New Micrtextile osoft Word Document (2)

8/12/2019 New Micrtextile osoft Word Document (2)

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WEAVING

WEAVING DEPARTMENT

STANDARD OPERATING MANUAL

PROCESS DEFINITION

1.0 Weaving Process

Weaving is a process of interlacement of two sets of threads namely the warp and

weft threads in lengthwise and crosswise respectively to form a fabric. The Weaving loom introduces

machine settings like warp and weft tension, speed, fabric design, ends per inch, pick per inch and many

other loom settings to achieve the denim fabric property like width, twill design and weight of fabric in

Oz/yds. Hence, relatively Weaving runs:

That the fabric construction runs according to customer specifications

Ensure fabric loom setting is repeatable in terms of loom efficiency and quality.

2.0 Methodology

The Fabric is weaved from different types of looms like Air jet looms, Projectile and

Rapier looms correspond from any desired fabric design like plain weave, twill weave and satin weave

3.1 Loom Definitions:

S # Looms Definitions

1.0 Air Jet

- A loom in which the weft yarn is propelled through the shed

by means

of a jet of air.

2.0 Rapier

- One type has a long rapier that reaches across the looms

width to

carry the filling to the other side.

Another type has two small rapiers, one of each side. Onerapier


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carries the filling yarn halfway through the shed, where it is

met by

the other rapier, which carries the filling the rest of the way

across the

loom.

3.0 Projectile

- A shuttle-less loom method of filling yarn insertion using a

small metal

device resembling a bullet in appearance with clamp for

gripping the

yarn at one end, which is then propelled into and through the

shed.

Page 1

3.2 Weave Definitions:

S# Weave Definitions

1.0 Plain Weave

1 x 1 weave

- Consist of one thread over and one thread

under.

This type is found in shirting goods.

2.0 Twill Weave

3/1- RHT / LHT

2/1- RHT / LHT

3/1 Broken Twill

3/1 Hearing Bone

- Has each warp thread passing over two or

more

filling threads, with the interlacing

advancing one

thread on successive warps. This type, with

its diagonallineis found in denim.

3.0 Satin Weave 4/1 RH/LH weave

- Has few interlacing widely but regularly

spaced,

resulting in a lustrous right side and dullback.

This weave usually found in dress goods

4.0 Loom Machine Process Flow:

Sequence TermsDefinitions

1. Sized Warp - Sized warp/threads from sizing are wound into loom beams


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2.

Drop wires

- Sized threads are inserted and pass to the drop wire with stop motion device incase individ

thread breaks.- The device will prevent further fabric defects like miss-end or loose ends when sized threa breaks

4.

Harness

- Elevates the warp threads to build-up shed opening for weft insertion according to twill

5.

Reeds

- Used according to number of warp ends in a dent and the units is dent per inch or meter

6.

Weft Thread- Loom device that would carry the weft threads and inserted across when warp is open

to achieve required twill pattern of fabric.

7.

Leno Selvedge- Poly fiber yarn used and weave to strengthen the picking side selvedge of

fabric and let the selvedge get more stronger to avoid folding in finishing process.

9. Greige Fabric

- A product of weaving after two yarns warp and weft are being weave according to pattern and wound into batching and ready for greige inspection or right into finishing.

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5.0 Product Working Procedure


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5.1 Definitions

TermsProcedures

1. Running Product

- Threads of new sized warp are directly knotted to the threads of running out warp by

means ofwarp tying machine and run in loom according to set pattern.

2. New Product

- Sized warps are brought to theDraw-In

room, and each warp threads are inserted

manually into the

drop wires, heddle and reed to meet the required pattern of greige cloth.

3. Sample Product

- If the pattern of new sampleis the same in running article then do the knotting of

sampleaccording to running article pattern.

