Making Sodium Chlorate Black Powder

(2nd Edition)

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Making Sodium Chlorate Black

Powder (2nd Edition)

By: arefiq

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Table of Contents:

# Subject

Page

1 Preface

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2 Abstract

4

3 Introduction

5

4 How does Black Powder works

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5 Materials and method implemented for the Chlorate Black Powder production

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6 Be focus and Safety first. Again, use your common sense

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7 The Chlorate Black Powder in 1788 brief history

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8 The Chlorate-Sulfur mix notorious issue

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9 Chlorate-Sulfur study by Herbert G. Tanner

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10 The main highlighted information from the study

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11 The Polythionic acid Trigger mechanism

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12 Discussion of the Trigger mechanism

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13 Getting started, getting the right materials and explanations

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14 Homemade Chlorate Black Powder process

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15 The makeshift kitchen tissue strip fuse

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16 Chlorate-Sulfur mix and Chlorate Black Powder decent sensitivity test

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17 The typical burn rate test

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19 Reference and recommended reading

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Making Sodium Chlorate Black Powder (2nd edition)

By: arefiq

It is simple, easy to obtain materials and fairly powerful. A homemade Chlorate Black Powder making

manual that comes with decent makeshift fuse making and discussion on Chlorate-Sulfur known issue.

For a desperate situations when it is needed. *This documentation is the improved version of Making

Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder.

Preface: In the name of Allah, Most Gracious, Most Merciful; peace be upon you,

Since I was a child Im always fascinated by those simple exploding tubes device called firecracker. Since

it is actually a banned item it is hard to find them other than the festive days. Even most of them that

sell on market were actually smuggled, and expensive enough to afford. Then, my search starts on

making one myself. There goes Mr. Google. Of course making, handling, storing these is dangerous since

it is explosive and can cause potential fires. Use common sense, general knowledge with the chemicals

hazards and also safety first.

There is also other guide on making real Black Powder here on the net; however since here where I live I

could not get myself on certain materials and the chemicals I need especially the oxidizer Potassium

nitrate. Therefore, I am here writing the guide based on my experience how I make one here where I

live by using Sodium chlorate as oxidizer substitute.

One will think that this person will blow himself up and ended with broken or lose his limbs because

mad enough to substitute Nitrates for Chlorates in making Black Powder. Yes, I am mad enough to

experiment with it. Thanks to Allah that I am still intact with no broken or lose limbs after all those

years. I aware the danger it poses, the compatibility issues, and the sensitivity issues of mixing Chlorates

with Sulfur is a recipe for disaster. However I did succeed on making one that I consider it is for

desperate situations. Every method employed here is not safe and dangerous because working with

Chlorate-Sulfur mix. Of course, use common sense and safety first.

Frankly odd enough, the way the Chlorate Black Powder made never just yet to set off by itself while in

storage as long as I remember even the longest one on the shelf about more than a couple of years. But

that did not cancel the possible self-ignition issue of Chlorate-Sulfur mix potential as we all believe. We

think it is safe, until something went wrong. It seems its just not there yet. However, here the Chlorate-

Sulfur issue will be discussed further in details.

I am aware that I am not a professional in this field of study to write a guide and my experience in

handling and utilizing such explosive powder. And I always consider myself as an amateur and still need

more to learn. Most of the knowledge I gain is from reading materials and some from personal

experiences. Again, I am not an expert in this field. I am not a Guru, Sensei, Sifu, Teacher and or a

Scientist that utilizing proper tools and instrumentations or also not limited to any of those terms ones

use to describe these kinds of people. I dont belong to any group of pyrotechnic nor receive any

pyrotechnic training and or having any qualification regarding the field of study. I am just a typical

country guy lives far from big cities which work individually that fascinated by the arts of Black Powder.

arefiq

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Abstract

This homemade version of Chlorate Black Powder is simple, easy to make with available materials, and

explode with fairly loudness and strength. However, flash powder made from Potassium perchlorate

and Aluminum powder provide much more power, safer handling, and much faster burning rates and

produce louder report than the typical Black Powder. Despite that, we proceed for producing Chlorate

Black Powder due to the unavailability of materials and or when in the times of desperation whenever a

Black Powder substitute is needed to be utilized on the field. Generally Chlorate Black Powder would

produce much more power capacity than a Nitrate based Black Powder.

This is not the full, the best and complete guide on homemade Black Powder but it still works. However,

bear in minds that safety come first, use common sense and acquire the knowledge and information of

making Black Powder before made the powder practically. This document covers the subjects of

producing Sodium Chlorate Black Powder, the Chlorate-Sulfur known issues and producing makeshift

fuse.

This version of documentation is the continuation from the results of experimenting and optimizing

from my older documentation of Making Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder which need improvements. This

guide is not limited to Chlorate only oxidizer base. Also good enough for Potassium or Sodium nitrates

based and should be complying with its chemical safe handling and precaution. I would not be

responsible in any liability of your doing regarding this documentation. Read it at your own risk. Making

a Black Powder is a dangerous business. This documentation is for reading, educational, information,

optimization, learning and sharing purposes.

*I thought at first it would not be necessary to update my former documentation posted on 2009 (when I was still

a kid), however; with over than 8000 views (thanks for take a look), it really concerns me. Therefore, here the

further improved method and a little more information is included (at least, this time much better than before).

This documentation is just a small fraction from the intentional documentation, hope more will be coming in the

future. Allahs willing.

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Introduction:

By means of desperation, one would result from failing to obtain the preferable oxidizer of Potassium or

Sodium nitrates. Thus, substitute the oxidizer role with other type of oxidizer which is readily available.

Or the desperation calls when in the state of war or state of emergency where to obtain materials

needed is limited and manual old time production of Nitrates would take longer time. In addition to

that, high explosive is out of reach to be utilized and high explosive require detonator to work

effectively. The desperation calls comes with a price, which is obviously to work with the dangerous

Chlorate-Sulfur mix of powder.

Today in modern times, people assume Low-Order Explosive is weak and out of question to be used for

material damage and fatal injury. In fact, back in the history the common Low-Order Explosive device

Pipe Bomb was notoriously utilized against personal and materials in an unconventional warfare. It has

been favorites of revolutionaries and criminals throughout the world. Other than that, Black Powder still

capable to produce considerable blast energy many kind of rocks in rock blasting. Is fireworks is not

capable enough to kill people and cause damage? Just imagine if those huge aerial fireworks shell that

we used to watch during festive days explodes in ones house. Therefore, a properly made Low-Order

Explosive device still poses a serious threat even it might not be as powerful as High-Order Explosives

counterpart.

In older times, the secret of making Black Powder lies in the charcoal used without excessive

temperature in making. Also, the method to mix the powder is vital. People said that, the best wood to

make a charcoal for Black Powder is from the softwood types of Willow tree species. Other types of

softwood also can be used to make a good charcoal for Black Powder as such Pine wood and even from

the grape vines.

However, the method to produce the Black Powder is varied. Some said it has to be ball milled no other

way to produce high performance homemade Black Powder. Other implements the well-known CIA

method. While other employs the Precipitation method and some commercially made powder uses Hot

Aqueous Saturated Mix method and Wet method. Nevertheless, here in this documentation the Wet

method is preferred because to avoid dry mix impact and heat in the procedure that might cause

tragedy in making the very sensitive Chlorate Black Powder. Although the method used here has slight

changes were modified to the method to comply with the very sensitive mix and also for the ability of

homemade production with available apparatus.

If ones want to produce a high quality, high performance and the fastest as possible homemade Black

Powder with Nitrates, there is a lots out there on the net on how to making one. From simple to

advanced and even a much more expensive approach. Yet, none of Chlorate Black Powder was made. I

believe there is somewhere out there. Nevertheless, in old times they still capable to make a quality

powder where advanced scientific machines were unavailable with decent unknown purity of materials

and decent accuracy. Some Black Powder enthusiast might be exaggerating with their method and

materials selection of choice for the best while other might be bias and some other might never even

make one or even test with it thus concluding and post all their claims based on just an info from a mere

reading. I recommend reading on Black Powder Manufacturing, Testing & Optimizing by Ian Von Maltitz.

This book clear various misunderstood regarding the Black Powder and how to produce a good, high

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quality and performance with the fastest burn rate powder possible and some even surpass the

commercial made powder. However, the book did not state on how to make it specifically with

complete procedures but it included the critical factor that affect the Black Powder performance. Other

than that, it includes results of data from various tests, many other interesting subject and very

informative for further insight.

Initially, Black Powder was used for propelling a projectile. In history there were once that Black Powder

was used for blasting rocks. However it is not so powerful and brisance enough for specific more

intensive purposes and later was replaced by better and stronger explosive, a dynamite. But still, one

can benefit its power properties to be utilized when needed utmost. Plus, it is way cheaper than high

explosives.

