Spring Guide

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How To:Build A Birdhouse

Budget GardenChop Down A Tree

Acid Wash ConcreteBuild A Lean-To Shed

Fix A Leaky FaucetDecorate Your HouseBuild A Dog House

Choose The Right SoilProtect Your Carpet

Fix A Pop-Up SprinklerRestain Cabinets

Remove TileCollect RainwaterHire A Carpenter

AND MORE...

2 0 1 1 S P R I N G H O M E I M P R O V E M E N T April 28, 2011

NourishmentFor The Soil

By Tresa Erickson

No matter how well you tend to your lawn and garden,the soil will lose nutrients over time.To give it a boost, you mayneed to make some amendments.

One of the easier ways to boost the nutrients in soil isto fertilize it.You will find a number of fertilizers on the market,one of which is sure to suit your needs.

If you are looking for a greener, more organic option,you might want to try compost. Making compost is easy. Buildor set up a compost binand fill

it withy a r dwaste,t a b l escraps

and the like.Turn it each time you add new

material and try to keep the green and brown material equal.If you would rather not mess with compost, you have

other options. You may use dead leaves, farm manure orcomposted cotton burrs.You may use peat moss or mushroomcompost.You may also mix organic materials like greensand andbone meal.

Whatever amendments you choose, you may add themto your lawn and garden in a number of ways.You may spreadone to three inches of the amendment on top of the soil andlet nature take its course.You may work the amendment intothe top six inches of soil, which may also improve drainage inareas with sandy or heavy clay soil. You may place theamendment around plants or in holes you intend to fill withplants. You may apply the amendment to the lawn with aspreader.

You may amend your soil at any time, but the fall is idealsimply because plants need it then after a long summer ofgrowth. The consistent rainfall at that time will also help workthe nutrients into the plant roots.

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Is Carpet Protector A Rip Off?By Mike Melancon

What does carpet protector do for my home and whyis it necessary? The best analogy I have is that carpet protectorworks much like wax on your car. Road tar, bird bombs, dust,mud, UV damage, and many other types of hazards are kept atbay by a quality protectant. Does it prevent the car from gettingsoiled? No. But it does protect the paint from damage and makethe vehicle much easier to clean and maintain.We all know thatwax is no longer used on automobile paint. Synthetics haveprovided better protection for less effort than wax basedproducts. They have taken over the market. Rule is that thedamaging elements will either destroy the vehicle paint or theeasily replaceable topical applications.This is why we “wax” ourvehicles, to protect the paints and clear coats from damage.Thesame can be said for your soft textiles in your home.

Sand is the big killer of carpets.There are over 30 cuttingedges per grain of sand and the friction and pressures causedby all types of traffic in the home shred the fibers leaving aheavy traffic lane. Vacuuming is the most important step inpreventing this damage, but a protector actually makes yourvacuum work more efficiently to remove all types of loose soil.Protectors also provide great coverage for all types of spots andspills. Drinks, urine, food products, grease, and many othercommon spots and spills can be disasters averted with a qualityprotector. Does this make a carpet bullet proof? Absolutely not,but it does provide a great barrier if you get to the spot in areasonable amount of time, you can remove the spot manytimes with just a damp clean towel or a mild approved spottingsolution. A truly reputable cleaner will apply a protector withacid dye resistors built into the protector.Acid dye resistors arebasically a color blocker that works very well against spills suchas colored kid’s drinks, colored energy drinks, wines and manyothers.

So how do you know which product will be effectiveand will be worth the extra investment? The industry isgoverned by several agencies that help to guide a concernedcleaning firm. Some examples of these governing forces areIICRC (Institute of Inspection Cleaning and RestorationCertification), and CRI (Carpet and Rug Institute). IICRC trainstechnicians how to do their job correctly. Even the best producton the market will fail if it is improperly used. Each trainedprofessional in your home will have their own IICRC cardproving that they have taken the time and effort to learn howto do their job correctly. CRI ensures that your carpets andcarpet protectors in your home have been tested and withproper application, maintenance, and usage, you will get the bestvalue and life out of your products in your home. I am sure thatthere are other firms out there doing a great job; this is just acouple of examples of who you can trust. Both CRI and allmajor carpet manufacturers suggest that quality protectors beapplied after EVERY professional carpet cleaning to best protectyour investment.

