REINVENTING THE UNDERWIRE BRA

A GARMENT ANALYSIS RE

H A I L E Y S T E E D

P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E M E N T 2 0 1 4

S 3 4 4 9 4 9 1

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Part 1: Garment Analysis Report

Style Description .............................................................................. 3

Positioning Strategy .......................................................................... 4

Sizing and Fit ......................................................................................5

Material Selections/Specifications ................................................... 6-9

Garment Components and Assembly............................................10-12

Final Assembly/Finishing ..............................................................12-14

Packaging and Presentation ............................................................. 15

Appendix A: Innovation Statement ……………………………………..16

Part 2: Innovation and Research

Information Technology ................................................................ 17-18

Biotechnology ………………………………………………….…….. 18-19

Nano Scale Technology …………………..….………………..……. 19-20

Sustainable Resources ……………………...…………………...…..20-21

References …………………………………………………………….22-24

T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S

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Part 1: Garment Analysis Report

Part 1: Style Description

Brand: Victoria’s Secret Style Number: 1608

Merchandise Group: Intimates/Lingerie Selling Period: Winter 2015

Body Type: Average

Date approved: 12/3

Date modified: 10/3

Verbal Description: Delicate lace demi bra

o Lightly lined

o Adjustable straps

o Back closure, double row of hook and eye closures

o 4 settings of closures for a secure, comfortable fit

o All over lace

o Imported nylon/Lycra® spandex

Fabrics: Stretch Lycra lace, power mesh, nylon.

Trims: Lace trim and rhinestones

Detailed Drawing, Front Detailed Drawing, Back

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Part 2: Positioning Strategy Style # 1608

Functional 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Aesthetic

Durable 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Disposable

Intrinsic Cues 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Extrinsic Cues

Basic Styling 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Fashion Styling

Nonseasonal 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Seasonal

Budget Price 5 4 3 2 1 0 1 2 3 4 5 Better Price

1) Functional vs Aesthetic: With the new technology incorporated into this bra, the aim is to not

sacrifice aesthetic for function but to meet in the middle with the best of both.

2) Durable vs Disposable: By changing the underwire technology, the aim is to greatly enhance the

life of the bra and make it far more durable.

3) Basic styling vs Fashion Styling: Even with the new technical aspects, the bra will retain its

previous fashion styling and appeal.

4) Nonseasonal vs Seasonal: As a category, lingerie is ultimately nonseasonal as it is required

everyday.

5) Budget price vs Better Price: With the addition of a new, more tech based fabric, the bra will be

worth more than budget price. As this technology lengthens the life and use of the bra, an

investment is worthwhile.

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Part 3: Sizing and Fit Style # 1608

Size Ranges by Gender and Body Type

unisex infants toddlers children students adults

male boys young men’s men’s men’s tall men’s stout

female girls preteens juniors women’s

Size Indicators for range selected above

General body size: small medium large extra large

1x 2x 3x 4x 5x Other: average female body

Size range:

32A, 32B, 32C, 32D

34A, 34B, 34C, 34D

36A, 36B, 36C, 36D

Fit indicators for range selected above

Height:

Short long petite tall other: _________

Circumference:

slim tapered stocky other________

Silhouette:

Closeness of conformance to body: little moderate high

Amount of fabric stretch: little moderate high

medium

trim

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Part 4: Material Selection/Specifications Style # 1608

Material name: Textronic stretch Lace Vendor: Huaxing Fashion Industry Co., Limited Vendor Location: China Material Description: Floral motif lace Color(s): Red Fiber Content: 90% Nylon; 10% Spandex Fabrication: Lace Count/gauge: Unknown Weight/size: 8.6 cm x 150 cm Structural/applied design: Floral motif Finishes: None Care Instructions: Hand wash in cold water

Material name: Raschel stretch trim Vendor: Huaxing Fashion Industry Co., Limited Vendor Location: China Material Description: Scalloped floral lace trim Color(s): Tan Fiber Content: 90% Nylon, 10% Spandex Fabrication: Lace Count/gauge: Unknown Weight/size: 6cm x 3.8 cm Structural/applied design: Floral motif Finishes: None Care Instructions: None

Material name: Power stretch mesh Vendor: Dongguan Techson Textiles Factory Vendor Location: China Material Description: Plain, knitted mesh fabric Color(s): Tan Fiber Content: 88% Nylon, 12% Spandex Yarn Type/size: 40D Nylon + 140D Spandex Fabrication: Mesh fabric Weight/size: 150 gsm Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A

