cosmetics

Your Honest Guide to

Natural Skincare

Is there any subject in the beauty industry today more confusing than natural skincare?

Walk down an aisle in your local drugstore and it seems every second product boasts a “natural” label or some type of “natural” claim. Why is this? In a nutshell, because Canada has no legal definition for what constitutes a “natural” ingredient or claim, beauty companies are free to use the term as they like. And “natural” is a great marketing word today that increases sales. Legally, anyone can paste a “natural” sticker on a product regardless of what is inside. Understandably, this is causing great confusion at the beauty counter. Consumers and beauty advisors alike have no idea where to find truly natural skincare products.

“NATURAL” CONFUSION

The honest truth of the matter is that we now live in an increasingly polluted world. And this pollution is affecting our health and the condition of our skin. Just look at the rates of adult acne and skin sensitivities these days. Scientists have proven that over 60% of the products you apply to your face and body get absorbed into the bloodstream including moisturizers, sunscreens and anti-aging products. Because of this, many consumers are looking for natural alternatives to synthetic formulas. They feel better applying natural ingredients to their bodies. You’ll see from the statistics that follow that thousands of consumers are making this change leading to a growing segment in the Canadian beauty industry. It’s expected to grow at 15 to 30 percent per year. That’s far faster than traditional skincare and beauty segments.

This guide to natural skincare is meant to offer honest, concise information that you can use in your everyday lives. From defining “natural” to exploring product efficacy, we hope it will help you make better-informed choices and clear up some of the “natural” confusion.

Dave Dave Lackie . Editor . Cosmetics magazine

POTENTIAL RISKS

The Natural Products Association in the United States, a 72-year-old, not-for-profit organization committed to the natural products industry has identified ten ingredients that they believe could have long-term human health risks. These items include synthetic silicone or petroleum compounds. It’s important to note that Health Canada monitors all skincare ingredients including these ten and prohibits any that have proven health risks. Still, the NPA believes that it is best to avoid products that contain the following:

1. Parabens. These are synthetic preservatives that are potential endocrine disrupters that can affect our hormone levels.

2. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Think of these as harsh cleansing agents that can potentially damage the lipid layer of your skin and cause irritation. By stripping the skin’s natural oil levels which act as a first-line barrier, viruses can more easily enter into the body.

3. Petrolatum/Mineral Oil/Paraffin. These are non-renewable byproducts of crude oil that contain potentially dangerous impurities.

4. Chemical Sunscreens (Oxybenzone). These synthetic sunscreens get absorbed into the skin and can potentially disrupt hormone balances. They are also suspected to cause some free-radical production.

5. Glycols. Think of these petroleum-derived synthetic chemicals as magnets. They are thought to be able to draw other chemicals into the bloodstream.

6. Phthalates. Some scientists believe these synthetic fragrance compounds to be potential toxins.

7. Ethoxylated ingredients like Sodium Myreth Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate, PEGs or PPGs. Ingredients that are made in part with petrochemical ethylene oxide can result in 1,4 Dioxane, a trace contaminant that is classified as a possible carcinogen. Ethoxylated ingredients are the accidental byproducts of the ethoxylation process so they are never listed on an ingredient label.

8. Ethanolamines like MEA/DEA/TEA. These are foam and viscosity-boosting ingredients that can interact with other ingredients to form nitrosamines, a known carcinogen.

9. Synthetic Polymers (PVP/Acrylates). These synthetic stabilizers may contain residual PAHs (plycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), thought to be the most widespread organic pollutant.

10. Formaldehyde Donors (DMDM Hydrantoin/Diazolidinyl Urea/Methylisothiazolinone). These are preservatives that degrade over time potentially releasing formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.

WHAT IS NATURAL?

According to Health Canada, the governmental department that monitors all skincare and beauty products in Canada, there is no legal definition for “natural” skincare products in Canada.

As long as a company does not knowingly deceive the public with it’s labellng, there is no legal guideline that the company must follow to use the term. Beauty companies must include a detailed list of ingredients on each product package listing ingredients from largest percentage to least. And it must provide testing results to prove that it is safe for Canadians. If Health Canada spots any known dangerous ingredients, it will refuse to allow the products to be sold in this country.

A New Definition for “Natural”Burt’s Bees, working with the Natural Products Association,

led the initiative to define the word natural. The definition is two-fold: ingredients that come from purposeful, renewable and plentiful sources found in nature such as flora, fauna and minerals. And, the products must be made with minimal processing that does not use synthetic or harsh chemicals or otherwise dilute the purity of the ingredients.

When Is Non-Natural Acceptable?Non-natural ingredients are only acceptable when there is no viable natural alternative ingredient available and only when there are absolutely no suspected potential human health risks.

Natural Versus OrganicOrganic ingredients are a big trend these days. The term “organic” really does apply to growing plants and flowers without any pesticides – a very beneficial process, especially for food. In personal care products, it is important to note that a product that is 70 percent organic can still contain 30 percent artificial ingredients that are potentially harmful. Many scientists believe it is more beneficial to use 100 percent natural ingredients that pose no potential health risk to consumers and do not contain harmful byproducts than a product that contains some organic ingredients. It’s best to read both organic and natural labels very carefully and ask questions about how these products are processed.