- If the new sample is not same pattern in running article then follow new article

working methods

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6.0 PROCESS REQUIREMENTS

6.1 Equipment Used

The details of Weaving looms used in BDL are as follows


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Toyota Looms Air Jet

Tsudakoma Looms Air jets

Manufacturer : Japan

6.2 Key Accessories:

Key accessories used for Weaving Process are:

Draw in machine

Knotting Machine

Loom Beam Carrier

Warp Comb for knotting

Reeds

Traveler Cleaner

Scissor

Measuring Tape

Pick Counter

GSM Cutter

Weighing scale

Thread hook

Humidifier / Chiller

Humidity tester

Thermometer

Loom Beam

Cloth barrel

Cloth carrier

6.3 Materials / Chemical used

The following Materials are used for Weaving Process

Leno Selvage

Sized warp

Colored yarn for Selvage

Weft Yarn

Masking Tape


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Fabric Marker

Page 4

7.0 SAFETY

In order to ensure floor and personal safety, floor personnel are instructed to follow the safety guidelines

given below:

Smoking is strictly prohibited in the factory premises.

Follow the safety instructions mentioned on the machine.

Put in a sign on when the maintenance work of the machine is going on.

Do not operate the machine wearing loose dress that could get entangled in the rotating parts.

Put mask on nose and mouth while running the machine.

Be careful in handling batching roller.

Do not touch the weft device when in motion.

Do not clean the loom while the machine is running.

For any unexpected electrical switch in absence of any electrician or responsible person.

Never touch the panel board without the help of Engineer or Production Executive

Carefully handle the batcher while inserting or releasing during operation

8.0 OPERATION PROCEDURE:

8.1 Operation Staff

Weaving Operation staff includes:


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1. Production Executive

2. Loom Operator

3. Assistant Operator

4. Fabric Doffer

5. Sized beam and Weft yarn Hauler

6. Fabric Quality Inspector

7. Loom Mechanics

8. Production Planner

9. Warp tier

10. Helpers

Page 5

9.0 Standard Operating Procedures

S #Tasks

1Get Production Plan from Planning Manager.

2

Review the production plan according to loom assignments, sized warp and weft availability andno. of days to weave the fabric

3

Review loom settings according to article code like Reed availability, pick gear combination,tension settings and other important set up to run the looms according to required quality.

4Prepare accessories of sized warp in-case for draw-in pattern.

5

Check knotting group personnel and knotting machines and accessories availability.

6Prepare manpower availability in running the planned looms


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7

Plan for overtime hours and its cost and cost to produce if necessary.

8Review plan for loom efficiency and productivity

9Check loom utility requirements like power and air

10

Check loom shed humidification and ensure that relative humidity and temperature are being met

inside the loom shed.

11

Prepare manpower to task of checking loom fabric quality

12Check batching motion and cloth barrel availability

13

Loom is now ready for production

14

When loom is running check the first three meters of fabric according to target weave quality like

Weight. Width, color and yarn/slub appearance, design and boil-off report.

15

Prepare daily loom production report, loom efficiency and greige fabric quality

16 Deliver greige fabric in batch roll to greige inspection according to roll length specified

17Greige Inspection must report immediately whatever fabric faults arises so as looms can rectifyquickly.

Page 6

10.0 Loom Checklists


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Draw-in Pattern

No. of Frames

Size of Headle wire

Reed Width setting

Pick gear setting

Back rest height

Distance between drop wire and harness

Shedding height and opening

Selvedge type

Crossing point opening

Weft Selector

Drafting setting

Tension setting

11.0 Fabric Properties checking

EPI

PPI

Design

Color

Width

Weight

Warp & Weft yarn appearance


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Slub yarn appearance

7

12.0 Product Quality Checking

Weaving Fabric Faults: Descriptions, Causes and Actions

Weaving Faults

Descriptions Causes Action

1. Abrasion Mark

- Area of the cloth or yarn being damaged

byfriction that is rubbing against any sharpobjects or rough surfaces along its travelpath.

