MAIN TOPIC:BROKEN STITCH

 BY

MR.ZAHIR UDDIN MD BABURQUALITY CONTROLLER(WOVEN)

 VENUE :

WINDY APPARELS Ltd.BERON, ASHULIA

DEPZ ROAD, SAVARDHAKA-1341

DATED: 25/08/2016

“How To Reduce BROKEN STITCH”

DEFINATION OF BROKEN STITCH

Broken Stitching Is Often Caused By Rough Handling. If You See Stitching Is Missing Or Has Been Broken, Workers At Your Factory May Be Rushing To Complete An Order. The Supplier May Also Have Been Provided An Outdated Specification For Sewing. Stitch Issues Will Generally Be Considered A Major Defect For H&M.

TYPES OF BROKEN STITCHSTYLE - ULRIK JACKET

Broken Stitches - Needle Cutting

Broken Stitches - Abrasion

Broken Stitches by Chemical Degradation Broken Stitch By Machine Parts

BROKEN STITCHES - NEEDLE CUTTING Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bar

tacks on top of waistband stitching, seat seam on top of riser seam) resulting in stitch failure.

Minimizing broken stitches due to Needle Cutting  Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread.  Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut. Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on

denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to lopper thread in the Seam.

 Use needles with the correct needle point.  Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts are

occurring frequently.

BROKEN STITCHES - ABRASION Where thread on the stitch line is broken during stone-washing, sand

blasting, hand sanding, etc. Broken stitches must be repaired by re stitching over the top of the stitch-line.

Minimizing broken Stitches due to Abrasion : Use a higher performance Perms Core or D-Core thread.  Use a larger diameter thread on operations where excessive abrasion is

occurring.  Make sure stitches are balance properly.  Use a Magic air entangled thread in the Lopper due to its lower seam profile

making it less susceptible to abrasion. Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.

BROKEN STITCHES BY CHEMICAL DEGRADATION

Where thread is being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure.

Minimizing broken stitches due to Chemical Degradation:

 Use a higher performance Parma Core NWT that has greater resistance to chemical degradation.

 It is recommended to go to larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical washes.

To achieve the best laundering results make sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.

BROKEN STITCH BY M/C PARTS Is Not Used Being Properly Machine Small Parts

Minimizing broken stitches due to Machine parts:

Used Machine Washer . Used Springs at Bobbin. Used Correct Threading . Used Take Of Spring.(Tension spring)

OPERATOR &M/C PARTS MISSING TYPES OF BROKEN STITCH

Machine Washer Springs at BobbinCorrect Threading Take Of Spring

Handling Needle Sharp edge NeedleFeed Dogs Hole

MACHINE WASHER Don’t Used Machine washer

Used Machine Washer

JUKI Button Stitch M/CModel –LK1903A-SS

JUKI Button Stitch M/CModel –LK1903A-SS

SPRINGS AT BOBBIN

Used Springs At BobbinDon’t Used Springs At Bobbin

CORRECT THREADING

WRONG Threading CORRECT Threading

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

TAKE OF SPRING(TENSION SPRING)

Used Take Of Spring(tension Spring)

Don’t Used Take Of Spring(Tension Spring)

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

HANDLING Correct Way of Handling

Operator Handling problem

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

NEEDLE Operator Used Bent Needle Operator Don’t Used Bent Needle

TYPICAL Plain M/CModel DDL-N/A

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

SHARPEDGE NEEDLEOperator Use Sharp Edge NeedleOperator Don’t Use Sharp Edge

Needle

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

FEED DOGS HOLEFeed Dogs Hole Not Adjusted Correct Setting Feed Dogs Hole

TYPICAL Two Needle M/CModel DDL-N/A

JUKI Plain M/CModel DDL-8700B

THE NEEDLE KEEPS BREAKING

The Solution: This boils down to a single follow-up question, "Are you using the right needle?" Going up or down to the appropriately-numbered size can make a huge difference. Needles are sized from 8 to 18, depending on their use. A size 9 or 11 works best for delicate, lightweight fabrics like chiffon, silk, and organza. A size 14 works best for medium-weight fabrics like flannel, linen, and synthetic suede. And a size 16 (or preferably) 18 is reserved for heavy-weight fabrics like denim. Therefore, using a size 9 needle on denim will inevitably break the needle. Additionally, are you using the right type -- that is, ball point, regular point or wedge point? For reference, you can check a full size chart here.

THIS THREE-STEP CHECKLIST CAN EASILY SOLVE MOST MACHINE MISHAPS. 

1. Clean it out: When was the last time you did a thorough top-to-bottom wipe-down of your machine? Dust and lint can quietly and quickly accumulate in the bobbin area and tension assembly, so have your machine professionally serviced regularly. If you use it daily, a weekly cleaning is needed. For weekly use only, clean it once a month. And for occasional monthly use, clean it every three months.

 2. Rethread your machine: Yes, even the slightest bump can

affect your stitching. Check your bobbin, needle, and thread to make sure everything is in the right place.

 3. Check your needle and thread: As we already mentioned,

using the right size and type of needle is imperative. Additionally, you should use high-quality thread -- it will have a nice, smooth filament and not be "fuzzy" or uneven in thickness. Thread does have a shelf-life -- although different types age differently -- so keep your collection of spools in rotation and stored properly (out of humidity and direct sunlight).  

OUR MODEL LINE DHU%

PROJ

ECTI

ONBt

tm H

em U

... U

p-Do

wnSh

adin

gBr

oken

Stit

ch

Pock

et P

la...

NECK

LOO

SENE

EDLE

MAR

KOp

en s

titch

Plea

tNE

EDLE

CUT

0

128

4

7050

66

427

6583

34

4668

139

0

348

169

211

Defect Contri-bution

PROJ

ECTI

ONBt

tm H

em U

... U

p-Do

wnSh

adin

gBr

oken

Stit

ch

Pock

et P

la...

Oil S

pot

RAW

Stit

chOp

en s

titch

Plea

tFa

b De

fect

15

154

0

175

133151

0

149

213

123

3 0 3

139

67

1624

148107

0 0

Defect Contri-bution

Month-August Month-July

CORRECTIVE PREVENTIVE ACTION

Hourly Threading, Tension, & Needle Sharp Edge Check Report.

Daily Awareness About That Defect. Daily DHU Comparing. Root Cause Analysis & Corrective Action

Plan. Daily Top 3 Defect Board In Sewing Line. 7 Pcs System.

EVERY WEEK MEETING WITH ORGANIGATION TOP LEVEL,MID LEVEL&ROOT LEVEL FOR DHU TOP 3

DEFECT . CORRECTION OF ALL GARMENTS DEFECTS .

OUR GOAL

This means that they are saying that you shouldn’t give up so easily when something is hard. It reminds me that each time I try

something new it will get easier each time I do it. If I don’t get something right the first time I need to keep trying.

ExampleWhen I just started to surf I couldn’t get up on the board, I always

used to fall off the second I tried to get up. But now I can get up and paddle into the waves and go along the wave with out falling

off.

SUCCESS

Edison — holder of over 1,000 patents — had an insane work ethic. He was known to put in 72 hours at a time. So naturally, his definition of success is equally ambitious: "Success is 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration."

INVENTOR THOMAS EDISON RECOGNIZED THAT SUCCESS IS A GRIND

PHILOSOPHICAL WORD FOR WIN