Reproduction of any portion of this presentation including photos is prohibited without prior...

Reproduction of any portion of this presentation including photos is prohibited without

prior written authorization of OnDrew J Hartigan. [email protected]

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 2008-2011

Page

Track Modification and Application

By: OnDrew J Hartigan

A presentation on the process of modifying Lego train switches to increase functionality and reliability along with a short slide show showing some of there advantages.

Unauthorized reproduction of any portion of this presentation including photos

is prohibited without prior written permission of OnDrew J Hartigan. [email protected] copyright 2008 - 2011

Track modification

• Switches– Crossover– Half curve – Stubby

– other• Track

– Straight– Curve– other

mailto:[email protected]



Getting Started

• Remove metal rails!!!– Removing the metal will make modification

easier and will also make the joint stronger• The only time you shouldn’t remove the metal rail is

track sections shorter than 5 studs




How to remove the rails

• Place a small flathead screwdriver in the small gap between the metal and wiggle it open.







Cut the Plastic

Use a fine tooth saw.

I use a Zona 1/2in 52tpi

Item# ultrathinkerf$5.50Product No. - Kerf - TPI: 35-050 - .008in. - 52TPI35-150 - .008in. - 42TPI35-200 - .008in. - 32TPIhttp://www.zonatool.net/35-050.html


http://www.zonatool.net/35-050.html



Cut the Plastic




Cut and trimmedfor a stubby switch

The donor track is from the opposite switch. Cut as shown and don’t forget to remove the stud on the switch!




Build a jig

•This jig can be used for

both the stubby

and the halfcurve

modifications




Jig installed




Final fit

•Using some plates install the short piece of track your splicing in and trim. Take your time and it will be a perfect fit.

•Next mark and cut a gap for the adjoining track tie to slip into.




Reinforcing the joints

You will need:•Hand saw with a thin fine tooth blade I use a ZONA 1/2in 52tpi hobby saw•X-acto knifes both a chisel blade and a pointed blade•Glue I use zap-a-gap which is CA+ •It’s primarily used in the model aircraft market but it’s the only thing I have found that works well on Lego•1_(1x6) brick •1_(2x2) plate•A small screwdriver or something to poke the reinforcing strips in•Part of a baseplate •Spare brick to build a holding tool

Chisel

blade




Cutting the reinforcement strips

•Build a jig to cut a 1x6 brick using a plate and a 1x8 piece of baseplate as your spacer. If you using a thin bladed saw such as the zona saw pictured this jig will allow you to cut a shim that fits perfectly under the rail. Next push the 2x2 plate onto a baseplate or brick plate and shave all 4 studs off. Be careful not to put your hand in front of the blade.

• Remove the plate from the baseplate and cut corner to corner.




Gluing in the Reinforcement

•Glue in strip on outer rail and trim the piece sticking up on the other side

•Glue in the triangular piece you cut from the plate and trim so it’s flush


Reproduction of any portion of this presentation including photos is prohibited without

prior written authorization of OnDrew J Hartigan. [email protected]

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 2008-2011

Page

Rc track

If you are modifying RC track congratulations you are now done!

please note that unlike modified 9v track, which is incredibly strong when completed, modified RC track is not nearly as strong as unmodified RC track. Care should be taken with this track to ensure it is stored in a safe place and not thrown around.



Installing the rails

Tools you will need

•Track and the rails you removed earlier•Dremel tool with a cut-off blade•Rail nippers or a small pair of wire cutters•X-acto pointed blade




Marking the inside rail to cut

• Lay the inside rail in it’s rightful location and mark the cut location on the rail with the knife. It should be right around26mm from the edge. Cut the sides of the rail with the rail nippers and bend the rail up and down until it separates. Check for fit.




Marking the outside rail to cut

• Setting the outside rail is a little different. Start by laying the rail on the track like you did for the inside rail. mark the rail where it overlaps the metal rail of the switch. DO NOT CUT. Instead make another mark about ¼ inch past the first one. This is where you will want to cut. Next go back to the first line marked and cut the sides only. Pinch the side flaps you just made and bend them off.

It should look

something like this:




Fitting the outside rail

•Here’s where the Dremel tool comes in. Take the metal rail with the top flap and grind the side edges of the flap down slightly.