THE NATURAL SKINCARE MARKET

Just how big is the natural personal care market today?

That’s a tough question to answer. Since the category is so new, there is little data available. Market Research firm Kline Group estimates the total sales of natural products to be approximately 3 percent of the market. Based on that number, the current Canadian market for natural products would be about $120 million. That total is expected to double in the next five years moving from niche category to mainstream. While still a small category now, natural beauty companies are posting annual gains of anywhere from 14 to 30 percent, far ahead of the industry average. And retailers are making more space for natural products in store.

Packaged Facts, a market researcher publisher in the United States agrees with this analysis. According to its most recent study, sales of natural and organic personal care products in the United States grew from $2 billion in 2001 to $6.1 billion in 2006. The firm predicts that sales will top $10.2 billion by 2012. The company’s retail analysts believe there are two factors driving these sales: the first is public concern over environmental crises, fair trade practices and the fear of possible cancer-causing chemicals. The second is an aging baby boomer population that is looking to prolong health.

“Overall retail sales of natural cosmetics and toiletries in Canada account for a smaller share of overall market sales, although demand is growing, especially among younger consumers,” says Euromonitor International’s Lauren Beth. “Demand is likely to grow further as Canadians become more aware of the impact of the chemical compounds used in various consumer products on their health and environment. New regulations that require manufacturers to list all the ingredients in the products on product labels will likely further boost consumer confidence and provide more information regarding the content of products with natural claims.”

Estimated sales for natural skincare products in Canada are $120 million annually. That number is expected to double within five years.

Kline Study 2008

THE NATURAL STANDARD

Last summer, Burt’s Bees commissioned research firm Yankelovich Partners Inc. to survey a broad spectrum of American woman regarding product standards for natural personal care products like cleansers and moisturizers. Here are the rather shocking results:

Over 78% of women believed the natural skincare industry was regulated and 97% thought it should be. (The industry is not regulated at this time.)

83% of those surveyed thought there should be one meaning for personal care products labelled “natural.”

86% agreed that there should be a symbol to certify a natural personal care product.

66% of women thought personal care products labelled “natural” should contain at least 95% natural ingredients.

86% had no idea of the risk associated

92%88%89% with glycol.

Consumer Confusion

With these results in hand, Burt’s Bees then invited a group of like-minded natural skincare companies and the Natural Products Association to create a clear definition for a “natural” beauty product. They decided on the following criteria:

Setting the Natural Standard

1 Any natural personal care product must contain at least 95% truly natural ingredients.

2 There can be no ingredients with any potential suspected human health risks within an allowable 5%.

3 You can not use any processes that significantly or adversely alter the purity/effect of the natural ingredients.

“Natural Products Association Certified” seal

This seal is the new certification seal controlled by the Natural Product Association in the United States. Companies that comply with the above guidelines will have permission to use this seal on packaging. Expect to see the first seals appear on products this fall from Weleda, Trilogy Fragrances, Farmaesthetics, Badger,

Aubrey Organics and Burt’s Bees with more to follow. It is designed to

help consumers quickly identify honestly natural products.

For more information, visit www.TheNaturalSeal.org.

Bee SmartAbout Beauty

When you read the word “natural” on a label, who decides what that means? Burt’s Bees knows that most women (a whopping 97%) believe natural products should be regulated. So they’ve answered the call. By working with several leading natural personal care companies and the Natural Products Association to develop a universally recognized Natural Standard and Seal, they are going to make shopping for natural products a whole lot easier. Get to know the buzzwords on the product label, so you know what you’re buying is really natural. It’s that simple.

Bee Educated. Ingredients in synthetic based products can contain contaminants. Instead, replenish and moisturize naturally with products containing antioxidant-rich ingredients like pomegranate.

Bee Wise.Harsh chemicals in some body lotions

can irritate your skin. Instead, nourish and moisturize naturally

with milk and honey.

A GUIDE TO READING LABELSNatural, or not so much?

Spot the real thing easily with this tip card next time you shop for natural personal care.

1 One natural ingredient in a product doesn’t make it all-natural.Ingredient order on a label is an indication of the quantity of that ingredient. Look to see what percent natural the product is. The “percent natural bar” on Burt’s Bees products makes it easy to see how natural their products are.

2 Be wary of trademarked names using “Natural.” Products with “natural” in the name don’t always contain natural ingredients.

3 Beware of the language. Just because an ingredient has a long or scientifi c sounding name doesn’t mean it’s a chemical. Find out more information about ingredients online at burtsbees.com or at public information sites such as cosmeticsdatabase.com.

4 Watch for phrases like “nature-inspired” or “made with” natural or organic ingredients. This kind of language allows manufacturers to position their products as natural or organic without having to include high levels of natural or organic ingredients.

