Published by Craft Development Institute, Srinagar

Quality Manual forEnforcement ofKashmir Pashmina GI

Page Definitions 021 Introduction 032 KashmirPashminaGISpecifications 043 TestingofKashmirPashmina 054 SamplingforTesting&Certification 065 KashmirPashminaLabel 076 PlacementofKashmirPashminaLabel 087 Certification&Labeling 108 Certification&LabelingCost 129 InspectionBody 1310 Arbiteration 1511 Terms&Conditions 16

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Contents

Certification - Verificationthataparticulargood/itemhasbeenfoundhavingthedesiredqualityandstandardssetforgenuinehandmade‘KashmirPashmina’.Discrepancy - Findingofanysuchreasonsthatsuspectsagivengood/item,ofhavingfeaturesthatarenotincludedasspecificationsforgenuinehandmade‘KashmirPashmina.GI - GeographicalIndicationGI Mark - LogoregisteredasGeographicalIndicationfor‘KashmirPashmina’.Inspection Body - Agroupofpersons,constitutedbyCraftDevelopmentInstituteandTAHAFUZ,meantforensuringandsupervisingthecorrectandlawfuluseoftheKashmirPashminaGIMark.Kashmir Pashmina - AtitlethathasbeenregisteredasaGeographicalIndicationandisindicativeofstandardsandattributesthatarelawfullyspecified.Label - SecureFusionAuthenticationLabel(SFAL)carryingtheKashmirPashminaGIMark.Laboratory - PashminaTesting&QualityCertificationCentre,CDICampus,BagheAliMardanKhan,Nowshera,SrinagarLabeling - TheprocessoftestingandcertifyingaparticulargoodwiththeKashmirPashminaGIMarkSample - Aparticularitem/goodthatisrepresentativeofagivenlotorbatchofitems/goods,meanttobetestedandcertifiedwiththeKashmirPashminaGIMark.Tahafuz - RegisteredProprietorsoftheKashmirPashminaGI.Testing - ThetechnicalprocesstoidentifyallparametersandspecificationssetfortheKashmirPashminaGI.

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Definitions

ThefollowingisaQuality Manualforenforcingthe‘KashmirPashmina’GI.

KashmirPashminahasbeenregisteredundertheGeographicalIndications(GI)ofGoodsActofIndia,havingGINo.46,CertificateNo.97intheClassofGoods23,24and25ason9thDecember2005.

TheGIActhastheprovisionforgeographicallyspecifichandicraftstoberegisteredundertheAct.Theregistrationisanacknowledgementofthefactthatagivenhandicraftisuniqueandisproducedinaparticulararea,withtraditionalknowledgeandskillsthatarespecialtoaregion.

Theeffectoftheregistrationisthatthecraftinquestionisaccordedlegalprotectioninthemarketplace.Nomanufacturer,otherthanthoserecognizedbytheregistrationmayclaimtoproducethatparticularhandicraftorsellitunderthenamerecognizedbytheregistration.

TAHAFUZ,asocietyofKashmiriartisans,registeredundertheJ&KSocitiesActandbearingRegistrationNo.5611-S/2007,arethe“RegisteredProprietors”ofKashmirPashmina.

ThisQuality Mannual intendstodetailoutallnecessaryaspectsintermsofstandardsandbenchmarks,methods,procedures,etc.thatshallprovidethereferenceforensuringproperenforcement,implementationanduseoftheKashmirPashminaGIafterduetestingandcertifictioninacommercialcontext.

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1 Introduction

The“KashmirPashmina”isaregisteredGI(GeographicalIndication),havingNo.46andCertificateNo.97intheClassesofGoods23;YarnsandThreadsforTextileUse,24;TextileandTextileGoodsincludingBedandTableCoversand25;Clothing,ason9thDecember2005.

Asatitle“KashmirPashmina”cannotbeusedotherthanthosesubscribingtothespecificationregardingrawmaterial,productionprocessandfinishedgoodsotherthanthoseregistredasthe“KashmirPashmina”GI.

TheSpecificationsfor“KashmirPashmina”asregisteredundertheGIare:

i. Madeof100%Pashmfibershavingfinenessofupto16Micronsandobtainedfromtheunderfleeceofthemountaingoat‘CapraHiracus’.

ii. AHandWovenfabricbytheArtisansofJammu&Kashmir.

iii.MadeusingHandSpunYarn.

