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MISSION
Our mission Is to profitably manufacture And Supply clothing of require quality
standards To our customers On time, every time"
COM PANY PROFILE:
MATRIX CLOTHING PVT. LTD.
Year of establishment: June 1980
Address: Matrix clothing Village - mohammadpur. Khandsa road, p.o. -Narsinghpur,
Gurgaon-122001 haryana
Annual turnover: 130 crore Rs.
Ownership: Partnership firmPartners:
Mr. Gautam Nair
Mr. Vikram Nair
Mr. Rajeev Dhawan
Monthly production capacity:
2 lac polos.
3 lacs boxer shorts,
1 lac ladies garments
No. Of employees: 2200
BRIEF PROFILE
PAUSHAK, a partnership firm, was set up in June 1980, to manufacture "paushak" (this
is a Persian word, meaning clothing) for the international market. The original
partnership is still flourishing with each of the three partners having a hand-on
involvement in operations. Paushak and its sister concern, matrix Clothing(P) LTD , are
currently engaged in the manufacture of woven and knitwear ladies/men's apparelessentially for European and North American markets. Other companies in the group
are engaged in the manufacture and export of polyesters zip fasteners. Total group
sales turnover for current year 2005-2006 is INR 130 Crores (equivalent to US$
29million) Of this apparel accounted for INR 90 crores or US$20 million.
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The Top Management
Rajeev Dhawan ,Handles production operations for both the woven and knitwear
divisions.
Gautam Nair, Handles client services and commercial operations.
PRODUCT RANGE
WOVEN
They make various products for men as well as ladies but the area of specialization is in
Men's/Boy's Boxer shorts along with ladies embellishment tops and blouses.
KNITWEAR
Their product range in knitwear comprises of:
men's knitted polos and cont front shirts in a variety of specialized fabrics. They work
with single/double mercerized fabrics, moisture management and performance fabrics
in 100% cotton as well as in blends.
ladies/girls knit tops with embroidery, bleaching and printing embellishments.
CLIENTS
They work with several international brands which are known world over for the quality
of their merchandise. The factory has been evaluated and approved for production by
well known brands as:
1. The gap clothing co. U.S.A.
2. Philip van huesen co. U.S.A.
3. Kohl's
4. Speedo
5. Ashworth
6. J. Crew
7. Reebok
8. Timberland
9. Abercrombie and fitch
10. Hollister
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11 .Next, U.K.
12. The Otto versand combined group, Europe
13. Speedo U.K.
14. Espirit
15. IZOD
16. Benetton group
17 .Armani exchange
18. Nautica
19. Tommy Hilfiger
20. Greg Norman collection
21. Calvin Klein
22. Tehama
23. Mervyns
24. Debenhams
25. Rockport
26. Old navy
27. Jos-a-bank
28. Woolworth
29. Belk
MANUFACTURING FACILITIES
Manufacturing operations for both knits and woven are processed at Gurgaon factory,
about 40kms from Delhi. The Gurgaon unit is a state of the art factory having over
100,000 sq. Ft of covered area. To ensure a hygienic, dust free atmosphere, the entire
unit is air cooled by a forced draft ventilation cooling system. Complete operations from
cutting to dispatch are done in house-over 400 Japanese sewing and special purpose
machines have been installed.
Special machines include 3-thread and 5-thread overlook, feed off the arm, double
needle machines, edge cutting, needle feed machines, bar tacking and band knife
cutters, more man 50% of the machines are, micro processors controlled with,
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automatic tacking and thread trimming functions. A complete washing plant is also
installed in house and is shared with the knitwear division. Companys Monthly capacity
is 300,000 boxer shorts and 60,000 ladies tops.
All manufacturing operations are centralized at Gurgaon. A total of 600 sewing
machines are currently engaged in knitwear production. The monthly capacity is
200,000 polo shirts per month and 100,000 ladies tops per month with production being
done on art assembly line system to enable quick turnarounds in sampling and
production, we have 7 circular knitting machines and 12 flat knit collar machines
installed in house. We also have three computerized embroidery machines with a total
of 46 embroidery stations. This enables the bulk of fabric/collar knitting/development
and all of our embroideries to be done in house.
THE ENVIRONMENT
INTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing
Compliance with human right standards is a key issue for today's apparel maker.
the company is an equal opportunity employer and does not discriminate in hiring
people on the basis of sex, religion, caste or creed. We meet and exceed statutory
requirements on work place hygiene, fire/safety regulations and minimum wages/
perquisites to employees. They have a unique employee welfare scheme where up to
two children of every employee whohas been in service for over seven years are
provided free education up to high school. They have an HR department for
development of human resources which focuses on their training, development, and
motivation and general welfare.
EXTERNAL ENVIRONMENT : Matrix Clothing
Concern for the environment is a cornerstone of our individual and business philosophy.
Although hardly any effluent is generated during the production process, waste water
from our washing department and toilets is treated in our own effluent treatment plant
jointly owned with an associate company before being recycled for use for horticulture
purposes. They believe that every business has a social responsibility towards the
society from where it draws its resources. Towards this end, we regularly participate in
several social and community development projects. In the past we have donated
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computers to a nearby village school for free computer education for under privileged
students, organizing relief material for cyclone ravaged area of Orissa in eastern India,
mobilizing funds for the Kargil relief fund for The Indian army and organizing a fund
collection effort from within the company towards Helping the earthquake ravaged state
of Gujarat where thousands of innocents lost their lives.
They also work actively with an NGO called the Salaam Baalak trust, which works
towards the rehabilitation of street children in Delhi.
