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    Amazon Rain Forest

    P e r u

    Peru

    OverviewIntroduction

    Lake Titicaca, which straddles Peru's border with Bolivia, is the highest navigable lake in theworldand one of the most beautiful. The Inca ruins of Machu Picchu, which would be

    stunning anywhere, are truly spectacular in their Andean setting, high above the UrubambaRiver. And Cusco, once the center of the Incan empire and now a vibrant gateway to Incan

    ruins, is also high in the Andes.

    Yet even at sea level, Peru can leave you breathless. With unspoiled beaches, coastal desert,deep canyons and dense Amazon jungle, its variety of natural wonders is astonishing.

    Then, there are the cultural treasures. The contrast between old and new runs throughout theland: Poncho-clad indigenous peoples walk their llamas through modern cities, past Spanish

    cathedrals built on the foundations of ancient Incan ruins. Giant, stylized designs were etchedin the earth by the Nazcaa great pre-Columbian civilization.

    Peru is where pre-Columbian culture reached its most graceful peak. Like the Parthenon in Greece or the Pyramids of Egypt, the Incan andpre-Incan ruins of Peru provide an unforgettable glimpse of the genius of a lost world.

    History

    Before the Incan empire, many civilizations flourished in Peru. The Moche culture (noted for exceptionally fine pottery), the Nazca culture(which made huge etchings in the desert) and the Chimu culture (with its large adobe cities) are but three examples. It is the Incas, however,whose civilization is best knowntheir empire, though short-lived, covered the South American Andes from modern-day Colombia to Chile.

    Their lands were held together by an extensive network of roads, traversed by imperial messengers bearing quipus, or knotted-string

    messages. The empire was incredibly skillful in its use of dry masonry, irrigation and terraces. The Incan citadel of Machu Picchumade oflarge stones interlocked like fingers with no mortar usedattests to the technical and aesthetic mastery of this Amerindian empire.

    All that came to an end when, in 1532, the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro arrived with a small but well-armed force, captured theemperor Atahualpa and began the destruction of a civilization. Today, Peruvians are ambivalent about their past: Pride in their Spanish andindigenous heritage mixes with shame over the sometimes brutal actions of their forefathers.

    After declaring independence from Spain in 1821, Peru enjoyed a short period of republican government, followed by nearly 160 years of

    "good" dictatorships alternating with corrupt tyrannies, ineffectual democratic administrations and sheer anarchy. Sporadic attacks byguerrilla groups continued into the late 1990s, despite the arrest of most of the leaders of the Shining Path, the most violent group. Recentyears have signaled a new era of stability, and while extreme poverty remains in parts of the country, the economy is growing at one of the

    fastest rates in the region.

    Outsider Alejandro Toledo was elected president in 2001, following the ignominious flight of Alberto Fujimori. Toledo struggled with lowapproval ratings and strikes despite pretty robust economic growth throughout his presidency. He was replaced in 2006 by former presidentAlan Garcia, who led Peru to hyperinflation and foreign capital flight during his first term in the 1980s. Peruvians accorded him a remarkable

    second chance, and he presided over a rapidly expanding economy, but not without criticisms of growing social unrest, environmentalmismanagement and, later, allegations of corruption. In 2011, Garcia was replaced by the current President of Peru, Ollanta Humala.

    Snapshot

    The chief attractions of Peru are Cusco and Machu Picchu, ecotourism jungle adventures, the Nazca Lines, Lake Titicaca, vast coastalarchaeological sites, bird-watching, world-class cuisine and friendly people.

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    Almost everyone will be impressed by what Peru has to offer. Outside of the few major cities and increasing amount of tourist areas, do notexpect deluxe accommodations, high standards of service or high levels of sanitation. Nevertheless, simple but comfortable hotels and

    surprisingly good restaurants are found throughout the country.

    Potpourri

    Lima's San Marcos University is one of the oldest in the New World, founded in 1551, 70 years before the Mayflowerlanded at PlymouthRock.

    Peru ranks among the highest places in the world in biodiversity, with 84 of the 104 known life zones on the planet found in the country.

    Peru is one of the countries in the world with the largest variety of orchids2,800 classified and as many as 3,000 unclassified.

    Lima's metropolitan area population accounts for close to one-third of the nation's total population.

    The mummy of a young Incan girl had lain frozen for five centuries before melting ice dislodged her from her summit location on MountAmpato and sent her down the mountain. Probably left there as a sacrificial offering, Juanita, as she was named, was the first female Inca

    mummy discovered in the Andes. She is now on display in the Museo Santuarios Andinos in Arequipa.

    Thor Heyerdahl, in his voyage of the Ra(an Egyptian reed ship), had the help of Titicaca's Uros peoplethe only people in the world with

    the requisite reed-working and boat-building skills. The explorer also believed that Peruvians were the first people to settle Polynesia.

    The traditional use of the coca leaf dates back at least 5,000 years. Chewing the coca leaf was once a privilege for Incan royalty. The

    Spaniards began to cultivate it and used it to stimulate their workers. Peru is one of the world's largest sources of coca leaves, and chewingcoca leaves is an integral part of highland Andean society. Even in cities, coca tea and candy are popular.

    Millions of years ago, the Amazon River drained into the Pacific through what is now Peru. Eons of continental drift and collision raised theAndes and reversed the course of the mighty river. Pink Amazon River dolphins are the most obviousand beautifulrelic of the great

    inland lake that formed when the Andes rose.

    Iquitos is so remote and the Andes such a formidable barrier that trade with Europe used to be far more economical than trade with Lima

    the Amazon River leads to Iquitos, but there are no roads connecting it with the rest of Peru. With air transportation, Iquitos now has goodcommunication with the rest of the country, but it remains the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by road.

    See & DoSightseeing

    Historic Sites

    Peru is considered the Egypt of the Americas for the sheer abundance of historical sites that are found in nearly every corner of the country.

    Most famously, there's the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu near Cusco, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a New World Wonder.

    Also in the Cusco area are hundreds of lesser-known Incan archaeological sites such as Choquequirao, Ollantaytambo and Pisac. On theshores of Lake Titicaca are the Sillustani stone towers built by the Aymaras, while the northern highlands are home to the Chachapoyan

    walled city of Kuelap and the Karijia sarcophagi.

    The coast of Peru is particularly rich in Pre-Incan ruins. The Nazca Lines 250 mi/400 km south of Lima are a 50-mi/80-km stretch of ancient

    geoglyphs etched into the desert by the Nazca culture between 400 BC and 650 BC. On the north coast in Trujillo is Chan Chan, the largestadobe city in the Americas, and the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna, two important Moche pyramids.

    Near Chiclayo is Tucume, a complex of 28 pyramids. Closer to Lima is Pachacamac, a pre-Inca ceremonial center, and Caral, which dates

    from 2600 BC and is considered to be one of the oldest cities in the Americas.

    An excavated royal burial site at Sipan exhibits Moche burial practices. A priest-warrior was buried with young women at his head and feet,older women and a dog at his side, and surrounded by water and food containers for the next life. Just above, a guard with a gilded copperhelmet and copper shield lay buriedhis feet cut off to prevent him from abandoning his post.

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    Museums

    The majority of artifacts that have been discovered in Peru's countless archaeological sites can be found in Lima's museums. Weavings

    from the Paracas culture, Incan mummies, Moche erotic pottery and colonial artwork can be seen in the Larco Archaeology Museum, GoldMuseum and the private Amano Museum. In Cusco there are several important collections of Incan and colonial artifacts including thosededicated to Pre-Columbian art and Catholic relics.

    Near Chiclayo, there's the world-class Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum, which holds artifacts from some of the most important archaeologicalfinds of the past century. A few miles/kilometers away in Ferrenafe is the Sican National Museum with its rare finds from the Lambayequeculture. More than a dozen museums are located in Arequipa, though none are more important than the Museo Santuarios Andinos, wherethe child mummy Juanita, found buried in ice on the Ampato volcano, rests.

    Nature

    Peru has more than 70 conservation zones that cover approximately 16% of the country's total territory. The largest of the national parks and

    reserves are in the eastern part of the country that lies within the Amazon Basin. In the north near Iquitos is the Pacaya Samiria, a massiveflood plain with the greatest number of species of fruits and fish in the world. In the southeast the Tambopata-Candamo National Reservenear Puerto Maldonado, and the even more remote Manu Biosphere Reserve are two of the most biodiverse places in South America,home to rare and endangered wildlife such as the giant river otter and the Andean spectacled bear.

    Dozens of other reserves are dotted across the highlands and on the desert coast. Colca and Cotahuasi canyons, the two deepest canyonsin the world, can be found in the south nearArequipa. The Paracas National Reserve and Islas Ballestas are home to countless marine bird and sea lion colonies, while several parks

    near Tumbes in the far north hold ecosystems found nowhere else in Peru, ranging from mangroves to equatorial dry forests.

