel, or romaine hearts, leave the root in place. It holds these vegetables together as they cook and can be trimmed and removed after cooking, if desired.
For smaller vegetables, such as mushrooms or cherry tomatoes, use a skewer. Bamboo skewers work well but should be soaked in water before use, as they tend to burn or even catch fire. Soak them for at least 5 minutes or as long as 24 hours. Also, resist the urge to squeeze vegetables too tightly on skewers; they won’t cook properly and will steam instead of brown.
Use marinades before and after. When you use a marinade to flavor meats, it becomes contaminated as it contacts the raw meat. Not so with vegetables. They can go right back into the same bowl with the marinade after they come off the grill. An extra dip in the marinade punches up flavor and utilizes what might otherwise have been discarded.
Meaty. Some vegetables take on meaty flavors when fired up on the grill. Portobello mushrooms and cauliflower cut into “steaks” with the root left in place both soak up smoke and flavor and come out meaty and rich. Serve portobellos on buns with melted cheese instead of burgers and try grilled cauliflower with dipping sauce or even a fried egg as garnish.
Nothing says “summer” quite like fi ring up the grill at the start of the season: scrap-ing it clean, searching the garage for half-empty bags of charcoal left over from last year, and breaking out the tongs. Much of the time, burgers, ribs, chicken, and fi sh
take center stage, with vegetables often taking a backseat. Less used though they are, veggies work perfectly on the grill. They’re quick, tasty, and healthy. Try grilled vegetables on salads and sandwiches, as sides, or even as the main course.
Most of the techniques used for grilling meats apply to vegetables. You’ll need a hot, clean grill and a grill spatula or tongs for handling hot foods. Just like with meats, crisp grill marks bring big fl avor. But not all veggies are created equal. Read on for tips and tricks of the trade for grilling vegetables.
6 real food summer 2014
summer 2014 real food 7
Grilled Summer SquaSh Panzanella (reciPe PaGe 8)
kitchen skills
Grilled Summer Squash Panzanella maKeS 6 SerVinGS
1 medium zucchini squash 1 medium yellow squash ½ cup herb Basil marinade (see recipe below) ½ loaf crusty bread, such as ciabatta or baguette 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 pound ripe tomatoes, diced ½ sliced red onion 1 sliced rib celery ½ teaspoon red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon lemon juice ½ cup fresh basil leaves 4 cups lettuce greens, such as arugula, mache,
or baby kale salt and pepper
1. Heat grill and clean grates with grill brush. 2. Slice squash into ½-inch planks from root to stem. In a mixing bowl, coat with marinade, reserving any extra. Season with salt and pepper.3. Slice bread into ½-inch-thick slices and brush with 1½ tablespoons oil. Season with salt and pepper.4. Place squash and bread on grill with cover open and cook on both sides, roughly 3 minutes per side or until nicely browned. 5. Toss squash back in bowl, coating with any remaining marinade. Let cool slightly, slice into bite-size pieces, and set aside in bowl. Cut bread into bite-size pieces and set aside.6. In a bowl, combine tomatoes, onion, celery, remaining oil, vinegar, lemon juice, and a pinch each salt and pepper. Tear basil into rough pieces and add to salad (tearing helps bring out oils and a green, fresh perfume). Add bread and mix well. 7. Make a bed of lettuce greens, top with squash, and finish with panzanella mix. Squash can be grilled and marinated the day before and stored in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Herb Basil MarinademaKeS 6 SerVinGS
1. In a bowl large enough for all ingredients, season shallots with salt and pepper. 2. Add vinegar and lemon juice. Stir in oil and herbs.3. Adjust seasoning and acidity, adding salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Marinade is best used within 48 hours; the basil turns black over time and the shallots and parsley start to smell grassy and strong. ■
HERB BASIL MARINADE ONLY:Per SerVinG: calOrieS 82 (80 from fat); FaT 9g (sat. 1g); chOl 0mg; SOdium 1mg; carB 0g; FiBer 0g; PrOTein 0g
NU
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N
½ tablespoon minced shallot 2 tablespoons red wine
vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup minced basil 1 tablespoon minced parsley salt and pepper
8 real food summer 2014
Lunds and Byerly’s
LundsandByerlys.com real food 9
We deeply appreciate what a grocery store means to a community. Each time we
have the distinct pleasure of opening a new store we know it’s about much more than selling groceries—although we’re passionate about that, too! For us it’s also an opportunity to become an integral part of the community we serve.
In May we’re opening the doors to our newest full-service Lunds in downtown St. Paul, and we can’t wait to begin building relationships with nearby residents and businesses.
There has been a renewed vitality taking place in downtown St. Paul with many new housing developments opening or currently under construc-tion. A new light rail line connecting downtown Minneapolis and St. Paul, with a transit station just a block from our new Lunds, is scheduled to begin in June and a new stadium for the St. Paul Saints is expected to open next year.
One thing downtown St. Paul has lacked, until now, is a full-service grocery store. Our team of nearly 80 employees is eager to provide the community with this much-needed amenity. And we’ll do it, of course, through our commitment to offering extraordinary food, exceptional service, and passionate expertise.
Like our urban stores in the down-town Minneapolis area, our new Lunds in downtown St. Paul will have a bit smaller footpr int compared to our
more tradition-al stores, but I assure you we’ve maximized the space to meet you r g roce r y needs in every way imaginable.
If you’re look-ing for a quick and delicious meal for lunch or dinner we’ll have you covered through an expanded offering of prepared foods, including Big Bowl Chinese Express and Hissho Sushi. If you’d prefer to prepare a meal at home or want to stock up on groceries for the week, we’ll meet your needs there, too, with more than 25,000 items to choose from. Or have your groceries delivered right to your home or office by shopping online at LundsandByerlys.com/ShopOnline.
To learn more about everything our newest Lunds will offer, see the story on pages 12-13.
For those of you who live or work in and around downtown St. Paul, we look forward to becoming your new neighbor.
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Lunds and Byerly’s
10 real food summer 2014
Lunds and Byerly’sproduce
URBAN ORGANICSURBAN ORGANICS
Local, sustainable
farming
Lunds and Byerly’s
LundsandByerlys.com real food 11
produce
How influential is the nightly news? Just ask Kristen and Dave Haider. A news story that aired a little more
than three years ago set them on a journey that changed their lives and is helping trans-form their community.
“It was just a regular weeknight,” Kristen recalls. “Dave was home from work, and we had the TV on. A reporter started talking about indoor farms in Milwaukee. Indoor farms? I’m from Wisconsin, and it caught my ear. The more I listened, the more intrigued I got. When it was over, I said to Dave, ‘We could do that.’”
The news profiled two organizations, Sweet Water Organics and Growing Power, which produce healthy food right in the heart of the city. They’re teaching people new skills, creating jobs, and helping neigh-borhoods get stronger.
Fast forward to the present. Healthy food. Sustainable farming. Neighborhood revitalization. It all comes together on the East Side of St. Paul in the historic Hamm’s Brewery, which sat vacant for two decades. Here, the Haiders’ early dream has grown into a fully operational farm called Urban Organics. At peak production, it will be capable of producing 720,000 pounds of organic produce and 150,000 pounds of tilapia each year.
“I still pinch myself every day,” Dave states. “To have come so far in such a short period of time at this scale amazes me. We’re grateful for the support of the many people and organizations we’ve met along the way, and that includes the city of St. Paul, which brought up the idea of operating in the Hamm’s Brewery. We delivered our first veggies exclusively to Lunds and Byerly’s in February, and already we’re expanding production.”
Aquaponics is the combination of aqua-culture (fish farming) and hydroponics (growing plants in water instead of dirt). The fish provide nutrients for the plants, and the
plants help keep the water clean for the fish. It’s an ancient practice made more efficient and productive with modern equipment.
Kristen guided Urban Organics through the process of becoming organic certified. “Like any farm, we document our farming techniques, impact on the environment, pest control procedures, and more,” she says. “But our farm is different, and when we first started the certification process we couldn’t even fill out the usual forms. They had to be updated to include aquaponics. And that’s good. Now other farms down the road will be able to follow a more streamlined process for this unique kind of farming practice.”
Dave heads up daily operations and manages ongoing construction as the farm expands to the upper floors of the facil-ity. “My great-grandfather worked at the
Hamm’s brewery for more than 40 years, and it makes me proud to help bring this place back to life,” he notes. “I’m here about 10 hours a day and start each morning on the fish side—cleaning, maintenance, making sure the fish are healthy, checking the filters and am also staff biologist.”
Partnering with Kristen and Dave is Pentair, a global leader in water, fluid, and thermal management, which provided equipment and expertise to create the closed-loop aquaponics system.
All Lunds and Byerly’s offer a variety of herbs, red and green kale, and red and green Swiss chard from Urban Organics. By this summer, fresh local tilapia fillets are expected to be available. ■
BY BEA JAMES, Senior Manager of Organic, Natural, and Health and Wellness
Healthy food, sustainable farming, and neighborhood revitalization come together in St. Paul’s historic Hamm’s B rewery building.
plants help keep the water clean for the Kristen and Dave Haider, co-founders of Urban Organics.
Urban Organics is located inside the historic
Hamm's Brewery building in St. Paul.
Lunds and Byerly’s
12 real food summer 2014
news
Just a couple of years ago we opened the first full-service grocery store in downtown Minneapolis and now
we’re headed across the river to do the same in downtown St. Paul. Opening May 15, Lunds Penfield will be downtown St. Paul’s first full-service grocery store!
Our new store has everything you’ve come to expect from us: extraordinary food, exceptional service, and passionate expertise.
The 27,000 square-foot store features pre-mium choice beef, USDA-certified organic produce, an olive and antipasti bar, a full-service deli, and more. Additional amenities include Caribou Coffee, Bachman’s floral, and St. Croix Cleaners dry cleaning.