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Part 4: Material Selection/Specifications Style # 1608

Material name: Lingerie elastic Vendor: Hengzing Industry & Trading Co., Ltd Vendor Location: Fujian China (Mainland) Material Description: High elastic polyester Color(s): Hot red Fiber Content: Cotton, polyester, nylon Fabrication: Elastic Count/gauge: Unknown Weight/size: 1.5 cm Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A Material name: Fashion elastic bra strap Vendor: Baoda Fashion Accessories Co., Ltd. Vendor Location: Zhejiang China (Mainland) Material Description: Elastic bra strap Color(s): Red Fiber Content: 90% nylon; 10% spandex Fabrication: Knitted webbing Count/gauge: Unknown Weight/size: 1.5 cm Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A

Material name: Bra hook + eye Vendor: Shantou Xinfa Lingerie Accessories Firm Vendor Location: Guangdong China (Mainland) Material Description: Polyester fabric with velour base, nylon coated hook and eye piece Color(s): Red Fiber Content: N/A Fabrication: Polyester and velour Weight/size: 3.8 cm Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: Nylon coated metal hooks Care Instructions: N/A

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Part 4: Material Selection/Specifications Style # 1608

Material name: Hot fix rhinestones Vendor: Guangzhou Haizhu Highsky Factory Vendor Location: Zhejiang China (Mainland) Material Description: Motif rhinestones Color(s): Crystal Fiber Content: N/A Yarn Type/size: N/A Fabrication: N/A Count/gauge: N/A Weight/size: 4.7 mm Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: Hand wash in cold, hot glue Fixture will react badly with heat.

Material name: Strap adjuster Vendor: Shantou Yiwu Joyful E-Business Firm Vendor Location: Guangdong China (Mainland) Material Description: Plastic bra buckle Color(s): Red Fiber Content: N/A; plastic Fabrication: N/A Count/gauge: N/A Weight/size: 6-20 mm inner diameter Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A

Material name: Underwire Vendor: Shantou Xinfa Lingerie Accessories Firm Vendor Location: China Material Description: Stainless steel underwire Color(s): Silver Yarn Type/size: N/A Fabrication: N/A Count/gauge: N/A Weight/size: Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A

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Part 4: Material Selection/Specifications Style # 1608

Material name: Underwire Casing Vendor: Guangzhou Junsheng Textile Co., Ltd. Vendor Location: Guangdong, China (Mainland) Material Description: Nylon Color(s): Red Fiber Content: Cotton, polyester, nylon Yarn Type/size: 10 mm Fabrication: webbing Weight/size: 10 mm Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A

Material name: Novana fabric (ABC-Matrix) Vendor: Novana Vendor Location: Georgia, USA Material Description: Antiballistic composite Color(s): Black Fiber Content: Recyclable polymers Fabrication: N/A Count/gauge: N/A Weight/size: Lightweight Structural/applied design: N/A Finishes: N/A Care Instructions: N/A

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Part 5: Garment Components Assembly Style # 1608

Components: 2 x cups, 2 x cup mesh lining, 2 x side panel, 2 x back panel, 2 x strap,

1 x center panel, 1 x hook and eye, 2 x ring, 2 x strap adjuster, 2 x underwire

No. of pieces: 18 pieces

No. of materials: 5; stretch lace, power mesh, elastic strap,

Drawing of component pieces Drawing of finished component with measurements

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Part 5: Garment Components Assembly Style # 1608

Operational Breakdowns Operation 1: Cut out all pieces of pattern.

cup (2)

cup lining (2)

center panel (1)

side panels (2)

back panels (2)

Operation 2: Sew bra cups.

Sew lining to cup

Sew darts in the grey shaded areas Spi: 10 Stitch/seam type: 301 Special instructions:

Sew darts using seam type; 6.05.01

Sew darts using stitch type; 301

Operation 3: Attach cups to center panel.

Spi: 10 Stitch type: lockstitch; 301 Seam type: general seaming; 1.01 Special instructions: none

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Operation 4: Sew back panel to matching side panel (x2) Spi: 10 Stitch type: lockstitch; 301 Seam type: general seaming; 1.01 Special instructions: None

Operation 5: Line the combined back and side panels with stretch elastic on top and bottom.