In my older document Making Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder, I state it as gunpowder. However, I change

it to Black Powder because the term gunpowder sounds to be closely related for a powder to be used in

gun which is not the case. Either way, there is no distinct difference between the two terms as it is the

just the same.

How does Black Powder works

A gunpowder or Black Powder is an intimately mixture of oxidizer, fuel and sensitizer. The common

recipe which is still acceptable composition around for general purposes is 75:15:10 formulas by weight

of Potassium nitrate, charcoal and Sulfur. Since here we utilizing Sodium chlorate for the oxidizer role,

generally the powder would produce a faster, stronger, violent and way much more sensitive than Black

Powder made with the original Potassium or Sodium nitrates. Faster and stronger doesnt make it a

safer and perform better in certain task, also comes with significant payback which is highly dangerous.

Black Powder is considered as Low-Order Explosive. Because it cannot explode by itself in an open

space, instead it burn or deflagrate at high rates. When in closed and confined state, the powder burns

inside very rapidly and build up gas pressure strong and fast enough thus resulting the tube body to

rupture and explode. The faster the burning rates of the powder, and the stronger the body container to

hold the gas buildup until all the powder were burnt inside, the stronger the gas explosion to occur.

However, it will only explode when the powder has sufficient or excess amount of powder to convert to

gas and the pressure is strong enough to cause the casing to rupture and thus exploded. As in simple

terms; a gas pressure blast. For the explosion to works properly; the faster the powder burn rate, the

better it serve its purpose.

If the powder is not sufficient to build strong enough pressure and the container hold strong enough to

resist, the container will not explode, but rather the gas will leak at the weak spot as the gas pressure

escapes at high speed. This is preferable for propelling a projectile like in the Muskets rifles barrel.

By chemical reaction or equation, one cannot guess the true or the exact product of combustion of Black

Powder. Because the exact chemical formula of the charcoal used is unknown. A charcoal is not a pure

carbon. In the art of making of high performance Black Powder, specific charcoal from specific types of

wood used to make charcoal is vital to produce the highest burn rates possible. The charring process

also counts to retain the other substances that reside inside which called volatiles. These volatiles is

actually vital in the reaction with the incorporated materials notably the oxidizer and the Sulfur as it is

believed.

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Generally Chlorate based Black Powder is not suitable for shooting in musket because it tends to

corrode the barrel. However, if desperation calls its still works to propel the projectiles as it should be.

This powder is effective in low-order explosive device. Remember, it is a low-order type of explosive. It

depends on gas pressure buildup in confined condition to explode. It did not detonate to cause massive

high explosion as high explosive would. Good thing is that, it does not require blasting cap or detonator

to start the explosion however; it is highly heat, sparks, friction and impact sensitive. Plus if the powder

is getting wet, the performance and its sensitivity would decrease.

Materials and method implemented for the Chlorate Black Powder production

Here in this documentation the main materials used for the Chlorate Black Powder is as follow to comply

with materials availability in the area of neighborhood:

As the desperation calls this is not considered to be the best result of Black Powder as its not utilizing

the best or a good choice of charcoal for the purpose.

In my experience, I mostly made 100g of powder batch at a time due to my tools limitation. Also, it is

generally better to work in small amount.

75% by weight: Sodium Chlorate (99.0% purity), powdered +sieved

15% by weight: BBQ Charcoal briquettes, powdered +sieved *I suspect might be made from

coconut shell as the package did not include what the charcoal come from, plus coconut shell

charcoal used extensively as source of charcoal. No any other additives such as petroleum based

product or quickening agent to start fire as it states.

10% by weight: Sulfur flour, already in powdered form +sieved

Note: Yes, I aware that utilizing a BBQ charcoal briquettes is the worst possible choice for a charcoal.

Plus if it is true the charcoal come from the coconut shell which is considered as hardwood it is way

much worst choice charcoal for even a fairly Black Powder.

However, I say it is still in usable range despite its poor performance. It burns in violent flash rather than

just a slow burning. It is so sensitive that even a small unseen ember could ignite it. In one test which

will be discussed in detail in later section, results show that it burns at the rate 0.53 second in 20cm3

powder train of 20cm x 1cm x1cm. Therefore, I calculate that it would go for 37.7cm per seconds. Its

quite fast, but still poor in performance. As the burning resides, leaves with very few black residue, with

airborne embers around. Thats not all; the key is that it is still can be improved further.

Of course the flash speed is not even equivalent or near to a Flash powder mix as I suppose. Therefore, I

pre-assume that if the Chlorate Black Powder were made with the prized softwood charcoal as such the

Willow wood charcoal charred nicely for the job and proper milling of the charcoal, it would be amazing.

I found on the net on how fast a Nitrate based Black Powder burn rate could go. The fastest I found was

a Nitrate based Black Powder made from Black-Willow branch at amazingly speeds of 189cm per

second! (Taken from: http://www.brianredmond.net/dwilliams/bptester/bptester.html) 5 times faster

than a makeshift Chlorate Black powder! Wow! Crazy speed for a Black Powder! Maybe someone out

there might capable to make even faster Black Powder burn rates.

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The original recipe method was not made by me; instead I am just following the step and comply with

my needs into producing the Chlorate Black Powder. Original method was taken from the net at Ulrich

Bretschers Home Page > Ulrich Bretschers Black Powder Page, Homemade Black Powder. Yes, I amazed

that those simple steps making homemade gunpowder actually works nicely for its purposes (Thanks a

lot for sharing).

Be focus and Safety first. Again, use your common sense.

Safety comes first. But to tell the truth, you will get injured somehow because you are playing with fires.

Burns would be common. I got several burn marks myself. So, be focus on whatever you are doing.

As for me, I once got my hand serious burns and leave permanent burn marks because of the sparkling

powder spew molten slag on my hands while experimenting and testing burn rates with different

percentage of composition for Chlorate Black Powder. Although the burns healed, still leaves marks.

Generally, some mild burns did not leave scar and would healed.

Another serious burn when I accidently hold a very hot steel tube without knowing until steams of water

actually came off from my hand! It was so careless that I didnt realize it. The cause, when I was trying to

make my first rocket without the balancing stick, I put it in a steel tube and lit it hoping it will launch

inside. But it fails to fly out. Instead, its just jets inside and actually heat the steel tube so hot and I hold

it without realize it right on the spot where the jets stream is located! My palm sizzled with steam came

off and instantly wrinkled my palm like a dried dead persons hand. The pain was very intense! I had to

put my hands in cold icy water for the whole day to lessen the pain. The good thing, it didnt leave any

scar.

And the other day, when experimenting on making the fuse, I actually tried to dry them in an oven with

just a warm normal temperature. At first it was fine; I thought it will be fine as long as the temperature

not rise high enough. But I was wrong. After a while, it ignites! Inside the oven! In mere seconds the

oven actually pop and explode to release the expanding gas pressure buildup inside. The whole house

filled with thick white smoke. Thank to Allah, no one was home other than me. However, the oven was

all covered in black inside out. I have to clean every inch of the oven parts. Chlorates are potentially

poisonous. I dont want the next day my family use the oven to cook something then someone ate them

and died because of chlorate poisoning! Well actually my mother did use it in the next day. Thank Allah

again that no one get sick after eat the cooks! In which including me.

Well, experience. We learn our lessons and gain additional knowledge. But make sure youre not crazy

and mad enough to lose your precious organs or even ones lives.

9

The Chlorate Black Powder in 1788 brief history;

Maybe the mill explosion was caused by sabotage? Well who know? If Berthollet successfully

manufacture the more powerful Chlorate Black Powder, it will replace the Nitrate Black Powder from

the market. This will cause huge liability towards the Nitrate Black Powder manufacturer.

Nevertheless, information is not clear regarding the cause of how the incidence happens. In Davis book,

The Chemistry of Powder and Explosives; it states that the mill was left alone; as the party (invited

people to witness including engineer) went for breakfast once the mill was started. Two of the

unfortunate that first to return; the material exploded. This concludes that the cause was because of the

powder mix instability; notably by friction, impact and heat.

And this enhances the explosion probability by the types of mill he used which is the stamp mill. Ian Von

Maltitz states in his book shown that stamp mill was proven in history that it has a very bad reputation

in Black Powder manufacturing. Many Black Powder manufacturing stamp mill known to cause

explosion due to the violent stamping action of the mill itself, rather than a circular grinding motion

action as compared to a mortar and pestle should. Powder milled in this manner always carried out wet

to reduce ignition probability. Even so, numerous numbers of accidents still happen thus had been

banned and phase out of services.

10

The Chlorate-Sulfur mix notorious issue

Here some examples of common quotation that people use regarding the Chlorate-Sulfur mix:

Never mix Chlorate with Sulfur! Its a Death mix! Recipe of disaster! Spontaneous ignition! Sudden

explode! Highly sensitive! Unstable! While some other extremist employ a very offensive statement in

which it is not necessary to be included here.