    Religious Sites

    The Spanish mark on Peru is woven tightly to their installation of Catholicism in the country in the attempts to quell the Incas. Cusco's Plaza

    de Armas holds some of the more elaborate religious structures in the country. The Cathedral is built on the base of the Inca ViracochaPalace. Nearby, the church of Santo Domingo, believed to be one of the largest Roman Catholic churches in the world, was constructed ontop of the Incan Temple of the Sun, or Qoricancha, while the Jesuit La Compania is considered equally opulent.

    Lima's Spanish neoclassical San Francisco Monastery is the city's most visited religious site, known for the catacombs below it that hold the

    remains of more than 10,000 people. Arequipa's Santa Catalina Convent is a city within a city that dates from the late 16th century and was

    closed to the outside world until 1970.

    Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries

    While Peru's vineyards are not as well-known or developed as those in Chile or Argentina, the dry desert conditions that extend from Lima to

    the Chilean border are ideal for grape production. Wine is produced, but it is not nearly as common aspisco, Peru's national spirit, which isdistilled under strict appellation of origin rules. The Ica region is home to the most distilleries, but Lima, Chincha, Canete, Arequipa andTacna also feature numerous distilleries.

    Recreation

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    Peru

    http://www.incatrailperu.com

    Beaches

    There are plenty of beaches to choose from along Peru's long stretch of Pacific coastline. The country's coast is desert, however, so the

    beaches are not Caribbean-postcard perfect, nor are the waters all that warm because of the cold Humboldt current. As a rule, the farthernorth you travel, the warmer the water is. The stretch from Huanchaco to Tumbes, near the Ecuadorian border, is the only area where youcan swim comfortably for extended times outside of the summer months without a wet suit.

    Favorite beaches include Punta Sal (30 mi/50 km southwest of Tumbes)considered by many to be the best beach in PeruMancora (60

    mi/100 km south of Tumbes), Las Pocitas (65 mi/105 km south of Tumbes), Paita (30 mi/50 km west of Piura), Pimentel and Santa Rosa (9mi/14 km west of Chiclayo) and Huanchaco (7 mi/12 km west of Trujillo).

    In Lima, the beaches to the south enjoy the best reputation, although many can be dirty and polluted. Popular places include El Silencio,

    Senoritas, Caballeros, Punta Hermosa (a good place for ceviche and seafood restaurants), Punta Negra, San Bartolo, Santa Maria, Naplo,Pucusana (with beaches and a small fishing village) and Asia (where wealthy Lima residents have summer homes).

    Bicycling

    Peru has developed a mountain biking tourism industryand with the rugged terrain, where better? The best place to go for outfitters with

    decent bikes and knowledgeable guides is Huaraz. There is also good mountain biking out of Lima, Cusco, Arequipa and Huancayo.

    Bird WatchingPeru is a birder's paradise, with some 18.5% of all the bird species in the world and 45% of all neotropical birds. The country's variedgeography and topography combined with many wilderness areas means the number and variety of birds is more than anywhere exceptColombia. Even if you're not a keen bird-spotter back home, it's hard not to admire the huge condors in the high Andes or the flocks of

    brilliant scarlet macaws in the Amazon basin. Birding in Peru is possible year-round.

    Hiking & Walking

    Peru boasts a huge range of hiking possibilities, including the world-famous Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu. This was just one of the

    hundreds of "royal highways" that criss-crossed the Inca empire, all paved with stone. The remnants of these trails are ideal for hikes andwalks, and many are still in use today. In the north, the passes, lakes and mountain scenery of the Cordillera Blanca offer several beautifulcircuits to explore, such as Llanganuco and Santa Cruz.

    To the south of the Cordillera Blanca lies the Huayhuash rangea tougher proposition with higher altitudes and longer circuits. Farther north

    stretches the Chachapoyas region, a wonderful area for hiking amid cloud forests, villages and the impressive ruins of the Chachapoyanpeople. In southern Peru, there are several excellent treks close to Arequipa, in the Colca and Cotahuasi canyons, as well as around Cuscoand the Sacred Valley.

    The Inca Trail

    This 25-mi/40-km trail wends its way from the vicinity of Cusco to the citadel of Machu Picchu. It

    ranks among the most spectacular in the world, rewarding the fit traveler with a string ofimpressive Inca ruins, stunning mountain vistas and varied environments. The trek usually takesfour days. Only a few operators in Cusco are licensed to organize the hikes, and you mustcontract their servicesyou can't go independently.

    Packages include transportation to the trailhead (located beyond Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley) from Cusco, all meals, snacks anddrinks, all camping equipment, entry to the Machu Picchu Historical Sanctuary and a ticket for the four-hour train ride back to Cusco. Thetrek goes over two 13,120-ft/4,000-m passes, so it is wise to acclimate for a while in Cusco before the hike. The dry season runs roughly

    April-October, and the trail is busiest in July and August. The trail is closed for maintenance during the month of February.

    With the popularity of the Inca Trail, authorities have limited trek permits to 500 people total, including guides and porters, per day. Travelersmust book several months in advance (in peak season it's wise to book as much as six months early). If you don't book in time, or want totrek other routes, consider the four- to five-day trek to the ruin of Choquequirao, or the Salkantay trek, which is a longer and tougher route

    culminating in Machu Picchu. A shorter, two-day version of the Inca Trail, ending at Machu Picchu, passes through the ruins of Winay Wayna.

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    Horseback Riding

    Horses, mules and donkeys are part of everyday life in much of the Andean highlands, and there's a cowboy culture of sorts the length ofPeru. Most tourist towns and cities boast an operator organizing horseback riding trips. The most spectacular regions to consider a four-legged adventure are the Cordillera Blanca, Chachapoyas, Sacred Valley and the Colca Canyon.

    SurfingPeru is world-renowned as a surfing destination, with more than 30 top surfing beaches. The variety of waves and year-round action keepboth foreign and Peruvian fans happy. Waves up to 20 ft/6 m can be found there. The season runs approximately September-February in thenorth and March-December in the south. May is rated the best month around Lima. International competitions are held at Pico Alto and

    Punta Rocas, both south of Lima. The Mancora area, near the Ecuadorian border in the north, is the best coastal village that caters tosurfers.

    Other Options

    Peru's reputation as a white-water paradise is growing fast, with increasing numbers of paddlers heading to the country every year. There is

    easy access to a wide range of rivers running the gamut from pleasant Class II rides to heart-pounding Class V. Cusco is considered thebest starting point for many trips on both the Urubamba River and the mighty Apurimac. One can also embark on longer four- or five-dayexpeditions all the way down to the Amazon basin. Other popular centers include Lunahuana and Arequipa.

    Shopping

    Lima has a number of modern department stores (Ripley and Saga Fallabella in more than a dozen locations around the city), as well asmalls (Larcomar in Miraflores and Jockey Plaza in Surco), so if you have forgotten anything at home it will probably be quite easy to find

    there. Shop for alpaca-wool sweaters and rugs, gold, Incan walking sticks, miniature handmade statues, woven-straw items, ponchos, llamarugs, cotton and linen fabrics, blankets, silver, tapestries, wood and leather products, Andean oil paintings, silkscreen prints and pottery.

    The Indian Market (Mercado de los Indios) on Petit Thours Street in Miraflores is the best place in the capital to buy a variety of handicraftsfrom all over Peru. There are also good shops in the deluxe hotels. Bargaining is the rule in markets, but prices are fixed in hotel shops. You

    will get better-value items in the smaller towns.

    Be aware that no one can export artifacts or antiques. If you want to buy anything that looks remotely old, contact the Peruvian Institute ofCulture to verify that you can take it home with you. Stuffed animals, animal skins or handicrafts made with the feathers of certain birds are

    also illegal.

    Shopping Hours: Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, with some stores open as late as 9 pm. Most of the malls and markets are open on

    Sunday, but do check before making a long trip. Small local stores selling basics may open later, but might close for an hour or two atlunchtime.

    Security

    Personal Safety

    Most visits to Peru are trouble-free, but you should take precautions and be alert at all times. Most crime consists of pickpocketing andpurse snatching, so whenever possible, don't take a bag and keep items such as wallets in your front pockets, preferably zipped. If you musttake a bag, keep it close to you and don't leave it unattended, especially in airports and bus terminals. It is recommended that you don't go

    out alone late at night (after 10 pm), except by taxi.

    Be especially careful in Lima, the capital, and other urban areas popular with tourists, including Cusco, Arequipa, Puno and Juliaca.Potentially dangerous areas in Lima that you should avoid include discos and bars downtown; San Miguel (Avenida La Marina), Lince andespecially La Victoria; any place in Villa El Salvador after 6 pm; any place in Surquillo and the port of Callao (except the airport).

    You will notice the overwhelming number of taxis in Lima and the big cities; the taxi drivers will often honk their horns to pick up passengers,

    but do try to avoid using the ticos(a diminutive for a Daewoo make)they are unsafe as vehicles and are also the cheapest to rent.

    Whenever possible, you should have your hotel call for a taxi.

