SilkPayal GuptaB.Sc in Fashion Designing

Silk Silk in the Indian subcontinent is a luxury good. In India,

about 97% of the raw silk is produced in the five Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, West Bengal and Jammu and Kashmir.

Matka is an Indian term for rough handloom silk fabric made from very thick yarns spun out of pierced cocoon in the weft and organize in warp.

Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity (sericulture). Silk is produced by several insects, but generally only the silk of moth caterpillars has been used for textile manufacturing. 

Production/Manufacturing/Processing Techniques

• Sericulture▫ Cultivation of cocoons for

the filaments▫ Best raw silk obtained

from Bombed Mori (moth)

▫ Silkworms hatched up to 3 times a year

▫ 350 to 400 eggs in lifetime

▫ Subject to hereditary infection, eggs destroyed which results in fine silk production

▫ Begin to shape into cocoons

▫ Substance solidifies and filament formed

• Filature Operations▫ Raw silk unwound from

cocoons and collected into skeins in Filature Factories

▫ Cocoons sorted based on color, size, shape, and texture

▫ Hot and cold water so filament can be unwound

▫ “Reeling” is unwinding filament from the cocoon

Production/Manufacturing/Processing Techniques• Manufacturing

▫ Reeled silk formed into silk yarn. “Throwing”

▫ Strands twisted and put through rollers

▫ “Degumming” Yarn washed with soap

to bring out natural shine

• Finishing▫ Calendering and Cireing

Enhance luster▫ Singeing

Smooth▫ Steaming

Raising pile weaves▫ Pressing and Lustering

Removes wrinkles▫ Weighting

Weight lost during demugging

Dyeing process Crispness

Characteristics

• It is versatile and very comfortable.• It absorbs moisture.• It is cool to wear in the summer yet warm

to wear in winter.• It can be easily dyed.• It retains its shape and is relatively

smooth.• It has a poor resistance to sunlight

exposure.• It is the strongest natural fiber and is

lustrous.• It is also known as Queen of fabric.

Uses for the end fabrics

• Blouses • Dresses• Scarves• Pants • Ties• Curtains • Draperies• Cushion covers • Sofa covers

Advantages• Natural Protein Structure

▫ Hypoallergenic fabric

• All-climate fabric▫ Warm and cozy in winter▫ Cool in hot weather▫ Natural temperature regulating properties▫ Outperforms other fabrics in summer and

winter

• Not bulky• Highly absorbent

▫ Can absorb 30% its weight in moisture▫ Will let skin breathe

• Mixes well with animal and vegetable fibers

• Smooth surface resists soil and odors

• Wrinkle and tear resistant• Dries quickly• Strongest natural fiber• Strong like steel yarn in strength• Takes color well• Washes easily• Good for

▫Spinning▫Weaving▫Knitting▫Sewing

Disadvantages •Expensive •Leaves water spots •Yellows with age •Needs special care•Dry cleaning

Fiber Drape Abilities•Good Drape Properties ;

▫Silk flexible enough▫Drapes well▫Tailors well▫Thin

Fiber Care• Dry Cleaned: make sure you tell them that it is

made of silk

• Hand wash:1) Make sure you wash in cool water.

2) Use a small amount of soap or mild detergent to wash the silk.

3) After washing it, rinse in cold water.

4) Hang it or lay it flat in a shaded area to dry.

5) If pressing is needed, use an all cotton iron board cover, a low or moderate steam setting, and press on the wrong side of the fabric while ironing.

Quiz

• Silk is good for all EXCEPT…▫ A. Spinning▫ B. Layering▫ C. Sewing▫ D. Weaving

• Silk is also known as___ of fabric.

• Silk can’t be dyed easily.▫ True or False?

• Silk is versatile and absorbent.▫ True of False?

• What are 3/5 steps for hand caring for silk?

References"sb117", Initials. (2010, July 11). Silk fiber | characteristics & uses of silk

fibre & fabric in textile. Retrieved from http://articles.textileclass.com/silk-fiber-characteristics-uses-of-silk-fibre-fabric-in-textile/

Silk manufacturing process. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/silk-manufacturin-process.html

Silk. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.fabrics.net/silk.asp

Cherry, R. (2010). History of sericulture. Retrieved from

http://www.insects.org/ced1/history-of-sericulture.html

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