- Defective reed or drop wires

- Broken guide tooth and

heddle- Replacement of defective

parts

2. Cut- Pick

- A discontinuity of weft direction caused

bya break or cut of weft yarn

- Dropped pick- Improper setting of weft

tension- Weak weft yarn

- Check air supply- Check weft setting- Replace weak weft yarn

3. Double Ends- Double strands woven in one loop of

weft

- Mis-drawn ends on the samewarp line position - Counter check Draw-in

method

4. Double Pick - Two picks interlaced in the same shed - Double end during winding

- Use correct pick finding

after

weft break

5 Weft Loose

- A short length of weft yarn that hasspontaneously doubled back on i tself andforming like loop - Improper weft setting tension

- Low Air supply

- Correct Weft insertion

settings- Check air supply

requirements

6. Mis-pick

- Pick not properly interlaced along itsweft

travel path. - Wrong pick -finding- Low Air supply

- Check pick finding afterbreak- Check air supply

requirements

7. Reed Mark - Marks on the cloth caused by damage - Damage reed - Change Reed


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reedtooth

8. Oil Stains- Contaminated substance mark on fabric - Oil leak from loom machine - Notify Mechanic

9. Starting Mark- Likely stop mark across the width of

fabric

- Warp tension not properly

adjusted after loom

has stopped - Check level tensionadjustments

10. Temple Mark- Abrasion on fabric from temple rings

- Improper setting of templerolls - Set temple rolls accordingly

11. Stop Mark- Likely dark mark across the width offabric

-Loom stop from differentcauses

- Avoid prolong loom stops- Check Auto - leveler

Page 8

13.0 Griege Fabric Quality Determination and Standard

Loom Breaks/stops is a benchmark perf ormance of fabri c quality i n weaving to measure initi ally the

fabric faultsWhether i t passes under export points grading system

13.1 Loom Standard Air jet

Parameters

STANDARDBreaks per 100,000 picks

(CMPX)Breaks/

HourBreaks/ 8

hrs Efficiency Points /100-mtr


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1. Warp Breaks- Std 2.60CMPX 1.12 9

Loom

Shed

92.0 %

28 defectpoints

Average

2. Weft Breaks -Std 3.20 CMPX 1.37 11

3. Mech/Elec stops- Std 0.40 CMPX 0.25 1.5

4. Leno Stops - Std 0.40 CMPX 0.25 1.5

Total Stops 6.6 CMPX3.00 23

13.2 Loom Yarn Breaks Analysis & Standard

Warp Breaks = 9 warp breaks std x 100, 000 picksNo. of picks run - 8-hrs

= 9 x 100,000 picks- Constant

335,000 picks Pick reading in loom after 8 hrs run

Warp Breaks (Std) = 2.60 breaks or CMPX = (1.12 breaks per hr or 9 breaks per 8 hrs)

Weft Breaks = 11 weft breaksstd x 100,000 picks335,000 picks

Weft Breaks - Std = 3.20 breaks or CMPX =( 1.37breaks per hr or 11 breaks per 8 hrs)

Loom Stops = 1.5 stops std x 100,000 picks335,000 picks

Loom stops - Std = 0.40 stops or CMPX or ( 1.5 stops per 8 hrs)

Leno Breaks = 1.5 breaks std x 100,000 pick335,000 picks

Leno Breaks- Std = 0.40 breaks or CMPX or ( 1.5 stops per 8 hrs)

Page 9

13.3 Loom: Waste Standard

Parameters

Waste Allocation per Sized loom Beam

Meters per Beam %

1. Warp out left over on beam 2.5 0.078


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2. Warp Knotting 2.0 0.062

3. Pull over start new beam 2.5 0.078

4. Re-knotting /damage warp 0.5 0.016

5. Reserved ends 3.0 0.100

6. Total warp meters - waste 10.5

7. Average meters / Beam 3,200

Standard Warp Waste 0.33%

13.4 Shed Loom Efficiency

Required Running Loom Picks per day = 1,005,100 picks

Loom Shed Efficiency = 1,005,100 picks x 10024 hrs x 60 mins/hr x 760 Rev/min

= 92.00 %

13.5 Production Efficiency

A. Average running Pick = 57B. Average Speed (RPM) = 750

Production Efficiency = RPM x 60 mins/hr x 24 hrs( Loom Wise) Picks/inch x 39.37 inch/meter

= 760 x 60 x 2457 x 39.37

= 488 meters @ 100 %

= 448 meters @ 92 % per loom/day

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W o v e n F a b r i c C a l c u l a t i o n

C o v e r F a c t o r

D e f i n i t i o n : C o v e r f a c t o r i n d i c a t e s t h e e x t e n t t o w h i c h t h e a r e a o f a f a

b r i c i s c o v e r e d b y o n e s e t o f t h r e a d s .