TheGIregistrationmandatesthatonlycraftsproducedinaparticularregionandsoldonlyinaprescribedmannercanbelabeledastheauthenticGI;allotherformsarespuriousandthereforeaninfringementoftheGIrightsofthecommunityregisteredastheproprietorintheGIRegistry.LegalactionmaybeinitiatedagainstthosenotsubscribingtothespecifiedbenchmarksorotherconditionsimpliedundertheGIAct.

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2 Kashmir Pashmina GI Specifications

ThefollowingparameterswillbetestedusingthecorrespondinginstumentsandmethodologytodeterminethespecifiedqualitystandardsprescribedforgenuinehandmadeKashmirPashmina:

No. Parameter to be Tested

Testing Instrument Testing Methodology

01. Origin of Fibre Diffrential Scanning Calorimeter

By testing the termal properties of Kashmir Pashmina Fibre.

02. Finness of Fibre Projection Microscope

By testing the diameter of Kashmir Pashmina Fibre.

03. Spinning Process Twist Tester By testing the twist direction of the Pashmina Yarn which in case of hand spun yarn is to be ‘S’ Twist and ‘Z’ Twist in case of Machine Spinning.

04. Weaving Process Pick Glass By comparing the consistency /variation levels of ends and picks in a given product or item.

TheabovetestsshallbecarriedoutbyPashminaTestingandQualityCertificationCentre(PTQCC).

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3 Testing of “Kashmir Pashmina”

CertificationofagivenlotofgoodsshallbedonebaseduponthetestingofacertainpercentageofitemsthatareselectedusingtheRandom Sampling Method.

IntheRandomSamplingMethod,everyitemofagivenlotwillhaveanequalchanceofbeingusedasasample.However,theBiasedSamplingMethodmayalsobeused,iffoundnecessaryforselectionofaparticularitem.

Thesamplequantitiesfortesting,shallalwaysbe10%ofthetotalnumberofitemstobecertified.Incase,thevalueofagivenpercentageliesinfraction,thesamewouldberoundedtothenextwholenumber.

If any item out of selected samples, is found not adhering to the given specifications, the same lot of goods will be rejected for certification.

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4 Sampling for Testing & Certification

TheSecureFusionAuthenticationLabels(SFAL)shallbeusedforCertificationofgenuine‘KashmirPashmina’.EachlabelwillhaveCovert(hidden;readablebyusingaUltraVioletbasedinstrument)andOvert(visible)informationaswellasauniquenumberthatshallbeusedtorecordtheparticularsofthepartytowhomithasbeenissuedto.Further,eachSFALwillcarryinvisiblenanoparticlesknownasMicrottagant(onlyvisiblebyusinganInfraRedbasedinstrument)havingauniquecodeformulatedspecificallyforKashmirPashmina.

Specifications:

a. Physical Appearance & Dimensions:i. Shape-CircularwithSeratedEdgesii. Size-Diameter:2.5centimeters

b. Overt Text and Visual:i. KashmirPashmina ii. RegisteredGILogoiii. CertifiedGenuineiv. UniqueNumber

c. Covert Text:i. RegisteredGIii. 100%Handmade

d. Care & Handling:i. TheLabelcanbeflatironedfromthereversesideonly,upto

amaximumtempretureof60DegreesCentigrade.TheSFALcannotbeironedusingcalenderingrollers.

ii. TheLabelisnotresistanttodyeing.

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5 “Kashmir Pashmina” Label

TheKashmirPashminaLabelsshallbeputoveragivenitemonlyaftersatisfacyorytestingandverificationofallnecessaryparametersasstatedabove.Labelswillonlybeputonafinishedgood.Thefollowingguidelinesshallbefollowedfortheplacementofalabeloveragivenitem:

a. For Fabric:

TheKashmirPashminaLabelshallbeplacedoverafabricasperthefollowingguidlines:

i. GentsShawl 4.5Inchesfromendslength-wisewithinan approx.itemlengthof106Inches. ii. LadiesShawl 4.5Inchesfromendslength-wisewithinan approx.itemlengthof81Inches. iii. Muffler 4.5Inchesfromendslength-wisewithinan approx.itemlengthof72Inches. iv. Stole 4.5Inchesfromendslength-wisewithinan approx.itemlengthof81Inches. v. Scarf 4.5Inchesfromendslength-wisewithinan approx.itemlengthof45Inches.

