rhc Uarsity Outdoor Club

Journal

VOLUME XXX 1987tssN 0524- 5613

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Væou*t. Can-t-

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Tk« Varsit y Outdoor Ckb

Journa l Varsit y  Outdoo r  Club 

University of Bri t ish Columbia Box 98, Student Union Building

6138 Student Union Moll Vancouver, B.C., Canada V 6 T 2A5

VOLUME  XXX  1987 

ISSN 0524-5613

The Kniveuihj ef DtitUh Cotumtta

Vancouver, Canada

1

ENRICO' S LAS T CLIM B

The worl d o f th e height s spok e t o you ,

and yo u responded :

The star s dance d i n you r mind ,

more clearl y tha n w e eve r hope d t o see .

You clothe d th e crysta l swee p o f th e mountain s

i n a beaut y no t alway s ther e fo r us .

You exclaime d you r aw e on e nigh t

fro m ou r smal l suspende d ledge ,

as th e auror a writhe d an d th e orang e glo w o f far-of f lightnin g cloud s

pulse d throuq h th e fros t o f ou r sky ,

and I share d you r wonder .

Still , whe n clou d an d bitin g sno w obscure d thes e sights ,

and ou r worl d becam e a har d balle t o f point s o n 1c e

alon g a poorl y glimpse d path ,

yo u kep t th e mountai n a s you r friend .

So perhap s w e shoul d wonde r no t

tha t whe n thi s journe y dre w s o nea r it s end ,

thos e pinnacle s an d endles s height s cam e t o crav e

so devou t a son ,

and yo u wer e take n fro m us .

But th e star s stil l whee l

and th e mountain s stil l soar ,

and you r visio n wil l b e wit h u s always .

Richar d Howes , earl y Augus t 198 7

Enric o Kind l wa s a n activ e an d popula r member o f th e Varsit y Outdoo r Clu b and a member o f th e Executiv e i n 198 6 an d 1987 . Enrico' s othe r passio n was astronomy , a subjec t whic h h e wa s studyln q toward s th e degre e Docto r of Philosophy . O n th e firs t o f Augus t 1987 , Enric o wa s tragicall y kille d durin g th e fina l sectio n o f a descen t fro m Ht . Robson , i n th e Canadia n Rockies , followin g a successfu l clim b o f th e Nort h Face .

11

The President' s Messag e Richar d Howe s

Leavin g a Leqacy .

My involvemen t wit h th e Clu b Executiv e ha s expose d me t o a ver y specia l qrou p o f people . Thei r commitmen t t o makin g ou r members ' tim e wit h th e Clu b a n enjoyabl e experienc e ha s neede d littl e encouragement , an d thei r concer n fo r al l aspect s o f th e outdoo r experienc e ha s mean t tha t thei r wor k ha s no t bee n limite d merel y t o th e scop e o f thei r constitutiona l duties . Withou t regre t I ca n sa y tha t my mos t difficul t tas k a s Presiden t ha s bee n tha t o f steerin g th e sometime s boisterou s enthusias m o f th e Executiv e member s throug h th e ofte n tortuou s cours e o f th e agenda s fo r ou r weekl y meetings . My gratitud e thu s goe s t o my Executive , an d als o t o th e man y othe r member s wh o devote d thei r tim e an d energ y t o th e Club .

Our majo r short-ter m qoal s thi s pas t yea r hav e bee n t o cate r t o th e beginne r wit h a variet y o f easie r trip s an d instructiona l course s an d increas e th e approachabilit y o f th e nucleu s of experience d members , ye t our greates t concer n ha s bee n t o creat e somethin g whic h wil l endure .

The flurr y o f activit y whic h th e Clu b experience d durln q It s hu t buildin g perio d i s severa l year s qone , an d w e ar e no w initiatin g a timel y and affordabl e progra m fo r th e two-phas e constructio n o f climbin g wall s o n th e UB C campu s i n memoria l t o Enric o Kindl . Ninetee n eighty-eigh t shoul d se e th e installatio n o f on e climbin g wal l withi n a n existin g building , whil e th e Club' s lon g ter m goa l i s th e eventua l constructio n o f a majo r facilit y a s ^ar t o f th e capita l acquisitio n projec t o f th e UB C Athleti c programs .

The mos t value d legacie s w e ca n leave , however , ar e no t thos e constructe d i n ston e an d mortar , woo d an d nails , bu t ar e rathe r th e memorie s tha t member s tak e awa y wit h the m o f experience s i n th e mountain s the y hav e com e t o love , an d o f th e peopl e wit h who m thes e experience s hav e bee n shared . Huts , climbin g walls , an d othe r specia l place s ar e important , bu t onl y insofa r a s the y hel p t o mak e possibl e memorabl e times , and thes e memorie s ar e th e maai c fro m whic h dream s an d inspiratio n ma y arise .

Paradoxically , perhap s th e most , long-lastin g legac y whic h w e ca n leav e a s a clu b i s Importan t no t b y it s relevanc e t o ou r clu b member s bu t by it s Intrinsi c worth : thi s i s th e preservatio n o f natura l areas . We ar e i n particula r makin q som e smal l effor t t o preven t th e despoliatio n o f th e Smok e Bluff s a t Squamis h an d th e Stei n Valley . Whil e par t o f ou r motivatio n t o d o thi s come s fro m anticipate d enjoymen t o f thes e areas , w e ar e doin g thi s chiefl y becaus e ther e woul d b e somethin q profoundl y disturbin g i n thei r loss , regardles s o f huma n involvement .

Our strengt h a s a clu b ha s alway s bee n th e hiq h leve l o f activit y o f our members . Tha t s o man y peopl e hav e s o ofte n bee n inspire d t o ventur e fort h an d creat e memorabl e experience s fo r themselve s an d other s i s th e aspec t o f ou r entit y a s a clu b whic h i s th e leas t subjec t t o an y effor t a t stimulation , an d ye t i s t o b e cherishe d th e most . Occasionall y on e perso n stand s ou t i n thi s respect , a s di d th e lat e Enric o Kindl . Tragically , Enric o ha s gone , bu t hi s enthusias m an d lov e fo r th e mountain s continue s t o infec t u s all . I n thi s wa y i s th e endurin g importanc e o f th e leaac y o f memorie s an d idea s t o b e mos t clearl y seen .

111

Journa l Editor' s Messag e Jef f Greenwoo d

I a m no t her e t o blo w an y trumpets , too t an y recorders , o r mak e

unmusica l sound s o n othe r assorte d Instruments , hu t I thin k tha t th e VOC

has bee n happ y an d prosperou s thi s las t year . I hop e tha t th e 198 7

Journa l give s thi s Impression .

Havin g lot s o f wor k commitment s coincidin g wit h th e productio n o f th e

Journa l thi s year , I decide d tha t settin g an d stickin g t o deadline s wit h

militar y precisio n wa s th e onl y wa y t o go . Unfortunately , a fe w o f th e

genera l membershi p weren' t prepare d fo r thes e bruta l tactic s an d greete d

the m wit h horro r an d disbelief . Onc e a pe n wa s force d int o thei r hands ,

however , man y o f the m ros e t o th e occasio n an d produce d som e fin e

articles . Eve n a s I writ e this , I believ e tha t ou r Illustriou s Presiden t

1s Immortalisin g hi s word s o f wisdo m o n pape r fo r al l o f u s t o read . I f

he Isn't , the n I'l l jus t hav e t o . . . .

Many thank s t o Johan , Laurie , Richard , Nick , Lisa , an d other s fo r

thei r hel p an d support , an d mos t o f al l t o th e writer s wh o mad e thi s

Journa l wha t i t Is .

i v

TABLE O F CONTENTS

Paoe

Enrico' s Las t Clim b Richar d Howe s i The President' s Messag e Richar d Howe s 1 1 Journa l Editor' s Messag e Jef f Greenwoo d 11 1 VOC Executiv e 1987-8 8 1 VOC Executiv e 1986-8 7 1 Gra d New s Jef f Greenwoo d 2 The Socia l Scen e Mik e Hayde n 4 Banque t 198 7 Jef f Greenwoo d 5

WINTER 1986-8 7

Mt . Jame s Turne r Murie l Pachec o 7 The Assaul t o n Atwel l Ji m Chesk o 1 1

SPRING 198 7

Birkenhea d Mountai n Ti m Boot h 1 4 Ue Neve r Foun d th e Cabin ! —

Dickso n Rang e Ti m Boot h 1 5 Mt . Si r Richar d Dav e Robinso n lf i Yosemlt e Valle y Jef f Greenwoo d 2 0 Marbl e Canyo n Dav e Robinso n 2 5

SUMMER 198 7

Anderso n Rive r Valley-Ya k Pea k Murie l Pachec o 2 7 Forbidde n Mountai n Cynthi a Hamilto n 2 9 Simpleton s o n Sless e Richar d Howe s 3 0 Mount Hozomee n Gre q Statte r 3 9 Mount Baker : Nort h Ridg e And y Pachec o 4 0 James Turne r Jud y Meedha m 4 3 Mount . Robi e Rei d Murie l Pachec o 4 4 Shattere d Dream s Richar d Howe s 4 7 Vie w Fro m a Hospita l Windo w Richar d Howe s 5 6 Mount Rexfor d Jud y Needha m 5 6 Viennese—Eas t Ridq e Murie l Pachec o 5 7 Aroun d th e Yuko n i n 1 4 Day s Stev e Dod s 5 9 A Weeken d i n Mid-Auqust :

A Sin n o f Declinin n Time s Ji m Chesk o 6 1

AUTUHN 19B 7

Mount Matie r And y Pachec o 6 4 Mount Habric h Marku s Kellerhal s 6 6 Rhododendro n Jud y Needha m 6 7

. Lonqhik e '8 7 Bra d Nixo n 6 8 VOC 198 7 Glacie r Schoo l Rut h Brighous e 7 0 Glacie r Schoo l Lis a Mood y 7 2 Mount Brunswic k Nic k Folkar d 7 4 Good Time s a t Squamis h Eri c Clemso n 7 5 Smoke Bluffs—Rai n Get s i n

Your Eye s Mic k Folkar d 7 6

WINTER 1987-8 8

'•/inte r Ascen t o f Moun t Blackstra p M1k e Hayde n 7 8 Joshu a Tre e Theres a Duynste e 8 1 Stif f Littl e Fingers :

Joshu a Tre e at . Christma s Nic k Folkard/Marku s Kellerhal s 8 4

Paqe

Adventure s i n Paradi s Lauri e Newel l 85 Walkin g o n th e Wil d je Geof f Harri s 88 Roger' s Pas s Ne w Yea r Tri p Paul Stolor z 96 Diamon d Hea d th e Har d Way Chri s Bon1ngton/N1c k Folkar d 98 Yakkin g o n th e Seymou r Geof f Harri s 99 Winte r Longhik e N1ck Folkar d 102 A Shor t Sk 1 Clos e t o Home Richar d Howe s 103 A Snowcav e o n Brandywln e Fer n Hletkam p 104

SPECIAL FEATURES

My Memorie s o f Enric o Chang Kwo n K1 m 106 The Federatio n o f Mountai n

Club s o f Britis h Columbi a R.W. Ho i comb e 109 Wanderin g Aroun d i n th e Loca l

Mountain s Pete r Ston e 111 U.B.C . Intramural s Jef f Greenwoo d 116 A Midwinte r Ascen t o f Mt . Rainie r Richar d Howe s 118

And No w a Wor d fro m ou r Sponsor s . 120

- 1 -

VOC

Presiden t

Vice-Presiden t

Secretar y

Treasure r

Quartermaste r

Publi c Relation s Office r

Trip s Coordinato r

Membershi p Chairma n

Archivis t

Publication s Office r

Project s Coordinato r

FMCBC Delegat e

riV E 1987-8 8

Richar d Howe s

Mik e Hayde n

Jennife r Williams/Murie l Pachec o

Pete r Ston e

Enric o Kindl/Bra d Nixo n

Andy Pachec o

Marku s Kellerhals/N1c k Folkar d

Heathe r Bur y

Theres a Godi n

Jef f Greenwoo d

Stev e Dod s

Theres a Duynste e

VOC EXECUTIV E 1986-8 7

Presiden t Rob Driscol l

Vice-Presiden t Dave Robinso n

Secretar y Bil l Richard s

Treasure r Pete r Ston e

Quartermaste r Richar d Howe s

Publi c Relation s Office r Paul Rap p

Trip s Coordinato r Ric h Lechleitne r

Membershi p Chairma n Theres a Godi n

Archivis t Enric o Kind l

Publication s Office r Denis e Har t

Project s Coordinato r Ji m Chesk o

FMCBC Delegat e Anit a Miettune n

- 2 -

Gra d Mews Jef f Greenwoo d

Marku s Kellerhal s ha s gon e t o Montreal , an d wil l b e bac k I n March .