And here is some of the reasoning and a possible cause why it is deadly mentioned by most:

1. Sulfur and or Sulfides can react with Chlorates and form Chloric acid which is unstable explosive

2. Acidic compound presence in Sulfur decompose Chlorate thus causing ignition

3. Fine powdered Sulfur reacts with open air Oxygen to form Oxides of Sulfur which then reacts

with Chlorates in the presence of moisture to form Chloric acids. Thus promote ignition.

4. The presence of Oxides of Sulfur reacts with Chlorates in the presence of moisture to form

Chloric acids thus promoting ignition.

Yes, it is true at a point and the possibilities are there. However, on my opinion these were actually had

been exaggerated more like a war propaganda to avoid people to utilize such a compound. Rather, it is

actually was a misunderstood and the actual info transfer had changed from person to person in

understanding how EXACTLY it works.

In facts, this co called Death mix is actually had been used extensively. Notably in strike matches, in

some Flash powder mix and not least to a commercial fireworks made by the Chinese.

Here, the link for result of series sensitivity test of the Chinese Flash powder mix that utilizes Chlorate-

Sulfur; A Safety Study of Chlorate Firecracker

http://www.google.com.my/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CD

QQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sciencemadness.org%2Ftalk%2Ffiles.php%3Fpid%3D265585%26aid

%3D21101&ei=iuwlU76DFZHtrQfs24HwAg&usg=AFQjCNEfbJ6HwlmaPYCxiz2wDZCqTRqK-

Q&bvm=bv.62922401,d.bmk

Example of commercial firecracker utilizing Chlorate-Sulfur derivatives mix in 1996: Impact Firecrackers

http://www.privatedata.com/byb/pyro/impactfirecrackers.pdf

Aware or not; some pyro might not even think twice when priming their Chlorate stars with Black

Powder, using Black Powder burst charge when using Chlorate stars and also using Black Powder as lift

charge. Even if using Perchlorate instead, there is still chances that Chlorate impurity inside might react

even in very small quantity. Because, Perchlorate is produced by further oxidation of Chlorates;

possibilities of impurity is there.

Neither way, here I include some of official studies regarding the Chlorate-Sulfur safety issues taken

from http://www.oocities.org/capecanaveral/campus/5361/chlorate/safety.html

*Ill just copy everything so that none of the information will be left behind

*Ill let this open for public discussion as it will be bias if just solely by my point of view which is, I

already stated that I am not in any position to make any statements. In addition, misleading of personal

interpretation might likely to happen and some other crucial information is not included either from

older or modern findings.

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Note: This is one long ago study back in the February 1959, in which modern and recent studies would

be preferred. Even so, this study used as main source of explaining Chlorate-Sulfur instability in other

related books that cited this experimentation study.

Chlorate-Sulfur study by Herbert G. Tanner

Herbert G. Tanner

Instability of Sulfur-Potassium Chlorate Mixture: A chemical view

Journal of Chemical Education Vol. 36 No. 2, February 1959

Numerous amateur rocket enthusiasts suffered serious casualties from

premature sulfur-chlorate explosions, according to C. Burns (1). This is most

regrettable. These accidents should challenge elementary, chemistry teachers,

textbook writers, and civic-minded chemists to do their utmost to teach

safety to tyro chemists. Chemistry without safety is too frequently fatal.

The following exposition of the chemistry of sulfur-mixture is presented-with

the hope that the information will be conveyed to secondary school chemistry

students as a lesson in safety. Safety is not a series of "'don'ts," but is a

matter of foresight, with avoidance of hazards. In the discussion of the

chemistry of sulfur-chlorate mixture, an example of how safety can be

designed into an experiment is included for the benefit of the chemists of

tomorrow.

Sulfur, by itself, is not a particularly reactive element at ambient

temperatures. Even in the finely divided state it is difficult to ignite.

Similarly, chlorate is a relatively stable compound at ordinary temperature.

It decomposes only when heated (2) almost to its melting point of 368'C. It

is much less reactive at room temperature than is pure oxygen, for example.

These facts would not incline one to predict that a simple mixture of sulfur

and chlorate might ignite spontaneously after being stored in a warehouse

many months, or detonate when a fuse is being stuffed into a rocket charge.

World accident records for the past, century show that sulfur-chlorate

stability is erratic and unpredictable. This fact indicates that the mixture

might contain a concealed chemical trigger. A close look, particularly at

sulfur, discloses this trigger and the manner in which it becomes cocked.

There are two basic grades of sulfurcrude and refined. Sulfur produced at

the mine is called crude sulfur (formerly roll sulfur"). About half of the

world of sulfur is extracted from the ground in Texas by the Frasch process.

Traditionally, this raw product is called crude sulfur, even though it has

the amazing purity of 99.8 to 99.9% sulfur. The chief impurities asphalt

which is present in the dissolved state. This mere trace of asphalt makes raw

sulfur difficult to burn on a large scale. Air oxidation at ordinary,

temperature is detectable only after period of months. Moisture in the air

assists this slow rusting process.

Refined sulfur is produced by distillation. The purist is obtained conditions

that cause the sulfur to condense directly to the solid state, i.e., the

sulfur is sublimed. The product, called flowers of sulfur, when freshly

prepared has an average purity of 100.0% sulfur. Even when both grades of

sulfur are pulverized to the same degree of fineness, flowers of sulfur

oxidize more rapidly because its surface is cleaner.

12

Polythionic Acid, the "Trigger"

Air oxidation probably produces sulfurous acid on the surface of sulfur, but

this acid has not been detected (3) because, as H. Debus showed, sulfurous

acid reacts quickly with sulfur to form polythionic acids beginning with

trithionic acid, H2S306. The latter adds sulfur atoms successively to form

tetra- and penta- thionic acids. These acids, particularly pentathionic acid

(5), are responsible for the fungicidal value of dusting sulfurs. Aqueous

polythionic acids accumulate until the concentration reaches a limit (6)

where evaporation or a temperature rise will cause partial decomposition

according to the equation:

H2S3O6 = H2SO4 + S02 + (n - 2) S

The reaction is irreversible, but loss of polythionic acids becomes repaired

by air oxidation of sulfur when the temperature subsides. Reaction (1) is

significant in that a sudden increase in temperature can, cause a significant

amount of sulfur dioxide to be formed, not by direct oxidation of sulfur, but

by decomposition of a concentrated solution of polythionic acids. This event,

however, must await the formation of a concentrated solution of these acids.

Reaction (1) is responsible also for the accumulation of sulfuric acid on

sulfur.The sulfuric acid, being hygroscopic, favors additional production of

polythionic acids. By capillary action, sulfuric acid coats the surface of

chlorate and produces chloric acid. Although dilute chloric acid at ambient

temperature is a very weak oxidizing agent, its presence has given rise to

the theory that chloric acid is the primary cause of sulfur chlorate

instability. Sulfur dioxide will react directly with moist chlorate to

produce chlorine dioxide.

S02 + 2KC103 = 2CIO2 + K2SO4 (2)

Chlorine dioxide immediately attacks, sulfur, the chief reaction being,

2CIO2 + 4S = 2SO2. + S2Cl2 (3)

Expressing reactions (2.) and (3) as one reaction.

S02 + 2KClO3 + 4S = 2SO2 + S2Cl2 + K2S04 (4)

Reaction (4) is a chain reaction because more sulfur dioxide is produced than

is consumed. Initiation of reaction (4) requires an extraneous source of

sulfur dioxide. This trigger is cocked by the growth of polythionic acids on

the sulfur, and is pulled" when the heat from friction, impact, sunshine,

the like is sufficient to release a threshold amount of sulfur dioxide from

the "reservoir" of polythionic acids. Heat from reaction (4) quickly ignites

a portion of the mixture, and, if the gases produced cannot escape readily,

the mixture will explode.

Popular formulas for preparing sulfur-chlorate mixtures generally specify

more sulfur than can be oxidized by the chlorate to sulfur trioxide. The

reasons for this are not pertinent to this subject, but it is important to

note that the excess sulfur increases the instability of the mixture by

favoring formation of a greater amount of polythionic acids.

13

This trigger" theory was capable of explaining some previously baffling

industrial accident conditions, but it needed experimental confirmation. It

predicted that a chlorate mixture prepared with an oxidation resistant crude

sulfur would be more stable than one prepared with flowers of sulfur.

Comparative tests were made using ignition temperature as an index of

stability.