5 There are certain ingredients that should never be used in a product labeled “natural.” Watch for: Parabens, Sulfates (Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate), Petrochemicals (Petrolatum/Mineral Oil/Paraffi n), Chemical Sunscreens (Oxybenzone/Avobenzone), and Phthalates.

BURTSBEES_SUPPLEMENT.indd 17 7/4/2008 9:54:12 AM

DO NATURAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS ACTUALLY

WORK?

Do natural skincare products really work?

Besides the obvious question about potentially harmful ingredients, the biggest question regarding natural skincare products is do they really work? As recent as five years ago, many natural skincare creams had the consistency of glue and smelled even worse. And the efficacy in many cases didn’t match traditional beauty brands. But scientists such as Celeste Lutario, who specialize in natural formulas at Burt’s Bees are making great strides in both performance and texture. She was most recently the research and development manager for Chanel skincare and she’s brought that expertise to the natural skincare category with great results.“The first thing my girlfriends ask is do natural skincare products work?” laughs Celeste. “And that’s the big misconception out there right now: If it’s natural, it doesn’t work as well or isn’t as aesthetically pleasing. I can tell you we’ve been pretty successful at getting parity with mass brands on the market recently. In fact, we just did a test yesterday where we looked at all our categories against natural, pseudo-natural and mass market brands. And the majority of our products hit parity with popular mass market brands. There were only two exceptions: One is in haircare because there are some ingredients that we call quaternary compounds or ‘quats’ (conditioning agents of haircare) and those aren’t made completely naturally yet. If a quat is not used in a hair product, the hair has the consistency of straw or a bird’s nest. There is no natural alternative for that

“Researchers have proven that approximately 60% of skincare products get absorbed into the body.”

ingredient so we have to make our product slightly synthetic. The second one is suncare. Because titanium and zinc are the only natural suncare ingredients, when you use them you get some whiteness to the product which affects the aesthetics. So those are really the only two products we haven’t hit parity for benefit and aesthetics to mass market synthetic brands. We get the same quality.”

How natural ingredients interact with the skin“We haven’t tested this completely yet, but we know that the skin accepts natural ingredients better than synthetic ones,” explains Celeste.

“Think of it this way: the way a plant survives is by carefully balancing all the minerals, vitamins and antioxidants that it contains. So when you use a plant in a natural skincare product, those ingredients stay balanced. Your own skin recognizes this balance and will accept it much more readily than a synthetic version. The way the synthetic cosmetic industry does it is they mimic one of those pieces found in the plant. They’ll look and say ‘Oh, those AHAs get rid of wrinkles. Let’s find out that chemical makeup, mimic it, concentrate it and use it in a product.’ The issue with this method is the body wants to stay balanced. As soon as you put that concentrated material on your skin, the body feels it is out of balance so it almost feels it is hurt. It will immediately start producing other chemicals that it normally won’t to compensate for that concentration. That’s why when AHAs first came out, you saw a lot of redness. When you apply synthetic AHAs on the skin, it’s almost like a little burn. The body feels it’s being burned and hurt so it starts sending all these healing chemicals to that area. So then it heals the skin. Then most people repeat this process every day. And the skin never feels it is in balance. Over time, you may actually be hurting your skin.”

Evaluating Potential Long-Term Health Risks

Properly identifying ingredients with potential long-term health risks is an ongoing process. Researchers around the world in laboratories and universities are constantly testing ingredients and how they react in the body. The top natural skincare brands are constantly monitoring medical journals and toxicology reports that publish the results to make sure they are using the safest possible natural ingredients. (Health Canada also monitors these journals and studies.) Europe is far more stringent than other regions when it comes to ingredients with potential long-term health risks, so any change in European regulation is carefully analyzed. You’ll notice that the best brand will adjust their formulas as soon as any ingredient in a product shows any kind of possible harm.

High-tech skincare brands are pushing the limits of anti-aging technology today by formulating products that penetrate deeper into the skin and actually work to manipulate skin cells and even DNA. Nanotechnology is a prime example. Scientists are now experimenting with how to change strands of DNA to slow the aging process and even reverse it. And while this science offers great potential results, it also ignores the intelligence of the body’s own systems. Can this manipulation cause potential long-term damage? “My theory is that this can cause harm because of the way it is manipulating the body,” says Ms. Lutrario. “When you start to get into very detailed technology where you get into the blood stream and you’re manipulating on how the body reacts to something, the potential for something to go wrong is much higher. The cosmetics industry over the next ten years is going to have very significant scientific breakthroughs. They want to manipulate the body so that it doesn’t age. When you start dealing with that, in my opinion, you always have dormant cells that have the potential to go haywire. And when you start messing with these things, the potential is greater. I’m not saying it is going to happen. But the potential is there.”

Natural skincare companies look at skincare from a very different perspective.

They want to make the skin healthier so it looks better. These natural chemists focus on the lower layers of the skin where the cells are being produced and ask themselves how can they make everything healthy? They want to do everything they can to make the cells fully moisturized and ensure they have the proper chemical makeup. So, 28 days later when those cells make it to the skin’s surface, they create this beautiful radiance. “If you keep everything moisturized and nourished, the wrinkles will go away.” Wrinkles come from unhealthy cells.