Spi: 10 Stitch type: zip zag lockstitch; 304 Width: 3/16” Seam type: general seaming; 1.01 Special instructions: None

Operation 6: Attach combined back and side panels

to the bra cups. Spi: 10 Stitch type: lockstitch; 301 Seam type: general seaming; 1.01 Special instructions: None

Operation 7: Use Novana fabric to make a casing around the underwire (x2)

Spi: 10 Stitch type: chainstitch; 401 Seam type: N/A Special instructions: None

Operation 8: Sew underwire into bottom of cup (x2)

Spi: 10 Stitch type: chainstitch; 401 Seam type: tunnelled elastic; 7.26.05 Special instructions: None

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Part 6: Final Assembly and Finishing Style # 1608

Total number of components: 7

Total number of materials: 5

lace trim, rhinestones, strap elastic (2), plastic bra buckle (2), hook and eye closure.

Final Assembly Operations Operation 1: Sew lace trim along top of bra cups and top of side and back panels on both sides. Spi: 10 Stitch type: zig zag lockstitch; 401 Width: 3/16” Seam type: lap seaming; 2.01.01 Special instructions: None Operation 2: Loop strap elastic through plastic belt

buckles (x2). Spi: N/A Stitch type: N/A Width: N/A Seam type: lap seaming: N/S Special instructions: None Operation 3: Attach straps to body of bra (x2) Spi: 20 Stitch type: zig zag lockstitch; 401 Width: 1/8” Seam type: lap seaming; 2.01.01 Special instructions: None

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Finishing Processes Process 1: Apply rhinestones on bra cups (x2). Instructions: Scatter approximately 40 rhinestones on each bra cup evenly. Process 2: Attach hook and eye to back panels of bra. Instructions: Sew hooks to left back panel.

Stitch type: zig zag lockstitch (401)

Spi: 20

Width: 3/16”

Seam type: lap seaming, 2.01.01

Analysis of Finished Garment

Matching fabric design: Color shading: Stretch lace, straps, hook and eye, plastic bra buckle, bra elastic are all to be exact

same color red. Lining and lace trim to be exact same color tan. Consistency of stitches and seams: Most stitches require an SPI of 10, special seams require an SPI of 20. Compatibility of materials: Overall appearance: Only zig zag lockstitch is to be seen, all other seams must be hidden.

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Part 7: Garment Packaging/Presentation Style # 1608

Label/Ticket Information

Brand label Type: cloth label Size: 1” x ½” Location: back panel next to hook and eye Wording: “Victoria’s Secret” Size label Type: cloth label Size: 2” x ½” Location: back panel beneath brand label Wording: “Dream Angels Demi” 34C Fiber content label Type: cloth label Size: 2” x ½” Location: same tag as size label Wording: “Body: 90% nylon, 10% spandex” “Lace trim: 77% polyester, 23% spandex” Country of origin label Type: cloth label Size: 2” x ½” Location: on backside of fiber content + size label Wording: “Made in China” Care instructions label Type : cloth label Size: 2” x ½” Location: on backside of fiber content + size label Wording: “Hand wash cold separately. Do not bleach. Do not twist or wring. Reshape. Lay flat to dry.”

Performance/Marketing Information Hangers/Display devices Type: wooden hangers Size: standard Bags Type: Victoria’s Secret brand bags. Size: options depending on purchase size ( S, M, L, XL,) Label information: “Victoria’s Secret” with signature light pink and dark pink stripes. Hang tag tickets Type: thick cardboard Size: 3 ½” x 2” Label information: brand, size, style number, barcode.

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Appendix A: Innovation Statement

Most bras on the market today use underwire as a means of support. While underwire is common, it

comes with drawbacks. Many times the longevity of a bra can be compromised by the underwire

poking out of the fabric and stabbing the wearer, making it impossible to continue using and relying

on that bra. This pain however does not need to be endured. Non-wired bras have been appearing in

the lingerie market as of recent years. Most non-wired bras are simply that, bras without wires.

Often times they are cotton triangle bras used more for ornamental purposes than supportive,

everyday purposes. Consumers are fed up with underwire pain but don’t trust non-wire bras to

provide the necessary everyday support.

The need for a trustworthy underwire bra that does not hurt the wearer is what drives this

innovation. I propose the main goal is not to remove the supportive underwire but to contain it.

Most underwires in bra have a casing surrounding the wire for comfort, if the casing were to be

made stronger and more resistant to the wire breaking through then the need would be eliminated.

By replacing the common webbed cotton underwire casing with a Novana fabric, there will be many

advantages. First will be that since Novana is bulletproof and repairs itself after destruction, it would

be a likely choice to keep a simple underwire contained. Since bras are an everyday item the fabric

must be durable but relatively inexpensive to mass produce. With the strength of Kevlar but far less

the price, Novana solves that. Another advantage to using Novana to reinvent the underwire bra is

the strong competitive advantage gained. This concept is unique and can be marketed in many ways.