VARIOUS UNITS OF MATRIX CLOTHING
1. Unit 1 (Knitted also known as Timberland Floor)
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Juki 14
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 151
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 12
4 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 21
5 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 17
6 6 T O/L Pegasus 1
7 Button Hole Brother 3
8 Button Stitch Brother, Juki 3
9 Bartack Juki 21
10 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 12
11 DNLS Brother, Juki 3
12 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 5
13 Fusing M/c Aura , Duke 3
14 Band Knife Duke 1
15 Needle Detection M/c 1
270
2. Unit I (Sampling)
Machine Details :
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S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 21
2 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 4
3 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 1
4 6 T O/L Pegasus 1
5 Button Hole Brother 1
6 Button Stitch Brother, Juki 1
7 Bartack Juki 1
10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 3
11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus 1
12 DNCS Higlade 1
13 Band Knife Duke 1
35
3. Knits 1st Floor
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) - 0
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 90
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 10
4 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 15
5 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 23
6 6 T O/L - 0
7 Button Hole Brother,Juki 3
8 Button Stitch Brother, Juki 2
9 Bartack Juki, Brother 210 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 16
11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 13
12 DNLS Brother, Juki 7
13 SNCS - 1
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14 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 3
15 Fusing M/c Kumsum 2
16 Band Knife Duke 1
17 Drill Maker Kingsew 1
18 Spotting M/c Travel 2
19 Pressing Table Excel 24
217
4. Knits 2nd Floor :
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) - 0
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 88
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 7
4 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 19
5 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 23
6 6 T O/L - 0
7 Button Hole Brother,Juki 3
8 Button Stitch Brother, Juki 2
9 Bartack Juki, Brother 3
10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 13
11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 8
12 DNLS Brother 1
13 SNCS - 0
14 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 3
15 Fusing M/c Kumsum 216 Band Knife Duke 1
17 Transfer Fusing Ramsons 1
18 Spotting M/c Travel 2
19 Pressing Table Excel 23
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187
5. Unit II (Sampling- Mens)
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 15
2 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 2
3 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 2
5 Button Hole Brother 1
6 Button Stitch Brother 1
7 Feed of the Arm Juki 1
10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 4
11 Kansai Special Fx 4404 1
27
6. Unit II (3rd Floor)
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) - 0
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 142
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 4
4 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 1
5 5 T O/L Juki, Pegasus 4
6 6 T O/L - 0
7 Button Hole Brother 2
8 Button Stitch Brother 29 Bartack Juki 7
10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 0
11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 3
12 DNLS Brother, Juki 8
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13 DNCS Juki, Typical 6
14 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 3
15 Fusing M/c Fablion 450 1
16 Kansai Special Fx Series 15
17 Feed of the Arm Juki,Brother 20
18 Spotting M/c Travel 5
19 Pressing Table Excel 26
20 Cone Binder Hasima 1
21 End Cutter Eastman 1
251
7. L.S.T. Ground Floor
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Juki 10
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 131
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 2
4 4 T O/L Pegasus 27
5 5 T O/L Pegasus 11
6 6 T O/L Pegasus 1
7 Button Hole Brother 1
8 Button Stitch Brother, Juki 1
9 Bartack Juki 1
10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 14
11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 3
12 DNLS Brother, Juki 313 Snap Button M/c Tacking 1
14 Needle Detection M/c Eastman 1
207
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8. L.S.T. 1st Floor
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Juki 12
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 109
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki, Brother 5
4 4 T O/L Pegasus, Yamato 33
5 5 T O/L Pegasus 1
6 6 T O/L Pegasus 1
7 Button Hole Brother 1
8 Button Stitch Brother 1
9 Bartack Juki 1
10 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 8
11 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 11
12 DNLS Brother, Juki 0
13 SNCS Juki, Higlade 3
14 Straight Knife Cutter Eastman 5
15 Rib Cutter Juki 1
16 Band Knife Duke 1
17 Transfer Fusing Ramsons 3
18 Fusing M/c Hasima 2
206
9. L.S.T. 2nd Floor
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Juki 11
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Juki, Brother 10
3 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki 1
4 4 T O/L Pegasus 3
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5 Multi Needle Chain Stitch Kansai, Fuken 2
6 Feed of the Arm Juki 3
7 Flat Lock Pegasus, Yamato 0
8 Flat Lock with Cloth Trimmer Pegasus, Yamato 3
12 DNLS Brother, Juki 4
37
10. Plot No. 33
Machine Details :
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Brother 115
2 Single Needle Lockstitch(UBT) Brother 75
3 Single Needle Lockstitch Juki 15
4 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Juki 10
5 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Brother 9
6 4 T O/L Pegasus 4
7 5 T O/L Pegasus 0
8 F/L Trimmer Pegasus 2
9 DNLS Brother 3
10 DNLS Juki 5
11 Flat Lock Pegasus 19
12 Button Stitch UBT Juki 3
13 Bartack Brother 314 Buttonhole Juki, Brother 3
15 Band Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 1
16 Fusing M/c Aura 2
17 DNCS Juki 1
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18 Straight Knife M/c Eastman, KM Mark 5
318
11. Plot No. 412
Machine Details:
S. No. Machine Type Model Quantity
1 Single Needle Lockstitch(Normal) Brother, Juki, Maqi 228
5 SNLS (with Edge Cutter) Brother 10
6 4 T O/L Pegasus 15
7 5 T O/L Pegasus, Hangan, Brother 37
8 F/L Trimmer Pegasus 4
9 DNLS Brother 12
10 Flat Lock Pegasus 10
11 Button Stitch UBT Brother 2
12 Bartack Brother 3
13 Buttonhole Juki, Brother 2
14 Straight Knife Cutting M/c Eastman 4
17 Fusing M/c Hashima 1
18 Snap Button M/c Tony 1
337
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Merchandising
Merchandising is the central part of garment manufacturing company. Merchandising is
vital from the buyer sourcing to the delivery of the products. The main role of
merchandiser in a production unit is to fulfil the needs of buyers by coordinating with themanufacturing departments. His work is to balance the quality price and delivery
simultaneously with proper co-ordination, supervision and control. Thus a merchandiser
is a fulcrum of the organization that involves coordinating and follow-up against tight
schedules merchandising department is involved throughout the process at each
and every step from getting the order, to the shipment of the order. Merchandising is the
focal point of activity in this company. It is the responsibility of a merchandiser to for all
the milestone activities with regard to processing of an order viz. Sampling, bulk
approvals, ordering fabrics, ordering trims and accessories, getting sample approvals,
fabric and garment testing, shipment sample submissions, production, inspection,
packaging and dispatch. When an order is received the first and main step is the
calculation of the cost of the garment. The merchandiser prepares invoice. An invoice is
a tender which is sent to the buyer which contains the details about the buyers name,
address, price quotation, terms of payment, credit or open account etc. At matrix as
such no invoice is prepared as the buyers are fixed but for new buyers this is done. In
case of old buyers, the buyers send the tech pack and then the merchandiser sends the
pricing. Negotiations then take place between the two and they decide upon a common
point of agreement. The costing is done in regards to CMTP i.e. Cut, make, trims and
packaging. It also includes the fabric and embellishments cost. A cost sheet is used for
this purpose.
Costing depends on the following factors :
Fabric cost
Fabric Type
Yarn
Count
GSM
Tube size open
Tube size closed
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Fabric cost per kg: yarn cost + knitting cost + knitting wastage + wet processing charge
+ processing loss + tube size open or closed
Collar
Cutting cost
Cutting charge
Production cost
Lockstitch
Overlock
Flatlock
Folding/binding
Shell stitch
Thread
Thread cutting
Trims cost
Main label
Twill tape
Care label
Tag
AP Ticket (or any other Tickets)
Tape
Side label
Finishing/packaging cost
Washing
Pressing
Price tag
Packing material
Carton
Truck to Chennai
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Embellishments cost
Woven patch
Printing
Sequins
Embroidery
OVERHEADS
All indirect costs
Contribution
It is the profit margin for the company.
Drawback
The percentage which is given by the government because the company is exporting
and getting foreign currency in India, It is usually 6-7%. This amount is usually deducted
from the contribution value.
Handling/settlement value
It is the amount that is given to the buyer. It is usually 6-7%.
Once the cost is determined, the merchandiser quotes this cost to the buyer.
Negotiations take place between the two and accordingly a settlement is reached. The
buyer then sends a specification sheet to the merchandiser, which contains all required
details about the order. Based on this spec sheet the proto sample is made. The
number of proto samples to be made is determined by the buyer. Usually 3 proto
samples are made. One is sent to the buyer, one to the buying house and the third one
is kept by the merchandiser as a counter sample. If the proto samples are rejected, they
are to be made again. If the samples are approved then the next step is the construction
of the size samples. Size Set samples are made in all sizes with the required fabric in
the original colour. If these size set samples are approved then the in house production
order is received and accordingly everything is ordered for. The merchandiser makes
cad request form by this purchase order form, which is in turn made by the marker
efficiency form. Two copies are made, one of them is sent to the sourcing department
so that the required amount of fabric is procured for production and the other copy is
sent to the CAD department to get the average. This average helps in knowing how
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much fabric would be required for the particular number of pieces. Once an order is
given it is punched into the ERP software. The software that is used by the
merchandisers is called the World Fashion Exchange. The order is punched with the
order confirmation number along with the details of the buyer, quantity, style etc.