T1m Boot h I s workin g a t Oxfor d Universit y an d I s returnin g I n April/May .

Bern l Clau s an d Stev e Gran t ar e bot h o n th e Board , o f Director s fo r th e

Mountai n Equipmen t Coop . Pete r Jordan , Ander s Ourom , an d Jacque s BHInsk l

ar e runnin g I n th e curren t election . Ander s 1 s livin g an d workin g I n

Squamlsh , an d recentl y too k par t I n th e Hawai i Iro n Man .

Darlen e Anderso n I s workin g I n Nelson , Ne w Zealand .

Denls e Har t ha s graduate d I n Forestry . Sh e 1 s currentl y cyclin g an d

hikin g 1 n Ne w Zealan d an d Australia .

Pete r Ce lHer s ha s als o bee n travellin g 1 n Ne w Zealand , an d I s of f t o

Munic h 1 n Marc h fo r a post-doc .

Bets y Fletche r an d Bria n Haddingto n ar e of f t o Ne w Zealan d 1 n Februar y t o

trave l fo r a fe w months .

Dave Wil l lam s I s a t th e Universit y o f Hawai i fo r a two-yea r post-do c

(becomin g a beac h bum) .

Dave Robinso n I s o n a worl d tour .

Ja y Pag e an d Sharo n McDonal d ar e gettin g marrie d thi s spring .

Paul a Burgerjo n an d Graha m Underhil l ar e engaged .

Kevi n Haber l 1 s servin g a s a directo r fo r th e FMCBC an d 1 s th e Alpin e

Club' s Regiona l Representative . Bruc e Blackwel l 1 s als o heavil y involve d

i n th e FMCBC.

Audre y Pearso n ha s returne d fro m travel s an d stud y I n Franc e an d ha s

starte d he r Master s I n Forestr y a t UBC.

Ann Rahme i s studyin g a t SF U . . . .

Rei n Raudsep p an d Wlestk e hav e a daughter , Maija , bor n las t May .

- 3 -

Leisbe t Croockewi t an d Pierr e Beaudr y ar e gettin g marrie d (o r s o w e

believe) .

Bra d Boyl e i s recentl y bac k fro m doin g zoolog y wor k i n Californi a an d

Baja .

Joh n Pringl e i s stil l i n Squamish , presumabl y workin g o n hi s book .

Rob Driscol l i s pluggin g awa y a t me d schoo l . . . s o 1 s Erik a Kellerhals .

Andy Pachec o an d Murie l ar e stil l i n Vancouver . And y is . startin g hi s

Ph.D . i n Chemistr y a t UBC.

Ji m Chesk o i s lookin g fo r th e meanin g o f lif e b y takin g art s course s a t

UBC.

Paul Ka o 1 s doin g firs t yea r graduat e studie s i n Chemistr y a t UBC.

Trevo r Norma n i s workin g fo r a pharmaceutica l compan y I n Calgary .

Kobus Barnar d an d Emil y Butle r ar e livin g i n Burnaby ; Kohu s i s workin g an d

studyin g compute r scienc e a t SFU , an d Emil y i s workin g a s a freelanc e

artist .

Chri s Lagu e i s happil y marrie d an d awaitin g hi s firs t child .

Bil l Durtle r ha s a goo d jo b i n Enqineerina , a fanc y sport s car , an d I s

livin g i n Richmond .

Paul Philip s i s marrie d t o Juli e Ourom , an d 1 s hac k a t UBC. doin g research .

- 4 -

The Socia l Scen e Hik e Hayde n

Sumner Reunio n Party . Septembe r 198 7

Thi s yea r w e hel d a potluc k dinne r 1 n th e garde n roo m a t th e Graduat e

Studen t Centre . Apar t fro m th e tof u an d alfalf a muffi n scar e th e nigh t

went of f withou t a hitch . Th e hug e turnou t (Includin g lot s o f ne w

members) go t th e yea r of f t o a grea t start .

Longhike . 3- 4 Octobe r 198 7

Once agai n Longhik e wa s a hug e succes s (i n spit e o f everythin g tha t Mothe r

Natur e coul d la y he r hand s upon) . Bra d Nixo n 1 s no w thinkin g o f quittin g

schoo l t o ope n u p a caterin g business . Se e hi s stor y fo r th e details .

Hallowee n Party . 3 1 Octobe r 198 7

The Hallowee n part y wa s hel d a t Joh n Pringle' s hous e I n Squamlsh . John' s

neighbo r pu t o n th e firewor k sho w an d als o oicke d a strange r of f th e

street s t o judg e th e costumes . Firs t priz e wen t t o Marti n Johnso n (alia s

Death) . Meanwhil e ou t bac k abou t 2 0 VOC'er s carve d u p a storm . Afte r th e

pul p stoppe d flyin g th e tea m o f And y an d Murie l Pachec o an d Brando n

Konova l cam e ou t o n to p wit h th e bes t Jac k 0'Lantern . A n honorabl e

mentio n goe s t o Chri s Laurl n an d Bruc e Falrle y fo r th e mos t mutilate d

pumpki n (Leroy) . Th e bi g questio n 1s , "Wh y ar e ther e alway s lot s o f

apple s lef t ove r afte r VOC Hallowee n parties? "

Skatin g Party . 1 3 Novembe r 198 7

A smashin g succes s (literally) ! About . 7 0 peopl e showe d u p t o pla y hockey ,

Britis h Bulldog , Re d Rover , an d probabl y hal f a doze n othe r thing s I won' t

mention . Th e usua l bee r an d pizz a sessio n laste d lat e int o th e evening .

Down Unde r Party . Novembe r 198 7

A farewel l part y a t Anit a Miettunen' s house . Ever y othe r perso n i n tha t

livlngroo m wa s o n his/he r wa y t o visi t Darlen e Anderso n i n Ne w Zealand .

Why a m I stil l 1 n Vancouver ?

Christma s Party . 1 1 Decembe r 198 7

A quie t part y hel d a t Bil l Durtler' s hous e i n Richmond . Sant a eve n foun d

tim e t o ge t awa y fro m th e book s fo r a while .

- 5 -

Skatin g Party . 1 4 Januar y 198 8

Fort y peopl e playin g socce r wit h a puck ? O n skates ? Enoug h said ! Fina l

scor e wa s zip-all . Rematc h nex t year—b e there !

Winte r Longhike . 30-3 1 Januar y 198 8

A whol e troup e o f VOC'er s soen t th e weeken d u p o n Cypres s Mountain . Foo d

and Scruple s seeme d t o b e th e orde r o f th e da y u p a t th e Scou t cabi n o n

Saturda y evening . Se e th e article , "It' s Chil i A t Cypress " b y Nic k

Folkar d fo r details .

Banque t 198 7 Jef f Greenwoo d

The Broke n Boar d Awar d wen t t o Pete r Ston e fo r hi s cornice-jumpin g

(o r shoul d I sa y falling ) exploit s o n Th e Sphin x an d fo r skiin g o n a

broke n ankl e a t McGillivra y Pass . Ric h Lechleitne r wa s presente d wit h th e

Lovin g Cup , jus t s o h e know s there' s lif e an d lov e afte r doin g a Ph.D . o n

"bu g butts. " Pete r Celliers , Darlen e Anderson , Chri s Lague , Ti m Booth ,

and Pete r Ston e earne d a Goo n Awar d fo r leavin g a clu b rop e behin d o n th e

Eas t Lion . Murie l Pachec o presente d a Flash y Pant s Awar d t o And y Pachec o

and Jef f Greenwoo d fo r display s mad e (du e t o defectiv e clothing ) o n th e

James Turne r tri p an d a t th e Smok e Bluffs . And y Pachec o presente d Ro b

Driscol l wit h a Golde n Juma r Awar d t o remin d Ro b o f hi s climbin g escapade s

i n Yosemit e wit h Pete r Croft . Th e mos t activ e ne w member wa s Jef f

Greenwood , wh o receive d a top o ma p o f th e Mt . Loqa n area .

Denls e Har t presente d a numbe r o f journa l prizes . Terr y Jarvi s wo n

th e priz e fo r bes t journa l articl e fo r th e secon d yea r running , an d agai n

receive d a hal f cas e o f Cok e fo r hi s efforts . Ti m Boot h wo n a pe n fo r

bein g th e mos t prolifi c writer , wit h si x article s t o hi s credit . Th e

"Epi c Clos e t o Home" priz e wa s share d b y Enric o Kind ! an d Murie l Pachec o

fo r thei r tale s o f climbin g th e Eas t Lio n b y headlamps . The y eac h wo n

headlam p batteries . Fo r th e "Epi c Fa r fro m Home, " Darlen e Anderso n wa s

th e winne r fo r he r stor y o n mountaineerin g adventure s i n Mexico . A s

Darlen e wa s no t present , th e priz e ( a bo x o f band-aids ) wa s awarde d t o

Dave Hil l jams , th e her o o f th e epic .

Ji m Haher l wa s th e judg e o f th e VOC Phot o Competition . Richar d Howe s

won firs t priz e overal1 , an d Anit a Miettune n an d Chri s Lagu e wer e secon d

and third .

- 6 -

Paul Star r wa s 'th e ques t speake r fo r th e banquet . Hi s tal k an d slid e

sho w wer e entitle d "Climbin g i n th e Stlklne. " Pau l relate d severa l

mountaineerin g trip s tha t h e di d wit h D1c k Culber t an d Fre d Dougla s t o th e

Stlkin e Valle y I n Northwester n B.C. , an d showe d a numbe r o f slide s o f th e

area . I t wa s a n entertainin g an d Informativ e slid e show , an d al l thos e

presen t 1 n th e audienc e coul d appreciat e th e reward s an d difficultie s o f

climbin g 1 n suc h a rugge d an d remot e place . N o on e .wil l forge t th e slide s

of th e precipitou s knife-edge d ridg e o n th e Devil' s Thumb . Than k yo u ver y

much Pau l fo r a grea t presentation .

