Ontrak Fall 2015

SIGHTS AND TASTES ALONG THE TRAIN LINEExplªe

#RAILGATINGTAILGATE FROM THE TRAIN2015

EXPOSUREPHOTO CONTEST

SALEM OLYMPIAAN ADVENTURE IN PNW CAPITALSFALL

IN PICTURES:WOMEN’S

BIKER RALLY

WINE TASTING NEAR

THE TRAIN

THE LAST RAILROAD WAR

PICTURED HERE:

Seattle’s skyline

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades routeR

TAKE US WITH YOU

Compliments of

Amtrak Cascades®

Your destination for Northwest fun! Save with a Sip & Stay package designed for

beer and wine tasting or a Play & Stay package to take your Washington adventure

outdoors. All packages include dining offers at local restaurants and special rates

at Bothell hotels. Book today at exploreBothell.com/weekends!

Enjoy a weekend in Bothell, WA.YOU PACK. WE PLAN.

Welcome to your New Jewelry Home Maloy’s Jewelry has been a downtown Portland tradition

for over 25 years, with one of the �nest selections of fully restored

antique jewelry on the West Coast. A glittering jewel box full

treasures from all the most beautiful periods of jewelry

design, you will �nd everything from Edwardian

engagement rings to Art Nouveau pendants,

Victorian lockets to Art Deco earrings. We also

have a full sta� of expert bench jewelers right

on site, and can work our restoration or

redesign magic on your own family heirlooms.

With vintage treasures in every price range,

an exceptional memento of your trip is always

in reach. Come visit with our friendly sta�

and explore. Conveniently located on both

the max and streetcar lines.

M-F 10am to 5:30pmSat 11am to 5pm717 SW 10th Ave

Portland, OR 97205503.223.4720

www.maloys.com

visitbend.com Tyler RoemerBroken Topvisitbend.com Tyler RoemerBroken Top

Bend, Oregon Peaks with endless views, a historic town that mixes cosmo-cool with genuine friendliness, a lifetime of world-class outdoor bliss, and 16 craft breweries along the legendary Bend Ale Trail. If you crave adventure, you belong in Bend.

ontrakmag.com6 | FALL 2015

FeaturesFALL 2015

PacificNorthwest

on the Palate

Discovering vineyards and tasting rooms along the Amtrak Cascades route.

48The

Dream RollWomen motorcycle riders

take to scenic roads.

John Waller

50The Last

Railroad WarThe battle to build the Oregon Trunk Line in

Central Oregon.

44

hotelbellwether.com thechrysalisinn.com fairhavenvillageinn.com

Start your road trip at: bellingham.org

thechrysalisinn.com


DepartmentsFALL 2015

OUTDOORS33 Outdoors NW

Talking legacy with University of Washington crew coach Mike Callahan.

36 Notes from the Adventure A remembrance of trains past.

40

42

WeekenderExploring capitals and capitols in Salem, Oregon and Olympia, Washington.

WeekenderU of O and UW alumni get in the football spirit on the Game Train.

56

68

Oregon

ExposureSubmit a photo for a chance to win the photo contest.

60 Washington

64 Vancouver

69 Train Games

73 Special Deals on Amtrak Cascades

70 Route Maps

74 Parting Shot

EXPLORE GUIDEWhere to eat, drink, stay, play and shop.

Kaia D’Albora

INTRO10 Letter

14 Contributors

16 Digital Win an urban spa day and a hotel stay.

BUSINESS19 Green Biz

Habitat enhancement and restoration with AquaTerra.

20

27 Event CalendarPlan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.

24 MusicHey Marseilles melds folk storytelling with orchestral pop.

25 On StageInterpreting nature via abstract art with April Ponsford.

CULTURE23 Chef Spotlight

Andrea Carlson’s Vancouver, BC restaurant thrives on the 100-Mile Diet.

Q&ATeenagers create international award-winning robot in Lake Oswego.

ON THE COVER: The cover was shot by Jeff Engelhardt, a Seattle-based photographer. Though Engelhardt usually strives to capture beauty in unexpected places, he made an exception for the stunning view of Seattle’s skyline from Dr. José Rizal Park.

University of Washington’s Men’s Rowing Team.

33 Outdoors NW

1701 Pacific Avenue Tacoma, WA 98402

253-272-4258 www.TacomaArtMuseum.org

Art AIDS America is organized by Tacoma Art Museum in partnership with The Bronx Museum of the Arts, and co-curated by Dr. Jonathan D. Katz, Director, Visual Studies Doctoral Program at the University at Buffalo (The State University of New York), and Rock Hushka, Chief Curator at Tacoma Art Museum. The exhibition is made possible by support from The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, The Paul G. Allen Family Foundation, and Leslie-Lohman Museum of Gay and Lesbian Art. Additional support provided by Gilead Sciences, Inc.

October 3, 2015 – January 10, 2016

“A long-awaited survey of work from this era…” — The New York Times

“Uncomfortable, wistfully beautiful, and vitally important…” — Advocate.com

David Wojnarowicz (born 1954, died 1992 ), Untitled (Buffalo) (detail), 1988–89. Vintage gelatin silver print, signed on verso, 27½ × 35½ inches. Private collection, Courtesy of the Estate of David Wojnarowicz and P.P.O.W Gallery, New York.

Ad_OnTrak_AAA_full_d1.indd 1 8/21/2015 3:29:28 PM


Letter

I HOPE YOU’RE ENJOYING your trip aboard one of the most scenic train routes in the country. As a represen-tative in the Oregon State Legislature, I’ve been a longtime supporter of Am-trak Cascades trains and am pleased to share that we voted to continue service in Oregon for the next two years. It real-ly helps legislators when our train riders remind us that intercity passenger rail is important to our local communities. Thanks for helping us to confirm what matters to you.

The Oregon and Washington depart-ments of transportation continue to look for ways to improve passenger rail ser-vice and to increase ridership. Amtrak Cascades is a key element in our trans-portation system.

Passenger trains connect people from all over the region to work, entertain-ment, families, schools, friends, medical services and events, forming a vital part of our region’s economic future.

Many passengers on Amtrak Cascades trains own cars but prefer traveling by train. Others rely solely on alternative

modes of transportation and find Am-trak Cascades to be a great choice as they plan their travel between cities. Everyone knows that Amtrak Cascades offers an environmentally friendly and safe mode of transportation that benefits all of us.

I’d also like to remind you that football season is underway. Cheer on your team and take the train to the games. Enjoy time with your friends and family with-out having to contend with freeway traf-fic. Amtrak Cascades and ODOT have partnered with the University of Oregon to offer a 25 percent discount for travel to the Ducks’ home games. This fall, you can also save 25 percent when traveling between any of Amtrak Cascade’s eigh-teen stops by purchasing your tickets two weeks in advance. Check out the Amtrak Cascades website for this and other deals.

Thanks again for your continued sup-port of intercity passenger rail in the Pa-cific Northwest. In the upcoming years, we look forward to exciting improve-ments, including more daily trips be-tween Portland and Seattle and increased on-time performance. I’m excited about the future of rail travel in our state and I hope to see you on the train soon!

From: Nancy NathansonOregon State Representative, District 13

FALL 2015

OREGONThe Benson*, Portland

WASHINGTONThe Governor, a Coast Hotel, Olympia

Coast Gateway Hotel, Seattle

Coast Bellevue Hotel, Bellevue

Coast Wenatchee Center, Wenatchee

ALASKA Coast International Inn, Anchorage

HAWAII Waimea Plantation Cottages, Kauai

COASTHOTELS.COM / 1.800.663.1144

We are also proud to offer 34 distinct properties in Western Canada and the U.S.

*photo - The Benson Hotel lobby in downtown Portland

Co-Publisher - Heather Huston JohnsonCo-Publisher - Ross Johnson

Editor - Kevin MaxEditor at Large - Sarah Max

Managing Editor - Megan OliverCross-media Manager - Cathy Carroll

Content Producer - Anna Bird

Lead Designer - Crystal JeffersAssistant Designer - Talia Jean Galvin

Illustrator - Brendan LoscarSales & Marketing Coordinator - Kelly Alexander

Digital | Social Media- McKenna Dempsey,Ryan Manies, Cassondra Schindler

Office Manager - Cindy Cowmeadow

Advertising Account ExecutivesFletcher Beck, Susan Crow, Ronnie Harrelson,

Kate Knox, Kristie La Chance, Hillary Ross, Lisa Schwartz

1859 Media Advertising541.550.7081

1859media.com

Published by1859 Media, LLC

PMB 335, 70 SW Century Dr., Suite 100Bend, Oregon 97702

All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmit-ted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photo-Copy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the ex-press written permission of 1859 Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Con-sent of the publisher. OnTrak and 1859 Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.

1859 Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is praCtiCed in an environmentally responsible, soCially benefiCial and eConomiCally viable way. This issue of OnTrak was printed by AmeriCan Web on reCyCled paper using inks Containing blend of soy base. Our printer is a Certified member of the Forestry Stewardship CounCil (FSC) and the Sus-tainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), and meets or exCeeds all federal ResourCe Conservation ReCovery ACt (RCRA) standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or reCyCle it. We Can have a better world if we Choose it together.

facebook.com/OnTrakMagfacebook.com/AmtrakCascades

@OnTrakMag@Amtrak_Cascades

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades routeR

PURVEYOR TO THOSE SEEKING

THE FINER THINGS IN

LIFE.


Contributors

Jane AhernWriter - “The Last Railroad War”Jane Ahern is a freelance writer based in Madras, Oregon. Since earning a University of Oregon journalism degree in 1990, she has had several careers. including time as an overseas English teacher, a legal assistant and a librarian. Three years into her current occupation as a stay-at-home mom, she finally put her degree to use, writing for a variety of publications. Her home is less than a mile from Harriman’s Deschutes railroad tracks.

Ryan MacDonaldPhotographer - “Entering Layers of Meaning” on page 28.Ryan MacDonald is a Canadian portrait and wedding photographer. She grew up in a tiny, close-knit fishing community on the culturally rich island of Cape Breton, and followed her heart across the country to live in Victoria, British Columbia. She currently spends her time working throughout the Maritimes and the West Coast.

Brendan Loscar Illustrator - Games on the TrainOregon native Brendan Loscar has been drawing since he could hold a pencil. With a focus on illustration and graphic design, he loves to create. His passion for exploration, video games and cartoons exudes from his work. In this issue of OnTrak, he designs and illustrates the imaginative adventures of the dynamic duo, Sam and Ann Trak.

James SinksWriter - Weekender, “Capitol Gains”James Sinks didn’t follow in the footsteps of his great grandfather, who worked for the Great Northern railway, but he enjoys engineering tales about the people and places in the Pacific Northwest. An award-winning reporter at several Oregon newspapers, he and his family live in Salem.

Julie H. CaseWriter - “Pacific Northwest on the Palate”Julie H. Case is a wine, travel, and geek culture writer who has contributed to Virtuoso Life, Sunset, Alaska Airlines Magazine, The Clever Root, AAA Journey, Wired and more. When not on assignment she can be found foraging for mushrooms, snowboarding, working with Wounded Warriors or concocting something in the kitchen.

FALL 2015

Eugene Pavlov

416 nw 12th aveportland or 97209

physicalelement.com

RundholzTrippen ShoesMoyuru Japan

1200 SW Park Ave., Portland, OR 97205 www.ohs.org

Save $2 on admission!Use the coupon code OnTrak and save $2 on admission for each

person in your party. Valid through December 7, 2015.

On exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society

June 26 – December 7, 2015

A WORLD AT WAR, A STATE TRANSFORMED


Follow us oninstagram:@OnTrakMag

Mobile

Digital Experience

Contests

Photo Contest

Snap a great shot and win cool stuff from OnTrak. Send us your photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure

EXP SURE

Follow us atfacebook.com/OnTrakMagfacebook.com/AmtrakCascades

Follow us ontwitter:@OnTrakMag@Amtrak_Cascades

BE AWINNER

*Two roundtrip Amtrak Cascades tickets.*A spa-day package at Kanani Pearl Spa for two.

*Two nights’ lodging at the Inn at Northrup Station.Enter at ontrakmag.com/contest

Relax and rejuvenate with a Portland getaway

EXTENDED GALLERY

A WOODSY GATHERING OFMOTORCYCLE

MAVENS

The Dream RollSee photos of this year’s Dream Roll, a women’s only motorcy-cle rally and camp-out by Mt. Adams. This annual August

rendezvous in the woods unites women motorcyclists from

various backgrounds. ontrakmag.com/gallery

Betsy Katz

ontrakmag.com

FALL 2015

Train TracksLet our curated list of Pacific

Northwest regional musicians be the soundtrack to your next

PNW adventure

Listen here:ontrakmag.com/traintracks

John Waller

Kanani Pearl Spa, Portland

515 SW Clay St || Portland, OR 97201

877-484-1084 || www.hotelmodera.com

DISCOVER PORTLAND Hotel Modera is YOUR full

service boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Portland. Located on the Portland Mall between SW 5th and 6th Avenues, Hotel Modera is

just steps away from the best of Portland’s shopping, restaurants,

and cultural venues.

The courtyard features an innovative Living Wall and

glass-filled fire pits. Each room is indulged with crisp designer

linens, flat panel HD TVs, iPod docking stations, and Italian

Tarocco bath products.

Enjoy complimentary in-room WiFi and daily passes to

24 Hour Fitness!

Use the code below to receive 15% off our Best Available Rate!

Enter Promotional Code “OnTrak”

Step aside, away from the mainstream, to a place where autumn explodes with

flavor and winter sparkles with merriment. In the San Juan Islands enchantment

is a year-round event.

MAGIC Knows No Season

Savor the San Juans in October. Indulge yourself

with wineries, galleries, farm tours, harvest dinners,

or just a snug fi reside for two.

Cozy Island Holidays in November - December make every day a celebration. Come

to the islands for shopping, caroling, tree lightings, fi lm

festivals & feasting.

V is i t San Juans .com

Lopez Island • Orcas Island • San Juan Island / Friday Harbor

INSPIRATION FOR THE SENSES

MORE THAN JUST A DAY AT THE BEACH!

REQUEST YOUR FREE GUIDE: SeasideOR.com | 888.306.2326

VisitSeasideOR @VisitSeasideOR

ontrakmag.com FALL 2015 | 19

Business19. Green Biz | 20. Q&A

GROWING UP, CHRIS LEE’S bedroom was home to a menagerie of fish, amphibians, liz-ards, birds and small mammals. “That quickly spread to other areas of the house,” he said.

“One year, when I was about 12, we opened a zoo in the backyard and charged the neighbor-hood kids 25 cents admission,” said the principal biologist of AquaTerra Environmental. “When other children were asking for toys, I was asking for fish tanks and animal skulls.”

It did not come as a surprise to anyone who knew him when Lee opted to study biological sciences. That led to a master’s degree with a focus on adult Pacific salmon. Following a short stint at Fisheries and Oceans Canada, Lee wanted to figure out the most efficient way to initiate positive change in the environment. He decided to consult directly with clients in the private and public sectors.

In 2007, he founded AquaTerra, an environ-mental consulting, design, management and implementation company with ten employ-ees, based in Port Moody. Since its inception, AquaTerra has worked on several notable projects including a wildlife management proj-ect for a highway, the Burrard Inlet oil spill and Metro Vancouver Park and Trail plans.

“Design and implementation of habitat enhancement and restoration measures for de-graded habitats are some of our most reward-ing projects,” said Lee.

Often, clients approach AquaTerra seeking simple strategies for environmental steward-ship. “At AquaTerra, we demonstrate ways to be an environmental steward while improving efficiencies and reducing maintenance costs, which is a win-win situation,” he explained. The work the company is doing to help restore a vanishing lake in Vancouver’s Stanley Park is a prime example. The AquaTerra team put together a long-ranging plan to end the lake’s infilling while restoring its biodiversity for generations to come.

AquaTerraBY SOPHIA MCDONALD

Beaver Lake in Vancouver’s Stanley park is under threat from invasive water lilies and sediment infilling. AquaTerra is developing a plan to restore the vanishing lake.

Michael Schmidt


Can you tell us more about the robot?The team’s winning robot is named Oscar. Oscar is a big cube, and was quite heavy for a FIRST Tech Challenge robot, topping out at seven-ty-one pounds. The kids do all the design. They decided they liked the extra mass because it made the robot more stable and less likely to be disrupted by other robots that would run into it during a round. Oscar did really well in the autonomous phase of the competition, when the robots store balls in a goal without operator intervention.

How did the team react to being at the FIRST Tech Challenge World Champi-onship in St. Louis?

