Out on a limb (Issue 53)

ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

News

3

THE industry is gearing upfor the summer shows with WSA in Las Vegas, Pureand Moda all approachingfast.

Independent retailers arebeing advised to ‘buy smart’to avoid getting left with unwanted stock that just won’t sell and thisissue, Out On A Limb talksto the brands and agents on the front line to find out how consumerresearch and a tailor made offering can increasesales.

Spending money only in theright areas will be moreimportant than ever as newresearch has suggested thatthe UK footwear sector isset to face its biggest shake-up since the demiseof the British ShoeCorporation.

A study has concluded that the majority of lower and middle pricefootwear businesses arenow facing the risk ofcollapse and this could leadto many hundreds of emptyshops left on the highstreet.

However, the Society ofShoe Fitters has found thatmany stores are fightingback, with record numberssigning up for fitting courses in an attempt tooffer the customersomething extra.

The Society has attributedthe increase to the currentdifficult selling environmentand to retailers looking for something that can setthem apart from thecompetition.

How sectoris fightingback amiddifficulties

Laura bags fair tradewith a difference ...ACCESSORIES designer LauraQueening has created her latestcollection with the aim of bringingsomething new to the fair trademarket.

After being named Drapers StudentAccessories Designer of the Year in2007 she travelled to Nepal to findsuppliers and manufacturers toproduce her collection.

The Aura Que range is now availablein fair trade outlet Equa and Oxfamboutiques in London as well as otherretailers around the country.

Laura, pictured above, said: “I amtrying to appeal to a differentconsumer than the traditional fairtrade buyer – the products are morehigh end, the price point is slightlyhigher and this is reflected in thequality of the materials and thehandcrafting.

“I don’t want to compromise ondesign and it has always been myaim to avoid producing a

stereotypical fair trade product.

“I am trying to promote theNepalese skills and crafts, butcombining that with designs that willappeal to the UK market.”

Her collection is produced in afactory that employs underprivilegedworkers and the designs incorporatelocal materials including the AlloNettle Yarn, produced from aHimalayan plant, traditional Dhakawoven fabric and handmade brassfittings.

She added: “I wanted to start myown business as I like to follow aproject all the way through.

“For me it is much more appealingto work with local producers andother small businesses and createsomething together rather than justsending sketches off to a factory Ihave never visited and hope for thebest.

“I also think it is important that ifyou are going to put your name to

something, that you know how ithas been made and the processesthat have gone into it.”

Laura’s latest range features a seriesof leather shoppers and totes in palesage and black, with tailoring detailscombined with contemporaryshapes.

She has also received a lot ofrequests for men’s and unisex bagsand now plans to incorporate theseinto her next collection.

She added: “I hope to end up with acore, classic range of populardesigns, which I can then updatewith new and fresh styles eachseason.

“I like to keep on top of the latesttrends, but it is also important to methat the look of the bags is timeless,so that they can be enjoyed for along time. It seems that the more Ido, the more I learn what is possible– I want to keep expanding becausethere is so much that can be done.”

Online tool measures upA NEW online tool formeasuring children’s feet hasbeen launched by kids’footwear brand Start-rite. The company hascommissioned scientistsfrom the University of EastAnglia to develop thephotographic fitting system,which allows parents to buyfitted shoes over theinternet. To use the tool, ameasuring grid isdownloaded and printed outfrom the Start-rite website. Parents then take digitalphotographs of the child’sfeet on the grid, from threedifferent angles.Once uploaded, these allowthe ‘Click’n’Fit’ tool tocalculate the sizinginformation needed to buy

shoes online. Peter Lamble, chairman andMD, said: “Start-rite hasalways prided itself on beingat the leading edge ofdevelopments in children’sfitted footwear and we arereally excited about thislatest addition to ourwebsite. The new toolprovides parents who arebuying shoes for theirchildren online with the bestmeasuring option currentlyavailable. Consumers whoshop online are looking forease and conveniencewithout compromising onquality and that is what weare giving them with outtransactional website andthe measuring options itoffers.”

Robin Akeroyd has beenappointed as the newmanaging director of CrocsEurope.He takes over from DickWijsman who founded thecompany in Europe and willcontinue his work at Crocs in aglobal position.Robin has been deputymanaging director of CrocsEurope for almost four years

and has also worked in theinternational footwear marketfor the Deckers Corporationand Hub Footwear. He said: “Ilook forward to my newposition in Crocs. The companyhas experienced tremendoussuccess and now we have agreat range of products whichteamed up with our sales andoperational structures offerretailers a great mix.”

Contents Issue 53 June/July 09

Show time for shoe company

Iconic through the decades

Boost for struggling students

Brand gets sporty ...

Busy days for baby firm

Fairies dust new collection

Forging links

What’s going on and when

4

6

6

10

11

23

29

30

SalesTony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director

Beverley Green - Sales Manager([email protected])

Karrie-Anne Nowell - Sales Executive([email protected])

Advertising ContactsTel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477

EditorialAndrew Harrod - Group Editor

Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor

Louise Cordell - Editor

Christina Eccles - Reporter

Mary Ferguson - Reporter

Editorial ContactsTel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705Email: [email protected]

Design & ProductionStewart Holt - Studio Manager([email protected])

Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production([email protected])

Circulation01226 734695 (24 hour hotline)Email: [email protected]

COVER STORY

NEWS

SPOTLIGHT

NEWS

KIDS

NEWS

NEWS

DIARY DATES

Show time for Phildon ...PHILDON Footwear Ltd is afashion led wholesalecompany with over 20years’ experience of theindustry. This knowledge andexperience helps us todesign an extensive rangethat we feel has somethingfor everyone.We work with bothindependent stores andhigh-street chains, in the UKand overseas, supplyingthem with our own designs,or developing new andexciting ideas with theirbuyers and designers. The close relationship wehave with our customersand our factories means wecan bring you the latesttrends and fashions atcompetitive prices.This summer we re-launched our website,www.phildon.co.uk, whichwill be updated at the startof each season with thenew collection. This also enables us toshowcase new styles whichare added throughout theseason, as at PhildonFootwear Ltd we like tokeep our finger firmly onthe fashion pulse and offer

you the latest designs assoon as they step off thecatwalk. As well as having anew exciting website, thissummer also saw thelaunch of our new comfortfootwear brand called SisterMoon which has had anamazingly successful firstseason.The range is inspired bynature loving ladies wholike their footwear to makea fashionable statement. All the styles have leatheruppers and crepe soles andthe future looks veryexciting for this brand.As always we will beexhibiting at both Pure andModa this August. Our stands at both eventshave increased in size overthe past few years, as ourrange becomes larger andmore fashion forward. This year we have a brand

new location at Pure whichis situated nearer the brandssection, we are also nearerthe café. So why not comeand get a cup of coffee andview our excitingAutumn/Winter ‘09collection. Our standnumber at Pure is Fo12 andour stand number at Modais FD19.In addition to this we arehoping to exhibit at theMicam Shoe Event thisSeptember, which is seenwithin the shoe industry asthe number one trendsetting exhibition. Thousands flock to Micamas they know they will findproducts at the cuttingedge of fashion. Micam isthe number one shoe fair inthe world and it’s one ofthe places our designteam get theirinspiration from. Sowhy not check Phil-don Footwear Ltd outat any of the abovefairs, or the website tosee our collection ofmust have shoes.