- 7 -

WINTER 1986-8 7

HT. JAMES TURNER

Murie l Pachec o Februar y 19-22 , 198 7

Mt . Jame s Turne r ha d bee n a n objectiv e And y ha d long considered . T o

anyon e wh o ha s climbe d Wedge , i n fact , I' m sur e th e though t ma y hav e

occurre d a s well , a s Jame s Turner' s shoulde r an d ridg e ar e clearl y visibl e

frop i th e summit . Th e onl y deterren t t o mor e frequen t ascents , I believe ,

i s it s remoteness . I t too k u s tw o day s skiin g t o reac h th e shoulder , a

strenuou s objectiv e fo r thre e beginnin g skiers . I hav e n o ide a ho w i t

rate s wit h th e mor e experience d winte r mountainee r (And y an d I ar e

admitte d "rock " fanatic s an d summer mountaineers , whil e Jef f i s ne w t o

mountaineerin q himself) .

Afte r intens e scrutin y o f th e map , w e decide d o n a n approac h rout e u p

th e ridg e jus t sout h o f Rethe l Creek , knowin q th e Wedgemount trai l t o b e

stee p an d bushy , an d preferrin g th e shallo w contour s o f th e ridge . Quit e

awar e o f ou r tendenc y fo r lat e starts , w e decide d tha t thi s tim e w e woul d

slee p i n th e parkin g lo t Wednesda y evenin g t o mak e sur e o f a n earl y

start . We drov e i n tha t evenin q afte r dinne r an d se t u p ou r tent , aettin g

t o be d a t a reasonabl e hour . Unfortunately , I woul d advis e other s no t t o

follo w thi s plan , a s severa l time s durin g th e nigh t w e wer e aive n th e

impressio n tha t w e ha d se t u p cam p o n th e trai n track s an d wer e abou t t o

be flattened . Needles s t o say , w e wok e u p earl y th e nex t mornin q (6:0(1) ,

cooke d u p som e oatmeal , an d se t of f u p th e loggin g roa d (7:30) , exhauste d

befor e th e wor k wa s t o begin . Th e weathe r wa s no t encouraging ; sno w bega n

t o fal l a s w e trudqe d u p th e loggin g road . I ha d bee n keepin g trac k o f

th e weathe r report s fo r th e pas t wee k an d maintaine d tha t it . wa s sur e t o

improv e (luckil y I wa s rinht) . Jef f wa s no t s o convinced , a s th e weathe r

had bee n anythin q bu t goo d i n Vancouver . I don' t thin k And y eve n notice d

th e weather .

Climbin o th e ridg e wen t uneventfully . We did , however , en d u p

walkin g i n sno w u p t o ou r knee s fo r a lo t o f th e wa y (a t leas t i t wasn' t

breakabl e crust) . Afte r ascendin g 500 0 ft . w e stoppe d jus t 10 0 ft . belo w

th e Wedge/Parkhurs t co l an d bega n diggin g ou r sno w cav e (w e ha d decide d t o

sav e o n weigh t b y leavin g th e ten t behind) . Th e sno w cav e wa s finall y

finishe d i n th e darkness , I mad e a quic k dinner , an d w e wen t directl y t o

sleep .

The nex t mornin n w e gaine d th e co l an d traverse d u p t o th e nex t col ,

jus t belo w th e nort h ridg e o f Wedae . We ha d decide d t o tak e I t eas y tha t

- 8 -

day an d sav e th e climbin g o f th e pea k fo r th e followin g day . Fortunately ,

ther e wa s no t muc h elevatio n t o gai n an d i t wa s a beautifu l sunn y day .

The sno w wa s great . We lazil y admire d an d too k photo s o f Wedge an d th e

surroundin o peak s (w e migh t hav e broke n a worl d recor d fo r th e mos t

picture s o f Wedge , fro m al l angle s an d al l time s o f th e day) . B y th e

- 9 -

afternoo n w e ha d rounde d som e smalle r peak s an d J.T . cam e Int o view . Fro m

ther e w e mad e a bee-lin e fo r th e peak , eac h o f u s breakin g ou r ow n trai l

t o ge t a n unobstructe d vie w o f th e nort h face , lik e pilgrim s draw n t o

Mecca. Nothin g coul d sto p u s now! ! . . . an d then , th e inevitabl e ma p

interpretatio n error . What w e ha d envisione d a s a shallo w travers e t o th e

wid e shoulde r befor e th e oea k wa s i n fac t a 30 0 ft . descen t Int o a valle y

followe d b y a stee p ascen t o f 70 0 ft . o n a n unconsolidate d sno w slop e

shadowe d b y a coupl e o f impressiv e cornices . We wer e no t enthusiastic ,

but decide d i t woul d b e bes t t o gai n th e shoulde r t o ge t a vie w o f rout e

possibilitie s fo r th e followin g day . We floundere d u p th e slop e an d wer e

much relieve d t o leav e tha t par t o f th e approac h behin d us . We quickl y

foun d a sno w drif t an d bega n diggin g ou r cave . Dinne r an d te a wer e mad e

usin a Jeff' s headlam p fo r illuminatio n a s bot h Andy' s an d min e seeme d

unabl e t o wor k i n th e cold . We soo n settle d i n t o slee p i n th e comfor t o f

our sno w cave .

The niah t turne d ou t t o b e ver y windy . Eve n thoug h Jef f ha d buil t a

wal l t o protec t us , th e win d cam e in , brinnin o wit h i t a laye r o f snow . I

don' t thin k I slep t a t al l tha t night , imaginin g a fearfu l scenari o o f u s

tryin g t o fin d ou r wa y hac k i n a ragin g storm . Finally , w e couldn' t stan d

it . an y longe r an d decide d t o ge t movin g a t 4:3 0 a.m. . We looke d ou t t o

se e swirlin g cloud s aroun d u s bu t natche s o f star s above . A s w e brewe d

te a an d force d ou r fee t int o ou r boots , th e sk y bega n t o clea r abov e us .

We weren' t sur e tha t th e weathe r woul d hold , bu t we' d b e damne d i f w e ha d

come al l tha t wa y t o giv e u p withou t a fight . We chos e t o d o a rout e u p

th e southeas t fac e o f th e mountai n a s th e ma p contour s indicate d tha t thi s

was likel y t o b e th e easies t wa y t o th e top . We ski-traverse d throug h a

notc h leadin g t o th e bas e o f th e southeast , side , an d fro m ther e w e kicke d

step s i n sof t sno w u p a wid e gully . Befor e th e gull y narrowed , w e

traverse d lef t ove r mixe d roc k an d sno w t o anothe r narrowe r gully . A t

thi s poin t th e sno w wa s les s consolidate d an d a crus t ha d forme d ove r i t

i n places , makin g lif e a littl e unpleasan t fo r thos e behin d th e leader , a s

shower s o f sno w chunk s wer e common (on e mov e o n roc k adde d a littl e

variety) . R y th e tim e I reache d th e knife-edge d crest , i t ha d bee n

snowin q fo r abou t hal f a n hou r an d w e wer e gettin g a bi t anxiou s abou t

startin g back . And y calle d up , "Ho w doe s I t loo k fro m there? " Al l tha t I

coul d se e fro m my bela y stanc e wa s a bum p t o my right , s o I replied , "Eas y

fo r a while! " When And y go t t o me , h e scramble d u p t o th e bum p an d

happil y reporte d h e couldn' t se e anythin g higher—th e couloi r ha d le d

almos t directl y t o th e summit ! Jef f an d I joine d hi m joyously , an d spen t

jus t enoug h tim e ther e t o ge t ou r "hero " shot s taken .

- 1 0 -

We quickl y descende d t o camp , th e actua l clim b havin g take n n o mor e

tha n tw o hour s return . We wer e gla d I t wa s suc h a straightforwar d clim b

as 1 t wa s th e firs t winte r summi t fo r al l thre e o f us . Ou r thing s wer e

quickl y packed , an d agai n th e weathe r bega n t o clear . We decide d t o hea d

straigh t fo r th e Wedgemount Lak e cabin . Ther e wa s a lo t o f distanc e t o

cove r 1 n th e tim e remainin g bu t wit h littl e elevatio n t o gain ; besides , w e

wer e determine d no t t o buil d anothe r sno w cave - (sno w cave s ma y b e

fantasti c t o slee p I n bu t the y tak e a lo t o f energ y t o build) . Th e su n

came ou t an d visibilit y wa s exce l 1 en t—on e couldn' t hav e aske d fo r more .

We mad e I t t o th e cabi n jus t a s th e ligh t wa s wanin g an d at e wha t wa s lef t

of ou r food . And y refuse d a bage l wit h crea m cheese , preferrin g Instea d

t o fr y himsel f som e chees e fo r supper . I recal l hi m mumblin g somethin g

abou t a cravin g fo r a pizza , s o I gues s tha t wa s th e closes t thin g h e

coul d ge t t o It . I wen t t o bed , conten t tha t al l w e ha d I n fron t o f u s

was a marke d trai l an d snow y loggln q roa d t o th e car .

The nex t mornin g w e go t ou t o f th e cabi n a t aroun d 9:00 . Th e trai l

was no t wel l marked . I n som e place s on e coul d se e neo n marker s ever y

thre e feet , an d 1 n other s w e wandere d aroun d searchin g fo r wha t woul d b e

eithe r fade d markin g tap e o r brow n dot s o f pain t o n tre e trunks . "I 'l l b e

gla d whe n w e ge t t o th e loggin g road, " I though t t o myself . "Fro m ther e I

ca n jus t sk i dow n t o th e car. " Well , I 'v e learne d neve r t o forge t th e

phrase , "It ' s neve r ove r til l It' s over. " When w e finall y reache d th e

loggin g roa d w e foun d i t t o b e Impossibl e t o ski , a s a substantia l cree k

weavin g throug h force d u s t o remov e ou r ski s ever y 4 0 ft. , I n orde r t o

cros s th e expose d rockbed . No t onl y wa s I t Impossibl e t o sk i o n bu t als o

Impossibl e t o wal k on ; ever y ste p o n sno w woul d sin k throuq h t o th e strea m

beneath . Thoroughl y miserabl e b y th e en d bu t overjoye d a t finally

reachin g th e car , w e chanqe d int o dr y clothin g an d comfortabl e shoes . B y

3:3 0 w e wer e o n th e roa d home , onl y the n allowin g ourselve s t o fee l th e

batterin g ou r bodie s ha d take n ove r th e las t fe w days . "Wa s i t wort h

It?? " yo u ask . "O f course ! I t wa s a grea t trip! "

Participant s

Jef f Greenwoo d And y Pachec o Murie l Pachec o

- 1 1 -

THE ASSAULT O N ATWELL

Ji m Chesk o Februar y 19-22 , 198 7

The pressure s o f schoo l ha d oversteppe d th e boundarie s o f reasonabl e

demands . Workin g o n a projec t ove r th e Christma s holiday s ha d onl y lef t

me wit h tw o day s o f skiin q (fo r th e entir e seaso n u p t o February) , s o i t

was hig h tim e t o tak e th e mid-ter m brea k of f an d hea d fo r som e mountains .

As a n executiv e member (whos e standin g wa s i n ill-repute ) I neede d t o lea d

a tri p somewhere , an d observin g tha t previou s trip s ha d hithert o bee n t o

objective s o f a somewha t les s tha n technicall y demandin g nature , I decide d

tha t Atwel l Pea k provide d a challeng e tha t woul d combin e som e potentiall y

grea t skiin q wit h climbing . Bu t woul d anyon e com e wit h me ? I pu t u p a

tri p notic e describin g a sk i travers e o f th e nev § wit h a n attemp t a t

Atwel l (whic h I considere d t o b e a C 5 venture ) bu t receive d n o respons e

unti l a fe w day s befor e th e schedule d dat e (rumor s o f a garbag e ba q

descen t o f Rainie r ma y hav e ha d somethin q t o d o wit h this) . Th e weathe r

was bein g predictabl y uncooperative , ye t I wa s determine d t o g o ahea d wit h

th e trip , fo r i t woul d certainl y b e th e las t chanc e a t a n outin g unti l th e

schoo l yea r ended .