The order confirmation number has the following parts:
11. K.TMB.033.0173
11 stand for the year
K stands for knits
TMB stands for the buyer name
033 the order number of the year for the particular buyer
0173 the order number of the year for the whole company
When the order is punched the cad requisition form is made. Side by side the sampling
has started and the samples are to be approved. Through the cad request form MRL is
generated. MRL is material requirement list. MRL lets one know the amount of total
fabric that is required as well as the trims. The approved fabric and the trims swatch are
received. An indent is formed for the fabric as well as the trims. This indent is the
permission by the merchandiser to buy the trims as well as the fabric. The head of the
merchandising department signs it. Alongside MRL, BOM is made. BOM is the bill of
material for fabric, trims as well as for the packaging material. The order confirmation
tells about the price where as BOM tells about the required quantity.
MRL=BOM x OC
The merchandiser then prepares a summary sheet. This summary sheet consists of a
one-page summary of the details of the order. It lists the color wise and size wise
breakdown of particular style, the consumption, the amount of fabric required, delivery
date and price. The copy of this summary sheet is circulated to all department heads
that are associated with the processing of the order namely fabric department, stores,
production, and finishing, accounts, shipping and documentation department.
The main documents that are used by the merchandising departments are:
1. Tech pack-it contains all the technical details about the garment to be manufactured.
It contains the construction details, the type of fabric to be used, the trims and
accessories that are required etc.
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2. Time and action plan- as the name suggests it contains the time period to be
allotted for a particular action. By action it means the time the samples need to be
made, sent and approved, the time it takes to get the purchase order, the time taken for
getting the bulk fabric, accessories and trims, the total time required in the production
department i.e. from cutting to packaging and also the time for shipping and
documentation. The difference between the planned and actual dates should be less
and it is usually made
for a total of 90 days from the order receive date till the shipment date.
3. BOM-it is the bill of material. It is made for fabric, sewing trims and packing trims. The
fabric contains cuffs, collars, and the different types of fabric that are used in the
garment. It contains the type of fabric, color, size (in case of collars and cuffs), rate,
quantity, supplier, purchase officer etc. The sewing trims consist of main labels, wash
care labels, size labels and buttons etc. The packing trims consist of poly bag, tissue
paper, sticker, hang tag and price ticket etc.
4. MRL- it is the material requirement list. MRL lets one know the amount of total fabric
that is required as well as the trims. It is again made for fabric, sewing and packing
trims.
PURCHASING TERMS
FOB-free on board- it is the simplest costing procedure. In this the costing is done till
the delivery till the port of ones own country.
C&F-cost and freight
C&I-cost and insurance
LDP-land duty port - in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyers port
DDU-delivery duty and paid - in this case the delivery is to be made till the buyers
warehouse or the buyers destination.
Payment terms
Payment in advance-the payment for the delivery is done in the advance
Open account- as the buyers and the company have been working for a long time now,
they have an open account. This open account enables the company to take out capital
from the account, which is in turn filled up by the buyer. This is usually done with orders
that are running all around the year.
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Letter of credit (loc)-letter of credit is the proof by the buyer that the payment will be
made to the company on the shipment. It is usually given after 30 days of shipment.
As the buyer sends the purchase order (PO) to the company, he sends the loc to his
bank. The company receives the p0 and issues a copy of it to his bank. The bank then
forwards the PO to the buyers bank and the dealings are made accordingly. The
company can now take up to 80-90% of the capital by their bank.
Documents on payment (DOP) and documents on acceptance (DOA)-
DOA-the company sends the documents to its bank. This bank then sends the
documents to the buyers bank. This bank then prepares an agreement on the basis of
some clauses such as the time for payment etc. And when the buyer signs these
agreements then only will he get those documents.
DOP-the documents are sent to the companys bank, which sends it to the buyers
bank. The buyers bank gives these documents to the buyer only if the bank receives
the payment. The buyer can get the shipment only on the basis of these documents.
The exporter sends the shipment to the buying house, this buying house then sends the
goods to the foreign buyer. The entitlement of the goods will not be transferred to the
foreign buyer. It will get the entitlement only if it sells. If the goods are not sold then they
can be returned to the buying house.
Order stage
The merchandiser gets detailed information from buyer about a product like:
Style Details:
Tech pack
Fabric type
Quality and fiber content
Trim requirements and quality of trims used
color details
Additional processing required like washing, printing, embroidery.
Sometimes they provide a style sample also
Sampling Stage :
Make the prototype sample
Coordinate with research and development for product study
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Find the fabric consumptions and initial costing
Send the sample with price quotations
Confirmation Stage:
receive the purchase order
receive the amendments in the style
confirm the price
confirm the delivery schedule and get the required lead time.
Processing stage
Receive the commands for the end sample and get it corrected
Get the approval for the samples and trims
Prepare the time action calendar
Prepare the fabric and trim indents
Get the list of tests required
Coordination with the logistics, r&d and I.E. For detailed reports
Coordinate with PPC for production planning
Send the order status to the buying office at every stage
Receive the ordered fabric and trims.
Conduct the tests in buyers authorized laboratory and get it approved.
Production stage:
call for the production meeting every Saturday
prepare the production file and forward the same to the unit
look upon the finance in each department
Shipment stage:
Coordinate with logistics department and buyer for shipping documents
coordinate with bank for receiving the money
The major focus of the merchandiser is on his communication skills, he acts as the
mediator between the buyer and the company. While taking up the order it is his job to
ensure that no mistakes take place and there should be no misunderstanding between
him and the buyer. The mode of communication practiced in matrix is via emails and
faxes. Correspondence files are maintained for each buyer in which the details of all the
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incoming and outgoing correspondences are kept. It is the responsibility of the
merchandiser to ensure that the data which is supplied to the various departments of
the company is free from any errors. If any mistake is done in this aspect it may lead to
held up of production and ultimately the delay or in worse cases the cancellation of
shipments.