HIGH-TECH VERSUS NATURAL SKINCARE

WHAT GOES ON, GOES IN

Skin cells take about six weeks to progress from the lower layers of the skin to the surface. And skincare chemists want to keep those cells as nourished, hydrated and healthy as possible throughout their life. This results in beautifully radiant skin.

The most damaging factors for skin are sun damage and free radicals that can destroy the cells. So you’ll notice that natural skincare products will contain antioxidants, essential oils with the proper balance of vitamins, minerals and amino acids. Chemists will choose the best essential oils for a specific purpose. Remember, approximately 60% of what is applied to the skin gets absorbed into the lower layers of the skin.

THE BURT’S BEES STORY

Burt’s Bees is a natural skincare brand that has garnered an almost fanatical customer following from its first stellar natural skincare product: a lip balm formulated with natural beeswax and infused with a hint of peppermint.

The company’s sincere commitment to the environment and the natural purity of its products is applauded around the world, but it’s the people behind the brand who demonstrate a unique passion, creativity and yes, a little craziness that explains why this company has become a natural phenomenon.

In 1984, a struggling artist and single mother by the name of Roxanne Quimby had just been fired from her third part-time waitressing job and was looking for a way to support herself and her three kids. She

liked to frequent summer craft fairs and made some pocket change by buying low and selling high. One day, she met a beekeeper named Burt Shavitz who owned 30 beehives and was making a good income selling honey at these fairs from the back

of his pickup truck. Roxanne was quite taken with Burt and volunteered to help with his bees as a way to get to know him better. The pair enjoyed each other’s company and spent the summer together. One day, Roxanne discovered stacks of beeswax in the honey house that Burt had been storing for years. “He suggested I make some candles which I did and took them over to the local Junior High School in Dover-Foxcroft where we sold them at the 8th annual Christmas Craft Fair and Bake Sale for three dollars a pair,” says Roxanne. “By the end of the day, we’d taken in $200 and we knew our business venture was bound for glory.” By the end of the first year, the pair was making $20,000 from their candles.

In 1989, hip New York boutique Zona ordered hundreds of candles so Burt and Roxanne quickly hired 40 employees and set up shop in an abandoned bowling alley. It was during this time, that Roxanne found a

19th century almanac of homemade personal care products that forged the future direction of Burt’s Bees. By 1991, the company was making over half a million candles per year along with natural soaps and some

perfumes. It was at this time, they came up with the idea to add lipbalm to their lineup.

“From the very beginning, my sister put a unique twist on everything she did,” says Renee Quimby, Roxanne’s sister. “She’d make a candle in the shape of a vegetable then wrap it up in leaves and tie it with vines. It was those little touches that really excited her customers.” Renee worked for her sister from the very beginning, setting up displays and pouring candles with Burt in Roxanne’s kitchen. “Roxanne really understood how to create an environment from the very beginning. She’d set up these displays with different products – some for babies, an area for candles and even products for pets. I remember some of the really crazy products she made. She baked cupcakes made of flour and water and sprinkled birdseed on top. She called them bird cupcakes. And to go with those were tins filled with peanut butter and sprinkled with seeds called ‘bird butter.’” Customers really balked at the idea of cat

One day, she met a beekeeper named Burt Shavitz who

owned 30 beehives and was making a good income selling honey at

these fairs from the back of his pickup

truck.

cookies, but as with everything the pair made, they sold out by end of the day. “We soon had customers who’d come every week to see what crazy new idea Burt’s Bees would be selling today. Even back then, there was a buzz around the brand.”

By 1993, business had grown to such a size that the pair knew they had to relocate to larger premises.

With several other internationally-known personal care product companies situated in North Carolina, they decided to follow suit and secured an 18,000 square-foot former garment factory in Creedmoor. “Roxanne did everything on instinct. So when she decided to get out of the candle business that was two-thirds of our business at the time and focus solely on personal care products, everyone thought she was crazy. But she had such a head for making money. She instinctively knew what to do,” says Renee.

The personal care business quickly grew and by 1994 the product lineup had grown to 50 products. Four years later, sales hit $8 million and distribution included 4,000 Whole Foods locations. Increased demand led to another relocation, this time to Durham along with an eCommerce website. Today, annual sales top $250 million from sales of over 150 products in nearly 30,000 retail outlets in the U.S., Canada, U.K., Hong Kong, and Taiwan. The company was bought by Clorox in fall 2007, but retains its strict commitment to environmentalism and social responsibility which the company calls “The Greater Good.” A new generation of employees led by CEO John Replogle channels the original spirit and passion of Roxanne and Burt today. You’ll find many employees

building homes for Habitat for Humanity. Others are sharing advice on sustainability with other local businesses. And yes, the chief marketing officer, vice president of R&D and human resources manager have formed a Ramones cover band called the Bee-mones. (One of their concerts has become a favourite on YouTube.) Regardless of their interests, each enthusiastically embraces the idea of a new kind of beauty company – one that embraces natural ingredients and gives back to the community and environment in every possible way.

