PRIVATE SPECIFICATION - etenders.gov.za SASSA 009_V01.0... · private specification prepared for...

PRIVATE SPECIFICATION

Prepared for the

JERSEY, V-NECK, WOMEN

SASSA009

Version 01.0

January 2013

sassa

Doc No Date Responsibility Version Page

SASSA009 January 2013 SASSA 01.0 Page 2 of 18

1. Scope This specification covers the material and make of long sleeved, V-neck jerseys for female personnel of the South African Social Security Agency (SASSA).

2. Definitions and Abbreviations

For the purpose of this specification the definitions given in SANS 10371 "Terms and definitions for

clothing" and the following shall apply:

acceptable: acceptable to the South African Social Security Agency (SASSA).

nominal: subject to the tolerances normal to good manufacturing practice

SANS: South African National Standard

splicing (knitting): reinforcement of areas of knitted goods by the knitting of an additional yarn, known as slicing

yarn, along the ground yarn

3. Style

The style is as follows:

V-neck

long sleeves

rib body welt

rib cuffs

embroidery on left chest



4. Illustrations

Illustrations are not to scale and are for guidance only.

Figure 1 - Front

Figure 2 - Back

POLICE

POLICE



5. Client Furnished Materials

No Materials will be supplied by the South African Social Security Agency, unless

otherwise specified by the order of contract.

6. Component Materials

6.1 Knitted fabric

to comply with the requirements of table 1

colour to be an acceptable match to Pantone Colour Black

6.2 Stay tape

to comply with the requirements of TA 13 of SANS 877 “Woven cotton tapes” OR an acceptable non-stretch, pre-shrunk tape of nominal width 10 mm – 13 mm

colour to be black

6.3 Cover thread

the same yarn as that used in the knitted fabric

colour to be as specified for the knitted fabric

6.4 Embroidery thread

100% viscose embroidery thread

colours to be as given in table 2



Table 1 – Knitted fabric requirements

1 2 3

Property Requirement SANS number

(unless otherwise indicated)

Fibre composition, %

Ground yarn

New wool .............................................................

Nylon ....................................................................

Splicing yarn

Nylon a ..................................................................

80 ± 3

20 ± 3

All

1833-1 and

1833-4

AATCC method 20

Construction

Body and sleeves ...................................................

Body welt, neck trim and cuffs ...............................

Full milano rib

2 X 2 rib

Visual examination

Positioning of splicing ........................................... Body and cuff welts

Visual examination

Courses per 10 cm, min.

Body and sleeves ...................................................

Body welt and cuffs ................................................

110

100

5275

Stitch length, mm, max.

All needles knitting course .....................................

6,7

6104

Mass per area, g/m2, min.

Body and sleeves ...................................................

410

5385

Resistance to pilling, rating, min. 3-4 ISO 12945-1b

Dimensional changes on washing, % max.

Length ....................................................................

Width .............................................................................

7

5

960,

Washing procedure D c

Drying procedure G

Colour fastness to:

Light, rating, min. .................................................. 5 105-B02

Washing, rating, min.

Change in colour ..................................................

Staining ................................................................

4

4

105-C10

Test A (1)

Perspiration, rating, min.

Change in colour ..................................................

Staining ................................................................

4

4

105-E04

a One end of bulked continuous-filament yarn of recommended linear density: 95 dtex.

b Test

for 4 h after a pre-treatment in accordance with the prescribed test method for dimensional

changes on washing. c Test in tubular form.



Table 2 – Colour breakdown of embroidered logo

NOTE: BLACK COLOUR FILLED SECTIONS INDICATE THE CORRECT COLOUR APPLICATION

RED

PANTONE 1795C

BLUE

PANTONE 2935C

YELLOW

PANTONE 130C

BLACK

GREEN

PANTONE 3415C



The jerseys shall be: made with first-class workmanship throughout

of uniform and acceptable make, colour and finish

Shall be free from: defects, that affect their appearance or may affect their serviceability (or both)

marks

spots

stains, incurred in the making-up

Seams and stitches shall be: smooth and uniform

free from twists, pleats and puckers

Ends of sewing shall be: trimmed and loose threads removed

back-tacked if unsecured

7. Workmanship



8. Sizes

Jersey measurements:

MEASURING POINT

DESCRIPTION

A - A Bust circumference Measure across the width of the garment at the base of the armhole,

with the garment spread completely flat, and multiply by two.

B - B Back length Measure from the rib-to-neck- seam at the centre back to the bottom

edge of the jersey.

A - C Underarm sleeve

length

Measure along the underarm seam, from the base of the armhole to

the outer edge of the cuff.

D - D Depth of neck

opening

Measure from the top edge of the centre back neck to the top edge

of the V.

B

A A

B

D

D

C



Table 3 – Size range

1 2 3 4 5

Size

designation1

Nominal finished garment measurements, cm

Bust circumference

Back length

Sleeve length

Depth of neck

opening

SMALL 82 - 87 84 59 45 18

MEDIUM 92 - 97 94 63 45 18

LARGE 102 -107 104 67 46 20

X-LARGE 112 - 117 114 67 47 21

XX-LARGE 122 - 127 124 69 48 21

XXX-LARGE

132 - 137 134 73 49 21

1) Based on the bust girth in centimetres of the intended wearer.