Experiment A: 2 g of flowers of sulfur, 4 g of reagent grade chlorate, and 4

g of cleaned and dried sand were intermingled on unglazed paper with a metal

spatula; 1 ml of water was added dropwise, and the mixing was continued. The

product was pressed lightly into a thin open-ended cardboard tube made from a

paper match-cover after the striker strip had been cut off. The tube was laid

on an asbestos board in an empty ventilated hood and was heated at

approximately 1oC temperature rise per minute by a heat lamp suspended above

the tube. The temperature was measured with a thermocouple inserted to the

center' of the mixture. Ignition temperatures on repeat experiments ranged

from 82 to 91oC, and averaged 85oC.

Safety precautions that were designed into the above experiment include

mixing the powders with a metal spatula and the use of unglazed paper to

reduce accumulation of static charges. The powder was dampened primarily to

give it sufficient cohesion to remain in the cardboard tube, but the dampness

no doubt helped to suppress static charges. The striker strip was removed

from the match-cover because it contains a sulfide of phosphorus which might

ignite the mixture prematurely by contact with stray chlorate. Porosity,

contributed by sand, and the short open-ended tube all owed easy escape of

gases, thereby reducing the probability of an explosion. Both ends of the

tube were left open to reduce fire hazard by canceling rocket effects when

the mixture ignited. Fire hazard was further reduced by the asbestos board

and by the emptiness of the hood.

Experiment B: Mixtures similar to those in Experiment A were prepared with

crude sulfur that had been pulverized until the particles had a mass median

diameter of 44 microns, thereby approximating the particle size of flowers of

sulfur. These mixtures ignited, sharply at 124oC. This temperature is above

the melting point sulfur and indicates that ignition may have been initiated

by sulfur dioxide produced by air oxidation of hot sulfur vapor.

Experiments A and B definitely demonstrated the predicated greater stability

of the crude sulfur mix. However, the chloric acid theory could predict that

the greater sulfuric acid content of the flowers of sulfur, instead of the

polythionic acids, would cause the lower ignition temperature. As a matter of

fact, the flowers of sulfur contained 0.02% "acidity" calculated as sulfuric

acid. The acidity of the crude sulfur was detectable but was too small to

titrate.

As a test of the "chloric acid" theory, Experiment A was repeated using

flowers of sulfur dampened with sufficient 0.2 N H2SO4 to give it an acidity

value of 0.50%. When this highly acidified sulfur was mixed with chlorate, an

abnormal amount of chloric acid must have been formed. In spite of this

excess, the ignition temperatures averaged only 87oC in close agreement with

Experiment A. These results dismiss the "chloric acid" theory as a primary

explanation of instability.

14

Final confirmation that sulfur dioxide triggers the ignition was obtained by

repeating Experiment A, but. instead of heating the mixture, a long capillary

glass tube containing sulfur dioxide flowing at the rate of 0.3 cc per second

was thrust into the mixture. Ignition occurred almost as quickly as though

the flame of match had been applied.

Sulfur--chlorate typifies many fuel-chlorate mixtures. Metallic sulfides and

polysufides behave qualitatively like sulfur. Phosphorus cannot yield sulfur

dioxide, but at room temperature it evolves reducing vapors of phosphorus

oxide and possibly some elemental phosphorus which react so energetically

with chlorate that an explosion usually occurs before mixing can be

accomplished.

Carbon disulfide, rosin, turpentine, thiocyanates, aldehydes, sugars, tannin,

and numerous other materials that form volatile reducing agents on heating,

contribute instability to chlorate mixtures. Powdered metals such as oily

aluminum, zinc, and magnesium are sometimes used with or without other fuels

in chlorate mixture. These metals are corroded by chlorate. Their chlorates

are hygroscopic and decompose at relatively low temperatures. The high heats

of oxidation of these metals could cause local temperatures sufficiently high

to ignite the mixture. No wonder such concoctions are unpredictable in

stability.

Much of the unsavory reputation assigned to chlorate should be reassigned to

those who have selected the fuels. Apparently availability and cheapness,

instead of chemistry, have dictated the choice of fuels. Any fuel that is

subject to air oxidation at ordinary temperature, or forms an unstable

chlorate, or produces an easily oxidizable vapor below 100oC, or reacts with

chlorate below 150oC should be excluded. Starch (7) is a fuel that survives

these requirements.

Literature Cited

(1) BURNS, C., J. CHEM. EDUC., 33, 308 (1956).

(2) BROWN, F. E., AND WHITE, W. C. 0., Proc. Iowa .Acad Sci., 31,291(1924).

(3) MELLOR, J. W., "Comprehensive Treatise on Inorganic and Physical

Chemistry," Longmans, Green &, Co., Inc., London, 1947, Vol. 10, pg. S8.

(4) DEBS. H., Ann.. 244, 76 (1888),

(5) YOUNG, H.C. AND WILLIAMS ROBERT, Science, 67, 19 (1928)

(6) MELLOR, J.W. "Modern Inorganic Chemistry," Longmans, Green & Co., Inc.,

London, 1916, p. 458; EPHRAIM, FRITZ, "Inorganic, Chemistry," Gurney and

Jackson, London, 1926, p, 463.

(7) TANNER, H.G. U.S Patnet 1,966,652 (1934)

15

The main highlighted information from the study

Lets point out some important information that needs to be taken into account:

1. Polythionic Acid, the "Trigger"

2. Air oxidation probably produces sulfurous acid on the surface of sulfur, but this acid has not been detected (3) because, as H. Debus

showed, sulfurous acid reacts quickly with sulfur to form polythionic

acids

3. Aqueous polythionic acids accumulate until the concentration reaches a limit (6) where evaporation or a temperature rise will cause partial

decomposition

4. sudden increase in temperature can, cause a significant amount of sulfur dioxide to be formed, not by direct oxidation of sulfur, but by

decomposition of a concentrated solution of polythionic acids. This

event, however, must await the formation of a concentrated solution of

these acids.

5. This trigger is cocked by the growth of polythionic acids on the sulfur, and is pulled" when the heat from friction, impact, sunshine,

the like is sufficient to release a threshold amount of sulfur dioxide

from the "reservoir" of polythionic acids. Heat from reaction (4)

quickly ignites a portion of the mixture

6. As a test of the "chloric acid" theory, Experiment A was repeated using flowers of sulfur dampened with sufficient 0.2 N H2SO4 to give it an

acidity value of 0.50%. When this highly acidified sulfur was mixed

with chlorate, an abnormal amount of chloric acid must have been

formed. In spite of this excess, the ignition temperatures averaged

only 87oC in close agreement with Experiment A. These results dismiss

the "chloric acid" theory as a primary explanation of instability.

7. Final confirmation that sulfur dioxide triggers the ignition was obtained by repeating Experiment A, but. instead of heating the

mixture, a long capillary glass tube containing sulfur dioxide flowing

at the rate of 0.3 cc per second was thrust into the mixture. Ignition

occurred almost as quickly as though the flame of match had been

applied.

16

The Polythionic acid Trigger mechanism:

Based on studies conducted by Herbert G. Tenner; February

Sulfur; S

Subjected to air oxidation producing Sulfurous acid

Sulfurous acid + Sulfur Polythionic acid

Quick reaction as according H. Debus

If accumulated and form concentrated Polythionic acids

Concentrated Polythionic acids

Reservoir

+ Heat decompose into: Sulfuric acid + Sulfur dioxide

Sulfuric acid; H2SO4

Favors the production of more Polythionic acid

Sulfur dioxide; SO2

Accumulates

Polythionic acid

Accumulation reservoir

Potassium chlorates; KClO3

Heat released

Heat supplied

Heat builds up

Ignites all sensitive mixtures

Potassium sulfate; K2SO4

Sulfur dichloride;

S2Cl2

Sulfur dioxide; SO2

External source

Sulfur dioxide; SO2

High acidity level Sulfur; S

External source

Sulfuric acid; H2SO4

Potassium chlorate + acidified Sulfur ignition temperature in range of Experiment A

= no changes in increasing ignition temperature

Note: (Heat is supplied)

Possibilities *on my opinion, it might be

Sulfuric acid reacts with Chlorate to produce Chloric acid however nothing significant had happen

Sulfuric acid did not react with Chlorate to form Chloric acid because favor formation on Polythionic acid possibly when reacted with Sulfur *Quick reaction

Note: The Chlorate-Sulfur mix + Sulfuric acid, it wasnt mentioned that it spontaneously ignited; instead the experiment continues

The Chloric acid Theory dismissed as primary explanation of instability

17

Discussion of the Trigger mechanism:

The main cause of self-ignition is due to the presence of Sulfur dioxide that reacts with Potassium Chlorate which will cause a repetitive chain reaction to cause heat buildup, ultimately cause the ignition.

However, it wont initiate unless the concentrated Polythionic acid is supplied with heat that promote decomposition to Sulfur dioxide.

Other notable information:

The Chlorate-Sulfur mix would not detonate or ignite by itself if mixed.

Presence of Sulfur dioxide initiate heat buildup; thus cause ignition.