You know, that was the best time the team had all season. They interacted with kids from all over the U.S., as well as China, South Korea, Russia, Canada and Mexico. They really loved the experience. It was pretty wild.

Aside from building award- winning robots, what other activities define Team Axis? They’ve been interacting over the summer, mostly with out-reach activities. For example, the team built a course and went to a Muscular Dystro-phy Association camp to give children with muscular dystrophy an opportunity to drive some robots and see what robotics is all about. It was neat to watch the team interact with the campers,

and to see the campers’ en-thusiasm for robotics.

You and your wife both have careers in business. Were you able to apply your professional backgrounds on this project?Yeah, we absolutely do apply all of our professional back-ground to what we do with these kids. We have a team of kids that’s dedicated to business outreach. They do all of our brochures and business cards. They plan and manage our outreach events. They really give the overall team a sense of what it takes to make a business work. The engi-neers have to work with the programmers; they all have to work with the business development people.

What’s your favorite aspect of coaching?Most kids come into these proj-ects and they’re great students. They’re getting As in all their classes, but they don’t have that connection to “What kind of problems do I solve with this?” That’s maybe the most fun I get to have—when they’re puzzling over how to solve something. I get to pose those questions that make them dig deep and realize that something they’ve learned in geometry or calculus or physics is the answer to the problem they’re trying to solve. I get to show the kids how what they’re learning in their high school science and math classes relates to the real world.

Robotics Meets Business

Gary MitchellBusiness professor at University of Portland and robotics coach for Team Axis

A SIT DOWN Q ABY FELISA ROGERS

WORKING FROM A GARAGE, Team Axis —a group of thirteen high schoolers in Lake Oswego—created an award-winning robot. Coached by Uni-versity of Portland business professor Gary Mitchell and his wife, Veronica, the students competed against 127 international teams, taking home the FIRST (For Inspiration and Recogni-tion of Science and Technology) Tech Challenge award for mastering robot intelligence in April. Mitchell, 52, facil-itates the connection between science, creativity and real-world business skills.

NashCO Photography

To see photos of students and their robots, go to ontrakmag.com/robotics

Plan your South Willamette Valley Winery getaway at EugeneCascadesCoast.org/Pinot | 800.547.5445


Culture

Alison Page

23. Culinary | 24. Music | 25. On Stage | 27. Events

Chef SpotlightBY MICHELLE HOPKINS

IN VANCOUVER’S CULINARY circles, Andrea Carlson is credited with creating the first Canadian restaurant based solely on the 100-Mile Diet, in which all ingredients are sourced from within a 100-mile radius.

Today, the devoted farm-to-table exec-utive chef is co-owner of the highly touted Main Street eatery, Burdock & Co. Here, the native Vancouverite continues to craft her edible mastery from wild herbs, sustain-able fish and meats, and seasonal produce brought to her from farmers with whom she has built long-term relationships.

She is also using the first locally grown rice—an Agassiz rice that is in Burdock’s Asian-infused congee with salt-cured wild halibut.

Carlson’s deep, earthy roots grew when she worked at the internationally renowned Sooke Harbour House on Vancouver Island. “For eight months, I was surrounded and completely, selflessly focused on the organic garden, the ocean and nature,” she said. “It was an amazing experience that helped me find my focus.”

At Burdock & Co., simplicity is at the core of every dish, including the popular buttermilk bison ribs and the caramelized pork and fennel ragu. “I try not to manip-ulate things too much or dilute the dishes,” she said, adding that her favorite cookbook is Craig Claiborne’s The New York Times Cookbook she bought when she was 13. “I like to go for lighter flavors so the food speaks for itself without distraction.”

When Carlson isn’t dreaming of new ways to use herbs grown in the Burdock & Co. garden, she heads to the woods or the beach for a long walk before going out for Indian food or “really good” pasta.


If ever there’s a lyric that bottles the es-sence of Seattle-based Hey Marseilles, it’s in their song “Looking Back.” It warns,“If you’re looking back, you’ll never move your feet / If you’re looking back, that’s all you’ll ever see.” This seven-piece orches-tral-pop ensemble follows its own advice, embracing music with a sense of maturity and comfortable exploration of any in-fluence that strikes them in the moment. Led by wayfaring, road-weary lyricism from songwriter Matt Bishop, the band pays homage to traditional folk storytell-ing, backed by a lush bedding of accordi-on, strings and horns. Their stories cut to a universal, emotional core that resonates on a personal level. When they released their debut album To Travels and Trunks in 2008, it served as an unfettered sense of travel and exploration and was ranked as one of the best Pacific Northwest al-

bums of the year by many publications. With the band’s 2013 release, Lines We Trace—and a wealth of touring experi-ence—they grew up even more. A new al-

bum, titled LP3, is expected later this year, as Hey Marseilles continues following its wanderlust on tour, and inspiring people along the way.

Album Review

In the spirit of exploration, Hey Marseilles has swapped its acoustic instruments for electronic ones in the newest album, LP3. Even after plug-ging in, their keen sense of catchy folk-pop songwriting remains. The band has teamed up with three-time Grammy award-winning producer Anthony Kihoffer and shows no signs of slowing down.

LP3

Hey MarseillesBY STIRLING MYLES

CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMINGMusicians

Train TracksA few music tracks from regional

artists for your journeyListen here:

ontrakmag.com/traintracks

To Travels and TrunksHey Marseilles - Seattle, WA

Starts With Them, Ends With Us

Dan Mangan + Blacksmith Vancouver, BC

55th & HalseyHis Name Shall Breathe - Salem, OR

Love and OceansThe Dimes - Vancouver, WA

IndigoOld Wave - Portland, OR

Catch a preview of the album at ontrakmag.com/heymarseilles

https://open.spotify.com/track/5RLSjCJB9pQ3yQk2YTJufZ

https://open.spotify.com/track/1BRePVH14vJlOVv6eomtPm



https://open.spotify.com/track/02p0rkKArPpgFaHBzJGG3h

https://open.spotify.com/track/21mv1MwQHiQSZeXw9a2NFs


WHEN ART CATCHES LIFE, and then seems to go beyond it, the experience is hypnotic. This quality is present in abstract artist April Ponsford's work.

Ponsford was born in 1951 in British Columbia, where nature and wilderness put on a daily breathtaking performance. “I paint the way the world reveals itself to me,” she said about her creative process. “I have always been an observer. Years of self-study have enabled me to develop my own way of expressing tenderness and evoking stories within all my imageries.”

She uses blurred lines that are inspired by nature and the abstract. Her work fo-cuses on simplicity yet opens a structural world to its audience. It catches a mo-ment in life, then turns it into eternity.

“I resist restrictions or formal limita-tions, and challenge myself to experiment and work more from the observation of

nature,” said Ponsford. “My intuition plays an increasingly important role as I con-tinually learn to embrace spontaneity and control within my creative process.”

The hypnotic quality to her work is en-gaged when the eye is caught in a snare of lines and layers. As abstract as it may be, there is something strangely familiar about her images—perhaps it’s the unity in Pons-ford’s lines and strokes.

Her piece, “Underlying Forces,” punc-tuates layers of life with touches of cloudy blue, furious red and golden traces, while a mystical waterfall looms over a dream-like floating world. Everything inside the world seems to cry out for freedom. With every glance, it is possible to discover something you hadn't noticed before.

While working as an educational as-sistant for two decades, Ponsford used art as a doorway for helping children

to express themselves. Eventually, her co-workers asked her to teach art classes, so she enrolled in educational art classes at University of Victoria. It was there that an art teacher noticed her talent and en-couraged her to pursue her own painting in abstract form.

“It has always been of great importance to me to express an emotional connected-ness to nature’s dynamics,” said Ponsford. She hopes that her art will continue to bring about dialogue and “gain meaning through this interaction between the cre-ation and the viewer.”

Ponsford is represented by Ukama Gallery (ukama.ca) in Vancouver, BC, where her exclusive exhibition will run in November.

Entering Layers of Meaning

On StageSHAPE & FORM

Ryan MacDonald

April Ponsford with "The West Coast," which was inspired by a drive from Vancouver Island to Tofino, BC.

BY EDWINE VENIAT

More photos of Ponsford's work at ontrakmag.com/onstage

Exclusive and international woman’s brands, boots, jewelry, gifts and more…

RACHELLE M. RUSTIC HOUSE OF FASHION

Open Monday - Saturday 10:00 am - 9:00 pm • Sunday 11:00 am - 6:00 pm

www.rachellem.com

In the Bridgeport Villageacross from the main parking garage,

where Tigard, Tualatin & Lake Oswego meet

503-336-0546

Portland in the Pearl132 NW 12th Ave.,

corner of 12th & Davis, near Whole Foods

971-319-6934

portlandartmuseum.org

SEEING NATURELANDSCAPE MASTERWORKS

FROM THE PAUL G. ALLEN FAMILY COLLECTION

October 10, 2015 – January 10, 2016

This exhibition is co-organized by Portland Art Museum,

Seattle Art Museum, and the Paul G. Allen Family Collection

This exhibition is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and the Humanities.

Thomas Moran, Grand Canyon of Arizona at Sunset, 1909, Oil on canvas, Paul G. Allen Family Collection

handbags

E

LLINGTON HANDB

AGS O

WN

ED A

ND OPERATED

SINCE 1986

NW 23rd 1211 NW 23rd Avenue Portland, OR • 97210

503-542-3149ellingtonhandbags.com

Mention OnTrak and receive 20% off any regular priced item.


OREGONEVENTS CALENDAR

SIXTH ANNUAL PORTLAND FERMENTATION FESTIVAL October 27 Ecotrust $10-$20 portlandfermentationfestival.com Expand your palate for fermented flavors at this annual Portland event. There will be dozens of fermented foods and beverages to sample along with recipes and tips for making your own at home.

SEEING NATURE: LANDSCAPE MASTERWORKS FROM THE PAUL G. ALLEN COLLECTION Begins October 10 Portland Art Museum Free-$15 portlandartmuseum.org Paul Allen, the multibillion dollar cofounder of Microsoft, has also built a legacy as an avid art collec-tor and supporter of the arts. This fall, pieces in his family collection will be on exhibit at the Portland Art Museum.

WORDSTOCK November 7 Portland Art Museum literary-arts.org Wordstock is the largest literary event in the Pacific Northwest. The one-day festival will include author discussions, readings and activities for the entire family. Since it is Portland, there will also be craft beer and food trucks.

BALLGOWNS TO BLOOMERS: SPOTLIGHT ON THE CLOTHING COLLECTION Through November 15 Pittock Mansion Free-$7 pittockmansion.org This exhibit will showcase the variety of clothing that is in the Pittock Mansion and place the fashions in the context of Port-land history.

20TH ANNUAL HOLIDAY ALE FESTIVAL December 2-6 Pioneer Courthouse Square $35 holidayale.com This 21-and-over event features Oregon’s craft beers made espe-cially for the holiday season. For five days, vendors will showcase fifty craft beers that you won’t be able to find anywhere else.

OREGON BALLET THEATRE PRESENTS: THE NUTCRACKER Begins December 12 Keller Auditorium $30-$150 obt.org Oregon Ballet Theatre’s perfor-mance of The Nutcracker is a Portland holiday tradition. With exciting music and beautiful costumes, everyone in the family will be inspired by this ballet.

Portland TimbersPortlandOctober 25 $35-$182timbers.com

ATTENDING A PORTLAND TIMBERS soccer game has become a can’t-miss event in Portland–that is if you can get a ticket. The stadium has sold out every home game since the team joined Major League Soccer in 2011, and more than 10,000 people are on the waitlist to get season tickets. The most loyal fans call them-selves the Timbers Army, and they lead the stadium in cheers throughout the games. The Major League Soccer season ends in late October, but there is still a chance to grab some friends and family and some green and white Timbers gear and catch a home game this fall.

EUGENECIRQUE DE LA LUNE October 9-11 Hult Center for the Performing Arts $13-$49 balletfantastique.org Cirque de la Lune is an original ballet from Eugene choreogra-phers and producers who bring the fun and excitement of the cir-cus atmosphere to the traditional stage of the ballet.

ANNUAL CLAY FEST October 9-11 Lane Events Center Free clayfest.org Visitors to the seventeenth annual Clay Fest have the opportunity to buy handmade pieces from seventy clay artisans from across Oregon. In the discovery area, kids can learn how to work with clay and can make their own pieces.

MOUNT PISGAH ARBORETUM MUSHROOM FESTIVAL October 25 Mount Pisgah Arboretum Suggested donation mountpisgaharboretum.com Along with a wide selection of mushrooms for purchase, the fes-tival will offer culinary demonstra-tions, live music, and guided nature walks all day at the Arboretum.

MCKENZIE CIDER & CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL November 13 Willamalane Center for Sports and Recreation $15 mccbf.com In the fourth annual McKenzie Cider & Craft Beer festival, visitors can taste seventy ciders and beers from the Northwest. Kids are welcome at the festival from noon to 5 p.m. on Saturday.

ALBANYOyster Cloyster November 7 Oregon Coast Aquarium $75-$175 oystercloyster.com Oregon-based chefs compete to see who can prepare the best oys-ter dish, and guests enjoy hearty bounty, Oregon wine and Rogue beer as they explore the aquarium after hours. Casino games and live music are also on the menu.

SALEMBRUNK HOUSE APPLE FESTIVAL October 10 Historical Brunk House Free polkcountyhistoricalsociety.org Bring the whole family to the historic Brunk House to celebrate fall. You’ll get the chance to help make cider on an antique apple press and try a variety of apple desserts and ciders.

OREGON CITYHALLOWEEN FANTASY TRAIL October 1-31 Wenzel Farm Free fantasytrail.com The fantasy trail is 1,000 feet of wooded walkways through the decorated Wenzel Farm. On the trail, you’ll also encounter a forty-foot castle, suspension bridge, tunnel and maze.

PORTLANDPORTLAND CENTER STAGE PRESENTS: OUR TOWN Through October 11 Portland Center Stage Gerding Theater at the Armory $25-$30 pcs.org Portland Center Stage presents its revival of the classic, Pulitzer Prize-winning play, Our Town. Set in the early twentieth century, Thornton Wilder’s drama follows the everyday lives of a group of people in a small town with themes that still resonate today.

CORN MAiZE Through November 1 The Pumpkin Patch $7 portlandmaze.com Now open for almost two decades, the corn maze at The Pumpkin Patch on Sauvie Island gets families out of the city to enjoy beautiful farms.

WORLD WAR II: A WORLD AT WAR, A STATE TRANSFORMED Through December 7 Oregon History Museum $11 ohs.org In the seventieth year after World War II ended, the Oregon History Museum presents an exhibit of documents and photographs that explore how the war transformed Oregon.

No tickets? No problem. Portland Timbers partners with a host of Portland pubs where you can belly up with fellow fans and enjoy a match with plenty of food and drinks.

THE STATION | 2703 NE Alberta Street | stationpdx.comSIDE STREET TAVERN | 828 SE 34th Avenue | sidestreetpdx.comKELLS IRISH PUB | 112 SW 2nd Avenue | kellsportland.comPROST! | 4237 N Mississippi Avenue | prostportland.comRINGLERS PUB | 1332 W Burnside Street | mcmenamins.com442 SOCCER BAR | 1739 SE Hawthorne Blvd. | 442soccerbar.com

For a complete list of the Pub Program, go to timbers.com.

Ray Terrill

http://polkcountyhistoricalsociety.org

804 10th St Bellingham WA (888) 808-0005 thechrysalisinn.com

*Not available with any other promotions or discounts.Rates valid Oct 1, 2015 – April 30, 2016.

Some restrictions may apply. Must present train ticket.

2 night stay any day of the weekSide view or full view deluxe roomTaxi fare to & from the Amtrak stationFun train-themed amenities

$359 + tax

All aboard the Winter Express to Bellingham!


WashingtonEVENTS CALENDAR

VANCOUVERDRINK THIS! VANCOUVER October 24 Downtown Vancouver Free drinkthisvancouver.comFrom 4 p.m. to 9 p.m., you’ll have the chance to walk around the heart of downtown Vancouver and get to know the artisan beverages of the city as well as the people who make them.

FARMERS’ MARKET Saturdays and Sundays through November 1 Downtown Vancouver Free vancouverfarmersmarket.com The Vancouver Farmers’ Market has at least 250 vendors selling fresh, local produce and artisan goods.

OLYMPIA/LACEYOLYMPIA FILM FESTIVAL November 6-15 Capitol Theater $10-$25 olympiafilmsociety.org Thousands of people have gathered in Washington’s capital city for the last twenty years for the Olympia Film Festival, which features ten days of films, panels and workshops highlighting inde-pendent films and filmmakers.