Although the Novana may raise the price slightly of the bra, it will make up for it in durability and a

long life.

Novana is a recent nanotechnology but also has a sustainable appeal as the fabric is made from

recycled polymers making it different from other antiballistic fabrics on the market. As the consumer

trends head to more sustainable apparel, this innovative underwire technology will be a success.

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Part 2: Innovation + Research

Information Technology: Information technology is defined as “the capability to

electronically input process, store, and output, transmit, and receive data and information.”

(Sahewala, 2012). In today’s world we are driven by electronics. Retail and the fashion industry have

much to gain from new developments within the IT world. Some IT technologies already commonly

used in the fashion industry are Radio Frequency Identification (RFID), Point of Sale (POS), CAD,

semi-automatic and full automatic sewing machines, and most supply chain management

technologies (Sahewala, 2012). The increase of information technology within the industry has an

impact directly on trends. With technology like fully automatic sewing machienes, brands and

designers are able to more opportunity for mass customization manufacturing systems then ever

before (Tian, 2010).

Not only does information technology change behind the scenes, but also it’s becoming more and

more common to see IT in your clothing. Radiate Athletics has developed a workout top that “reacts

to your body’s activities and shows you, in real time, how hard you’ve been working.” The top will

change color to highlight the areas you’re working so you can know how the workout is really going

(Morin, 2014).

Another company called Ping has created “the first social networking garment” this hooded jacket

allows you to be connected to your Facebook without even needing a phone. Various Facebook

activities like commenting, friending someone, or liking a post can be controlled by a movement in

the hoodie like pulling up the hood, tying a bow, or zipping up the jacket (Morin, 2014).

Hand Tech is another example of IT within fashion, although it is still just a concept, it is a glance at

what the industry can involve into. Hand Tech is a glove that lets you “project, take photos,

exchange data, and record videos.” It can also translate sign language (Morin, 2014).

At the Virginia Tech Textile Labs, “Smart Pants” have been developed. Smart pants are described as

“a high-tech marriage breeding the latest in wearable computers, like pants that detect movement

and let a computer know your every move.” Using a loom, wires, and sensors the fabrics are sewn

together. The sensors in the fabric measure speed, rotation and flexibility of the pants. Wireless

signals are then sent from the pants to a computer to display the results. Researchers not only hope

Radiate Athletics Ping hooded top Hand Tech

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to bring technology further into our everyday lives, but they also hope that having “wearable

computers” may help save lives. With the constant contact to our bodies, the smart pants should be

able to monitor illnesses (Smart Pants, 2014).

Other developments in the information technology and fashion field include biosensors in briefs to

continuously monitor physical things like blood pressure and heart rate when patients check out of

the hospital (Rehman, 2013).

Biotechnology: Biotechnology is defined as “the exploitation of biological processes for

industrial and other purposes, especially the genetic manipulation of microorganisms for the

production of antibiotics, hormones, etc.” (Google, 2014). The most common biotechnology

phenomenon within fashion is the use of fibers made from genetically engineered crops. If you visit

a Biotechnology conference, you should expect to see everything from fancy prom dresses to

backpacks made of used plastic bottles and fibers made of crops.

Ingeo is a prime example of a biotech fabric.

Spun from polyactide (PLA) which is a

compostable biopolymer made from dextrose

corn sugar, it is said to have the ability to mimic

silk, polyester, leather, and elastic (Winters,

2006). This fiber has seen a wide variety of uses in

the textile industry already in areas such as dress,

sportswear, drapes and furnishings, and even

baby wipes. It has incredible performance

qualities like hypoallergenic properties; stain

resistance, low odour retention, moisture

management, and insulation properties (Ingeo,

2009).

Bio-polishing is another biotechnology being used

as finish for textiles. Bio-polishing involves a process where “cellulose acts on the surface area of the

fabric” (Tian, 2010). The enzyme molecule hydrates the fuzz on fabrics and ultimately they break off

and this provides a smoother yarn surface (view image 2). The main advantage of bio-polishing in

textile is the elimination of pilling. By eliminating pills on fabric, the fabric will be more durable and

be more attractive to consumers.