It is highly sensitive, but not ignited unless external heat is in contact.

The Chloric Theory is dismissed.

To initiate the sequence, it requires the Sulfur that oxidized to Sulfurous acid.

The Sulfurous acid produced; favor the production of Polythionic acid a quick reaction; rather than reacting directly with Chlorates to form Chloric acid.

The accumulation of Polythionic acid cause the mix to Sour as the acid concentrated.

The Polythionic acid must be concentrated enough first before able to decompose.

Concentrated Polythionic acid itself did not cause the ignition.

The concentrated Polythionic acid did not decompose into Sulfuric acid and Sulfur dioxide unless heat is applied.

Sulfur dioxide react with Chlorates and gives off heat that ultimately cause ignition.

In highly acidic condition with introducing of Sulfuric acid did not cause the mix to ignite on contact.

Sulfuric acid added seems not to react with Chlorate to gives off Chloric acid, or if the Chloric acid was formed; it did not cause the Chlorate-Sulfur mix to ignite. However, it might be different if reacted with the third compound, namely other fuel such as sugar or charcoal which will ignite the mixtures.

The key to prevent self-ignition:

Prevent the presence of Sulfur dioxide.

Prevent the air oxidation of Sulfur to Sulfurous acid.

Prevent Sulfurous acid to form Polythionic acid to concentrate.

Prevent unnecessary heat that will cause it to ignite.

Prevent from in contact with any external source of acids.

Conclusion: Any mixtures containing Chlorate and Sulfur is highly sensitive to heat, and any other source of ignition; prior to long storage, some oxidized Sulfur will cause Polythionic acid to accumulate and went Sour and might lower its performance and or disrupt with other mixed compounds.

Question:

Then, how about the tragic accident in the past happens regarding the Chlorate-Sulfur mixtures? Does that not clear to explain about the mix in which it is highly unstable and prior to self-ignition? Therefore, the question back to the point; what cause the ignition?

18

Other question rise, and how about if Sulfur air-oxidized in Nitrate-Sulfur Black Powder:

How exactly solid Sulfur oxidized in air or in moisture as the Sulfur itself generally Hydrophobic (not dissolved in water)?

In the process of making Nitrate Black Powder, moisture or water is directly introduced. Will this water oxidize Sulfur to Sulfurous acid? And will Sulfurous acid react with Potassium Nitrate to produce Nitric acid in it; thus cause it to ignite?

It is most likely that the oxidized Sulfur in Nitrate-Sulfur mix will undergo the accumulation of Polythionic acid to concentrate too. This will be just the same.

If this were true, then if Sulfur dioxide in contact with Nitrate-Sulfur; is this reaction viable? *which is most likely not happen in Nitrate Black Powder? SO2 + 2KNO3 2NO2 + K2SO4 2NO2 + 4S 2SO2 + S2N2 Overall: SO2 + 2KNO3 + 4S 2SO2 + S2N2 Thus, the mechanism of Sulfur Souring or the accumulation of concentered Polythionic acid in Nitrate also can cause ignition.

And we might conclude that, any mixtures or composition that use Sulfur in it with or without any oxidizer; the Sulfur capable to self Souring or the accumulation of concentered Polythionic acid that can cause further potential ignition.

*S2N2 or Disulfur dinitrite is decomposing explosively above 30oC which will definitely cause the mix to

ignite. Explosively of course generate massive heat in general; at insane low temperature above 30oC

Therefore, Nitrate-Sulfur mix possesses the same degree of danger as Chlorate-Sulfur mix, the difference is; Nitrate-Sulfur mix is less sensitive than that of Chlorate-Sulfur mix. Plus, Sodium Chlorate is known to be more hygroscopic than other oxidizer.

Possible explanation and more questions arise.

Maybe in Black Powder, the properties of charcoal fuel itself which is slight alkaline act as anti-acid. This would be desirable to reduce the formation of Sulfurous acid to Polythionic acid until at some point.

In addition, this would produce another Sulfur-based chemical derived. Will this possibly impart the Black Powder performance? Or will it enhance further? Or will it cause to be unstable? Or just does not affect the powder performance at all?

For this, we might need to check what would be the source of its alkalinity and possible product from the reaction. Will it gives off or absorb heat during its formation? If sufficient heat is liberated, this would be catastrophic. And the Black Powder itself is not stable, even from a Nitrate based.

However, in history; Black Powder was been used worldwide in a very long time history. If the concentrated Polythionic acid formation is unstoppable, the Black Powder would turn wet and Sour at significant speed. This lead the powder to have a short shelf life for storage and poor performance; which is might not true as Black Powder have a good shelf life.

More and more question arise, hence, this subject of Chlorate-Sulfur-fuel issue need further scientific study with solid explanations. The original question is; can Chlorate-Sulfur-charcoal be made into a viable Black Powder? Maybe some Oxidizer-Sulfur-fuel composition is stable, but might not in Chlorate; but how and why? The question is redundant. Back in the history of Chlorate Black Powder which end up in tragedy, same question arise. But today in modern world, sophisticated scientific research can be done. This might prove something valuable in world of pyrotechnic.

*However, this is just an interpretation made by totally unqualified person in the field of pyrotechnic and or any related; which is me. Therefore, this information cannot be regard as true, as the whole insight might prove to be wrong.

19

Getting started, getting the right materials and explanations

In a normal peaceful everyday life, one can purchase the materials locally. Just in case to avoid

unnecessary attention that might get you in trouble, one should not purchase all the three materials in

bulk in single store or acting suspiciously. Its obvious and the supplier would know what you are trying

to do with all those things. Misuse of Chlorate can be charged guilty in certain country. Its printed on

the label clearly. A wise step is that purchase the materials individually in multiple different store. Lets

say purchase Chlorate weed killer at Store A. Then, go for another Store B for Sulfur. For charcoal,

generally everyone buy them. So, this one shouldnt be a problem. Nevertheless, just purchase all the

required materials in one go. You are the customer. They wont say anything even they knew what

youre trying to do.

Different story if in the state of chaos, war and emergency in contrast you might not need the highly

sensitive Chlorate Black Powder. A military storage bunker would be like a gold mine. Gather your

comrades and just raid anything that necessary ammunition, firearms, explosives and supplies. Just

make sure you and your group prepared for the escape route and have the stash house ready and big

enough for the haul. Its seems like easier said than done (Are you serious?!) In addition to that, use the

Chlorate to make high explosive instead.

The best place to find all the materials in one go without any problem would be from the pyrotechnic

hobby store. One might also consider the online services. Everything that ones might need is there.

Even Potassium or Sodium nitrate should be available. Thus, please dont even bother on making the

dangerous Chlorate Black Powder. However, if one still insist and curious to test please be my guest

although the risk is all yours. The method utilized here also can be used to produce a good useable

Nitrates Black Powder but not be the best method around.

The Sodium chlorate

One can obtain Sodium chlorate from the hardware store under the name of weed killer. Or maybe one

can also find it at stores that deal with farming supplies. Generally it comes in 1kg per pack. Its primary

usage in farming is an additive or a booster for the herbicides.

Check on its label for purity percentage. Some Chlorate weed killer has fire depressant in it that will

impart the burning rates. 90%+ should be a good enough. However I found one with 99% purity with 1%

inert impurity as the package states on the label. If one cannot find any that 89%+ pure. One would

consider to re-crystal the Chlorate salts. Otherwise, another alternative is to construct the Chlorate cells.

But be sure to get the purest as possible as making manually tend to have high Chlorides impurity in

which Chlorides in Chlorates has shown to increase the sensitivity with combustible mix.

Still, purchase the Chlorate would be a better option. Please not to forget to check on the safety

handling printed on the package label.

Here I use 99% purity Sodium chlorate as stated on the package not Potassium chlorate. The two

differences might come into some valuable conclusion out of my known knowledge. Nevertheless,

obtain the purest possible to avoid high Chlorides content contamination.

20

Notes and known issues:

By nature Sodium chlorate is hygroscopic. Thus, it tends to absorb moisture from the surrounding.

Therefore, keep all the Sodium chlorate based materials in airtight container and store in the dry, cool

place and out of sunlight reach.

The Chlorate salt itself is a potential poisonous. Phytotoxic to plants and kills them. It is non-selective

herbicides thus will harm the surrounding vegetation and plants. Even on the test site where the device

exploded. The surrounding radius of the exploded individual device known to cause the vegetation and

plants to wither and literally die which can be seen clearly on the next day. In additional to that, a

livestock that ate the vegetation might suffer from chlorate poisoning.

Yet, no known serious health issue when Chlorate solution and its salt to cause specific symptom on the

skin surface for a momentary being. But its better to prevent with direct contact. However, there might

be rashes or irritation when the Chlorate dust spread on the skin if prolonged un-washed. When

Chlorate taken orally or internally, Chlorate poisoning highly possible to occur. Therefore, it is vital to

acquire info about Sodium chlorate on the net or other source before proceeding. And also, please read

the warning and other info printed on the purchased Sodium chlorate pack.