Tel: 0208 309 8880Fax: 0208 309 8801

Email:[email protected]

News


ICONIC British brand Clarks iscelebrating its 60th anniversary witha new push on international sales.

The Clarks Originals range alreadyhas more than 95 per cent of salescome from outside the UK and aimsto trade even more on its authenticBritish culture.

The company is based in Somerset –where the first Clarks shoes weremade in 1825 – and all its leathersare still sourced from the sametannery in Leeds that have beensupplying them for over 60 years.

Brand director Sebastian Edwardssaid: “Britishness is a fundamentalpart of the brand culture and ourheritage is central to everything thatwe do. But our appeal really dependson where you go in the world as allof our biggest markets have diversecultures and different relationshipswith the UK.

“For example, in Japan being Britishis important, but more important isbeing the owner of the originalversion of an iconic fashion profile,but in South Korea the mainattraction is our quirkiness and the

fact that the products are differentto anything else in the market.”

Despite the difficult financial climateSebastian also believes that thecompany is well placed to deal withthe downturn, thanks to the brand’shistory.

He added: “We feel our clearheritage puts us in a strongerposition than many fashion brands,who find themselves continuallychasing the latest trends.

“Our plan is to protect the businessby staying true to our strategy ofcombining classic and contemporarydesign with the best quality materialsto produce shoes that are unique,but that never forget their roots.”

The brand is to celebrate theanniversary with the launch of aseries of special edition products. Adesert boot has been created foreach decade, including a 50s Harristweed, a 60s liberty print, a 70spurple suede, an 80s denim designand a 90s Union Jack.

Sebastian said: “We felt that thedesert boot was timeless because ithas never gone out of fashion.

“Instead it has enjoyed a revival inevery one of the last six decades,being adopted by new generationseach time. So every one of theanniversary shoes has been inspiredby the events and fashions weremember from the time.”

Iconic brand through the decadesFifties

Sixties

Seventies

Eighties

Nineties

300m pairsof shoesleft unwornOVER 300 million pairs of shoesare being left unworn in the UKbecause they have been boughteven when they don’t fit. New research from Hush Puppieshas revealed that although one infive women in the UK own morethan 25 pairs, most are leftgathering dust in the bottom oftheir wardrobes. Over 70 per cent of womenclaimed that they don’t wear halfof their shoe collection andadmitted this was because theyhad bought a pair of shoes thatdidn’t fit properly and then neverput them on.The study also revealed that morethan half of UK women take a pairof flats on a night out to changeinto when their heels become toopainful, 43 per cent travel to workin flats and only put their heels onwhen they get in, and 32 per centkeep up to ten pairs under theirdesk at all times to choose from. The report stated: “The damagethat skyscraper heels can do towomen and their bodies has beenwell reported in the press.“Women are even puttingthemselves through painfulmedical procedures to repair thedamage that poorly fitting shoeshave done. With 57 per cent ofpeople claiming that comfort is themost important thing to themwhen buying new shoes, there isclearly a shopping dilemma for theUK’s shoe loving women.”

Converse has released ‘The Weapon’ as part of itsHeritage Basketball collection for spring/summer2009.The range has been created to represent iconicmoments from basketball history using many of theoriginal team colours including The Chicago Bulls,LA Lakers, New York Nicks and Boston Celtics.The collection’s styles include re-released Conversesilhouettes in a variety of colourways for both menand women.

Footwear designer Sophie Gittins has produced a new limited edition shoe to supplementher autumn/winter 09 collection.

The design was created followingthe range’s launch during LondonFashion Week, as part of theFelicities Designer Exhibition.

The styles are characterised bygraphic shapes and spiked stilettosin fabrics including goat suede, silkorganza, mohair wool and lambnappa.

Each of the shoes is named afteran influential historical figure, withnames for A/W09 taken frommembers of the Austrian Weiner

Werkstatte art movement.

Sophie has previously displayedher designs as part of a touringexhibition with Manolo Blahnik,Jimmy Choo and Gil Cavalho andhas been nominated for theMichael Morris MarchpoleAccessories Award.

Designer Spotlight


CREATED out of the Englishunderground rock and roll sceneover twenty years ago, the demandfor original and creative footwearstyles led to T.U.K taking its Britishcraftsmanship and traditionalshoemaking techniques to thealternative subculture of SouthernCalifornia.

What the letters T.U.K stand for is aclosely guarded secret, but celebrityfans include U2, Green Day, AvrilLavigne and Blink 182 – and theshoes have even made it on to therunways of London Fashion week.

Lisa said: “It was the mix of theAmerican alternative music scene, itssurrounding culture, and our strongroots in the UK which have shapedour past and guide our future.

“T.U.K’s aims have been consistent

from the word go – to createoriginal footwear for men, women,and children who are inspired bymusic, art, and fashion and whowant to represent individuality andexpression. This is what T.U.K hasalways been famed for and why wehave become a staple for the musicscene.”

Styles reference historic music andsubculture trends and the brandaims to stand out from the crowdwith shoes that are gritty andartistic, but still functionallyfashionable and at a price point thatenables customers to have fun withthe brand.

T.U.K is renowned for its Creepersand the company has evolved themto cater for retailers and fans.

Alongside the traditional

stacked Creepers which have beenpopular with the fashion press, thebrand has produced the SneakerCreeper which has the comfort of atrainer with a more subtle Creeperlook, in bright prints.

Lisa said the brand is also doingextremely well with women’s heels,with many styles completely sellingout each season.

“Our platforms and super platformsare totally different to anything elseavailable and just seem to becapturing customers imaginations.

“Most of our UK retailers will startwith some of T.U.K’s lower heels andmaybe just one platform but beforelong they’re ordering and reorderingthe super platforms and telling usthe positive responses they get from

customers.”

In the beginning T.U.K was a unisexbrand with very few styles made foronly men and women, but it nowoffers stand-alone ranges for men,women and children, with a muchbroader product scope.

And the Autumn 09 collection willintroduce a whole new concept inpresentation for T.U.K., filled with‘mini ranges’ driven by themes.

Lisa said: “We have a lot of fun hereat T.U.K and that’s echoed in ourdesigns and the response we getfrom our customer.

“Ultimately we hope the futurecontinues to bring us all enjoymentas well as prosperity which hasalways been – and I’m sure willcontinue to be – the key to T.U.K’ssuccess.”

Footwear brand T.U.K was born in England and raised in California, but enjoysworldwide notoriety for its individual styles inspired by music, art and fashion. MaryFerguson spoke to design director Lisa Sanger-Greshko.

Notorious brand inspiredby music, art and fashion

8

NewsBritish footwear designer Cleo Barbour has launchedher debut collection.The Cleo B autumn/winter 09 range is made up of 20different styles including peep toe wedges and heels,classic courts, shoe boots and ankle boot.All the designs have been inspired by the bird ofparadise and feature signature acrylic,Swarovski and fabric detailing.Cleo was educated at Cordwainer’sCollege at the London Collegeof Fashion and trained atthe Salvatore Ferragamodesign studio in Florence.Before creating her owncollection, she worked designingcouture shoes for Georgina Goodmanand Nicholas Kirkwood’s Avant-Garde collection.