TACOMAHOLIDAY FOOD & GIFT FESTIVAL October 22-25 Tacoma Dome Free-$14.50 tacomadome.org This Holiday Food & Gift Festival is the largest event of its kind in the West. One of the highlights includes cooking demonstrations, at which some of the region’s top chefs teach audiences how to cook traditional and flavorful holiday meals.

SEATTLEINTIMATE IMPRESSIONISM FROM THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART Begins October 1 Seattle Art Museum Free-$19.50 seattleartmuseum.org The Seattle Art Museum will host the Intimate Impressionism ex-hibit, which is on tour for the first time from the National Gallery of Art. Almost seventy paintings will be on display from turn-of-the-century French master impressionists.

MAPLE VIEWING FESTIVAL October 11 Seattle Japanese GardenFree-$6 seattlejapanesegarden.org Gaze at the incredible display of colors from the Garden’s maple trees and enjoy live performances of traditional Japanese music.

PUMPKIN BASH October 18-19, 25-26, 31 Woodland Park Zoo Free with zoo admission or membership zoo.org Bring the whole family to the zoo for activities, crafts and trick-or-treating. The zoo animals get their own pumpkins as treats every year, and guests get to watch as the hippos, elephants, meerkats and bears munch their way through the pumpkins.

HALLOWEEN TRAIN October 24-31 Northwest Railway Museum Free trainmuseum.org To celebrate fall and Halloween, the Northwest Railway Museum hosts a train ride with Hallow-een-themed activities and warm apple cider.

DIA DE MUERTOS October 31-November 1 Seattle Center Free seattlecenter.com Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is a traditional Mexican hol-iday that celebrates the memory of people who have died. In Seat-tle, the holiday is celebrated with live music, food and a traditional altar offering.

70TH ANNUAL HOLIDAY TREE LIGHTING November 28 Pantages Theater Free broadwaycenter.org The Holiday Tree Lighting has been a Seattle tradition for the last seventy years. At this free event, the community can sing carols and take photographs with Santa.

EDMONDSSEATTLE INTERNATIONAL COMEDY COMPETITION SEMI-FINALS November 18 $15-$34 edmondscenterforthearts.com For nearly forty years, the Seattle International Comedy Competition has featured talented comedians from the Pacific Northwest and is one of the largest touring comedy festivals in the United States.

EVERETTDISNEY ON ICE: FROZEN November 18-22 XFINITY Arena $32-$87 disneyonice.com All those songs you couldn’t get out of your head last year are

back—and now they’re live. The classic Disney on Ice performanc-es bring Elsa, Anna and Olaf to a real-life frozen stage.

BELLINGHAM26TH ANNUAL LYNDEN CRAFT & ANTIQUE SHOW October 15-17 Washington Fairgrounds Free-$6 lyndencraftantiqueshow.com The Lynden Craft & Antique Show will feature antiques along with over one hundred artisans and their handcrafted goods. There will also be seasonal drinks and food for purchase.

Apple Festival September 26-October 31 Olympia Free, $5 to park lattinscider.com

IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR an escape from the city this fall, you’ll want to venture out to Lattin’s Country Cider Mill & Farm. The farm, which is only a short drive or bus ride from the Olympia-Lacey Amtrak Cascades station, is known for its national award-winning apple cider. Each year, for six weekends, the farm hosts its Apple Festival. Enjoy music and activities each day along with classic harvest festivities such as wagon rides to the pumpkin patch, bobbing for apples, a small petting farm and more.

Jema Anderson

http://zoo.org

http://lyndencraftantiqueshow.com

Hit the road and experience Oregon’s dynamic landscapes

NOW ONVIEW

1680 E. 15th Ave. · 541-346-3024 · natural-history.uoregon.edu · Tuesday–Sunday, 11:00 a.m. –5:00 p.m.

Ontrak Spring Issue.indd 1 2/4/2015 12:08:32 PM

Stroll among more than 700 historic homes and buildings in four historic districts. Watch wood-carvers bring a menagerie of hand-crafted carousel animals to life.Celebrate the beauty of hot air balloons at the award-winning Northwest Art & Air Festival.

See

ALBANYALBANYDiscover Oregon

541-928-0911 • 110 3rd Ave SE, Albany OR 97321

>>

>>

>> Call today and begin planning your next trip!

>> See Albany Oregon’s Seven Wondrous Journeys

>>


Vancouver, BCEVENTS CALENDAR

TEA AND TOUR Every Sunday Roedde House Museum C$8 roeddehouse.org Every Sunday at the Roedde House, families can enjoy artisan tea crafted especially for the historic house. Also, the museum showcases early twentieth-centu-ry life in Vancouver.

ART/BOOK FAIR October 17-18 Vancouver Art Gallery Free 2015.vancouverartbookfair.com The Vancouver Art/Book Fair is one of two international book fairs on the West Coast. The event hosts publishers and booksellers from around the world, as well as performances and installations from artists.

VANCOUVER HOME + DESIGN SHOW October 22-25 Vancouver Convention Centre West C$16 vancouverhomeanddesignshow.com Whether you’re a design fanatic or just in need of some creative inspiration, the Vancouver Home + Design Show will have something for you. There will be 300 exhibitors showcasing the newest and most innovative work

OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN November 18 Vancouver Aquarium TBA vanaqua.org The Chowder Chowdown hosts a competition among chefs to create the best seafood chowder in Canada, and all of the proceeds go toward sustainable seafood. This 19-and-over event also fea-tures some of the best chowder and craft beer in Canada.

(IN)VISIBLE: THE SPIRITUAL WORLD OF TAIWAN THROUGH CONTEMPORARY ART Begins November 20 UBC Museum of Anthropology C$9-$44.75 moa.ubc.ca Seven visual artists from the University of British Columbia explore the spiritual and cultural traditions of Taiwan and how they are integrated with the modern values of the country.

CHRISTMAS MARKET November 21-December 24 Queen Elizabeth Theatre Plaza Free to C$10 vancouverchristmasmarket.com With food, warm drinks and a variety of activities, the Vancouver Christmas Market is a place for much more than finding holiday gifts. The market is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day and will host live entertainment.

HOPSCOTCH FESTIVAL November 23-28 PNE Forum C$45-$50 hopscotchfestival.com For its twentieth anniversary cel-ebration, the Hopscotch Festival promises to provide more than 300 beers, whiskeys and spirits to sample from more than 100 vendors. Located in the historic PNE Forum, the festival will also offer gourmet food to sample and live music.

BRIGHT NIGHTS IN STANLEY PARK November 26-January 2 Stanley Park Donation, need to purchase tickets to ride the train brightnights.ca For more than twenty years, riding the holiday train through the bright lights and decorations and performances has been a Vancouver tradition.

in design, entertaining and home improvement.

EMBRACING CANADA: LANDSCAPES FROM KRIEGHOFF TO THE GROUP OF SEVEN Begins October 30 Vancouver Art Gallery Free-C$50 vanartgallery.ca Admire the vast natural beauty of Canada through landscape paintings of the country from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

WINTER MARKET Begins November 1 4601 Ontario StreetFree eatlocal.org Beginning November 1, the winter farmers’ market opens in downtown Vancouver, so you won’t be without fresh and local produce and other bounty throughout the season.

BROADWAY ACROSS CANADA PRESENTS: ONCE November 17-22 Queen Elizabeth Theatre C$93-$210 vancouver.broadway.com Once started as an independent film that received international recognition for its compelling love story and amazing soundtrack, and now it’s a Broadway musical.

19th Annual Eastside Culture Crawl

November 19-22 Vancouver Free culturecrawl.ca

At the annual Eastside Culture Crawl spread through-out Vancouver's Eastside, visitors have the opportunity to visit a variety of art galleries and studios, and see how the artists work. For almost twenty years, the Culture Crawl has drawn tens of thousands of people to a four-day event that highlights dozens of artists in Vancouver. The artist’s studios and galleries stay open late to the public and showcase the work of local artists with international reputations. With presentations and exhi-bitions on the agenda throughout the long weekend, the event is much more than a gallery walk—it’s a chance to learn about the variety of art being created in the heart of Vancouver while supporting local culture.

Jodie Ponto

http://vancouverhomeanddesignshow.com

http://vancouverhomeanddesignshow.com

http://brightnights.ca

http://eatlocal.org

ECO MODERN VACATION RENTALS IN PORTLAND'S

HIPPEST NEIGHBORHOODS

SHIFTVACATIONRENTALS.COM503 - 8 67 - 0 900

VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6

Front Break |4 bedrooms & 2 baths with a modern farmhouse feel.Rear Break |5 bedrooms & 3 baths, a new eco luxury home.

shiftVACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6


VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6


VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6


VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6


VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6

High Gear|4 bedrooms & 2 baths with creative artistic design.Low Gear |3 bedrooms & 1.5 baths with a warm organic style.

�issis

sippi �

istrict

Alber

ta Arts

Distr

ict


VACATION RENTALS


VACATION RENTALS

C:48 M:0 Y:83 K:0 C:52 M:0 Y:23 K:0 C:51 M:42 Y:41 K:6


STANDING ON THE NORTH edge of Lake Union beneath an azure sky—mighty Rainier rising behind the Seattle cityscape, synchronized rowers slicing across the wa-ter—University of Washington men’s crew coach Michael Callahan is a familiar figure.

UW’s men’s rowing team has an es-pecially rich history. In 1903, at a time when Seattle desired to be more than a pioneer town, an estimated 5,000 people showed up to witness the first intercolle-giate rowing race between California and Washington. The legacy of UW rowing is among the world’s elite with legends such as hull-maker George Pocock and coach Al Ulbrickson. Husky Crew teams have won countless championships, including forty-two Olympic medals.

Callahan, now in his twelfth year at UW and eighth year as the head coach of the Washington men's team, helped establish Husky Crew as a modern force in world row-ing. Before coaching, Callahan built his own impressive résumé on collegiate, national and Olympic rowing teams (he graduated from University of Washington in 1996).

Among Callahan’s feats—in June 2015, the Washington men’s crew made history by winning their fifth straight and eigh-teenth overall IRA National Champion-ship and ninth straight Ten Eyck trophy, an achievement previously unseen in collegiate rowing. Callahan has now led the Huskies to five straight national

Legends of the Lake

Outdoors

BY CORINNE WHITING

33. Outdoors | 34. Gear Up | 36. Notes from the Adventure | 40. Weekenders

UW Crew Coach Michael Callahan gracefully glides into another season

PHOTOS BY KAIA D’ALBORA


Outdoors

The Pacific Northwest has always been a center of excellence for rowing. There are a number of rowing clubs throughout the region, all of which offer learn-to-row classes. Here are Callahan’s recommendations:

Lake Washington Rowing Clublakewashingtonrowing.comIn Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood, get the experience of taking Learn to Row classes in single-person boats.

Lake Union Crewlakeunioncrew.comIn Seattle’s Westlake, find year-round, four-week-long, learn-to-row programs.

Mount Baker Rowing and Sailing CenterOn the shores of Lake Washington, join an adult program or a junior crew program for novice and varsity rowers.

championships, six during his eight seasons. Thirteen of his rowers have gone on to become Olympians.

Callahan, who thinks his team would describe him as “challenging, passionate and fair,” has received praise for pushing his athletes in academics as well as on the water. In spring 2014, the Husky men’s crew had the highest team GPA of UW’s large sports teams. “We talk about excellence being fluid—we expect our student-athletes to be pas-sionate and push themselves

in multiple areas,” Callahan said. “Interestingly, our best athletes also tend to be our best students.”

Pondering this year’s out-look, Callahan is optimistic, though the team graduated a large group of talented se-niors. “Even with this youth, we have high hopes for them and expect that we will once again be competing for a na-tional championship,” he said.

The most trying part of Callahan’s job is the constant evolution. “The challenging and rewarding parts of the team come hand-in-hand,”

Callahan commented. “Be-cause each team is different, I find myself constantly hav-ing to adapt and tweak our process, which causes a lot of self-reflection. This constant change and adaption is tough but also very rewarding.”

After twelve years of soggy training and racing, his spirits are undiminished. “There ar-en’t many experiences that beat being on the water at sunrise on a clear day… or even on a rainy day!” he said.

LEARN

DON'T MISS

The Montlake Cut is UW’s home racecourse and is one of the best places in the world to watch a rowing race because of its intimate atmosphere. “You feel like you are on top of the races,” said Callahan.

To see more photos of the UW crew team, go to ontrakmag.com/legends Go to GoHuskies.com for UW

crew schedule.

ABOVE The UW crew team practices in Lake Union. LEFT Coach Michael Callahan helped establish Husky Crew as a modern force in world rowing.

Downtown Portland’s Eastside Luxury Boutique

hoteleastlund.com503.235.2100

STAY | EAT | BE

Go where the night takes you

NOW OPEN!Introductory Rates Starting at $189

The Postcard That’s Real

We’re Oceanfront & Newly Remodeled

844.297.0173 | hallmarkinns.com

CANNON�BEACH��ORClosest to Haystack RockOnly Hotel Spa in Town

Pet & Family Friendly

NEWPORT��OREvery Room Has a View

Georgie’s Beachside GrillPet & Family Friendly


It was early in Eugene, Ore-gon, with the day just a pale blue blade in the sky. Down on Willamette Street, orange light filtered from the station to melt soft bands of the dy-ing night. Inside, people were congregating with suitcases and backpacks. I took a seat on a long wooden bench.

The station’s bright yellow walls and tidy craftsman trim seemed almost his-toric in their appeal, and I

recalled a time when going somewhere—anywhere—was a really big deal. Posters advertising the various rail lines played on this feel-ing with that old-school Art Déco style. The Pacific Surfliner, Ski Amtrak, the Empire Builder. Ours, the Amtrak Cascades, would be here soon.

I’ve been to Seattle plenty of times but never like this and never with my friend Scott Aycock. I travel a lot these days for work and Scott, a single dad, doesn’t get away as much as he’d like.

The Amtrak station is close to some of Eugene’s

biggest attractions, such as the handsome Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art at the University of Oregon and Autzen Stadium where the Ducks play. You can ride bikes along the Ruth Bascom Riverbank paths and see the park where track legend Steve Prefontaine used to run for fun. “It’s more than just a race,” Pre would say. “It’s a style.”

Our style began right here at 5:15 a.m. on a crisp fall Friday. Looking around the room, I saw that I wasn’t the only one who felt this sense of relief. Two students in Ducks hoodies relaxed and

chatted, already on their way to somewhere. A young girl climbed on the back of the depot benches.

The train arrived right on time. I stepped outside and watched it rumble in. The sound of the bells dinging in rhythmic bursts grew louder as the engine’s headlights shone in triplicate with star-like intensity. Steel squeaked on steel. As the train drifted to a halt, I studied the springs, the levers, the enor-mous bolts. No wonder kids like locomotives so much. They are giant Erector sets, but now with bistro cars and wi-fi.

I first felt the freedom of train travel as a kid thanks to my dad. My father grew up in a small railroad town called Cape Charles, which sits at the southern tip of the Eastern Shore of Virgin-ia. There, engines running down from New York would stop at the broad backstop of the Chesapeake Bay, and passengers would trade trains for steamships bound for Norfolk and other points south. The rolling stock itself would go onto barges for the twenty-mile crossing. There was no bridge until 1960.

But for much of my father’s youth, the buzz of the rail yards, the new faces that came and went, the trains that smoked and the ships that steamed all left an indelible impression on him. Later, he helped start a mu-seum in Cape Charles that pays homage to

Notes FromThe AdventureTRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN

BY TIM NEVILLE

A present reunion of a past journey

Talia Galvin

Time Traveling on Trains

Meet. Eat. Sleep.

Minutes from the Salem, Oregon Amtrak StationComplimentary shuttle to and from The Grand Hotel

503-540-7800 201 Liberty St. SE Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

OnTrakAdFall2015.pdf 1 9/28/15 2:33 PM

at The Oregon Gardenminutes from Salem oregongarden.org

NOV 27 - JAN 3

chihulygardenandglass.com

located at the base of the space needle, seattle centeR

iGnite youR inspiRation

chihulygardenandglass .com

located at the base of the space needle, seattle centeR

as you walk through the Galleries, Garden and Glasshouse, Chihuly Garden and Glass immerses you in dale chihuly’s work in a whole new way.


Outdoorsthose trains.

As for me, growing up I had HO-scale

sets and gorgeous models of steam engines that sat on our shelves. Black and white pictures of trains hung on our walls. On family trips, dad often drove us hours out of our way to take scenic rides on steam engines.

