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MEDIA KIT The Woolmark Company
MEDIA KITThe Woolmark Company
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AUSTRALIAN WOOL INNOVATION
THE WOOLMARK COMPANY
The Woolmark Company and AWI operate worldwide with offices in 15 countries, with the headquarters in Sydney, Australia.
Woolmark is the iconic fibre brand symbolising the best wool in the world. Created in 1964, by Italian graphic designer Francesco Saroglia, the logo perfectly represents the softness, elegance and modernity of wool. Today it is still amongst the ten most recognised and appreciated brands in the world.
A product bearing the logo indicates that it has been independently tested as a high quality woollen product with guaranteed fibre content. The logo on a product provides consumers with an assurance of quality.
Its creation was the result of a collaboration of the world’s woolgrowers led by Australian woolgrowers and it became the independent marketing tool used to support the use of quality wool, at a time when man-
made fibres were emerging into the market. Used on over five billion products since its launch, synonymous with excellence, passion and innovation, the Woolmark logo certifies guaranteed fibre content and provides an assurance of quality promoting Australian wool to the global consumer.
Merino wool is an ancient and a precious luxury fibre that has been worn by mankind for 10,000 years, thanks to its unique natural qualities of protection from the heat and the cold, elasticity, breathability and resilience. 100% natural, Merino wool is biodegradable and renewable. And today, thanks to the developments in technological innovation, Merino wool is incredibly fine, soft next-to-skin and versatile, perfectly matching the desires of the contemporary consumers.
Merino wool will continue to evolve and look to the future as one of the finest, luxurious and most versatile of natural fibres.
Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) is a not-for-profit company which invests in research, development and marketing along the global supply chain for Australian wool – from woolgrowers through to retailers. The goal of AWI is to increase the demand for wool.
Established in 2001, AWI is funded primarily by Australian woolgrowers and the Australian Government. In 2007 AWI acquired the Woolmark business and brands. The Woolmark logo is one of the most recognised textile symbols in the world.
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10 KEY DATES
FOR WOOL OVER THE PAST 100 YEARS
1916 Upcoming French designer Gabrielle Chanel discovers an experimental collection of machine-made knitted wool called jersey created by textile manufacturer Rodier. Originally designed for men’s underwear, the fabric marks a turning point in fashion, allowing Chanel to create clothes that are comfortable, flexible and chic.
1920 By the mid 1920s the UK, with its established and expanding textile industry, is purchasing about 44 per cent of Australia’s total wool exports. However, Japan and the USA are also among Australia’s best customers. After WWI, fashion becomes more practical and women’s styles less overtly feminine. Women sport short hair, skirts above the knee and tweed car coats. Chanel, and others such as Jean Patou, adopt and embellish the androgynous style, using wool as a feature in their collections.
1947 The end of the war heralds another fashion revolution called ‘The New Look’. Launched by the House of Christian Dior, the fashion uses excessive amounts of fabric in designs as a backlash against the rations and shortages of the war years.
1954 Young designer Yves Mathieu Saint Laurent wins first and third prize in the dress category of the International Wool Secretariat competition, Paris. The following year Yves Saint Laurent is named head designer at Dior.
At the same awards, young designer Karl Lagerfeld wins first prize in the coat category. The following year Lagerfeld goes to work for designer Pierre Balmain.
1960 Britain’s role as the main buyer of Australian wool comes to an end after 150 years of dominance. Japan and the European Common Market surpass the UK as the world’s largest purchasers of Australian wool.
1964 An international identity for wool is created to increase consumer confidence and represent quality standards. Italian graphic artist Francesco Saroglia creates the Woolmark logo for the International Wool Secretariat. It is launched in Britain, the US, Japan, Holland and Belgium.
1988 World-famous designers honour the Australian wool industry by creating outfits made from Australian Merino wool, during the Australian Bicentennial Wool Collection, at the Sydney Opera House on January 31. International designers taking part include Claude Montana, Sonia Rykiel, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, Kenzo Takada, Gianni Versace, Tai and Rosita Missoni, Jean Muir and Bruce Oldfield along with Australia’s own Jill Fitzsimon, George Gross, Adele Palmer, Covers, Wendy Heather and Stuart Membery.