Whether you’re shopping for the week or making a quick stop on your way home, Lunds Penfield has everything you need. To meet your busy, on-the-go lifestyle, we have
a lot of perfect options for lunch and dinner with everything from chef-crafted grab-and-go foods and an incredible salad bar to Hissho Sushi and Big Bowl Chinese Express.
This new store is part of The Penfield Apartments, a block-long building at Rob-ert and 10th streets that stands six stories tall with 254 apartments. Located on the first level, Lunds Penfield is easily accessible by foot (just a few blocks from the business
BY MIKE MACRAE, General Manager, Lunds Penfield
The first full-service grocery store in downtown St. Paul opens May 15.
Going Downtown… Again!
LundsandByerlys.com real food 13
family tradition since 1939MinnesotaYour
Lunds and Byerly’snews
district), by car (free parking ramp), or by taking the Green Line of the Central Cor-ridor (light rail station one block from our store). The Green Line is scheduled to open June 14, 2014.
The city of St. Paul and the exact site where our store is located have some added significance for me. For those who don’t know the history of this site, it was formerly a police station. My father-in-law served for
nearly 30 years as a St. Paul police officer, and for many of those years he reported for duty each day to this location. I now have the pleasure of doing the same as the general manager of Lunds Penfield.
I grew up on the East Side of St. Paul and it’s great being part of this vibrant city again. When you’re working in your own community, it generates an added level of excitement—you can’t help but connect
even more with your customers. I’m thrilled to be back in my hometown!
One of the most rewarding things you can do as a company is bring your brand to a new community to serve the people of that area and fulfill their needs. We have assembled an amazing team here and we’re proud to be part of downtown St. Paul. We look forward to welcoming you to Lunds Penfield. See you soon! ■
Going Downtown…
MAY 15, 2014115 East 10th Street, St. Paul, MN 55101
HOURS: 6 a.m. – midnightPHONE: 651-999-1600
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Opening:
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14 real food summer 2014
SARGENTO CHEESE TASTINGSSargento Tastings are just right for any occasion—or no occasion at all. These new smaller-sized, specialty cheeses are the ideal snack. And with familiar classics from aged Wisconsin cheddar to unique flavors such as bruschetta jack, you’re sure to find a cheese to please in our refrigerated dairy aisle.
Tip: Visit Sargento.com/tastings for terrific pairing suggestions for each of the eight tastings varieties.
what’s in store
CITY SLICKERS BBQ SAUCES AND SPICES Based right here in Minneapolis, City Slickers BBQ combines the best of Kansas City, Memphis, and Carolina styles to create their own unique city-style sauces and spices. After their founder, Nate, won a local BBQ competition, he began developing recipes for future competitions. He wants to show people good BBQ can come from the Twin Cities. And boy does it ever!
Did you know? Pit master Nate and his team compete in BBQ competitions across the Midwest, bringing their local taste up against southern style—and winning!
ILLY ISSIMO COFFEESNo more waiting for your morning cup of coffee—Illy Issimo did the work for you. Their premium coffee drinks are made with 100 percent Arabica coffee blends for an intense Italian espresso experience with no artificial flavors, colors, or preservatives. Flavors: cappuccino, latte macchiato, and mochaccino.
Tip: Make a mochaccino frappe: Mix 4 ounces of Illy Issimo mochaccino and ice cubes in a blender. Blend on low until frothy. Mix 6 tablespoons of milk with your desired amount of chocolate sauce in a glass, then add Illy Issimo mix.
SARGENTO CHEESE TASTINGS
the ideal snack. And with familiar classics from aged Wisconsin
Visit Sargento.com/tastings for terrific pairing suggestions
Lunds and Byerly’s
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what’s in store
WILLIAM HILL ESTATE WINESWilliam Hill Estate’s 2012 North Coast Chardonnay offers ripe aromas and flavors of pear and stone fruit, framed by notes of toasted oak and caramel. It all leads to a round, lingering finish and creamy taste.
The 2012 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon opens with dark fruit, fresh plum, and blackberry jam flavors. Hints of caramel mingle with brown spice and toasted oak for a decadent finish.
Did you know? William Hill Estate Winery is at the southern end of the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley and has been producing award-winning wines for nearly 40 years.
BELVOIR FRUIT FARMS LEMONADESThese are no ordinary lemonades. Belvoir Fruit Farms infuses, presses, and cooks fresh elderflowers, fruits, and spices, which are then blended with local spring water at the enchanting Belvoir Castle in Lincolnshire, England. This technique, perfected over time, creates a lovely drink that is light, sweet, and truly fresh.
Tip: These lemonades are the perfect drink on a warm summer afternoon. Enjoy over ice or pair with a tray of assorted chilled meats and cheeses for a get-together with friends and family.
BELVOIR FRUIT FARMS LEMONADESThese are no ordinary lemonades. Belvoir Fruit Farms infuses, presses, and cooks fresh elderflowers,
Castle in Lincolnshire, England. This technique, perfected over time, creates a lovely drink that is light, sweet, and truly fresh.
THE DAILY CRAVE VEGGIE CHIPS AND STICKS News flash: Eating wholesome snacks is all the rage. The Daily Crave veggie chips and sticks make the ultimate snack because they are 100 percent natural, vegan, and delicious. They have that satisfying crunch you crave in a snack with no artificial ingredients or flavors.
Did you know? These tasty chips and sticks contain no GMOs or hydrogenated fats.
available at
*Visit LundsandByerlys.com/grill for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.
available at
enter to win this grill *text grill to 55155
experience thethrillof the grill
VCS324SSP
($1,289 value)
EDINA ST. PAUL MINNEAPOLIS MAPLE GROVE WOODBURY APPLE VALLEY ROCHESTER COON RAPIDS
FAMILY OWNED SINCE 1954
CELEBRATING 60 YEARS
Legacy
17 real food spring 2014
ingredient
This little powerhouse of a grain packs a protein punch. Quinoa (pronounced keen-wah) has grown so popular lately, the United Nations declared 2013 “The International Year of Quinoa.”
We love quinoa for its high protein content, anti-infl ammatory properties, fi ber, and ease of cooking. Even though quinoa is a seed, treat it like a whole grain, like rice or barley. First, rinse the quinoa until the water is clear to remove the naturally occurring, insect-repelling saponins from the seed so there’s no slight bitter-ness. Using two parts liquid to one part quinoa, boil for about 15 minutes and fl uff. You’ll see white curly-cue tails—the outer germ of the seed—appear when it’s done. The nutty, light fl avor works well in soups, pilafs, and salads, but also as a breakfast cereal and snack. You can even grind the seeds into fl our for gluten-free baking.
Considered an ancient grain, quinoa was a staple in the Andes region of South America for thousands of years. It packs all nine essential amino acids, making it a complete protein. Find quinoa in the baking or ethnic food sections, sometimes near couscous. Try white, red, or tri-colored quinoa for whatever pleases your eye.
SIMPLE, BRIGHT SIDE DISH: In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups vegetable stock and 1 cup quinoa to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon fresh orange zest, 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice, ¼ cup sunfl ower seeds, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork, remove from heat, and add in 2 tablespoons fi nely chopped fresh parsley. This serves four people.
DO DESSERT FOR BREAKFAST: Make a cinnamon carrot cake cereal with quinoa in a medium saucepan. Combine 1 cup water, ¼ cup almond milk, and ½ cup quinoa. Bring it to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Add in ¼ cup grated carrots, 2 tablespoons golden raisins, ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract. Cover and cook for another 6 minutes. Remove from heat and add 2 tablespoons slivered almonds and 1 tablespoon honey. This makes enough for you and one other lucky person.
CRUNCHY AND SWEET GRANOLA SNACK: Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Place ¼ cup quinoa in a large plastic bag and seal it closed. Using a rolling pin, crack the seeds of the quinoa by rolling the pin over the bag fi ve times. Transfer the cracked quinoa into a large bowl. Add 2 cups dry oats, ½ cup roughly chopped walnuts, ¼ cup pistachios, and 3 tablespoons coconut fl akes. In a separate medium bowl, combine ¼ cup maple syrup, 2 teaspoons honey, ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon, and ¾ teaspoon vanilla extract. Mix well to combine then pour over the quinoa mixture and mix it all until quinoa is coated. Transfer mixture to the prepared baking sheet and spread it into a single layer. Bake 15 minutes, stir, and then bake another 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Add ¹⁄³ cup dried cranberries,�¹⁄³ cup golden raisins, and a pinch of sea salt. Set aside to cool before serving. You’ll have six super-satisfying snacks. ■
Quinoa
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A complete protein, quinoa is a gluten-free nutritional super grain.
summer 2014 real food 17
BY AMIE VALPONE
18 real food summer 2014
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNANFOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
summer 2014 real food 19
Get authentic regional barbecue flavors from around the country on your backyard grill.
Right Right on Right
Cue BY BRUCE AIDELLS
20 real food summer 2014
Grilled Smoked Pork Chops with South Carolina Mustardy Barbecue Sauce Makes 4 servings
Smoked pork chops are ideal for a quick, painless grilled dinner. They come fully cooked, and because they are cured with a brine, they come out nice and juicy. They only need to be grilled long enough to heat through and add a little flavor. If you wish, you can brush a little barbecue sauce over the chops and grill them a minute or so more on each side to give them a glaze and just spoon over a little sauce before serving. You can make the mustard sauce ahead and store covered in the refrigerator up to two weeks. It is also great with steak, lamb chops, and chicken. 4 1- to 1¼-inch-thick bone-in smoked pork chops
(about 2½ pounds)
Barbecue Mustard sauce 2 tablespoons peanut oil 2 cups finely chopped onion ¼ cup bourbon ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon low-sulfur molasses ¼ cup Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce salt pepper
1. For the mustard sauce: Heat oil in a small saucepan over medi-um heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, 10 minutes, until soft and beginning to color. Remove from heat and pour in bourbon. Return to heat and cook 1 minute (bourbon may flame; if so, wait for flame to subside). Whisk in remaining ingredients, reduce heat, and whisk until just syrupy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.2. Set up a grill to produce medium-high heat. Set chops over heat and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Move if they begin to flame, returning once flare-up subsides. Flip and grill other side 2 to 3 minutes. 3. While chops are grilling, bring mustard sauce to a simmer. Brush chops with sauce and grill 1 minute. Brush other side, flip, and grill 1 minute. Check internal temperature, which should reach 120°F. If needed, cover grill and cook 1 minute. Place chops on a platter. Rest meat 5 minutes. Serve sauce on the side, letting guests add more as desired.