You never know what the carpet cleaners are applyingto your fabrics in the sprayers. Feel free to ask! A cleaner whois taking the time to fly across the country for tainting, and whois not afraid spend the extra money for the quality productsversus the cheap knock offs will be VERY happy to explain whatthey are applying in your home. In the end the cleaner whopurchases the best products, and receives the best training mayactually make fewer profit margins but will have a client for life.If you can’t trust your service people, you need to get newservice people in your home.Are we here to make a living? Yes,but reputable service people are excited to explain how theyare taking care of their clients instead of “taking their clients tothe cleaners”!

3

2 0 1 1 S P R I N G H O M E I M P R O V E M E N T4 April 28, 2011

Kitchen CabinetsBy Tresa Erickson

You're planning a kitchen remodel, and like manyhomeowners, you are looking for ways to cut costs and stay onbudget.The more work you do yourself, the more money youcan save. One task that you might consider doing yourself isstaining the cabinets. It will take you some time but save yousome cash in the long run. Here's how to go about it.

To stain your cabinets, you will need some 120-gritsandpaper, 220-grit sandpaper, wood conditioner, paintbrushes,tack cloths, rags, stain and polyurethane. Some expertsrecommend water-based stain and sealer because they areeasier to work with, while others insist on oil-based productsbecause of their durability. Do some research to make the rightchoice for you.

Once you have all of the supplies in hand, you can startthe process by preparing the bare wood. Using 120-gritsandpaper, lightlysand the wood inthe direction ofthe grain; this willprevent scratches.Remove all of theloose dust with atack cloth. Thensand the cabinetsagain, this timeusing 220-gritsandpaper ; thiswill create asmooth finish.

R e m o v eall of the loosedust with a tackcloth and apply acoat of woodconditioner to the cabinets. Let it dry completely and then applya coat of stain to the cabinets. Brush on the stain with apaintbrush following the grain of the wood.Then take a rag andrub the stain into the wood using a circular motion. Finish thestaining by wiping along the grain of the wood one final time toensure an even finish.

Let the stain dry completely. Then apply two coats ofpolyurethane following the manufacturer's directions. Once youhave sealed the cabinets, make sure you give them ample timeto cure before you have them installed in your kitchen.

Staining your cabinets yourself can save you money bigtime in your kitchen remodel. Just be sure you have done yourhomework and have the time to commit to the project.Remember, you will be living with your cabinets for some time,so make certain they look good.

Fix A Broken Pop-UpSprinkler

As pop-up plastic sprinkler heads get older, they tend toget stuck in the up position, leaving them vulnerable todestruction.A broken head will result in a water-wasting geyser,high water bills and eventually dead grass in your yard. Replacinga pop-up sprinkler is easy; just follow these easy steps and keepyour yard looking green as ever.

2 0 1 1 S P R I N G H O M E I M P R O V E M E N T 5April 28, 2011

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1. Cut through the lawn surrounding the sprinkler head,about 12 inches diameter, using a serrated knife or dirt shovelwith a point on the end. (Be cautious not to dig too deep so asnot to puncture the water line.) Please note that if you have a6 inch pop-up or greater, there is a good chance that the pipinghas been run to the side inlet of your head (only a few inchesunderground). Pay special attention to avoid slicing the tubing tothis side inlet.

2. Pry up the section of turf using a hand trowel or smallshovel (about 2-3 inches thick) and set the turf aside to replacelater.

3. Carefully dig away the dirt surrounding the sprinklerhead. Set the dirt in a pile nearby; you'll need it later to refill thehole. Dig down carefully until you reach the water-supply pipe(about 6-8 inches below the grass).