After working with it, there might have too much chlorate dust around. Cleanse yourself by shower and

change your cloth. Be sure not to inhale the Chlorate dust and or any dust while working. Wearing dust

mask is highly recommended. However once done be sure to wash the clothing and the dust mask as if

the Chlorate is presence on the clothing and once it dried can be potential fire hazard when in contact to

a heat source.

Warning: Some Chlorate mix cause significant noticeable heat buildup. Once I tried adding Sodium

chlorate into commercial Flash powder that I took from firecracker. The powder mix liberates significant

noticeable heat. Thus, avoid such mix. Another study conducted by scientist show that, the presence of

certain types of Copper compounds as impurity for a Chlorate mix is highly unstable that can cause auto-

detonation after a few minutes it was mixed; a danger that have far greater chances to happen than

Chlorate-Sulfur mix. The experiment was repeated and shows the same results. Another incompatibility

is that Chlorate mix with Ammonium based compound. As such Chlorates with Ammonium nitrate which

could result in formation of unstable explosive known as Ammonium chlorate. Therefore, avoid Copper

and Ammonium for Chlorate mix.

21

The Charcoal

One can might find charcoal at general store, hardware stores, supermarket and even at hypermarket.

However, if quality powder you are trying to produce, it is cheaper to make the charcoal yourself. A

good selection is a softwood types, have low ash contents and the powdered charcoal can be burn easily

and used up pretty fast. Otherwise, one might find for the softwood Willow charcoal that is used for art

but will end up being expensive. The activated-charcoal might not be a good choice plus its quite

expensive I suppose and same goes for the pharmacy grade charcoal.

The abundant and cheap charcoal would be the BBQ charcoal briquettes. It works but not the best in

fact its a worst choice for Black Powder. Check the label whether additives is added or not. Such as

added with quickening agent, petroleum based products, suspicious binder and other impurity should

be avoided. Starch binder type might be still ok although it should not supposed to have for Black

Powder making. Some special a little more cost charcoal for grilling might contain un-charred wood to

meet for their specs for special barbequing. This also should be avoided. Alas, were in desperate

situation here, dont have enough time to char a wood. Just take it. Take the cheapest one that with no

additives is preferable.

If possible, look for air-float charcoal. Its better than the BBQ charcoal briquettes but still might not be

the best as one might not know of what kinds of wood it is used. Nevertheless, it will work nicely plus it

is already in a nice powder form.

For further information regarding on charcoal selection again I suggest the Black Powder Manufacturing,

Testing & Optimizing by Ian Von Maltitz. Charcoal selection is discussed extensively as because it is the

most important parts for producing a good useable Black Powder. It also includes list of various specific

species wood types of charcoal used and the resulting performance it given.

22

Sulfur

Sulfur also can be purchased at the hardware store. Other might found one at gardening stores and or

also at the stores that deal with farming supplies. Generally Sulfur is used to treat the soil. Increase its

acidity while other uses include as fungicide and also used to fend off crawling creatures for camping

usage in which the Sulfur powder is spread around the camp site. Sulfur comes in the form of powder

and chunks.

The powder form is preferable to be chosen because it is already in powder form. If no other option

than chunks, reduce it to powder form. Flour of Sulfur would be good enough but Flower of Sulfur might

be avoided for sensitive mix use. Most Sulfur is pure therefore Sulfur selection would not produce

significant difference in its performance.

I got mine in a kilo of package. It is a nice, uniformly dry and clean powder form. When touch the texture

was like flour completely dry without any slightest moisture. However, Sulfur with moderate and high

acidity level, moisture and gravel or sand or asphalt should be avoided at all cost as for Sulfur-Chlorates

this might end up a disaster. Pure, purified and free from acids Sulfur is the better choice for any pyro

mixes. However, even if it is 100% pure it doesnt mean there is no presence of acids but the least acidic

possible is preferable. Sand, gravel and asphalt impurity will aid the friction further if friction is issued to

the powder made plus the powder performance may decrease in burn rates.

Notes: Once the packs were opened; store them inside an air-tight container, free from moisture and

heat. This comes with a good reasons to prevent the Sulfur from self oxidizes from open air and

potential heating while moisture will aid the undesirable process while in storage.

23

Homemade Chlorate Black Powder process:

BBQ Charcoal

Briquette:

Powdered (mortar pestle)

Sieved (fine)

Stored (air-tight)

Sodium chlorate:

Powdered (blend)

Sieved (fine)

Stored (air-tight)

Sulfur:

Already in fine powdered form

Stored (air-tight)

Mixing container (Plastic)

75:15:10 by weight of main materials, dont mind the lumps

Sealed top, mix intimately slow and gently by turn it around or rotate it sideways.

Fine Sieve (Plastic)

Sieve the mixture (fine)

Crush any lump of remaining materials and force through the sieve

The remaining powder that could not pass, pour directly into the sieve container

Transfer back all the mix into the mixing container

Seal the top; continue mix slowly by turn it around or rotate it sideways until the sieved powder mixture to be evenly homogeneous without any lump presence

Add about 4% by weight of water

Stir evenly using a skewer or wooden rod

Seal the top, mix intimately by slowly rotating around container, and then followed by moderate mixing action (the mix now should be damp but still a little powdery)

Add more 4% by weight of water

Again, stir evenly using a skewer or wooden rod

Seal the top, mix intimately by slowly rotating around container, then followed by moderate mixing action (the mix now should be damp enough, but not wet or watery or not a slurry)

*if the water were excess, add some dry powder or powder dust from batch before of the same proportion ratio formula until achieve the required dampness, continue mix evenly

Mortar and pestle

Damp the interior and top part of the mortar with a little water

Add the mortar with the damp powder mix half or almost half of the mortar capacity

Using pestle, pound and knead the mix gently with moderate force.

Kneading until it becomes a like dough

Using a spoon, flip the dough, pound and knead it again until it become like dough again stop when consistency is achieved

Once done, transfer to the temporary air-tight container storage

Repeat the steps for the remaining damp powder mix

Temporary container (Plastic)

Combine all the hard like dough mix into single dough by press them all together.

The damp mix dough can be stored temporarily until the corning process.

Corning (Outdoor)

Bright; not too hot day and clear sky is preferred for the corning process to facilitate the drying

Take the dough mix and make it into a ball that fit to your palm. *use glove preferred

Run the dough ball onto the sieve of chosen size with a layer of newspaper below for the damp grains to land, spread the grain evenly

Let the grain dry under the hot sun, once in a 10-15 minutes use diaper method to flip the grains for evenly drying, re-spread the grains evenly

Once dried, transfer all the powder to another storage air-tight container for grading

Grains grading

Use stacks of layer of multiple sieves of different pore sizes by positioning the smallest at the bottom, moderate at the middle and largest at the top with another suitable container at the very bottom part to collect remaining dusts.

The larger chunks of grains that did not pass through the top would be crush again gently by breaking them in a tough plastic and sieve again

At different level, different sizes of Chlorate Black Powder were obtained and can be stored in air-tight container until usage.

Remaining dust can be re-use for future batch

24

Notes:

Always follow general safety rules and keep the working place neat and clean.

Prevent and avoid any possible source of ignition at all cost.

Use goggle and mask to prevent dust to get into eyes or respiratory system.

If using plastic ware, be sure to check and remove any possible static charge.

If possible, use porcelain or glass substitutes for plastic.

All the main materials are powdered separately or individually.

Do not powder Chlorate mixed with other ingredient materials, either Chlorate-Sulfur or Chlorate-Charcoal.

Weight the ingredient materials using suitable weighing apparatus, example; electronic kitchen balance. For 100g batch; use 75g of Chlorate, 15g of charcoal and 10g of Sulfur.

Do not overdo the batch, make only adequate batch one at a time.

Be sure to damp or wet the top and interior part of the mortar, also all of the pestle surface.

While pounding and kneading, be focus and do not overdo even they were wet. *I am sure there were once I heard a crackling pop sound when I was accidently pounded the mortar sides.

Be sure the sky clear, bright and warm but not too dry and too hot to conduct the drying.

Do not leave the drying process unattended. Regularly check for every 10-15 minutes interval.

It is highly recommended to wear glove or anything similar to prevent direct contact with the wet mass of powder.

While breaking lager chunks, one can use a pin roller that commonly used for dough making to crush the chunks. Here, using mask is highly recommended as dust will be airborne anywhere. Again, be sure there is no possible source of ignition in the perimeter.

Store the powder grain in air-tight container; if possible do not open the powder container if not necessary to reduce the air contact.

Further possible optimization:

Use better charcoal.