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6 Placement of Kashmir Pashmina Label

b. For Made-Ups and Accessories:

TheKashmirPashminaLabelshallonlybeplacedoverfinishedMade-UpsandAccessories,entirelyhavingKashmirPashminafabricasthetruesideofagivenitem.However,thelocationofthelabelmaybedecidedconsideringthedesirabilityoftheAuthorizedUser.TheKashmirPashminaLabelshallnotbeputonsuchMade-UpsandAccesoriesthathaveanyothermaterialcombination/salongwiththeKashmirPashminafabric,overit’strueside.

TheKashmirPashminaqualitycertificationlabelcanonlybeusedafterduetestingofgoodsbyPashminaTestingandQualityCertificationCentre(PTQCC).

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a. Pre-Requisite:

AnypartywishingtoavailCertificationandLabelingof‘KashmirPashmina’,needstofulfillthefollowingcriteria:

i. To be Empaneled with TAHAFUZ

EmpanelmentwithTAHAFUZhasbeenmademandatorytoenabletheeffectivemonitoringofallaspiringusersofKashmirPashminaauthenticationlabelsaswellasgenerateandmaintainacomprehensivedatabaseofsuchusers.TheempanelmentwithTAHAFUZmaybecompletedgiventhefollowing:

- EmpanelmentFee Artisan(selfmanufacturer)–capacityof100productsperannum–EmpanelmentFee:Rs.200

Kharkhanaowner–capacityof100-500productsperannum–EmpanelmentFee:Rs.500

Manufacturer/Exporter–capacityabove1000productsperannum–EmpanelmentFee:Rs.1000

- Affidevit Aself-certificationbytheproducer,citingthathisgoodscomplywithGIKashmirPashminaSpecifications.

ii. To be an Authorized User of ‘Kashmir Pashmina’ GI Mark

‘AuthorisedUser’isanypersonclaimingtobe

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7 Certification & Labeling

theproducerofthegoodsinrespectofwhichageographicalindicationhasbeenregistered.ForbecominganauthorizeduserthepersonhastoapplyinwritingtotheRegistrarGI,intheprescribedmannerandbypayingtherequisitefee.

Onlyan“AuthorisedUser”iseligibletouse thekashmirPashminaGIMark.

b. Certification & Labeling

i. TheAuthorisedUserhastosubmitadetailedlistofallitemsdesiredtobecertifiedandlabelled.AllsuchitemsmusthaveapersonalidentificationcodeoftheAuthorizedUser,inordertoavoidanypossiblemisplacements.

ii. Beforelabelingofanyitem,it’sauthenticity willbecertifiedthroughtestingthatwillbe carriedoutintwostages: 1stStage:SelectionofsamplesbytheInspectionBody 2ndStage:Testingofsamplesinlaboratory

iii.MinimumQuantity

Theminimumquantityofabatchofgoodsthatshallbeacceptedforcertificationandlabeling,atonetimewillbeasfollows:

a. fromaRegisteredTrader 20Nos.b. fromaArtisanManufacturer 10Nos.

c.fromanArtisan 05Nos.

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TheCertificationandLabelingFeeshallbedecidedbyCraftDevelopmentInstitute,SrinagarandTAHAFUZasperthefollowingbreak-upandshallbenotifiedtopublicthroughregionalnewspapers.However,theCertificationandLabelingFeeissubjecttochangesdependingonexternalfactors,fromtimetotime.

CostBreak-Up

i. Label(actualcostoftheSFAL)ii. Testing(testingproceduresandfacilities)iii. Certification(inspectionandlabeling)iv. Administration(logisticsandmanagement)v. Overheads(maintanance,insurance,promotion,etc.)

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8 Certification & Labeling Cost

AspertheguidelinesprovidedintheGIAct,theinspectionbodyconstitutedbyCraftDevelopmentInstituteandTAHAFUZshallberesponsiblefortheoverallmonitoringoftheuseofthekashmirpashminaGImarkwithrespecttomaintainingtherequisitequality,integrityandconsistencyofkashmirpashmina.

Theinspectionbodyshallbeselected/decidedbyTAHAFUZonanannualbasis.

Thedetailsofmembersselectedfortheinspectionbody,shallbenotifiedbyPashminaTestingandQualityCertificationCentre(PTQCC)andTAHAFUZasrequired.