It wasn’t until I was 18 that I truly understood dad’s passion for the rails. By that time, I was living in Europe as a pimply ex-change student enamored with the Alps. Trains were everywhere, of course, and I marveled at how I, a car-less teen, could walk out my front door in Switzerland, catch the 6:32 intercity out of Geneva and ride all the way to Moscow if my host family had let me. I took trains to school on week-days and trains to go hiking on weekends. It was all so simple, exotic and new. Friends and I would drink wine, eat cheese, play cards or sleep along the way.

Another exchange student named John Peterson had become my train buddy in Switzerland. He lived in a small town toward the southern end of Lake Neuchâtel, which, without the train, would have sat an impossible distance away. Sometimes we’d ride in our snowboard boots, ready to meet at a cable car at the base of a ski area on a powder day. The possibilities were huge.

John and I had kept in touch for a while once we came back to the States, but eventually the lines faded.

A few days before Scott and I took off—almost twen-

ty-two years after I’d last seen John waving goodbye at the entrance of the Foggy Bottom metro—an email landed in my inbox. “If you’re the Tim who was an exchange student in Switzer-land, then HELLO!!!” it read. “A happy accident spurred me to use a modicum of search-fu, and voilà.”

He was living in Seattle, where I was en route by train.

Scott and I hadn’t reached our first stop, Albany, when we made the bistro car for breakfast, lured by an announcement over the speakers. “The oatmeal is hot and ready to go!” a voice boomed. “Come down and get your oatmeal!”

We took a seat by the window, ate and chatted over coffee. I told Scott how the dining car, with its slick lines and elegant wood finishes, reminded me of the bistro cars of the Deutsche Bahn in Germany. Only here, the ceiling was decorated with a map of the Olympic Peninsula.

Salem. Oregon City. The stops came and went as the black fields whipping by the windows gradually brightened to gray and then green in the morning light. A harvester dumped grain into a truck. We zoomed past a forklift rolling down the highway. The humid, sluggish earth exhaled the night.

In Portland, we disem-barked at Union Station for a few minutes before getting back onboard with snacks. From there, we crossed the Columbia, where the fisher-men were casting for steel-head, and then up to Kelso. Word trickled through

the car that thousands of travelers on the East Coast were temporarily stranded due to a glitch in a computer system that routes planes. Scott and I played dominoes in the lounge car.

At last, we pulled into Seattle and checked into a hotel near Pioneer Square, which was one of the city’s first neighborhoods. Buildings such as the Smith Tower, formerly the tallest building on the West Coast and now 100 years old, were soaring examples of the Re-naissance Revival architec-ture in that district. Inside a copper and brass elevator climbs to an observation deck on the thirty-fifth floor for full-circle views of the city.

Scott and I meandered to Pike Place Market and found a Cajun joint outside the frenetic tourist spots. We downed warm plates of jambalaya. We then headed next door to a Mexican bar, where John met us.

He looked exactly the same—tall, quick to smile and undamaged by time. His bangs weren’t quite so surfer and no longer bound by a bandana.

It turned out that after we lost touch, John had moved to Seattle to work for Mic-rosoft. He’d been with the company for thirteen years

when it laid him off. Now he’s a full-time dad raising two kids. He’s been back to Switzerland once.

We walked and talked into Belltown. John point-ed to where engineers were building a massive new highway tunnel and a building so big that it could serve as a shipping crate for the Space Needle. He said the Burke-Gilman Trail was nearby. Built in the 1970s for bike commuters, walkers and runners, the nineteen-mile-long path was one of the first rails-to-trails projects in the country.

All of us ended that night at a pizza joint, Serious Pie, and knocked off Holy Moun-tain beers before heading off to Radiator Whiskey for old fashioneds. We talked about trains and Switzerland as if time had never passed.

Over the next few days, we took in a mix of urban and natural delights. Scott and I hiked around the ferny trails of Seward Park on Lake Washington, which used to be an island. Engineers built a shipping canal into Puget Sound that dropped the lake’s water level and exposed a land bridge. We ate tangy kumamoto oysters at Taylor Shellfish and sharp chipotle-tinga tacos at Casco Antiguo. We joined 42,000 soccer fans to watch the Sounders trounce Orlando City four-nil, though it all made Scott uneasy as a Port-land Timbers fan. “A pit of vipers,” he called the crowd, only half joking.

That night, we peo-ple-watched from twen-ty-two floors up in the hotel, the city rising around us in great columns of light.

“Then, almost twenty-two years after I’d last seen John ... an email landed in my inbox.”

Discover adventure at Red Lion Hotels. With exciting locations, modern accommodations and a great sta� that knows all the best spots in town, the only question is... where to?

Book your next adventure at redlion.com

OnTrack Magazine

EXTENDED STAY

© 2015 RLHC. All rights reserved


POLITICALLY SPEAKING, Oregon and Washington have more in common than a shared border.

They lean toward the liber-al, rely on similar industries, and meld west-of-the-Cas-cade-Mountains urban priori-ties with eastside rural ones.

The Northwest neighbors diverge notably, however, when it comes to the architec-ture of their capitol buildings.

The Washington State Legislative Building, on a bluff overlooking Olympia,

was completed in 1928, on the eve of the Great De-pression. It is an American cathedral that has the largest collection of Tiffany-made light fixtures anywhere.

More reserved yet still impressive, the Oregon State Capitol in Salem—dedicated in 1938 after a fire destroyed its predecessor—is one of just three Art Déco-styled statehouses in the country.

Amtrak Cascades whisks passengers the 160 miles between the capital cities,

Bacon, basil and tomato bruschetta at Amadeus

Music and produce at Olympia Farmers’ Market

History, Architecture and Politics Combine in a Salem-to-Olympia Tour

Capitol GainsBY JAMES SINKS

EATSassy Onion Grill

Flavorful breakfasts for an array of palates, plus mimosas and

French press coffee. A short walk to the train station.

Salemsassyonion.com

AmadeusNorthwest and Mediterra-

nean-influenced menu boasts harissa chicken skewers, risotto, seafood and creative cocktails.

Salemamadeussalem.com

Darby’s CaféHearty, eclectic breakfast and

lunch fare (and bloody marys) in a kitschy downtown setting.

Olympiadarbyscafe.com

Budd Bay CafeSurf and turf, salads and desserts, including a bargain sunset menu. The real star is the view overlook-

ing the marina. Olympia

buddbaycafe.com

STAYThe Grand Hotel

Salemgrandhotelsalem.com

Governor HotelOlympia

olympiagovernorhotel.com

PLAYSalem Cinema

Independent three-screen the-ater shows art and foreign films.

www.salemcinema.com

Olympia Farmers’ MarketFresh produce and seafood, plus live music as many as four days a week, depending on the season.

olympiafarmersmarket.com

Eugene Pavlov

Did You Know?D.Y.K.

At 287 feet, the dome atop Washington State’s

Legislative Building is the fifth tallest masonry dome in the world and

the tallest in North Ame-rica. It is surpassed by St.

Peter’s Cathedral in Rome and the Santa Maria Del

Fiore in Florence.

WeekenderMAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND

http://grandhotelsalem.com

http://www.olympiafarmersmarket.com


Weekender

meaning you could tour both statehouses in a single day. Better yet, meander and make a government geek-out weekend of it.

Oregon’s Capitol sits just six blocks from the Salem station, between Willamette University and the flowering cherry tree-ringed Capitol Mall. Atop the dome stands a 23-foot-high, gold-covered “Oregon Pioneer,” which can be seen close-up on tours in good weather.

Inside, the vaulted ro-tunda greets visitors with paintings depicting the Oregon Trail and Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery. Pink travertine covers the hallway walls, and pioneer names decorate the legisla-tive chambers.

Open weekdays, the Cap-itol is filled with a constant din when the ninety-mem-ber assembly is in session. When lawmakers depart,

it is a favorite venue for choirs, as the acoustics are top notch.

Don’t be surprised to see a little dust: An effort to make the building more seismical-ly sound is underway.

Browse the gift shop, state library and eclectic fare in Salem’s downtown, where political chatter is frequently on the menu.

Trek north to Wash-ington, where the Olym-pia-Lacey Amtrak station is a twenty-minute cab ride to the city center. Once downtown, the government campus is reached easily on foot or via a free bus loop.

Ornately decorated, the Roman-Neoclassical legislative building is topped by the fifth-highest stone masonry dome in the world. Inside dangles a five-ton Tiffany chandelier so mas-sive you could fit a VW Bug inside it.

You’ll see the desks of 147 legislators, marble quarried across the globe, and a rare forty-two-star American flag, sewn in 1889 but never flown because Idaho joined the union before official flags were updated.

Daily tours begin just inside the north entry, across from the Supreme Court’s Temple of Justice on the 435-acre, monument- and park-filled government grounds.

At the gift shop, grab a Washington-grown Repub-lican merlot or Democrat merlot, depending on your taste.

Afterward, zigzag down-hill to Capitol Lake and to one of many waterfront wa-tering holes at the southern tip of Puget Sound. In the shadow of Olympia’s famous dome, it turns out, good government and good spir-its go together nicely.

Washington’s capitol building, in Olympia, features a five-ton Tiffany chandelier.

Oregon State CapitolGuided tours Monday-Friday (except December)10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m. and 2:30 p.m.

Upward bound?Tours in summer months can include climbing 121 steps to the Oregon Pioneer and observation deck, weather permitting.

In sessionOregon lawmakers meet starting in February. Ses-sions in odd-numbered years can be as long as 160 days; sessions in even-num-bered years are limited to thirty-five days.

Washington State CapitolGuided toursHourly, 7 days a week,10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on week-days, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on weekends.

Sense of Adventure?The “Adventure Tour” is geared toward K-2nd graders, and runs weekdays from May to December and includes a coloring book.

In sessionWashington lawmakers meet beginning in January. In odd-numbered years, they meet for 105 days. Sessions in even-numbered years can last 60 days.


CORNUCOPIAALTON BAKER PARK

UO DUCK STORE “SCO DUCKS!” my friend bellowed as we boarded the Amtrak train heading south from Portland. He was still pretty sober at that point, but excited. Friends from Seattle drove down to Portland the night before, and we hopped the train to Eugene to avoid the I-5 game-day mess. Our group of recent alumni—with budding careers and dead-end internships that had scat-

tered us across the North-west—chose this occasion for a reunion. It was the annual U of O and UW matchup.

We had graduated from the University of Oregon only four months before football season, but we couldn’t wait to return to Autzen Stadium as sophis-ticates who had conquered the real world and who had finer tastes than cheap beer

and discount gin. The biggest advantage to riding the train on game day is leaving the driving to the conductor. We packed a whole car with green and yellow, along with our brave (and tolerant), purple-clad opponents. The train left Union Station around 10 a.m. and for two-and-a-half-hours we played drinking games, complained about having nine-to-five jobs or moving back in with mom and dad, and talked plenty of pre-game smack with our UW friends. They reminded us a dozen or so

#RailgatingThe bridge from

downtown to Autzen. Alton Baker Park is worth a quick meander if you have

the time.

If you need to stock your wardrobe with

green and yellow, the Duck Store has multi-ple Oregon locations.

Experience railgating for yourself with these Pac-12 games along the Amtrak Cascades route.

FootballPac-12

BY ANNA BIRD

WeekenderMAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND

With two Eugene locations, “The

Corn on Fifth” is the closest to the

train station. Opt for sweet potato fries

with a tasty burger.

DUCKS in EUGENEU of O vs. California - November 7

U of O vs. USC - November 21U of O vs. OSU - November 27

OSU vs. Colorado - October 24OSU vs. UCLA - November 7

OSU vs. Washington - November 21

BEAVERS in CORVALLIS UW vs. Oregon - October 17 UW vs. Arizona - October 31UW vs. WSU - November 27

HUSKIES in SEATTLE

The Huskies host the Ducks this year on October 17.

Chris Poulson

Eric Evans/

godu

cks.c

om


Weekender

times about our devastating loss to Arizona two weeks before. “Mariota just had an off game,” we retorted. “He’s going to win the Heisman anyway!”

As soon as we stepped off the train in Eugene, we walked to Cornucopia on 5th Avenue to fuel up on their tasty handmade burgers. It was a little after noon, and kickoff was at 5 p.m., so we needed sustenance. An hour later, we made the trek to Autzen (1.7 miles) across the river, through Alton Baker Park and along Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard. When the stadium came

into view and we could see the giant yellow O, we felt like we were coming home. Throngs of football fans were making their way to the sta-dium for tailgating, and we meandered our way through the parking lot, seeking old friends. We found a familiar tailgate and began reminisc-ing and throwing out game predictions.

It felt great to be back in that atmosphere for another season of cheering on Mar-iota … I mean, the Ducks. It took the whole team to deliver a stinging 45-20 loss to the Huskies. Recounting eleven consecutive losses

to the Ducks, our friends weren’t horribly shocked by the outcome.

On the trip back to Portland, we decided not to blabber on about our superior football team. After all, Duck fans are known for being gracious winners. We all agreed, however, that this “railgating” needed to become our new football tradition. On October 17 this year, we’re riding the rails into Husky territory, hoping that a Mariota-less Duck team will extend its UW winning streak to twelve years.

EatTrack Town PizzaThis Eugene staple is on the campus side of the Autzen footbridge. The greasy pizza will fill you up, and the spir-ited décor will fill you with Duck pride. 1809 Franklin Boulevard541.284.8484tracktownoncampus.com

Brails RestaurantBrails has been voted the best hangover breakfast in Eugene. With a hearty collection of classic breakfast foods and delicious bloody marys, you’ll feel tip-top before the train ride home. 1689 Willamette Street541.343.1542brailseugene.com

DrinkThe CoolerRight down the street from Autzen, The Cooler offers a laid-back, old-school bar atmosphere for sippin’ and talking stats. Get the local Hop Valley Citrus Mistress IPA on tap. 20 Centennial Loop541.484.4355thecoolerbar.com

Rennie’s LandingA favorite campus watering hole, Rennie’s is the best campus bar for students and non-students alike. Try a signature Rennie’s cocktail. 1214 Kincaid Street541.687.0600rennieslanding.com

StayRed Lion Inn & SuitesStarting at $89 a night. 599 E. Broadway541.345.2331redlion.com

Valley River InnStarting at $119 a night. 1000 Valley River Way541.743.1000valleyriverinn.com

Inn at the 5th Starting at $232 a night. 205 E 6th Avenue541.743.4099innat5th.com

Eric Evans/goducks.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP UW and U of O play Autzen Stadium. On the way to Autzen, take the Peter DeFazio Bike Bridge to Alton Baker Park. Refuel with a handmade burger at Cornucopia.

For more information on Amtrak Cascades’ Game Train, “like” OnTrak Magazine on Facebook for updates.


VINEYARDS CLIMB THE SIDES of volcanoes, they terrace above gushing rivers, and they roll through alluvial flood plains carved by Ice Age glaciers. Delicate pinot noir and truculent syrah grapes hang, purple skinned, from the vines. Even late in the season, when all other grapes have been harvested and barreled, reislings shudder against a coming snowstorm, waiting to be plucked and turned into ice wine.

So goes wine in the Pacific Northwest, where Oregon—now synonymous with pinot noir—marries the fruit forward-ness of New World style with the earthy qualities typical in Burgandy. Washing-ton, with its dry climate and long, hot days followed by cool nights, has become renowned for wines that bridge the best of the Old and New World. Think smoky, complex syrahs and chardonnays that are high in fruit and acid, and low in ma-nipulation. Up north, British Columbia offers such a diverse range of landscape and temperatures that it is home to ev-erything from lush, heat-seeking syrahs to decadent ice wines.

For the wine lover, the good news is that while grape-growing regions are often farther inland, myriad tasting rooms are popping up along the Amtrak Cascades route, allowing the chance to take alternative transportation and taste the best of a state or province without straying far from the rails.

An Oenophile’s Guide to OregonAt the southern end of the famed Wil-lamette Valley, vineyards splay across hills, interspersed by rolling roads.

More than thirty-five wineries and tasting rooms rise in and around the Eola Hills north of Salem—a sub Amer-ican Viticultural Area (AVA) of the Willamette Valley—including a cluster near Zena Road, just eleven miles north of Salem proper.

Gnarled vines fall into rows below the elegant Bethel Heights tasting room. These are some of the valley’s oldest vines. The west block was already planted when two families bought the land here in 1977, and today there are approximately 100 acres under vine.

The coastal wind that sweeps through from the Pacific Ocean makes the Eola Hills cooler than other parts of the Willamette. This is reflected in the estate wines in the form of fruit-forward chardonnays and the Flat Block pinot noir, with its wet rock and plum nose and palate.

Below Bethel Heights is St. Innocent, where you can taste wines from Eola Hills and other Willamette Valley AVAs. Time it well and you could stumble into a comparative tasting—say a sampling of the 2011 versus 2013 Zenith pinot noir—vintages of different age and weather. This is where learning hap-

pens. When you’re able to focus on one varietal, you can begin to discern the differences in the soils, winemaking styles and vintages.