The origina l pla n wa s t o mee t a t my hous e a t 6:3 0 o n Thursda y

morning , the n procee d u p t o Diamon d Hea d an d Blac k Tusk . A t 6:1 5 goo d ol 1

Trevo r phone d me u p an d explaine d tha t h e ha d slep t i n (h e ha d bee n u p th e

previou s 'nigh t studyin g fo r a biochemistr y midterm) , bu t woul d b e b y i n

les s tha n a n hour . S o whe n th e othe r fou r part y member s arrive d I invite d

the m int o th e kitchen . Ther e w e polishe d of f tw o doze n chocolat e chi p

cookie s bake d th e previou s evenin g an d disassemble d an d adjuste d

crampons . Yo u may wonde r wh y I includ e detail s suc h a s thi s i n my story .

I n fact , I als o wonde r wh y I do . Al l I ca n sa y i s tha t I a m continuall y

amazed b y ho w plan s ge t altere d i n th e cours e o f huma n events , an d ho w i t

rarel y seem s t o matte r wha t i n fac t actuall y occurs . I n an y event , w e

lef t Wes t Vancouve r b y 7:3 0 an d heade d u p t o th e Diamon d Hea d road .

Richard' s vehicl e an d th e thir d ca r go t a 10-minut e headstar t o n Trevo r

and myself , ye t someho w w e mad e i t (par t way ) u p th e Diamon d Hea d roa d an d

waite d a t th e steeoes t sectio n (whic h th e Rabbi t coul d no t ascend ) fo r

abou t hal f a n hou r unti l w e me t th e othe r car s comin g u p (Trevo r wa s

drivino , no t me) . We dumoe d th e equipmen t of f an d drov e th e car s t o Blac k

Tusk , leavin g tw o vehicle s a t th e entranc e or th e parkin g lot , an d the n

returne d t o Diamon d Head . Afte r quickl y sortin g gea r w e heade d u p th e

trail , th e tim e bein g a littl e afte r noon .

- 1 2 -

The sk i u p th e Diamon d Hea d trai l wa s slow . Sno w wa s fallin g heavil y

and w e ha d t o brea k trail . O n th e wa y u p w e me t a woman wh o kindl y

offere d u s advic e (warnings ) i n a Delphi c manner . Th e firs t visio n wa s o f

vas t amount s o f sno w tha t treacherousl y stoo d read y t o avalanche . When

sh e aske d u s ou r destinatio n an d w e tol d he r Atwel l sh e reminde d u s o f he r

clos e frien d wh o ha d bee n kille d o n th e mountain' s sout h ridg e th e

previou s summer . Despit e th e lat e start , slo w going , an d prophesie d doom ,

we presse d on . We reache d th e Elfi n Lak e shelte r a t 5:0 0 p.m. , wa y behin d

schedule . Th e decisio n wa s mad e t o continu e on , skiin g b y headlamp , bu t

tw o part y member s opte d t o sta y a t th e shelter .

Debbi e di d a grea t jo b breakin q trai l u p t o cam p 1 , locate d jus t

abov e th e Gargoyles . A war m dinne r wa s kindl y receive d b y all , an d w e al l

agree d tha t a 5:0 0 a.m . star t woul d b e essentia l I f w e wer e t o mak e an y

seriou s attemp t o n th e mountain . I wa s feelin g rathe r lanaui d a s a resul t

of a recen t bac k injur y an d a n extremel y overweigh t pack , bu t whe n Richar d

mentione d tha t eve n And y mad e i t t o th e bas e o f th e ridg e o n hi s firs t

attempt , my lif e flashe d befor e my eye s an d I kne w tha t I mus t g o on .

We awok e th e nex t mornin g t o darknes s tha t brightene d t o fiftee n t o

twent y fee t visibility . Afte r severa l hour s o f ploddinq , th e clou d bega n

t o clea r a s w e climbe d u p th e slop e t o Littl e Diamon d Head . Atwel l loome d

larg e against , th e sk y a s w e droppe d ou r pack s an d ski s an d continue d alon g

th e thin , expose d sout h ridge . Droppin g dow n twic e t o skir t prominen t

roc k bands , w e kne w tha t w e wer e racin a agains t tim e (daylight) . We

continue d uo , an d emerge d at . th e bas e o f th e summi t towe r a t 4:0 0 p.m .

Afte r traversin g a n extremel y shar p an d expose d ridg e (th e notc h nea r th e

top) , th e win d bega n t o how l an d bit e a s a trul y impressiv e sigh t stoo d

befor e us : ic e encruste d rotte n roc k covere d wit h a dustin g o f snow ,

varyin g fro m 4 5 t o 7 5 degrees , wit h th e fina l pitc h unprotectable . Bu t 1 t

woul d hav e t o wai t fo r anothe r day . Th e descen t dow n th e mountai n wa s

rapi d bu t no t easy . Th e su n quickl y se t an d ligh t dimme d a s tw o o f th e

fou r headlamp s i n th e part y failed . Richar d scare d Debbi e whe n h e steppe d

one le g of f th e ridge , an d I scare d Trevo r b y my strea m o f consciousnes s

mumblinqs . We campe d o n th e ridg e jus t of f Littl e Diamon d Head , makin g

sur e tha t ou r tent s wer e snugl y neste d awa y fro m th e stee p drop-off .

The nex t da y Richar d ha d t o sk i out . Trevo r an d Debbi e wer e t o

continu e acros s th e neve" , an d I decide d t o accompan y Richar d s o tha t I

coul d spen d on e da y doin g th e homewor k tha t ha d bee n postpone d earlier .

As w e approache d th e Gargoyles , th e cloud s finall y cleare d an d th e su n

shon e hriqh t an d war m upo n th e aUstenln g snow . I t wa s jus t lik e sprin g

skiing , an d th e snowscap e an d roc k feature s tha t wer e hidde n b y clou d o n

- 1 3 -

th e wa y I n becam e brillian t an d visible . Th e slope s behin d th e Elfi n

shelte r offere d som e beautifu l telemarkln g (I f on e I s carefu l t o avoi d

skiin g of f th e leewar d sid e o f ridges) . Th e trai l dow n fro m th e Heathe r

cabi n wa s muc h lik e a bobsle d run , however : 1cy , fast , an d to o narro w an d

rut-groove d t o tur n 1n . Richar d an d mysel f mad e I t ou t I n aoo d time ,

stoppin g a t th e Klahanl e fo r dinne r befor e returnin g t o th e cit y tha t

Saturda y evening .

Trevo r an d Debbi e continue d o n throug h th e neve" , arrivin g a t th e

cold , empt y Burto n Hu t jus t a s darknes s fell . The y skie d ou t acros s Lak e

Garibald i an d dow n th e Barrie r Trai l th e nex t day . Despit e th e fac t tha t

littl e o f th e tri p wen t a s planned , 1 t wa s stil l probabl y th e bes t wa y

Imaginabl e o f spendin g th e mid-ter m break . Th e subsequen t day s a t schoo l

brough t man y a sleeples s nigh t o f wor k an d anxiety , bu t th e tri p remaine d

a rejuvenatin g "spo t o f time, " whos e powe r an d meanin g ma y b e understoo d

by thos e wh o wer e ther e an d require s n o furthe r expatlatlon .

Participant s

01 m Chesk o Trevo r Norma n

Richar d Howe s . Debbi e Phillip s tw o other s

- 1 4 -

SPRING 198 7

BIRKENHEAD MOUNTAIN

Ti m Boot h Marc h 198 7

We drov e u p th e roa d toward s th e microwav e tower . Brian' s vehicl e

made i t u p t o abou t 300 0 ft . elevation , bu t no t mine ! Sunn y weather ,

wind , an d thawin q sno w sa w u s skiin q t o cam o i n a area t spot , b y a gull y

wit h 500-100 0 ft . runs . Afte r skiin g dow n thi s bow l belo w th e nort h face ,

I too k som e photo s o f th e Mt . Taillefe r area . I decide d t o bivv y outsid e

and th e nigh t wa s clea r an d cold .

Next day , w e ha d t o sk i dow n t o ge t t o th e bas e o f th e glacie r

drainin g th e nort h sid e o f Birkenhea d Mountain . Th e mountai n itsel f i s a

hug e bow l surrounde d b y stee p ridge s an d pinnacles . I t wa s grea t t o war m

up b y startin g th e mornin g wit h a downhil l sk i fo r a change , dippin g 1 n

and ou t o f th e tree s 1 n ligh t powder , occasionall y breakin g Int o

unexpecte d patche s o f crust .

Birkenhea d Mountai n ha s a terrifi c 30 ° slop e o n i t bu t w e too k a les s

stee p wa y up , bein g war y o f avalanch e condition s (w e ha d t o cros s man y ol d

slides) . Onc e o n th e summit , severa l o f u s decide d t o tr y th e stee p

slooe . I wen t first , tryin g t o telemar k o n th e har d sastrugi . I fel l

afte r th e secon d tur n an d sli d t o th e bottom , a fla t spo t 30 0 ft . below .

Then Bria n showe d ho w it' s done , jum p oarallel , fall s o n hi s butt , bu t

bounce s bac k ont o hi s sk is—an d the y ar e turns . I' m takin g photos , Bria n

silhouetted , billowin g sno w behin d hi m an d loos e block s fallin g ahead . We

tighte n ou r boot s fo r th e nex t bit , 150 0 ft . o f 25° , windcruste d powder ,

heav y turning , bu t onc e you'r e goin g It' s great—kee p you r spee d up !

Unsur e o f avalanch e potential , I watc h Stev e whil e h e trie s th e firs t

fe w turn s o n th e steepes t part—stayin q o n th e ri b h e find s th e bes t

line . Th e lowe r par t i s fun , t o o — a lon g cruisin g schus s t o th e snou t an d

the n anothe r stee p slop e o f moraine . Th e sno w i s gettin g heavier ; my leg s

ar e tired . We collaps e a t th e botto m an d clim b bac k t o ou r camp . My pac k

i s loade d u p wit h a wet , heav y ten t an d the n w e cruis e bac k dow n th e road ,

jus t wid e enoug h fo r telemar k swings , crossin g fro m powde r t o f1rn , sid e

t o side . Finally , th e smoot h driv e alon g th e d'Arc y roa d t o Pemberton .

Participant s

Bria n Waddinpto n Bets y Fletche r Jud y Needha m

Dave William s Pete r Cellier s Stev e Sheffiel d

Ti m Boot h

- 1 5 -

We Neve r Foun d th e Cabin!—DICKSO N RANGE

Ti m Boot h Apri l 198 7

Followin g th e ridg e upwards , billowin g spindrif t play s hid e an d see k

wit h passin g clouds , givin g glimpse s o f endles s peaks . Th e rock y flan k

scoure d bar e an d packe d dee p o n th e lee ; leavin g ou r skis , w e plo d onward s

leanin g int o th e gale . A col d summi t snack , exclamations , superlatives .

We'v e climbe d a mountain , Sherl e Peak , name d fo r a pilo t wh o die d here ,

and thi s lonel y spo t woul d serv e t o b e a s qran d a n epitap h a s anyon e woul d

want i n suc h a spectacula r place . We li e an d fee l ourselve s meltin g Int o

th e snow , gainin g brie f shelter . Soon , wit h chille d bones , w e haste n

downwards , stumblin g alon g th e rime-covere d rock y ridge .