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    In Cusco, there have been rare incidences of choke-and-rob attacks against tourists, especially women traveling alone. Also be aware thatdespite the capture of the leaders of the Shining Path and Tupac Amaru, two guerrilla groups, a terrorist presence still exists in remotemountain and jungle areasespecially in central Peru in the Upper Huallaga, Aguaytia and Apurimac-Ene basins, where the terrorism is

    linked with drug trafficking. Tourists are unlikely to be affected by this.

    The major tourist sites are generally safe, but travelers who are planning to venture beyond major tourist areas should contact the LimaTourist Police or the South American Explorers (Enrique Palacios 956, Miraflores, Lima; phone 511-445-3306; http://www.saexplorers.org)

    upon arrival. Your embassy can provide an up-to-date list of places around the country considered dangerous and where official governmenttravel has been restricted.

    Tourists may register complaints on a national 24-hour hotline, provided by the official iPeru tourist information and assistance service. InLima, call 574-8000. Outside Lima, add the prefix (01) to this number.

    For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

    Health

    In larger cities, there are adequate medical and dental facilities (private facilities are generally better equipped than public hospitals orclinics). See your doctor about malaria suppressants if you're going to visit rural areas in the Amazon (chloroquine-resistant strains arepresent in the eastern provinces that border Brazil). Malaria is not present in Lima or in high-elevation areas such as Cusco, Machu Picchu

    and Lake Titicaca. Vaccinations for yellow fever, hepatitis and typhoid are also recommended but not required. Take along all prescription

    medicine needed for the trip.

    Cholera is no stranger to Peru. Fueled by poor sanitation, the disease is spread by contaminated water, raw seafood (ceviche) and

    unsanitary preparation of food. Except in the more deluxe establishments in major cities, sanitary conditions in restaurants can poseproblems for travelers. Most hot, freshly cooked food should be safe (especially if it's included on a package tour). You should, however,peel fresh fruit and raw vegetables before eating. In addition, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly, avoid local dairy products, and assumetap water and ice are unsafe (stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks). If you eat street food, make sure it is cooked in front of you.

    If you fly into high-altitude areas (such as Cusco), allow some time for your body to adjust. Some people need as much as three days. Youmay experience altitude sickness (nausea, headache, insomnia, dizziness, loss of appetite and general malaise), which can be serious.Take it easy, drink plenty of liquids, and avoid alcohol and smoking for the first few days; see a doctor if symptoms seem extreme or persist

    (you may have to return to a lower altitude).

    For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

    Facts

    Dos & Don'ts

    Do find some time to relax in Cusco's main plaza. It's an enjoyable place to sit and watch the world go by, with a backdrop of Incan andcolonial Spanish architecture, and beyond that, the Andes. But don't relax too muchthe plaza is also a hangout for pickpockets and petty

    thieves.

    Don't throw toilet paper down the toilet; use the trash can next to the seat.

    Do carry toilet paper with you. Many public places and restaurants don't provide it.

    Don't assume anyone speaks English or that raising your voice will help them understand your strange tongue.

    Do try to learn some Spanish words and use them whenever possible. You will always get a positive reaction from Peruvians if you try tospeak their language, and common courtesies such as greeting people upon entering an office, elevator or house are very important in

    Peruvian culture.

    Don't get into a taxi before negotiating the cost of the ride. Taxis in Peru don't have meters.

    Do expect to be kissed on the cheek by female Peruvians when they introduce themselves and when they say farewell.

    Don't allow yourself to be easily distracted by the action around you. Different tactics seem to go in and out of style among thieves, but their

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    main objective is to divert your attentionstaging a fight or accident, for exampleso they can make their move when you're focused on

    something else.

    Do keep your eye on your baggage. We should mention that one of our correspondents spent three months in Peru without any problems

    until departure at the airport, when he set his camera down for a moment. It was a moment too long.

    Don't expect to see the headhunter tribes in resplendent primitive glory. Tribe members are well aware of the fascination their tribes hold for

    tourists, and visits to tribal villages have become very commercial in many places. On our last trip, we came around the bend of a river a littletoo early and caught a fellow changing his swimming trunks for a grass skirt.

    Do consult your local camera store about how to take pictures where there's lots of glarea polarizing filter will improve your photography

    greatly. Also mention that you'll be at high altitudes, as well as in high humidity if you're bound for the jungle. (Take along a plastic bag if

    you're going to the Amazon region to keep moisture out of your camera, as well as small bags of silica gel.)

    Don't always count on getting a hot shower or hot tap water, even in hotels that advertise they have it. Electricity, used to heat water, issporadic in most medium-sized and small towns in Peru.

    Do take plenty of water with you wherever you go in the Andes. You can quickly become dehydrated at such high altitudes.

    Don't lose the white entry slip given to you by immigration when you enter the country, as you will need to hand it back when exiting.

    Do check, before leaving home, the number of days you are allowed to stay in Peru (for most tourists it is 90 days). Immigration officials

    might stamp 30 days unless you have requested otherwise.

    Don't carry your passport with you each day; keep it and your bank cards in a safe location, such as a hotel safe. Instead, carry photocopiesof your passport.

    Do take adapter plugs. Peru is a confusion of U.S.-style flat-pin plugs and European-style round-pin plugs. It's best to be prepared for both.

    Money

    Currency Exchange

    Peru's currency is the Nuevo Sol, available in bills of 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 nuevos soles. It has been relatively stable to the dollar in recent

    years, exchanging for about three soles to the dollar. When exchanging dollars, take crisp, new, untorn bills. Money changers and banks willrefuse to change even slightly damaged notes. Try to acquire small bills whenever changing moneythere seems to be a constant shortage

    of change in Peruvian cities.

    Don't accept bills that are torn or tapedno matter how slightlybecause almost no one will accept them: Counterfeiting is a problem in

    Peru. Check your bills by holding them up to a light. You should see a watermark and a very small strip that says Peru 50 or Peru 20depending on the denomination of the bill.

    It's best to pay in cash whenever possible. Restaurants and hotels often levy a service charge (about 6%) for processing a credit card. Also,you can bargain for discounts in cash, but rarely with plastic.

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    Taxes

    A value-added tax (VATcalled IGV in Peru) of 19% is added to all sales. You won't pay it for cash transactions in places such as markets

    and street stalls. Sales tax should be included by restaurants on the menus, but some add both sales tax and a 10% service charge to yourbill, so it's best to check if in doubt. (It's totally legalyou just don't want a 29% surprise.) Cheaper restaurants often don't bother adding

    anything.

    Hotels may also append sales and services charges to bills; foreign travelers can present a photocopy of their passports and the 19% IGVwill not be charged (first class and luxury hotels will often make the photocopy for you). Less expensive hotels may not bother charging theIGV.

    Airport departure taxes are included in the price of your ticket, so you will not have to pay an additional fee in the airport itself (unless a

    particular airline does not include the tax in the ticket price, which is unlikely).

    Tipping

    Most restaurants in Peru do not include a tip with the bill, nor do waiters expect a 15%-20% tip. In most restaurants Peruvians leave a small

    5% tip, though in fine dining restaurants in Lima, Arequipa and Cusco, a 10%-15% tip is becoming increasingly common. Peruvians ininexpensive restaurants almost never tip.

    Skycaps and bellboys get about 2 soles per bag. Leave housemaids about 2 soles-3 soles per night in first class hotels. Taxi drivers are not

    normally given a tip. Tour guides and crew (drivers, porters and the like) are tipped roughly 15 soles-50 soles per tourist per day for tourguides, depending on the quality of the tour, and the same amount divided among the crew.

    Weather

    There is no single climate in Peruthe deserts, jungles and mountains are each separately under the influence of different natural forces.

    Temperatures are fairly stable year-roundit's colder in the highlands and hot in the lowlands. The rainy season is October-April in the

    mountains, and most travelers go during the dry months that coincide with North American and European summer vacations. ManyPeruvians travel during this time as well, especially for the national holidays in late July, when prices can double.

    The dry months are by far the best for camping and climbing trips in the Andes. The heaviest rains in the highlands are January-April, and

    disruptions in bus traffic because of landslides can be severe especially in February and March.

    On the desert coast, it almost never rains but can be interminably cloudy April-December, especially on the central and south coasts. It'salways hot and humid along the Amazon River (it isa jungle, after all). Be sure to take a sweater (or something heavier) if you're going to

    Cusco and Machu Picchu. The best times to visit are May and September, missing the busiest tourist months and skirting the rainy season.But you can go year-round and have a wonderful time.

    What to Wear

    In Lima and on the coast, temperatures vary little and are balmy enough for a shirt or T-shirt and light pants in the day. At night, it's best tohave a lightweight sweater or jacket for the coastal breezes. In the Andes, you should take precautions against both the plummetingtemperatures at night and the high UV radiation during the day (long-sleeved shirts protect against sunburn better than T-shirts; also wear a

    sunhat and strong sunscreen). Fleeces are essential, as is a decent hat (wooly ones are available on every street corner). For the jungle,long sleeves and pants are recommended to fend off mosquitoes. Don't forget a comfortable pair of walking shoes.