Four miles south at Walter Scott, owner Ken Pahlow knows his terroir. Each Walter Scott wine comes from a single vineyard, and each vineyard delivers its own flavor—from Sojourner Vineyard with its clay and round rocks to Temperance Hill with its cool volca-nic hillside and a slight taste of volcanic smokiness present in each sip of the finished product.

On a clear day, Mt. Jefferson is visible to the east from the Cristom tasting room. It’s not just pinot noir on the menu. Cristom is also known for its chardonnay, syrah and pinot noir blends.

When your palate can handle no

SALEM Taste Near the TrainBentley’s Grill, adjoining the Grand Hotel and the convention center, is dedicated to American wines, especially wines from Oregon and Washington. Nearly 100 bottles of the 200-plus bottle list come from Oregon—with a handful of California wines rounding out the mix. Bentley’s also serves forty wines on tap, meaning you can sample at least five Oregon pinot noirs by the glass without committing to a bottle purchase.

Pacific Northwest on the Palate

BY JULIE H. CASE ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRENDAN LOSCAR

ontrakmag.com FALL 2015 | 45Courtesy of Washington State Wine / Andrea Johnson Photography


more red, there’s Brooks Winery. The gorgeous new, modern-styled winery is surrounded by grapes and gardens. Brooks’ specialty is riesling, although visitors can also find beer and iced cof-fee in the tasting room.

All of this can be found within a few miles of the Salem train station. For more, head north into Dundee. Closer to Portland, McMinnville also has a profusion of wineries and tasting rooms dedicated to different AVAs.

Sip in the Evergreen StateThat the majority of grapes in Wash-ington are grown east of the Cascades is of little consequence to Puget Sound residents. After all, from the Sound you can taste pretty much the entire state.

These days, Woodinville—just twenty miles northeast of Seattle—is the stomp-ing grounds for many of the state’s 850-plus wineries. Here, among palatial estates with peacocks roaming the grounds and boutique winer-ies packed into old warehouse district chop shops, it’s pos-sible to taste everything from albarino to Walla Walla syrah.

At Chateau Ste. Michelle, wine lovers taste from the state’s oldest—and likely most well-known—winery. From there, ramble east to the Hollywood Winery District, where tasting rooms for Walla Walla and Lake Chelan win-eries stand side by side. One moment you can sip a dense cabernet sauvignon grown on the hot, windswept Red Mountain, the next you can explore a savage syrah raised on the massive cobbled beds of The Rocks AVA of Mil-ton-Freewater.

In this densely-packed tasting district, it is best to wander door to door, getting to know the state by tasting a dry riesling raised at higher elevation or a merlot full of

blue fruit, yet made with restraint. Of course, Woodinville isn’t the only

place to get a taste of Washington from within the Puget Sound. Twenty-five win-eries have tasting rooms in Seattle proper.

South of downtown, outside a former Dr. Pepper bottling plant, Learjets and turboprops taxi down the Boeing runway against a Mt. Rainier backdrop. Inside the 32,000-square-foot warehouse, char-donnay is cascading into glasses. What is now Charles Smith Wines Jet City opened in August and offers everything from private dinners to concerts. Most importantly, it offers tastings.

Like in Woodinville, there’s an oppor-tunity here to get a taste of the state in just one place. On one menu are eight Charles Smith wines. Seven are available for $6 per tasting. The last one is the Kung Fu Girl. It’s a $20 tasting, but this kung fu could knock over any wine afficionado.

Charles Smith’s staff pour K Vintners

SEATTLE Taste Near the TrainIn the heart of downtown—a few short light rail stops from King Street Station—restaurants with enormous Washington wine lists give diners a chance to sample the state.

Purple Cafe and Wine Bar’s enormous wine list includes bottles, glass pours, and flights from hundreds of Washington wineries. There’s the Washington white tasting trio, for example, focused on white Rhône wines made in Walla Walla and the Columbia valleys, as well as a full page of bottles of Bordeaux-style Washington reds.

Nearby, Michael Mina’s RN74 restaurant devotes seven pages of its list to Washington wines. Organized alphabetically, a description of each of the wineries is included—a treat for any research-loving oenophile.

1

1

1

2

2

2

33

3

4

4

5

1 Brooks Winery2 Bethel Heights Vineyard3 Walter Scott Wines4 Cristom Vineyards5 St. Innocent Winery

1 Hollywood Winery District2 Chateau Ste. Michelle3 Charles Smith Wines Jet City

1 Settlement Building2 Vista D'oro Farm & Winery3 Township 7 Winery4 Backyard Vineyards

OREGON WASHINGTON VANCOUVER, BC


rosé, viognier, syrah and merlot, as well as all three single-vineyard Washing-ton chardonnays (and a cuvée of those three) from the Sixto lineup. This is a chance to get a good sense of place through three single varietals.

Tasty TerritoryCyclists spin past equestrian estates, llama farms, and wineries near the United States-Canada border in the southern end of British Columbia’s Fra-

ser Valley. In the backyard of Vancou-ver, this valley is BC’s second-smallest wine region, with just twenty-two wineries and sixty-three acres under vine. You get a complete taste of the Fraser Valley—where white grapes pre-vail—but you can also get to know the wines of the Okanagan Valley, British Columbia’s primary grape-growing re-gion. Most wineries here source grapes from both areas.

An old man in a baseball hat works a crossword puzzle in the shade of an umbrella outside Domaine de Cha-berton. The valley’s first winery, which opened in 1984, Chaberton is home to fifty-five acres of grapes and a booming bistro. On-site are whites, primarily Bacchus, a silvaner and riesling hybrid crossed with müller-thurgau—and sieg-errebe, which is poured alongside reds and a chardonnay from the Okanagan Valley. Citrus and crispness dominate the palate in whites from this region.

Nearby are a handful of other win-eries. Backyard Vineyards has outdoor space overlooking its vineyards, and Vista D’Oro makes exceptional rus-tic wines, homemade jams and black walnut dessert wine. Township 7 pours excellent wines from its small estate

in Langley, Washington, and its sev-en-acre Naramata Ranch vineyard in the Okanagan. Notable are its three chardonnays made with grapes from the same vineyards, but using different oak treatments. This gives chardonnay enthusiasts a chance to see how wine evolves and changes in winemaking.

Perhaps the best place to get a handle on how BC tastes, however, is in Van-couver proper. In the urban, industrial Settlement Building at the edge of the Downtown Eastside district, thirty-six wines are on tap. The winery shares the space with Belgard Kitchen and Post-mark Brewing, and offers interesting flight options. There’s the housemade 2014 pinot grigio alongside a 2014 Upper Bench riesling (both from Nara-mata), for example. Or, a flight of all reds that includes syrahs from southern Okanagan, which pairs nicely with a burger from Belgard Kitchen.

If you prefer, it’s an easy stroll to the happening Gastown, where diners min-gle with beer and wine lovers alike, and some of the city’s hottest restaurants serve up everything from charcuterie and marrow to Asian fusion dishes along cobbled historic streets.

VANCOUVER, BC Island WineThose not satisfied with the mainland options can take a ferry or a floatplane to Vancouver Island, where thirty-six wineries make good use of cooler climates and exceptionally dry weather to make, largely, pinot noirs and pinot grises.

Adventure travelers can explore five of the ten Gulf Island wineries by boat with Marine EcoTours. Four touring companies—Vine and Hops, BC Grand Tours, South Fraser Shuttles and Tours, and EasyTrips Vancouver—offer private and group wine tours of the Fraser Valley.

Belgard Kitchen, on the edge of downtown Vancouver's east side, offers thirty-six wines on tap.Steve Thorp

PHOTOS BY JOHN WALLER

They’re not quite the daughters of anarchy, but these biker babes know how to rough it. In the waning days of August, female riders from across the Pacific Northwest hopped on their hogs and rumbled from Portland to Mt. Adams for a

women’s-only weekend in the woods.

Dream Roll

Go to ontrakmag.com/gallery for more photos.

The Last ON THE NIGHT OF JULY 26, 1909, 150 men and their supply wagons started down the steep grade of the Deschutes River Canyon under cover of darkness. This was the second attempt by contractor Harry Carleton and his crew of Italian laborers to reach the bottom and set up camp alongside the river in Central Oregon. They had been turned away at the rim of the canyon by armed rivals earlier in the day.

Surely Carleton knew that the noise of the river below could not adequately muffle the approach of so many men, plus twelve horses pulling three rattling wagons over a rocky road. The other party indeed heard them and began to shoot at them almost immediately. Still, the darkness must have helped because Carleton’s men found their way down the canyon without anyone from either party being seriously injured, despite gunfire being exchanged all the way.

RAILROAD

WARBY JANE AHERN

Ole Hedlund


Once at the bottom, the men made their camp and, the next day, they be-gan digging a tunnel for James J. Hill’s Oregon Trunk railway—a mere 100 yards away from the crew of hostile workers digging a tunnel for Edward H. Harriman’s Deschutes River Railroad. This was the first open engagement in the final war between the legendary railroad magnates, or so one version of the story goes.

This account comes from the authors of Handbook of the Deschutes River Canyon, based on conversations with Carleton’s widow and on Carleton’s journal. It was subsequently quoted in the definitive book on the subject, The Deschutes River Railroad War by Leon Speroff.

The Morning Oregonian newspa-per based in Portland, which covered the story almost daily, gave a different, slightly less exciting account. The Orego-nian played up the danger of the night-

time trip down the canyon. The canyon was 2,000 feet deep at this point, the nar-row road two miles long, and the average grade 30 percent. The newspaper, how-ever, neither mentioned Carleton being rebuffed by armed men during daylight hours, nor did it speak of Carleton’s men being met by gunfire in the darkness.

Perhaps the Carletons embellished the story over the years. If so, it seems rather fitting, like one final, benign exploit in a series of subterfuges, pranks and not-so-benign tricks that became the story of the Central Oregon railroad.

It is also an exaggeration to call the competition between Harriman and Hill a war, but their stubborn, wasteful con-struction of two railroads side-by-side along the Deschutes River canyon from the Columbia River to Madras and from there to Bend, if for no reason other than to win a race of their own fabrication, is indicative of an extraordinary level of antagonism between the two men. The

two titans had been dueling for railroad supremacy for years, on many different fronts—on Wall Street, in the courts, and on the land where the tracks were laid. What came to be called the Deschutes River railroad war was business-as-usual for Hill and Harriman.

Far from being alarmed by the hostili-ties, the citizens of Central Oregon were thrilled at the prospect. They likely an-ticipated the entertainment value almost as eagerly as the economic benefits of a new railroad.

The Bend Bulletin on Sept. 4, 1908, in reporting that both Hill and Harriman had crews doing preliminary work in Central Oregon, quoted an anonymous source: “‘The people of Central Oregon are about to see one of the greatest rail-road fights on the banks of the Deschutes that the country has ever witnessed—a fight that will be well worth the price of admission.’ That is a statement coming from a man close to the throne.”

OPPOSITE Workers walk across the nearly completed Crooked River Bridge during summer 1911. ABOVE, FROM LEFT James J. Hill and Edward H. Harriman.

52 | FALL 2015

INSIDE THE “HARRIMAN FENCE”When construction began, Central Or-egon was the largest remaining territory in the continental United States with-out rail service. The region, along with parts of Nevada, California, and Idaho, were bounded by what was known as the “Harriman fence”—Harriman railroad lines in a roughly triangular configura-tion that kept other railroads out. Harri-man had promised repeatedly to build a branch into Central Oregon but had not done so.

For most Central Oregonians, the nearest railhead was the Harriman-con-trolled Columbia Southern that ran from The Dalles to Shaniko. It was better than nothing, but from there goods still had to be moved many miles by wagons through steep, rocky terrain—a slow and hazardous means of transport. Passen-gers had to go by stagecoach.

The state of Oregon was so desper-ate to open up its interior to settlement and national markets that the Republi-can-controlled legislature voted to put on the statewide ballot a constitutional amendment that would allow the state to build its own railroads or condemn existing railroads. By the time of the No-vember 1910 election, however, the two railroads were building feverishly up the Deschutes canyon and the amendment was moot.

There was plenty of financial incentive for a railroad branch in Central Oregon. The region produced agricultural goods such as livestock, wool, and dryland wheat, and promised to produce more once irrigation became widespread. A more important incentive was the poten-tial to ship millions of board feet of lum-ber to be cut in the forests near Bend.

Nevertheless, Harriman didn’t move to build a Central Oregon line until a group of Seattle investors surveyed the Deschutes River canyon in 1905 and in-

corporated as the Oregon Trunk Line. At this point, Hill had no connection with the Oregon Trunk but was an in-direct player.

Hill had resigned as president of Great Northern in 1907, but was restless in retirement. Between 1905 and 1908, he challenged Harriman’s Oregon Railroad and Navigation Company (ORNC) line that ran along the south bank of the Co-lumbia River by building a line of his own, the Spokane, Portland, and Seattle (SP&S) along the north bank of the Co-lumbia River.

At the time, many speculated that Hill’s ulterior motive in building the SP&S was to enable him to establish a branch from the Columbia down through Central Ore-gon and into California. Such a line could give Harriman’s Southern Pacific, which reached San Francisco via Oregon’s Wil-lamette Valley, a run for its money.

The Oregon Trunk investors knew that Hill would be interested in buying

their railroad. The Harriman camp knew it, too. Once they got wind of Oregon Trunk’s activities in the Deschutes River canyon, Harriman’s people responded by quickly forming the Deschutes Railroad Company, which then made its own sur-vey of the canyon.

Harriman’s Deschutes Railroad planned on laying its tracks on the east bank of the river, while the Oregon Trunk would follow the west bank—mostly. For reasons related to the geography of the canyon, there were two places where the Oregon Trunk crossed over to the east bank. In at least one of those stretches of river, there was room for only one set of tracks.

After a lengthy process, the U.S. De-partment of the Interior approved both surveys in July 1909, despite the afore-mentioned conflicts and despite the fact that there was really no need for two railroads in the same canyon. They were going to have to duke it out for the con-tested locations and try to force the oth-er side to give up.

THE LINES WERE DRAWN, THE BATTLE WAS ONWhile the surveys were under review by the federal government, Hill had contin-ued to eye developments from behind the scenes. In June of 1909, he had sent his close friend and ally, John F. Stevens, to check things out. Stevens was an engi-neer, most famous for his previous work on the Panama Canal, but he was also well-known for his association with Hill.

In one of the more amusing episodes of the railroad war, Stevens came to Central Oregon incognito because Hill was still trying (vainly) to conceal his interest in the Oregon Trunk. Calling himself John Sampson, Stevens posed as a wealthy fly-fisherman vacationing along the Deschutes River. For six weeks,

Ole Hedlund


he traveled by automobile and doled out personal checks for options on the ranches and farms he visited.

About two months after his tour of Central Oregon and shortly after con-struction began on both railroads, Ste-vens met the owner of the Oregon Trunk Line at midnight in a Portland park to purchase the railroad with Hill’s back-ing. Almost equally importantly, he also purchased the Central Oregon Railroad, which promised the right to build a bridge over the Crooked River Gorge at the only feasible crossing point.

The race was on in earnest, and both sides had a catalog of dirty tricks for ob-structing their opponents. Several col-orful incidents arose out of the need to pass through private property in order to get men, equipment and supplies down into the canyon.

Both railroads had sent “right-of-way men” to the area early on to establish their rights to access the canyon, but the Harriman camp had made an astonish-ingly amateur mistake. The contractors, Twohy Brothers, built a $10,000 supply road across the Gurtz ranch to the can-yon rim and down to the river based solely on verbal permission to pass through the ranch.

The Oregon Trunk contractors, the Porter Brothers, came along after the road had been built and bought options on the Gurtz ranch and two others, thus procuring the right for their subcon-tractor, Harry Carleton, to put up a gate and prevent Twohy Brothers from using their own road.

This was a major coup because it oc-curred at Horseshoe Bend, one of the sites where the Oregon Trunk crossed over to the east bank of the river. There was enough room for two sets of tracks, but the one who got there first could choose the easiest path. Plus, the two companies would have to jockey for space to camp and work.

Twohy Brothers’ freight wagons were turned back at the gate several days in a row, until they got a court order to allow them passage, setting up another encoun-ter on August 1, 1909, when the Sherman County sheriff, a deputy and a judge ac-

companied Harriman’s freight wagons to the gate to serve the injunction. Carleton had seventy-five of his men there, armed with ax handles and firearms.