9. Make

Illustrations are not to scale and are for guidance only, and unless inconsistent with the text, all measurements are nominal.

9.1 Body

The body to:

consist of two parts: - front - back

be seamed together at the sides and shoulders and secured at the bottom of the side seams

to have a rib welt at the lower edge (see table 1) - of depth 55 mm

be such that each shoulder is stayed with stay tape on the inside - sewn in with the shoulder seams

9.2 Neck opening

The neck opening shall:

form a V at the centre front

be finished off with rib-knitted fabric (see table 1) - of finished depth 20 mm (after it has been folded double and sewn to the neck opening) - rib ends to be stitched together and positioned at centre front - raw edges shall be overlocked, folded open and stitched together with the rib-to-neckline seam

Figure 3 – Inside view of neck opening

Edges folded open and sewn

together with the neckline



9.3 Sleeves

The sleeves to be:

long

one-piece

set-in

seamed under the arms

secured at the end of the seams

tapered to a rib cuff (see table 1) of finished depth 70 mm

9.4 Embroidery

The design to be:

the registered South African Social Security Agency logo

embroidered with embroidery thread in full colour

dimensions of embroidered logo to be as agreed upon between the South African Social Security Agency and the successful manufacturer

positioned as given in figure 4 (given for guidance)

Figure 4 – Embroidery

10. Stitches, Seams and Stitchings 10.1 Stitches

overlocking: three-thread overlocking stitch attaching of necktrim: mock linking stitch



10.2 Seams

Shoulder seam: seam type SSab-1 and finish off with cover thread

Superimpose a strip on two plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches (positioned at the specified distance(s) from the aligned edges). All other seams: seam type SSa-1 and finished off with cover thread

Superimpose two or more plies of material and seam with one row of stitches positioned at the specific distance(s) from the aligned edges. Attachment of neck trim: seam type BSd or BSa

Turn in one edge of a binding strip, fold the strip round the edge of a ply or plies of material, and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.

Fold a binding strip round the edge of a ply or plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.

10.3 Number of stitches

The determination of sewing stitches per unit length will be done in accordance with SANS 5278 ”Sewing stitches per unit length” seams and cover thread: 40 4 per 10 cm

11.1 Label properties

All labels shall:

be white woven rayon labels that are printed

comply with SANS 1309 " Printed labels for textiles”

information to be in legible and indelible block letters of height at least 3 mm

permanently secured

be such that they outlast the garments (including the markings)

may be loop labels OR separate labels

11. Care-labelling and marking



11.2 Care-labelling

each garment shall have a label that provides correct and appropriate care instructions (in words and symbols, in accordance with SANS10011 “Care-labelling of textile piece-goods, textile articles and clothing”)

each label to include the composition of the main fabric in accordance with the requirements of SANS 10235 “Fibre-content labelling of textiles and textile products”

the care instructions shall either be at the back of the loop label, or if separate labels are used, it shall be sewn in with the left side seam

11.3 Marking

Each jersey shall have, positioned at centre back on the inside, a label that provides the following information:

the acronym: SASSA

the WORD: “WOMEN”

the manufacturer's name of trade mark or both

the specification number

the fibre composition of the body fabric

the country of origin

the year of manufacture

the VAT number of the contractor

a separate small label displaying the size shall be superimposed in the centre of the neck label and sewn together with the main label

Figure 5 – Example of information on neck label

12.1 Packing 12.1.1 The jerseys shall be:

delivered in a commercially dry condition so packed that they will not be damaged in transit or in storage

12. Packaging and marking of packaging

SASSA

WOMEN

Manufacturer’s name

Spec No: SASSA009

MADE IN SOUTH AFRICA

2010/2011

VAT No: 4679312

M 92cm -97cm Separate label sewn on top of main label



neatly folded, and individually packed in a plastics envelope of suitable size and shape unless otherwise specified in the order or contract, acceptably packed for transportation in

acceptable bulk containers 12.1.2 Contents of bulk container:

only jerseys of the same size designation to be packed together in a bulk container each bulk container shall contain the same amount of jerseys (per consignment) the number of jerseys packed in a bulk container shall always be a factor of ten, e.g. 30, 40

(according to the supplier’s discretion)

NOTE: Different sized jerseys may never be packed together in a bulk container. The last bulk container of EACH SPECIFIC SIZE per consignment may contain QUANTITES that deviate from the prescribed amount of jerseys. If this is the case, the supplier will mark this container with a clearly visible red sticker at each outer end of the lid for easy identification.

12.2 Marking 12.2.1 Plastics envelopes

Each envelope to be clearly marked with the following information:

the item description the size designation

12.2.2 Bulk containers

Each bulk container shall have a label securely attached to the outside. This label shall be visible when the containers are stacked and shall provide the information in legible and indelible markings as follows:

the manufacturer's name or trade mark or both the order number or contract number the item description the quantity of the item the size designation of the item the year of manufacture mass of the packed container the invoice number(s) the total mass of the packed container the SABS Inspection Certificate Number (where relevant)

12.3 Additional marking

When so required by the South African Social Security Agency, jerseys, envelopes or containers (or any combination of these) to bear information additional to that specified above.