All brandsmust adaptto stay aheadBy Louise Cordell

EVEN successful footwear brandsmust adapt to stay ahead in thecurrent climate according to AscotInternational founder Geoff Seth. He set up the company in 1972providing sports shoes to cater forthe fitness boom of the 70s and 80s. For years the brand produced a hugevariety of trainers, football boots andsquash shoes, but after over 30 yearsin a competitive market it needed tofind a wider audience. Geoff turned to market research inorder to find out exactly what theconsumer wanted and came up withthree new ranges to attract a newtype of buyer. He said: “I feel we have avoided themain challenges facing establishedbrands at the moment because ourproducts are unique – especially theAzor La Mode range as we use anexclusive last. “By being different from other shoecompanies we manage to avoidsuffering many of the headaches.”The new ranges include a collectionof high quality occasions shoes withtwo price points, a higher cost, handfinished line, and a lower priced,non-leather sole line. A comfort range with a younger,

more casual look including leathershoes and flip flops in a variety ofcolours.

Finally, the newest collection, whichis an arty, cult brand designed to beworn by a younger generation ofDJs, musicians, artists, skaters anddancers.

To publicise this brand it has beenaffiliated with new movies, includingthe recent Jason Statham film Crank2.

Geoff added: “We chose the newconcepts by looking at the marketand thinking about what shoeofferings we felt were needed.

“For the occasion shoes range wewanted to provide men with highquality shoes that were inspired byItalian design but for the youngerrange our focus was comfort andstyle.

“The main challenge when movinginto a new area of design and retailis creating a range of shoes thatconsumers like and which will sell.

“However, there are benefits as well,because if you can come up withstyles that are differentiated fromother players in the footwearindustry, then competition isdiminished and you can achievemore success.”

Shoes an ‘untouchable luxury’WOMEN are still splashing out onnew shoes despite the ongoingcredit crunch according to a newsurvey.

Nearly a quarter of consumers arerefusing to cut back on shoepurchases, describing them as an‘untouchable luxury’, whatever thefinancial circumstances.

The survey, carried out byBIGresearch and Stores magazine,revealed that shoes were off limitswhen it came to cutbacks, and

instead women were giving upfacials and handbags, calling them‘expendable purchases’.

Phil Rist, executive vice president atBIGresearch, said: “Today’s economyhas had an impact on everyone andretailers are dealing with verydifferent shoppers than they wereone year ago.

“While many people have opted totrade down, some refuse to sacrificecertain luxuries, cutting items theyfeel are expendable to compensate.”

News


Poltsa is launching a new range of Spanishhandmade leather handbags for autumn/winter 2009. The Artisan range, hand craftedfollowing local traditions, is made from softleather and combines different textures andseasonal colours. In addition to handbagsthe collection also includes leather belts,coin purses and handbag hangers.

After 30 years on the UK footwearmarket, Pod is undergoing a retrorevival.As the new brand licensees since 2008,Aegis Shoes are taking the designsback to their summer of 1976 roots.The campaign will include the relaunchof the Pin-Punch stitch out shoe withoriginal features like the trapezium logoand Pod man swing tags.The Pin-Punch shoe is part of the PodNatural range, which also includes thebrand’s latest designs such as theirnatural foot-shaped boat shoes andurban hikers.

ROCCA International offers a highfashion range of sandals, shoesand boots in leather andsynthetics.The company provideswholesale stock during theseason as well as a made toorder option.There are three ranges availableincluding Red Girl for the lateststyles, Igual for leather Spanishboots and Rocca for leatherdesigns, made in Portugal.

By Louise Cordell

CLARKS is set to launch its firstever sports range in order toexpand its customer base.

The collection will be available instores this summer and includesSports Life, a line made for specificsporting activities and Sports Style,a sports inspired fashion shoe.

Paul Townsend, Clarks Sport trademarketing manager, said: “Wemade the decision to introduce asports range as we recognise howuniversal the world of sport is intoday’s market place.

“We wanted to ensure ourbusiness was versatile enough toreact to the demands of ourconsumers.

“While there will always bechallenges when launching a newrange, particularly in the currenteconomic climate, we areconfident that our products willintroduce a freshness to the sportsmarket and meet the demands ofour consumers.”

The collection includes several newtechnological innovationsdeveloped exclusively for ClarksSport, including the Atsu massagefootbed, which improves bloodcirculation to invigorate feet, andthe Rock outsole, made from anadvanced rubber compound todeliver grip, stability and abrasionresistance.

Paul added: “The main challengein moving into such a specialistarea is that of credibility.Companies venturing into thisarena have to ask themselves whatthey offer that makes themrelevant.

“However, we are a trusted brandthat has stood the test of time, weare footwear specialists and havean abundance of expertise in howfeet move and need protectionduring physical activity.

“We have initially launched ClarksSport by focussing on servicing

specific sportscategories thatwe can deliverwith credibility.We will thenbuild our basefrom here.”

The Sport LifeOpenaircollection features lightweight,protective boots and shoes forhiking, trekking and urbanwalking.

Also within Sport Life isStudiozone, a range designedexclusively for women, includingthe Inca Slip, a shoe featuring theAtsu massage footbed and createdfor general studio trainingactivities and for those who spendan extended amount of time ontheir feet.

Within Sport Style, the men’sfreestyle collection features PlatoLace, a training model built on arunning silhouette, while freestylefor women includes Jave Lace, thefirst women’s shoe to featureActive Air with Airflow System.

Other styles include Jetty Wave,the classic court shoe updated instylish leathers complete withleather linings, and Jewel Lace, acontemporary sports fashion lookdelivered as an elegant classicrunning silhouette.

Paul added: “Clark Sport is a long-term commitment for thecompany.

“We are investing heavily inproduct development and alsoensuring the range has themarketing support it needs.

“We have already developed twonew and unique fit-for-purposetechnologies for our Sport range-so we are in this for the longterm.”

Brand gets sporty toexpand customer base

Schuh wellyexchangeSCHUH is launching its first ever‘Welly Exchange’ at festivals thissummer, offering visitors the chanceto keep their feet dry and contributeto charity at the same time. The idea is that when festival goersget tired of their muddy and ruinedsandals or trainers, they can visit theexchange to swap them for a brandnew pair of wellies. Their discarded shoes will then becollected by the European RecyclingCompany and shipped to third worldcountries where they can be cleanedup and sold on – creating a muchneeded local industry. All the money made from sales iskept by the local people and it is alsoa cheap way of providing cheapfootwear for those who couldn’tnormally afford it. As an addedbonus, it will prevent festivalorganisers from having to deal withpiles of shoes normally left behindafter events and reduce the tonnesof unwanted shoes that end up onlandfill sites once the season is over. The Schuh Welly Exchange will beappearing at festivals throughout thesummer from Rockness in Scotlandto Oxegen in Ireland, offering welliesin sizes from three up to 12.


Kool for Kids

11

BABYSHOES carries one of thelargest in stock ranges of continentalbaby shoes in the UK.

It has over 40 styles and 12 colours.

Established in 1936 by the presentowner’s uncles, Trevor – who nowruns the company – changed fromsupplying ladies’ and gents’ shoes to just baby and children’sshoes imported from Spain andPortugal.

It has a next day delivery service freeon orders over £250 but does nothave a minimum order, so you canorder anything from a single pair to anew shop full.

Babyshoes has won numerousawards for its customer service andquality of products, but its finestaccolade has been its inclusion in this

year’s Who’s Who of Britain’sBusiness Elite.

The company has showrooms inGlasgow, Manchester andBirmingham for any customer whowants to view the full range.