4. Once you have cleared all the way down to the riser(a short vertical pipe connected to the water-supply pipe),unscrew the old sprinkler body and remove it. Be careful not tolet too much dirt fall into the opening of the riser (plug it witha small piece of cloth).The riser may become unscrewed fromthe supply pipe while remaining attached to the sprinkler. Simplyunscrew it from the sprinkler being careful not to damage thethreads at either end. It is sometimes helpful to shove a sharphunting knife into the end of the riser, and twist to remove theriser from the sprinkler. The edges of the knife dig just slightlyinto the riser, allowing you enough contact to twist and removethe riser.

5. Take the old sprinkler body to the store, and buy anew sprinkler body that is the same size as the old one. Thefoolproof way is to buy exactly the same brand and model asthe old. If not, be sure that the new one matches the old in 2ways: (1) same diameter female opening at the bottom, and (2)same overall length. Different brands are different lengths, and ifyou get one that is too long, it will stick out of the grass afteryou install it. Another consideration: if possible, buy a sprinklerbody that has an orange flush-plug top instead of a nozzle,which will make it easy to flush dirt from the line afterinstallation.

6. Wrap a thin coating of teflon tape around thethreaded male end of the riser. Screw in the new sprinkler bodyuntil it is hand-tight.

7. Turn on the sprinkler line for just a moment to blowout any dirt that may have fallen into the line.

8. Turn off the sprinklers, then using the flush-plug ring,pull up the riser, unscrew the flush-plug, put in the plastic filterscreen and screw on the nozzle.

9. Adjust nozzle to align the spray pattern so it spraysonto the lawn, not the surrounding area.

10. Replace the dirt back into the hole, packing it downaround the sprinkler body. Pack the turf back down around thenew sprinkler head.

11. Turn on the sprinklers to check that everything isspraying correctly.

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How To RepairA Leaky Faucet

The most common cause of leaky faucets is also theeasiest to fix.

1. Turn off the water. Before you start, turn the wateroff to your faucet. Look underneath your sink for the pipes thatrun up to your faucet. Along those pipes somewhere will behandles that you can turn to shut off the water to your sink.

2. Turn the handles clockwise to turn off the water.Remember the saying "Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey". Turning thehandle right tightens the handle, and thus turns your water off.

3. Plug up the sink drain once the water has beenturned off. Use either the sink's in-built mechanism for pluggingthe drain, or plug it yourself with a rag. Nothing will ruin yourday faster then having a screw or a washer going down thedrain.

4. Take the faucet handles off. Take out the screw thatis holding them on. Use the screwdriver for this. Some faucethandles might hide theirscrews behind plastic ormetal caps. You mighthave to prythe cap offwith a flatheadscrewdr iverto get att h es c r e w sholding the handles on,or unscrew a cap. Onceyou've removed the screws, pry the handles off with a flatheadscrewdriver. Some handles might come off easily without theneed for prying.

5. Once you have the faucet handle off, remove the oldwasher that was behind the handle. If there is no washer behindthe handle, that is okay, you are going to add one.

6. Take the washer you've purchased. Place the washerwhere the old washer was. Basically the hole in the washershould be just slightly bigger than the post that the handle turns.

7. Put the faucet handle back on the post and put thescrew back in. Tighten the handle until it is "hand tight". Thatmeans tighten the screw until it feels tight without you havingto use extra strength to tighten it.

8. Turn your water back on by turning the handlesunder the sink counter-clockwise.

9. Check it. If everything went well you shouldn't have aleaky faucet any longer. If your faucet continues to leak, trytightening the screws on the faucet handles just a bit more. Ifthe faucet still leaks, then it really is time to call a plumber.


Basic Plywood Dog HouseMATERIALS

Note: Use exterior grade plywood if you don't want to have to prime and paint your dog house every so often.