Example of a 90 day Template of T&A Calendar
Track Target Date : 08 July 2011-07-02
Task Duration
(in
Days)
After Task Target Date
OC PUNCHING 1 10 APR 2011
LAB DIP APPROVAL 7 16 APR 2011
FINAL MRL PROCESSING 8 OC PUNCHING 18 APR 2011
TRIMS INHOUSE DEADLINE 35 FINAL MRL
PROCESSING
23 MAY 2011
FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL 17 26 APRIL 2011
FABRIC FIRST LOT
APPROVAL
21 LAB DIP APPROVAL 7 MAY 2011
PP/ SEALER APPROVAL 15 FABRIC FIRST LOT
APPROVAL, FIT
SAMPLE APPROVAL
22 MAY 2011
FABRIC TEST RESULTS 1 FABRIC FIRST LOT
APPROVAL
8 MAY 2011
FABRIC INHOUSE 21 FABRIC FIRST LOT
APPROVAL
28 MAY 2011
FILE HANDOVER DATE 55 3 JUNE 2011
PCD 62 10 JUNE 2011
FINAL INSPECTION 28 PCD 8 JULY 2011
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Jist of Merchandising Activity:
Receive the Tech Pack from the
Prepare the Proto Sample
Get the Approval of the Proto
Prepare the Fit Samples/Get them
Send the Sales Man Sample to the
Prepare the Pre Production
Prepare the Pre Production
Get the Pre Production Sample
Send the Fabric Sample (Beginning, Middle, End) to
Send the Top of Production Sample to
Accumulate the Pack Pull Samples
Co-ordinate with the Production Department and send the
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Sample Cost Sheet : Knits/Timberland
Buyer /
Label
Date
:
Season
Style #
Style
Description
Yarn Count /
Type
Yarn
Conten
t
Fabric Type
/ Finish
FABRIC PRICE
ITEM
YA
RN
KNIT
TING
LOS
S %
PRC.
COST
LOS
S %
C
T
G
TO
TAL
PANEL
LENGTH
PANEL
WIDTH GSM
CON
S.
PRICE
(INR)
TOTAL
FABRIC
PRICE
STITCHING / PACKING TRIM PRICE
ITEM ITEM DESCRIPTION FOB
FRT + HANDLING
% LDP
CON
S.
PRICE
(INR)
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TOTAL TRIM
PRICE
VALUE ADDITION COST (EMBROIDERY/PRINTING/OVERDYING)
OPERATION
COST
/KG
CO
NS. EFF%
COST/P
c.
REJECTION
%
PRICE
(INR)
TOTAL EMBELLISHMENT COST
COSTING SUMMARY
MISC. CHARGES GARMENT SAM SAM COST
PRICE
(INR)
TOTAL INPUT COST
TOTAL COST PRICE
CONTRIBUTION
DRAWBACKSELLING PRICE
NET CONTIBUTION
SPECIAL EXCHANGE RATE
REMARKS
APPROVED AS ON : AUTHORIZED BY :
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Store
There are 2 stores at Matrix Clothing. One store is specifically dedicated for storing the
knitted fabrics, while the other store holds the woven fabric, knitted fabric and the Trims
as well.
Activities in the Store:
1. Receive the fabric
2. Tally the fabric against the ordered and mentioned quantity
3. Open the bale and tally the packing list (if woven fabric)
4. Then the quality check is done as per the 4 point system i.e. a maximum of 40
defects per 100 sq yd
5. The woven fabric is checked entirely while the knit fabric is checked only 20%.
6. The widths of the fabric at beginning, middle and end are checked and recorded.
7. The record of defects in the fabric is also kept. This helps in communicating tothe floor and warning them about the defects so that counter measures can be
taken.
The Store is responsible for adequately holding the material and issuing the materials in
the right quantity, to the right department/floor, in the right time.
When the store receives the order from any department the store checks the P.O. and
the amount to be issued. Once the quantity is issued a challan is issued to keep a
record of the fabric issued.
There are 2 fabric stores, the capacity of which are :
Store 1 50 Tons knits + 2 Lakh mt. Woven Fabric
Store 2 200 Tons knits + 10000 mt. Woven Fabric
4 point system for fabric checking:
Up to 3 inches 1 point
3-6 inches 2 points
6-9 inches 3 points
Over 9 inches 4 points
Holes and openings 0-1 inches 2 points
Over 1 inches 4 points
Total defects points per 100 sq. Yard are calculated, and normally those fabric rolls
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containing more than 40 points per 100 sq. Yard are considered "seconds". However
different buyers have their different acceptance criteria. Most prominent fabric faults to
be looked upon are:
Mending hole
Hole
Knitting fault
Barre
Color tinting
Stain
Kitty
Crease
As the rolls are being inspected, the inspector has to fill in a form for his reference as
well. This form is called the matrix fabric inspection report. It contains the following
details:
Fabric: the type of fabric which is being inspected
Supplier: the supplier of the fabric
Color: the color of the fabric
Width required
Lot no
Style no
Buyer; the buyer's name
Width received
GSM required
GSM received
No. Of rolls
As the rolls are being inspected, the roll no is noted down. For every roll no the following
Details have to be determined as well as calculated:
1. No. Of pieces: these are the number of fabric pieces in the whole roll. If the fabric has
a defect which is stretched over a particular length and width, then the fabric is cut from
that portion, hence two pieces are obtained within the same roll.
2. Weight of the fabric roll
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3. GSM calculated
4. Width: the width is found out in the starting, middle and at the end. This is to see if
there is any width variation within the roll as it would give problems in cutting then.
5. Points calculation: this is to see how many defects lie under the category of 1 point, 2
point, 3 point or 4 point and there respective total.
6. Total points
7. This tells weather to grade the fabric as A, B,C or D grade.
0-25% A grade-accepted
25-50% B grade - under decision
50-75% C grade- under decision
75% and above D grade- rejected
Comments: the comments are made regarding the defects. It is to classify the defects
on the basis of yarn defects, knitting defects or processing defects.
After the roll is inspected, it is packed again in plastic sheets and two types of stickers
are put on them. One of the stickers has the following details.
1. Style no
2. Buyer
3. Combo
4. Purchase order no.
5. Party
6. Date
7. Roll no.
8. Lot no.
9. Required size
10. Actual size act
11.GSM
12. Quantity
13. Yarn lot: contains the no. Of defects
This sticker is put on the fabric roll that is packed. The other sticker that is put on the roll
is the colored sticker that tells about the grade of the fabric.
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The color code is:
1. Light green-passed from inspection-A grade
2. Yellow- non conforming or under decision-B & C grade
3. Red - rejected from inspection - D grade
Trims Store :
The Trims Store holds the following :
Twill Tape
Main Label
Size Label
Sewing Thread
Embroidery Thread
Wash care Label
Asia Pacific Sticker
Price Ticket
Poly bag Sticker
Poly bag
Hang Tag
Carton
When the Trims are received by the Store firstly the quantities are checked. The bill
against the P.O. contains the quantity. For checking the quality of the Trims received
random boxes are opened and checked.
Knitting Section
Matrix Clothing (P) Ltd. Has its own knitting section which provides 100% Rib and
satisfies 10-15% requirement of fabric.
Chiefly Fabric for Sampling is produced in the knitting section, but they alsoproduce fabric for shortages and urgent fabric requirements.
There are 8 circular knitting machines.
1. 2 Electronic Jacquard machines (Diameter-31, Gauge-24).
2. 1 Rib Maker machine (Diameter-30, Gauge-18).
3. Mini Jacquard machine (Diameter-30, Gauge-28).
4. 2 Single Jersey (4 Track) machines (Diameter-30, Gauge-28).
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The section also has 12 flat bed knitting machines (Bed-80, Gauge-14).
There are 3 fabric Inspection machines.
One coning machine.
The knitting unit does not have a fabric finishing facility. This is the reason why
the knitted fabric has to be sent outside for finishing. The management is
planning to have an in-house finishing facility very soon. The knitting unit can
then supply the fabric to the sewing floors in a very short lead time.