    Business meetings require business suits, but they don't have to be conservatively colored. In general, the less scruffy you look, the betteryou will be treated. Women should dress modestly when entering churches, but otherwise only worry about modesty in more remote

    communities. Men who wear shorts away from the beach will stand out as foreigners.

    Communication

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    Telephone

    Cell phone use is widespread in Peru, having reached many rural areas far sooner than traditional land lines. In Lima, you can rent cell

    phones by the day, and they are inexpensive if you are planning on staying in Peru for more than a month. Cell phone numbers all begin with9.

    Public phones are very common in all towns and cities; in addition to the official-looking ones, you may find small boxes lurking in

    convenience stores. These public phones are either coin-operated or use prepaid cards that can be bought in almost any corner store. Thecards have a phone number and a code that you dial ininstructions are usually in Spanish. Every department in Peru has a separate two-

    digit area code prefix, with the exception of Lima, which uses a single digit (1). If you are calling from one department to another, this areacode is preceded by a single zero. You do not need to add this zero if calling Peru from abroad.

    Internet cafes often offer voice-over Internet calls, and you'll find small stores for making international calls. These are generally cheap and ofacceptable quality, and far, far cheaper than making calls from your hotel room.

    Internet Access

    Internet cafes cater to tourists and locals in Peru, so you should have no problem finding one. Internet access is widely available, even inremote areas; although the farther you are from a big city the slower the connections, in general. Costs are around 2 soles an hour, or less in

    major cities. Most hotels now provide Wi-Fi without a fee; however, some international chain hotels add a service charge. Some Internetcafes won't let laptop users connect directly to their networks, but most will. Wi-Fi is not common in public areas.

    Mail & Package Services

    Sending packets, postcards and letters from Peru is fairly safe as long as you're not in a hurry for the item to get to its destination. Postage

    times can be as much as two or three weeks to North America and Europe. If sending an item of value, it's best to use a courier service,either a local one or an international name such as DHL or FedEx. To send mail within Peru, the South American Explorers have a postalsystem for their members at the clubhouses in Lima and Cusco.

    Newspapers & Magazines

    The two most established newspapers in Peru are El Comercioand La Republica. Both have decent sections on national and internationalpolitics and events. El Comerciohas an excellent section about what's going on in Lima, including a special section on gastronomy.

    Rumbosmagazine explores travel, nature and culture in Peru and is published in English and Spanish. Rumboshas some beautiful

    photographic features.

    Transportation

    Jorge Chavez International Airport (LIM) is about 10 mi/16 km northwest of central Lima and has modern food courts and other amenities

    such as Internet capability. Even international air travelers headed to other destinations in Peru must, for the most part, fly into Lima andmake connections from there to other parts of the country

    Although the roads have much improved and the top bus companies assure a very comfortable and afforable ride, domestic flights are

    cheap and will save you time when traveling inside the country.

    A number of cruise lines call at Callao, a port city 7 mi/11 km from Lima. Riverboats ply the Amazon between Iquitos and Leticia, Colombia,

    and Tabatinga, Brazil. Intercity public buses are generally efficient and vary from comfortable "bus-camas" with seats that recline into bedsto overcrowded second-class buses. There are few rail networks in Peru, with regular services limited to the Cusco to Machu Picchu Pueblo(Aguas Calientes) line and the Cusco to Puno line. Less frequent departures run along the scenic railway line from Lima to Huancayo

    If your budget allows, hire a car and driver (we don't recommend renting without a driver, as the driving is nerve-rackingand be aware that

    only those older than age 21 can rent cars). Taxis can be hailed on the street, but it's safer to arrange one by phone. The fare should be

    determined prior to entering the cab.

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    Bus

    Buses are not allowed to enter Lima airport grounds, and to get to the closest stop, you must walk to the main road going toward the citycenter. This is dangerous and not advised.

    Car

    Car rental agencies are located in the Lima airport terminal.

    Taxi

    Most travelers and locals opt to get to and from the airport by taxis, which are reasonably priced and convenient. When departing the airport(after baggage claim), there is a prepaid taxi desk that charges 45 soles-75 solesper taxi, depending on where you want to go in the city.

    Walking a short distance outside of the prepaid taxi desk will take you to the outdoor taxi stand where cheaper rates are available.

    When heading to the airport, it's a good idea to call a taxi company rather taking a taxi off the street. The unmarked luxury taxis that waitoutside major hotels are also an option, although significantly more expensive.

    Events

    Calendar

    Even with the country's exceptional natural beauty, ancient Incan ruins and delicious regional cuisine, among Peru's greatest attractions is itsculture, in particular its cultural festivals. The country's year-round calendar of events and celebrations demonstrates its energy and zest forlife. A celebration is almost always going on somewhere in Peru. For significant events going on in the country, see http://www.peru.travel.

    The schedule of Peruvian festivals is based largely on the Roman Catholic liturgical calendar, which dates back to the country's indigenous

    roots in the highland villages and functions in conjunction with the agricultural harvest cycle.

    In addition to National Independence Days, or Fiestas Patrias, in July, other festivals include Inti Raymi in Cusco in June, the six-day NewYear's festival in Huancayo, the merriment of the sample-friendly Wine Festival in southern Inca, the International Spring Festival in lateSeptember in Trujillo, and the costume- and dancing-filled Puno Week near Lake Titicaca in November.

    L i m a , P e r u

    Lima, Peru

    Overview

    Introduction

    Lima, Peru, is a dynamic, vibrant city full of contrasts. Modern skyscrapers

    stand beside pre-Incan pyramids that cover entire city blocks. The City ofKings was formerly just a stopover en route to the tourist mecca of Cuscoand the Incan ruins of Machu Picchu, but visitors to Lima are now

    spending more and more time soaking up the cosmopolitan atmospherein Peru's capital city, where fine museums and world-class dining combine

    with thousands of years of history.

    Whether you are shopping in designer boutiques and posh malls, partying

    until dawn in a nightclub facing the Pacific, or sampling seafood in thecity's best cevicherias, there is something for almost everyone in Lima.

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    Colonial-style architecture is found throughout downtown Lima.

    Highlights

    SightsThe sights of Colonial Lima, including Barrio Chino (Chinatown) the ossuary, convent and architecture at the Iglesia y Convento de

    San Francisco; the changing of the guards at the Government Palace; the cliff-side bohemian neighborhood of Barranco.

    MuseumsPre-Columbian artifacts at the Museo Arqueologico Rafael Larco Herrera authentic Incan gold at the Museo Oro del Peru.

    Memorable MealsStunning pyramid views from Huaca Pucllana Restaurant Gaston Acurio's trendy criollo dishes at Panchita novo-

    Peruvian delicacies at Malabar.

    Late NightThe city's best nightclubs at Larcomar Shopping Center dinner and drinks at a pena(folk-music club) downtown or in

    Barranco.

    WalksFrom Barranco's main plaza to the Pacific through Colonial Lima the seaside maleconin Miraflores; Parque El Olivar in San

    Isidro.

    Especially for KidsLearning about Peruvian wildlife at Parque de las Leyendas marine animals on the Islas Palominos the beaches of

    La Costa Verde.

    History

    After the Spanish gained control of the Inca empire, they moved down from the Andes to build a capital on the coast: Lima was founded by

    Francisco Pizarro on 6 January 1535. At the time, small populations of native people were already living in fishing and farming settlementsin the area. They had only been recently conquered by the Incas, however, and so were indifferent to the arrival of the Spanish.

    The city became a Spanish capital in South America and one of the wealthiest cities on the continent. The nearby port of Callao became thepoint of export for Inca gold, Potosi silver and other goods that were being exploited in the Andes. Thus, it became a target for pirates, who

    sank dozens of Spanish galleons and frequently attacked the port. It's possible to see the remains of the defensive wall that Spaniards builtin hopes of protecting their treasure.

    Wide-scale trade stretched across the globe in the 18th century, and the city grew significantly. An earthquake in 1746 nearly destroyed thecity, but it was soon rebuilt using African slave labor. Growth was slowed after independence was declared in 1821, but increased

    dramatically several decades later when the influx of capital from the guano boom allowed the city to expand. (Guano is nitrate-rich seabird

    droppings used for fertilizer.) The boom ended with the War of the Pacific (1879-83), when Peru lost some nitrate-rich areas to Chile.

    The population ballooned in the 20th century as laborers moved down from the Andes to find work, setting up shanty towns around Lima,calledpueblos jovenes. During the 1980s and '90s, terrorist groups from the Andes made Lima one of their targets, and the city saw

    numerous small bombings, until the major terrorist leaders were captured in 1992. The eradication of terrorism in the mid-1990s culminatedwith scandals involving Vladimiro Montesinos, the Peruvian chief of intelligence; President Alberto Fujimori fled the country to Japan beforecriminal charges could be brought against him.

    In 2001, Alejandro Toledo was the first indigenous person to be elected president in Peru (or any Andean nation). His term was

    economically unpopular, and in 2006 conservative Alan Garcia, whose first term in office in the 1980s was disastrous, followed him. Hismore recent term was far more successful and the economy expanded rapidly. However, social conflicts resulting in several clashesbetween indigenous protestors and security forces marred his presidency.