• These chops pair nicely with a nice hoppy lager, such as a German-style beer or Samuel Adams Boston Lager.
• Serve this dish with potato salad or pan-fried or roasted potatoes. Warm biscuits are an excellent addition.
We often use the word “barbecue” to
refer to food cooked outdoors over wood,
charcoal, or gas. So we might invite a few
friends over for a nice little “barbecue.”
But more often than not, what we really
mean is food grilled on an apparatus we
call a barbecue. True barbecue refers to
meat or poultry cooked long and slow in
a smoke-dense pit or box at relatively low
heat (around 225°F). Beef brisket and
pork shoulder, for example, can cook for
12 hours or more.
Various regions of the country have
unique styles of barbecue based on the
cut of meat (such as Texas beef brisket,
Memphis pork ribs, and North Carolina
pulled pork shoulder); and the style of
accompanying sauces (such as South
Carolina mustard-based, Kansas City
tomato- and molasses-based, and North
Carolina vinegar-based).
Unlike true barbecue, the recipes that
follow are based on grilling. Grilling involves
either direct-heat grilling, where the meat
is placed over the fire, or indirect grilling
(also called grill-roasting), where meat is
kept away from the fire in a closed grill.
This turns the grill into a roasting oven,
which is ideal for larger pieces of meat or
poultry that require more gentle heat and
longer cooking times. If cooked over direct
heat, these items would burn before they
are fully cooked. Often food that is cooked
indirectly can be seared first over direct
heat, moved to an unlit part of the grill to
cook indirectly, and finally coated with a
sauce or glaze and finished over direct heat.
This is one of my favorite methods and
thus is featured in several of these recipes.
Barbecue vs. Grilling
summer 2014 real food 21
grilleD sMokeD Pork ChoPs With south Carolina MustarDy BarBeCue sauCe
22 real food summer 2014
vietnaMese MarinateD anD CaraMel glazeD BaCk riBs anD ColeslaW
summer 2014 real food 23
Vietnamese Marinated and Caramel Glazed Back Ribs Makes 4 servings
In northern California, we have a sizable Vietnamese population that has been here for 40 years. One of my favorite preparations for ribs is cooked with a sweet and salty caramel glaze, often called sticky ribs. Yes, they are messy, so supply lots of napkins or moist towels. But they’re worth the mess. This recipe uses a marinade that not only flavors the ribs but also serves as a base for the caramel glaze. (Plan ahead: Overnight prep/marinating is recommended.)
1. For the marinade: In a medium bowl, stir together ingredients until sugar is dissolved. 2. Cut each slab of ribs in half. Place in a large, heavy zipper-lock plastic bag. Pour over marinade. Seal bag, shake, and turn until ribs are well-coated. Place bag in a bowl in case it leaks and refrigerate overnight, up to 30 hours. Turn and shake bag occasionally.3. Remove ribs from marinade, shaking off any excess. Pour marinade into a small bowl or measuring cup and set aside.4. Set up a grill for indirect cooking. For charcoal, place coals on half of a covered grill and heat until medium-high heat. For gas, preheat grill by turning all burners on high heat; when hot, turn off middle section.5. Place ribs over unlit part of grill. Cover and maintain a temperature of 300°F to 350°F. Grill 1 to 1½ hours, until meat begins to pull away from bone. 6. For the glaze: In a small saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook 5 minutes, until soft. Pour in marinade. Bring to a boil and reduce until syrupy. Set aside. 7. Brush glaze over ribs, place directly over a medium-hot fire, and grill 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbly and just beginning to brown. Brush other side with glaze, flip, and grill 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbly and beginning to color. Remove from grill, cover loosely with foil, and let rest 10 minutes. 8. Slice in between ribs to separate. Place on a platter and brush generously with glaze. Garnish with cilantro, mint, and basil.
• Depending on the size of your grill, use a vertical rib rack.• Serve these ribs with Japanese or Thai beer or a sweet Gewürztraminer.• For a side dish, serve coleslaw (recipe at right) and a noodle salad or
steamed jasmine rice.
Coleslaw Makes 4 to 6 servings
This coleslaw is a nice accompanie-ment with the recipes featured in this article. For best results, prepare several hours or a day ahead. 4 cups shredded green cabbage 2 cups shredded red cabbage 2 thinly sliced green onions ½ cup thinly sliced red onion 1 cup shredded carrots salt freshly ground black pepper
Dressing 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 cup mayonnaise ¼ cup sour cream or
greek yogurt ¼ cup light or dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 teaspoons Worcestershire
sauce ½ teaspoon tabasco
1. Place vegetables in a large bowl.2. For the dressing: Whisk together ingredients in a bowl or blend in a food processor. 3. Toss vegetables with dressing and add salt and pepper to taste. Store covered in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
2 slabs (3 to 4 pounds total) pork back ribs (also called baby back ribs)
vietnamese Marinade 1 cup chopped cilantro ¹⁄³ cup finely chopped
green onion 1 tablespoon minced ginger 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons sriracha chili
sauce (optional) 2 tablespoons fish sauce ¹⁄³ cup fresh lime juice
garnish ½ cup chopped cilantro ¼ cup chopped mint ¼ cup chopped basil
24 real food summer 2014
Santa Maria–Style Tri-tip Makes 4 servings
Sometimes a barbecue style originates in a very small geographic region. Such is the case with tri-tip from Santa Maria, California. This small central coast town is famous for this specific cut of beef. The tasty, triangular-shaped roast comes from the bottom sirloin, weighs about 2 pounds, and is well-marbled and ideal for feeding 4 people.
Typical recipes are pretty basic, with the meat coated with a rub of salt, pepper, garlic powder, and onion powder. I prefer to kick up the flavor in two steps. I marinate it overnight in a Mexican-inspired marinade (Santa Maria has a sizable Hispanic population that has influenced the cooking). The next day, I pat the meat dry, coat it with a dry rub, and throw it on the grill. If time does not permit, you can simply coat the meat with the rub and grill, but allow two hours for the spices to work their way into the meat. In Santa Maria, tri-tip is often cooked directly over the coals, but I prefer to sear the meat first and then cook it indirectly to reduce the chance of burning. (Plan ahead: Overnight prep/marinating is recommended.) 1 tri-tip (about 2 to 2½ pounds), fat trimmed to ¼ inch
Marinade ½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice ¼ cup fresh lime juice ¼ cup soy sauce 2 teaspoons dark brown sugar ¼ cup minced white onion or shallots 1 teaspoon tabasco 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped 2 tablespoons ground chilies, such as
ancho, new Mexico, or California 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper ¼ cup olive oil
Dry rub ½ teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground chilies such as
ancho, new Mexico, or California 1 teaspoon dark brown sugar ½ teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. For the marinade: Combine ingredients in a bowl and whisk until salt and sugar dissolve. Using a sharp meat fork or skew-er, puncture meat all over on both sides. Place in a 1-gallon zipper-lock plastic bag. Pour over marinade. Seal bag, shake, and turn so meat is coated. Place bag in a bowl in case it leaks and refrigerate overnight, up to 30 hours. Turn and shake bag occasionally.
2. For the dry rub: 2 hours before grilling, combine ingredients in a small bowl until well-blended. Remove roast from marinade and discard marinade. Pat meat dry with paper towels and coat with rub on all sides. Place on a tray or platter and rest at room temperature at least 1 hour, up to 2 hours. 3. To set up grill for indirect cooking, place coals on half of a covered grill and heat until glowing hot. If using a gas grill, preheat by turning all burners on high heat; when hot, turn off middle section. 4. Keeping spice coating intact, lay meat directly over heat. Sear 2 to 3 minutes on both sides then transfer to unlit area of grill. Cover and grill-roast, checking internal temperature after 15 minutes. When it registers 120°F to 125°F, it will produce a mostly medium-rare roast after resting (thinner areas may be more medium). If you prefer rare meat, as I do, remove roast when internal temperature is 115°F to 120°F. 5. Transfer roast to a cutting board and loosely cover with foil. Let rest at least 5 minutes, up to 15 minutes. Slice across grain into ¼-inch-thick slices and serve.
• For an authentic Santa Maria–style barbecue experience, serve the roast with cooked pinto beans and pico de gallo (salsa made with fresh tomatoes, onion, cilantro, and jalapeño chilies). A bowl of freshly made guacamole never hurts. Add a stack of warm corn tortillas.
• Santa Maria is in the heart of the Santa Barbara wine region, which produces fine Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Petit Syrah. Serve Syrah with this dish as this full-bodied wine stands up well to the assertive flavors of this recipe.
Let it Rest Adapted from The Great Meat Cookbook by Bruce Aidells
It is very important that meat be allowed to rest after being removed from the heat source. Two things happen: Juices are reabsorbed from the surface to the interior, and the carry-over heat causes the internal temperature to rise 5 to 20 degrees.
summer 2014 real food 25
santa Maria–style tri-tiP
26 real food summer 2014
texas Beef riBs With hill Country PeaCh glaze
summer 2014 real food 27
Texas Beef Ribs with Hill Country Peach Glaze Makes 4 servings
I have a good friend who lives in Fredericksburg in the heart of Texas Hill Country. Every Christmas, she sends me a jar of her peach jam. It is one of my most cherished gifts. I try to ration it, but somehow it never lasts more than a few weeks. One year, the remains of a jar got lost in my refrigerator, and I found it in summertime. I decided to turn it into a glaze for another Texas barbecue favorite: beef ribs.