Footnote: Roxanne has since sold her shares in the company and is committed to environmental conservation investing much of her earnings to buy tracts of forest and help preserve over 185,000 acres of land in Northern Maine. Burt is also no longer involved in day-to-day operations but makes occasional appearances from time-to-time. He still raises bees.

THE BURT’S BEES STORY

Raleigh North Carolina

Guilford Maine

Guilford Maine

THE GREATER

GOOD

Is it time to take a closerlook at the companies behind your favourite lip gloss or foundation?

In this new era of environmentalism and social responsibility, how a beauty company produces a product is becoming as important as what it produces. Is a beautiful lipstick worth the price if its manufacturing causes your water to be polluted or garbage dumps to be filled unnecessarily?

There’s a new generation of skincare company that believes it’s equally important to respect nature, our communities and human rights as it is to manufacture body lotions and lip balms. This philosophy is called “The Greater Good” and it is based on two simple and profound beliefs: Natural products work in harmony with our bodies to promote balance and well-being; and we should respect, preserve and improve the precious resource of our environment. These companies believe that if you take care of the environment and our communities and produce products that respect nature, the profits will follow. It’s a forward-thinking business model.

“Consumers are becoming more savvy and educated thanks to the web,” says Alan Middleton, a professor of marketing at the Schulich School of Business. “They

are becoming more demanding of the companies they do business with and won’t permit activities that pollute or otherwise damage the environment.” He says the younger generation in particular is concerned that they are left to clean up the mess left by earlier generations. They want a healthy environment to leave their children.

So what can you do? Begin by asking questions. Visit websites and read annual reports. Many cosmetic companies have 1-800 consumer hotlines you can call with questions. If you want to see changes to your favourite brands, write the president and ask him or her to make changes. And most of all, be discerning about what companies you do decide to support. Your dollars have great influence.

BURT’S BEES MAMA BEE &

BABY BEE

Burt’s Bees Mama Bee Leg & Foot Creme This rich cream is specially formulated with peppermint oil and rosemary extract to relax and soothe, tired muscles, legs and feet. Natural ingredients: 100%. $14.99

Burt’s Bees Mama Bee Nourishing Body Oil Sweet almond and lemon oils in this natural formula hydrate dry, itchy skin, while vitamin E moisturizes for healthy, baby-soft skin throughout your pregnancy. Natural ingredients: 98.5%. $12.49

Burt’s Bees Baby Bee Buttermilk LotionTreat your baby’s precious skin to the deep moisturizing of this creamy natural baby lotion with soothing, natural ingredients like real buttermilk, aloe vera and sunflower oil. This rich formula also includes botanicals like sunflower and coconut oil to seal in moisture and shield baby’s sensitve skin. Natural ingredients: 98.81%. $14.99

Burt’s Bees Baby Bee Apricot Baby OilThis soothing baby oil is made with apricot not mineral oil. Apricot oil is infused with grape seed, olive and avocado oils to create a rich, natural treat for precious skin. Natural ingredients: 98% $15.99

Burt’s Bees Baby Bee Diaper OintmentThis soothing diaper ointment is rich with vitamins A and E to help nourish baby’s skin, while chamomile moisturizes and soothes. Natural ingredients: 100%. $11.99.

A SELECTION OF BURT’S BEES

NATURAL PRODUCTS

Ageless

Lip Shimmers

Lip Balm

Body Wash

Hair Products

Kits

Face Wash

Hands & Feet

Lip Glosses

Body Lotion

Mama& Baby

Radiance Face

BURT’S BEES NATURAL SKIN CARE FOR MEN

Burt’s Bees Natural Skin Care for Men Cologne Arguably one of the best men’s scents of the year. This crisp, woodsy cologne contains a masculine blend of lemon, orange, bergamot, cypress and fir. Natural ingredients: 100%. $44.

Burt’s Bees Natural Skin Care for Men Body Wash This natural body wash contains coconut, sunflower and citrus oils to wash away dirt. Cypress and fir oils energize. And honey, glucose and soy protein leave skin feeling soft and refreshed. Natural ingredients: 100%. $13.

Burt’s Bees Natural Skin Care for Men Shave CreamCalendula and chamomile reduce irritation and inflammation while linden extract soothes and hydrates skin. But the best part is the fresh, masculine scent. Natural ingredients: 100%. $15.

Burt’s Bees Natural Skin Care for Men Bar SoapThis natural soap energizes and deodorizes with lemon, bergamot, patchouli and fir oils. Natural ingredients: 99.72%. $8.00.

Burt’s Bees Natural Skin Care for Men KitSlip this kit into your carry-on and enjoy travel-sized versions of the men’s collection. $24.

Burt’s Bees Natural Skin Care for Men AftershaveSoothe, calm and moisturize dry, rough skin with this effective aftershave. Natural ingredients: 100%. $15.

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING

The beauty industry is notorious for excessive packaging.