    In 2011, Ollanta Moises Humala Tasso, a center-left candidate and a former military officer, replaced Garcia, winning a run-off vote against

    his opponent, Keiko Fujimori, the daughter of the disgraced and now imprisoned former president. Humala has promised social reforms tobalance the economic development and foreign investment, but concerns remain over land rights and sustainability and he faces detractors

    and protestors who believe he is merely following the path of Alan Garcia.

    Potpourri

    Lima's coastline is often called La Costa Verde, or The Green Coast, because of the vegetation that grows along the sides of the oceanfront

    cliffs.

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    Plazuela de la Independencia (Callao)

    Lima, Peru

    Lima sees little annual rainfall. The only precipitation comes from a heavy mist, called garua, that covers the city for much of the year.

    Lima's newspaper,El Peruano, is the oldest Latin American newspaper still in existence. It was founded in 1825 by Simon Bolivar.

    The 1919 census tallied 173,000 inhabitants in the metropolitan area of Peru's capital. Less than a century later, the number was greaterthan 8 million.

    Chinese immigrants began arriving in the mid-19th century, and Lima's Chinatown, although modest, is the biggest in South America.

    See & Do

    Sightseeing

    Lima's downtown, the colonial center, is home to the most interesting sites in the metropolitan area, and was named a UNESCO WorldHeritage site in 1991. Much of the center has been renovated to its former glory after years of neglect.

    The heart of Colonial Lima is the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, the government center since 1535. There you will find the Palacio deGobierno (Presidential Palace), the Archbishop's Palace (notice the ornate balconies) and a stunning central bronze fountain.

    Also bordering the plaza is the city cathedral, which holds the remains of Francisco Pizarro, the city's founder. Several other churches in the

    neighborhood are also worth a visit, such as the baroque Church of San Francisco, with beautiful hand-carved ceilings and extensive

    catacombs, and La Merced, the site of the first Mass in Lima. The nearby Barrio Chino, or Chinatown, merits a visit during lunchtime.

    History buffs have more than their share of sights to choose from. Pre-Colombian pyramids such as Huaca Pucllana sit a few blocks from

    hotels in Miraflores and San Isidro. Centuries-old churches and colonial palaces dot the downtown area, and the Spanish fort Real Felipelines the seafront of Callao. Pre-Colombian artifactssuch as gold, textiles, weapons and the always-crowd-pleasing erotic pottery

    collectioncan be found in Lima's many museums.

    Several charming neighborhoods are good places to stroll, people-watch or grab a bite to eat. Head to Barranco and make your way from

    the plaza past colonial mansions and down an attractive stone promenade to the Pacific, passing under the famous Puente de los Suspiros,or Bridge of Sighs, along the way.

    Lima's green spaces are full of activity. Parque El Olivar, an olive grove planted by the Spanish, is a nice place to bird-watch or just relax.The larger and more active Parque de la Exposicion , which is downtown, is home to several good museums, weekly craft and food fairs, a

    small pond with paddleboats, a lighted fountain circuit, and numerous pavilions and theaters that play host to frequent events.

    Lima's other sights include ancient pyramids, dramatic coastal cliffs and world-class museums. Most places can be seen on action-packedday tours, although many visitors to Lima will prefer to take their time and explore just one or two a day. There is more than enough to keepyou busy for months on end.

    Historic Sites

    Fortaleza Real Felipe

    This Spanish-built pentagonal-shaped fortress was erected to prevent pirate attacks against

    Spanish galleons that departed Lima's main port. Later, the fort was used in both the War ofIndependence and the War of the Pacific against Chile. The fort is still in use by Peru's Navy,and a military museum, Museo del Ejercito, occupies much of the space. Several rooms with

    war and military artifacts can be toured (with a Spanish-speaking military guide), and there are significant displays of uniforms from

    throughout Peru's history as well as guns, cannons, paintings of important military figures and jail cells. Visitors can walk on the top of thewalls for great views of Callao and the Pacific.

    Daily 9 am-2 pm. Entry is only with a military guide (included in fee) and the tour takes two hours. 12 soles adults.

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    Ave. Bolivar 1515 (Pueblo Libre)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-461-1312

    http://www.museolarco.org

    Plaza Bolivar (Pueblo Libre)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-463-5070

    http://museonacional.perucultural.org.pe

    Paseo Colon 125 (downtown)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-204-0000

    http://mali.pe

    Ave. Javier Prado Este 2465 (San Borja)

    Lima, Peru 15076

    General Borgono Cuadra 8, Miraflores

    (Miraflores)

    Lima, Peru 15074

    Phone:1-617-7138

    http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe

    Huaca Pucllana Pyramid

    This fifth-century pyramid sits near skyscrapers and residential buildings in the heart of

    Miraflores. The adobe structure has served as a commercial, political and ceremonial center forseveral civilizations over the past 1,500 years. Mummies from the Lima and Wari cultures havebeen found during excavations of the site. One of the top restaurants in Lima, also called Huaca

    Pucllana, can be found adjacent to the site.

    Monday and Wednesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 12 soles adults.

    Museums

    Museo Arqueologico Rafael Larco Herrera

    This stunning collection of pre-Columbian artifacts (mainly ceramics) is one of the best in theworld. The 45,000 pieces chronicle more than 4,000 years of Peruvian history and touch uponevery major civilization to inhabit the country, including the Inca, Moche, Nazca, Paracas and

    Chimu. The museum's setting is equally impressive in an 18th-century mansion that was builtupon a seventh-century pyramid. A wing of the museum is dedicated to a collection of eroticpottery that shows pre-Colombian people, gods and animals in suggestive and sometimes

    graphic poses.

    Daily 9 am-10 pm. Adults 30 soles, seniors 25 soles, children 15 soles.

    Museo de Antropologia, Arqueologia y Historia del Peru

    One of the most underrated museums in Lima, the Museum of Anthropology, Archeology andHistory of Peru holds some of the most unique pieces from Peru's extensive history. It's locatedin a restored Republican mansion where liberators Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martin

    lived. The permanent collection ranges from metals, musical instruments, and Republican andcolonial art to the Raimondi Stela and the Tello Obelisk. Conferences, lectures, courses,workshops, theater performances and films are frequently held at the museum.

    Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 9 am-4 pm. Adults 12 soles, children 3.50 soles.

    Museo de Arte de Lima

    This sprawling, renovated art museum is located in the Parque de la Cultura. Its vast collection

    is composed of colonial furnishings, pre-Columbian ceramics and textiles, religious paintingsfrom the colonial period, and modern sculptures, paintings and photography. There is alsoplenty of space dedicated to rotating exhibitions.

    Tuesday-Friday and Sunday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Adults 12 soles; seniors,

    students and children 4 soles; 3 soles per person for a guide.

    Museo de la Nacion

    This multilevel museum is one of the largest in the country, and holds an array of artifacts andmodels spanning Peru's complete history, from pre-Columbian times to the modern era. Thehistory of pre-Columbian groups is well accounted for in this museum with ceramics, textiles,

    military objects, diagrams, and an assortment of scale models of Inca and pre-Inca pyramids. Achronological order to the displays, with signs in both English and Spanish, helps visitors grasp the vast history of the country. A movingexhibit called Yuyanapaq(meaning "Remember" in the Quechua language) explains the civil war of the 1980s, which killed 80,000 people,

    mainly poor peasants. There is no better place to start your understanding of the history of Peru. In addition, the National SymphonyOrchestra presents concerts there on Sunday at 11:30 am during the winter.

    Daily except Monday 9 am-6 pm. Free admission.

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    Alonso de Molina 1100 (Surco)

    Lima, Peru 15023

    Phone:1-345-1292

    http://www.museoroperu.com.pe

    Lima, Peru

    http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/500

    Lima, Peru

    http://www.sanisidrolima.com

    Museo Oro del Peru

    The Gold Museum of Peru is perhaps the world's best after the gold museum in Bogota,

    Colombia. This basement museum in the posh district of Surco features an assortment of pre-Columbian gold artifacts, ceremonial objects and a few mummies from the various cultures thatinhabited Peru and other South American countries, including the Inca, Chimu, Moche and

    Wari. Admission to the fascinating ground-floor weapons museum is included in the ticket

    price. It houses weapons and war objects from many countries and is the world's largest small-arms collection. Several small jewelers, an alpaca clothing shop and a small cafe are also

    located on-site. A 2001 investigation determined that more than 80% of the collection in the Museo Oro was fake, but the museum nowclaims that the bad pieces have been replaced and stands by the authenticity of the entire collection.

    Daily 10:30 am-6 pm. 33 soles adults.