Two 4 x 8 sheets of 3/8 or 1/2 inch plywoodBox of wood or drywall screws

12 feet of 2x2's or 2x4's11.25 feet of 4x4's

Drywall or wood screwsOptional: Paint brushes

Optional: Primer and paint to cover 40 square feet

TOOLS NEEDEDSaw for cutting plywood and wood

Power screwdriver or hand screwdriver with phillips headTape measure

Pen or pencil for markingStraight edge

Sander or sandpaper block

INSTRUCTIONSCUTTING THE SIDE, BOTTOM AND FRAMING PIECES:

Mark Plywood Sheet 1 with Side and Bottom piecesCut the two Side walls, 24" x 40"Cut the Bottom piece, 32" x 40"

Leave the Roof pieces till later if you likeCut four 2x2’s or 2x4’s 24 inches highThese will be your Framing Supports

Note: If you use thinner plywood, you may need another support in the middle of the long sides

PUTTING SIDES AND BOTTOM TOGETHERNote:When putting in screws, try to get them all the way in or even recess them so nothing pokes your dog

SIDESDetermine which surface of Side 1 you want inside the dog houseYou are going to screw two or three Framing Supports to that side

Turn the plyboard over so the wrong side faces youPlace the first Support under one edge

Continued On Page 8

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Make sure the Framing Support does not stick out past the plywood edgesUse at least five screws in a zigzag pattern to screw Side 1 onto the

Framing Support, going through the plywood firstFasten the next Framing Support on the other end the same way

If need be, add a Support in the middleDo the same with Side 2

BOTTOMDecide which surface of the Bottom you want facing inside.This will be the

FloorPlace Side 1 on it’s long side against a chair

Take another chair and lay the Bottom piece Floor side down on itMatch the long side of the Bottom to the long side of Side 1

Screw them together at the Framing Supports (and elsewhere if yourplywood is thick enough)

Make sure the Supports end up on the inside with the FloorTurn the piece around. Screw Side 2 to the Bottom in the same way

Wow - it's starting to look like you know how to build a dog house, isn't it!

CUTTING ROOF PIECES AND PUTTING ROOF TOGETHER:

CUTTINGCut roof pieces along lines as shown in the drawings

You should have 6 panels 16 x 24 inches and6 pieces 4 x 24 inches

Set aside the narrow pieces for nowTake two 2x4s fastened together or one 4x4 and cut at 39 inches

This is your Roof Support

PUTTING TOGETHERPlace 3 roof panels width-to-width along one edge of this Support

Overlap each end by 4.5 inchesScrew to the Roof Support using three screws per panel in a triangle

patternAt a 90 degree angle, screw the other 3 panels to the Roof Support

Be sure to cover the ends of the previous panels

CUTTING OUT THE FRONT AND BACK WALLSSettle your Roof on the Sides so it looks the way you want it to end upMark the inside (underneath side) of your Roof panels where they meet

the Sides, then removeOn your second sheet of plywood, mark the bottom rectangle of your

Back WallFor the best fit for the peak, stand your roof on end on the plywoodMatch the inside Roof markings to the top of the Back Wall rectangle

Trace the inside of the Roof's upside down V onto the plywoodRemove the Roof and saw around the markings = your Back Wall

Repeat steps for your Front Wall. Flip the Roof on its other end to get thebest match

Saw out the doorway

RAISING THE BOTTOM, ATTACHING FRONT, BACK & ROOFMove your dog house to the final spot you want

Cut at least three 2x4's or 4x4's to fit underneath the bottom of your doghouse across the width

Space at regular intervals under the Bottom, then screw downScrew the Front and Back sections to the respective Framing Supports

Place the Roof back on, making sure it fits well, then screw the peaks of thefront and back to the Roof Support ends

FINAL TOUCHESSand the edges of the doorway and the Roof points

If your dog house is made of regular plywood, like Comet’s, you'll need toprime and paint any pieces exposed to the outside to prevent rot

Make sure to coat the ends of the plywood and also cover the 4" wideRoof pieces on all sides

When all are dry, take four 4" wide pieces and cover the seams made bythe Roof panels then screw pieces in place

With the remaining two pieces, attach to the Front peak

Continued From Page 7


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with a hand scraper. If you have a rather large floor, you may want to rent apower scraper. The sharp blade will get under the tile and break it up moreeasily.