2008 The Woolmark Company partners with Vogue to create the Protégé project which connects the world’s best designers including Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein with protégés of their choice. The collections show in Florence in January and then at Australian Fashion Week in May.
2012 The Woolmark Company and Vogue partner in another global initiative, the International Woolmark Prize. Fifty-two nominees from around the world have the opportunity to be recognised by a global panel of experts with the final prize awarding the most notable designer with commercialisation in the world’s top boutiques including Harvey Nichols in London and Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
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GLOBAL WOOL PRODUCTION
The Australian wool industry has come a long way since 1788 when the first sheep stepped upon Australian shores with the First Fleet. Away from their native Spain, the Merino changed due to differing climate conditions and Australian sheep were soon noted for their magnificent fleece, being extremely fine and white in appearance.
As quickly as 1830 the Australian sheep population had grown to two million. Britain’s demand for the world’s highest quality natural fibre - Australian Merino wool – was met by ever-expanding flocks. Eventually Australia held more sheep than any other country. For the over two centuries Australia has ridden on the back of the Golden Fleece and wool still remains one of Australia’s largest exports. Australia is the world’s leading exporter of wool.
Wool is very much back in fashion, as indicated by the increased stocking levels and sales of wool products by retailers this past Autumn/Winter season. The increased demand for wool in the fashion markets is expected to filter down over the next 18-24 months into high street retail stores.
Probably the most significant driver for building the demand for Australian wool is the growing size and affluence of the Chinese domestic market. China also increased its imports of Australian wool by 8% in 2011 which makes Australia the largest supplier of wool to China, with a share of up to 75% in the past three seasons.
China has always had two of the three key triggers for mass consumption of wool: they have always had the suitable climate and large population; they now have the third trigger which is wealth. China is the second largest luxury market in the world. The country consumes over a quarter of the world’s global luxury products; Chinese luxury purchasing will surpass the USA by 2015. The tailored men’s apparel market is experiencing exponential growth and it is not anticipated to slow down.
One of the contributing influences driving the demand for wool at a consumer level is the rapidly growing consumer demand for products consistent with a Lifestyle Of Health And Sustainability (LOHAS) – the so-called ‘LOHAS consumer’. Consumers are insisting on greater integrity and authenticity in the products they buy with an expectation that they are environmentally friendly. As a natural, biodegradable and renewable fibre, wool is well placed to take advantage of this growing consumer base.
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BIOGRAPHIES
Rob LangtryChief Strategy & Global Marketing Advisor, AWI/Woolmark International.
Rob Langtry was and is the architect behind the planning and implementation of AWI/Woolmark’s strategies.
Currently the strategy and marketing head of Australia’s wool industry R & D and Marketing company, Rob has over 35 years experience as a brand strategist and management consultant. He has both breadth and depth of expertise in defining, building and managing strategy, and its implementation for a range of new products, existing brands, segments and markets, from an agency perspective and client based roles.
He previously held Board or senior management positions with Publicis, Euro RSCG, McCann-Erickson, J Walter Thompson, Rothmans and Colgate, managing teams of from 30 to 2,500. His experience covers the USA, China, Southeast Asia, UK, EU and he has consulted on global and local programs for a wide range of clients, including Nestlé, Unilever, Reckitt Benckiser, Coca-Cola, Levi-Strauss and others. He has held consulting and advisory positions to the Royal Agricultural Society, The Government of Indonesia, Hemoco Kuwait, Netherlands Television and others. An accomplished writer he holds several awards, including PATA Gold awards for Tourism Marketing.
Stuart McCulloughChief Executive Officer, AWI
Stuart McCullough has over 20 years’ experience in international business planning, product development management, marketing and sales strategy, strategic alliance negotiation as well as corporate communication experience.
During the past ten years, Stuart has worked in a variety of roles at AWI where he has been responsible for leading strategic development, transition, establishment and growth of several AWI business units as well as core initiatives.
Responsibilities included directing new product innovation and retail commercialisation; initiating, launching and managing the North American AWI operation; leading global shareholders communications through complex animal welfare issues; and recently acting as the Strategic Advisor to the AWI Senior Executive in times of needed change. He was appointed CEO in 2010.