Carleton did not prevent them from cutting open the gate, but when the first wagon started through, he ordered his men to stop them. The Morning Or-egonian reported that the sheriff and deputy were “pushed aside like flies” by Carleton’s men. Carleton’s crew did not resort to weapons, but rather unhitched the mules, tied them to the wagon and backed the wagon out the gate.

The next day Twohy Brothers brought 200 men to the gate and Carleton’s out-numbered men let them pass, albeit with rifles trained on them as they went by. Carleton and two of his men were arrest-ed and lodged in the jail in Grass Valley

until their employer bailed them out.Despite the conflict over the supply

road, the work continued on the river-side. The two crews were digging tunnels within 100 yards of each other, blasting through the rock with black powder, showering each other with falling debris.

It is important to note that both camps were building at many locations along the canyon at the same time. While Hill’s contractor Carleton skirmished with Harriman’s people at Horseshoe Bend, Harriman’s chief engineer, George W. Boschke, worked downstream at North Junction, another site where the Oregon Trunk crossed over to the east bank.

Boschke had helped design the seawall installed in Galveston after that city had been devastated by a hurricane in 1900. One day while stationed at North Junc-

Photos by Ole Hedlund

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Erecting the OT Ferry Canyon trestle over the Deschutes River near Madras sometime during winter 1910-1911. People gather around the Welcome Arch, celebrating Railroad Day in Madras on February 15, 1911. Workmen and dignitaries (including John Stevens, center) pose in front of the first locomotive to ride the rails.


tion, Boschke received a telegram saying the seawall had failed and that he was needed immediately in Galveston, Tex-as. The hoax was admirably creative, but Boschke didn’t bite.

In the stretch between North Junction and South Junction, there was only room for one set of tracks, but both railroads tried for a time to build side-by-side. Across from the mouth of the Warm Springs River, Porter’s men were grad-ing for the Oregon Trunk four feet up the hillside from Twohy Brothers’ crew. Porter’s gang would shovel debris onto the Twohy gang, who would then have to shovel it farther down the slope. Then

Porter’s men began to loosen boulders and let them roll onto the other crew’s grade. The Twohy workers retaliated by moving farther up the hill and rolling boulders onto Porter’s workers.

Though unverifiable, there were more equally entertaining stories. Each camp kept herds of cattle that they would butcher to feed the workers. Sometimes a few members of a work crew would sneak across the river and stampede the other crew’s cattle.

If one gang of workers left its camp un-tended, the other gang would set the near-by grass on fire. Workers would spy on the enemy to see where they stored their black

powder so that they could later pilfer or destroy it, thus delaying their progress.

INUNDATION BRINGS TRANSFOR-MATIONThousands of laborers poured into Central Oregon to work on the rail-roads, and they could not help but make an impact on the towns. Situated on

Hill and Harriman crews span both sides of North Junction on the Deschutes River in 1910.


the Columbia Southern line, tiny Grass Valley was the jumping-off point for workers and equipment sent from The Dalles and bound for Horseshoe Bend. Tension and excitement abounded in that town during the conflict over the supply road. There was always potential for bloodshed as foreign laborers came and went, and Grass Valley’s own sheriff and judge were pushed around in the melee at the gate.

When the crews were working near Madras, they were so rowdy that res-idents voted to incorporate as a city so that they could hire law enforcement to instill order. The first city officials were

elected in January 1910.If Bend experienced a crime wave

during the construction, the Bend Bul-letin did not report it, but the city was ecstatic at the prospect of rail service. The July 28, 1909 Bulletin had a line of smaller text above its banner that read: “Think of it! Two railroads starting for us at the same time after all these years of waiting for even one.”

In the end, Bend got its two railroads, but it only got one set of tracks. On Sep-tember 9, 1909, while the railroad war was in full swing, Harriman succumbed to a long illness and died. He was suc-ceeded as president of Union Pacific by Judge Robert S. Lovett, who was no pushover but who lacked Harriman’s personal motivation to carry on the war.

On May 17, 1910, the railroads signed an agreement to share track in the ten-mile stretch between North Junction and South Junction where there was only room for one set of rails. The Or-egon Trunk was to lay the track from Metolius to Bend, and the Deschutes Railroad would pay to use it. With that agreement, the war was over.

The Oregon Trunk won the race to Madras, which marked the end of the most difficult construction. On Febru-ary 15, 1911, an engine with two coaches chugged out of Willow Creek canyon and passed through a triumphal arch set over the tracks and painted with the slogan “Madras, the Gateway to Central Oregon.” John F. Stevens and other railroad digni-taries aboard the train joined the approx-imately 3,000 celebrants in a procession into town for a barbecue lunch, followed by speeches in the afternoon.

One month later, the Deschutes Rail-road reached Madras, bringing with it the Barnes Circus, including elephants, camels and lions. The turnout was even larger than the celebration for the Ore-gon Trunk.

The route from Madras to Bend was relatively flat and smooth, and the rail-road workers could lay as much as two miles of track per day. The last major obstacle was building the spectacular bridge over the Crooked River Gorge

near present-day Terrebonne.The first train arrived in Redmond on

September 21, 1911 and in Bend on Sep-tember 30. The city of Bend staged two full days of celebrations October 5 and 6, the highlight of which was James J. Hill driving the golden spike. (This spike was given to an SP&S official to display in Portland, but it vanished and was never seen again.)

After millions of dollars and years of effort were spent building two rail-road tracks from the Columbia River to Madras, they were consolidated in a disappointingly short period of time. The portion of the Oregon Trunk be-tween Trout Creek and Madras was abandoned in 1923, and the northern portion of the Deschutes Railroad was abandoned in 1935. The remaining line is now operated by Burlington North-ern Santa Fe.

The story of the Deschutes River Rail-road has been fondly told and retold over the past century. For a few exhilarating years, Central Oregonians basked in the attention of legendary figures James J. Hill and E. H. Harriman. Both men visit-ed the small towns of Central Oregon in the first decade of the twentieth century and gambled millions of dollars on the region’s potential.

Yet, biographer Maury Klein wrote 447 pages about the life of Edward H. Harriman and did not once mention the Deschutes River railroad war.

Hill biographer Albro Martin begins his single paragraph on the subject with “There is a breed of historian for whom the saga of the West cannot possibly be too hairy-chested, and to them the story of this last confrontation between Hill and Harriman before Harriman’s pre-mature death quickly became the ‘De-schutes Canyon War.’”

Perhaps it is true that the race to build a railroad up the Deschutes canyon was insignificant in the lives of great men such as Hill and Harriman, but to Cen-tral Oregon, few events in its history have been more important.

Ole Hedlund

See more photos of the Railroad War at ontrakmag.com/railroadwar.


Eat + Stay + Play

Rivershore Bar & Grill1900 Clackamette Drive0.9 miles from station503.655.5155rivershorerestaurant.com

R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar528 NE Third Street, McMinnville38.7 miles from station866.472.8614rstuartandco.com

Caffe Mingo807 NW 21st Avenue1.1 miles from station503.226.4646caffemingonw.com

Chennai Masala2088 NW Stucki Avenue, Hillsboro12 miles from station503.531.9500chennaimasala.net

Decarli4545 SW Watson Avenue, Beaverton8.6 miles from station503.641.3223decarlirestaurant.com

Elephant’s DelicatessenMultiple locationselephantsdeli.com

The Garden BarMultiple locationsgardenbarpdx.com

Gloria’s Secret Cafe12500 SW Broadway Street, Beaverton8.1 miles from station503.268.2124

Imperial Restaurant410 SW Broadway0.6 mile from station

503.228.7222imperialpdx.com

Laurelhurst Market3155 E. Burnside Street2.6 miles from station503.206.3097laurelhurstmarket.com

Le Bouchon517 NW 14th Avenue0.5 mile from station503.248.2193bouchon-portland.com

Oven & Shaker1134 NW Everett Street0.5 mile from station503.241.1600ovenandshaker.com

The Parish231 NW 11th Avenue0.5 mile from station503.227.2421theparishpdx.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House850 SW Broadway0.8 mile from station503.221.4518ruthschris.com

Serratto Restaurant & Bar2112 NW Kearney Street1 mile from station503.221.1195serratto.com

Syun Izakaya209 NE Lincoln Street, Hillsboro16.8 miles from station503.640.3131syun-izakaya.com

Wilf’s800 NW 6th Avenue226 feet from station503.223.0070wilfsrestaurant.com

Gamberetti’s325 SE High Street0.7 mile from station503.399.7446gamberettis.com

Wild Pear372 State Street1.5 miles from station503.378.7515wildpearcatering.com

Willamette Valley Vineyards8800 Enchanted Way SE,Turner9.2 miles from station503.588.9463wvv.com

Adelsheim Vineyard16800 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg29 miles from station503.538.3652adelsheim.com

ArborBrook Vineyards17770 NE Calkins Lane, Newberg29.4 miles from station503.538.0959arborbrookwines.com

Cana’s Feast Winery750 W. Lincoln Street, Carlton37.3 miles from station503.852.0002canasfeastwinery.com

Oregon Electric Station27 E. 5th Avenue374 feet from station541.485.4444oesrestaurant.com

Sabai Cafe & Bar27 Oakway Center1.5 miles from station541.654.5424sabaicafe.com

Sushi Pure296 E. 5th Avenue0.3 mile from station541.654.0608sushipureeugene.com

Ta Ra Rin Thai Cuisine1200 Oak Street0.7 mile from station541.343.1230tararinthai.com

Frankie’s Restaurant641 NW Hickory Street1.4 miles from station541.248.3671frankiesoregon.tumblr.com

Sybaris Bistro442 1st Avenue0.8 mile from station541.248.3666sybarisbistro.com

Christo’s Pizzeria & Lounge1108 NE Broadway Street1.6 miles from station503.371.2892christospizzasalem.com

Oregon Guide

PORTLAND

OREGON CITY

SALEM

ALBANY

EUGENEAx Billy Grill & Sports Bar - Downtown Athletic Club999 Willamette Street0.4 mile from station541.484.4011downtownac.net

Belly Taquería454 Willamette Street69 feet from station541.687.8226eatbelly.com

Cafe Lucky Noodle207 E. 5th Avenue0.2 mile from station541.484.4777

La Perla Pizzeria1313 Pearl Street0.8 mile from station541.686.1313laperlapizzeria.com

Marché296 E. 5th Avenue #2260.3 mile from station541.342.3612marcherestaurant.com

McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café1243 High Street0.8 mile from station541.345.4905mcmenamins.com

Off the WaffleTwo Eugene Locationsoffthewaffle.com

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Turner

Sybaris Bistro, Albany

Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081


Grand Hotel at Bridgeport7265 SW Hazel Fern Road,Tigard11.7 miles from station503.968.5757grandhotelbridgeport.com

Ace Hotel1022 SW Stark Street0.7 miles from station503.228.2277acehotel.com

The Benson309 SW Broadway0.5 miles from station503.228.2000coasthotels.com

Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel5009 NE 11th Avenue3.1 miles from station503.288.5225tinyhousehotel.com

Embassy Suites Portland-Washington Square9600 SW Washington Square Road, Tigard11.3 miles from station503.644.4400portlandembassysuites.com

Friendly Bike Guest House4039 N. Williams Avenue2.1 miles from station503.799.2615friendlybikeguesthouse.com

Eat + Stay + Play Guide

Inn at the 5th205 E. 6th Avenue0.3 miles from station541.743.0869innat5th.com

Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn988 Lawrence Street0.7 miles from station541.683.3160ovaldoor.com

The Secret Garden1910 University Street1.9 miles from station541.484.6755secretgardenbbinn.com

Valley River Inn1000 Valley River Way2 miles from station541.743.1000valleyriverinn.com

Best Western Plus Prairie Inn1100 SE Price Road2.9 miles from station541.928.5050book.bestwestern.com

Comfort Suites100 NE Opal Court2.9 miles from station541.928.2053comfortsuites.com

Phoenix Inn Suites3410 SE Spicer Drive2.1 miles from station541.926.5696phoenixinn.com

The Grand Hotel201 SE Liberty Street0.8 miles from station503.540.7800grandhotelsalem.com

Hampton Inn & Suites510 SE Hawthorne Avenue503.362.1300hamptoninn3.hilton.com

Red Lion3301 Market Street NE2.6 miles from station503.370.7888redlion.com

Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel1900 Clackamette Drive0.9 miles from station503.655.1927book.bestwestern.com

Lakeshore Inn210 N. State Street, Lake Oswego6.2 miles from station503.636.9679thelakeshoreinn.com

PORTLAND

OREGON CITY

SALEM

C’est La Vie Inn1006 Taylor Street1.5 miles from station541.302.6963cestlavieinn.com

Campbell House Inn252 Pearl Street0.4 miles from station541.343.2258campbellhouse.com

Excelsior Inn754 E. 13th Avenue1.1 miles from station541.342.1991excelsiorinn.com

Farmhouse & Loft at Sweet Cheeks Winery27007 Briggs Hill Road14.3 miles from station541.607.6963sweetcheekswinery.com

Hilton66 E. 6th Avenue0.2 miles from station541.342.2000hilton.com

Holiday Inn Express & Suites2117 Franklin Boulevard1.9 miles from station541.342.1243ihg.com

Hotel Eastlund1021 NE Grand Avenue1.5 miles from station503.235.2100hoteleastlund.com

Hotel Modera515 SE Clay Street1.1 miles from station877.484.1084hotelmodera.com

Inn @ Northrup Station2025 NW Northrup Street0.9 mile from station503.224.0543northrupstation.com

Jupiter Hotel800 E. Burnside1.4 miles from station503.230.9200jupiterhotel.com

McMenamins Edgefield2126 SW Halsey Street,Troutdale13.6 miles from station503.669.8610mcmenamins.com

McMenamins Grand Lodge3505 Pacific Avenue,Forest Grove25.4 miles from station503.992.9533mcmenamins.com

The Nines525 SW Morrison Street0.7 mile from station877.229.9995thenines.com

Shift Vacation Rentals1421 NE Alberta Street3.3 miles from station503.208.2581shiftvacationrentals.com

The Westin750 SW Alder Street0.7 mile from station503.294.9000westinportland.com

ALBANY

EUGENE

Hotel Modera, Portland


503.954.2271shop.bonnetboutique.com

Garnish Apparel404 NW 12th Avenue0.5 mile from station503.954.2292garnishapparel.com

Lan Su Chinese Garden239 NW Everett Street0.5 mile from station 503.228.8131lansugarden.org

McMenamins Crystal Ballroom1332 W. Burnside Street0.8 mile from station503.225.0047mcmenamins.com

Mercantile729 SW Alder Street0.7 mile from station503.223.6649mercantileportland.com

Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort14040 Highway 35,Mt. Hood75 miles from station503.337.2222skihood.com

Oregon Museum of Science and Industry1945 SE Water Avenue1.9 miles from station800.955.6674

503.434.4180evergreenmuseum.org

Salem Center401 Center Street NE1.1 miles from station503.399.9676salemcenter.com

Bridgeport Village7455 SW Bridgeport Road, Tigard11.6 miles from station503.968.1704bridgeport-village.com

End of the Oregon Trail1726 Washington Street1.2 miles from station503.657.9336historicoregoncity.org

Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall1037 SW Broadway0.9 mile from station503.248.4335portland5.com

Bella Casa223 NW 9th Avenue0.5 mile from station503.222.5337bellacasa.net

Bonnet1129 NW Flanders Street0.5 mile from station

PORTLAND

OREGON CITY

SALEM

Bijou Metro43 W. Broadway0.4 mile from station541.686.2458bijou-cinemas.com

Cascade Raptor Center32275 Fox Hollow Road5.7 miles from station541.485.1320eraptors.org

Eugene Cascades & Coast Travel Lane County754 Olive Street0.3 mile from station541.484.5307eugenecascadescoast.org

Fifth Street Public Market296 E. 5th Avenue0.3 mile from station541.484.03805stmarket.com

Heritage Dry Goods861 Willamette Street0.3 mile from station541.393.6710heritagedrygoods.com

Hult Center1 Eugene Center0.2 mile from station541.682.5087hultcenter.org

Mount Pisgah Arboretum34901 Frank Parrish Road7.6 miles from station

omsi.edu

Oregon Zoo4001 SW Canyon Road3.4 miles from station503.226.1561oregonzoo.org

Portland Art Museum1219 SW Park Avenue1 mile from station503.553.5400portlandartmuseum.org

Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion132 NW 12th Avenue0.7 mile from station971.319.6934rachellem.com

Rice Museum of Rocks & Minerals26385 NW Groveland Drive, Hillsboro17.1 miles from station503.647.2418ricenorthwestmuseum.org

Twist30 NW 23rd Place1.4 miles from station503.224.0334twistonline.com

Washington Square9585 SW Washington Square Road, Tigard8.6 miles from station503.639.8860shopwashingtonsquare.com

ALBANY

EUGENE 541.747.3817mountpisgaharboretum.com

Museum of Natural & Cultural History1680 E. 15th Avenue1.7 miles from station541.346.3024 natural-history.uoregon.edu

Oakway Center2350 Oakmont Way 1.3 miles from station541.485.4711oakwaycenter.com

Albany Antique Mall145 SW 2nd Avenue0.5 mile from station541.704.0109albanyantiquemall.com

Oregon Coast Aquarium2820 SE Ferry Slip Road, Newport65 miles from station541.867.3474aquarium.org

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Waterpark500 Northeast Captain Michael King Smith Way, McMinnville27 miles from station


Bella Casa, Portland

Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport

Guide Eat + Stay + Play

Walla Walla Valley AVA

Eola-Amity Hills AVA

Free Writing Prospectus to Prospectus dated August 11, 2015 Filed Pursuant to Rule 433 Registration Statement No. 333-205174

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Inc., has filed a registration statement (including a prospectus) with the SEC for the offering to which this communication relates. Before you invest, you should read the prospectus in that

registration statement and other documents we have filed with the SEC for more complete information about our company and this offering. You may get these documents for free by visiting EDGAR on the SEC Web site at www.sec.gov. Alternatively, you may obtain a copy of these documents at http://www.wvv.com/prospectus, or we will arrange to send you the prospectus (including the documents incorporated therein by reference) if you so

request by writing us at [email protected] or by calling us toll-free 1-800-344-9463.