Beef ribs are the back ribs trimmed from the standing rib roast. They are relatively tender, somewhat fatty, and utterly delicious. Although beef brisket is king in Texas, most barbecue joints serve the ever-popular rib bones as well. It is best to cook the ribs over indirect heat so they can cook slowly, render off fat, and become tender and succulent. The glaze is applied at the end to give the ribs a wonderful sweet coating. (Plan ahead: Overnight prep/marinating is recommended.)
4 to 5 pounds beef rib bones (also called prime-rib bone or beef rib back bones), trimmed of external fat
1. For the rub: Combine ingredients and sprinkle generously over ribs. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.2. For the glaze: Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, 5 minutes, until soft. Whisk in remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 2 to 5 minutes, until thick and syrupy. Set aside. Glaze can be made 2 to 3 weeks ahead and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator. Reheat before using. If necessary, add a few drops water or orange juice to thin.3. Set up a grill for indirect cooking. For charcoal, place coals on half of a covered grill and heat until medium-high heat. For gas, preheat grill by turning all burners on high heat; when hot, turn off middle section.4. Keeping spice coating intact, lay ribs directly over heat. Sear 2 to 3 minutes on both sides, taking care not to burn. Transfer to unlit area of grill. Cover and grill roast at medium heat (around 350°F) 45 to 60 minutes, until tender (cut off a taste to test). Remove from grill.5. Adjust grill to medium-high heat. If using charcoal, add more coals if necessary to create a medium-hot fire covering ¾ of grill, leaving an area without coals. Brush meaty side of ribs with glaze and set over fire. Grill 2 to 3 minutes, taking care not to burn. If they begin to flame, transfer to unlit area of grill and wait until flames subside (if using a gas grill, lower heat). 6. When shiny and bubbly with a few black specks, brush bone side of ribs with glaze, flip, and grill 1 to 2 minutes, until shiny and bubbly. Arrange ribs on a platter and brush with glaze. Rest meat 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
• Serve these ribs with a crisp, sweet Riesling from Texas or Germany. They are also good with a malty ale, such as Fat Tire.
• For sides, try my coleslaw (see recipe page 23) and Boston baked beans. • If you can’t find peach jam, apricot works well.
Dry rub 3 tablespoons chili powder 2 teaspoons dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 4 teaspoons kosher salt
Peach glaze 1 tablespoon peanut oil 1 cup finely chopped
white onion ¼ cup soy sauce 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ¾ cup peach jam 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
sauce
Grilling TipsAdapted from The Great Meat Cookbook by Bruce Aidells
• Buy some welder’s gloves; they’re great for handling hot items.
• Invest in restaurant-quality, spring-loaded tongs. I like the Rösle brand. Avoid “Father’s Day” grilling tool sets; they’re too flimsy.
• Build a fire with varying areas of heat intensity, moving the meat if flare-ups occur.
• If the meat is cooking too fast, move it to an area with less-intense heat. Turning and moving meat is what grilling is all about; burned meat is the hallmark of an amateur griller.
• Never judge doneness by color. Instead, deter-mine the internal tem-perature with an accurate meat thermometer. Steaks thinner than ½ inch thick are too thin to reliably test with a thermometer, so make a little nick into them with a knife to check doneness.
• Always let your meat rest before serving (see page 24).
28 real food summer 2014
PORK CHOPS:Per serving: Calories 399 (184 from fat); fat 21g ( sa t . 6g ) ; Chol 84mg; soDiuM 2513mg; CarB 15g; fiBer 2g; Protein 34g
BARBECUED CHICKEN:Per serving: Calories 648 (218 from fat); fat 24g ( sa t . 6g ) ; Chol 146mg; soDiuM 2472mg; CarB 55g; fiBer 4g; Protein 54gN
UT
RIT
ION
Kansas City–Inspired Barbecued Chicken Makes 4 servings, With leftovers
When most of us think of barbecue sauce, the Kansas City version comes to mind. Many store-bought varieties were originally inspired by recipes from Kansas City (think KC Masterpiece). These tomato-based sauces are sweet and usually contain ingredients such as molasses. Often they are smoky from the addition of liquid smoke. This pungent-style sauce is not only good on chicken but is wonderful on ribs, smoked sausage, and brisket. (Plan ahead: Overnight prep/marinating is recommended.) kansas City Barbecue sauce 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil, or bacon fat 1½ cups finely chopped onion ½ cup chopped red bell pepper 2 tablespoons minced garlic ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon dried sage 3 tablespoons sweet hungarian paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons dry mustard powder ½ cups yellow mustard 2 cups ketchup ¼ cup low-sulfur molasses ½ cup dark brown sugar ¼ cup lemon juice 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon liquid smoke (optional) 3 tablespoons cider vinegar 2 teaspoons tabasco, or more to taste salt freshly ground black pepper
grilled Chicken rub 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chili powder ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons minced garlic 2 teaspoons golden brown sugar 1 teaspoon mustard powder 1 teaspoon fresh sage 1 teaspoon fresh thyme 1 tablespoon kosher salt
4 chicken legs, 4 thighs, and 4 breasts, or any combination thereof (serve 2 to 3 pieces per person)
1. For the barbecue sauce: Heat oil and cook onion in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat covered 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. When soft, stir in red pepper, garlic, salt, and pepper. Stir in remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook uncovered 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Sauce should be slightly thick and syrupy but not too thick to pour; stir in water if too thick. Season to taste with Tabasco, salt, and pepper. Sauce can be made up to 1 week ahead and stored in a covered container in refrigerator. 2. For the rub: Combine all ingredients in a small bowl until well-mixed. Rub a generous layer over chicken. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.3. Heat one side of a gas or charcoal grill to produce a medium-hot fire. Scatter chicken, skin side down, over heat. Cover grill and sear 1 to 3 minutes, until nicely browned. Turn and cook other side 1 to 3 minutes, until beginning to brown. If grill flares up, immediately move chicken to unlit part of grill to prevent burning. 4. When chicken is nicely seared, space over unlit side of grill. Cover and cook 30 to 40 minutes, until area near bone is no longer red. Breasts will take less time than legs. Generously brush skin side with sauce and place, skin side down, over fire 2 to 3 minutes to just caramelize sauce, taking care not to burn. Arrange chicken on a platter and serve with warm barbecue sauce on the side. ■
• Serve this recipe with a lager beer or wheat beer with a squeeze of lemon. If using liquid smoke, serve with a dark beer, such as a stout or porter.
• Excellent sides include a mayonnaise-based potato salad, coleslaw (see recipe page 23), or a green lettuce salad with a blue-cheese dressing. Hot corn bread is always nice.
summer 2014 real food 29
kansas City–insPireD BarBeCueD ChiCken
30 real food summer 2014
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNANFOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
summer 2014 real food 31
Hot weather calls for cool comfort, and nothing satisfies quite like ice cream. These desserts turn store-bought ice
cream into enticing extravaganzas that guarantee the coolest of entertaining. Happily, as exquisite as these concoctions
are, their preparation is elementary and they are way-do-ahead recipes made days or even weeks before serving.
If there are any leftovers, these desserts can rest in the freezer, ready for another day of beating the heat.
Mocha Shortbread Ice Cream Sandwiches Makes 12 sandwiches
Cookies and ice cream—one of the world’s best combinations—come together in this delightful sandwich. The cookies are crisp, dark-chocolate shortbread, the ice cream rich coffee, and melted chocolate completes the creation. Nearly any flavor of ice cream that goes with chocolate can be substituted for the coffee. cookies 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon instant coffee dissolved
1. For the cookies: Sift flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt into a medium bowl and set aside. In a large bowl and using an electric mixer on medium, beat butter and sugar 1 minute, until smoothly blended. Mix in coffee and vanilla. On low, add flour mixture, mixing just to incorporate.2. Form dough into a rectangular log 3 inches long and 4 inches square at ends. Wrap in plastic wrap, rotating dough while patting to form straight edges. Refrigerate at least 3 hours, until firm, or wrap aluminum foil over plastic wrap and freeze up to 1 month. 3. Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. If frozen, thaw dough in refrigerator overnight for easy slicing.
comfortscool
by Elinor Klivans
Creative ice cream treats are a hot topping to summer get-togethers.
32 real food summer 2014
Lemon-Raspberry Meringue Pie Makes 8 servings
We know that on a hot summer day ice cream refreshes, but pair lemon sorbet and a quick lemon sauce with raspberry ice cream, and you have a super refresher. A light, crunchy meringue flavored with lemon peel makes the perfect “crust.”