Per day capacity of this unit is 1 Ton (produced in 24 hours).
On an average the kitting unit provides 20-22 Tons fabric to the sewing floors.
PRODUCTION PLANNING
A line plan is made by the planning department. The capacity for each line is
determined according to the SAM. This helps in putting the target for the particular line
so as to meet the shipment date. While setting the line plan the efficiency of each line is
taken around 50-55%. This is because of normal and abnormal absenteeism as well as
the current efficiency of normal working of the operators. This line plan is made for each
floor separately as well as for each line. It consists of the line number, date, the target to
be set, the style number, the output to be delivered as well as the target output of the
whole day for the entire floor. Moreover, the planning can also be made on historical
data as in certain lines would be good at handling specific styles hence when the same
style returns it can allotted to the same line.The line to be selected for the particular style is decided on various issues. These are:
1. If it is repeat order for the line
2. Particular buying house wants that particular line to make their product.
3. Particular buying house wants that particular floor to make their product.
This line plan is reviewed every day and the changes are incorporated every week.
These changes may be made because of inefficiency of the line, style gets delayed due
to various reasons such as the fabrics and trims were not available on time etc.
The planning department also makes Daily Production Reports and Line Wise Reports
which help them to keep a track of the production and make planning if anything goes
wrong. Full cooperation with the merchandising department is necessary
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CAD Section
The Process of CAD department :
The CAD department has the responsibility to provide the Sampling department and the
Sewing floors with the correctly developed patterns. The CAD dept. must take special
care of marker efficiency in order to utilise the fabric in the best possible way.
Development of pattern as per
Style/Order
Fit/P.P. Approval
CAD Average
Fabric Ordered Accordingly
Shrinkage test
Development of pattern as per Allowance
Final Marker/Patter Ready
Pattern Send to Production Floor
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Spreading and Cutting
At Unit I :
No. Of Tables - 4
No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines 5
No. Of Operators 26
Types of fabrics handled fleece, RFD, Auto Striped, Engineered Striped, solid pique.
(only knits)
Per Day Cutting Capacity:
Solid Pieces : 5000-6000
Striped Pieces : 2000-2500Per Day Fabric Consumption :
Solid : 1800-2000 Kg.
Striped : 500 Kg.
Get the Order Quantity from the P.O.
Order the required fabric from the store
Check the CAD average of the P.O.
Receive the Fabric
Cut the front and back mock for shrinkage test
Give the shrinkage percentage along the CAD Requisition
Allot the fabric to the cutting tables
The Fabric is spread and cut
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Standard Operating Procedure Before Cutting Fabric :
1. Measure the widths of three different fabric lots.
2. Generally Cut able Width = Actual Width2 or 3.
3. Segregate the fabric lots according to the width.
4. Cut the mocks from these lots and send them for washing.
5. Get the width wise and length wise shrinkage of the fabric.
6. Finally the width of the fabric will be received and confirmed.
7. Hence according to the garment ratio and lay lot planning the CAD department
gives the final length of the layers.
Spreading and Cutting Activity :
Fabric # 1
Style No. - 94468
Colour - Rust
Fabric - Fleece
Garment Timberland Sweatshirt
Total Fabric Quantity = 478 Kg.
Ticketing and numbering on cut parts
Generate the Internal Issue Slip
Bundling of Garment parts
Feed the bundles to the lines
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Size Ratio
S : M : L : XL : XXL
48 : 150 : 197 : 177 : 109
No. Of Plies Spread = 45
Time Taken in Spreading (45 plies) = 51 minutes
Time Taken in Cutting (45 plies) = 45 minutes
No. Of Operators Involved = 2
Length of Lay = 146.5 inch
Width of Lay = 70 inch
Lay Height = 4 inch
Total P.O. of 478 Kg. is cut in 2 days.
25th May 93 kg. / 243 pieces
27th May 385 kg. / 438 pieces
Table utilized for this P.O. = 1
Operators = 5
Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2
Type of Fabric Readings (in seconds)
Fleece 35
37
36
38
35
33
36
35
51
38
Average Time 37.4
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Allowance 15%
Spreading SAM/ply 0.73
Observations :
1. Total No. Of plies were 45.
2. The spreading time was 51 minutes.
3. The entire layer was cut in 45 minutes.
4. The operators Santosh and RajKumar were quick in handling the fabric defects.
Suggestions :
1. The layer height went 1 above the mandatory lay height i.e. 3. This can restrict
the proper movement of the knife hence the number of plies for fleece should be
max. 35.
2. The scissors must be sharpened so that the spreading time can be reduced.
3. A lot of time is wasted on fetching things like scissors, tape, paper. These things
must be sorted and put at specific places.
4. After the layer is set there was no marker, the marker must be brought in as the
spreading starts.
Fabric # 2
Style No. - 67499
Colour - White
Fabric - Pique
Garment - T-shirt
Total Fabric Quantity = 91 Kg.
Size Ratio
S : M : L : XL : XXL
43 : 86 : 64 : 32 : 109
No. Of Plies Spread = 32
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Time Taken in Spreading (32 plies) = 35 minutes
Time Taken in Cutting (32 plies) = 57 minutes
No. Of Operators Involved = 2
Length of Lay = 236 cm
Width of Lay =208 cm
Lay Height = 2.5 inch
Total P.O. of 91 Kg. is cut in 1 day.
1 June 93 kg. / 268 pieces
Table utilized for this P.O. = 1
Operators = 5
Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2
Type of Fabric Readings (in seconds)
RFD Pique 63
66
58
68
6675
60
55
53
57
Average Time 62.1
Allowance 15%
Spreading SAM/ply 1.19
Observations :
1. The operators were a bit slow in spreading and required the help in placing the
marker properly.
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Suggestions :
1. The operators must be educated about dropping the waste bits in the dust bins
and keeping the walking area clean.
Fabric # 3
Style No. - 91443
Colour - Dark Navy
Garment Rugby T-shirt
Total Fabric Quantity = 466 Kg.
No. Of Plies Spread = 52
Time Taken in Spreading (52 plies) = 126 minutes
Time Taken in Cutting (52 plies) = 94 minutes
No. Of Operators Involved = 3
Length of Lay = 34 inch
Width of Lay =14 inch
Lay Height = 2.5 inch
Total P.O. of 466 Kg. is cut in 1 day.
2nd June 466 kg. / 613 pieces
Table utilized for this P.O. = 1
Operators = 8
Straight Knife Cutting m/c = 2
Type of Fabric Activity Readings (in seconds)
Autostriper Jersey Block Cutting 38
37
36
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47
26
28
34
34
34
24
Average Time 33.8
Allowance 15%
SAM (Block Cutting) 0.65
Type of Fabric Activity Readings (in seconds)
Autostriper Jersey Bundling 58
57
40
32
32
37
45
29
37
33
Average Time 40
Allowance 15%
SAM (Bundling) 0.77
Type of Fabric Activity Readings (in seconds)
Autostriper Jersey Layering 26
20
22
13
15
18
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31
20
19
15
Average Time 19.9
Allowance 15%
SAM (Layering) 0.38
Type of Fabric Activity Readings (in seconds)
Autostriper Jersey Sleeve Spreading 40
35
34
50
45
50
55
30
25
27
Average Time 39.1
Allowance 15%
SAM (Sleeve Spreading) 0.75
Spreading and Cutting
At Unit II (3rd Floor) :
No. Of Tables - 4
No. Of Straight Knife Cutting Machines 3
No. Of Operators 10
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Types of fabrics handled Woven (printed and checked)
Per Day Cutting Capacity: 7000 pieces approx.