When you have finished removing all of the tile, sweep up all of theresidue and dispose of it properly.You will probably have some gaps and gougesin the subfloor.You may fill these with floor-leveling compound. If the subfloor isreally damaged, you may need to replace it.

Keep in mind that removing the old tile will take time. If you are on atight schedule, you might want to bring in a professional.They will have the toolsand experience necessary to make quick work of the job.

Once you have removed the tile and repaired the subfloor, you canmove on to the next step of installing the new flooring.The procedure for thiswill vary, depending upon the type of material you have chosen. Do yourhomework, take your time and you are sure to end up with a beautiful floorthat will last for years to come.

Removing Old TileBy Tresa Erickson

You've been working on your home for years, and you've saved the besttask for last: replacing your kitchen floor.That grungy white ceramic tile has gotto go. It won't be easy, but it's got to be done.The time has come for you toroll up your sleeves and get ready to do some hard labor.

You will need to gather the proper equipment first. Safety gear is a must.You must wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying shards of tile andkneepads and gloves to protect your knees and hands from bruising as youdispose of the old tile and crawl around the floor.The tile is too worn to save,so your best course of action is to break it up with a small sledgehammer anda towel. You will also need a scraper, either a hand one or a power one, andsome floor-leveling compound.

To remove the tile, place a towel over a section of it and use thesledgehammer to break it up. Then remove all remaining pieces and adhesive

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Collecting RainwaterRecycle your rainwater and keep your landscaping lookinghealthy, the eco-friendly way. Building a rainwater collectionsystem is fast, easy and can save you money on your water bill,as well as significantly reduce your total water usage.edit Steps

1. Cut a bucket to create the top of your rainwater tank.The top of your rainwater collection system is made by

cutting the top off a five gallon / 10 liter food safe bucket. An

important thing to keep in mind when putting together yourrain collection system is that standing water can be a haven formosquitoes.The top will be used to secure a paint strainer tothe top of the bucket, thereby keeping large objects andmosquitoes from getting into the barrel and spoiling your watersupply.

With your 7/8 / 2.2cm spade bit already attached toyour power drill, put a hole in the side of the five gallon bucketto get your jigsaw rolling and cutting easily.

2. Use your permanent marker and the top of the fivegallon bucket and trace around the top of the 55 gallon / 210liter drum.

Just like you cut the starter hole on the five gallonbucket, use your drill with the 7/8 / 2.2cm spade bit and put ahole in the top of the 55 gallon / 210 liter drum.

Follow the guideline around the top of the barrel.The top of the five gallon bucket should fit snug in the

opening of the 55 gallon / 210 liter drum.

3. Spout it out. No one likes a leaky spout especiallywhen the whole point of your rainwater collection system is toreduce the amount of wasted water.

A sure way to get your spout to fit nice and tight intothe bottom of your 55 gallon / 210 liter drum is to drill a holeusing your 7/8 spade bit.

Take your half-round file and file down the inside of thehole until you have a nice fit.

Screw the 2cm spigot in securely.When you have a good fit, set your drum up on cinder

blocks.

4. Add a gutter extension.Using the existing downspout from your gutters, add an

extension to run down into the collection barrel.Any hardwarestore will carry a variety of extension and fittings for this. Make


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sure to save the receipt so you can return any of the unusedfittings.That way the hardware store can take the financial hit foryour lack of accuracy.

5. Measure and mark where you need to cut the fittingso that the end will run into the top of your rainwater collectionbarrel.

Most fittings are made of flexible plastic and can be cutwith a utility knife.