Givenbelowaretherolesandresponsibilitiesenvisagedfortheinspectionbody:

i. Toformulatethebestworkco-ordinationsbetweentheinspectionbodyandPashminaTesting&QualityCertificationCentrestaffforsmoothfunctioningofthisfacility.

ii. Toimplementthesteps,method/procedures,standards,services,norms,rulesandregulationsdevelopedbyKHPPDasformalguidelinesrelatedtotestingandcertificationofKashmirPashmina.

iii. ToscrutinizethecredentialsandotherdocumentsoftheAuthorisedUseronthepresentingofstocksforTesting&Certificationslike;

a. Detailsofstocksandquantity.b. Personalusermarkingoneachproduct.c. Self-certificationandotherrequisitedocuments.

iv. Tocarry‘RandomSelectionSampling’ofstocksforLabTesting&Certification,andtogetapprovalfromtheAuthorisedUserforthesameontheprescribedform.

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9 Inspection Body

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v. TooverseetheprocessofLabTesting&Certificationandtokeepvigilonanybreach/infringementofguidelinesduringthetestingandcertificationprocessbeingcarriedoutunderthePashminaTestingandQualityCertificationCentre.

vi. TokeeprecordsofthedetailsofAuthorisedUsers,theirstocks,outcomesofTesting&Certifications,andfinancialtransactionsforthefutureevaluationandmanagementoftheKashmirPashminaG.I.

vii. Toadvise/recommendonthenecessarychanges/modifications/amendmentsinthesteps,method/procedures,standards,services,norms,rulesandregulationsdevelopedbyKHPPDasformalguidelinesrelatedtotestingandcertificationtoenhancetheperformanceofthewholemechanism.

viii. Toprioritizeandmaximisetheuseofresources,humanandmechanical,toachievepeakresultsfromtheavailableresources.

Incaseofanydispute,anindependentreputedtestingandcertifyingagencyfromthefollowingwouldbeconsultedbaseduponthemutualconsensusofbothdisputedparties.However,allexpensesforthesameshallbebornebythecustomer.

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10 Arbiteration

1. Discrepancies

1.1 Incaseanydiscrepanciesi.e(thequalityofagivenitemdoesnotmatchthespecificationsofKashmirPashmina),arefoundinabatchofgoodsofanAuthorizedUser,empaneledwithTAHAFUZ,forseekingtheKashmirPashminaGIcertification,theentirebatchofgoodswillberejectedfromgettingthedesiredcertification.

1.2 IncaseoffindingadiscrepancyforthesecondtimeinabatchofgoodssubmittedbyanAuthorizedUser,empaneledwithTAHAFUZ,forseekingtheKashmirPashminaGIcertification,theSelf-CertificationAffidavitoftheAuthorizedUser,shallbecomenullandvoidandafreshAffidavitwillneedtobesubmitted(onlyafteraperiodof21dayspostrejectionofagivenbatchofgoods)includingaclausethatnofurtherdiscrepancyshallbefoundinfuture.

1.3 IncaseoffindingadiscrepancyfortheThirdtimeinabatchofgoodssubmittedbyanAuthorizedUser,empaneledwithTAHAFUZ,forseekingtheKashmirPashminaGIcertification,theEmpanelmentoftheAuthorizedUser,withTAHAFUZ,shallbecancelled.Insuchacase,theAuthorizedUserwillneedtore-applyforEmpanelmentwithTAHAFUZandtheapplicationshallonly

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11 Terms & Conditions

beentertainedafteraperiodof40dayspostrejection.

1.4 IncaseoffindingadiscrepancyfortheForthtimeinabatchofgoodssubmittedbyanAuthorizedUser,empaneledwithTAHAFUZ,forseekingtheKashmirPashminaGIcertification,TAHAFUZ/CDIshallinitiateproceedingswiththeGIRegistry,tocanceltheAuthorizedUserregisterationofthedefultingAuthorizedUser.

2. Misuse

2.1IncaseanAuthorizedUserofKashmirPashminaGI,empaneledwithTAHAFUZ,isfoundmisusingtheKashmirPashminaGILabel,inanyform,temperingwithordefacingthelabel,legalactionshallbeinitiatedagainstsuchaperson/agency,aspertheprovisionsprovidedintheChapterVIIInamelyOffences,PenaltiesandProceduresoftheGeographicalIndicationsofGoods(RegistrationandProtection)Act,1999.

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