Mill or ball mill the charcoal.

Subjected to high pressure press. *Sounds really dangerous for Chlorate!

Consistence granulation of 4F grade.

Grading the grains

Use better method to incorporating the powder.

25

The makeshift kitchen tissue strip fuse:

The fuse made by this method is the simplest, fastest, least messy and reliable enough for its purpose.

The main drawback is that it is hygroscopic and prolonged exposure to open air should be avoided. The

fuse tend to break if put too much tensile stress on it, slightly moisture and little sugary sticky Chlorate

for handwork to deal with. In which you have to wash your hand after each fuse paper strip preparation.

Its looks like it is very messy and tedious to deal with. However, this is the best which I came up with for

a quick, simple and quite reliable fuse in the time of desperation or just when in need for a fuse.

To prepare this type of fuse a hot bright day and clear sky is preferred for the drying. If not, the fuse

wont dry properly as the nature of Chlorate to absorb moisture from the air and the presence of sugar

will make the drying slower. Preferable time of the day is when around 11.00 A.M when about to get

into afternoon when the sun shines the best.

Materials/Apparatus:

Powdered Sodium Chlorate

Powdered sugar

Kitchen paper towel tissue

Stirrer or a bamboo skewer or any rod non-metal preferred.

Glass cup or porcelain cup or a plastic container (heat resist)

Scoop or a washing powder scoop or any other equivalent for the purposes.

Electric kettle or any to obtain some hot water

Water resistant glove *optional if you dont want to get contact with the solution directly

Air-tight container

Procedure:

1. Boil some water. Meantime, proceed for the next step.

2. Take a container as such a cup and pour in 1 parts of powdered Sodium chlorate and 1 parts of

powdered sugar. And then add up with 2 parts of hot water into the mix.

Note: The hot water was poured into separate container of cup before take it using the scoop

and introduced it to the mix. Or just use different scoop of equivalent size for each different

task. We dont want to contaminate the hot water from the kettle directly. Use common sense.

3. Stir the mix until all of the powdered chemicals to be dissolved in the solution. If all not just yet

to dissolve wait 1-2minutes, then continue stirring. It might not all to be dissolved as the

solution already saturated.

4. Take the solution in the container outside, fold the kitchen tissue into a rectangular strip and dip

into the solution.

5. The wet strip of kitchen tissue with the solution is then let dry under hot bright sun. For faster

drying, it is better to dry it on a net like surface or if it is drying on a flat surface, after a while

should flip the tissue once in a while for equal and faster drying.

6. Repeat the step for remaining solution left with another folded kitchen tissue, dip and dry.

7. Once all the tissue has dried, take it and put it in the air-tight container and store it in the cool

and dry place. This is your primary fuse storage.

26

How to use:

1. Take out the tissue strip, using a scissor, cut it into a rectangular shape smaller strip with

desired length. Comply with its width to alter its diameter thickness. If ones need multiple

number of fuse with the same length and thickness, cut multiple strip of same length and

width. And store all the smaller pieces in another smaller air-tight container. This is your

secondary fuse storage. Store back the remaining larger unused portion into your primary

fuse storage.

Note: Too small diameter thickness would result a dud fuse. Too big, it will be a waste and

might not fit to the pass fire hole of your device.

2. When in need a fuse, simply take out one of the strip from your secondary container and

roll it into a fuse by folding a little portion at the end of the strip and roll it into a fuse.

Note: There is no specific procedure for this, but the idea is that just make a roll of fuse from

the smaller cut strip.

3. The fuse is now ready to be used and insert to the device pass fire hole.

Additional notes:

As mentioned earlier in this section, the fuse itself is hygroscopic. After a while exposed on the open air,

it tends to wet as it absorb moisture in the air. Therefore, once made into a roll of fuse, have to use it

immediately or store it back into the air-tight container.

Always check the burn rates of your fuse. Example, take one of the rolled fuse and cut into lets say 2

inch length. Take timer, start the timer as you lit the fuse, stop the timer once the 2 inch of fuse done

burning. Take the time lets say it burns for 12 seconds for the whole 2 inch of it. Thus 12 seconds

divided with 2 inch we get 6 seconds per inch.

Warning: Do not use another hazard potential method for drying. As I experienced before, I tried to dry

it in an electric oven for the lowest temperature possible. The results were tragic. I dont know if other

method as such using a hair dryer or high watt orange bulb would quicken the drying without cause it to

ignite. But I think drying it outside would be a better option. However, ones can always experiment

them. Safety first and use your common sense.

Notes:

Before put into use for ignition, take some other piece of the fuse and ignite it. If it can burn at steady rate, the fuse can be used. If not, avoid at all cost and dry them again under the sun.

The fuse has high probability to be dud and moist at high humidity atmosphere due to the nature of the oxidizer used in making. Use less hygroscopic oxidizer if possible.

Do not continue to use the same type of the fuse if its dud. Misfire or accidently ignition can occur.

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Chlorate-Sulfur mix and Chlorate Black Powder decent sensitivity test

Accident did occur once in my experience while trying to re-drying the chlorate Black Powder for the 2nd

time under the bright hot sun, it self-ignite and poofff, 100g of it turned into smoke in a second. Good

thing I wasnt nearby. At first I suppose it may because the powder was too dry with too many Sulfur

dust plus high surrounding temperature under the hot bright sun. The Sulfur roles to reduce the ignition

temperature make it highly combustible in elevated surrounding temperature. Plus, it is mixed with

Chlorates. But I think thats not the real cause. Its probably because of the static electric charge that

might be presence on the surface of the drying plastic pan. On one occasion I did notice the static charge

on the plastic pan that actually makes some of the powder attached to the surface. According to the

code of practice for the Prevention of Sulfur Fires and Explosion, June 1993; it states that Sulfur has

excellent electrical insulation properties and under the right condition will readily pickup static

electricity which if discharged can results in ignition. Therefore, it can be concluded that the static

charge taken up by the Sulfur in the Chlorate Black Powder dust somehow sparked and ignite the whole

batch of highly heat sensitive Chlorate Black Powder under the bright hot sun.

From that day, I never use plastic pan to dry the powder instead I am using old newspaper. Thus, two

things should be taken into account. One, do not let the drying too long unattended under the bright

hot sun. And two, careful to not use a plastic-ware that has high affinity to build up static charge and

always check them before use. This was made with the older method. However newer method yield less

powder dust. Less dust doesnt mean there is no dust.

Here the series of test were attempted by means of technically not complete and detail enough to be

considered as scientific and accurate test due to the lack of proper instrumentation and methodology

for the intentional purpose of testing. However, I hope these makeshift series of test will be useful

somehow for further insight and provide general picture on how sensitive this mix is.

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The series of sensitivity test:

Info said Chlorate-Sulfur mix is highly sensitive to heat, sparks and impact. Some said Black Powder also

sensitive to static electric and the risk of self-ignition. They claim that it is so sensitive just mixing

Chlorate with Sulfur would result it to cause fire. They said if it has to be mix, use diaper method to mix

it homogeneously. But experiment show that, it is not soo true for Chlorate-Sulfur as I tested. Such

sensitivity may be true for Chlorate-Phosphorus mix or the notably the Armstrongs Mix. Instead; an

explosion is what you get, than just an instantaneous fire. The Armstrongs mix is capable to burn so fast

to be called detonation on its own, even on the open space. However, I have never tried experimenting

with the Armstrongs mix just yet. I believe some other enthusiast had already done that and tell the

tale.

Chlorate-Sulfur sensitivity test

I tried to mix the Chlorate Black Powder in 75:15:10 dry mixes all the powdered materials in a common

plastic container that commonly used for microwave heating. To make it homogeneous, I shake turn it

around and let the powder mix evenly slowly. Take another container, and pour a small amount of

mixed powder of around 2-3 spoon into it. Then, I shake it moderately. Nothing happen. I tried to shake

it for a little while longer moderately and still nothing happen. But of course, if it poses that danger of

self-ignite, I would not continue to shake it so vigorous like a madman until it catches fire on its own.

But, the result show that the mix did not ignite if shaken at such moderate force as the claim just mixing

it could start a fire. Not just yet I suppose?

Dry impact test

This time I used 50:50 mixes of Chlorate and Sulfur the most sensitive mix possible. Mix it slowly as

before in the plastic container; take a very small pinch of the powder onto a piece of metal sheet. I took

the hammer, and hammer it down. One hit, with slow impact. Nope, it wasnt igniting. After a few

moderate hit with hammer, bang! It actually explodes with loud bang. I can feel the hammer to kick

back by the exploding powder. It bangs so loud that my ears rings for several seconds and can feel the

dizziness. Therefore, the conclusion is it is positive that the mix is impact sensitive.