    Neighborhoods & Districts

    Barranco

    Lima's artist and bohemian quarter, located just south of Miraflores, is one of the most fascinating districts in the city and seems to be in aworld of its own. Barranco, which means "cliffs," was named because of the cliffs where it sits overlooking the Pacific. It is dominated by

    enormous colonial mansions built by Lima's elite in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, many writers, artists and celebrities live in the

    district, which has seen a revival in recent years. The bestpenasand many great nightclubs, art galleries, restaurants, cafes and boutiquescan be found there. Most tourists begin their visit at Barranco's main plaza, which is the hub of activity. From there, walk down the attractive

    promenade leading to the Pacific, where stunning views can be had from the restaurants and cafes that line the surrounding cliff sides.Spanning the promenade, the Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs, is the famous wooden bridge sung about by criollo singerChabuca Grande, where young couples walk across holding hands.

    Colonial Lima

    A UNESCO World Heritage site, Colonial Lima is one of the most interesting parts of the city

    and the one place in Lima that nearly every visitor spends a day touring. It is full of centuries-oldchurches that rival anything in Europe, colonial mansions and large plazas surrounded byimpressive architecture. The area centers on the Plaza Mayor, or Plaza de Armas, a wide

    square surrounded by many of the most important buildings in the city, such as the baroque city cathedral, Archbishop's Palace and theGovernment Palace. Many other churches, colonial buildings and sights, including the Barrio Chino, sit within this district. Most localsconsider Colonial Lima the area between the Plaza San Martin and the Rio Rimac, although technically it is just a small grid around the

    Plaza.

    Miraflores

    Although Colonial Lima is traditionally the political center of the city, the commercial, business and entertainment center is the seaside

    suburb of Miraflores. The district is Lima's tourist epicenter and home to the best restaurants, clubs, shopping and the majority of hotels.Most visitors frequent the area from Parque Kennedy, which is surrounded by shops and restaurants, to Larcomar Shopping Center thatfaces the Pacific.

    San Isidro

    North of Miraflores, this upscale residential district is also home to Lima's most exclusive hotels

    and restaurants oriented at business travelers and upmarket tour groups. A pleasant malecon

    with walking paths faces the Pacific, while the center of the district is home to Parque El Olivar,a centuries-old olive grove that is one of the most popular parks in all of Lima.

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    Paseo Colon, Avenida Wilson, Paseo de

    la Republica and Avenida 28 de Julio

    (downtown)Lima, Peru

    San Isidro

    Lima, Peru

    Plaza Mayor (downtown)

    Lima, Peru

    http://arzobispadodelima.org

    Jr. de la Union 621 (Historic City Center)

    Lima, Peru 15001

    Plaza San Francisco (downtown)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-426-7377

    http://www.museocatacumbas.com

    Parks & Gardens

    Parque de la Exhibicion

    This wide expanse of green space adjacent to downtown is Lima's answer to New York City'sCentral Park. Built in 1872 and sometimes called Parque de la Cultura, it features gorgeousVictorian and Byzantine architecture, a small pond with paddleboats, fountains, the Museo de

    Arte (residing in the former Exhibition Palace), numerous pavilions and stages, benches,walking paths and roving vendors. The site is home to weekly fairs and festivals, oftenshowcasing crafts and foods from other parts of Peru. There is a permanent food court in the

    southeastern corner of the park.

    Free.

    Parque El Olivar

    Many consider this popular bird-watching spot the most pleasant park in Lima. Olive trees

    planted by the Spanish about the time of the city's founding shade a maze of walking paths thatweave in and out of Lima's most exclusive residential district and the city's business capital.Legend has it that one of Lima's patron saints, San Martin de Porras, planted the original trees

    from three small branches. Luxurious hotels and residential towers, fine-dining restaurants, chic cafes and shopping boutiques all border the

    park. The park is a popular spot for newlyweds to have their wedding photos taken.

    Free.

    Religious Sites

    Cathedral of Lima

    Although the first stone of the first manifestation of this cathedral was laid by Spanish

    conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535, the structure seen today is hardly original. It wasdestroyed or badly damaged by numerous earthquakes over the years. The third construction,taken on through much of the 17th century, went with a Gothic style after losing many vaults intemblors. Pizarro's tomb is found there. The church hosts Mass on Saturday at 9 am and

    Sunday at 11 am. The cathedral's museum features a variety of artwork from the archbishops' and private collections. Multilingual guides are

    available.

    Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm. 10 soles adults.

    Church of La Merced

    The original wooden structure, erected in 1536, was replaced by the 1680 Baroque-stylebasilica seen today. Within are lovely cloisters and a small museum in the sacristy that contains

    some religious artwork. Religious pilgrims go to see the cross of the Venerable Padre Urraca.

    Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-noon and 5-8 pm; museum is open Monday-Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm and 2-5:30 pm. Admission to themuseum is 6 soles.

    Iglesia y Convento de San FranciscoThe Church and Convent of San Francisco, built in 1674, is a UNESCO Cultural World Heritagesite and one of the most visited sights in all of Peru. The baroque church is decorated withSevillian tiles and carved mudejarceilings, but the main interest lies with the catacombs

    beneath the church. The bones of more than 25,000 people from Lima's early days are believedto be buried there, and many can still be seen laid out in bizarre designs. Tours of the museumlast approximately an hour and can be given in English.

    Daily 9:30 am-5:45 pm. Museum admission adults 7 soles, students 3.50 soles, children 1 sol.

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    Ave. Arequipa 4960, Miraflores

    Lima, Peru 15074

    Phone:1-226-8530

    http://www.islaspalomino.com

    Ave. Las Leyendas 580 (San Miguel)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-717-9878

    http://www.leyendas.gob.pe

    Ave. Las Torres, Ate Vitarte

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-356-3141

    http://www.zoohuachipa.com.pe

    Zoos & Wildlife

    Islas Palominos

    The Islas Palominos are a group of small rocky islands just off the coast of Callao that are amarine reserve and the site of a notorious prison. Boat tours leave Callao almost daily in thesummer and take you to see colonies of sea lions and marine birds. Occasionally there are

    boobies and Humboldt penguins. Some tour operators allow you to swim with hundreds of sealions. Dolphins can also be seen en route to the islands.

    US$48 adults.

    Parque de las Leyendas

    Lima's main zoo is home to animals from across the country, hence its slogan "Todo el Peru ensolo un lugar" (All of Peru in just one place). Many visitors limit their sightseeing to the touristhubs of Lima and Cusco and therefore completely miss the wildlife of one of the most

    biologically diverse countries in the world. The Parque de las Leyendas helps make up for this,as you can see Amazonian creatures such as giant river otters, spectacled bears and jaguars,as well as the typical lions, elephants and giraffes. Facilities are not as appealing as those in

    North America and Europe, but they are still relatively modern.

    Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. 10 soles general admission.

    Parque Zoologico Huachipa

    Combining both international and indigenous animals, the second of Lima's zoos containsmore than 300 species along with gardens full of plant species. The train ride around the park isnice for kids, and there is a small lagoon for a boat trip. There is a restaurant on-site, or you can

    pack food to carry into the picnic area.

    Daily 9 am-5:30 pm. Adults 12 soles, children 6 soles.

    Recreation

    Straddling mountains, desert and coast, Lima has diverse recreational offerings. Although the beaches are polluted and the water cold,surfing and sunbathing are still quite popular. Some beautiful biking and walking trails can also be found in the hills and on the coast, and a

    quality golf course is right in the middle of the city. Horseback riding around the pre-Columbian city of Pachacamac is also possible, as isparagliding over Lima and the ocean.

    Beaches

    La Costa Verde

    The Green Coast is a long stretch of beaches running between the districts of Magdalena and Chorrillos that is populated with seafoodshacks, health clubs and restaurants. The water is polluted, but during the summer months, the beaches are filled with tens of thousands of

    locals swimming, surfing, drinking, playing volleyball, jogging and sunbathing. Wealthy Limenos head to the beaches farther south, whereposh beach houses and private beaches dominate the coastline.

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    Punta Sal 506 (no sign)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-255-7607

    http://www.perubike.com

    Carretera Central Km. 14 Valle Santa

    Clara, Ate Vitarte

    Lima, Peru

    Mamacona (Pachacamac)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:519-7534-9004http://www.cabalgatas.com.pe

    Calle Bolivar 150, Miraflores

    Lima, Peru 15074

    Phone:1-445-3172

    http://www.biketoursoflima.com

    Ave. Camino Real 770 (San Isidro)Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-277-7090

    http://www.limagolfclub.org.pe

    Bicycling

    Bike Tours of Lima

    Rent a bike on your own or take a tour with this young group of guides who share their insiderbike routes. The half-day tours (two-person minimum) take in urban areas around the city, suchas Lima's historic districts or paths along the Costa Verde.

    Peru Bike

    One of the country's leading bike-tour operators uses top-quality equipment and well-qualifiedguides. Trips from Lima to Pachacamac are the most frequent, but they also take visitors to

    places in the near Andes, such as Olleros and Jauja, as well as Ica and Chachapoyas. Tripsvary by distance and skill level, and proper safety equipment is supplied. It can also help planyour complete biking trip to Peru.

    Steep discounts for groups of four or more.

    Golf

    Granja Azul Golf and Country Club

    The only public course in Lima, this nine-hole course is quite a challenge with a lot of tight shots,

    varying terrain and hazards. Service is professional, and the course is nicely maintained.Caddies are knowledgeable and very helpful. Other facilities include a putting green and drivingrange.