Per Day Fabric Consumption : 4300-4500 mts.
# Fabric : 1
Garment: Boxer Mens
Buyer : Abercrombie & Fitch
Style : IL6184 (Checked)
Width : 58
Layer Length : 5 yards
No. Of Plies : 245
No. Of Operators : 3
No. Of cutting m/c : 2
Spreading Time : 2 hours 53 minutes
Cutting Time : 1 hour 05 minutes
Type of Fabric Readings (in seconds)
Woven Check 34
37
30
3830
34
31
36
32
40
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Average Time 34.2
Allowance 15%
Spreading SAM/ply 0.66
Observations :
1. The checked fabric layer requires manual flow matching of patters which can
take around 1-1.5 hours.
2. There is only 1 pattern Master available for flow matching.
# Fabric : 2
Garment: Boxer Mens
Buyer : Hollister (A&F)
Style : IL6184 (Printed)
Width : 59.5
Layer Length : 7 yards
No. Of Plies : 30
No. Of Operators : 3
No. Of cutting m/c : 2
Spreading Time : 20 minutes
Cutting Time : 52 minutes
Type of Fabric Readings (in seconds)
Woven Printed 32
32
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34
32
31
30
32
3434
37
Average Time 32.8
Allowance 15%
Spreading SAM/ply 0.63
Observations:
1. There were 3 operators involved in the spreading of the layer.
2. We had the opportunity of removing one operator and as a result the time taken
to spread 1 ply shot up by 15 seconds.
3. This was because the operators had to travel along the table twice for spreading
the ply and once for setting it.
Stitching
Style - #91443
Auto Striped Rugby T-Shirt.
Timberland.
As the result of Time Study :
S No. Name of the Operation SMV
1 Zig -Zag stitch on Collar 0.76
2 Collar Run stitch 0.81
3 Collar Top Stitch 0.68
4 Collar Band Attach 0.86
5 Deco Stitch on Band 0.83
6 Cuff Join 0.65
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7 Cuff Run stitch 0.78
8 Placket to Placket Attach 0.52
9 Placket Attach to Body 0.85
10 Placket Tape attach to tape 0.61
11 Placket Edge Stitch 0.65
12 Placket Close and Finish 1.213 Placket Box Making 1.12
14 Label Attach to patch 0.55
15 label patch attach to moon 1
16 Moon Attach to Back 0.7
17 Shoulder Attach 0.52
18 Shoulder Turn & Stitch 0.5
19 Sleeve Attach 1.23
20 Armhole Topstitch 0.75
21 Bottom Hem 0.78
22 Stay Stitch to Neck 0.5123 Collar Attach to body 1.09
24 Collar Finish 1.2
25 Side Seam Attach & Placket Serge 1.4
26 Slit Tape Attach 1.05
27 Slit Tape Finish 0.9
28 Cuff Attach 0.85
29 Turn & Stitch on Attached Cuff 0.7
30 Wash Care Label Attach 0.42
31 Final Tack 0.42
* Garment SAM 24.89
Learning :
1. The critical operations in a Rugby T shirt are in the Placket and Collar.
2. A Critical Operation also known as the bottle neck operation is responsible forthe increased throughput time of a piece.
3. To get proper output at end of line these critical operations must be taken care
of.
4. There are 5 operations in a collar this is the reason why collar was being
prepared in a different line.
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5. The other critical operation is the Placket. It also has 5 operations in it.
6. Though the operations in the placket are included in the main line these
operations are done by one highly skilled operator so as to supply proper
feeding.
7. Moreover during the setup time for the style a few operators produce enough
feeding (Front with placket attached & Moon, Label attached to Back).
8. The other assembly operations such as Sleeve Attach, Collar Attach to Body,
Collar Finish, Side Seam attach and Placket Serge are done by skilled operators
who have years of experience in the same operation.
9. The WIP between operations is around 25 pieces.
10. The operators are on a piece rate payment basis.
11. The maximum output of the line is 450 pieces per day.
12. The number of machines in a line is 30.
Style - #1L6184
Menswear Printed Boxer Short.
Hollister.
As the result of Time Study :
S No. Name of the Operation SMV
1 Complete Fly Attach 2.45
2 Join Back Rise 0.5
3 Turn & Stitch Back Rise 0.14
4 Join Inseam 0.34
5 Turn & Stitch Inseam 0.3
6 Side Attach 0.61
7 Side Finish 0.42
8 Bottom Hem 0.65
9 Mark on Waistband & Elastic put in bundle 0.24
10 Waistband Over lock 0.17
11 Tack elastic to waistband 0.61
12 Turn & Stitch on Waistband 0.4
13 Bar tack 0.31
14 Attach Label to Waistband 0.36
15 Unfold & Elastic cutting 0.14
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16 Elastic Ring Making 0.2
17 Elastic Marking 0.15
18 Label To Elastic 0.53
* Garment SAM 8.52
Learning :
1. The critical operation in a Boxer short is the fly operation.
2. The operators on the 3rd floor are on salaried basis, but the fly operation is done
by piece rate operators.
3. This is because the piece rate operators can prepare enough front panels for
feeding in the line quickly.
4. The in line WIP is maintained at 200-250.
5. The WIP between operations is 25 pieces.
6. The hourly target for the line is set, if the target is not achieved the remainingpieces are added up to the target of the next hour.
7. The maximum output of the line is 1500 pieces in 10 hours.
8. The number of machines in a line is 24.
Embroidery
Matrix Clothing has an in house embroidery department.
Punching in the software and ultimately in the machine.
Embroidery work flow
Get the Design (design data)
Ready and check the Embroidery machine, fabric/thread
Original drawing
Scanner
Enlargement of original drawing
Dg/ml floppy disc-
Embroidery
Finishing
Quality check
Setting of fabric
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Putting the foam
Setting of upper and under thread
Embroidery is the decorative stitching on the fabric. It is either in the form of a brand
name or label or it could be some form of motif or design. The buyer to the
merchandiser supplies this design. The merchandiser supplies the design to the
embroidery department.
Machine embroidery over here can be described through two factors. One is by the
sewing machine to manually create a design on a piece of fabric or other similar item.
This is usually done for making new samples for the design department.
The other factor for the embroidery machine is to use specially designed, computerized
embroidery machine to automatically create a design from a pre made pattern that is
input into the machine.
Industrial embroidery machines are with automatic technology that can process and
output complex designs that have been stored in a computer. Computerized embroidery
machines are commonly used in product development operations and mass production
of repeat patterns.
The patterns to be embroidered are scanned on to the computer and using the software
es65 Wilcom are converted into embroidery designs that will be put into the floppy
which would be then eventually put into the machine that will recognize the commandsand do the embroidery.