Some high-end products including perfumes are wrapped up to four different times in plastic and coated cardboard creating mounds of garbage that ends up in dumps. Here are some key points to look for to reduce unnecessary packaging.

This new degradable paper soap wrap is created from limestone. It’s called Terra Skin and will completely breakdown meaning none of it ends up in a landfill site.

Ask how the products are shipped. Some products are needlessly packed in small boxes and wrapped in plastic.

Do you need a plastic bag to take your product home? Can you bring fabric bags from home or pop it in your bag?

Look to see how environmentally sensitive the tamper evidence seals are. Reject any that are PVC.

Soya based inks on labels are kinder to the environment than synthetic ones.

Look for recyclable and reusable post-consumer recycled materials on packaging. Most companies will identify this on the back of packages or boxes.

Ask if a company has a refill program. MAC Cosmetics, The Body Shop and Thierry Mugler Parfums offer refill exchange programs if you bring back your empty bottles.

Look for a recycling symbol on bottles to make sure it can be reused after you finish with it.

Can you buy this product in a larger container? This will help reduce waste as well.

SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainability is a buzz word in business today. But what exactly does it mean? The term refers to businesses working to drastically reduce the impact they have on the environment and the amount of energy they use.

And no one is more passionate about sustainability than John Replogle, CEO of Burt’s Bees. “We’ve grown 30% each year for the past two years and still reduced our energy bills by 2 percent and our carbon load by per product by a third,” he says practically glowing. “By 2020, we aim to be carbon-free, have zero waste to landfill and have 100 percent renewable energy off the grid.” This is a conscious effort to positively affect resource scarcity, global climate change and air and water quality.

A walk through the Burt’s Bees factory further illustrates this fact. New lighting has just been installed so that the lights can be turned off in portions of the plant that aren’t being used. Vats and equipment are steam cleaned reducing the amount of water and cleansers needed to sterilize them. Electric power is purchased from Renewable Choice Energy and NC GreenPower.

And the factory has just increased its waste oil contribution to Piedmont Biofuels and composting to other organic waste streams. My tour guide Aimee says efforts to cut waste material at this plant have been so successful, they’ve moved up their date to produce no waste to 2010. Imagine, a beauty

John Replogle

company producing absolutely no garbage or waste. It boggles the mind.

But the sustainability drive extends beyond the factory. “We hosted an eco-awareness fair recently and invited 100 green exhibitors to set up education booths. More than 15,000 people showed up. Employees volunteered to stand by the recycling/garbage bins all day to educate the public. We sent only 100 pounds of waste to the landfill. By 7 p.m., there wasn’t a single piece of trash on the ground. It was incredible.”

One of the unique practices at Burt’s Bees is to share its expertise and knowledge on sustainability with other companies, even competitors. Short of sharing product recipes, the company will go to great efforts to help others in this field. Employees now host regular workshops in cafes for local businesses desiring to make positive changes. They’ll even make presentations to companies upon request.

“Another way to look at this is waste equals cost,” adds Mike Indursky, Burt’s Bees’ chief marketing officer. “The more green you are, the less waste you have, the lower your costs are. One of the great benefits of how Wal-Mart operates is that they are forcing these types of green initiatives and taking all of this waste out of the system. By doing this, the company will be more profitable.” He says, extra packaging is quite simply bad for the environment.

Walk through the Burt’s Bees lunch room and you’ll see further evidence of a sustainability mentality. Employees wander in and out dumping material into three mammoth recycling bins. Enthusiastic staff have even been known to sort through co-workers garbage cans and recycling boxes to help further reduce waste. “Imagine if everyone worked like this every day,” says John. “Imagine how healthier our environment would be.”

“We’ve grown 30% each year for the past two years and still reduced our energy bills by 2 percent and our carbon load by per product by a third”

SAVING THE BEES

What would happen if the world’s bee population suddenly disappeared?

How would farmers pollinate fruits and vegetables without them? It’s a question that scientists around the world are asking with the mysterious disappearance of a significant percentage of the world’s bee population recently.

It’s called Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD) and it’s become a great threat to the world’s food

population: Approximately 70 percent of fruits and vegetables are pollinated by bees.

There are more than 20,000 different species of bees and an estimated thousand more that have yet to be identified by scientists. A recent bee symposium in Toronto hosted by many of the world’s top bee experts established this problem is more than a North American phenomenon. Bee colonies are disappearing across Europe and Asia as well. And it is not just domesticated bees, but wild bees that are dying. These researchers claim pesticides, loss of habitat, disease and pollution are prime contributors to this sudden decline. The bees’ fragile systems can’t handle the sheer volume of chemicals and pollution in the air.

Natural skincare company Burt’s Bees has teamed up with the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign to raise awareness of this issue and fund much-needed research. “We believe the bees’ survival depends on how we manage and protect our world,” says Burt’s Bees co-founder Burt Shavitz, an avid beekeeper himself. “Everyone can make a difference by supporting local organic farmers, planting a seed and making healthy places for bees to live.” These simple steps can make a great impact in bee populations. The company is encouraging the public to plant bee-friendly gardens by offering free packets of wild flower seeds through its website and in certain product sets.

