MANIPAL UNIVERSITY JAIPUR

Aims to prepare professionals to work on minute technicalities of jewelry design, production, quality control, promotion, branding and management. The four year professional programme is intended to hone a new dimension of creativity, innovation, critical professional judgment along with intellectual acumen to develop and communicate conceptual arguments rooted in a holistic perception of jewelry design, management and business context.

Bachelor of Jewelry Design (B. Des)

MANUAL DESIGNING&

COMPUTER AIDED DESIGNING

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Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer systems to assist in the creation, modification, analysis, or optimization of a design.

CAD software is used to increase the productivity of the designer, improve the quality of design, improve communications through documentation, and to create a database for manufacturing.

GEMOLOGY

Gemology or gemmology is the science dealing with natural and artificial gems and gemstones. It is considered a geoscience and a branch of mineralogy.

Rubies from Jegdalek, Afghanistan

Mimetite / Black Forest, Germany

Aquamarine with Heliodor tip sceptre crystal / Erongo Mountain, Namibia

Tourmaline on quartz

Calcite with Quartz // Huanggang Mine, Inner Mongolia, China

Ametrine

GEMOLOGY

TOPAZ

CITRINE AMETRINE

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CALCITE

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JEWELLERY TECHNIQUES&

STONE SETTING

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Enamelling could mean the fusion of a special type of powdered glass to metals which is applied using different techniques, with the application of heat to melt the powder. There are enamel applications which are more detailed and contain different colours.

- Foreign/ Vilayati meena- heating temp:2500w; can be done on

18 to 24 karat of gold.- can be heated again n again, without hampering

the color of meena.

- Indian/ Desi meena- 98.5% pure; Rare; Heating temp:3000w;

Natural colors ; Has more shine.- Color value changes according to temperature.- Can be done only on 23 and 24 karat.- Many limitations; Available in high value

products only.

Filigree is a delicate kind of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and silver, made with tiny beads or twisted threads, or both in combination, soldered together or to the surface of an object of the same metal and arranged in artistic motifs. It often suggests lace and remains popular in Indian and other Asian metalwork.

FILIGREE

ENGRAVING

EMBOSSING

Engraving is the practice of incising a design onto a hard, usually flat surface, by cutting grooves into it. The result may be a decorated object in itself, as when silver, gold, steel, or glass are engraved, or may provide an intaglio printing plate, of copper or another metal, for printing images on paper as prints or illustrations; these images are also called engravings.

Sheet metal embossing is a process for producing raised or sunken designs or relief in sheet metal. This process can be made by means of matched male and female roller dies, or by passing sheet or a strip of metal between rolls of the desired pattern.

Patina is a film on the surface of bronze or similar metals (produced by oxidation over a long period); a sheen on wooden furniture produced by age, wear, and polishing; or any such acquired change of a surface through age and exposure. On metal, patina is a coating of various chemical compounds such as oxides or carbonates formed on the surface during exposure to the elements (weathering).

PATINATION

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Etching is the process of using strong acid or mordant to cut into the unprotected parts of a metal surface to create a design in intaglio in the metal (the original process—in modern manufacturing other chemicals may be used on other types of material). As an intaglio method of printmaking, it is along with engraving, and remains in wide use today.

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The name Mokumé-Gané translates to “wood grain metal” and is representative of the patterns achieved in its creation. The finished product displays myriad layers of coloured metals rippling and flowing in various directions. The creation of mokumé requires repetitively annealing, rolling, twisting and gouging the metal with burrs. Each piece is carved by hand using a drill to achieve unique patterns.

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Prong setting is the simplest and most common type of setting, largely because it uses the least amount of metal to hold the stone, thus showing it off to its best advantage. It is simply some number of wires, called prongs, which are of a certain size and shape, arranged in a shape and size to hold the given stone, and fixed at the base. Then a burr of the proper size, is used to cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a notch that corresponds to the angles of the stone. The burr most often used is called a "hart bur" that is angled and sized for the job of setting diamonds.

PRONG SETTING (Engagement and wedding ring) Prong Setting.

Prong setting (Ghat)

CHANNEL SETTING

Channel setting is a method whereby stones are suspended between two bars or strips of metal, called channels. Often when setting small stones and the bars go in a linear line with the design it is called channel setting, and when the bars cross the lines of the design, it's called bar set

CHANNEL SETTING

PAVE’ SETTING

Pavé settings are made up of lots of small gemstones, often diamonds, set closely together. The gems are separated and held in place by little beads of the setting metal. The result is what looks like a continuous surface of diamonds or other gems.

PAVE’ SETTING

ENLARGE VIEW

Flush Setting

FLUSH SETTING

Burnish set diamonds, Burnish setting or flush setting is similar to bead setting, but after the stone is inserted into the space, instead of using a graver to lift beads, a rubbing tool is used to push the metal all around onto the stone, not very different from bezel setting. The stone will be roughly flush with the surface, with a nice rubbed edge around it. This is a fairly recent type of setting, looks very contemporary, and the metal is often finished using sandblasting, as it shows off the work very well.

BEZEL SETTING

The earliest technique of attaching stones to jewelry was bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered to the piece of jewelry. Then the stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal rubbed over the stone, holding it in place. This method works well for either cabochon or faceted stones.

(Engagement Ring Setting ) Bezel Setting

Bezel Setting

PROJECTS

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COSTUME JEWELLERY

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COSTUME JEWELLERY

COSTUME JEWELLERY

FINE JEWELLERYACCESSORY DESIGN

FINE JEWELLERY

FINE JEWELLERY

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TRADITIONAL DESIGN

TRADITIONAL DESIGN

TRADITIONAL DESIGN

FINE JEWELLERY

ACCESSORY DESIGN

ACCESSORY DESIGNFINE JEWELLERY

ACCESSORY DESIGN

ACCESSORY DESIGN

A fashion accessory is an item which is used to contribute, in a secondary manner, to the wearer's outfit. The term came into use in the 19th century. Accessories are often used to complete an outfit and are chosen to specifically complement the wearer's look.

TRADITIONAL JEWELLERY DESIGNING

FINE JEWELLERY DESIGNING

COSTUME JEWELLERY

Costume jewelry is jewelry manufactured as ornamentation to complement a particular fashionable or garment as opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry which may be regarded primarily as collectibles,

keepsakes, or investments.

COSTUME JEWELLERY

Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High end crystals, cubic zirconia simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, Copper, German silver etc.