It may be necessary to use a splice to fit the end ofyour existing downspout into the extension. Push these twopieces together until they are nice and snug.

Use brackets to secure the fitting to side of your house.

6. Ensure a proper fit. Before retiring your jigsaw for theday, you need to cut a hole in the lid of your 5 gallon / 10 literbucket, as this will keep large objects from falling into thecollection barrel.

Measure aroundthe opening ofyour drain.Use the 7/8th

inch / 2.2cmspade bit to drill astarter hole.Cut the

remainder of thelid with yourjigsaw.Place the lid on

the top of thebucket to checkfor proper fit.

7. Strain the drain. To prevent the collected organicmatter from hanging too far down into the rain barrel, tie a knotin the strainer before installing it into the lid.

8. Place a gutter strain in the gutter on your roof. Thiswill keep large debris from working its way down the fittingsand potentially clogging the gutters.You will have to get up nearthe rooftop to clean this type of strainer.

9. Enjoy using your rainwater collection system. Notonly does it save water and your pocketbook, it's so much fun!You may never need to recruit help around the yard again.

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Timber!By Tresa Erickson

You love all of the mature trees surrounding your house.They are what attracted you to the property in the first place.Unfortunately, some of them have been struck down by diseaseand need to be cut down.You have never felled a tree beforeand could use some tips on doing the task safely.

Before you start, check local ordinances.There may besome restrictions in place on felling trees in your area. Makesure you follow them and use the appropriate supplies.You willneed an axe and a quality chainsaw of the proper size.

Generally, the larger the tree, the harder and the moredangerous it will be to cut down.To reduce the risk, you shouldfind someone reliable to help, preferably someone withexperience in felling trees.You should also select a nice calm dayto tackle the chore. Do not try to cut down a tree on a daywith strong winds.They could whip the tree in a direction youdo not intend.

You may cut down small trees less than six inches indiameter in one pass. Larger trees, on the other hand, requiremore work.To start the process, determine first how the treenaturally leans and how weighted it is.This will tell you on whichside you should notch the tree and where it should fall.The areawhere it falls should be fairly open and on even ground. If it isn't,the tree could get stuck on another tree or catch on somethingas it falls, or it could bounce, roll and kick back at you once ithits the ground.

Next, you need to assess the condition of the tree.Dead trees will be easier to cut down.To determine if the treeis completely dead, hit it with an axe. A hollow sound indicatesthe tissue inside is dead; a thunk indicates some of it is still living.If this is the case, you may have to work a little harder to getthe tree down.

To make the actual cutting and cleanup afterwardseasier, you should remove as many branches as possible,especially any that might stop the tree from falling. Then youmay make the notch. Again, this should be on the side of thetree you want it to fall toward. Cut a third of the way throughthe tree near the base.This will serve as the bottom cut.Thenmake the top intersecting cut a foot above at a 45-degree angle.When you are ready, move to the other side of the tree andmake the final cut two inches above the bottom cut in order tocreate a hinge.This will ensure the tree does not kick back andupward.

The moment you hear the tree crack and begin tomove, get out of the way fast and let others know the tree isfalling.The tree should fall fairly quickly.Wait a few moments toensure it is not going to roll and then cut it up, starting with anyremaining branches and finishing with the trunk.

Felling a tree imposes a great deal of risk. Familiarizeyourself with the process and make sure you know what youare doing. Get a buddy to help you and work carefully.


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Acid Wash YourConcrete

Acid washing is also known as acid etching. It involvesusing muriatic acid to remove stains from concrete, preparingthe surface for staining or creating designs for aesthetics.This isnot to be confused with acid staining, which can be done afterpreparing the concrete floor by muriatic acid washing.

1. Hose down the entire area. If the acid could comeinto contact with any of the surrounding surfaces, wet thosedown, too. This includes walls, cabinetry, carpeting, doors anddoor frames. Remove any furniture in close proximity.