Anticipation : strappin g o n ou r ski s wit h num b fingers , pol e strap s

looped , th e firs t turn , jumpin q sastrugi , dow n int o th e soft , dee p powder ,

mis t rolling , gyroscop e turn s o n autopilot , n o contour s visible . Pierre' s

jum p turns : whump , whump , whump , pur e magic . Flying , dancing , h e stop s

and pants . I follo w suit . It' s bee n sai d tha t a pai r o f ski s i s a goo d

substitut e fo r a pai r o f wings ; i n thi s dream-lik e snow , tha t sayin g wa s

nea r t o th e truth . Th e thre e o f u s swoopin g down ; exhilaratio n flowing .

Followin g Pierre , Ale x dart s i n fron t o f me . I fee l movement—behin d me a

wave o f sno w creep s silently . Surel y thi s gentl e slop e canno t b e

s l id ing—i t mus t hav e release d fro m above . I t overtake s me lik e a breake r

on th e beach . I' m tryin g t o sta y o n my skis . I t gather s momentum , I

shou t a warnina . I panic , I' m falling , swirling , caugh t 1 n th e flow ,

bein g swep t downwar d b y my skis , poles , an d sack . Tr y swimmin g i n we t

concret e wit h six-foo t plank s o n you r feet ! Th e forc e i s incredible , I' m

fightin g t o surviv e wit h al l my strength , bu t stil l I' m choking , bein g

dragge d under . Th e movemen t slow s an d stops ; wit h a las t effor t my han d

reache s th e air . Silence . I' m froze n rigid , petrified , a hug e weigh t

pressin g o n me . Franticall y tunnelin g wit h my fre e hand , I clea r my face .

Ai r burst s int o my lungs . Coughing , breathin g hard , shoutin g fo r help ,

I' m relieve d whe n th e other s answe r back . We'r e O.K. ! Ale x free s himsel f

and dig s ou t Pierr e an d I , hi s shove l bite s int o my legs , I' m free . I'v e

cheate d fat e thi s time ; I'v e go t man y mor e day s o f skiin g left . It' s goo d

t o b e alive !

P.S . Watc h ou t fo r smal l pocket s o f wlndslab , especiall y i n

hollows ! Also , cabl e binding s releas e i n a slide , bu t pi n binding s sta y

on an d drag yo u under ; i f yo u ca n ge t ri d o f you r equipmen t an d sta y o n

top , the n yo u hav e a goo d chanc e o f survival . Anothe r thing : th e sk i

terrai n i n th e Souther n Chilcotl n 1 s AMAZING; I' m goin g bac k fo r more !

Participant s

Ti m Boot h Pierr e Frlel e Ale x Fri d

- 1 6 -

MT. SI R RICHARD

Dave Robinso n Na y 5-12 , 198 7

May 4th : We wer e thinkin g o f goin g t o th e Tchaickaza n are a unti l on e

of ou r tw o driver s decide d no t t o go . We the n planne d t o cra m int o Andy' s

ca r t o th e Bridg e Glacier . A t leas t unti l And y arrive d fro m Courtena y

withou t hi s car , havin g ha d th e impressio n I t wouldn' t b e needed ! Withou t

to o muc h fus s w e decide d t o hitchhik e t o Whistle r an d hea d Int o th e Mt .

Si r Richar d are a vi a Singin g Pass , an d retur n ove r th e Spearhea d Range .

Finally , afte r week s o f uncertainty , w e ha d a destinatio n an d a group .

The weathe r wa s eve n beginnin g t o loo k good .

May 5th : I n brillian t su n w e buse d t o Horsesho e Bay , an d go t a n

excellen t ride , reachin g Whistle r a t abou t 2:0 0 i n th e afternoon . Afte r

lunc h w e shouldere d ou r enormou s packs . Erika' s wa s particularl y

ridiculou s sinc e i t seeme d bigge r tha n her ! Wit h he r ski s strappe d on , i t

towere d fa r abov e he r head .

Afte r a whil e th e trai l bega n tantalizin g u s wit h bit s o f sno w tha t

we coul d sk i o n fo r a fe w minute s befor e i t vanished . Thi s rathe r

inconvenien t situatio n continue d fo r som e tim e befor e w e eventuall y

reache d continuou s snow .

Our conversatio n wa s minima l sinc e th e mai n though t i n ou r mind s

concerne d th e weigh t o n ou r backs , whic h wa s bes t no t t o discus s much .

We packe d u p t o th e Russe t Lak e Hu t (615 0 ft .) , pushin q fo r th e cabi n

rathe r tha n cam p 1 n Singin g Pass . We arrive d a t 10:0 0 p.m . 1 n moonlight ,

havin g see n fres h grizzl y track s o n th e ridg e afte r Singin g Pass .

The pac k i n ha d exhauste d u s t o th e poin t tha t foo d wasn' t ver y

welcome , s o dinne r wa s jus t a snack .

May 6th : A res t day ; perfec t weather . Th e vie w wa s great , th e dar k

peak s o f th e Spearhea d Rang e soare d fa r abov e Fitzsimmon s Creek , an d th e

su n wa s incredibl y brilliant .

We at e al l da y t o ge t lighte r packs , an d practise d crevass e rescues .

We rope d up , the n on e o f u s woul d ru n of f i n som e direction . Th e other s

woul d sto p hi m an d se t u p a pulle y syste m t o pul l hi m ou t o f th e

"crevasse. " We practise d til l w e ha d al l trie d "every " situation . A

rathe r nove l ide a fo r th e VOC i t seems .

May 7th : Sunn y an d war m again , wha t luck !

Our pla n wa s t o travers e int o th e Diavol o Cree k Valley , whic h w e did ,

bu t no t a s easil y a s w e ha d hoped . We starte d b y goin g sout h aroun d

Fissil e Pea k t o th e Fissile-Whirlwin d co l (760 0 ft.) . Th e previousl y

sun-softene d sno w ha d froze n t o th e consistenc y o f concret e overnight . We

- 1 7 -

ende d u p carryin q ou r ski s t o th e co l sinc e the y wer e o f littl e use .

Once ove r th e col , th e sno w wa s muc h softe r sinc e i t ha d bee n i n th e

su n al l morning . Whil e w e ha d a snac k a t th e col , on e o f Jill' s cable s

sneake d of f o n th e ic e int o a larg e wind-cirque , bu t afte r som e puzzlemen t

i t wa s recovered . We continue d acros s th e Overlor d Glacier , dodgin g a fe w

crevasses , the n ascende d aroun d th e nort h shoulde r o f Overlor d Mountain .

We crosse d a relativel y fres h slide , jus t befor e reachin g th e Overlord -

Benvoli o col . We continue d o n betwee n th e tw o summit s o f Mt . Benvoli o

(850 0 ft. ) fo r lunch . Th e vie w wa s excellent—fam i 1 ia r territor y we' d

jus t bee n in , an d unfamiliar , whic h w e wer e abou t t o explore . We the n

droppe d dow n th e Diavol o Glacier . Jus t befor e th e fla t par t ther e wa s a

stee p bi t tha t w e walke d dow n s o a s t o kee p nea r som e rock s i n cas e I t

slid . Erik a an d And y rolle d thei r pack s dow n this . J11 1 would'v e excep t

th e ten t pole s migh t hav e bee n broken . I didn' t wan t t o ris k an y hidde n

crevasses . Erik a eve n trie d t o slid e he r skis , bu t fortunatel y the y

didn' t an d sh e though t bette r o f tryin g again .

We scramble d aroun d lookin g fo r a wa y pas t a n irritatin g kno b ont o

th e well-name d Detou r Ridge . Eventuall y w e considere d droppin g dow n an d

traversin g th e nort h side . Erika , ou r avalanch e exper t fro m havin g spen t

th e winte r sk i patrolling , decide d tha t th e sno w probabl y woul d no t

slide . Becaus e o f th e mush y snow , w e du g a fai r numbe r o f sno w pit s o n

thi s trip , anothe r rathe r un-VOC-lik e activity . One-by-on e w e droppe d

down an d traverse d a nast y couloi r wit h slush y sno w an d quit e fres h

slides , whic h wa s overhun g b y cornices , ont o th e nort h slope s o f th e ridg e

(als o overhun g b y cornices) . When Erik a reache d me w e agree d i t wa s abou t

th e scaries t plac e eithe r o f u s ha d bee n i n th e mountains . Also , whe n I

crosse d th e couloi r I' d notice d tha t ou r planne d descen t rout e ha d a clif f

at th e botto m o f it ! We continue d t o th e en d o f th e ridge , an d droppe d t o

th e nort h dow n som e ridge s an d benche s tha t eventuall y le d t o th e valle y

floor . We cruise d dow n th e valle y t o tre e lin e (510 0 ft. ) an d camped . I t

had bee n a fairl y lon g da y (1 2 hours ) an d w e wer e prett y tired , bu t

satisfie d wit h th e feelin g o f remotenes s 1 n thi s valley . Goo d visibilit y

had bee n necessar y fo r navigating , especiall y o n Detou r Ridge .

May 8th : Perfectl y clea r again ! We go t u p earl y t o clim b Mt . Si r

Richar d whil e th e weathe r held . Crosse d a 530 0 ft . ridg e an d descende d

int o th e rarely-visited , uppe r Cheakamu s Rive r Valley . We ascende d thi s o n

th e nort h sid e o f th e rive r t o th e McBrid e Glacier , an d the n sout h u p th e

glacier . Fantasti c scenery , remoteness , weather , wind , company ,

everything ! What a n excellen t day ! A t 670 0 ft . w e turne d eas t an d

climbe d t o th e larg e fla t co l a t 730 0 ft . We foun d a refreshin g trickl e

- 1 8 -

of wate r jus t befor e ascendin g th e gentl e slope s eas t o f th e northeas t

ridge . Jil l fel t th e hea t a t abou t 800 0 ft . an d stoppe d b y th e northeas t

ridg e wher e ther e wa s a coolin g wind . Th e res t o f u s skie d t o th e summi t

ridg e a t 850 0 ft . an d walke d u p I t t o th e summi t (890 0 ft .) .

What a feeling ! We wer e o n th e highes t summi t fo r miles , coul d se e

sout h t o Mt . Baker , nort h t o unknow n ranges , wes t to"Vancouve r Island , an d

eas t t o th e high , dr y peak s wes t o f th e Frase r Canyon . Awesome !

We retrace d ou r tracks , an d foun d Jil l muc h rested . Ha d som e

excellen t skiin g o n th e steepe r slopes . Onl y on e slop e jus t belo w th e

McBrid e Glacie r wa s dubiou s enoug h tha t w e wen t on e a t a time . Th e

Cheakamus Rive r Valle y wasn' t to o ba d a shootin g galler y whe n w e passe d

through , bu t w e crosse d som e larg e pile s o f (mostl y old ) avalanch e

debris . Sa w a fe w cloud s tha t afternoon—th e firs t o n th e trip . Reache d

camp a t dus k again . A twenty-tw o km . roun d tri p wit h a n ascen t o f 520 0

ft . mad e fo r fou r tire d skiers !

May 9th : Some hig h clou d fo r a change . We reste d al l da y an d

suntanne d (burned ) an d rea d Helnleln' s "Stranae r 1 n a Strang e Land " t o

eac h other . A prett y slothfu l day .