For information contact Trevor on 01512 803049,

e-mail: [email protected] orvisit: www.babyshoes.co.uk.

Baby range features over 40 styles

Early Days, the Leicester-based baby shoemanufacturers, are enjoying their busiesttrading in recent years.The company attributes its success to thetremendous reaction to their latest collectionand the quality of their product and service.Specialising in baby footwear from birth to threeyears since 1952 EarlyDays like to think theyprovide a style for every occasion.For further information please visit theirwebsite: www.earlydays.ltd.uk or if you wouldlike a copy of their latest catalogue please e-mail: [email protected] or call: 01162716944.

Podlers’ new Solar collectionis set to be launched in storesthis summer.The shoes have beendesigned to aid the naturaldevelopment of children’s feetwith lightweight, sturdy andflexible rubber soles.The full range is also madefrom soft, breathable leatherfor extra comfort.

THE distribution of Superfitchildren’s shoes in the UK andIreland by Bramwell Internationalis set to be handed over to themanufacturer Superfit/Legero inJuly. The company will employ theexisting sales team in the UK andIreland and co-ordinate bothlogistic and financial support fromtheir head office in Graz, Austria.

A key part of Superfit’s UKoffering is a year round ‘Back toSchool’ range and, forspring/summer 2010, thecompany will be launching its firstUK adults’ collection.

Distribution handover

Fly London have launched akids’ range for

autumn/winter 2009. Thecollection of boots and shoes

for girls and boys comes incolours and materials

including patents and waxedleathers in red, purple, green

and turquoise, with sizesfrom 28 to 41. The brand arenow looking for select kids’

retailers and footwear storesto carry this brand.

Accessories


NOW celebrating its 48thanniversary, the Home and Gift showbrings together over 11,000 visitorsand 950 exhibitors each July.

It presents a crucial buyingopportunity for retailers to placeorders for Christmas and source newseason stock.

Product categories appearing at theshow include general gifts, designled gifts, collectables and traditionalgifts, home accessories, greetingcards and stationery, china and glassand fashion accessories andjewellery.

This year’s show is 85 per cent

booked, with key exhibitors OneWorld Trading, Gisela Graham, JanConstantine, De Montfort Fine Art,India Jane, Coeur De Lion, LibraCompany, Rex International, Enesco,Salco Group and many moreconfirmed.

For 2009, Home and Gift has alsoattracted 200 new exhibitors such asCocoon U, Five Dollar Shake, NourLondon, Shruti Designs, OwenBarry,Takkoda, Hot Munkey, HHJTrading and Hunter Gatherer.

Throughout the event there will alsobe seminars, retail surgeries andproduct features as well as a rangeof social events.

Show gives crucial buying opportunity

Picture Case is launching its unique range oflight ABS trolley cases, in 20", 24" and 28"sizes, with distinctive designs and imagesincorporated on the case.The launch will include the ‘Design’,‘Celebration’, ‘National’, ‘Football’ and‘Travel’ ranges, with more to follow.

THE Susino Umbrella Companywas founded in 1995 in Fujian,China.

It produces over 20 millionumbrellas which are exported tomore than 128 countries andterritories including the UnitedStates, Italy, Japan, Russia,Lebanon, Brazil and its latestventure saw Susino open inLiverpool in 2007.

Susino has also manufacturedgarden and event parasols and other packaging solutions for other companies’products.

More recently the company has begun to manufacture and sell reusable shopping bags in a range of designs andstyles to cater for the reduceddemand for plastic bags.

Umbrella company makes asplash with 20m brollies a year


News

13

NEONCollective is the world’s first onlineretailer dedicated to the best vegandesigner shoes, handbags andaccessories.The web-based boutique waslaunched by Clare Childs inNovember 2008 in an attempt toprovide ethical footwear fans with aone stop shop and to prove to

sceptics that vegan fashioncan stand up to

mainstream competition. She said: “As a vegetarian myself, Iwas always trying to source highend, vegan shoes and though therewere lots of smaller designersscattered around, there was nowherethat brought them all together andmade things easy for the consumer.

With this site all the leg workhas been done, and

shoppers can beconfident that all the

products have beencarefully vetted to make sure

they are vegan, ethically sourced andfrom environmentally responsiblesuppliers.”The site’s ethical policy means it willnot sell any product that containsany animal derived product, that ismade in a sweatshop or by childrenor if its manufacture causes needlesspollution. Once the supplier has metthese criteria, the styles must thenmake the cut as a fashion must-haveto meet the Neon Collectiveobjective of ‘responsible luxury’.Brands stocked on the site includeBeyond Skin’s luxury line Sui Generis,New York label OIsenHaus, TerraPlana, Po-Zu, a vegan alternative tothe sheep skin Ugg boot andexclusive designs from Italian brand

Kailia Footwear.Clare added: “I always think

that if people are goingto buy vegan shoeson the grounds thatthey object to

animals being

An online vegan boutique that offers ‘killer heels without the kill’ isattracting fans from around the world. Clare Childs launched NeonCollective just six months ago with the aim of providing responsibleluxury – Out On A Limb finds out how.

Taking the killout of killer ...

EUROPE’S largest shoe retailer isinvesting in the UK high street withten new stores due to open this year.German company Deichmann, whichhas more than 2,500 shops inEurope and the US, already has 31outlets in the Midlands and theNorth of England.It now plans to expand into theSouth East by opening a flagship unitat the Westfield Shopping Centre inLondon.The retailing giant expects to investapproximately £4.5m on storedevelopment and create 150 newjobs in the UK before the end of theyear.Heinrich Deichmann, the CEO ofDeichmann Group, said: “The UK isa key market for us. We see a greatdeal of opportunity for expansionhere across the next ten years.“Even with the difficult economicenvironment we see a positive

pattern of opportunity and will scale-up our presence accordingly.“The nature of our business meansthat we are able to finance our plansorganically without the need to raiseexternal capital.”The retailer has been looking attaking on some of the vacant spacesleft by stores including Woolworthsand Zavvi, as its ‘self-service’ storesneed a much larger floor space thanthe average footwear outlet.

Heinrich Deichmann

harmed, then they should also avoidanything that causes human orenvironmental harm too. “However, it is also very important tome to keep the site’s offering veryfashion focussed. “Vegan shoes have had a badreputation in the past, but now thereare some great new technologiesavailable and new designersemerging who are really pushing theboundaries. At the end of the day itis unrealistic to ask most people tobuy based purely on the product’sethics – they need to fall in love withthe design first, and this way peoplecan have both.” The website is now set to expandwith the inclusion of a series ofvideos showing filming at thefactories where the shoes and bagsare made, interview with thedesigners and catwalk shows of the

all the products. The aim is to give the customer thechance to see the entire chain ofproduction so that they can feelconnected to the effort and care thatgoes into the process. Clare has also started working withUK firm Jinga Shoes, which produceBrazilian trainers, to release a specialedition, Neon Collective style madefrom recycled truck tarp canvas.She added: “We are branching outinto a lot of new things and I amalso keen to expand into men’s andchildren’s styles as well as women’s. “It would also be great to have ahigh street presence at some point –I think that while people are happyto shop for shoes online, as a rulethey prefer to be able to try themand I would like to offer that. “It would be a risk move at the

Retailer invests in ten new UK stores

New products and accessories

ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2OO914

ORIGINALLY launched in the 80s, thePadders Pedalos brand quicklybecame a fast-selling value range. Caught in the doldrums, Pedaloswere waiting for a fair wind, in theshape of Debby Cooper, Padders’design manager to re-float thebrand. She said: “I’m really excitedabout Pedalos and think they havehuge potential. I would like thecollection to have a younger, fun feelthat appeals to a lady who wants tolook stylish but doesn’t want tospend a fortune doing so.” Debby has created a highlycommercial collection that has awonderful holiday feel – thinksparkling sunlight glinting off warmazure seas, exotic flowers and sunny,

secluded coves. Offered in an arrayof styles and warm Mediterraneancolours, pretty floral detailing,leather uppers and linings andcushioned, lightweight soles, Pedalosexceed all expectations. And with aretail price of just £39.99 you realisethey could be the best thing to washup on your shore next summer.