He started his career in wool as a Jackeroo on a sheep farm and later moved on to business management roles engaged in all aspects of the wool producing and demand generating pipeline: wool classer, wool testing, international wool exporter, trader and buyer, and global sales management roles.
AUSTRALIAN MERINO WOOL
The Australian Merino sheep derives its name and basic appearance from the famed Royal Merino Flocks of Spain, having been introduced to Australian by European settlers more than 200 years ago.
Australia is the world’s largest producer of Merino wool thanks to the 76.4 million sheep shorn in 2011/12. The Australian wool clip is particularly suited to use in apparel, with 53% of annual production in 2011/12 being 20.5 micron or less. In comparison, a human hair is 100 microns in diameter. Such fineness means Australian Merino wool is flexible and softer than other types of wool and that the fibres bend more easily, reducing the sensation of prickle associated with some wool garments. The finer a wool’s diameter, the softer and more crimped it becomes. Crimp, the wave in the wool staple, contributes to the bulk and the lightness of wool fabrics.
Regarded by many as the softest and most lavish natural fibre in the world, the superfine, high quality Australian Merino fibres allow designers to create garments that offer ultimate comfort, style and resilience. Soft and sensuous, Australian Merino wool garments have unsurpassed natural drape, elasticity and breathability. Merino wool garments also provide protection against both the heat and cold, making them perfect for trans-seasonal dressing.
merino.com
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SHEEP Australian Merino wool production begins with the breeding and selection of Merino sheep with fine fleece. Sheep live on sunlight, water and grass.
SHEARING Shearers clip the wool fleece from the sheep. A professional shearer can remove the entire fleece in under five minutes. Any vegetation is removed from the fleece and the fleece is graded according to its quality.
SCOURING Fleeces are washed to remove dirt, dust, sweat and wool grease. The wool grease is recovered, and from this, lanolin is extracted which can be used for cosmetics and skin care products.
TOPMAKING When the wool fibre comes out of the scour, the fibres are in a randomised formation. In order to spin the fibres, they must be straightened and laid parallel to one another. The processes of carding (removing the vegetable matter and dirt to open up the scoured wool fibres) combing (removing the short fibres and any foreign matters) and gilling (finer and more refined combing) is used to arrange the fibres in an organised and parallel form. The processes conducted between cleaning the wool at the scour and spinning are collectively known as ‘topmaking’.
SPINNING Spinning is the process of inserting twist into assemblies of fibres (in top form) to make yarns. There are three common types of yarn in the wool industry:
• Woollen yarns: are hairy and contain shorter fibres; they are normally used for sweaters and blankets.
• Worsted yarns: use longer fibres to produce smoother yarns which are used in products like suits.
• Semi Worsted yarns: halfway between woollen and worsted spinning- they can be used for finer, smoother knitwear.
KNITTING The process of interlooping yarns across the width of fabric to produce the shape of the garment.
WEAVING Forming of fabric by interlacing long threads (yarns) passing in one direction with others at a right angle to them.
MAKING UP Individual panels of garments are cut from flat fabrics and are sewn together to form the garment.
FABRIC FINISHING Woven fabrics and circular knitted fabrics go through many processes following fabric formation to make them suitable for end use. Processes are carried out to wash, flatten, reduce hairiness, increase hairiness, stretch, consolidate, and stabilize fabrics for end use. These processes improve the appearance, drape, feel and performance of the fabrics.
DYEING The process of colouring the wool. Different finished effects are achieved by dyeing at the different stages of processing. Dyes can be natural or synthetic and colouration effects can also be introduced through printing.
READY FOR SALE After pressing, the garments are ticketed and labeled so consumers know how to care for their new Merino wool garment.
THE STORY OF MERINO WOOL
FROM SHEEP TO RETAILER
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THE WOOL MARKET
• Australia stands as the world’s largest producer of wool, producing 245 million kilograms of fleece in 2011/2012 worth around AUD $3.1 billion.
• The Australian flock of over 73.1 million sheep is composed of approximately 75% Merinos.
• In the western world, consumers spend around USD $75 billion annually on wool apparel.
* (1 micron equals 1 thousandth of a millimetre in diameter). AWI Wool Production Forecasting Committee: September report. Report quotes Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA).