May 10th : Unfortunately , w e didn' t hav e th e tim e t o clim b Veeoce e

Mountai n o r th e Lectur e Cutters , s o w e bega n ou r exi t ove r th e

Spearheads . We climbe d th e Nade n Glacier , avoidin g th e lowe r par t t o th e

north , wher e w e experience d som e avalanch e danger . Th e heat , stil l air ,

hig h cloud , an d ris k ha d u s al l 1 n a weir d mood , whic h laste d til l w e

reache d th e uppe r par t o f th e glacier . We sa w track s o f someone' s fairl y

recen t Spearhea d traverse . Jil l talke d u s ou t o f Mt . MacBet h (luck y sinc e

we would'v e gon e u p 1 t th e wron g way ) an d w e climbe d Th e Ripsa w (870 0 ft. )

vi a it s eas t ridg e instead . I t wa s a pleasan t scrambl e o n loos e rock . We

returne d t o th e co l connectin g Nade n an d Ripsa w Glacier s wher e ou r ski s

were . We the n crosse d th e Ripsa w Glacie r t o Platfor m Glacier , an d climbe d

Quive r Pea k (880 0 ft. ) fro m ther e (scrambl e t o ridg e betwee n th e tw o

summit s an d wal k sout h t o highes t one) .

Next , w e crosse d Platfor m Glacie r t o th e co l eas t o f Mt . Tremo r an d

camped jus t belo w th e pea k o n Tremo r Glacier . Erik a an d Jil l cooke d u p

ye t anothe r excellen t mea l whil e And y an d I du g a platfor m fo r th e tent s

and buil t a wal l agains t th e wind , whic h wa s gettin a stronger . Th e

weathe r wa s gettin g cloudy ; a stor m appeare d t o b e approaching .

The nigh t wa s ver y windy , Erik a an d Jil l go t n o sleep , I no t some ,

and And y slep t lik e a lo g despit e th e ten t bein g presse d fla t agains t hi s

fac e quit e often !

- 1 9 -

May 11th : We decide d t o tr y an d ge t dow n Blackcom b toda y sinc e th e

weathe r wa s gettin g worse n i t white d ou t shortl y afte r w e "wok e up. " Ha d

gor p fo r breakfast , rope d up , an d followe d track s dow n an d acros s Tremo r

Glacie r t o wher e the y wen t ove r th e ridg e nort h o f Mt . Pattison .

Accordin g t o th e map , th e othe r sid e wa s quit e steep , s o w e ascende d th e

glacie r an d wen t ove r th e sout h shoulde r o f Mt . Pattison . Th e win d ther e

was stron g enoug h t o thro w u s of f balanc e no w an d then , an d a littl e mixe d

sno w an d rai n wa s "falling. " Descende d th e Trore y Glacie r an d go t belo w

th e clouds . B y luck , w e foun d th e track s again , bu t couldn' t se e hiq h

enoug h t o tel l whethe r th e slop e wa s stee p o r not . We weren' t feelin g to o

bad abou t th e weathe r sinc e we' d ha d s o muc h sun , bu t i t would'v e bee n

nic e t o hav e gotte n ou t mor e quickly . We followe d th e track s acros s th e

Trore y Glacie r unti l the y vanished , the n continue d belo w Mt . Trore y t o th e

col wes t o f it . Th e win d comin g u p th e opposit e slop e wa s ver y strong ,

and i t pelte d slee t a t us . We ascende d towar d th e co l abov e th e Decke r

Glacier , stil l roped , i n th e fog . We wer e gettin g ver y damp .

The firs t co l w e trie d ha d a clif f o n th e othe r side , s o w e continue d

on . A glanc e a t th e compas s showe d w e wer e no w ascendin g Decke r

Mountain . When w e turne d around , Erik a discovere d tha t he r leg s wer e

barel y flexibl e enoug h t o d o a kickturn , du e t o th e cold . Ther e wa s

nowher e t o ge t ou t o f th e win d o n thi s slope , th e sno w wasn' t dee p enoug h

fo r a usefu l sno w cave , an d i t wa s doubtfu l whethe r th e ten t woul d stan d

up t o th e win d fo r long . Shortly , w e foun d th e righ t co l an d se t u p th e

dome jus t ove r it . We ha d som e ho t chocolate , an d lunch , pu t o n al l ou r

clothes , an d considere d th e situation . Meanwhile , gust s trie d t o blo w u s

of f th e edg e or , a t least , collaps e th e tent . Lull s le t u s breath e

easier .

None o f u s ha d becom e seriousl y hypothermic , bu t continuin g i n tha t

win d an d slee t woul d soone r o r late r hav e kille d us . We abandone d th e

rout e an d heade d dow n t o th e trees . We walke d dow n sinc e a rope d sk i

descen t would'v e bee n rathe r chaotic . Th e descen t o f Decke r Glacie r wa s

straightforwar d onc e w e go t belo w th e cloud s an d coul d see . We continue d

down t o treelin e (abou t 530 0 ft. ) wher e w e foun d a perfec t grov e o f dens e

tree s encirclin g a clearing . When w e pitche d th e tents , th e dome' s pole s

broke . . . we' d bee n luck y highe r up ! We go t a fir e going , ha d a decen t

meal , an d "dried " ourselve s b y th e fir e i n pissin g rain . Al l o f u s slep t

i n th e caddis , whic h wa s dam n cramped , bu t warme r tha n havin g jus t tw o I n

a tent .

May 12th : We wok e t o fin d clea r bu t haz y sky , probabl y meanin g

unstabl e weather . Finishe d u p ou r las t breakfas t foo d an d drie d mor e

- 2 0 -

stuf f I n th e sun . Ou r lac k o f toile t pape r cause d u s t o experimen t wit h

some tre e lichens , whic h prove d t o b e mos t luxurious !

We debate d goin q dow n Wedge Cree k o r ove r th e Blackcomb-Spearhea d

col . Th e firs t optio n woul d b e a lon g bushwhack , th e secon d woul d

probabl y b e easier , bu t pu t u s a t greate r ris k I f ba d weathe r developed .

We decide d t o g o dow n Wedg e Creek , whic h wa s probabl y bes t sinc e blac k

cloud s bega n engulfln o th e peak s a s w e lef t camp .

The rout e wa s simpl e enough , dow n th e wes t sid e o f "Decke r Creek, "

the n dow n th e sout h sid e o f Wedg e Creek . We ha d th e las t o f ou r foo d fo r

lunch , som e grai n stuf f whic h apparentl y 1 s unusua l t o hav e wit h peanu t

butter , jam , an d hone y mixe d i n th e wa y w e did . I t wa s O.K . H e ha d

easie r travellin g tha n I' d expecte d becaus e th e sno w wen t dow n quit e lo w

(380 0 ft .) . Despit e that , 1 t stil l too k 1 2 hour s t o reac h th e powerlin e

road , whic h w e reache d i n th e dark . We al l fel t incredibl e relie f a t

reachin g som e sig n o f civilization .

Thi s roa d wa s suppose d t o cros s Wedg e Cree k bu t th e bridg e wa s washe d

out ! Luckil y anothe r smal l roa d le d dow n t o th e railroa d track s whic h w e

followe d til l the y cam e nea r th e highway . A larg e freigh t trai n wen t b y

jus t afte r we' d crosse d th e bridg e nea r th e highway .

A ca r stoppe d fo r us , bu t coul d onl y tak e two . Oil l ha d t o ae t t o a

dentis t appointment , an d Erik a ha d t o phon e he r parent s s o the y wouldn' t

sen d a searc h party . N o othe r ca r stoppe d tha t night , s o And y an d I

crawle d int o th e tree s fo r th e night , an d hitchhike d bac k th e nex t day .

Participant s

Erik a Kellerhal s Dav e Robinso n Oil l MacDonal d

Andy Clar k

YOSEHITE VALLE Y

Jef f Greenwoo d Ma y 8-19 , 198 7

Eleve n hundre d mile s i s a lon g way .

Yes folks , w e drov e th e lengt h o f my nativ e countr y t o reac h ou r

destination , Yosemit e Valley . Ther e wer e si x o f u s i n "th e monster "

(Muriel' s parents ' car) : Andy , Muriel , Kwon , Enrico , Laurie , an d I . We

drov e 1 n shift s fo r 2 7 hours , wit h occasiona l foo d break s an d ston s t o fi x

th e muffler . We playe d cru x charades ; someon e woul d mim e th e cru x move s

of a well-know n clim b 1 n Squamis h (soun d effect s wer e allowed ) an d th e

other s ha d t o gues s wha t i t wa s called . Thi s wasn' t a s stupi d a s i t

sounds ; quit e o f fe w o f th e guesse s wer e correct . Climb s wit h stemmin g

- 2 1 -

moves wer e difficul t a s ther e wa s no t muc h le q room , eithe r i n th e bac k o r

th e front .

We arrive d lat e o n Saturda y night , hu t al l th e campground s wer e full ,

so w e drov e ou t o f th e par k an d slep t o n th e sid e o f th e road . O n Sunda y

mornin g w e drov e i n earl y an d reserve d tw o site s i n th e Sunnysid e

Campqround . Sunnysid e i s wher e al l th e climber s han g out . Nex t door , a

guy wa s re-solin g shoes . Ove r ther e wa s Midnigh t Lightning , a boulde r

proble m tha t onl y a handfu l o f peopl e ha d successfull y climbed . Werne r

Brau n cycle d pas t o n hi s mountai n bike ; h e ha d climbe d Astr o Ma n ove r 2 5

times . We al l fel t immediatel y a t hom e a s climbers .

On Sunda y w e playe d tourist , walkin g aroun d an d takin g lot s o f

photos . I hav e a t leas t fiv e shot s o f Yosemit e Fall s alone . A s ther e wa s

onl y on e car , shuttl e bu s an d fee t wer e th e majo r mean s o f transport . I

bough t lot s o f postcard s an d starte d t o writ e t o my friends .

On Monda y th e climbin q beqa n 1 n earnest . And y an d Murie l wen t t o

Middl e Cathedra l Rock , whil e th e res t o f u s heade d fo r th e Manur e Pil e

Buttres s o n th e Lowe r Brother . We ha d t o tak e a lon o detou r vi a E l

Capitan , a s a huq e rockslid e nea r Rixon' s Pinnacl e ha d close d th e road .

To b e foun d i n th e cordoned-of f are a woul d resul t 1 n a $50 0 fine .

As w e walke d alon q th e bas e o f E l Capita n w e trie d t o pic k ou t

climber s o n som e o f th e routes . Th e zoo m len s o f my camer a helpe d a bit ,

bu t the y wer e stil l extremel y tin y agains t th e massiv e dusty-yello w

backdro p o f granite . Onc e a t th e buttress , Lauri e an d Kwo n teame d u n t o

do Afte r Si x an d Afte r Seven , whil e Enric o an d I se t ou r sight s o n

Nutcracker , a fiv e pitc h 5. 8 classic . Thi s wa s a grea t introductio n t o

th e Valley . We suffere d dehydration , leade r fall s (on e each) , rout e

findin g difficulties , an d darknes s o n th e descent . Grea t fun , thouah ; w e

bot h fel t broke n i n an d read y fo r anything .

We ha d fantasti c weathe r o n Wednesda y fo r a n attemp t o n Hal f Dome vi a

th e 5. 7 Snak e Dik e route . I t wa s a long hik e i n t o th e mountai n bu t th e

tw o magnificen t waterfall s (Verna l Fall s an d Nevad a Falls ) an d othe r

spectacula r view s mad e th e walkin g par t mos t enjoyable . Thi s wa s a rea l

VOC expedition , wit h thre e group s o f tw o climbers . We turne d of f th e

trai l a t th e campground , an d walke d pas t a prett y lak e e n rout e t o th e

bas e o f th e climb . And y an d Murie l le d of f first , followe d b y Enric o an d

Kwon, wit h Lauri e an d me bringin g u p th e rear . We too k fou r hour s *o r th e

climb , belayin g al l eigh t pitche s an d the n thir d classln q th e lo w angl e

slab s t o th e summit . Grea t climb , grea t exposure ! Th e rout e goe s u p a

knobbl y dik e o n wha t woul d otherwis e b e a stee p an d difficul t sla b climb .