For more details contact Mike Rowe on01536 534976 or e-mail:

[email protected]

Summer love Romotion agreementROMIKA has announced anagreement with footcareretailer Shuropody to stocktheir new Romotion range. The new Romotion rangetechnology aims to support anatural way of walking andcan help improve generalfoot problems including flatfeet, arthritis and relief forthe Achilles tendon.Research has shown that theaverage person makes between8,000 and 10,000 steps per day,which can weaken the tendons oroverload the foot joints leading tothe emergence of foot problems. The Romotion range includes aremovable insole that provides a softfoot bed, optimal pressuredistribution and an ergonomicallyformed heel to stabilize the foot.Martin Ingram, Romika UK and

Ireland MD said “Romotion issuitable for everyone in theireveryday life and fits perfectly withthe Shuropody ethos of holistic footcare. We are delighted that thanks tothis new agreement more consumerswill be introduced to this excitingnew product addressing their foothealth concerns. Romotion footwearactivates the foot and its musclesleading to a more natural way ofwalking.”

Ion-mask first for Van Dal teamTHE Van Dal team has takendelivery of the UK’s first productionion-mask machine.

Van Dal will be only the secondconsumer brand not just footwearin the world to launch productswith this technology, onlypreviously seen on a technicalwalking product in autumn/winter2008.

‘Ion Mask’ is used on suede shoesand boots for autumn/winter

where it repels substances likewater, oil and red wine tosubstantially reduce the risk ofstaining. It also helps to keep feetdry and the shoes/boots lookingnew for longer. Applied throughthe use of a plasma the nano-technology enhances the shoes ona molecular scale.

As a result the ion-masked Van Dalshoes remain lighter, cleaner andare more breathable thanconventional untreated footwear.


New Products/accessories

15

ARE you ready and looking forsomething truly different andexciting in fashion footwear?If the answer is 'yes', let usintroduce you to Grotesquefootwear.Grotesque, as the name describes,offers extreme beauty and a realalternative to the footwear trade.The range, aimed at leadingindependents and boutiques, hasjust been launched by BlastFootwear based in Northampton.This exciting range offers bothmen’s and women’s footwear andboots ranges made from the finestquality leathers and lastsimaginable.Quality, styling and finish were thekeywords when this brand wascreated by Geert Slaats, a leadingfootwear designer, two years agoin Holland.A real labour of love, the rangefeatures materials and finishesrarely available or afforded by thetrade including hand tumbled

vegetable tanned leather and calflinings amongst many other featureleathers.

Grotesque proved very popular at itslaunch in the UK at February’s Pureshow in Olympia, picking up 18accounts across the UK in its firstseason.With prices ranging from £65 to£100 wholesale, it may not be thecheapest but they are a realalternative for any footwear store.To prove its appeal and theconfidence in its design andconcept, the brand is offering a nominimums policy to any storelooking to carry the brand -allowing them to effectively trial therange, making this abespoke brand.The brand can be viewed online at:www.grotesque.be and will also beshowing this summer at Bread andButter, Micam and GDS.Appointments to view the range canalso be made with Nigel Styles, theUK sales manger, either at yourstore on at the Northamptonshowroom.Nigel is available on 0797 662 8269 or e-mail:[email protected].

To see the latest collection from Grinders call: 01245 465050

or e-mail [email protected]

Advertisers Announcement


A new fashion trend excites all high-heel-addicts all over Europe.Stiletto Cuffs are fancy and decorative, and they guard everythingthey get in touch with: shoes, floors, and last but not least thewomen - whether in Ascot or the streets of London...

Introducing the brand name Heaven on Heels, a young Germancompany called Dreamware just conquers the market. So far, theyoffer 2 models (called Classic and Diamond Rings) in manycolours and various styles. The patented stiletto cuffs are made ofelastic material, and a soft inner winding guarantees a perfect fit onthin heels of various shapes.

Shoe brand stores like Stuart Weitzman offer the “Stiletto Cuffs“,and high class fashion boutiques in Germany, Switzerland andAustria just discovere the product line. Heaven on Heels were usedas VIP gifts during film award events, and many trend magazinesin TV and printed press - such as ELLE, COSMOPOLITAN andICON provided broad awareness. The manager of the company(and designer of the product) plans to go to U.K. fairs in near future, although “we are extremely busyright now and have to manage rapid growth in our home market - but we look forward to introduceHeaven on Heels to the British customers“. For contact and details: www.heaven-on-heels.com

News


Anniversarycelebrationfor ChicCHIC is set to celebrate its fifteenthanniversary as the UK’s only trade fairdedicated to fashion accessories andtravel goods.

Organiser Michelle Chappell said:“We are proud to be celebrating our15th anniversary this year.

“More than double our original sizeand with so many new and excitingproducts which are either launchingtheir new brands at Chic or showingwith us for the first time in the UK.

“Antler will be showing all theirluggage ranges plus their newBramble and Brown and Gracie Maebrands, and we have some fabulousjewellery brands as well.

“It is so exciting to see so muchenthusiasm and drive from thesenew brands especially when all thenews is about gloom and despair.

“I really hope that our buyerssupport all the new brands and thecompanies looking to enter the UKmarket.

“It is essential for independentfashion stores to be looking out forsomething new and different, and Ihope that the Chic show will giveeveryone the chance to trysomething a little different to attractnew customers to their stores.”

Sector set for shake-upsays new reportTHE UK footwear sector is set to faceits biggest shakeup since the demiseof the British Shoe Corporationaccording to a new report. Verdict Research has concluded thata large part of the lower and middleprice footwear business is nowfacing the risk of collapse, leavingonly a few large scale specialists andthe more premium companiessurviving.The report warns that this could leadto many hundreds of empty shopsleft on the high street. Maureen Hinton, lead analyst, said:“The past year has been especiallychallenging for footwear specialists. “Like other retailers they face fallingdemand allied with rising costs, butthe imposition of anti-dumping

import tariffs combined with aweakening British pound worsenedan already bad situation.”The report showed that by the endof 2008, out of ten major footwearchains, four were loss-making andnone made an operating margin ofover ten per cent. It also claimed that footwearspecialists are set to lose out on evenmore business to non-specialists,especially clothes stores that are ableto easily increase sales with theaddition of a small footweardepartment. It names New Look asan example, which has become sosuccessful in selling shoes that thisarea now accounts for around 20 percent of its sales. Maureen added: “As the specialists

hit financial difficulties, their firstresponse is to shed unprofitablestores. At the current rate we believeat least 350 stores could disappear ascompanies downsize – but it couldbe as many as 1,000.” The report claims that there are onlya few key areas left where specialistswill be able to capture the marketshare, including the comfortsegment, niche young fashion andpremium. Maureen added: “There could be asmuch as £600m expenditure up forgrabs, but outside these areas, thepossibilities for survival of specialistfootwear chains will be limited, andonly those that can create significanteconomies of scale are likely to beable to survive.”