    Rates vary.

    Lima Golf Club

    This private golf course is the best course in all of Lima and can be accessed with a member orby guests of the Sonesta El Olivar Country Club. The 18-hole, par-72 course is one of the most

    prestigious in Latin America and comparable to top courses in North America. A pool, tennisand squash courts, gym, restaurant and snack bar are also on-site.

    Monday-Friday 6 am-9:30 pm, Saturday 7 am-4 pm, Sunday 7 am-3 pm.

    Horseback Riding

    Cabalgatas Peru

    This established horseback-riding agency offers tours throughout Lima and Peru. The mostcommon trip takes visitors across the pre-Columbian pyramid complex of Pachacamac southof Lima. The well-cared-for Peruvian Paso horses are known worldwide for their unique trot.

    The company also offers frequent trips on the beaches south of Lima and longer tours in theAndes.

    Prices vary.

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    Ave. Defensores del Morro 175

    (Chorillos)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-251-6231

    http://www.perudivers.com

    Ave. El Reducto 816, Apt. 803

    (Miraflores)Lima, Peru

    Phone:1-444-5004

    http://www.perufly.com

    Ave. Conquistadores 805 (San Isidro)

    Lima, Peru 15073

    Phone:1-221-1548

    http://www.aquasport.pe

    Ave. La Paz 1646, Oficina 102

    (Miraflores)

    Lima, Peru 15087

    Phone:1-243-4830

    http://www.olasperu.com

    Escuela de Surf (next to Rosa Nautica

    Restaurant at Barranquito and Makaja)

    Lima, Peru

    Phone:519-9765-4166

    http://www.pukanasurf.com

    Scuba & Snorkeling

    AquaSport

    Although there are no reefs along the coast and the water is cold, divers can still enjoy a wreckdive, a wall dive at Pucusana, and diving with sea lions. AquaSport rents all equipment and runsday trips. The outfitter also offers a variety of land-based activities such as ATV rentals.

    Peru Divers

    Although the Pacific waters near Lima tend to be cold and have mediocre visibility, theopportunity to dive with sea lions up close can't be beat. Lucho Rodriguez has more than 20

    years' experience in diving and is a PADI instructor and divemaster. He'll take you to the IslasPalominos to dive with sea lions, as well as Ancon north of Lima or Pucusana Bay and IslasParacas to the south to see fish. Certification courses, equipment sales, rentals, repairs and

    diving trips are arranged.

    Prices vary.

    Surfing

    Olas Peru Surf School

    Olas Peru gives lessons of various levels to students of all ages. The highly respected schoolhas been around for more than a decade and has received an International Certificate of theAustralian Coaching Council. Prices are quite reasonable by international standards, and

    lessons can be arranged on a seasonal, weekly or daily basis. Courses are taught mainly onCosta Verde in Lima or occasionally elsewhere.

    Pukana Surf School

    Located just a short walking distance from Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, this is one of the best

    options for learning to surf in Lima. Lessons range from beginner to advanced levels and canbe taken in groups or privately one-on-one. Lessons are generally at Barranquito Beach, butday trips can be organized to other locations. Equipment rental is also available.

    Other Options

    Peru Fly

    Lima is one of the world's leading paragliding spots, and the coast is lined with options forairborne daredevils who like floating at levels of 656 ft/200 m and higher. Peru Fly instructorsand other aficionados meet at Parque Raimondi, located on the maleconin the district of

    Miraflores, just north of the Parque del Amor. There they launch into the westward wind thattakes them above the city's skyscrapers and the Costa Verde beaches. Peru Fly also offerskite-surfing and kite-boarding.

    Daily 11 am-6 pm.

    Nightlife

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    Lima has a vibrant nightlife scene that spreads to almost every area of town. Nonstop partying goes on until the wee hours of the morning,but don't expect anyone else to be there if you show up before midnight.

    Most tourists will stick to the large clubs and trendy bars in the tourist district of Miraflores, particularly those in Larcomar Shopping Centerand near Parque Kennedy. Miraflores is also home to a smattering of popular expat bars.

    The Bohemian quarter of Barranco has some of the most traditional and unique nightlife in the city. Penas(music houses) and one of the

    densest bar strips in the city can be found on the edges of Barranco's main plaza. Tourists are discovering this essential Limeno experienceand, in some places, outnumber the locals.

    Downtown nightlife, however, is limited to a few seedy clubs and gay bars, and the area can be quite dangerous at night.

    Performing Arts

    Lima doesn't have the performance art of larger Latin American cities such as Buenos Aires, but it does have its fair share of outlets. The

    stylish, grand old classic theaters, such as Teatro Segura, are centered downtown, while smaller, trendier and more avant-garde places,such as the Centro Cultural PUCP and Instituto Cultural Peruano Norteamericano (ICPNA), can be found in Miraflores, San Isidro andBarranco.

    Lima was left without its major venue when the Municipal Theater burned down in 2000, but it reopened in 2010 after a major renovation. In

    that time several other venues stepped up to take its place, although none is quite like the Municipal.

    Penas, or folkloric music houses common in Peru, are located throughout Lima and are favorites of foreign visitors. The largest aredowntown and in Miraflores, but the smaller, more authentic ones are in the Barranco district. Many include a buffet dinner and lots ofdrinking, which often leads to the audience climbing onstage.

    Lima has about 30 cinemas, some of which are of poor quality.

    Spectator Sports

    Bull-fighting aficionados should note that Lima hosts a festival on Sunday throughout October and November. Other popular sports in Lima

    include soccer and horse racing. All have major venues in the city.

    SecurityEtiquette

    Peru is an almost entirely Catholic country and is highly conservative on many issues, although Lima is quite cosmopolitan and much moreliberal than the rest of the country. Public displays of affection between homosexuals are frowned upon, despite Lima's vibrant gay scene.

    On the other hand, backslapping hugs (abrazos) are common between men and air kisses are frequent between women or women and

    men.

    When interacting with Peruvians, it is not wise to bring up politics or government. Talking about the War of the Pacific with Chile or howmuch you love neighboring nations is also taboo.

    If invited into someone's home, you should always take a small gift, such as a bottle of wine.

    Politeness is important to Peruvians. Begin every interaction with a polite handshake and buenos diasor buenas tardes, even if you don'tspeak any more Spanish than that.

    The title senorais intended for older or married women and might draw a dirty look when applied to a young woman. Use senoritain thatcase.

    Dress politely when visiting holy sites such as churches. Women should not wear shorts or dresses cut above the knee, and T-shirts andshorts are frowned upon for the men. Otherwise, fashion is relaxed enough for shorts and miniskirts in places such as Lima or in the Amazon

    region.

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    Personal space is a bit shortened in Peruvian culture, so don't be put off by people standing a bit closer than you are used to in queues or inother public spaces.

    If you are meeting a Peruvian at a designated time, don't be surprised if they are as much as a half an hour late.

    Personal Safety

    Outside of Miraflores and San Isidro, visitors to Lima should not walk alone at night or take solo taxi cabs. This is especially true ofdowntown Lima, which is quite dangerous and impoverished despite significant restoration. Visitors should stick to well-lit streets andshould not take taxis off the street, but rather call them ahead. Hotel taxis are generally the safest, although also the most expensive.

    Don't flash your expensive digital camera or jewelry, and always keep an eye on your belongings. In crowded markets, beware of

    pickpockets, bag slashers, or even bold groups of bag snatchers. Always be aware of your surroundings.

    Health

    Most tourist areas in Lima are as safe and clean as any North American city, although some precautions should be taken. The tap water is

    never safe to drink. Bottled water is recommended and is served exclusively in restaurants. Food is safe in most instances, although someforeigners have gotten sick after eating at street stalls and small local restaurants. Avoid ice, salads, fruit juices made with unboiled water,and raw fruits and vegetables in these places. Most tourist-oriented restaurants are safe.

    Visitors to Lima have little to watch out for. The temperature is mild, poisonous plants and dangerous wildlife are nonexistent, and tourist-oriented locations are generally quite clean. The most common occurrence is a mild case of traveler's diarrhea.

    No vaccinations are required to visit Lima, but if you intend to visit Amazon regions, you may want to get up-to-date advice from your doctorbefore you go. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) recommends hepatitis A and typhoid shots.

    You can obtain a list of English-speaking Lima doctors from your embassy or hotel. In an emergency, try calling the Clinica Anglo-

    Americana, which has English-speaking staff and is open 24 hours. Alfredo Salazar 350 (San Isidro) Lima. Phone 511-712-3000 or 511-616-8900. http://www.angloamericana.com.pe.

    Facts

    Dos & Don'tsDo try ceviche. The combination of raw fish and seafood marinated in lime juice, onions and chilies is said to cure hangovers and is quite

    delicious.

    Don't talk about how much you like Chile. Peruvians are very proud of their country and are especially standoffish about Chile, whichdefeated Peru in the War of the Pacific more than a century ago.