Preferred Stock at an offering price of $4.25 per share earning a 5.2% annual dividend.

The maximum purchase per subscription is 1,205 shares ($5,121.25), the minimum 300 shares ($1,275). Share price will increase to

$4.35 after December 31, 2015 (5.1% div.).

To obtain more information regarding the winery and an investment, please call 503-588-9463

or visit www.wvv.com/ownership.

Jim Bernau, Founder/CEO Willamette Valley Vineyards

8800 Enchanted Way SE • Turner, OR 97392 503-588-9463 • [email protected]

Please join us as Founders of two new Wineries!

Be a Part of Oregon’s Wine Future! (At this time, this offering has been registered for sale to Oregon and Washington residents only.)

CRATER LAKE ZIPLINE NOW OPEN!

COME FOR THE ADVENTURE,STAY FOR THE VIEW.

Whether you’re soaring above the tree tops at the brand new Crater Lake Zipline or taking part in some of Oregon’s finest fly fishing adventures, you’ll soon discover the transformative spirit that makes Running Y Ranch Resort a year-round destination experience.

WWW.RUNNINGY.COM - (541) 850-5500














Eat + Stay + Play

Mezcaleria OaxacaLocations in Queen Anne and Capitol Hillmezcaleriaoaxaca.com

Revel403 N. 36th Street5.9 miles from station206.547.2040revelseattle.com

Salumi Artisan Cured Meats309 3rd Avenue S.0.2 mile from station206.621.8772salumicuredmeats.com

Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar205 108th Avenue NE #100, Bellevue10.7 miles from station425.456.0010seastarrestaurant.com

TanakaSan2121 6th Avenue1.8 miles from station206.812.8412tanakasanseattle.com

Westward2501 N. Northlake Way5.8 miles from station206.552.8215westwardseattle.com

The Herbfarm14590 NE 145th Street, Woodinville19.7 miles from station425.485.5300theherbfarm.com

The Maltby Cafe8809 Maltby Road, Snohomish14.5 miles from station425.483.3123maltbycafe.com

Russell’s3305 Monte Villa Parkway, Bothell16.9 miles from station425.486.4072russelllowell.com

Anthony’s Restaurant1726 W. Marine View Drive2.4 miles from station425.252.3333anthonys.com

Stanwood Grill8628 NW 271st Street289 feet from station360.629.5253stanwoodgrill.com

Olde Towne Grainery Tea Room & Galleria100 E. Montgomery Street0.2 mile from station360.419.9090facebook.com/oldetownegrainery

Skagit River Brewery404 S. 3rd Street0.2 mile from station360.336.2884

Ambo Ethiopian Cuisine1530 Cornwall Avenue3.4 miles from stationamboethiopiancuisine.wordpress.com

Ciao Thyme207 Unity Street3.3 miles from station360.733.1267ciaothyme.com

16820 Southcenter Pkwy.1.4 miles from station206.575.6815miyabisushi.com

Assaggio Ristorante2010 4th Avenue1.3 miles from station206.441.1399assaggioseattle.com

Copperworks Distilling1250 Alaskan Way0.8 mile from station206.504.7604copperworksdistilling.com

Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails1415 5th Avenue1.1 miles from station206.971.8015frolik.motifseattle.com

John Howie Steak11111 NE 8th Street Suite #125, Bellevue10 miles from station425.440.0880johnhowiesteak.com

Little Water Cantina2865 Eastlake Avenue E. 4 miles from station206.397.4940delaurenti.com

Fish Tale Brew Pub515 Jefferson Street SE7.8 miles from station360.943.6480fishbrewing.com

The Mark407 Columbia Street SW8.1 miles from station360.754.4414themarkolympia.com

Asado2810 6th Avenue4.8 miles from station253.272.7770asadotacoma.com

Odd Otter Brewery716 Pacific Avenue2.7 miles from station253.209.7064oddotterbrewing.com

Pacific Grill1502 Pacific Avenue1.4 miles from station253.627.3535pacificgrilltacoma.com

Miyabi Sushi

Washington Guide

VANCOUVER

TACOMA

SEATTLE

EDMONDS

EVERETT

STANWOOD

MOUNT VERNON

Farrar’s Bistro12514 NW 36th Avenue6.7 miles from station360.571.7005farrarsbistro.com

McMenamins East Vancouver1900 NE 162nd Avenue9.8 miles from station360.254.3950mcmenamins.com

Ashtown Brewing Company1175 Hudson Street2 miles from station360.353.5286ashtownbrewing.com

The Office 842842 Washington Way1.1 miles from station360.442.4647theoffice842.com

McMenamins Olympic Club Pub112 N. Tower Avenue0.1 mile from station360.736.5164mcmenamins.com

TUKWILA

Little Water Cantina, Seattle

BELLINGHAM

KELSO/LONGVIEW

CENTRALIA

OLYMPIA/LACEY

ontrakmag.com FALL 2015 | 61Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081


Coast Gateway18415 International Boulevard12.1 miles from station206.248.8200coasthotels.com

Coast Bellevue18415 International Boulevard12.1 miles from station206.248.8200coasthotels.com

Greenlake Guesthouse7630 E. Green Lake Drive 7.1 miles from station206.729.8700greenlakeguesthouse.com

Hotel 10001000 First Avenue0.7 mile from station206.957.1000hotel1000seattle.com

Hyatt Regency Bellevue900 Bellevue Way NE9.9 miles from station425.462.1234bellevue.hyatt.com

The Inn at El Gaucho2505 1st Avenue1.6 miles from station206.728.1133elgaucho.com

Inn at the Market86 Pine Street1.2 miles from station206.448.0631innatthemarket.com

coasthotels.com

Red Lion Hotel2300 Evergreen Park Drive SW8 miles from station360.943.4000redlion.com

Little Creek Casino Resort91 West State Route 10820.6 miles from station360.427.7711little-creek.com

Hotel Murano1320 Broadway Plaza1.5 miles from station253.238.8000hotelmuranotacoma.com

Cedarbrook Lodge18525 S. 36th Avenue4.3 miles from station206.901.9268cedarbrooklodge.com

Springhill Suites200 SW 19th Street1.8 miles from station425.226.4100marriott.com

Alexis Hotel1007 First Avenue0.8 mile from station206.624.4844alexishotel.com

Heathman Lodge7801 NE Greenwood Drive6.6 miles from station360.254.3100heathmanlodge.com

Red Lion at the Quay100 Columbia Street1.1 miles from station360.694.8341redlion.com

Monticello Hotel1405 17th Avenue2.1 miles from station360.425.9900themonticello.net

Centralia Square Hotel202 W. Centralia College Boulevard0.3 mile from station360.807.1212centraliasquare.com

McMenamins - Olympic Club Hotel & Theater112 N. Tower Avenue0.1 mile from station360.736.5164mcmenamins.com

The Governor Hotel621 S. Capitol Way7.9 miles from station360.943.9349

The Maxwell Hotel300 Roy Street2.5 miles from station206.286.0629themaxwellhotel.com

The Moore Hotel1929 2nd Avenue1.3 miles from station206.448.4851moorehotel.com

Seattle Sheraton1400 6th Avenue1.2 miles from station206.621.9000sheratonseattle.com

Sorrento Hotel900 Madison Street1.1 miles from station206.622.6400hotelsorrento.com

Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn130 W. Dayton Street0.2 mile from station425.771.5021book.bestwestern.com

Inn at Port Gardner1700 W. Marine View Drive2.4 miles from station425.252.6779innatportgardner.com

Cedar Bluff Cottage18520 Swanson Lane5.2 miles from station360.445.3333cedarbluffcottage.com

Hotel Stanwood26926 NW 102nd Avenue1.4 miles from station360.629.2888stanwoodhotelsaloon.com

Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn2300 Market Street1.9 miles from station360.428.5678book.bestwestern.com

Tulip Inn2200 Freeway Drive1.8 miles from station360.428.5969tulipinn.net

Chrysalis Inn & Spa804 10th Street0.8 mile from station360.756.1005thechrysalisinn.com

Hotel Bellwether1 Bellwether Way4 miles from station360.392.3100 hotelbellwether.com

VANCOUVER

KELSO/LONGVIEW

CENTRALIA

OLYMPIA/LACEY

TACOMA

SEATTLE

EDMONDS

EVERETT

STANWOOD

MOUNT VERNON

BELLINGHAM

TUKWILAInn at the Market, Seattle

Chrysalis Inn & Spa, Bellingham


1.3 miles from station206.356.5803seattle-cycling-tours.com

Seattle Space Needle400 Broad Street2 miles from station206.905.2100spaceneedle.com

Woodland Park Zoo750 N. 50th Street5.3 miles from station206.548.2500zoo.org

Cascadia Art Museum190 Sunset Avenue #E0.3 mile from station425.336.4809cascadiaartmuseum.org

Edmonds Center for the Arts410 N. 4th Avenue0.6 mile from station425.275.9595edmondscenterforthearts.com

Visit Edmonds121 5th Avenue N.0.5 mile from station1.877.775.6935visitedmonds.com

Future of Flight Aviation

Center & Boeing Tour8415 Paine Field Boulevard8 miles from station425.467.4777futureofflight.org

Stanwood Cinemas6996 NW 265th Street1.5 miles from station360.629.0514farawayentertainment.com

Downtown Mount Vernon360.336.3801mountvernondowntown.org

San Juan Islands42.7 miles from station888.468.3701visitsanjuans.com

Bellingham Railway Museum1320 Commercial Street3.1 miles from station360.393.7540bellinghamrailwaymuseum.org

Whatcom Falls Park1401 Electric Avenue4.6 miles from station360.778.7001cob.org

206.623.1445argosycruises.com

Bellevue Arts Museum510 Bellevue Way NE, Bellevue10.7 miles from station425.519.0770bellevuearts.org

Chihuly Garden & Glass305 Harrison Street2.5 miles from station206.753.4940chihulygardenandglass.com

Museum of History and Industry860 Terry Avenue N.2.7 miles from station206.324.1126mohai.org

Northwest Outdoor Center2100 Westlake Avenue N.3.7 miles from station206.281.9694nwoc.com

Pike Place MarketPike Street206.682.7453pikeplacemarket.org

Seattle Aquarium1483 Alaskan Way1 mile from station206.386.4300seattleaquarium.org

Seattle Art Museum1300 1st Avenue0.8 mile from station206.654.3100seattleartmuseum.org

Seattle Cycle Tours714 Pike Street

Little Creek Casino Resort91 West State Route 108,Shelton20.6 miles from station360.427.7711little-creek.com

Tacoma Art Museum1701 Pacific Avenue1.2 miles from station253.272.4258tacomaartmuseum.org

Museum of Glass1801 Dock Street0.9 mile from station253.284.4750museumofglass.org

Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium5400 N. Pearl Street7.4 miles from station253.591.5337pdza.org

LeMay—America’s Car Museum2702 E. D Street0.7 mile from station253.779.8490americascarmuseum.org

Foster Golf Links13500 S. Interurban Avenue1.8 miles from station206.242.4221fostergolflinks.com

Argosy Cruises1101 Alaskan Way0.8 mile from station

Kiggins Theatre1011 Main Street0.8 mile from station360.816.0352kigginstheatre.net

Visit Tri-Cities7130 W. Grandridge Boulevard, Kennewick219 miles from station509.735.8486visittri-cities.com

Kelso Theater Pub214 S. Pacific Avenue0.1 mile from station360.414.9451ktpub.com

Cowlitz County Tourism - Visit Mount St. Helens360.577.3137visitmtsthelens.com

Centralia Factory Outlets1342 Lum Road2.8 miles from station360.736.3327centraliafactoryoutlet.com

Capitol Tours215 Sid Snyder Avenue7.5 miles from station360.902.8880des.wa.gov

Rhythm & Rye311 Capitol Way N.7.8 miles from station360.705.0760

VANCOUVER

KELSO/LONGVIEW

CENTRALIA

OLYMPIA/LACEY

TACOMA

SEATTLE

EDMONDS

EVERETT

STANWOOD

MOUNT VERNON

BELLINGHAM

TUKWILA


Salish Cliffs Golf Club at Little Creek Casino Resort, Shelton


Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium, Tacoma

Must be 21 or over to play. Management reserves all rights. ©2015 Silver Reef Casino

SilverReefCasino.comI-5, Exit 260 | Ferndale, WA | 866.383.0777

RIDE THE REEF

IN JACKPOT WINS LAST MONTH!

SILVER REEF IS THE ONLY PLACE IN WHATCOM COUNTY WITH THE

MOST WINNERS AND THE NEWEST SLOT GAMES!

$$$$$$2,569,9492,569,9492,569,949

EASY TO FIND, HARD TO LEAVE

Seaside Outlets-On THE nOrTH OrEgOn COAST-

JANUARY-MARCH SUNdAY-THURSdAY:

10 A.M.-6 P.M. FRidAY-SATURdAY:

10 A.M.-8 P.M.

book warehouse • bruce’s candy kitchen • carter’s • christoPher & banks • claire’s • daisy may’s sandwich shoP • dress barn & dress barn women • eddie bauer • famous footwear outlet • gnc • kitchen collection • l’eggs hanes bali Playtex exPress • nike factory store • osh kosh b’gosh • Pendleton • rack room shoes • rue 21 • seaside shiPPing

center • the wine & beer haus • tokyo teriyaki • TOYS “R” US • Van heusen • ZumieZ

www.seasideoutlets.comHwy 101 & 12th Ave., Seaside, Oregon • 503.717.1603

aPril-decemberMONdAY-SATURdAY: 10 A.M.-8 P.M. SUNdAY: 10 A.M.-6 P.M.