Guide offers swollen feet advice to retailersA FREE guide to fitting footwearfor swollen feet has been publishedby Cosyfeet to help educateretailers.

The guide, by orthopaedicfootwear consultant GwendaCarter, explains what sort offootwear is suitable for swollen

feet as well as advice to give to clients about buyingfootwear.

It also features a section on socksand hosiery for swollen feet.

David Price, Cosyfeet MD, said:“Healthcare professionals are

increasingly called upon to treatinjuries caused by poorly fittingfootwear to patients with swollenfeet.

“This guide is designed to provideessential information to pass on topatients with potentially vulnerablefeet.”

Advertiser’s Announcement

News

Beatrix Ong has released a fairy-inspiredcollection for autumn/winter 2009.Colours and textures include hot pink andpurple, metallic patents and exotic skins likecyber python and holographic lizard.

Classic stilettos, hidden and visibleplatforms, flat pumps, shoe bootsand Victorian inspired, kick flare heel

lace up boots are all featured in therange.

Every shoe in the collection has been namedafter a fairy, including Nixie, a classic stilettocourt, Donella, a lack up ankle boot, Gullveig,

a high heeled loafer and Shaylee, aperspex and satin sandal.

Beatrix has also created anexclusive limited edition

collection of five keystyles from the collection

which will be availableexclusively at Dover Street

Market from July 2009.

Beatrix collectioninspired by fairies

High quality entryprompts contestextensionTHIS year’s Cordwainers studentdesign competition has beenextended due to the high quality ofentries.

London College of Fashion had beencollaborating with VivaLaDiva.com tofind the most talented student shoemakers on the course.

However, because the judges lovedso many of the designs they havedecided that they will now choosemore than one winner, and offerVivaLaDiva.com customers a range ofstyles. Rachele Hopkins fromVivaLaDiva.com said: “When we sawthe final ten students we were soimpressed with the quality andstandard of the work we wereliterally spoiled for choice.

“That’s when we thought it wouldbe a great idea to get feedback fromour customers to decide which styleswe should take into production.

“This could also potentially mean wehave more than one winner if severaldesigns prove to be popular.

“So we are currently creating asection on the website wherecustomers will be able to go to seeall of the finalists’ designs,preparation and personal profiles.

“This will hopefully give ourcustomers a flavour of each of thestudent’s style of design and will alsohelp to build the profile of the finalten designers.”

A special section of the website willbe dedicated to the Cordwainersproject and customers will be able toleave their comments on all the finalstyles.

Once they have looked at all thefeedback, the judges will then makea final decision on which designs willbe permanently available to buy.

The collection of spring/summer 10styles will then be launched inJanuary.

Rachele added: “We are all reallyexcited about the project and wecan’t wait to hear from ourcustomers to see what they think.”

Work shoe collection launchCROCS has introduced a newrange of anti-static footwear whichhas been specially designed to beworn in the workplace.

The work shoe collection has beentested to the latest Europeanstandards and can help to dissipateelectrostatic charge

Three new models, Fuse, Fuse Ventand Energy have been created to

be suitable for the medical sector,the food industry and clean roomsand other laboratories.

As well as the anti-static properties,they feature a thicker metatarsalarea to protect the top of the foot,are made of odour and bacteriaresistant material and can becleaned and sterilised in bleach andwater.

Performance


Investing in training reaps benefitsFOOT specialists Anatom, anddistributors of performanceoutdoor products includingSuperfeet insoles and TEKOtechnical socks, has been deliveringbespoke and in-house training toretail and allied healthprofessionals since 1994.

Anatom Academy training coursestake place in the spring andautumn each year and aredelivered by fully qualifiedpersonnel.

Fergus Paton, northern trainingmanager, said: “In the past monthor so I’ve travelled the length ofthe country visiting retailers andone thing has been made clear tome: those who have invested in aculture of excellent customerservice are positively thriving or, at

least, riding out the currenteconomic climate better than thosewho haven’t.

“One thing they have in common?They have taken steps to equiptheir staff with the knowledge andconfidence to serve each and everycustomer who enters their store.

“In other words, they considerstaff training as a smart businessinvestment rather than a vagueand unnecessary expenditure.

“We know that consumers aresavvy and are looking to spendtheir money wisely.

“With the bewildering range offabrics, materials, sizes, cuts, fitsand applications available to themwe also know they’re more likely

to seek out retailers they trust fortheir product knowledge, credibilityand level of service, happy thatthey are getting the best adviceavailable.

“Quality training inspires andmotivates, educates and intriguesand helps distinguishknowledgeable staff as anintellectual asset compared tocompetitors.

“This culture of training anddevelopment has proven itself inthe past by helping staff make themost of every customer visit(especially when footfall is indecline) as well as developcustomer loyalty at the same time.

“Staff need confidence inthemselves as well as excellent

product knowledge in order toapproach customers whether it befor an informal greeting or to helpthe customer find what they’relooking for and, ultimately, ensurethat the customer has everythingthey need – ignore the up-andcross-sell opportunity at yourperil.”

Umbro has launched a limited edition range of footballboots – the England Speciali.Only 283 pairs have been produced by the company inorder to mark the launch of the new England homeshirt.The Speciali has been developed to display simplicity over modern designs, including integrated technology like covered lacing for ball control.The boots are made from Italian K leather and feature the new England crest on the outsole.Each pair has its own number stamped on the presentation box lid and also includes a boot care kit.

FILA has launched its 2009Wimbledon Footwear collection with the sponsorship of12 young British Elite tennisplayers.

The brand will be supportingathletes including Melanie South,Amanda Elliott, Josh Goodall,James Ward and Chris Eaton, alltipped for British tennis successthis summer.

As the official footwear licenseefor Wimbledon, Fila has created afull range of dual brandedperformance and lifestyle footwear

– including the Fila AlfaWimbledon performance shoe.

The shoe will be worn by the ballcrew for all matches at TheChampionships, Wimbledon and isavailable with a hard court andgrass court sole unit.

This month Fila will appear as the official apparel andfootwear sponsors for The Aegon Championships at theQueens Club, featuring the world’s top male players.

Fila serves up boostfor young players

BERGHAUS has updated and improved itsExplorer boot range for summer 2009.The designs have been enhancedwith new developments and stylingand there are now three separate lines – the Ridge, Trek and Light, all available in men’s and women’s specific fit. The boots combine high quality leather with a Gore-Tex membrane to prevent water entry and are well cushioned for comfort on difficult terrain.The Explorer Trek is a classic fell walking boot with an ergonomic holding system to keep the foot in place for effective performance.The Explorer Light has been created for warmer climates offering grip andbreathability with lighter weight components.

THE Timberland Company haslaunched a new range of technicalfootwear that aims to combineperformance with eco-friendlycredentials for the first time.

The Mountain Athletics collection ismade up of styles suitable foradventure racing and trail runningand features soles made from arecycled ‘Green Rubber’ compound.

Designed for high impact, multi-sport activities, every style has an independent suspensionnetwork system, stability control frame and platformdifferentiation.

The All Mountain styles featureadded protection in the toe area,while the trail runners are morebreathable and flexible.