Wool production per country (per capita):
• Australia: 23%• China: 14%• New Zealand: 14%• India: 4%• South Africa: 3%• United Kingdom: 3%• Argentina: 2% • Uruguay: 2%• Russia: 2%• Kazakhstan: 2%• Other countries: 31%
Global wool production is approximately 1.05 billion kilograms per year.
Global wool usage per sector currently stands at:
• Industrial use: 18%• Interior use: 29%• Apparel use: 53%
Wool consumption
USA
Italy
Germany
Russsia
China
Korea
Japan
Australia & New Zealand
United Kingdom
DEFINING QUALITY
The quality of wool is determined by the following factors, fibre diameter, crimp, yield, colour, and staple strength.
Largely wool is divided into wool suitable for apparel/clothing and wool suitable for interiors and other uses.
Apparel – Merino wool - Fibre diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining quality and price. Any wool finer than 25 micron can be used for garments.
Interiors – Crossbred wools - Stronger wool primarily used for carpets, rugs, upholstery where the type of wool, sheep breed, colour and texture is highly relevant to the finished product.
Wool is separated into grades based on the measurement of the wool’s diameter in microns and also its style. These grades may vary depending on the breed or purpose of the wool.
For example:
• Every year Australian Merino sheep produce a new fleece, making Merino wool a renewable fibre source. Australian woolgrowers actively work to improve efficiency and care for natural resources, endeavoring to make the Australian wool industry sustainable for future generations.
• Ten percent of the world’s landfill is discarded clothing: about a billion tons a year. If discarded clothes are not composed of a natural fibre they will remain for thousands of years.
• Merino wool garments last for years and if the garment is disposed of, it is bio-degradable.
COMPARISONS TO OTHER RAW MATERIALS
Extra fine Australian Merino wool vs cotton:
• Merino wool is more pliable and can be extended five times more than cotton.
• Merino wool has better natural odour and moisture management properties than cotton.
<15.5 - Ultrafine Merino15.6 -18.5 - Superfine Merino18.6 - 20 - Fine Merino20.1 - 23 - Medium Merino23 – 26 - Strong Merino27 – 29 – Fine Crossbred30 – 33 – Medium Crossbred34> – Coarse Crossbred/Strong wool
In addition to clothing, wool is used for blankets, outerwear, interiors, duvets, carpets, hand knitting yarns, horse rugs, saddle cloths, carpeting, felt, insulation and upholstery. Wool felt covers piano hammers, and it is used to absorb odours and noise in heavy machinery and stereo speakers. Ancient Greeks lined their helmets with felt, and Roman legionnaires used breastplates made of wool felt.
Wool is an animal protein, and as such it can be used as a soil fertilizer, being a slow release source of nitrogen and readymade amino acids.
• Merino wool is far more fire resistant than cotton, which is a cellulose and burns rapidly.
Fine Australian Merino wool vs silk
• Silk has three times the stiffness and half the extensibility of flexible Merino wool.
• Merino wool has better moisture management properties than silk.
• Silk is best known for its sleek and shiny appearance, a look which can be recreated in Australian Merino wool garments.
Extra fine Australian Merino wool vs cashmere
• Cashmere is a shorter, low crimp version of Merino wool; making it difficult to control in the spinning process.
• In comparison with Australian Merino wool, cashmere is extremely inefficiently produced; each goat produces only around 50gms per year and requires extensive de-hairing (which breaks fibres and is expensive).