F o r a n y f a b r i c t h e r e a r e t w o c o v e r f a c t o r s : t h e w a r p c o v e r f - a c t o r a n d t

h e w e f t c o v e r f ' a c t o r .' l ' h e

c l o t h c o v e r f - a c t o r i s o b t a i n e d b y a d d i n g t h e w e f t c o v e r f a c t o r t o t h e w

a r p c o v e r .

C a l c L r l a t i o n : T h e c o v e r f - a c t o r i n S I u n i t s i s c a l c u l a t e d a s :

( ' o v e r F a c t o r 1 S l )

l l t r c u J s I c ' n t . . - -

' { r / /c' r

l 0

I l x a r n p l e : ' l ' c x - 2 0 . t h r c a d s / c n r : 2 [ l

C o v e r f a c t o r ( S I )

: ( 2 S x r / Z O ; l l 0

: 1 2 . 5

C o v e r F a c t o r ( P i e r c e )

o v c r [ : a c t o t ' ( P i e r c c )

n

l v h c r e n : t h r e a d s / i n c h a n d N i s c o t t o n c o L l l l t

t : r a r n p l c ' f e x : 2 0 c o L l n t . t h r e a d s / c m - 2 8

C l o t t o n C o L r n t : 5 9 0 . 5 1 2 0

: 2 9 . 5 ' s

- l ' h r e a d s / i n c h

: 2 8

x 2 . 5 4

- l

I

C o v e r F a c t o r ( P i e r c e )

: 1

| I \ 1 2 9 . 5

: 1 2 . 9

' l ' l r c

r e s u l t a l t t c o v e r f a c t o r b e t w e e n S l r - r n i t s a n d P i e r c e i s l e s s t h a n 5 o / o .

F o r a n y g i v e n t h r e a d s p a c i n g , p l a i n r v e a v e h a s t h e l a r g e s t n u m b e r i n t e r

s e c t i o n s p e r t t n i t

a r e a . A l l o t h e r w e a v e s h a v e f - e w e r i n t e r s e c t i o n s t h a n p l a i n w e a v e . - f h

e l i k e l y w e a v a b i l i t l '

o f a l l l a b r i c s w o v e n w i t h t h e s a m e w e a v e a n d f i o r n s i r n i l a r y a r n s c a n b

e f o r e c a s t l i o l n


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t h e i r c o v e r f - a c t o r .

P l a i n w e a v e f - a b r i c s w i t h r v a r p a n d r v e f t c o v e r f a c t o r s o f l 2 i n e a c h d i

r e c t i o n a r e e a s y t o

w e a v e . T h e r e a f t e r w e a v i n g b e c o m e s m o r e d i f f i c u l t a n d f b r c o v e r f a c t o r

s o f l 4 + 1 4 f a i r l y

s t r o n g w e a v i n g m a c h i n e s a r e r e q u i r e d . A t a c o v e r f - a c t o r o f l 6 + 1 6 , t h

e p l a i n s t r u c t u r e

j a r n s a n d a v e r y s t r o n g l o o r r - r w i t h h e a v y b e a t - L r p i s n e e d e d t o d e f

b r r n t h e y a r n s

s u f f i c i e n t l y t o o b t a i n a s a t i s f a c t o r y b e a t i n g - u p o f t h e w e f t .T h r e e c l o t

h s w i t h t h e s a m e c o v e r f a c t o r ( K : 1 2 ) w o v e n r v i t h y a r r r s o f d i f l - e r e n t l i

r r e a r

d e n s i t i e s a r e s h o r . v n i n T a b l e l . l t c a n b e s e e n t h a t h o r v t h r e a d s p a c i n

g a n d l i n e a r d e n s i t y

h a v e t o b e a d j L r s t e d t o m a i n t a i n t h e r e q u i r e d c o v e r f a c t o r a n d h o w c l o

t h a r e a d e n s i t y a n d

t h i c k n e s s a r e a f ' f e c t e d .