1. For the meringues: Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 250°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and dust with powdered sugar. Pressing lightly with tip of a dull knife, mark 1 9-inch circle or 7 4-inch circles on paper. 2. In a large bowl and using an electric mixer on low, beat egg whites and cream of tartar 15 seconds, until whites are foamy and cream of tartar is dissolved. On high, beat until mixture looks white, shiny, and smooth and forms soft peaks. On low, slowly beat in sugar, beating an additional 15 seconds after final addition. Mix in vanilla and zest. 3. Dab meringue under each corner of paper. Drop large spoonfuls meringue over marked circle. Using a thin, metal spatula, spread mix-ture over circle. Using spatula or back of a spoon, sweep meringue from center out to build up a raised rim around edge of circle, about 1¼ inches high. This will create 1 large meringue shell or 7 small shells shaped like round nests.4. Bake 1½ hours. Meringue will color slightly and feel crisp to touch. Turn off oven and leave meringue in oven 30 minutes. Remove and cool thoroughly on baking sheet, about 1½ hours. 5. Make the lemon sauce: Place cornstarch and ²⁄³ cup water in a small bowl and stir together until dissolved. Set aside. In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, whisk egg yolks, sugar, and lemon juice to combine. Whisk in cornstarch mixture. Whisking slowly but constantly, cook over low-medium heat 4 minutes, just until mixture is hot and sugar dissolves. Increase heat to medium-high and boil 4 minutes, stirring constantly, just until mixture thickens. Remove pan from heat. 6. Pour through a strainer into a medium bowl. Stir in zest. Press plastic wrap onto sauce and, using a knife tip, poke a few holes in wrap to let steam escape. Refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight until sauce is cold. It will continue to thicken as it cools.7. Place meringue on a cardboard cake circle or flat serving plate. Drizzle ½ cup sauce over bottom of shell or divide among small shells. Using an ice-cream scoop and taking care not to break meringue, fill with ice cream and sorbet. Spoon over remaining sauce. 8. Freeze 30 minutes to firm sauce then cover tightly with plastic wrap. Freeze at least 5 hours, up to 1 week. When ready to serve, scatter raspberries over cake. Using a large, sharp knife, cut into slices.
Meringues powdered sugar for pan 3 large egg whites ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Lemon sauce 3 tablespoons cornstarch 2 large egg yolks 1 cup sugar ¹⁄³ cup fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Strawberry and White-Chocolate Haystack Bombe Makes 8 to 10 servings
An ice-cream bombe is a party waiting in your freezer. This version—with its layers of pink and white ice cream, rounded shape, and coconut and white-chocolate haystack topping—may look complicated, but it’s just a matter of spreading ice-cream flavors and something crunchy in a bowl. haystacks 1½ cups sweetened, shredded coconut 8 ounces white chocolate, chopped 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons
1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Chill a round, deep, 2-quart bowl or metal mold in freezer. 2. For the haystacks: Spread coconut on a baking sheet. Bake 20 minutes, stirring often, until golden.
continued on page 34
4. Using a large, sharp knife, cut log into 12 ¼-inch-thick slices. Place 1 inch apart on bak-ing sheet. Bake 15 minutes, until tops feel firm if lightly touched. Cool on baking sheet 5 minutes before using a wide, metal spatula to transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.5. To fill cookies, either leave whole or cut them diagonally to form 2 triangles. Working quickly, use a small, metal spatula to spread smooth side of a cookie with a ¾-inch-thick layer ice cream. Smooth edge and press another cookie, smooth side down, gently onto ice cream. Place completed sandwiches on a plate or baking sheet in freezer.6. Place chocolate in a heatproof container or top of a double boiler and place over, but not touching, a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir until smoothly melted. Remove from over water and set aside to cool slightly. 7. Remove sandwiches from freezer and use a small spoon to drizzle generously with chocolate, letting drip down sandwich sides. Return to freezer to firm then individually wrap tightly in plastic wrap and freeze up to 1 week.
summer 2014 real food 33
LeMon-raspberry Meringue pie
34 real food summer 2014
S’more Ice Cream Cake Makes 9 servings
Guaranteed to have everyone asking for “s’more,” a favorite campfire treat becomes an ice cream cake. Chocolate-covered graham crackers fill and top ice cream layers with warm marshmallow cream making a great finish. crust 1½ cups graham-cracker crumbs 1 tablespoon sugar 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for pan ½ cup milk chocolate chips
8 whole graham crackers, broken in half 1 quart chocolate ice cream, softened 1 quart vanilla ice cream, softened 1 7-ounce jar marshmallow cream
1. For the crust: Position a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 325°F. Line a 9-inch square pan with two pieces parchment paper, letting ends hang over pan edges. Butter bottom of paper.2. In a large bowl, stir together graham-cracker crumbs and sugar. Mix in butter to evenly moisten crumbs. Mix in chocolate chips. Press crust into pan. Bake 8 minutes and set aside to cool thoroughly.3. For the coating: Place chocolate and oil in a heatproof container or top of a double boiler and place over, but not touching, a saucepan of barely simmering water. Stir until smoothly melted. Remove from water and set aside to cool slightly.4. To coat graham crackers, place 16 halves on a wire rack. Using a metal spatula, coat each with a heaping tablespoon coating. Let sit until firm, or refrigerate 20 minutes to firm quickly. There will probably be leftover coating for another use (it’s also good on ice cream as a sauce).5. To assemble cake, break half of chocolate-coated crackers into irregular pieces. Cut remaining crackers diagonally into triangles. Set aside. Using an ice-cream spade, spread chocolate ice cream over crust. Sprinkle bro-ken crackers over ice cream. Spread over vanilla ice cream, smoothing top. Press cracker triangles, placing a corner side down, over top. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze at least 5 hours, up to 2 weeks. 6. When ready to serve, heat marshmallow cream and 2 tablespoons warm water in a medium saucepan over low heat until smoothly melted. Pour into a medium pitcher. Using parchment-paper ends, lift cake out of pan. Slide onto a serving plate and cut into squares. Pass sauce to pour over cake.
»Softening All of these recipes call for softened ice cream. To soften, simply place in refrigerator for 20 minutes.
3. Place chocolate and oil in a heatproof bowl or top of a double boiler and place over, but not touching, a saucepan of barely simmer-ing water. Cook, stirring constantly, about 5 minutes, until smoothly melted.4. Remove from over water and stir in coco-nut. Spread half of mixture over a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let sit until firm, or refrigerate for faster cooling. Place remaining chocolate over hot water to keep melted.5. To assemble bombe, line chilled bowl with 2 pieces plastic wrap or parchment paper, let-ting ends overhang edge. Using an ice-cream spade, spread inside of bowl with 1½ quarts strawberry ice cream. Drizzle haystack mix-ture over ice cream. Fill center cavity with vanilla ice cream. Smooth top, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and freeze to firm at least 5 hours, up to 1 week.6. Seal firm haystack mixture in a plastic bag and use a flat-bottom meat pounder to break into pieces. Refrigerate or freeze until serving.7. Unmold bombe at least 1 hour before serv-ing. Chill a serving plate 15 minutes. Remove bombe from freezer and discard plastic wrap. Place serving plate on top of bombe and invert onto plate. Dip a dish towel in hot water and wring out. Press towel onto outside of bowl 25 seconds. Repeat. Holding down edges of paper, lift off bowl. Press haystack pieces over outside of bombe. Cover with plastic wrap and return to freezer overnight, or use a large, sharp knife to cut into slices and serve.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNANFOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
Rethink veggies with delectable patties, croquettes, and fritters.
ReduxReduxVegetable
Vegetables are typically relegated to side dishes: a tidy pile of peas nestled
under its pat of butter, familiar and unchanging. If your family is pushing those
tired carrots around their plates, it’s time to up your game.
There is just something about crispy-crusted rounds of vegeta-
bles that add all kinds of appeal. Instead of a pile, they’re solid
and golden-brown with a mixture of smooth, crunchy, and
creamy textures. A complementary dipping sauce adds
even more excitement and may even distract finicky
kids long enough to get them to enjoy their veggies.
All of these recipes are simple to prepare with fresh
or frozen vegetables—or even leftovers. In fact, cro-
quettes likely were invented by a resourceful chef
trying to use up last night’s side dish. Classic French
croquettes are made from cooked vegetables or
meat, bound with a thick white sauce, and coated
with crumbs. Fritters are a part of many cuisines and
often have a little leavening, creating savory, veggie-
packed pancakes. Nuggets made of vegetables and
whole grain serve as two sides in one.
Think of it as a vegetable reformat. Take a good thing
and change the shape, and it suddenly seems new!
BY ROBIN ASBELL
36 real food summer 2014
summer 2014 real food 37
Zucchini-Feta Fritters with Hummus Dip MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Zucchini season might send a bushel of robust green squashes your way. Be prepared with a delicious recipe for feta-studded fritters with a simple hummus dip. You can serve any leftovers for lunch the next day. Fritters 1 pound zucchini (about
3 medium size) 1½ teaspoons coarse salt ½ cup unbleached flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1 teaspoon oregano 2 large eggs, whisked 4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled canola oil
Dip 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 14.5-ounce can garbanzo
beans, rinsed and drained ¼ cup tahini 3 tablespoons extra virgin
olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons water, or more
to taste
1. For fritters: Trim zucchini and coarsely shred using a food processor. In a large colander, toss with 1 teaspoon salt. Let stand 30 minutes, wring out, and roll into a clean kitchen towel to remove excess moisture.2. In a large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, remaining salt, pepper, zest, and oregano, and whisk to combine. Stir in eggs, whisking until smooth. Stir in zucchini and feta.3. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add oil to cover bottom of pan. Using a ¼-cup measure, carefully drop batter into oil. Cook 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden-brown and firm when pressed. If not serving immedi-ately, transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and keep warm in a 250°F oven.4. For the dip: Drop garlic down feed tube of a food processor with motor running to mince. Add beans and pro-cess to create a uniform consistency, scraping down sides of jar as necessary. Add tahini and process until smooth. Scrape down sides of jar and add oil, lemon juice, and salt, and process until smooth. Gradually drizzle in water to cre-ate desired consistency. Scrape into a small bowl to serve with fritters.
Broccoli and Cauliflower Croquettes with Spinach-Yogurt Dip MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Broccoli and cauliflower are each popular veggies in their own right. Here, the cauliflower is puréed to hold the broccoli in a cheesy embrace. A tangy sauce of Greek yogurt and spinach completes the course with a little extra protein. Croquettes 1 10-ounce package frozen
2 large eggs ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup fresh parsley ¾ cup sharp Cheddar cheese 1 cup whole-wheat breadcrumbs ½ cup unbleached flour canola oil
Dip 2 cups fresh salad spinach 2 cups plain Greek yogurt 2 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon salt
1. For the croquettes: Drain vegetables and roll into a clean kitchen towel to remove excess moisture. Chop broccoli into ½-inch pieces. Using a food proces-sor, coarsely chop cauliflower. Add eggs, salt, and parsley, and process to mix well. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in broccoli, cheese, breadcrumbs, and flour, and stir to mix well.