Performance teams up witheco-friendly in new range

Performance


By Louise Cordell

NEW British brand CÀRN haslaunched its first outdoor footwearcollection for 2009. The range hasbeen specially developed for the UKmarket and includes styles for onand off road running, walking,trekking and hill climbing. Richard Dean, founder and director,said: “The shoes were very muchdesigned with the British consumerin mind and are classic, easy to wearand fit for purpose. During our threeyears of research we found that a lot

of brands do everything they can topublicise the high technical angle.But while this is important, when wespoke to retailers we found that itwas the more traditional styles thatwere selling best. When we put thedesigns together we wanted to finda balance between the technicalperformance and everyday use, so allthe technology is concealed insidethe shoe – doing its job rather thandrawing attention.” Richard claims that although it is adifficult time to be launching a newproduct, they have found that the

outdoor market is still buoyant andoutdoor activities are actuallyincreasing in popularity. Their research also showed that thekind of outdoor footwear beingstocked by retailers has not changedmuch over the last few years, leavingthe way open for them to introducesomething new. He added: “Whilethe response to the product hasbeen fantastic, there is no doubt thatbuyers are being cautious. It is easyto understand because if theyalready have a successful outdoorrange on the wall, then taking on a

newproduct isa gamble,and thisis not thetime tobegamb-ling.However, manyother retailers believethat having a new product on display draws in the customers – so it can also work in our favour. ”

Designed with the British consumer in mind ...

THE day I thought I would wear apair of rocking thick soled, sporttrainers did not even enter my headuntil I decided to invest in a pair ofMBTs.I was assessed on my posture beforeeven walking out of the door and myinitial thoughts were, well I have notime to go to the gym so I will givethem a try. The information pack in the boxincluding the CD was veryinformative on how to wear themproperly and what results I couldexpect from wearing them on aregular basis, I also needed to knowif a previous knee operation I hadhad would be affected.I realised that MBT has an academyexpert Joshua Wies, chartered

physiotherapist and MBT Academydirector that could advise me and Iwas pleased to know on calling himand after a discussion that I wouldbe fine wearing my Chapa Sportstrainer.It did feel a little strange with therocking action of the sole and evenwithin an instant of putting these onI had no option but to stand upright,shoulders back and bottom in. I initially wore them in the office, Ithought this would get me used tothe stairs and get a general feel forthem, they were exceptionallycomfortable and very light, evenstood talking to someone my posturewas improved upon, although I didget some strange looks from peopleas they are not the most attractive

looking and look a little strange withthe rocker bottom. After wearing them for two months Ihave noticed a definite improvementin my posture whilst walking andstanding, they also seemed to havetoned my stomach and buttockmuscles, despite scepticism about

some of the claims made by this typeof footwear, trying it for myself hasconvinced me that the claims arecorrect. Well worth the investment.The facts:Unlike ordinary shoes, MBTSdistribute pressure equally across andalong the whole foot, with each stepwe take, pressure acts on the foot,MBTS distribute this load evenly,which prevents ailments that can becaused by the concentration ofpressure on individual points.Masai Barefoot Technology ineveryday use can train muscles, burncalories, and protect joints, all whileyou’re doing something else. Shopping, in the office, at home.MBTs act as training equipment,every step of the way.

Performance test: MBTs by Beverley Green, Out on a Limb sales manager


News

27

TRAVELHARBOUR has been workingwith the British Footwear Associationas preferred travel agent for severalyears, getting deals for clients in thefashion and footwear trade.These include flights, accommo-dation (and car hire) for the variousoverseas exhibitions they attend but

also long haul trips for sourcing andsales purposes. By utilising the latesttechnology, along with privateairfares and preferred hotelcontracts, the company aim to saveclients’ money and time. They arecurrently booking for Bread andButter, WSA, GDS and Micam.

Just the ticket for travel ...

By Cris Stephenson

I WAS struck by a comment Sir PhilipGreen made on Radio 4 recently. Looking at pressure on retailers to becompetitive in a rocky climate, hesaid that the supply chain iseverything. No one would doubt hisopinion, but there’s a lot to thatseemingly simple statement. In thesame programme Sandra Hallidaymentioned the importance of fastreaction to opportunity: in fashion,miss a trend and it’s gone forever. Putting the right product in the rightplace at the right time is alwaysimportant, but in a recession it’sabsolutely fundamental. Drivingefficiency into the supply chain, anddriving costs out, has to be a primefocus.I’m not going to preach aboutreverse logistics, cross-docking,consolidation and all those other bigdesirables. Most people knowelements like these could make adifference, but between every retailerand the ideal supply chain there isthe pain of change. And thatpreconceived misconception is

trapping retailers between a rock anda hard place. They need to change toremain competitive, but in adepressed market they can’t affordinterruption.But change we must. The winnerswill be the retailers who can change,and who do it rapidly. Twelve weeks’stock might simplify the logistics, butyou pay for it in flexibility as well asoverhead. And pushing the problemdown the chain to the supplier is atemporary fix at best: you can’t risksupplier relationships for short termgain. Brands like Jockey have beensmart enough to see theopportunities in fast change. Weworked with them to rationaliseseven warehouses into one – inseven weeks. Hard times demandhard decisions, but rapid changenow will ensure survival, bolsteringyour position throughout the difficultperiod and positioning you toemerge as a stronger, morecompetitive business.� Cris Stephenson is divisional managingdirector of TNT Fashion Group

‘Supply chain is everything’

News


With sales and footfall down further than ever, retailers are increasingly reluctant to get saddled with stock that just won’t sell. Out On A Limb talks to the brands and agents on the front line to find out how consumer research and a tailor-made offering can increase sales without increasing spend.

BUILDING long term relationshipsbetween brands and retailers is thebest way for both to succeed in the current economic climateaccording to industry expert DerekBowen.

Derek is northern European salesdirector for CAT, a brand which hasintroduced a new way of workingwith stores in order to maximisesales.

He said: “What we have done isdivide up our collection very clearlyby style, price points

and target consumers.

“We have also put a lot of resourcesinto getting to know the stores wesell to and finding out exactly what kinds of product work well for them.

“This means that when we approachretailers we can do so with apersonalised and tailored collection.

“We see it as our responsibility aswell as theirs to make sure they havethe right stock, and are not left withproducts that don’t sell.”

The brand offering has been splitinto four consumer types, ‘StyleSeeker’, ‘Open to Influence’,‘Function First’ and ‘Safety Required’.

This allows buyers to pick and mixwhat they take on, in order to

match their particular selectionof consumers and what they

think they are looking for.

The brand also spendtime

in the stores, observing consumersand price mixes, looking atdifferences between variousbranches around the country anddrawing conclusions from thefindings.

Derek added: “Our aim is to shareour business thinking and try andlink that in with theretailers’ consumersand business plans –and this has been verywell received.

“One retailer said to us– ‘You know moreabout business than wedo – you are very clearon what our business isabout’.”

The brand’s aim is to be inregular communication withretailers, rather than justtwice a year when new collections becomeavailable.

It has found that the processhas been well received

which in turn hasincreased trust, both inCAT and its advice.

Derek added: “Thisapproach shouldn’t

really be anything new ordifferent – all brands shouldunderstand the landscape they

are working in.

“People are encouraged by freshthinking and today’s market is allabout intervention versus risk.