13. Normative References The following documents contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this specification. All documents are subject to revision and, since any reference to a document is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of that document, parties to agreements based on this specification are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the documents indicated below. Information on currently valid national, international and CKS documents may be obtained from the South African Bureau of Standards

1.

AATCC method 20, Fiber analysis: Qualitative. Available from World Wide Web http://www.aatcc.org/Technical

Test_Methods/scopes/tm20.cfm

ISO 12945-1, Textiles – Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling – Part 1: Pilling box

method.

SANS 105-B02/ISO 105-B02, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light:

Xenon arc fading lamp test.

SANS 105-C10/ISO 105-C10, Textiles – Tests for colour fastness – Part C10: Colour fastness to washing with

soap or soap and soda.

SANS 105-E04/ISO 105-E04, Textiles - Tests for colour fastness Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration.

SANS 877, Woven cotton tapes.

SANS 960, Textiles - Dimensional stability during washing and drying procedures.

SANS 1309, Printed labels for textiles.

SANS 1362, Sewing threads.

SANS 1387-2, Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics – Part 2: Polyester-and-cotton workwear fabrics.

SANS 1457, Plastics buttons.

SANS 1833-1/ISO 1833-1, Textiles – Quantitative chemical analysis – Part 1: General principles of testing.

SANS 1833-4/ISO 1833-4, Textiles – Quantitative chemical analysis – Part 4: Mixtures of certain protein and

certain other fibres (method using hypochlorite).

SANS 5275, Wales and courses per unit length in knitted textile fabrics (counting glass method).

SANS 5278, Sewing stitches per unit length.

SANS 5385, Mass per unit area of conditioned knitted textiles.

SANS 6104, Stitch length of weft-knitted fabrics.

SANS 10011, Care-labelling of textile piece-goods, textile articles and clothing.

1 SABS: Tel. +27 (0) 12 4287911

www.sabs.co.za

http://www.aatcc.org/Technical%20Test_Methods/scopes/tm20.cfm

http://www.aatcc.org/Technical%20Test_Methods/scopes/tm20.cfm



SANS 10235, Fibre-content labelling of textiles and textile products.

SANS 10371, Terms and definitions for clothing.

SANS 10076-4, The assessment of defects in textile piece-goods and made-up articles, Part 4: Defects in

knitted piece-goods.

ANNEX A

(Normative)

Special conditions of tender

A-1 GENERAL

A-1.1 Unless otherwise stated, the South African Bureau of Standards shall be the inspecting authority.

A-1.2 The following shall have been submitted, inspected, tested and approved by the

inspecting authority before bulk production is commenced:

a) Three pre-production sample jerseys.

b) Two pieces of the knitted fabric, 50 cm x 50 cm for pilling tests.

c) Three trim charts containing a sample of each component material (as given in

6) and the relevant certificates. It shall be the duty of the manufacturer to give

adequate notice to the inspecting authority of the availability of these samples.

NOTE: When new dye batches of yarn are to be used in production, two sample pieces of the knitted

fabric, 30 cm x 30 cm – with the dye batch clearly marked – shall be tested and approved by the

inspecting authority before the dye batch may be used in production.

A-1.3 The jerseys shall be subject to inspection during the course of manufacture. The inspector shall, during normal working hours, be given all reasonable facilities for carrying out his duties and shall have the right of entry into the contractor's factory and the factory or works of any subcontractor where work on jerseys supplied to this specification may be in progress

A-1.4 The contractor shall inspect the finished jerseys for compliance with the specification

before submitting them to the inspecting authority for final inspection.

A-1.5 Before acceptance, the jerseys shall have been inspected and tested by the inspecting authority and found to comply with the requirements of the specification.

A-2 DOCUMENTATION

One container of each consignment shall be marked “DOCUMENTS” and in addition

to the jerseys, shall contain the following: a) The packaging slip or delivery note; b) where applicable the inspection certificate(s); c) a copy of the invoice containing the following information: - the order number - the financial authority number - a full description of the consignment, i.e. quantity, etc



ANNEX B

(Normative)

CKS 129 Colours

Due to the fact that colours can change over a period of time, any colour standard which has

been registered for a period of SEVEN YEARS or more shall be considered obsolete. These

standards shall then be allocated an archived status (as opposed to current status) and re-

registration shall be required.

A. The following scenarios require a submission of knitted blocks (as given in Annex

A) and/or a reel of embroidery thread from fabric/and or thread supplier:

1. A colour standard is archived.

2. First time registration is required (CKS 129 colour number does not exist).

3. Colour swatch stock at the SABS is no longer available.

B. Requirements for the submission of fabric as identified in A:

1. The colour shall be as agreed upon between South African Social Security Agency

and the successful tenderer.

2. The fabric and embroidery thread shall be used to make new colour swatches which

shall be the responsibility of the SABS.

3. The cost of the knitted blocks and embroidery thread shall be incorporated in the

relevant tender submission.



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