T a b l e I C o r n p a r i s o n o f f a b r i c s w i t h i d e n t i c a l w a r p a n d w e f t c o v e r f a c t o

r s w o v e r r w i t h

y a r n s o f d i f f e r e n t l i n e a r d e n s i t i e s ( S I L r n i t s )

C l o t h T h r e a d s D e r c m L i n e a r d e n s i t v C o v e r f a c t o r W e i s h t t h i c k n e s s

I l l rl2 Nr Nz K r K ; ( g / m ' ) m m

.,,

A 1 A

- a 25 25 t 2 t2 l 3 t ) 0 . 2 8

B t 2 t2 t 0 0 1 0 0 t2 t2 2 6 0 0 5 6

( l o () , + 0 0 4 0 0 t 2 t 2 5 2 0 l . 1 2F r a c t i o n a l C o v e r

I p f a b r i c s c o n s t r u c t c d f i o r n y a r n s , c o v e r m a y b e c o n s i d e r e d a s t h e f r a c

t i o r r o f t h e t o t a l

f a b r i c a r e a t h a t

" c o v e r e d " b 1 , t h e c o m p o n e n t y a r n s . A n o v e r - s i l n p l i f i c a t i o n o f t h e i d e

a f b r

w o v e n f a b r i c i s s h o r v n i n F i g l l r e l .

I : i g u r c I : I r r a c t i o n a l C o v e r

' l ' h c

r a r r r h a s a c i r c u l a r c r o s s - s e c t i o n o l - d i a n r c t e r . r / . a r r c l a d . i a c c n t

) ' a r n s a r e c l i s p l a c c d b 1 ' a

d i s t a n c e s . I ' h e f l ' a c t i o n a l c o v e r i s t h e n d / s .

I n t h c i d e a l r n o d c l . s r v i l l b e e q u a l t o l / n . w h c r e r i s t h e n u m b e r o l - t h r e a d s

p c r u n i t I c - n g t h

l l r c l i a c t i o n a l c o v e r c o u l d b e e x o r e s s c d i n t c r m s o f d a r r d n

l r r a c t i o n a l c o v e r : c l X n


17/20

G r o s b e r g s h o w e d t h a t y a r n d i a r n c t c r d - 1 . 4 4 l i ( t c x / l i b c r d c r r s i t l ' x l 0

r

.

F r a c t i o n a l c o v e r .

C - 4 . , 4 4 r ( t c x / [ i b e r d e n s i t y ) x t h r e a d s / c r r r x l 0 - '

l r x a m p l e : W h a t i s t l i e f i a c t i o n a l c o v c r t b r t h c w a r p i n a l ' a b r i c w i t h 3

5 e n d s / c r n . \ \ o v e n

t i o m y a r n o f 3 0 t e x ' l ' l ' h e f l b r e d e n s i t y i s 1 . 5 g / c m 3 .

C r : 4 . 4 4 ! 3 0 / 1 . 5 x 3 5 x l 0 l

c t r : 0 . 6 9 5

l e . 6 9 0 / o i s c o v e r e d b y w a r p y a r n .

W O V h ] N - T A I ] R I C S ' I R U ( ' T U R L

) f ) ( )

'

\,-____-,/ \*-/

IT o t a l C o v e r

l - h e t o t a l a r e a c o v e r e d b y t h e f a b r i c ( P l a i n r . v e a v e ) i s A B C D .

' T ' h e

s h a d e d a r e a i s t h e p a r t

o f t h e t o t a l a r e a . o u . r . d b y b o t h y a r n s , a n d . b e c a u s e o f t h i s , i t w o r - r l

d n o t b e s t r i c t l y '

a c c u r a t e m e r e l y t o a d d t h e i v a r p a n d w e f t c o v e r v a l u e s t o g e t h e r a n d q r

- r o t e t h e m a s t h e

t o t a l c o v e r .

rT

,

- - !

:

- i

F i g u r e l : l . J n i t c c l l o f P l a i n l r a b r i c

f l t e s f t a d e c l a r c a s a r c e a c l t d r x d : a l l d t h c t o t a l a t ' c a o l ' t h e c e l l i s s

1 x

B y d e f i n i t i o n . l i a c t i o n a l c o v e r . C .