The embroidery process includes the following steps:
1. Sorting the pieces on the basis of size
2. Scanning the design
3. Punching the design into the software
4. Marking of the pieces
5. Framing of the pieces
6. Loading the pieces (includes the loading of foam)
7. Embroidery
8. Unloading of the pieces (includes the simultaneous removal of frames)
9. Finishing
There are typically 3 types of stitches
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1. Run stitch- This stitch is the initial stitch that outlines the main design to be
embroidered. These are of three types
Simple run stitch- its a single line.
Triple run stitch- this stitch is runs on the same outline three times to make it thick
Motif run stitch- the motif will be run as a stitch. This is done when patches are used.
The Placement of the motif is first made through stitches and then the patch of the motif
is put.
2. Satin stitch- This stitch is long stitch that fills from one end to the other
3. Tatami stitch- This stitch is also known as the fill stitch, it fills up the base. It is of two
types :
Zig- zag stitch- this runs in a zig zag fashion.
E stitch-in this type of the stitch there is space between the stitches.
There are a total of three computerized machines in the embroidery department. They
are:
1. Tajima (Japanese make)
6 colors
20 heads
head to head distance-200mm
flat design, used for production
2. Zsk (German make)
9 colors
20 heads
Head to head distance -- 300 mm embossed design, used for production
3. Zsk (German make)
11 colors
6 Head
Used for samplingFoam or fusing is used while embroidering the pieces. This foam is usually to avoid the
contraction and expansion of garment pieces or panels. The type of foam to be used
depends upon the requirement of the buyer. The various foams used are:
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1. Water soluble fusing. This fusing is used in case of women's garments. It is used
while embroidering and is removed during the wash the cost is relatively high, around
Rs. 24/meter.
2. Random fusing: this is usually used in case where the backing of embroidery has to
be removed. It is used in case of low costing and comes at a range of 20-30 GSM.
3. 90 RDM foam: it is a cut able foam this is usually used in case of embossing effect.
The cost is Rs. 4/meter
4. Tear able both side foam: this type of foam is used in the design which involve some
text form on them. It is not tore off but cut from the design. It comes as 45 gsm and the
cost is around Rs. 5/meter.
5. Tear able one side foam (tpoi): this type of foam is used in pairs. The look of the
design is firm and good and is available in the market at the cost of Rs. 3/meter.
The threads which are used in the embroidery machine are usually cotton blend threads
With polyester, cotton threads or viscose threads. The type of thread and the count to
be used should be appropriate so as to avoid any thread breakages, clogging of stitches
or poor finishing of embroidery.
The various thread companies are:
1. Madeira- Rs.65/1000m
2. Telephone- Rs. 14/800m
3. Oswal-Rs.l6/800m
4. Vardhman- Rs. 10/400m
5. Coats sylko-Rs.52/1000m
The type of needle to be used depends largely on the type of machine and application.
In embroidery the standard needle is db x k5 # 11.
Flow Process
Time Taken
(approx.)
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** On an average 20 head embroidery machine produces 20, 1X1 inch
embroidery designs in 10 minutes.
WASHING
Washing is an important factor in the overall production of the garment. After the
garment has been produced to all the required specifications, it is essential to send it for
washing to remove any unnecessary stains and also to impart certain types of finishes
that are desired by the buyer for his product washing adds to the aesthetic sense of the
garment.
Work force: 15
Type of washes:
1) Enzyme Wash
2) Garment Wash
3) Softener Wash (silicon wash)
0.21 minute
0.23 minute
(1.46+2.31+1.92 )
minute
(1.02+0.25) minute
Ply/Garment Received
Marking on Panel/Garment
Framing
Machine Time (Placing, Uptime, Removal)
Finishing (Thread Cutting, Checking)
Despatch to Location
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4) Machine Wash (normal detergent)
5) Bleach wash
These washes given were depending upon mainly on the buyer's specification. Some
other factors also contribute to their selection, like - Fabric strength, type of effect
needed, color of fabric, total costing of the fabric.
Garments are washed after they have been properly stitched. Not only garments are
washed but also cut fabrics. These fabrics are termed as cut panel laundry. They are
those fabrics which have abrupt shrinkage. The fabrics are cut according to their
desired length of the marker and then sent for the washing. This is done for pre
shrinking. It is required so that the fabrics can shrunk before cutting so that no further
shrinking can take place. Thus the shrinkage is adjusted.
The Process is called CPL : Cut Panel Length
Prerequisites for CPL :
1. Cut the panels based on the layer length and add the shrinkage based on the lab
report for CPL wash.
2. Cut panel has to be dipped in normal water for 3-4 hours under normal room
temperature.
3. After dipping process the panel should be hydrated to extract the water from it.
4. Panels should be properly dried in tumbles at a temperature of 70 C.
5. Once the panels dry then the panels should be taken out from the tumble gently
to avoid the stretch during handling.
Enzyme wash:
The Process flow of this type of wash is as follows:
Desizing
Rinse
Enzyme
Rinse
Finishing agent
For enzyme wash the temp of around 50-60 degree Celsius is maintained. The thinner
the fabric lesser the temperature is.
Garment wash:
In this the garments are washed normally. The spots and stains axe removed by using
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Acetone and Vinyl. The solution of soap, Acetone and Vinyl are prepared and applied
manually by small tooth brushes. Basically water is used for removing sand and soil
stains. Acetone is used for removing ink stains. Vinyl is used for removing hard stains
like oil spots etc.
Softener wash:
This is done to give finishing to the garments and fabric. The garments are treated with
some finishing agents like silicone etc to give a soft and smooth feel to the garments.
5 to 10 pieces are first tested. If the fabric is soft in feel then it requires less softener and
for fabrics with harsh feel the application of softener is comparatively much more.
If the fabrics turn out to be less soft than they treat it again with softener.
Different type of softeners are:
Anionic softener
Cationic softener
Silicone softener
In silicone washing a pool of water is made in which silicone is added, the fabrics are
dipped into the pool for 45 min. The water is generally luke warm water. There is no
temperature control for silicone wash.
There are two types of chemical used for silicone wash. They are 196 Ultra Resin and
180 Wakar.196 ultra resin is thinner and is used for light fabrics. It is comparatively
cheaper than number 180 which is thick as well as used for darker fabrics.10 litre water
along with 1.5 kg silicone is used for 300 polo t-shirts.
Machine wash:
The garments are washed with detergents in washing machines. The detergents used
are generally specified by the buyer, generally Ariel, Surf excel and Tide are used as
detergents. The detergent must be of a non ionic base. A 50 Kg. can is issued to the
washing unit each day. 400g. detergent is used up in washing 100 garments.
The time taken for washing :
White Fabric : 10 minutes
Printed / Coloured Fabric : 5 minutes
Enzyme Wash : 20 minutes
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Bleach wash:
For white garments bleach is used to remove various types of stains. The bleaching
amount also depends upon the type of fabric used. If the fabric is light lesser quantity of
bleach is used or vice-versa.
The machines that are used are:
1. Stefab machine-25 kg capacity
2. 2 Fabcare machines-100 kg. Capacity
4 cemented baths are also used for carrying out washing operations (CPL).
After the washes the fabrics or garments are put in the hydro for about 10 minutes. This
is done to remove the soap from the garment pieces by the rapid action of water. There
are 3 hydro extractor machines (50 kg,50 kg,25 kg capacity each).
As the counting of total no. of pieces can be tiresome job for the washing operators.