2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and coat pan with oil. Using a ¼-cup measure, form ¾-inch-thick patties. Using wet hands, compress patties and place on a plate. Carefully slip croquettes into hot oil and cook 2 minutes per side, reducing heat if browning too quickly. If not serving immediately, transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and keep warm in a 250°F oven.3. For the dip: Using a food processor, chop spinach. Add yogurt, honey, and salt, and process until smooth. Dip can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered.
summer 2014 real food 39
Sweet Corn Fritters with Roasted Pepper Romesco Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS
With a cornmeal batter and a handful of fresh basil, these fritters are heady with the flavors of summer. A perfect tribute to just-picked corn, these toasty gems will please the whole family. An easy romesco sauce is thickened with healthy almonds and packed with sweet-pepper flavor. Sauce 1 clove garlic, peeled ¼ cup toasted almonds 2 large roasted red peppers,
drained and patted dry ¼ teaspoon cayenne ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Fritters ¼ cup cornmeal ¼ cup unbleached flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup plain yogurt 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 large egg, whisked 1¼ cups corn ½ cup fresh basil, chopped ¼ cup canola oil
1. For the sauce: Using a food proces-sor, finely mince garlic and almonds. Add peppers and process until smooth. Add cayenne, salt, and vinegar, and process until well mixed. Add oil and process until smooth. Scrape into a serving bowl.2. For the fritters: In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, oil, and egg until mixed. Stir yogurt mixture into cornmeal mixture just until combined. Stir in corn and basil. 3. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and drizzle in oil to cover bottom of pan. When oil is hot and shimmering, use a ¼-cup measure to scoop batter into oil, patting tops lightly to level and leaving ½ inch between fritters. When oil starts to sizzle, reduce heat to medium.4. When fritters start to bubble in center and look firm and golden around edges, flip with a metal spatula and cook 2 min-utes. Transfer to an oven-safe plate lined with paper towels and keep warm in a 250°F oven. Serve hot with romesco sauce.
Carrot and Brown Rice Nuggets with Honey-Mustard Sauce MAKES 3 SERVINGS
If you have a vegan coming for dinner, let her know that these yummy little nuggets are egg- and dairy-free. Enjoy the sweet carrot flavor and chewy brown rice with a drizzle of tangy honey-mustard sauce. Nuggets ½ cup medium-grain brown rice 1½ cups carrots, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons ground
golden flaxseeds 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon whole-wheat flour ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper 1 cup grated carrot 2 scallions, chopped canola oil
Sauce ½ cup Dijon mustard ¼ cup honey
1. For the nuggets: Preheat oven to 400°F and lightly oil a baking sheet. In a 1-quart pot, bring 1 cup water to a boil, add rice, and return to a boil. Reduce heat to lowest setting and cover tightly. Cook 35 to 40 minutes, until water is absorbed and surface of rice is dotted with holes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, at least 5 minutes.2. Steam or boil sliced carrots until very
tender and drain. Using a food proces-sor, purée. Add ½ cup rice, flaxseeds, mustard, flour, salt, and pepper, and pro-cess, scraping down jar twice, to create a well-mixed purée. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in remaining rice, grated carrots, and scallions.3. Using a ¼-cup measure, drop batter onto pan. Flatten to ¾-inch-thick pat-ties, tucking loose shreds of carrot into rounds. Bake 40 minutes, flipping halfway through cook time, until golden-brown.4. For the sauce: Stir together ingredi-ents and serve with hot nuggets.
summer 2014 real food 41
Spinach Cakes with Marinara Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS
You might be surprised how much spinach you can pack into a cake like this. All that leafy-green goodness partners with a little Parmesan and egg to become a delicious morsel. Browning the edges in hot oil adds a toasty flavor and crunchy crust. Cakes 2 10-ounce packages frozen
spinach, thawed 2 tablespoons extra virgin
olive oil 2 small onions 2 eggs 1 pinch nutmeg ¾ cup flour, divided ¾ cup Parmesan cheese,
finely grated 1½ teaspoons thyme ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper ¼ cup canola oil
Sauce 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 14.5-ounce can diced
tomatoes with juice ¼ cup red wine 2 tablespoons fresh parsley ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground
black pepper
1. Press spinach into a colander to drain and wring out by the hand-ful. Roll in a clean kitchen towel to remove excess moisture. Reserve. 2. In a large sauté pan, heat olive oil and sauté onions over medium heat, stirring, until clear and soft. Transfer half of onions to a large bowl and let cool. To make sauce, add garlic to remaining onions in pan and stir until fragrant. Add tomatoes, wine, parsley, oregano, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and sim-mer 5 minutes to thicken. Transfer to a medium bowl.
3. Add spinach and eggs to onion in bowl and stir to mix. Add nutmeg, ½ cup flour, cheese, thyme, salt, and pepper, and stir to mix well. Spread remaining flour on a plate. Using a ½-cup measure, create ¾- to 1-inch-thick patties. Place on plate, turning to coat lightly with flour. Chill, cov-ered, until ready to cook.4. Heat canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Carefully add cakes and cook, flipping every 2 minutes, until golden-brown and firm when pressed. If not serving immediately, transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels and keep warm in a 250°F oven. Serve with warm marinara sauce. ■
ZUCCHINI-FETA FRITTERS W. HUMMUS DIP:PER SERVING: CALORIES 534 (315 from fat); FAT 36g (sat. 8g); CHOL 118mg; SODIUM 1212mg; CARB 38g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 18g
BROCCOLI & CAULIFLOWER CROQUETTES W. DIP:PER SERVING: CALORIES 358 (152 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 6g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 715mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 22g
SWEET CORN FRITTERS W. ROMESCO SAUCE:PER SERVING: CALORIES 399 (243 from fat); FAT 28g (sat. 3g); CHOL 49mg; SODIUM 1021mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 9g
CARROT & BROWN RICE NUGGETS W. SAUCE:PER SERVING: CALORIES 336 (63 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g) ; CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 1509mg; CARB 63g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 7g
SPINACH CAKES W. MARINARA SAUCE:PER SERVING: CALORIES 293 (167 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 4g); CHOL 41mg; SODIUM 791mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 11gN
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42 real food summer 2014
When we absorb the magic and complexity of what bees must do to make honey, it’s not too farfetched to consider bees and their honey a gift from the universe. Fortunately, bees make plenty of honey to feed their own community and us humans, too. This gift comes in hundreds of varieties, the most common of which is clover honey found in pantries worldwide. Here, honey lends a touch of sweetness to savory dishes and the backbone to sweets.
Liquid GoldA honey of a gift from hardworking bees
EXCERPT FROM HER BOOK: TASTE OF HONEY: THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO TASTING AND COOKING WITH 40 VARIETALS
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BY MARIE SIMMONS
summer 2014 real food 43
PhotograPhy Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics
PoPover Pancake with honey SPiced aPPleS
44 real food summer 2014
Popover Pancake with Honey Spiced Apples MakeS 4 ServingS
Sometimes called Dutch Baby Pancake, this easy dish is baked in a skillet. Cast iron is preferred, but any heavy skillet with an ovenproof handle will work. The pancake will puff up dramati-cally around the edges, resulting in a pool in the center perfect for the apple slices poached in spiced honey. Other fruits can be used. Try it with peaches, nectarines, or pears. Serve this as a brunch dish or dessert. Varietal: Mildly sweet orange blossom, alfalfa, or clover. Also try honey infused with ginger, lavender, or cinnamon. Pancake 3 large eggs ¾ cup milk 1 tablespoon honey ¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into
small pieces
honey Spiced apples 2 or 3 large apples, preferably golden
delicious 1 tablespoon unsalted butter ½ teaspoon ground cardamom, ginger,
or cinnamon ½ cup honey 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1. To make the pancake, preheat the oven to 400°F. Place in the oven an 8- or 10-inch cast-iron skillet or heavy skillet with a heatproof handle.2. Put the eggs, milk, and honey in a large bowl and whisk. Add the flour and whisk until well blended.3. Using a pot holder, remove the skillet from the oven and add the butter. Tilt the skillet to melt the butter and coat the skillet evenly. Add the batter all at once and return the skillet to the oven. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until the pancake puffs up around the edges and is golden brown. 4. While the pancake is baking, make the honey spiced apples. Quarter, core, and peel the apples and cut into ¼-inch-thick wedges. Melt the but-ter in a medium skillet. Add the apples and cook, stirring gently with a rubber spatula, for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned on both sides. Sprinkle with the spice of choice. Add the honey and stir to coat the apples. Heat until the honey boils, then add the lemon juice and remove from the heat.5. To serve, slide the pancake onto a platter. Spoon the apples and honey syrup into the center and cut into wedges, distributing the fruit evenly.