2. Mix the acid in a plastic bucket. Fill the bucket withwater first, then sprinkle the acid into the container slowly. Use3 or 4 parts water to 1 part acid.The proper concentration willdepend on how shiny the flooring is: If the concrete is shiny, veryhard or smooth, you'll want the mixture to be stronger.

3. Pour the acid wash solution into a spray bottle orsprinkling can. Spray or sprinkle the solution onto the concreteflooring you're etching. Immediately start scrubbing the floor, orget the floor machine going. If you're using a machine, you'llneed to manually do the corners and other areas the machinecan't access. Keep the floor wet throughout the process; youmay need to hose it down every few minutes.

4. Neutralize the acid after you're done scrubbing. Mixthe neutralizingsolution in anew spraybottle accordingto themanufacturer'si n s t r u c t i o n s ,then spray itonto the floor.Scrub or use themachine again

to ensure that all the acid is neutralized. Pay particular attentionto the edges and any low spots in the concrete.

5. Rinse the floor again. Use a push broom to gather thewater into one area. Suck up the used water with a shopvacuum. Call your local hazardous materials disposal center andask how to properly dispose of the waste water according toyour local regulations.


Carpenter WantedBy Tresa Erickson

You are a do-it-yourselfer. You enjoy tackling projectsaround the house and spend many weekends doing so. Whileyou are skilled in many areas, you most certainly are not acarpenter. You can't cut a piece of wood straight, much lessmake the cabinets you need to house the entertainmentcomponents in your family room.You need a carpenter.

Carpenters generally fall into two categories: rough orfinish. Rough carpenters specialize in building homes, particularlyin framing them and making sure everything is level, square andplumb. Finish carpenters specialize in the detail work, installingtrim, banisters and the like. Some finish carpenters specialize inbuilding cabinets and furniture. They are known ascabinetmakers. Since you are interested in cabinets, you mightwant to look for a cabinetmaker or a finish carpenter who hasexperience in building cabinets.

You should treat the process for hiring a carpenter justlike you would for any other professional.Ask family and friendsfor recommendations, browse through listings in The Nickel, andcheck online at Buzztown.com. From these sources, draw up alist of potential candidates. Conduct phone interviews and findout about the carpenter's skills, qualifications, availability andfees. Discuss the work you would like to have done and see ifthey are interested.

The information you gather from your phone interviewsshould help you narrow your list considerably. Then you canmeet with each candidate face to face and find out more. Makesure you ask to see a sample of their work and get a list ofreferences. Check out the references and find out what thecustomer did and did not like about the carpenter's work.Discuss with the carpenter again the work you would like tohave done and ask them to give you an estimate in writing.

Once you find a carpenter you like, hire them and askthem to write up a contract for the work.This will ensure thereare no misunderstandings. Work out a schedule with thecarpenter and keep in contact with them to ensure they meetyour expectations.

Improve Your HomeWith Personalized Decor

By Morgan Grainger

When juggling the demands of work and family, busyhomeowners often reach for the ease and convenience ofmass-produced décor to create an atmosphere that reflectstheir own personal style. However, this “one-size-fits-all”approach to home decorating can often lead to lifeless roomsthat weren’t created so much to be lived in as they were tobeing looked at. Avoiding the cookie cutter motif is easier thanyou may think.

In his reality television series, “Top Design”, on Bravo,Chicago interior designer, Erik Kolacz repeatedly demonstratedthe importance of infusing personal tastes into the design ofyour home. “Regardless of whether you’re reworking a familyheirloom to fit your décor or browsing the isles at Target, in theend you have to live in your home,” says Kolacz.“Be patient, andstick to what appeals to you, and you can’t go wrong.”

Kolacz suggested that one of the easiest ways to workpersonal style into home décor is through thoughtful choices inartwork. “Utilizing the skill and expertise of a custom framermakes a huge difference in how well a piece will fit into your


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space,” says Kolacz. “When choosing a custom framingprofessional to assist you, look for a framer that asks questionsabout where the piece will be and not just the piece itself.”

