Pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago de Compostela John Heermans & Cecilia Polansky

Arles

Chartres

Montpellier

Notes “Santiago” = local Galician evolution of "Saint James” (from vulgar Latin Sanctu Iacobu); he preached in Spain and was martyred by beheading in Jerusalem, 44 AD

Legend holds it that St. James's remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried at the city of Santiago de Compostela

October 1987 -- declared 1st European Cultural Route by European Council; named one of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites

The Way of St. James (Camino) = one of the most important Christian pilgrimages of the Middle Ages, like pilgrimages to Rome and Jerusalem; a plenary indulgence earned by walking it

Notes (2) • “Compostela” = certificate of accomplishment (min. 100 km)

• 4 main routes through France – plus variants

• 100,000 compostelas /year given to pilgrims from > 100 different countries

Pilgrims finishing the Camino since 1985

Preparations • Plane tickets

• Picking which route depending on how far we can walk per day

• Miam Miam Do Do book - lodging

• Maps, tour book

• BACKPACKS

Trail markings (Maria - http://caminoways.com/the-scallop-shell-and-the-camino-de-santiago)

“The scallop shell is one of the most iconic symbols of the Camino de Santiago and today it is used, along with the yellow arrow, to guide pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela along its many different routes. Painted on

trees, sidewalks, tiles, etc..”

We saw more yellow arrows and red-and-white or -yellow stripes than scallop shells

Day 1-2: Chartres gothic cathedral of Notre Dame

•Part of a different route, but only 1 hr trainride from Paris

•From the 12th and 13th centuries, UNESCO World Heritage

•172 stained-glass windows cover 2600 sq. m. or > ½ acre depicting Bible stories, workers who contributed labor

Days 3-6 in Lyon: Basilica La Fourvriere

St. Georges across the street

from our apt.

Days 7-8 in Arles: Van Gogh and WWII

Bullet holes visible on blown-up bridge remnant;

meeting other pilgrims

Day 9 – St. Gilles in 22 km

St. Gilles (Once a pilgrimage destination itself) So many old churches undergoing restoration, but -- worth the disruption

St. Gilles (2) • Pilgrims from all over, but not as

many as usual • Communal dinner and breakfast

• Leave your backpack at the door to make sure bedbugs don’t invade

• BYOB (bring your own blanket)

St. Gilles to Vauvert • A sendoff song

• Pilgrims from Netherlands

• Path along the canal parallel to the Rhone River

• Camargue horses

• “Took a zero”, it was so nice and our feet were so sore

• Autour d’un Olivier

• Met Ken: pilgrim 77 yrs old

• Food, drink, and pride in serving it at the weekly market

Day 10-11: Vauvert

• Missed trail marker at fork cost us 2 miles

• Met Ken again, “going the wrong way” (spoke of “trail angels”)

Day 12 - Aigues Vives

• Chanced upon “running of the bulls” (nonviolent version)

• Maurice running the hostel alone at the age of 90 yrs

• Country chicken and garden veggies never tasted so good

Aigues Vives (2)

Beware of cat

• Walk to Lunel train station 9 km: a bit trafficky – but necessary to get to urban center of Montpelier

• Last official stop on the pilgrimage trail this year

Montpellier (MOHN-PUH-LYAY)

Met Ken again!

The 3 Graces

Familiar sight…

• Side pilgrimage to George Gurdjieff living and meeting sites in west Paris: died here in 1947

• Established the “4th Way” to enlightened living – living and working consciously every day, in the world, in life

PARIS (grande finale)

Russian Orthodox church he attended

Café de la Paix where he met followers

Apartment where followers still meet

UNTIL NEXT TIME

The beloved Notre Dame Cathedral of Paris