Free coupon book special events


Eat + Stay + Play

604.926.4021savaryislandpiecompany.comTojo’s Restaurant1133 W. Broadway3.2 km from station604.872.8050tojos.comVij’s1480 W. 11th Avenue4 km from station604.736.6664vijsrestaurant.caWildebeest120 W. Hastings Street1.5 km from station604.687.6880wildebeest.caYaletown Brewing Co.1111 Mainland Street2.1 km from station604.681.2739mjg.caYEW Seafood & Bar791 W. Georgia Street2.2 km from station604.692.4YEWyewseafood.com

Zeitoon Restaurant1795 Pendrell Street4.8 km from station604.899.0700zeitoonrestaurant.ca

L’Abattoir217 Carrall Street1.4 km from station604.568.1701labattoir.caThe Liberty Distillery1494 Old Bridge Street3 km from station604.558.1998thelibertydistillery.comLongtable Distillery1451 Hornby Street3 km from station604.266.0177longtabledistillery.comForty Ninth Parallel Café &Lucky’s Doughnuts2902 Main Street1.8 km from station604.872.490149thparallelroasters.comluckysdoughnuts.comMarutama Ramen780 Bidwell Street3.6 km from station604.688.8837marutamaramen.comMatchstick Coffee Roasters213 E. Georgia Street650 meters from station604.336.0213matchstickcoffee.comNoodlebox1867 W. 4th Avenue4.2 km from station604.734.1310noodlebox.net

Dockside Restaurant& Brewing Company1253 Johnston Street4.4 km from station604.685.7070docksidevancouver.comThe Diamond6 Powell Street1.5 km from station604.568.8272di6mond.comFable Kitchen1944 W. 4th Avenue4.4 km from station604.732.1322fablekitchen.caThe Flying Pig Gastown102 Water Street1.7 km from station604.559.7968theflyingpigvan.comJules216 Abbott Street1.7 km from station604.669.0033julesbistro.ca

The Keefer Bar135 Keefer Street850 meters from station604.688.1961thekeeferbar.comKishimoto Japanese Kitchen & Sushi Bar2054 Commercial Drive2.6 km from station604.255.5550

Vancouver Guide

Bishop’s2183 W. 4th Avenue4.8 km from station604.738.2025bishopsonline.com Blue Water Cafe1095 Hamilton Street2.2 km from station604.688.8078bluewatercafe.netThe Boathouse1795 Beach Avenue4.4 km from station604.699.2225boathouserestaurants.caCamagnolo1020 Main Street290 meters from station604.484.6018campagnolorestaurant.caCentral Bistro1072 Denman Street4.7 km from station604.689.4527centralbistro.comChambar568 Beatty Street1.6 km from station604.879.7118chambar.com

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca1133 & 1129 Hamilton Street2.3 km from station604.688.7466cioppinosyaletown.com

Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar2118 Burrard Street4 km from station604.736.2220novopizzeria.comThe Oakwood Canadian Bistro2741 W. 4th Avenue5.6 km from station604.558.1965theoakwood.caOpus Bar322 Davie Street2.2 km from station604.642.6787opushotel.comRaw Canvas1046 Hamilton Street2.1 km from station604.687.1729rawcanvas.comThe Refinery1115 Granville Street2.5 km from station604.687.7479therefineryvancouver.comSalt Tasting Room45 Blood Alley1.5 km from station604.633.1912salttastingroom.com

Savary Island Pie Company1533 Marine Drive10.6 km from station

Oakwood Canadian Bistro, Vancouver

Yaletown Brewing Co.

ontrakmag.com FALL 2015 | 65Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081


Granville House B&B5050 Granville Street6.3 km from station604.733.2963granvillebb.com

Hotel Blue Horizon1225 Robson Street2.9 km from station604.688.1411bluehorizonhotel.com

The Kingston Hotel757 Richards Street2.1 km from station604.684.9024kingstonhotelvancouver.com

L’Hermitage Hotel788 Richards Street2 km from station778.327.4100lhermitagevancouver.com

The Landis Hotel & Suites1200 Hornby Street3 km from station604.681.3555landissuitesvancouver.com

The Listel Hotel1300 Robson Street3.1 km from station604.684.7092thelistelhotel.com

Auberge Vancouver Hotel837 W. Hastings Street2.6 km from station604.678.8899aubergevancouver.com

Barclay House1351 Barclay Street3.5 km from station604.605.1351barclayhouse.com

Bee & Thistle Guest House1842 Parker Street3.3 km from station604.669.0715beeandthistle.ca

The Burrard1100 Burrard Street2.9 km from station604.681.2331theburrard.com

Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 1763 Comox Street4.2 km from station604.688.7711coasthotels.com

Coast Coal Harbour Hotel1180 W. Hastings Street2.7 km from station604.697.0202coasthotels.com

St. Clair Hotel - Hostel577 Richards Street1.8 km from station604.648.3713stclairvancouver.com

Summit Lodge & Spa Whistler4359 Main Street, Whistler132 km from station604.932.2778summitlodge.com

The Sylvia Hotel1154 Gliford Street4.3 km from station604.681.9321sylviahotel.com

A TreeHouse Bed and Breakfast2490 W. 49th Avenue9.1 km from station604.266.2962treehousebb.com

Victorian Hotel514 Homer Street1.7 km from station604.681.6369victorianhotel.ca

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa845 Hornby Street2.4 km from station604.689.7777wedgewoodhotel.com

Loden Hotel1177 Melville Street3.4 km from station877.225.6336theloden.com

Moda Hotel900 Seymour Street2.2 km from station604.683.4251modahotel.ca

OPUS Vancouver322 Davie Street2.2 km from station604.642.6787opushotel.com

Patricia Hotel403 E. Hastings Street1.2 km from station604.255.4301patriciahotel.ca

The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel1431 Robson Street3.2 km from station604.685.1301rivieravancouver.com

Rosewood Hotel Georgia801 W. Georgia Street2.1 km from station604.682.5566rosewoodhotels.com

Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel1041 SW Marine Drive9.3 km from station604.263.1555coasthotels.com

English Bay Inn1968 Comox Street5 km from station604.683.8002englishbayinn.com

Executive Hotel LeSoleil657 Hornby Street2.2 km from station604.632.3000hotellesoleil.com

Executive Hotel Vintage Park1379 Howe Street2.9 km from station1.800.570.EXECexecutivehotels.net

Fairmont Chateau Whistler4599 Chateau Boulevard124 km from station604.938.8000fairmont.com

Georgian Court Hotel773 Beatty Street1.5 km from station604.682.5555georgiancourthotelvancouver.com

The Burrard, Vancouver

Summit Lodge & Spa, Whistler


21.4 km from stationlighthousepark.ca

Museum of Anthropology6393 NW Marine Drive13 km from station604.822.5087moa.ubc.caMuseum of Vancouver1100 Chestnut Street4.8 km from station604.736.4431museumofvancouver.caNorthlands Golf Course3400 Anne Macdonald Way16.4 km from station604.924.2950golfnorthlands.comPirate Adventures1820 Mast Tower Road4.1 km from station604.754.7535pirateadventures.caRobson Street2.8 km from station604.669.8132robsonstreet.caRockwood Adventures6342 Bruce Street7.4 km from station604.913.1621rockwoodadventures.com

Rogers Arena800 Griffiths Way2 km from station604.899.7400rogersarena.comScience World at TELUS World of Science1455 Quebec Street400 meters from station604.443.7440scienceworld.caSquamish Lil’Wat Cultural Centre4584 Blackcomb Way, Whistler1.866.441.7522124 km from stationslcc.ca

Stanley Park5 km from station604.681.6728vancouver.caVancouver Art Gallery750 Hornby Street2.3 km from station604.662.4700vanartgallery.bc.caVancouver Aquarium845 Avison Way6.3 km from station604.659.3400vanaqua.orgVancouver Maritime Museum1905 Ogden Avenue4.8 km from station604.257.8300vancouvermaritimemuseum.comVancouver SymphonyOrchestra500-843 Seymour Street2.1 km from station604.876.3434vancouversymphony.caWhistler Blackcomb4545 Blackcomb Way,Whistler124 km from station1.800.766.0449whistlerblackcomb.comYaletown District2.3 km from station604.683.7473yaletowninfo.com

14.4 from station604.980.9311grousemountain.comGulf of Georgia Cannery12138 4th Avenue, Richmond21 km from station604.664.9009gulfofgeorgiacannery.orgHarbour Cruises & Events501 Denman Street3.7 km from station604.688.7246boatcruises.comIan Tan Gallery2202 Granville Street4 km from station604.738.1077iantangallery.comKids Market1496 Cartwright Street4.3 km from station604.689.8447kidsmarket.ca Kurbatoff Gallery2435 Granville Street4.2 km from station604.736.5444kurbatoffgallery.com

Lighthouse ParkWest Vancouver

604.618.8626cyclevancouver.comDr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden578 Carrall Street1.2 km from station604.662.3207vancouverchinesegarden.comEcomarine Paddlesport Centres1668 Duranleau Street4.1 km from station604.689.7575ecomarine.comGranville Island4.1 km from station604.666.6655granvilleisland.comGranville Island Toy Company1496 Cartwright Street4.3 km from station604.684.0076toycompany.caGreater Vancouver Zoo5048 264th Street53.3 km from station604.856.6825gvzoo.comGrouse Mountain6400 Nancy Greene Way

Aquatic Venture Salmon Fishing & Boat Charters1510 Mariner Walk4 km from station778.882.FISHfishingchartervancouver.com Bau-Xi Gallery3045 Granville Street4.3 km from street604.733.7011bau-xi.comBeaty Biodiversity Museum2212 Main Mall14.2 km from station604.827.4955beatymuseum.ubc.caCapilano Suspension Bridge Park3735 Capilano Road10.7 km from station604.985.7474capbridge.comThe Cross Decor & Design1198 Homer Street2.3 km from station604.689.2900thecrossdesign.comCycle City Tours1798 W. Georgia Street3.6 km from station


Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Center, Vancouver


Sign up for our weekly events newsletter at

www.VisitTRI-CITIES.com

BRIGHTER,

BETTER.BOLDER,

LIVE LIFE A WHOLE LOT

Sign up for our weekly

THE HEART OF WASHINGTON WINE COUNTRY®

Fly Alaska Airlines from the Tri-Cities and check your �rst case of wine free! TasteAndTote.comFly Alaska Airlines from the Tri-Cities and check your �rst case of wine free! TasteAndTote.comFly Alaska Airlines from the Tri-Cities and check your �rst case of wine free! TasteAndTote.com

START YOUR WEEKEND WITH AN EXCLAMATION POINT!For a BRIGHTER, BOLDER, BETTER get-away than you’ve ever experienced in Washington’s Wine Country, visit Tri-Cities! Savor your experience at more than 200 wineries within an hour’s drive, enjoy a variety of restaurants, and revel in the brilliant colors of our world. We don’t do anything halfway. Visit Tri-Cities and add an exclamation point to your life’s biography!

To learn more, visit www.VisitTRI-CITIES.com.

Kennewick • Pasco • Richland

OnTrak Ad4”x 4.8125” Summer 2015

A picturesque 8 blocks from Portland's Union Station at 1129 NW Flanders Street.

Portland's locally owned hat boutique and custom millinery for women and men.

Hats and Accessories


Photo ContestEXP SURE

Portland is my hometown, and since I’ve lived here almost my entire life, I like to get out and explore with my camera. It makes me look at the city in different ways and lets me play tourist. This shot was taken on the pedestrian bridge going over the train tracks at Union Station. I had never explored the area near the train station, and I loved the look of old Portland in the middle of all the new Portland.

photo by Betsy Katz

Send us your rail travel photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure for achance to have your photo published.

Betsy Katz


Vancouver, BC

Bellingham

Mount Vernon

Stanwood

EverettEdmonds

SeattleTukwila

Tacoma

Olympia/Lacey

Centralia

Kelso/Longview

Vancouver, WA

PortlandOregon City

Salem

Albany

Eugene

AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS

Capital Cities

page 45

#Railgatingpage 48

Culture Crawlpage 34

THESE PACIFIC NORTHWEST AUTHORS will take you into rural British Columbia, 1892 New England and a London museum, all while you’re en route.

The World Before Us

by Aislinn HunterVancouver, BCWhen Jane Standen was 15 years old, she lost the five-year-old girl she was babysitting: in the woods. The girl was never found. Grown-up Jane works as an archivist at a small London museum that’s about to close due to funding. Before it does, she has one last project to track down the in-formation on a woman who disappeared 125 years ago. In her research, she finds one dilapidated country house that connects the missing woman’s case with the young girl who went missing on her watch.

A Man Came out of a Door

in the Mountainby Adrianne HarunPort Townsend, WAIn Harun’s debut novel, she

takes the non-fiction story of Native women disap-pearing throughout Canada and makes it the bases for a folkloric tale. Using magical realism and mythology, she tells the story of girls vanishing from the sides of a notorious highway in northern British Columbia. Local Leo Kreutzer and his friends are scarcely aware of the disappearances until they notice a mysterious stranger in town who seems to be the personification of the devil himself.

Loitering: New and Collected Essays

by Charles D’Ambrosio Portland, ORD’Ambrosio has somewhat of a cult following for his previous collection of essays, Orphans. In this new book, he writes with his distinctly funny and exacting mix of journalistic reporting and personal thought. Topics include Native American whaling, Mary Kay Letour-neau, Seattle in 1974, a Pentecostal “hell house” and his own family.

Jackaby

William RitterSpringfield, ORRitter’s first novel is the first of a series for young adults that has been described as “Doctor Who meets Sherlock Holmes.” R.F. Jackaby is an investigator in New Fiddle-ham, New England in 1892, and the story is told through the eyes of his assistant, Abigail Rook. Jackaby has the ability to see supernatu-ral beings, and Rook has the gift of noticing ordinary yet important details. Together, the two make a powerful team. When Jackaby is called to investigate a serial killer, he is certain it is non-human despite the conviction of local police.

4 Books for the TrainBY ANNA BIRD

Jodie

Pont

o

Chris P

oulso

n


PORTLAND

EUGENE

SALEM


SEATTLE

OLYMPIA

TACOMA


Amtrak Ad – Oregon Quarterly, Autumn 2015 7.875” W x 4.75” H 4C

Book now at Amtrak.com/GoDucks

SAVE 25% on Travel to University of Oregon Ducks Games!Ride the Amtrak Cascades® Game Train to a home game in Eugene and save 25%. Travel through November 28, 2015 and enjoy the ride with your fellow Ducks fans.

Stop by the bistro car for a cold beverage and a snack and revel in the glory as your favorite team wins another season. Go Ducks! Plus, kids (aged 2–12) ride at half off. So bring the family!

THIS OFFER IS EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT WWW.AMTRAK.COM. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR 25PCT OFF THE REGULAR (FULL) ADULT RAIL FARE. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR SALE BETWEEN 07AUG15 - 26NOV15 AND VALID FOR TRAVEL ON THE FOLLOWING DATES ONLY: 04-06SEP15, 18-20SEP15, 25-27SEP15, 09-11OCT15, 06-08NOV15, 20-22NOV15, AND 26-28NOV15. BLACKOUTS APPLY ON ALL OTHER DAYS. ADVANCE RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED A MINIMUM OF ONE (1) DAY PRIOR TO TRAVEL. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR TRAVEL ON THE AMTRAK CASCADES AND ASSOCIATED THRUWAYS; EXCEPT NOT VALID ON THE 7000-8999 THRUWAY SERIES. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR TRAVEL TO EUGENE, OREGON AND RETURN ONLY. SEATING IS LIMITED, SEATS MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE ON ALL DAYS. FARES ARE SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. UP TO 2 CHILDREN AGES 2-12 MAY ACCOMPANY EACH ADULT AT HALF THE REGULAR (FULL) ADULT RAIL FARE. THIS OFFER IS VALID FOR COACH SEATS ONLY; NO BUSINESS CLASS UPGRADES PERMITTED. THIS OFFER IS NOT COMBINABLE WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNT OFFER. IN ADDITION TO THE DISCOUNT RESTRICTIONS; THIS OFFER IS ALSO SUBJECT TO ANY RESTRICTIONS, BLACKOUTS AND REFUND RULES THAT APPLY TO THE TYPE OF FARE PURCHASED. FARES, ROUTES, AND SCHEDULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. ONCE TRAVEL HAS BEGUN; NO CHANGES TO THE ITINERARY ARE PERMITTED. OTHER RESTRICTIONS MAY APPLY. PLEASE REFER TO DISCOUNT CODE V611. AMTRAK AND AMTRAK CASCADES ARE REGISTERED SERVICE MARKS OF THE NATIONAL RAILROAD PASSENGER CORPORATION.


Parting Shot

TAKEN ALONG THE CHELATCHIE PRAIRIE RAILROAD IN YACOLT, WASHINGTON.

The all-volunteer Chelatchie Prairie Railroad chartered a photog-raphy excursion last fall. In the photo, a Crossett Western sad-dle-tanker rumbles above the Lewis River. The railroad operates passenger excursions out of Yacolt on selected weekends from May to December.

Kevin Madore

THE PERFECT ESCAPE

CAN HAPPEN

Must be 21 or over to play. Management reserves all rights. ©2015 Silver Reef Casino

With 105 beautiful hotel rooms and suites, a

luxury spa, headline entertainment, 10 diverse

dining options and exciting gaming, make

your next destination at the place where,

everything can happen!

SilverReefCasino.comI-5, Exit 260 | Ferndale, WA | 866.383.0777

EXPERIENCE EVERYTHINGEASY TO FIND, HARD TO LEAVE

SEE A CONDOR UP CLOSE, AND MAYBE SOON YOU’LL SEE THEM OVERHEAD.Together with our partners, Oregon Zoo is restoring native populations of endangered species. Every visit to

the zoo not only connects people to wildlife, but also supports our critical conservation work.

Plan your visit now at oregonzoo.org/today. Ride MAX Lightrail for $1.50 off zoo admission.

MAKING THEIR WORLD BETTER.

And ours.

Date post:	24-Jul-2016
Category:	Documents
Upload:	statehood-media
View:	224 times
Download:	5 times

Ontrak Fall 2015

Documents