Thanks to the brand’s financial support, the NAPPC has established a “task force” called “The Honeybee Health Improvement Project” led by Danny Weaver, JD, President of the America Beekeeping Federation, Christina Grozinger, Ph.D., Asst. Professor of Insect Genomics at North Carolina State University and Barry Thompson, M.D., a Director of Eastern Apicultural Society. The task force will investigate key issues facing honeybee health: beekeeper education, foraging opportunities and breeding stock research. The team is hoping that research will yield much needed answers and a solution to reversing the bee population decline.

NATURAL INGREDIENT GLOSSARY

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice/Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (Aloe Barbadensis) – This gel is extracted from the leaves of the aloe vera plant, a member of the desert lily family indigenous to East and South Africa. It has antibacterial, antiseptic, emollient, moisturizing, and skin soothing properties.

Beeswax – One of the oldest and purest ingredients, this wax from the honeycomb of the bee is used in skin creams and lip care products to add hardness to the texture, as well as guard skin from dehydration. It helps to emulsify and thicken lotions and creams, hold together lip and body balms, and forms a protective barrier between skin and the environment.

Buttermilk Powder – This powder is formed when buttermilk is dehydrated. It is soothing and moisturizing when used alone as a bath soak or included in milk baths, bath salts, or other formulations.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Butyrospermum Parkii) – This fat, obtained from the fruit of the African karate tree, has moisturizing and healing properties. It is naturally rich in vitamins A, E, and F, as well as a number of other vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids which help soothe, balance, and hydrate the skin.

Camphor (Cinnamomum Camphora) – This essential oil is steam-distilled from the cinnamomum camphora tree found in Asia, Africa, and the Americas. It is a powerful antiseptic that reduces muscular aches, pains, and stiffness. It can be used as a soothing agent, skin conditioner, aphrodisiac, muscle relaxant, and insect repellent.

Flower Extract (Chamomilla Recutita) – Steam-distilled from the flower heads

of German Chamomile, this essential oil has a high content of azulene, which makes it a powerful anti-inflammatory. It has soothing and calming properties and is believed to provide an effective treatment for skin allergies.

Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract (Chondrus Crispus) – Derived from dried Irish moss that grows along the Atlantic coasts of both Europe and North America, this ingredient is soothing, protective, and nourishing. It is an effective thickener and stabilizer.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Fruit Extract/Oil & Peel Extract/Oil (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis) – Cold pressed from the fruit and peel of orange trees native to China and India, now cultivated in Brazil, Cypress, Israel, Mexico, and the United States, this ingredient helps to reduce puffiness and is believed to be particularly good for dry or aged skin. Both the oil and the peel are used to help stimulate circulation, clear blemishes, and assist in the release of toxins from dull or blemished skin.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Cocos Nucifera) – Cold pressed from the fruit of palm trees, which are native to the tropics, this oil is used as a general moisturizer and serves as a protective layer on the skin, helping to retain the moisture. Because it is mild, it is suitable for inflamed, irritated, and sensitive skin.

(Euphorbia Cerifera) – This hard vegetable wax is found on the leaves of a small shrub native to Mexico and the southwestern United States. The wax has superior molding properties and helps to provide shine to hair and lock in skin’s moisture.

Eucalyptus Gobulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Extract/Oil (Eucalyptis Globulus) – Steam-distilled or macerated from the leaves and twigs of eucalyptus grown in Australia, China, and Portugal, this essential oil stimulates circulation and is useful for relieving joint and muscle aches and pains. This oil can help stop the irritation of a bug bite and even prevent one, as it acts as an insect repellent.

Evening Primrose Oil – Essential oil of the yellow evening primrose flower. It is exceptionally high in essential fatty acids to condition and restore moisture to the skin.

Glycerin – This liquid is made by combining water and fats derived from vegetable oil. It helps retain moisture, soothes and softens skin, and can be used on even the most sensitive skin types.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Glycine Soja) – Cold pressed from beans native to southwestern Asia and cultivated worldwide in warm regions, this oil contains proteins and vitamins A, C, E, and K. It also contains lecithin, which is known for its emulsifying and antioxidant properties. Soybean is suitable as a moisturizer and softener for all skin types.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Hellanthus Annuus) – Cold pressed from specially cultivated sunflower seeds, this highly versatile oil supplies more vitamin E than any other vegetable oil. Its high oleic content makes it a good ingredient for cell regeneration and is highly recommended for products formulated to moisturize mature or damaged skin.

This supplement was printed on 100% recycled paper.

Hemp Seed Oil – Cold expressed from sterile seeds of the cannabis plant, this light yellow to dark green oil is unusually high in polyunsaturated fatty acids. With the ideal ratio ( 3:1 ) of omega 6 to omega 3 essential fatty acids, hemp seed oil most closely mirrors the skin’s lipid profile making it an excellent emollient and allowing for quick absorption.

Honey – This fluid has been used in skincare for its healing and skin softening properties. It is rich in amino acids, vitamins, and minerals.