Sweet and Sour Meatballs MakeS 4 ServingS (about 32 MeatballS)
This is a contemporary version of the once-popular 1950s cocktail meat-balls made with currant jelly and chili sauce. Here the tender, succulent meatballs are spiced with Sriracha, puréed tomatoes, honey, and apple cider vinegar. Serve with toothpicks reminiscent of the chafing-dish ver-sion or serve for dinner with rough mashed potatoes and cooked greens or steamed broccoli. There won’t be any leftovers. Varietal: Most will work, although buckwheat or fruit blossom will stand up to the tomato sauce. Meatballs 1 cup soft, fresh breadcrumbs ½ cup water 1 large egg 1 pound lean ground beef ¼ cup raisins 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil ½ cup chopped yellow onion 1 clove garlic, grated 1 teaspoon coarse salt 1 teaspoon Sriracha or other hot sauce ½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger
Sauce 1 (28-ounce) can whole or diced tomatoes with juices ¼ cup honey ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Sriracha ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon coarse salt
1. Place the breadcrumbs and water in a large bowl. Let stand for about 5 minutes, or until the bread has absorbed the water. Beat the egg into the mixture with a fork. Crumble the ground beef into the bowl. Add the raisins and set aside. Do not mix yet.2. In a small skillet, heat the olive oil until hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and stir over medium heat for about 3 minutes, or until translucent. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the onion and garlic to the bowl with the ground beef. Add the salt, Sriracha, and ginger. Gently combine the ingredients. Do not squeeze mixture with your hands because it will make the meatballs too compact. Refrigerate the meatball mixture for about 30 minutes.3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spread a sheet pan with a sheet of parch-ment paper or aluminum foil.4. Have ready a small bowl of cold water to wet your hands while shaping the meatballs. Pinch off 1-inch pieces of the meatball mixture and roll in wet hands to form balls. The mixture will be moist and soft. Line up the meatballs, about ½ inch apart, on the pan. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until browned.5. While the meatballs are browning, make the sauce. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, purée the tomatoes, honey, vinegar, Sriracha, cinnamon, and salt. Transfer to a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven and heat to boiling. Boil the sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until thickened and reduced by half.6. When the meatballs are browned, use a spatula or slotted spoon to add them to the sauce. Gently spoon the sauce over the meatballs and cook covered on low heat for 5 minutes. Serve in bowls with sauce spooned on top, or serve from a chafing dish on small plates with forks or toothpicks for spearing.
The Colors of Honey The floral sources—or particular blossoms—of the nectar influences the color, fragrance, thickness, texture, and flavor of the honey. Honey is found in an array of colors including almost white, pale yellow, golden, light amber, dark amber, and brown. Lighter-colored honeys generally have a milder flavor but with a pronounced floral aroma aften accompanied by herbal, spice, vanilla, butterscotch, or other enticing flavor notes. As the honey gets darker in color, the aroma and taste becomes more distinctive. This is when such words as "robust," "assertive," and "big" are used as descriptors.
48 real food summer 2014
Cold Chinese Noodles with Spicy Honey Peanut Sauce MakeS 4 ServingS
Peanut sauce for Chinese noodles is a favorite at our house. Instead of sugar, I add honey, which lends a smoother, more rounded sweetness to this addictive sauce. I like to add plenty of vegetables, such as scallions, carrots, and cucumbers, to the noodles. Varietal: Neutral flavored clover, alfalfa, or orange blossom.
1 pound fresh wheat-flour chinese
noodles or dried thin spaghetti 4 tablespoons toasted asian sesame oil 4 tablespoons soy sauce ¹⁄³ cup smooth peanut butter ¼ cup honey 3 tablespoons chinese sesame paste 3 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese
rice vinegar 2 to 4 tablespoons warm water ½ teaspoon coarse salt ¼ to ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper 3 scallions, cut into thin diagonal slices
(green and white parts) 1 large carrot, coarsely shredded ½ crisp seedless cucumber, cut into thin
strips (¼ by 1 inch) 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
1. Heat a large pot half filled with water to boil-ing. Place the noodles in the water and cook, for about 4 minutes for fresh noodles and 8 minutes for dried spaghetti, or until tender. Drain well and rinse with cold water, lifting the cooked noodles with tongs to prevent sticking. Shake in a col-ander to remove excess water. Put the noodles in a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons each of the sesame oil and the soy sauce. Refrigerate for about 1 hour.2. To make the peanut sauce, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons each of sesame oil and soy sauce, peanut butter, honey, sesame paste, vinegar, 2 tablespoons of warm water, salt, and red pepper in a blender or the bowl of a food processor. Blend or process until the sauce is smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and red pepper, if desired. Adjust the thickness of the sauce with more warm water, adding it 1 tablespoon at a time, if needed. Set aside at room temperature.3. When the noodles are chilled, add the peanut sauce and toss with tongs to distribute evenly. Spread the noodles on a deep platter and top with the scallions, carrots, cucumber, and cilantro.
Chicken Cutlets with Honey, Lemon, and Ginger Sauce and Ginger-Honey Walnuts MakeS 4 ServingS
Honey-glazed walnuts spiked with garlic and ginger are so addictive you might want to double the recipe to have extras on hand for snacking. They are great with these tender cutlets coated with tangy honey, lemon, and ginger sauce. This recipe uses a small amount of chicken broth. Keep small amounts on hand by freezing homemade or store-bought broth in ice cube trays or small plastic freezer containers. Varietal: Full-bodied with floral notes such as lemon, orange blossom, or clover. ginger-honey walnuts 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil ½ teaspoon grated ginger 1 small clove garlic, grated ½ cup walnut halves 1 tablespoon honey ½ teaspoon coarse salt
lemon chicken 1½ pounds boneless and skinless chicken breasts (see note) coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon grated ginger 1 clove garlic, grated ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ cup chicken broth 2 tablespoons honey 1 thinly sliced scallion (about 1 tablespoon, green part only)
1. To make the walnuts, place the oil, ginger, and garlic in a small skillet. Slowly heat over medium-low until the garlic sizzles. Add the walnuts and honey. Cook on medium heat for about 2 to 3 minutes, adjusting the temperature until the honey boils and sticks to the walnuts and the walnuts turn golden. Sprinkle with the salt, adjusting to taste. Transfer to a side dish or a sheet of aluminum foil. Do not put on paper towels because they will stick.2. With a sharp knife, fillet the chicken breasts through the thickest part to make 8 cutlets. Place them on a large piece of plastic wrap, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with a second sheet of plastic wrap, and gently but firmly pound the chicken with a meat pounder or the underside of a small, heavy skillet to make fillets of even thickness of ¼ to ¹⁄³ inch.3. Spread the flour on a large plate and lightly dredge the cutlets; shake off the excess flour.4. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, broad skillet until hot enough to sizzle. Add the cutlets a few at a time and cook for 1 to 2 min-utes per side, until lightly browned. As the cutlets are cooked, transfer to a platter and cover with foil to keep warm.5. Discard the oil in the skillet and let the skillet cool slightly. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil, ginger, and garlic to the skillet. Heat and stir over medium-low heat just until the garlic sizzles. Add the lemon juice, chicken broth, and honey. Heat, stirring to loosen any browned bits in the skillet, for about 3 minutes, or until the mixture boils and thickens. Pour the sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with the walnuts and the scallions.Note: If you purchase already pounded chicken cutlets, skip step 2.
summer 2014 real food 49
chicken cutletS with honey, leMon, and ginger Sauce and ginger-honey walnutS and cold chineSe
noodleS with SPicy honey Peanut Sauce
50 real food summer 2014
honey chocolate cake with honey whiPPed creaM
summer 2014 real food 51
POPOVER PANCAKE W. HONEY SPICED APPLES:Per Serving: calorieS 437 (119 from fat); Fat 13g (sat. 7g); chol 165mg; SodiuM 70mg; carb 74g; Fiber 2g; Protein 9g
CHICKEN CUTLETS W. HONEY, LEMON, & GINGER SAUCE:Per Serving: calorieS 501 (230 from fat); Fat 26g (sat. 4g); chol 106mg; SodiuM 373mg; carb 25g; Fiber 1g; Protein 42g
COLD CHINESE NOODLES W. HONEY PEANUT SAUCE:Per Serving: calorieS 717 (265 from fat); Fat 31g (sat. 5g) ; chol 0mg; SodiuM 1249mg; carb 95g; Fiber 10g; Protein 18g
HONEY CHOCOLATE CAKE W. HONEY WHIPPED CREAM:Per Serving: calorieS 588 (276 from fat); Fat 32g (sat. 19g); chol 118mg; SodiuM 275mg; carb 75g; Fiber 3g; Protein 8gN
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Honey Chocolate Cake with Chocolate-Honey Icing or Honey Whipped Cream MakeS 8 ServingS
Not to be overwhelmed by the chocolate and espresso, I like to use a big-flavored wildflower, buckwheat, avocado, or eucalyptus honey that will complement the mix of flavors.
Moist and chocolaty with hints of espresso and honey, this is a favorite cake in our family. I served it with honey-sweetened whipped cream until our three-year-old grandson, Joey, already a dedicated chocolate fan, insisted that it have chocolate icing. This delicate cake uses cake flour. To approximate cake flour when none is on hand, place 2 tablespoons of cornstarch in a 1-cup measure and add enough all-purpose flour to fill the cup. Stir well to blend.
4 squares (4 ounces) unsweetened chocolate ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened ¾ cup firmly packed light brown sugar ½ cup honey 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups sifted cake flour (see headnote for substitution) 1 teaspoon baking powder, sifted 1 teaspoon baking soda, sifted 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ cup buttermilk, at room temperature ¼ cup brewed espresso honey whipped cream (recipe right)
or chocolate icing (recipe right)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 9-inch square or round baking pan.2. Place the chocolate in a small bowl and set the bowl in a saucepan of gently simmering water. Allow the chocolate to slowly melt. Do not get any water in the chocolate or it will get grainy. Slightly cool the melted chocolate.3. In the large bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter and brown sugar for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Gradually beat in the honey until well blended. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla. Blend in the chocolate.4. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and cinnamon. Combine the buttermilk and espresso in a separate bowl.5. With a rubber spatula, alternately add the dry ingredients and the buttermilk mixture to the creamed mixture. Blend well.6. Spread the batter in the pan. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the edges pull away from the sides and a thin skewer or cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. When the cake is cooled, cut it into squares or rectangles and top each with a mound of stiffly beaten Honey Whipped Cream. Or, turn the cake out of the pan and spread Chocolate Icing along the sides and on top of the cake. ■
Honey Whipped CreamWhip 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks begin to form. Gradually beat in 2 tablespoons of honey and 1 tea-spoon of vanilla extract. Beat until the cream makes stiff peaks.