    Do try to speak Spanish. Locals appreciate foreigners who make even a bad attempt.

    Don't belch after a meal (or any time). It is considered the worst possible taste.

    Do carry toilet paper with you. Many public restrooms don't have any.

    Don't use, purchase or carry recreational drugs. Though small quantities of certain substances are actually legal for personal use, most

    police officers may not be aware of that fact or of the precise amounts.

    Money

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    Currency Exchange

    Peru's economy is surging, so the nuevo sol (often called the sol) is a relatively stable currency and has even made some ground on the U.S.

    dollar in recent years.

    Many hotels, grocery stores, tourism companies and restaurants also accept U.S. dollars, and it is wise to carry some as a reserve. Ensurethat dollar bills are in excellent condition worn bills or those with small tears are not acceptedalthough Peruvian nuevo sol bills are often

    worn and slightly damaged.

    Dollars can be exchanged at the airport, banks, casas de cambio(exchange houses) and with official exchange people who can beidentified by their yellow vests and who give good rates. They are found near Parque Kennedy in Miraflores and Parque San Martin indowntown Lima, among other places. However, count your money carefully before handing over your dollars, because "mistakes" are not

    rare. Leave your traveler's checks at home, as rates are bad and they are hard to exchange. Fake soles notes are common, and you shouldcheck each bill for its embedded symbol before finalizing an exchange.

    ATMs are commonplace in Lima, particularly in Miraflores, and the easiest way to exchange money is from an ATM using a major bankcard. There will be a small fee, but the rates are similar to banks or currency-exchange booths. Money can be drawn on credit cards, but be

    aware of the high interest rates credit cards immediately charge on cash withdrawals.

    Most large hotels and major shopping centers have ATMs, and there are a number of banks on Avenida Larco in Miraflores that offer ATMs.Both U.S. dollars and nuevos soles are often available from ATMs. Banks can be troublesome because of long lines and red tape; casas de

    cambiogive rates as good and are more convenient, especially outside of banking hours.

    Taxes

    There is a 19% restaurant tax added to checks at upscale restaurants that are not affiliated with a hotel. They may also add a 10% servicecharge. Some restaurants will include the tax in the menu price and will say so. Less expensive restaurants don't add tax.

    Higher-class hotels charge a 19% tax; this can be refunded immediately to international travelers who supply a photocopy of their passport.(Many hotels will make the photocopy for you.)

    Other sales taxes cannot be refunded. Airport taxes are charged for internal flights, but the airport departure tax for international travelers isincluded in the ticket price.

    Tipping

    Tipping is not expected in Lima or much of Peru, although in many places frequented by tourists, it has become common. Most Peruvianswill leave no more than a 5% tip at restaurants, although travelers might leave 15%. Many higher-end restaurants will automatically add a

    10% service charge. If so, you can and should still leave a small tip of 5% or so.

    Expect to tip tour guides about 15 soles-50 soles or more per person per day, depending on the level of service. Trekkers are expected totip porters, cooks and trekking guides. Taxi drivers are rarely tipped, although rounding up your fare an extra sol will be appreciated.Bellboys and skycaps get 2 soles-3 soles per piece of luggage. Indigenous people almost always ask for a tip if you take a photograph of

    them.

    Weather

    The cool Humboldt Current that runs along the Peruvian coast keeps Lima's temperatures fairly mild throughout the year. It can get into the

    mid 80s F/high 20s C during the summer months of December-March, but for the rest of the year, the temperature rarely goes above 70F/22 C or below 50 F/10 C. Rain in Lima is almost nonexistent and precipitation is generally confined to the less than 1 in/2.5 cm annuallygenerated by the garua, a thick mist that penetrates the city during the winter months.

    There really is no best time to visit Lima. If you want to surf or visit the beaches to the south, then go in the sunny summer, but the weather ismild and pleasant (if cloudy) year-round. The tourist high season is during the Northern Hemisphere's summer months of May-September,which coincides with Peru's dry season in the Andes and is the best time for camping, trekking and mountaineering.

    What to Wear

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    Latin Americans are used to dressing up on most occasions, especially when going to restaurants, clubs, work and out in general. Suits arecommon attire among middle- and upper-class men and senior citizens, although younger generations are more relaxed and jeans arecommonplace. Budget travelers and backpackers are sometimes looked down upon for their scraggly clothes, so having at least one nice

    outfit in your bag is recommended. Some restaurants and clubs have dress codes. Churches require a bit of modesty in dress; keepshoulders covered and shorts and skirts to the knee as least.

    Except in the Andes, where thick sweaters and outdoor wear are common among travelers, Lima's mild climate allows for sophisticated and

    formal dress as desired. Shorts are rarely worn unless you are participating in athletic activities. A light jacket is necessary, except insummer.

    Communication

    Telephone

    International and long-distance national calls can be made from pay phones using phone cards or coins. Cards can be purchased from any

    small shop, grocery store, gas station, market stall or street vendor. Country and city codes are normally posted in the phone booths. Localnumbers have seven digits, and you do not need to dial the area code for local calls. Cell phone numbers have eight digits and begin with a9.

    Nextel phones from North America work in Lima, but only on their own network. Rates for two-way calls are very reasonable. Direct dialingabroad from Lima can be very expensive with other cellular companies depending on your rate plan. If you want to call outside the country,you should visit a long-distance calls booth located in cyber cafes, try Skype or an equivalent from your hotel, or buy a phone card.

    For phone information dial 103 (Spanish). For international assistance dial 108 (Spanish). To make an international call, dial 00, then thecountry code, city code and phone number. To call from one city to the next, dial 0, then the city code and phone number. To call Lima from

    the U.S., dial 011-511 plus the number you want to call. (The final 1 there is the Lima city code.) From other countries, replace 011 with thatcountry's international access code.

    Internet Access

    Internet access is widely available throughout Lima by either Wi-Fi or in Internet cafes. You should never have trouble finding Internet servicein Lima. Most hotels have Wi-Fi or a business center, though in large international chain hotels fees can be several times more than inInternet cafes.

    Internet cafes are found all over the place, especially in Miraflores, and cost about 2 soles per hour of use. Several large Internet cafes canbe found in the buildings surrounding Parque Kennedy. Starbucks locations are sprouting across the city and offer wireless service, as domany other cafes.

    Mail & Package Services

    FedEx

    Expensive, but best for international shipping. Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-3 pm. Calle Martir Jose Olaya 260 (Miraflores).

    Lima, Peru 45804. Phone 1-242-2280. http://www.fedex.com.

    Serpost

    Serpost is Peru's privatized mail carrier. It isn't always reliable for sending valuable or large packages, but for letters and postcards it works

    perfectly fine. Monday-Friday 8:15 am-8:15 pm, Saturday 9 am-1:30 pm, Sunday 8 am-4 pm. Rates are more expensive than in NorthAmerica. Pasaje Piura (downtown). Lima, Peru 15100. Phone 1-511-5110. http://www.serpost.com.pe.

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    Newspapers & Magazines

    El Comerciois Lima's best-known newspaper and has the most complete coverage (http://www.elcomercio.com.pe). La Republicais

    respected for its investigative journalism and is more liberal (http://www.larepublica.com.pe). Many smaller, less professional publicationsfocus on sports, business and gossip.

    The literary journal Etiqueta Negrais famous throughout Latin America and often has articles (in Spanish) by well-known North American

    and European writers (http://www.etiquetanegra.com.pe). English-language newspapers and magazines, often a few days old, can be foundat the airport and from vendors near Parque Kennedy.

    The magazine Rumbos(http://www.rumbosonline.com) is a good source of information for travel and nature in Peru and is written in bothEnglish and Spanish. For up-to-date entertainment information, check Somos, a Saturday insert in El Comercio.

    Transportation

    Lima's size and traffic can be intimidating, but getting around the city is easier than you might think. Most travelers who go to Lima avoidrenting cars, as it creates more problems than benefits. Taxis and tours are the best way to see the city, and they are very affordable. Taxis

    are absolutely everywhere and wait outside every hotel and tourist attraction.

    Public transportation is a challenge for tourists. The small, crowded microbuses that fill every street follow highly specific routes and are

    used mainly by Lima's working classes. Adventurous tourists enjoy using public transportation occasionally, and will find that the locals will tryto helpif you speak Spanish.

    A modern bus line, the Metropolitano, offers 38 stops on two routes (nearly identical with a varying center portion) that include regular and

    express service. Payment is made with a rechargeable card available at all stations. The Lima Metro, known locally as the Tren Electrico, isa light-rail system that was long in development. Line 1 (of 4 planned) went into service in 2011 and connects Villa El Salvador in the southto downtown Lima. It uses a prepaid card system similar to the Metropolitano bus. The remaining three lines are scheduled to be completed

    by the end of 2016.

    Tours will take you to many of Lima's tourist sights in a day and can be booked through your tourist agency or hotel. They tend to besignificantly more expensive than a day of taxis, but many people prefer them for less hassle and the benefits of an English-speaking guide.

    Every neighborhood in Lima can be explored


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