Horse Chestnut Seed Extract – An herbal extract from a flowering tree that stimulates and energizes the skin. It is often used for its calming effect on the skin particularly to reduce redness.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil (Lavandula Angustifolia) – Steam distilled from an evergreen shrub grown mainly in France and the Mediterranean region, this highly versatile oil has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and cleansing properties. Lavender oil tones and revitalizes and is useful in treating all types of skin problems such as acne, oily skin, burns, sunburn, wounds, psoriasis, insect bites, and stings.

– This popular flower, native to the Americas and Asia, is not only beautiful, but also is proven to be a natural anti-inflammatory known to reduce dark circles around the eye area.

(Mentha Piperita) – Derived from the leaves of a plant commonly found in Europe and North America, this essential oil is known for its soothing and stimulating properties. Peppermint oil has a cooling effect that can help relax sore muscles. It is sometimes used to repel insects.

– A species of a twining tuberous vine that is native to and found growing wild in North America. Mexican Wild Yam is typically added to formulas for sensitive or inflamed skin for its calming effect on skin.

– Milk has been used as a natural emollient and is rich in vitamins and minerals. Whole milk powder soothes and moisturizes the skin and helps relieve dryness and itchy skin.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (Olea Europaea) – Pressed from the pulp of fully ripe olives, this oil is a good skin cell rejuvenator. It attracts external moisture to the skin and still permits the skin to properly release sweat, shed dead skin, and release sebum. This oil is great, especially for mature, inflamed, or dry skin, as it provides anti-wrinkle and wound-healing properties.

Para Cress Plant – Para Cress Plant is found in South America, Africa and Asia. This plant extract has been shown to help relax expression lines and smooth skin.

Pomegranate Extract – Pomegranate fruit extract, from the tree Punica granatum, contains several polyphenols and anthocyanidins (pigment that gives certain fruits their dark red colours), which are highly antioxidant protecting hair and skin from environmental stress.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (Prunus Amygdalus) – Pressed from the seeds of the almond tree native to the Middle East and cultivated in California and the Mediterranean, this oil is rich in proteins and vitamin D. It is an excellent emollient, known for its ability to soften and recondition the skin. It soothes dry skin and irritated areas.

Royal Jelly – This secretion of the hypopharyngeal gland of young worker bees contains essential fatty acids, which are known to help protect skin from dehydration and reduce inflammation. It also contains collagen, lecithin, protein, sugars, mineral salts and vitamins A, B complex, C, D and E, all of which benefit the skin. Royal jelly is said to help revitalize the skin, plump up skin cells, improve elasticity, and help heal damaged skin.

Rosemarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Rosemarinus Officinalis) – Derived from the leaves of the evergreen rosemary shrub, this essential oil helps to temporarily ease muscle and joint pain. It is often found in hair care products, as it can help control dandruff and an oily scalp. It is also found in products for dry or oily skin and acne.

Safflower Seed Oleosomes – Derived from safflower seeds that are grown in the semi arid regions. The protein-protected emollient spheres are natural, emollient-rich skin softeners and are encapsulated in a natural liposome (oleosomes). It also has natural antioxidant properties.

Titanium Dioxide – Naturally derived from a mineral. Used chiefly as a white pigment, and as an opacifier. Reflects light, so (when stated as such) can be considered a natural sun screen.

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter (Theobroma Cacao) – This pure butter is obtained from the crushed seeds of trees grown in Central and South America and Africa. It is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, including vitamin E which helps to soothe, hydrate, and balance the skin.

Tocopherol – This natural form of vitamin E protects cellular structures against potential damage from free radicals and the byproducts of fat peroxidation. Its moisturizing and restorative qualities make it an important component of many skin care products including anti-aging creams and lotions, UV protection products, moisturizers, burn treatments, and belly creams.

– White Birch Trees grow in northern Europe and North America. Purified bark is dried and the nutrients extracted to help increase firmness.

GIVING BACK TO THE

COMMUNITY

Can buying beauty products make a difference to the world?

It can if you choose your brands with care.

A new generation of skincare company staffed by passionate people who care about the environment is working hard to not only provide natural alternatives to synthetic products, but give back to the community in a meaningful

way. And there isn’t a more heartwarming example than Burt’s Bees commitment to help Habitat for Humanity build the first affordable green housing development in North Carolina. “Our employees are so passionate about this project. They’ve donated over 1,600 hours of their time so far,” says John Replogle. “In fact, last Friday we all spent the day building a green playground at the site.”

In May 2007, the two organizations broke ground on their first home at Hope Crossing in Durham, NC, the first of 32 green homes they plan to build together. Some of the unique features of the eco-friendly neighbourhood include: a nature trail, an innovative stormwater management system that includes rain gardens, ponds and an open drainage system, and an eco-neighbourhood education program to help educate residents about water conservation, recycling and waste reduction. “Of course, the goal is to provide much-needed shelter for those who desperately need it, but also to inspire others around the state and the country to ‘go green’,” says Replogle.

Photo courtesy of Habitat for Humanity