How it might works? From my opinion the highly sensitive powder become compressed and at the same

moment; from the hammer-steel plate impact generate sufficiently enough heat and energy for the

composition to heat up cause it to auto-ignition and thus exploded.

In addition, it is best to assume that the Black Powder is also friction sensitive. When storing or loading

the powder into any container that required being screw, twisting or have threaded lines is be sure to

clean the threaded lines as such wipe with damp tissue or clean the lines using brush and or tooth brush

before capping.

For Black Powder, one would not simply hit the powder with hammer at huge amount right? Or use such

tremendous force using metal ram rod to ram and pound powder into a casing? By the way, is it that

necessary? The grains size of Black Powder play important role for a fast powder thus pack it tightly is

not necessary. Unless one is trying to make a rocket in which this powder is obviously not suitable for

the job. So, use common sense or better avoid. If such loading is needed, use non-metal tooling and

always apply pressure gently, slowly and moderately. Never mill all the three main materials dry

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especially with Chlorates and Sulfur. If one needs it to be milled or ball milled, mill them separately

individually.

Note: wet or damp Chlorate Black Powder doesnt mean that it could not spontaneously ignite.

Sufficient impact, shock, friction, sparks and heat will cause it to catch fire.

Spark sensitivity test

It seems that I learn it on a hard way. For the test, I need a reliable sparks source. I use the used empty

common gas lighter. It is the one with wheel that produce sparks. I took outside some of the properly

made Chlorate Black Powder and pour small amount of it onto a brick. As I assume small amount

wouldnt produce considerable flash when if it ignited. I used lighter sparks to try to ignite it.

I knew I shouldnt use the sparks so close, as I think small amount wont hurt much. Okay here we go.

One, two poof! It flashes directly to my fingers. It flashes so fast that I could not take my hand back at

that instant. The flash was so intense and burns my fingers. Dang! My common sense fails me! The

burning sensation was excruciating and I have to put my fingers in cold icy water to reduce the pain. The

pain resides after around a few couple of hours and of course it leaves marks. But it will be healed later

and most marks will disappear after regenerating. The conclusion, yes it is highly spark sensitive.

How sensitive is that highly sensitive? Take the dead, empty gas wheel spark lighter; put your finger

directly on the spot and snap the wheel to produce the sparks. Feel the heat? Its almost undetectable.

So to put into simpler example, the Chlorate Black Powder spark sensitivity is like a highly flammable gas

instead it is in solid form.

However, the actual sparking mechanism might be different than that of direct fire and heating. The

question is; how does sparks work exactly to ignite them? Is it due to instant increase of high

temperature spiking in less than milliseconds?

Static electric charge sensitivity test

I could not deploy a precise experimentation for it. As Black Powder was generally sensitive to static

electric sparks therefore I just assume that Chlorate Black Powder would be highly sensitive to static

charge. Since static charge could not be seen directly, precaution should be taken at utmost priority.

There is also an issue of some tooling and even cloth would generate static electric by friction. As such

some plastic containers, plastic bags, PVC made equipment and also synthetic clothing. Therefore, if

about to use plastic containers, check for the static electric or rub a little the surface before using. Also, I

think there is anti-static electric spray sold somewhere on the market. That would be a good initiative.

However do not forget to keep the working place clean and free from Chlorate, Charcoal, Sulfur and

Black Powder dust as possible and always check for static charge on a possible instrument that might

build up static charge especially plastics and PVC before using them.

If using the piezo-electric ignition type it did not ignite. I did test with it before and saw the sparks go

through the Black Powder in between the source and its end. But maybe I did not test it hard enough

properly. Just be safe and assume that static electric sparks and the piezo-electric can cause ignition

thus avoid them at all cost. Note; if piezo-electric actually did ignite them, this source of ignition would

be very valuable.

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I think there were once that I highly suspect it might be that the static electric charge is the cause for the

sudden self-ignition of the Chlorate Black Powder while drying under the hot sun using plastic pan as I

stated before at the above section. And I am sure somewhere out there some Black Powder enthusiast

actually did encounter with this kind of unfortunate static charge phenomenon.

However to deal with this static charge, in the book Guerillas Arsenal by David Harber, the author

recommended to ground oneself by using the grounding wire while loading any static sensitive explosive

filler into the device. It is a length of insulated copper wire in which at one end is looped around one

wrist, and the other end is attached to the grounded object. With this, it will prevent the static charge

buildup. There is also a commercial variant for a personal grounding wire for the use of worker that

works with delicate electronic computer components. Or other approach, wear only cotton cloth while

working.

Splinter ember heat test

Well, in common sense of course it will ignite. But how low the heat required to start the ignition?

Again, took some of the properly made powder outside. I lit a bamboo skewer splinter then let the fire

reside until it left with only white ashes with no glowing amber seen directly *some ember is lit under

the white ashes as I assume. I poke it to the powder and poof! It ignites. Even a very little source of

ember could ignite it. Thus, the conclusion is that the powder is highly sensitive to heat. Therefore, dont

even try to heat the powder! Making the Chlorate Black Powder in melting method is absolutely no. And

dont even think to test or dry the powder in oven with even the lightest temperature.

In proper instrumentation I assume, the powder would be placed in a closed condition where the

surrounding temperature elevate in slow progression. Maybe like 10oC per minutes? And record on

what temperature the powder ignites. For further accuracy it would be repeated several times. This will

show the true ignition temperature of the powder.

Storage lifetime

I store the powder I made into several small plastic bottles and some in small medicinal brown tinted

glass bottles. In a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight reach. All of the container used to store the

powder must be air-tight container to prevent moisture and the container must be free from static

electric. I took some sample and pour it into a small glass transparent glass vial. And put it on the shelf

out of direct sun light. It stays there for a couple of years with dust and some spider web presence. It

still in intact. I took some of the powder and ignite it. It still works. There were once I read an article on

storing homemade Black Powder. One would store it wet in an air-tight container. Only corning and dry

them when needed. Other stores their dried puck or dried block of Black Powder in an air-tight

container and only corning them when needed. Of course, keep away from direct sunlight, heat, impact,

friction, static charge, sparks, acids and any source of possible fire.

*Medicinal brown tinted glass bottle would be a bad idea for storage if it went wrong somehow, glass

shards will be threw in every directions. The only bright side it is UV-protected, air tight and less likely

for the static charge buildup.

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Overall Conclusion:

Overall, from the series of test it can be concluded that the Chlorate Black Powder is highly sensitive to

heat, impact, friction, static charge, sparks and pre-assumedly acids but it seems it can be stored for

around couple of years and still works but performance might degrade.

However one could mix the powder but do not overdo it as such shake or roll it so vigorous which is not

necessarily needed. Do it gently and keep away from any possible ignition source while handling the

powder. Despite the violent power it has, it is highly sensitive to compensate and in presence of

moisture, prolonged storage will cause it to sour or acid build up; thus prolonged storage is not

recommended and make when only needed, therefore use them in near time. Maybe this is the main

reasons why Chlorate-Sulfur is highly not recommended as it is unstable and unpredictable in storage,

plus the nature of Sodium Chlorate is highly hygroscopic. I wonder if Potassium chlorate is used instead,

because Potassium chlorate is less hygroscopic.

These are from my point of view. Therefore, it would be a different result if a proper test is conducted

under proper conditions and instrumentation as scientist usually does for the test. Nevertheless, the

source of danger should not be pointed solely because of its sensitivity and due to the Chlorate-Sulfur

mix. The whole process of making Black Powder is a dangerous business. If one is about to make their

own Black Powder, they should notice the danger beforehand on what they are dealing with.

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The typical burn rate test

Simple method test to determine the rate of burning of a Black Powder is to place them in a line of that evenly contained them. However, this kind of test does not indicate the true potential of the powder burn rate because it has to be confined than just an open burning. And this kind of test is not accurate enough as the test should be exactly the same as in the first it was ignited. Repeated test of the same volume, same weight and the same start timing should be taken into priority to imitate as the same as the first. Repeated results then can be calculated to obtain the average burning rate.

The method:

1. Place the powder along the fixed consistent groove line covered the entire volume of the entire length. (make a powder train)

2. For timing: two common method;

Hand stopwatch: Start the stop watch as it ignites, and stop when it all burned up.

Video recorder: Record the burning video, playback; and check the time taken from start igniting to the end of the burning. *Common 30 frame rate per second video recorder would sufficient enough to calculate the time taken.

3. Repeat the test, but clear the groove first using any suitable tool and once the heat cool down, load next powder train for next run.

Consistencies that need to be maintain:

1. The weight or volume of the powder used. 2. The type and the grain of the powder must be of the same. 3. Evenly distribution of powder along the length. 4. Start and stop time measurement (timing). 5. The ambient of surrounding temperature.

To calculate, simply take the time it need to complete the all the powder, and divide with the length of the powder travel as equal to xxx cm3/second. For