Thus a single garment piece is weighed and accordingly the no of pieces are put in to
hydro machine.
The 3 hydro machines are:
2 Stefab machines - 50 kg capacity.
1 Stefab machine - 25 kg capacity
Tumble machine is also used in washing process. This machine is used to dry the
fabrics that come out from the hydro. This removes water from the fabric. The various
tumble machines are
1 Fabcare machine-100 kg capacity
2 Stefab machine -25 kg capacity
1 Stefab machine-50 kg capacity
1 Stefab machine - 120 kg.
The Time Taken for Tumble Drying :
Woven : 25 minutes
Knits : 1-1.5 hours.
Temperature :
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Woven : 35-40 degree C
Knits : 70-85 degree C
A store wise break up is sent to the washing department which gives the color wise as
well as Size wise breakup so that the washing department knows how many pieces are
sent in the particular color.
It also contains details about the style number, buyer and the shipment date. The
shipment is given so that the department knows how to prioritize what style has to be
washed first.
Thus the washing department is very essential in the overall production process of the
garment no matter how much the garment is up to the desired specification but the most
important factor is the overall look of the garment.
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Finishing
Timberland Rugby :
Washing
Thread Cutting/Ticket
Removal
Dusting
Initial checking
Buttoning
Pressing
Final Checking
Tagging
Measurement
Re-Final Checking
Folding
Poly-bag/ Sealing
Carton
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Time Taken for Finishing 1 Rugby T-Shirt
S. No. Activity Recorded Time
1 Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal 3 minute 30 seconds
2 Dusting 20 seconds
3 Initial checking 19 seconds
4 Buttoning 4 seconds
5 Pressing 1 minute 10 seconds
6 Final Checking 1 minute 45 seconds
7 Tagging 6 seconds
8 Measurement 45 seconds
9 Re-Final Checking 1 minute 10 seconds
10 Folding 12 seconds
11 Poly-bag/ Sealing 16 seconds
* Total Time 9.6 minutes
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Hollister Boxer Short :
Washing
Thread Cutting/Ticket
Removal
Initial Checking
Pressing
Final Checking
Tag Attaching
Folding
Packing
Carton
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Time Take for Finishing 1 Boxer Short
S. No. Activity Recorded Time
1 Thread Cutting/Ticket Removal 1 minute 30 seconds
3 Initial checking 40 seconds
5 Pressing 25 seconds
6 Final Checking 1 minute 15 seconds
7 Tagging 7 seconds
10 Folding 29 seconds
11 Packing 16 seconds
* Total Time 4.7 minutes
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TESTING
Testing is a critical factor in determining if the fabric and the garment will be performing
up to the desired performance in different situations. Testing is a very important aspect
of quality management. It is up to the buyer to give certain specifications for various
properties of the product under consideration and also the fabric performance
specifications for various properties.
Though the agencies where testing has to be carried out is suggested by the buyer
himself but there are certain tests which are in house. These tests are carried out to
determine if the fabric which they have outsourced is of the appropriate quality, thegarments which they have been manufacturing are undergoing certain changes which
are all because of the default in the specifications by the buyers.
the certain tests carried out are:
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1. Dimensional stability - shrinkage tests- garment shrinkage is mainly due to
laundering, dry cleaning, steaming or pressing. It occurs at three levels: fabric, yarn and
fibre. The total observed shrinkage is the resultant shrinkage at these three levels.
2. Crocking- crocking is the test so designed to determine the degree of color that may
transfer from the surface of colored textiles to other surfaces by rubbing. The washing,
dry cleaning, ironing and finishing, may affect the degree of color transfer from a fabric,
the test is usually carried out before or after such a treatment. This test is carried out
both in dry and wet conditions with the help of a crock meter.
Multi fiber is used which has the fallowing composition:
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic wool
Cotton
This fabric is used alongside the fabric to be tested to see the crocking result on
different fabrics.
3. Ph value- this test is carried out to determine the dye or soap content in a garment
piece.
4. Color fastness to washing- color fastness is the property of a dye or print that enables
it to retain its depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. The colorfastness
to washing is tested in launder meter under appropriate conditions of temperature,
bleaching and abrasive action.
Different types of reagents are used to carry out this type of tests. Also a color matching
box is present to check its appearance under different kinds of lights. The different lights
are:
daylight
A +
tube light
cool white
horizon
ultraviolet
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It is also tested against the grey scale as well the chromatic transference scale to check
the performance level.
5. Count- this test is carried out to determine the count of the yarn. This is carried out
with the help of Baisley balance.
6. Performance test o/ garments up to the required level desired there are various tests
carried out for rating the performance of the properties which are essentially required in
The garment some of these tests are carried out to see the overall strength of the
Garment.
7. Skewing - is a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are
angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric it is also
known as bias.
8. Testing for trims: trims like zippers, buttons and wash care labels are also tested so
that they perform up to the desired level of performance.
9. Button snap test- this test is carried out to see the strength of the point where the
button is attached.
Some of the Test Standards used World wide :
Fabric and Garment TestsColor Fastness Tests
No. Test Parameters Testing Standards1. Washing ISO 105 C10
BS EN ISO 105-C10IS 687,3361,764, 765IS 3417
2. Laundry ISO 105- C06 /C08BS EN ISO 105-C06 /C08AATCC 61 No. 1A-5AIS 687,3361,764, 765IS 13025
3. Perspiration ISO 105-E04, IS 9714. Dry & Wet Crocking/Rubbing ISO 105-X12,
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AATCC 8 & AATCC 165,IS 766
5. Light a) Xenon Arc (Water Cooled)ISO 105 B 02BE EN ISO 105 B02i) BWS 4 or belowii) BWS 5iii) BWS 6 or above
b) AATCC 16i) 20 Fading Units or
belowii) Each Additional 10
fading Unitsb) MBTL Method
i) Fading up to Grade 4ii) Fading Up to Grade 5
6. water ISO 105-E01BS EN ISO E01AATCC 107IS 767
7. Sea Water ISO 105 E02AATCC 106IS 690
8. Chlorinated Water ISO 105 E03BS EN ISO 105 E03AATCC 162
9. Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01AATCC 132IS 4802
10. Hot pressing ISO 105-X11AATCC 133
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IS 68911. Water Spotting ISO 105 E07
AATCC 104IS 976
12. Acid Spotting ISO 105 E 05AATCC 6IS 968
13. Alkali Spotting ISO 105 E 06AATCC 6IS 977
14. Bleaching a) HypochloriteISO 105 N01BS EN ISO 105 NO1AATCC 188IS 762
b) PeroxideISO 105 N02BS EN 105 N02AATCC 101
c) Oxidative BleachISO 105 C09BS EN ISO 105 C09AATCC 190
15. Non Chlorine Bleach AATCC 172Each Additional Wash
16. Solvent Spotting-Perchloroethylene AATCC 157
17. Scrubbing IS 1190818. Sublimation IS 97519. Mercerization 105-X04
IS 979
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Each Additional Cycle20. perspiration and Light a) ISO 105-B07
i) BW 4ii) BW 5
AATCC 125i) 20 Fading Unites or Belowii ) Each Additional 10Fading Units
21. Color fastness to artificialweathering ISO 105-B04AATCC 111,169
IS 6152