(Tian, 2010)

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One last innovation worth noting in biotechnology manufacturing is being created in Australia. Micro

‘be’ material is made from fermented red wine. As the wine becomes contaminated with bacteria

and “goes off,” a skin-like layer forms on the top of the liquid. These very delicate micro-fibrils of

cellulose can be extracted and used to create fabric for garments. The bacteria that causes this

cellulose formation, Acetobacter, basically converts wine into vinegar. The end fabric is

biodegradable and resourceful in its ultimate goal to “create a seamless, biosynthetic garment that

forms without a single stitch” (Micro’be’, 2014). While the organic textile produces it’s own color

and structure, the garments face a slight odour, due to amount of vinegar created by the

Acetobacter (Micro’be’, 2014).

Nano Scale Technology: Nano scale manufacturing techniques in the apparel and textile

industry involves “dealing with nano fibers at the atomic and molecular levels in order to tweak their

properties” (Soutter, 2013). This technology has been used to eliminate odour in clothing, regulate

climate control in clothes, and even resist dirt and water.

Waterproofing with nanotechnology is a key player, US engineers have created the “most

waterproof material ever” (Morgan, 2013). The lotus leaf used to be the standard for keeping dry in

the outdoors, but a team of scientists from MIT have beaten it. Based on the ridges found on the

wings of the Morpho butterfly and the veins of nasturtium leaves, the team has added tiny ridges to

a silicon surface. When tested, water bounced off the surface 40% faster than the “limit” before.

Professor Kripa Varanasi, whose work has been published in Nature Journal, believes that this new

technology can be woven into textiles, “Sportswear, lab coats, military clothing, tents - there are a

whole range of situations where you want to stay dry” (Morgan, 2013).

Climate control within clothing is another nanotechnology; it may seem futuristic but is actually

closer than we think to being mainstreamed. An MIT student has created ClimaWare, which acts as a

personal heat and cooling system at the touch of a button. Using this technology he has created a

line of shoes, jackets, and helmets. The clothing has “puck-like inserts” that are placed in areas of

dense blood vessels and little sweating. Although ClimaWare is not the first nano technology to

change climate, it is one of the first lightweight versions, which opens up more applications (Soutter,

2013).

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While another fabric, Kevlar, is not necessarily a new advancement in the nano scale world, it still

inspires innovation. Novana is a fabric, made in Alpharetta, Georgia, that is said to be just as tough

as Kevlar but less expensive. Novana itself is made of “melted polymers from recycled plastics,

including auto parts, molded into a lightweight material with microscopic structures that absorb and

dissipate energy” (Mccorvey, 2011). Kevlar’s major downside for textile application is the sheer cost

of using it in everyday and mass-market products. With Novana making the benefits of Kevlar

accessible at a lower price point, we will be able to see many new uses for strong fabric within the

field of apparel (Mccorvey, 2011).

Sustainable Resources: Sustainable resources are renewable resources being economically

exploited in such a way that it will not diminish or run out (Google, 2014).

A unique fiber has emerged from a protein in sour milk. Qmilch or Qmilk, developed by a German

biologist/fashion designer Anke Domaske, is pushing boundaries in textiles. The fiber produced is

similar to silk in look and feel but far less expensive and can handle standard washing and care. The

fiber also has been found to create less skin irritation than silk. Approximately 1.9 million tons of

“substandard milk is discarded by the agricultural community in Germany alone” (Frubel, 2013).

While milk is not a typical sustainable resource, this makes for a very eco-friendly and resourceful

fabric as it is made only from the milk that would have otherwise been thrown out. Anke sees the

environmentally friendly fiber as an alternative to cotton and manufactures it in less than an hour

and without using any pesticides (Frubel, 2013).

Another development in the world of sustainable fashion is AirDye. AirDye was developed in

California by Colorep, this dying technique can save between seven and seventy-five gallons of water

while dying only one pound of fabric (Breyer, 2012). The AirDye technology manages the entire

application of color to textiles without the use of water. Even though the process has eliminated

water, it has not eliminated options. With unlimited capabilities this technology can be used to print

both sides of fabric solid, only one side of the fabric, both sides contrasting colors, prints and logos,

and more (AirDye Solutions, 2014).

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Similar to AirDye, smart tailoring saves energy and water when manufacturing garments. Smart

tailoring, created by Siddhartha Upadhyaya, aims to increase fabric efficiency by 15% and reduce

manufacturing time by 50%. This process uses a computer and loom set up called Direct Panel on

Loom (DPOL) to communicate design data like color, pattern, and size to the loom (Grady, 2010).

The loom then weaves the exact pieces needed and wastes no fabric, as no fabric must be cut. This

technique also helps save energy and water by 70-80% used in general garment manufacturing

(Breyer, 2012).

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