The firs t tw o pitche s ar e 5. 7 an d th e res t i s easier . Th e other s

- 2 2 -

sunbathe d o n th e sunli t whil e the y waite d fo r us . We foun d a chipmun k

scamperin g amon g th e summi t rocks . I t mus t hav e live d of f crumb s supplie d

by th e tourists .

We descende d vi a th e touris t route , whic h wa s eve n steepe r tha n ou r

climb , bu t ha d wir e cabl e handrails , an d woode n slat s t o wal k on . We

arrive d bac k a t th e campground , burn t an d bagge d afte r a 14-hou r day .

Paul , Jim , Theresa , an d Chri s ha d arrived .

Afte r a res t day , Lauri e an d I mad e a n assaul t o n th e Roya l Arches .

Thi s prove d t o b e a moderat e epic , a s th e forecas t fo r scattere d thunder -

shower s change d fro m a n exaggeratio n t o a n understatemen t a s th e da y

progressed .

The Roya l Arche s 1 s a goo d beginner' s climb ; 1 5 pitche s rate d 5. 7 A2 ,

and althoug h no t particularl y aesthetic , 1 t has varie d climbin g an d i s a

goo d exercis e i n route-finding . Th e nint h pendulu m pitc h add s som e

excitemen t also , bu t fre e climber s bewar e the " 5. 9 rating . Th e clim b i s

one o f th e busies t i n th e valley , bu t w e ha d I t completel y t o ourselves .

We reache d th e to p o f pitc h 1 1 b y 3:3 0 p.m. , an d a nearb y thunderclou d

deposite d som e rain . Onl y fou r pitche s t o go , bu t w e though t we' d si t i t

ou t an d wai t fo r th e roc k t o dry . Well , i t go t wors e an d worse. , unti l we .

wer e sittin g 1 n th e middl e o f a sever e thunderstorm . A rea l feelin g o f

security , watchin g th e for k lightnin g strikin g Hal f Dome, an d the n lookin g

up a t th e tal l tre e t o whic h w e wer e anchored . Soon , th e whol e fac e wa s a

waterfall , an d th e epi c ratin g wa s risin g fairl y fast . We ha d fortunatel y

chose n th e mos t sheltere d pitc h fo r ou r dam p vigi l an d wer e reasonabl y

comfortabl e o n a wid e ledge , bu t th e rai n continue d fo r severa l hours , an d

thing s starte d t o loo k a b i t grim . Well , afte r exhaustin g possibilitie s

lik e tellin q jokes , singing , wonderin g wha t th e other s wer e doing , an d

commentin g o n th e fin e view , w e decide d tha t a nigh t ou t wa s Inevitable .

We sa t o n my pack , wit h sno w foa m a t pu r back s (recommended ) an d Enrico' s

spac e blanke t ove r th e front . I too k my kne e pad s of f an d sa t o n them ,

makin g thing s mor e comfortable . Nevertheless , ther e wa s ver y littl e slee p

fo r anyon e tha t night .

Next morning , th e roc k wa s dr y enoug h t o continue , an d w e rattle d of f

th e las t fe w pitche s b y mid-morning . Nort h Dome, vi a th e sout h face , wa s

nex t o n th e cards , s o w e foolishl y ignore d th e quideboo k an d approache d

th e clim b diagonall y instea d o f acros s an d up . Thi s resulte d i n mor e bus h

bashin g an d cursin g tha n shoul d hav e bee n necessary , an d pu t u s o n th e

wron g ledge , abov e an d t o th e wes t o f th e star t o f th e climb . We wer e

attacke d b y ant s whil e w e contemplate d ou r situation , gazin g acros s a t th e

thir d pitc h o f th e climb , onl y abou t 2 0 metre s away , bu t wit h a stee p

Rappelling from Arrowhead Spire, Yosemite Valley,

California.

photo: Jeff Greenwood

- 2 3 -

unprotecte d fac e t o cros s t o ge t there . Rapidl y approachin g thundercloud s

(an d th e ants ) finall y mad e u p ou r mind s fo r us . Havin g alread y bee n

caugh t ou t I n on e thunderstorm , w e decide d tha t th e experienc e wa s no t t o

be repeated , s o w e commence d bushwhackin g roun d th e wes t sid e o f Nort h Dome

t o gai n th e Nort h Dome trail . Onc e o n th e trail , w e looke d acros s th e

valle y a t Hal f Dome I n tim e t o se e a bol t o f lightnin g strik e It s summit .

I looke d acros s a t Hal f Dome, the n a t th e summi t o f Nort h Dome onl y 50-10 0

metre s away , an d the n a t Laurie . I starte d walkin g briskl y dow n th e trai l

away fro m th e summit , havin g decide d tha t thi s clim b wa s epi c enoug h

withou t bein g struc k b y lightnin g a s well . Bac k i n th e fores t th e hal l

starte d t o fall , lot s o f 1t . We wer e bot h quit e drenche d an d wear y an d i t

was a lon g wal k out . Incidentally , thi s particula r thunderstor m wa s

responsibl e fo r cuttin g of f powe r t o th e Ahwahne e Hote l fo r severa l

hours . Shoc k horror .

Back a t th e campgroun d w e ha d a war m receptio n an d wer e congratulate d

on th e successfu l completio n o f ou r firs t Yosemlt e epic . Th e nex t epi c

occurre d o n Sunday : namely , th e Sunda y brunc h a t th e Ahwahne e Hotel .

Donnin g ou r bes t clothe s w e arrive d a t 8:3 0 a.m . an d pai d ou r $10 . We at e

unti l 1:3 0 p.m. , b y whic h tim e eve n Enric o ha d a slightl y glaze d

expressio n o n hi s face . When i t cam e tim e t o leave , som e o f u s (mysel f

included ) electe d t o remai n a fe w minute s lonqe r a s w e fel t 1 t unsaf e t o

attemp t t o mov e fro m ou r chairs . Th e res t o f th e da y wa s soen t recoverin g

and plannin g ou r nex t climb .

On Monday , Enrico , Kwon , Laurie , an d I se t of f fo r Arrowhea d Ar^t e

and Spire . Despit e th e other s havln o checke d ou t th e approach , w e s t m

managed t o ge t lost , o r shoul d I sa y confused , o n th e wa y up . Finally , w e

locate d th e Wes t Arrowhea d Chimney , fro m whic h w e coul d se e bot h th e are^ e

and spire . Th e spir e looke d muc h mor e mello w t o me . I wa s gla d tha t

Lauri e an d I wer e climbin g it . We experience d som e difficult y i n findin g

th e star t o f th e climb , bu t settle d o n a wet , dirty , mossy , an d generall y

organic-lookin g broke n fac e wit h a chimne y a t th e top . Lauri e le d off ,

and foun d i t toug h going , probabl y becaus e o f th e lo w coefficien t o f

frictio n betwee n roc k shoe s an d slime . Sh e confirme d i t a s th e correc t

route , however , findin g a fixe d pi n hal f wa y up . I foun d th e pitc h

equall y awkward , bu t wa s console d b y a hummingbir d whic h hovere d b y my

helme t a s I scrabble d around , lookin g inquisitivel y a t me a s thoug h I wa s

some ne w typ e o f flower .

The chimne y le d ou t ont o th e fac e proper , an d th e secon d pitc h wa s

delightfu l fac e climbing , eas y bu t ver y exposed . Soo n I wa s o n to p an d

Lauri e joine d me . We turne d an d looke d acros s a t Arrowhea d Aret e towerin g

- 2 4 -

up abov e us . Enric o an d Kwo n wer e visibl e o n th e thir d pitch , an d w e

hurle d abus e a t eac h othe r fo r a fe w minute s befor e i t wa s tim e t o

descend . Gettin q of f th e spir e require d thre e rappels , th e firs t o f whic h

was completel y overhung . I ca n remembe r Laurie' s startle d exclamatio n a s

her fee t parte d compan y wit h th e roc k an d sh e starte d t o spi n roun d 1 n

circles . Afte r a fe w problem s wit h locatin g th e fina l rappe l station , w e

wer e dow n an d headin q bac k t o Sunnyside . We wer e th e onl y one s wh o mad e

i t bac k tha t evening ! Enric o an d Kwo n ha d a T-shirt , shorts , an d rop e

sweate r biv y o n a ledq e o n th e descen t o f th e artte , an d And y an d Murie l

bivie d a t th e to p o f Nort h Dome afte r havin g a majo r epi c o n Nort h Dome' s

sout h face . The y go t seriousl y of f rout e an d ende d u p climbin g 5.9-5.1 0

slab s i n th e failin a light , wit h n o protection , an d a bela y ancho r o f tw o

smal l chicke n heads ! Pau l an d Ji m arrive d bac k a t 3 a.m. , havin g take n

si x hour s t o rappe l of f th e Roya l Arche s 1 n th e dark . Wow, wha t a day !

On Tuesday , whic h wa s my las t day , Lauri e an d I returne d t o th e

Manur e Pil e Buttres s t o d o Nutcracker . Thi s wa s fun ; w e wer e bot h

climhin q mor e confidentl y now , an d I ha d don e th e rout e before . I le d th e

pitc h whic h I ha d falle n o n th e wee k befor e an d mad e a goo d jo b o f 1 t thi s

time , despit e a fe w tens e moments . Lauri e ha d som e excitemen t o n th e

fina l pitch , poppin g of f th e mantl e move . We decide d t o yo-y o th e pitc h

(a s I ha d don e wit h Enrico ) a s sh e wa s a bi t intimidated . No t surprlsin q

when you'r e fiv e fee t an d no t ver y much , an d tryin g t o reac h a hig h ledg e

on tip-toes . A s w e wer e chanain n over , a ver y rud e Portugues e climbe r an d

hi s apologeti c Germa n partne r barge d through . Thi s spoile d th e da y

somewhat , bu t w e forqo t the m onc e the y ha d passe d an d finishe d th e clim b

at a mor e relaxe d pace . Afte r returnin g t o th e campground , I wa s informe d

tha t my rid e hom e wa s leavin g tha t evening . I onl y jus t ha d tim e t o thro w

togethe r al l my stuf f an d gra b a bit e t o ea t befor e w e ha d t o leave . I

reall y fel t tha t I wa s bein g tor n awa y fro m th e Valle y prematurely .

Yosemit e i s a maoica l place , whethe r o r no t yo u ar e a climber , an d th e

qrea t compan y tha t I ha d mad e i t on e o f th e mos t memorabl e trip s o f my

life . Thanks , everybody !

Participant s

Jef f Greenwoo d Kwo n Ki m Pau l Ka o

Andy Pachec o Enric o Kind l Ji m Chesk o

Murie l Pachec o Lauri e Newel l Theres a Duynste e

Chri s Lauri n

- 2 5 -

MARBLE CANYON

Dave Robinso n Ma y 16-18 , 198 7

May 16th : Trevo r picke d Andy , Erika , an d me u p fro m th e Kellerhals '

Pt . Gre y house . Someho w w e stuffe d al l ou r gea r an d ourselve s Int o hi s

ca r an d decide d t o hea d u p vi a th e Frase r Canyon .