- d / s . H c n c c

d r

: C r s r

d :

- C : s :

d r d : : C 1 s 1 C i : s l

I : x p r c s s e d a s a l p a c t i o l o f t o t a l : l l ' e 3 S 1 r s 2 . t h e s h a c l e d a r c a b c c o n t c

s :

5 a


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h , x a r r p l e :

A p l a i l c o t t o r r f a b r i c i s w o v e n t o t h c f b l l o w i r r g d c t a i l s : r v a r p : 2 0 t e x

, 2 8 e n d s / c m .

W e f i : 3 5 t e x , 2 5 p i c k s / c m ( d e n s i t y o f c o t t o n 1 . 5 2 g / c m 3 )

W h a t i s t h e t o t a l c o v e r f - a c t o r ?

W a r p c o v e r : C r : 4 . 4 4 x r / : O l t . S U x 2 8 x l 0 - 3

: 0 . 4 5 1 ;

W e f l c o v e r : C z : 4 . 4 4 x r / : S l t . S Z x 2 5 x l 0 - 3 - 0 ' 5 3 3

T o t a l f r a c t i o n a l c o v e r i s c 1 + c :

- C r c - - r : 0 . 4 5 1 + 0 . 5 3 3

- 0 . 4 5 1 x 0 , 5 3 3 : 0 ' 1 4 4

l ' h e o r e t i c a l l y , a b o u t 7 4 o / o o f t h e t o t a l a r e a o f t h i s c o t t o n s h e e t i n g i

s t h e r e f b r e c o v e r e d b y

v a r n .

d r d : : C l s y C 2 s 1 / s 1 x s 2

- C r C :

b e d e d u c t e d f i o r n t h e s u l n o f ' C l a n d C 2 ,

T o t a l f i a c t i o n a l c o v e r

= C t * C :

- C r C :

14.0 Q.C. Fabric Testing:

All Greige fabric must undergo Quality Assurance Grading and testing to ensure that all fabrics are on

the right track of quality prior to Finishing.

14.1 Response to Equipment Faults:

Following are the response to be taken in case of any equipment faults:

Equipment Response

Loom power faults

Call Electrical Maintenance

Loom and fabric SettingsCall Mechanical Maintenance

Batching device, Weft settings Call Mechanical Maintenance

Any other mechanical fault

Call Mechanical MaintenanceAny other electrical fault Call Electrical Maintenance


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Loom air problem Call Utility Maintenance

14.0 Machine / Area Cleaning:

To ensure complete cleanliness on the floor as well as Loom machines, following measures are taken:

Clean all parts of loom and free from any cotton fluffs..

Loom reeds, harness and drop wires must be maintained clean through out run

Clean the entire loom shed, floor, walls, mezzanine and air humidification system

The Maintenance Department performs the preventive maintenance task as per the PM schedule. Refer to

maintenance Specifications (Document No.) for details.

15.0 APPLICABLE FORMS & DOCUMENTS

Forms & Documents Used

The necessary forms & documents used for Weaving process are listed below:

1. Knotting Report (form no._____________)

2. Beam Gaiting Report (form no._____________)

3. Production Report ( form no.____________)

4. Maintenance Report ( form no.____________)

5. Draw-in Report ( form no.____________ )

Page 11

16.0 Document Flow

The document flow of the above documents is as follows:

Production and Maintenance activities in Weaving department shall be recorded and make reports in daily

basis and send it in all department concerns and to Factory General Manager.


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Knotting report (Form no.)is prepared by the Knotting officer everyday where all details of the fabric

knotting are being specified according to Article code and send copy to Factory General Manager.

Gaiting Report ( Form no. )is prepared by the concerned Weaving Gating Officer signs on it and send copy to

the Factory General Manager.

Production Report ( Form no.)is used to record details of production output and efficiency on daily basis

including Loss Production and Fabric Faults report and send copy to the Factory General Manager.

Maintenance Report (Form no. )is prepared by the concerned Weaving Maintenance officer and send it to all

department managers and copy to Factory General Manager

.

Draw-in Report ( Form no. )is prepared daily by Draw-in officer and send copy to Factory General Manager

Attachments:

Examples of all applicable forms and documents are attached.

Date post:	03-Jun-2018
Category:	Documents
Upload:	sabeeh-ul-hassan
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