THE ECO CREDENTIALS OF MERINO WOOL
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A BRIEF HISTORY ON WOOL
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Wool cloth has been spun and woven by the tribes of Northern Europe since the time before Christ. Roman emperors cherished British woollen cloth ‘so fine it was comparable with a spider’s web’. The invasion of the Saxons in the fifth century came close to destroying the wool industry that had been built in Britain, but the industry did prevail. In 1331 King Edward III encouraged the settlement of Flemish master weavers in England. They and their descendants were to play a part in the final ascendancy of English cloth. Edward’s approach with the Flemish master weavers added to the international reputation English cloth was quickly achieving. England was taken from being a raw wool exporter to being a manufacturer and exporter of fine wool cloth in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The British wool industry soon expanded to incorporate international realms; towards the end of the 17th century six Merino sheep arrived in the South African cape that were intended for the Dutch King – however it was not for two years that the Dutch King sent a letter requesting the sheep be sent onto him. Fortunately for the wool trade of Africa, the garrison followed the message to the letter and left behind a large flock of the sheep’s progeny. When the British occupied the Cape, Redcoats commandeered the Merino flocks; many were sold to ships bound for Australia, and in 1805 King George sold Merino sheep to Australian John McCarthur to take back to Sydney. The great Australian wool trade was effectively established shortly after in 1807 with the first bale of Australian wool sent to Britain with the intention of commercial sale. At William Thompson’s mill in Yorkshire in 1808 Australian wool was woven into a piece of cloth from which a black suit was tailored. The owner of the wool, Reverend Samuel Marsden wore this suit when he was first introduced to King George III. The evolution of the Merino sheep purchased from King George III in Australia resulted in a change in the wool fibre; in 1829 one of the reverend’s Saxon rams yielded a fleece which was acclaimed by London wool buyers as ‘the softest and finest fleece of wool’. By 1870, Australia became the world’s number one wool producer surpassing Britain. The long, fine fibres of the Australian Merino were ideal to meet the demands of new industrialised spinning and weaving machines, enabling the production of lighter, softer wool fabrics. During the long pastoral boom at the end of the 19th century, the Australian sheep population grew to over 100 million, and wool continued to dominate Australia’s exports for many decades. Today, although the sheep population has declined across all countries that are the main areas for wool production: Australia, Britain, New Zealand, South Africa and Argentina, global initiatives to increase demand and positioning of the fibre, as well as recognition by consumers of wool’s natural and renewable qualities, are keeping the industry supported and creating a renewed interest in the fibre for future generations.
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AUSTRALIAN SHEEP BREEDS
Australian wool, with its superior comfort and durability, unrivalled quality and style has been developed naturally by generations of grazier families working tirelessly to develop a premium natural fibre. The precise combination of sheep breeds and pastures produce the world’s most dynamic natural fibre - Australian wool.
In Australia the sheep breeds can be split into three main groups. Close to 72% are pure-bred Merinos farmed principally for their bright white and extremely soft fleece. It is estimated 13% are first cross ewes (Merino/Border Leicester cross) used to mother high quality prime lambs. Other Merino-derived, dual-purpose breeds, have been bred in high rainfall areas for the production of wool.
The Australian Merino sheep can be classified into four main distinct types according to the wool it produces - superfine, fine, medium and strong. Each is bred to suit a particular set of climatic conditions, and each type is characterised by a large quantity of soft-handling wool grown.
Fine and superfine Merinos are found in the northern and southern tablelands of New South Wales, the western districts of Victoria and the midlands district of Tasmania. The super-fine wool Merino produces wool that is of excellent colour, soft handling and dense, with a fibre diameter of 18 microns. The fine-wool Merino possesses a bright, white, dense fleece. Fibre diameter is 19 microns with a staple length of about 75mm.
Medium-wool Merinos are found throughout New South Wales, Queensland, Victoria and Western Australia. They are grown primarily for wool production. Their wool is almost totally absorbed by the textile trade. Their fleece is heavy and soft handling, of good colour with a fibre diameter of 20-22 microns.
Strong-wool Merinos are most prominent in western New South Wales, South Australia and Western Australia. The strong-wool Merino produces a heavy seven-to-eight kilogram fleece with a fibre diameter of 23-25 microns.
Poll Merino is a relatively new breeding development. Poll rams have been selected and mated to Merino ewes and selection continues for the quality of pollness. The result is a pure Merino without horns. Poll Merinos are highly fertile and easy to handle and care for.
The Fonthill Merino was evolved by crossing American-bred Rambouillet Merino rams with a fine-wool Saxon strain of Merino. The major objective was to increase the genetic potential of an easy-care type sheep to produce wool. Fonthill ewes produce 20-22 micron wool.
The Booroola Merino was originally developed on the Southern Tablelands of New South Wales and is the subject of a continuing developmental programme initiated by Australia’s Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO). Booroolas have a fertility rate as high as any breed in the world. Booroolas also have the ability to breed at most times of the year, thus extending the breeding season.