“We have had to re-educate buyersabout what we have to offer –

and we do that byunderstanding theirbusinesses, meaning weare in the best possibleposition to compete forshelf space.

“Matching up the rightproduct and the rightdistribution always leadsto success.”

WHILE retailers face an increasinglytough market, brands and agentsshould be raising their game to helpincrease sales, according to Capriceagent Stephen Joseph.

Hard work and cooperation is theadvice from Stephen who hasworked for a footwear agent for thelast seven years.

He said: “Business has changed a lotbecause in the past there was adegree of blind loyalty and manyretailers would use a particular agentjust because they had always usedthem.

“But that is no longer the case, andit is the agents who work harder andoffer a better service that get thelion’s share of the budget.

“These days agents have to be morelike business advisors –understanding their price points and

who their market is, and presentingthem with what will work for them.

“Those who don’t adapt will notmake it through.”

Stephen has found that manyretailers are panicking because of thedownturn, and resorting to buyingcheaper and cheaper shoes.

However, this just means that theyare selling fewer units at a lowerprice - so profits are sliding furtherthan ever.

Instead, he has found that thesuccessful ones are taking on mid-range stock, meaning that they haveto sell fewer units to make a profit -which makes the best of the lowerfootfall many are experiencing.

He added: “Retailers are currentlyexperiencing a difficult time andadapting to that with a no nonsenseattitude.

“If a brand isn’t performing thenthey won’t be buying it in, they can’tafford to have any stock that isn’tpulling its weight.

“At the end of the day it is a

challenging time, but the strongbrands, agents and retailers willcome through. Those who aregreedy with their margins, whoaren’t proactive or who provide badservice will not.”

Stephen Joseph of Caprice

‘Brands and agents should be raising their game’

Far left: LegendaryRaw collection and,left, women’scollection

Forging links betweenbrands and retailers is key


Retail solutions and technology

29

Bringing testing services and support to the leather industryBLC offers testing services andsupport to all branches of the leatherindustry. To ensure compliance with legal andsocial requirements, and ultimatelybrand protection, BLC has created acomprehensive chemical and physicaltesting package for footwear testing. Footwear testing includesfingerprinting, chemical and physicaltesting. Fingerprinting is carried out on theleather components only, todetermine how the product shouldbe labelled.Chemical testing mostly consists ofthe restricted substance list which isbuilt into individual retailerspecifications.The restricted substance list includesroutine leather tests such as ChromeVI, PCP, Azo dyes, Formaldehyde, aswell as:

Heavy metals testing – in accordancewith EN71-3, which can be modifiedwhen working with adult footwear,including CPSC lead testing for theUS market.Phthalates – for soling materials, todetermine whether any of the sixbanned phthalates are present.

Dimethyl fumarate (DMF) testing –BLC offers DMF testing in leather,footwear, product or anti-mouldsachets. Products containing DMFare banned in Europe.Organotin compounds – althoughthese are only legislated against inwater systems and paints intended

for the maritime industry, theyshould also be tested for in allmaterials as a safety measure. Allergens – BLC can test for potentialallergens in leather and footwear.REACH – BLC can assist with anytesting, support or the REACHscreening process to meet therequirements of the REACHregulation.If a failure occurs BLC has the in-house knowledge and experience toidentify the reason behind the failureand make recommendations toresolve it. BLC also offers acomprehensive, technical andcommercially focused fit assessmentservice for both children’s and adultfootwear.

For further information visit:www.blcleathertech.com or contact:

[email protected].

MOVETECH UK (the new name forBritish Turntable) exhibits at the InStore Show for the very first time,demonstrating its distinctive positionas one of the UK’s leaders in PoP androtary display movement.Movetech UK’s comprehensivemovement portfolio solves manydisplay problems, not least in helpingto create cost-effective and eye-catching displays that can save onspace and increase sales. More than 100 standard options areavailable, from small batteryoperated pendulum and rotary PoPmovement to large carousels andrevolving stages, a range that is hardto beat. And with Movetech UK’s HGV access

turntablesspeedingup deliveryturnaroundtimes, andHovair airfilmtechnologyan integralpart of thewiderMovetechUK portfolio, the company can alsoprovide total turnkey movementsolutions for the retail industry.

More information is available from PhilChilds on: 01204 537680, e-mail:

[email protected] or from thewebsite at www.movetechuk.com/display.

Solving display problemsTOSHIBA Tec has introduced the newWILLPOS B20 modular terminal.It is designed to reduceenvironmental impact and perfect forretailers who wish to protect theirexisting IT investments, minimisedowntime and have a cost-efficientupgrade in the future.Providing flexibility and scalability tomeet even the largest retailer’s point-of-sale requirements, the WILLPOSB20 has been designed to include apowerful Intel Celeron M processor945GME resulting in a highly stablepoint-of-sale platform. This faster processing time not onlyimproves customer throughput, butguarantees a future-proofed solutionfor any potential changes in

applicationsoftwareplatforms.The superiorperformanceof theWILLPOSB20 enablesthe POS tohave thecapability ofa resilient server, removing the needfor a back-office PC. With front and back tool-less ‘slide-out’ components and fewer internalcables, servicing the WILLPOS B20 isquick and effortless.

For more information contact 0870 8907200or visit www.toshibatec-eu.co.uk

New terminal introduced

INDEPENDENT retailer Rachel Parkinhas launched a new website aimedat helping the industry tackle therecession.

The site, at www.retailrehab.co.uk, isfree to use and offers advice ongrowing sales, employment andbranding, as well as tips onmarketing and PR.

Rachel said: “At the end of last year,when everyone was panicking aboutthe recession, I started wonderingwhat could be done that would bepositive and useful in the currentclimate.

“I work as both a supplier and aretailer so I felt I could see thingsfrom both sides and felt that therewas a gap in the market for a sitethat offered practical advice.

“Independent retailers are part ofquite a fragmented industry andwhen you have a small business youhave to be an expert in everything,which is difficult.

“But the principles behind successare the same all over the sector - so Ithink people could learn a lot fromeach other. I wanted to provide aplace where people could share theirdifferent skills and pick up tips onthe things they don’t know so muchabout.”

The site already has over 500subscribers and has received apositive response from peoplethroughout the industry.

Downloads include tips oneverything from search engineoptimisation, dealing with staff, howto get free PR and how to use yourresources is the most effective way.

Rachel is also hoping to gathersubmissions from other experts inorder to provide a comprehensiveguide that can be used byindependent retailers of any size andexperience.

She added: “I think the most usefuladvice we can offer to people at the

moment is ‘don’t panic’. It isimportant to keep making the rightchoices and not allow yourself tobecome either complacent orparalysed by fear. In this kind ofsituation the game is raised, andeveryone needs to work harder tokeep up.

But this shouldn’t alarm retailers –they need to remember that there

are opportunities out there if theyare in a position to make the most ofthem - and hopefully this site willhelp them do that.”

Rachel now plans to launch anonline discussion forum as part ofthe site when retailers can talk toeach other, swap ideas on bestpractice and share their skills to helpkeep the sector afloat.

Website helps industry tackle the recession

FOOTWEAR TRAINING

ISSUE 52 APRIL/MAY 200930

TECHNOLOGY

TO ADVERTISECALL01226 734288

Date post:	22-Mar-2016
Category:	Documents
Upload:	script-media
View:	220 times
Download:	3 times

Out on a limb (Issue 53)

Documents