Chocolate IcingHeat 1 cup of heavy cream, 8 ounc-es of coarsely chopped semisweet chocolate, and ¹⁄³ cup of honey in a heavy medium-size saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 min-utes, or until simmering and smooth. Add 2 tablespoons of cold butter and stir until melted. Refrigerate, stirring every 30 minutes, until the mixture is of icing consistency and stiff enough to spread.
Brilliant BeesThe average worker bee makes about ¹⁄¹² teaspoon of honey in her lifetime. To produce 1 pound of honey might require honey bees to visit five million flowers and include flights totaling more than 100,000 miles. (While its little wings flap nearly 25,000 times a minute.)
This little insect with amaz-ing powers thrives in such a complex community that once we begin to grasp even just a small part of what it takes to produce honey we surely never will take honey bees—or honey—for granted. Plus, their pollination is essential to much of our agriculture.
52 real food summer 2014
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“Did you know that research shows that if you smell food as it’s cooking, you’re satisfied with fewer calories than if you’d just brought in food from the outside?”
Ellie Krieger is always good for revelations like this. A registered dietitian with a master’s degree in nutrition from Columbia University and a long list of best-selling cookbooks, she may be the most powerfully persuasive per-son I’ve ever met when it comes to making an argument for cooking at home. Her warm, approachable manner is only one of the rea-sons she’s a sought-after speaker, appeared on CNN, and is a regular on shows such as The Today Show and Good Morning America, not to mention a Food Network star with a show of her own. She’s also got the knowledge to back up her enthusiastic embrace of home cooking, as well as the chops to present a version that’s both delicious and healthy.
Right now, we’re chatting about her latest book, Weeknight Wonders, a volume I’d quickly become obsessed with for dishes such as pumpkin seed pesto and penne with chicken,
mushrooms, and spinach—combinations that are both unusual and seem to pack more flavor than I’d guess from the titles.
In fact, she tells me, she’s purposely harness-ing the power of umami, the so-called “fifth” or “savory” taste so hallowed in Japanese cuisine. “It’s a key trick for me,” she says. “There are a lot of healthy foods like mushrooms strong in umami flavors, and umami flavors work syn-ergistically: if you have two or three of them in a dish, they combine to make a flavor big-ger than the sum of its parts,” she says. It’s a good tip if you’re looking to cut down on meat and fat in a dish. “People say that it’s the fat in meat that has the flavor—but it’s the lean that has the umami,” she explains. A little bit of meat combined with some umami-rich foods (think tomatoes, soy sauce, Parmesan cheese) makes a dish taste meatier than it is; harness the full power of the flavor and meat isn’t even necessary to create beefy flavor, as her all-mushroom “Sloppy Joe” proves—and explains through its robust flavor why she describes umami as “savory deliciousness.”
Weeknight Wonder Woman
Chef, nutritionist, and author Ellie Krieger believes the best route to healthy eating is to ditch deprivation and dieting and
focus on flavorful food that happens to be good for you— and if you can whip it up in 30 minutes or less, that’s even better.
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54 real food summer 2014
Demonstrating how to create dishes that are as nutritious as they are delicious is what makes Krieger’s books so valuable. Having worked with everyone from private clients to New York City public schools and Michelle Obama on nutrition education initiatives aimed at children, she’s acutely aware of the challenges of eating healthfully in a fast-paced world filled with fast, cheap, and unhealthful choices, and she’s developed a refreshingly sensible approach. There are no calculators in her kitchen; instead, she relies on common sense, working from an easy-to-remember formula of “usually-sometimes-rarely”: “Usually” foods are the backbone of the meal, and include vegetables, beans, whole grains, nuts, seeds, whole fruits, and low-fat dairy; “sometimes” foods are those that are more processed or higher in satu-rated fats, like dark-meat chicken; “rarely” are the ingredients to use sparingly, such as butter, sugar, and cream.
She typically hones to only one hard-and-fast rule: No food is off limits. That means you can—and she does—sauté in a little butter, or slip in some dark-meat chicken; use real whipped cream, and eat a little chocolate. Deprivation has no place in her diet philosophy. But for Weeknight Wonders, however, she added one more rule: All the dishes in the book had to be able to be com-pleted, start to finish, in 30 minutes or less. And she took a hard line on the time limits: No cheating by calling for one onion already trimmed, peeled and chopped; no cup of rice already cooked.
That’s a tall order for even an accom-plished cook (I know, as a former profession-al chef who struggles most work nights to make it under 45 minutes). But, she says, it was for her own good. It turns out that, just like so many other oversubscribed working mothers, she, too, found herself increasingly answering the siren call of the pizza place and other culinary conveniences on the way home from work, feeling pressed for time and short on energy. But in the end, the shortcuts backfired. “The thing is, going out can seem simple in the moment but it can become exhausting,” she says. “It gets late; people are tired. And now that my daughter has more homework, I just decided I had to cook at home more.”
It wasn’t always easy, she says, finding recipes that would meet her nutritional guidelines, time constraints, and delight her daughter and husband, but in the end she came up with the 150 recipes that fit the bill—the ones that fill Weeknight Wonders. And it was worth the work. “I know this is going to sound really funny,” she says, “but this book really changed my life. By having this arsenal of recipes that I know for certain can be done in 30 minutes or less, I do cook more.”
The benefits have gone further than just saving money and eating more healthfully, she says. Perhaps the most valuable side effect of cooking at home is the time it’s allowed her to spend with her daughter. “Typically, she’s doing her homework while I’m cooking; she’s sitting at the kitchen island, so she can ask me questions and we can talk as I cook,” Krieger says. Plus, ph
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—Ellie Krieger
ElliE and hEr daughtEr, BElla (lEft) with hEr friEnd (right)
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she adds, “Even if she’s not cooking, by just being around the kitchen while I’m cooking she’s gaining a sense of food, a sense of exploration and adventure.” Case in point: One day, while snacking on a nectarine, she grabbed a piece of fennel Krieger had just sliced. The combination struck her as so delicious she insisted her mom try it—and thus was born another winning recipe for the book: Nectarine and Fennel Salad with Crispy Prosciutto.
Of course, kids are going to pick up that sense of adventure and exploration only if the kitchen feels like a place of explora-tion and adventure—not if you’re run-ning around like a stressed-out maniac. To that end, Krieger advises, go easy on yourself. “Give yourself room to play,” she says. “Cooking is a low-stakes propo-sition. I think we often get caught up in the sense that everything has to be just so… but come on, we all make mistakes—so what? Even if it’s not perfect, chances are it’s going to be pretty good anyway.” If you’ve gotten out of the habit of cook-ing, she advises starting slow and simple. “We have this tendency to make things an all-or-nothing proposition: ‘I’m going to start cooking at home, and I’m going to do it every single day.’” That’s a lot of pressure. Instead, she suggests, start with one or two recipes each week for a month. “By the time two months have gone by, you’ll have eight to ten new recipes in your repertoire.”
You might save some money, and you will almost surely be eating more health-fully. But the side effect for Krieger? “Cooking at home made life so much eas-ier,” Krieger says. “We are more relaxed, we are eating better. And now we go out on weekends when we have more time and can enjoy it more.” ■
Whole-Grain Penne with Chicken, Mushrooms, and Spinach MaKES 4 SErVingS
12 ounces whole-grain penne 2 tablespoons olive oil ¾ pound skinless boneless chicken breasts ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 medium onion ½ pound sliced assorted fresh mushrooms (such as cremini,
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Add the pasta and cook accord-ing to the directions on the package.2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a very large skillet over medium-high heat. Slice the chicken into thin (¼-inch) strips. Season it with ¼ teaspoon each of the salt and black pepper and cook until browned and just cooked through, stirring once or twice, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. While the chicken is cooking, slice the onion thinly into half-moons.3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the skillet. Add the mushrooms and onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms and onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have released their water and begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Meanwhile, mince the garlic and chop the thyme leaves. Add them to the skillet and cook, stirring for 1 minute more.4. Add the broth, crushed red pepper flakes, and remaining ¼ teaspoon each salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil over a high heat, then cook, uncovered, until the liquid has reduced by about half, 5 minutes. While the sauce is reducing, thinly slice the sun-dried tomatoes, coarsely chop the spinach, and grate the cheese. Once the sauce is reduced, stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and spinach and cook until the spinach is wilted, 20 seconds.5. Drain the pasta and return it to the pasta pot. Add the mushroom-spinach mixture, the chicken with any accumulated juices, and ¼ cup of the Parmesan cheese and toss to combine. Serve garnished with the remaining ¼ cup cheese.
Fruitful PartnershipsWine tasting notes may wax poetic about the bottle’s contents being velvety or perhaps having something to do with pencil shavings but they also usually note the juice’s fruit flavors—such as citrus, peach, nectarine, apricots, and melon in the case of white wines—which help them make a cool union with fresh fruit, something that’s abundant this time of year.
It’s best to select a wine that is as sweet as or sweeter than the fruit you are pairing; otherwise, the fruit can “cancel out” that fruity flavor in the wine. Off-dry or sweet white or rosé wines can be a good match with fruit, especially sweeter styles of Riesling, Chenin Blanc, and Gewürztraminer as well as Asti, Muscat, and Sauternes.
Moderately sweet Riesling (Spätlese) or sweet (late harvest), for example, can pair nicely with a wide range of fruits such as berries, grapes, apples, cantaloupe, citrus fruit, watermelon, and stone fruits including apricots, nectarines, and peaches. ■
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pairings
BY MARY SUBIALKA
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