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THE NATURAL QUALITIES OF MERINO WOOL
BREATHABLE • Merino wool has a large capacity to absorb moisture
vapour and sweat next to the skin making it extremely breathable.
MULTI–CLIMATIC • Merino wool is active, reacting to changes in one’s
body temperature to keep you warm when it’s cold but releasing heat and moisture when it’s hot.
ELASTIC • The natural elasticity and crimp of the Merino fibre
means it stretches with the wearer, but then returns to its natural shape, so there is less chance of garments sagging or losing their shape.
NATURAL • Australian Merino is a natural fibre. The Merino fleece
has evolved to produce a fibre that has become one of the most effective natural forms of all-weather protection known to man.
BIODEGRADABLE • When a natural Merino wool fibre is disposed of in soil,
it takes only a few years to decompose. Most synthetics on the other hand, are extremely slow to degrade.
RENEWABLE• Every year Australian Merino sheep produce a new
fleece, making Merino wool a renewable fibre source. Australian woolgrowers actively work to improve efficiency and care for natural resources, endeavouring to make the Australian wool industry sustainable for future generations.
STATIC RESISTANT • Merino wool is much less likely to cling to ones body
than other fabrics, due to its moisture absorption qualities which prevents the build up of static electricity.
FIRE RESISTANT • A fabric made entirely of wool doesn’t readily catch
fire. Even if it does, it burns slowly and self-extinguishes when the source of the flame is removed.
UV PROTECTION • Merino wool has a naturally high UV protection,
which is much higher than most synthetics and cotton.
STAIN RESISTANT • Merino fibre’s have a natural protective layer which
prevents stains from being absorbed, they also pick up less dust as they are static resistant.
MACHINE WASHABLE • Recent innovations mean Merino wool garments
are no longer hand-wash only, many Merino wool garments can now be machine-washed and tumble dried.
SWEAT/MOISTURE REMOVAL • Merino wool is more effective than synthetics at
absorbing sweat next to the skin and releasing it as vapour, keeping you cool and dry during exertion.
ODOUR REDUCING • Merino wool removes and locks in the odour
molecules from sweat into the fibre, which are then removed on washing.
HANDLE & DRAPE • Australian Merino wool has excellent natural drape
due to the fineness of the fibres as well as its natural elasticity and resilience.
COLOUR • Merino wool has wonderful hue, and when dyed
a Merino wool garment is colourfast, as the dye penetrates through to the core of the fibre and does not fade with washing.
FASHIONABLE • Australian Merino wool comes in an abundance
of textures, structures, weaves and weights. It is adaptable, flexible and tailors easily.
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CARING FOR MERINO WOOL GARMENTS
EMPTY POCKETS Before storing or washing, empty pockets and remove belts, jewellery and other accessories to avoid sagging and bulging. Store with closures zipped or buttoned.
BRUSHING Brush garments lengthwise after wearing to remove surface soil and dust. This also revives the nap of the fabric.
AIRING To remove cigarette or food odours, lay garments flat on a bed or towel for an hour. Woven garments may be hung in the fresh air on a suitable hanger.
HANG WOVENS, FOLD KNITS Woven garments should be hung on shaped or padded coat hangers. Knitted garments should be gently folded and stored in drawers.
RESTING Rest garments for 24 hours before wearing again. The natural resilience of Merino allows it to shed wrinkles and return to its original shape.
REFRESHING Merino garments can be refreshed after unpacking or wearing by hanging them in a steamy bathroom. Moisture from the steam will remove wrinkles.
DRYING If Merino gets wet, dry the garment at room temperature, away from direct heat or sunlight.
IRONING Many woollen garments do not require ironing, but very smooth fabrics may look better if pressed. Always use steam when pressing Merino. Set your iron on the wool setting and avoid ironing fabric when it’s totally dry.
LIGHTWEIGHT FABRIC CARE Lighter Merino fabrics may take a little longer to shed their creases. Remove wrinkles by ironing with a damp cloth or steam iron on a warm iron/dot 2 setting.
LONG-TERM STORAGE Since food stains and body oils attract moths, you should ensure your garment is clean before packing it away in airtight bags or containers. Use mothballs but don’t put them directly on the fabric.
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PROJECT MANAGEMENT
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