•Next bend the flap down to a 45degree angle. Using your needle nose pliers pinch the flap about 1/16th of an inch from the bend and bend the flap back straight once. This will leave the flap slightly lower than the top of the rail which will let you slip it under the rail that is still attached to the switch.




Reattaching the rails

• Using a pair of tooth free needle nose pliers pinch the rail tabs to the track.

• Take your time or you will mar the rails.

• CONGRATULATIONS!!

You have now finished your first track modification.




Using your new parts

• With the added flexibility of your newly modified parts you're on your way to making a more realistic,more reliable model railroad.

•No longer do you

have to worry about

S curves and the vast

amounts of space

wasted with

unmodified switches

and track.




Unmodified verses modified

Notice the “S” curve is gone and the over all required space is cut in half.

S-CURVE




Applications

On the next few pages you will see modified track in all it’s glory. You will notice that not only are new angles possible but with a few slight modifications stock Lego switches are not only easier to use but a lot more fun and practical.




Smooth transitions

•In this photo I used 3 half curve switches.

•This is really a simple demonstration of the advantages of custom switches but as you will see in the following slides custom switches really allow the user to create the well functioning layout he or she wishes.




45 degrees Anyone?

This is something that is very difficult with unmodified switches but with a couple half curve or stubby switches this is really just a snap.

Note only the switches are modified all other parts are stock.




Switched Interloc

This is really the reason I got into modifying switches.

Again only the switches are modified. Further this can be made with either half curve or stubby switches.




A Junction

Stubby’s gone wild!This really begins to show how custom switches broaden the possibilities of Lego train track.

This junction uses 3 stubby switches, and 2 half straights




Again all stubby switches but notice how compact this yard is.

A Small Yard




An internal yard leadThis is something that is absolutely impossible without modified switches. Using 2 half curve switches, 4 stubby switches 2 ¼ straights, 2 ¾ straights and 1 pair of parallelograms “for the crossovers” This setup shows how a few parts can really bring realism and functionality into an otherwise extremely limited system.




9v Double CrossoverI first made this in late 2005. As of may/1/2008 I had built 2 of these for customers. They are the only 9v double crossovers I know to exist.




9v Three way SwitchThis is the second 3-way switch I’ve made. In this picture I chose to attach stubby switches to it to create crossovers, all though as you’ll see in the next slide I am by no means limited to this arrangement.

Note only the switches are modified all other parts are stock.




Doubble interlock with Single slip and 3 way

note: the single slip is RC track and cannot be made in 9v




Custom interlock




RC single slip switch

I created this single slip switch in January/February 2008 mostly just to challenge myself.




A modification for clearanceEver wanted the switch throw on the correct side of the track or extraclearance for that big boy?

This modification which only takes 20mins to complete, eliminates Clearance problems with the throw8-wide and Longer rail cars need.




Brickshelf account: Konrad

Atrue double slip switch




Converting RC track to 9vIn general the idea is simple: add something conductive to the top of the plastic rail and presto you have 9v train track

the reality is it works but one of the lego companies features of 9v track is it is self cleaning. Why is this bad?

Lego 9v train motor wheels are made to rub the inside top edge of the metal rail ensuring conductivity while cleaning the rail. The problem is the wheels rub the rails and any tape on the rail will eventually be rubbed through/ away.




How long does it take for a train to rub through the tape? It varies on the quality and the type of metal tape.

Aluminum tape is very conductive but it will rub through in an hour or two at best. stainless steel tape is better but you will still have to worry about it rubbing through.

Solutions? Replace the tape often or find another alternative like replacing the rails all together.

Converting RC track to 9v continued




brickshelf account:skaakoo

RC track converted to 9v with metal tape and modified into a crossover. i’m not sure why it was done but it was well done




Brickshelf account: Grunneger

hand made track appears to be o scale track fastened to 1x2 plates with

modified rail joiners




ME models metal rails

This product was recently announced on Lugnet and other sites.

Please attend the Train forum where iv’e been told you will get some hands on time with this product and hear announcements about other products.

http://me-models.com




Thank youIf you have any questions about modifying track

please feel free to contact me via email at:

[email protected]

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