I t wa s quit e a chang e t o g o fro m th e coas t Int o th e dr y semi-deser t

aroun d Cach e Creek . Th e deser t ende d quit e abruptl y a s w e heade d wes t

agai n towar d Marbl e Canyon , midwa y betwee n LUlooe t an d Cach e Creek .

We stoppe d fo r a whil e a t th e Marbl e Canyo n campsite , the n ha d a loo k

at th e rock . We decide d t o d o a clim b o n th e "Lowe r Wall, " whic h Trevo r

le d an d th e res t o f u s followe d up . Thi s wa s Andy' s firs t time , an d h e

decide d i t wa s a spor t h e coul d reall y ge t into . Th e roc k (limestone ) i s

good ; hold s ar e generall y solid , thoug h ther e i s som e loos e roc k around .

I t wa s a rea l pleasur e t o b e th e onl y one s climbing , Instea d o f linin g u p

wit h th e lon g weeken d crowd s a t Squamish . Ther e mus t b e a reasonabl e

amount o f climbin g though ; ther e wer e severa l bolts , som e sh1ny-new .

May 17th : I wante d t o tr y som e leading , neve r havin g le d whil e roc k

climbing . Trevo r wante d t o tr y gettin g t o th e to p o f th e Lowe r Wall .

Andy wen t wit h hi m an d the y go t nea r th e top , wher e the y me t u p wit h tw o

guys , on e wh o ha d writte n a guideboo k fo r th e are a abou t eigh t year s ago .

They wer e tryin g t o pu t u p a ne w rout e befor e Kevi n McLan e wrot e u p th e

are a i n hi s ne w guide . Erik a an d I staye d nea r th e bottom . I le d par t o f

what w e ha d climbe d before , the n w e trie d t o fin d othe r routes , withou t

much success . Late r Trevo r le d a stee p 5. 8 slab , ver y well-protecte d b y

bolts , an d th e res t o f u s trie d t o follow . Hold s wer e generall y

non-existen t an d I wa s surprise d t o ge t u p it . Ther e see m t o b e rathe r a

lo t o f bolt s goin g i n aroun d here , whic h i s fin e fo r mediocr e climber s

wantin g t o d o som e leading , bu t no t th e mos t aestheti c wa y u p a rock .

May 18th : We awok e t o fin d sno w onl y 50 0 ft . abov e us , a t th e heigh t

of th e cliffs , an d slee t comin g down . Quit e a chang e fro m th e balmy ,

shorts-and-T-shir t weathe r we' d enjoye d s o far .

We' d planne d t o clim b Chimne y Rock , a wild-lookin g towe r nort h o f th e

canyon , bu t thi s ide a wa s quickl y scrapped .

Afte r packin g an d playin g hacky-sac k fo r a whil e w e heade d fo r

Vancouve r vi a th e Duffe y Lak e Road . Thi s i s quit e a hig h road ; a s w e

climbe d int o th e fres h snow , Trevo r ha d plent y o f fu n i n th e slus h an d

mud. We nearl y crashe d a t on e point , bu t a s i t was , merel y snake d fro m

nea r on e ditc h t o th e other , eventuall y regainin g control . We notice d a

rode o nea r Pemberton , an d stoppe d t o se e som e bron c ridin g an d cal f

- 2 6 -

roping . We als o stoppe d a t Brandywin e

i n tim e fo r dinner .

Participant s

Trevo r Norma n

Andy Clar k

Falls , befor e headin g t o Vancouve r

Erik a Kellerhal s

Dave Robinso n

,

- 2 7 -

SUMMER 198 7

ANDERSON RIVE R VALLEY-YA K PEA K

Murie l Pachec o Jun e 27-28 , 198 7

Andy an d I wer e recentl y bac k fro m Yosemlte , wher e w e ha d go t som e

climbin g don e despit e near-freezin g temperature s an d thunderstorm s almost ,

ever y afternoon . Vancouver , o n th e othe r hand , wa s havin g a hea t wave .

Fairley' s Guideboo k t o Southwester n B.C . ha d recentl y com e ou t an d w e wer e

lookin g fo r som e ne w area s t o explore . I t wa s my tur n t o choos e th e

weeken d destinatio n an d th e ide a o f goin g int o th e Anderso n Rive r Valle y

was appealina . Ya k Crac k sounde d lik e th e idea l objectiv e fo r gettin g a

fee l o f th e area . I t wa s clos e t o th e roa d an d wa s a n eas y multi-pitc h

clim b wit h a n appealin g line .

Afte r spendin a tw o week s i n Yosemlt e surrounde d b y people , w e wer e

feelin g lik e doin g a tri p b y ourselves . We ha d sol d ou r ca r befor e th e

tri p t o Californi a bu t wer e luck y t o hav e acces s t o my parents ' Omni tha t

weekend . We decide d t o driv e ou t o n Saturda y afternoon , cam p nea r th e

road , an d clim b th e pea k o n Sunday .

We drov e u p th e newly-buil t Cogulhall a Highwa y an d stoppe d t o cam p

jus t befor e th e tol l boot h (Ya k Pea k bein g i n ful l view) . We ha d brough t

ou r ow n wate r fro m Vancouve r i n cas e w e weren' t abl e t o fin d a goo d

source . I t wa s fortunat e tha t w e di d brin g i t a s th e onl y sourc e o f wate r

was a shallo w strea m nea r th e hiqhway . Th e bug s wer e thriving , a s warne d

i n th e guideboo k fo r tha t tim e o f year . I bea t a hast y retrea t t o th e ca r

afte r a jumping , swingin g danc e aroun d th e tabl e a t dinnertim e t o kee p th e

beastie s fro m eatin g me alive . I decide d th e onl y wa y I coul d ge t som e

slee p woul d b e t o sta y i n th e car . Andy , wh o i s someho w abl e t o Ignor e

th e bugs , though t sleepin g i n th e ca r woul d b e ho t an d uncomfortable ,

whic h i t was , bu t I wa s determined , a s w e hadn' t brough t a tent .

Afte r a ver y uncomfortabl e nigh t w e go t u p earl y th e nex t mornin g t o

hik e t o th e bas e o f th e peak . We walke d alon g th e highwa y lookin g fo r a

goo d plac e t o cros s a swamp y area , whic h w e foun d withou t an y difficulty .

Ther e seeme d t o b e a gull y tha t le d t o th e bas e fro m th e roa d s o w e aime d

fo r that . I n fact , th e gull y wa s quit e unpleasan t a t th e botto m a s 1 t wa s

choke d wit h dea d tree s (fro m winte r sno w avalanches) . We decide d t o g o

alon g th e ridg e whic h turne d ou t t o b e ver y eas y a s ther e seeme d t o b e a

trai l goin o al l th e wa y up . I t wa s unusua l tha t ther e wa s a trai l 1 n th e

are a alread y a s ther e ha d bee n ver y littl e mountaineerin g activit y unti l

recently . Soo n afte r enterin g th e trai l w e realise d tha t w e wer e no t

- 2 8 -

followin g a trai l bu t a bea r track , s o som e singin g an d genera l noise -

makin g wa s i n order . We reache d th e bas e o f th e rout e withou t an y bea r

encounter s an d stoppe d t o hav e a drin k a s th e da y wa s ver y ho t already .

The clim b starte d o n som e eas y slab s s o w e rope d u p an d 3rd-4t h

classe d i t u p t o th e bas e o f a larq e flake . Th e rout e i n th e guideboo k

went t o th e righ t o f th e flake , bu t ther e wa s a beautifu l crac k goln a

straigh t u p th e flak e whic h w e couldn' t resist . And y le d u p an d foun d a

pi n i n th e crack ! H e place d a tri-ca m nex t t o i t becaus e h e didn' t wan t

t o rel y onl y o n th e pin . I too k th e pi n ou t withou t muc h troubl e a s I

cleane d th e pitch . (W e wer e late r t o rea d i n th e '8 7 Alpin e Journa l tha t

someone ha d lef t a "fixe d pin " 1 n thei r variatio n o n th e route—Oops! )

Farthe r u p th e crack , And y foun d a he x someon e mus t hav e rappe l le d

off , whic h h e removed . Th e roc k wa s graniti c bu t nowher e nea r a s soli d a s

tha t i n Squamish—i t tende d t o crumbl e a bi t underfoo t o n th e slabs . We

als o foun d th e protectio n quit e scarc e s o i t wa s fortunat e th e cllmbin o

was fairl y easy .

The rout e wa s facin g directl y int o th e noonda y su n an d th e hea t wa s

almos t unbearable . Ther e wa s nothin g wron g wit h th e cllmbin q bu t al l I

coul d thin k o f wer e col d drink s an d air-conditioning . B y th e 7t h pitc h w e

had almos t ru n ou t o f water . A t thi s poin t w e wer e onl y halfwa y up.th e

clim b an d ha d ye t t o figur e ou t th e descent , s o I voice d my concern s abou t

th e amoun t o f wate r left . "Let' s g o down . I don' t fee l lik e a n epi c

today, " wa s my rationale . And y didn' t offe r an y resistanc e a s h e wa s jus t

as dehydrate d a s I was . Fro m tha t poin t i t wa s no t difficul t t o rappe l o n

doubl e rope s an d w e lef t n o othe r aea r tha n th e he x whic h wa s I n plac e i n

ou r clim b u p th e flake .

Soon w e wer e bac k a t th e bas e an d succumbe d t o drinkin g som e wate r

fro m a meltin g sno w patch . Althoug h ou r throat s wer e parched , w e san g al l

th e wa y dow n th e trail . We go t bac k t o th e ca r an d drov e of f t o th e

neares t tow n t o bu y a col d sof t drink .

Ah, s o no w yo u thin k th e stor y i s done ! (W e though t so , too! ) . . .

On th e driv e bac k th e su n bega n t o sin k o n th e horizo n i n fron t o f us .

Visibilit y o n th e roa d wa s awfu l a s th e su n wa s jus t belo w th e sunviso r o f

th e ca r an d w e ha d n o sunglasses . Jus t afte r th e Grandvie w exi t t o

Burnab y a ca r i n fron t o f u s pulle d t o th e righ t lan e (w e wer e travellin a

1n th e fas t lane ) an d befor e w e kne w i t w e wer e face d wit h anothe r ca r

PARKED i n th e middl e o f th e lan e (no t a n eas y thin g t o avoi d whe n yo u ar e

goin g 8 0 kph) . And y wa s abl e t o swerv e aroun d i t jus t i n tim e bu t ou r ca r

bega n t o fishtai l becaus e o f th e sudde n turn . We mad e a n S-tur n o n th e

highway , th e wheel s go t caugh t of f th e pavement , w e spu n aroun d backwards ,

- 2 9 -

and flippe d th e ca r ove r completel y t o lan d bac k o n th e wheels . Needles s

t o sa y th e ca r tha t wa s parke d too k off . We did , however , hav e severa l

witnesse s an d w e wer e fortunatel y unscathe d (th e ca r wa s totalled!) . We

made th e repor t an d statement s t o th e polic e an d waite d fo r a driv e home .

So muc h fo r avoidin q a n ep ic—w e woul d hav e bee n safe r o n th e rock !

Participant s

Murie l Pachec o And y Pachec o

FORBIDDEN MOUNTAIN

Cynthi a Hamilto n Jun e 198 7

I touc h th e roc k an d spark s fl y

cloud s gathe r i n th e howlin g wind ,

scatterin g chi ld-Uk e innocence .

Swirlin g sno w chill s me

as I sp y th e menacin g bluff .

Smal l hop e pushe s terror-froze n limbs ,

resigne d t o th e stor m

I dar e no t linger ,

ye t ever y inc h gaine d

cost s ebbi