Another easy way to bring new and seasonal colors intothe home is adding to or changing existing art and décor.Changing the matboard and framing of artwork is a nice optionto make a room feel new again. Add some matching pillows oraccents with color and suddenly the room is fresh and new.

“Home design TV shows have really increased people’sinterest in interior design over the past few years and they’verealized the importance of color in the home,” says Schmidt,whose work has appeared in Architectural Digest, In Style, andMetropolitan home.

Schmidt also recommends visiting a professional customframer for a personal consultation and a variety of ideas onbringing new color into the home with custom framing.Professional custom framers carry a wide selection of matboardcolors, great tools, like Color Trends Forecasts, and are trainedto help customers to accentuate the artwork and their home.

Schmidt says, “People are more and more sophisticatedwhen it comes to color and decoration.You can’t just throw upplain artwork anymore and have it look like it’s a finished room.You really need to look at your color scheme and bringcomplementary or blended colors into the room.”


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Spring Gardening On A BudgetIf you're a keen gardener when spring arrives, you're probably aware

just how easy it is to spend a lot on new plants, possibly way more than whatyou'd bargained for.Yet, if you do a lot of the work yourself, getting ready for aspring garden can be a wonderful weekly activity from planting to blooming, andis a pleasant way to welcome in the new season without having to spend afortune.edit Steps

1. Start with a budget. If you know what your budget allowance for thegarden is from the very beginning, you will have something to stick to and ifthere is anything left over, you can reward yourself with something extra. If youdon't have a budget, you will probably overspend, so don't skip this essentialstep.

2. Use your own seed. Keep seeds back from the previous season fromflowers and vegetables that grew in your garden. Allow the seeds to dry (toprevent mildew over winter) and place in separate bags, well labeled. Storesomewhere that is warm and dry over winter. As spring gets closer, plant theseeds in seedling trays and keep indoors near a window that gets a lot ofsunshine.Water and tend to them regularly and you will get a head start on thenew season's plantings.

If you haven't managed to do this from last season, ask your neighborsor family members who garden for spare seeds that they saved from theirgardens. Look in The Nickel for discount days at your local garden center orhardware store to get seeds at a very good price.

3. Strike cuttings. If you fancy the plants that are growing in someoneelse's garden, ask if you can take cuttings from them to strike your own. Manygardeners are very pleased to be asked this and will let you collect a fewcuttings.

Botanical gardens often have mid-winter to early spring pruning clearouts in rose gardens, etc. Phone up to ask when this happening and to seewhether members of the public can get cuttings from these tidy-ups (just avoidpicking out anything that is diseased or rotten).

4. Wait until frost season has cleared. Once the likelihood of frost hascleared, take the seedlings outdoors and continue watering them in their trays.Do this for a week or two, to help them transition from the indoorenvironment to the outdoor one.

The budget-conscious gardener won't rush this step, otherwise you'llhave to find more seedlings to replace the ones you've lost.

Read How to grow seedlings, How to thin out seedlings and How tokeep birds off your seedlings for more ideas.

5. Create a garden plan on paper. In the same way that a shopping listhelps you to curtail overspending in the store, a garden plan helps you to avoidover-purchasing of whims when you go to the garden center. Draw in theflowers, the vegetables, the ornamentals, the decorations, etc. that you'd like inyour garden this year, in their exact places. This plan will guide you on buying"just enough" and no more. And don't forget to take account of plants thatyou're already growing yourself.

6. Keep an eye on garden sales in The Nickel. When the sales are on,this is an excellent time to buy the garden sale items in bulk. Naturally, only buywhat you will use but have an eye for a good bargain, including forupdating/replacing, and so forth of new garden tools, hoses, netting, and otheressentials.

Only buy in bulk if it will be used and is a good price. Don't gooverboard on gimmicky things like plastic garden decorations.They clutter thegarden and may not be made from very good materials. Put your moneytoward plants and gardening tools you really need instead.

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