7/31/2019 Stitch Type Classification

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Standard stitch typeclassification guide

7/31/2019 Stitch Type Classification

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

Stitch type 101

Face side Under side

Approximate Seam length : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5

This type of stitch is formed with one thread introduced from one side of the material only.Single thread chainstitchs are often used for temporary stitching (i.e. basting) or for blind stitching.Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.

Stitch type 103Under side

Approximate Seam length : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 4.5

This type of stitch is formed with one thread and a curved needle which passes from left toright, entering and exiting from the same side of the material carrying a needle thread which isintercepted by a blind looper.The thread interloops with itself on the top surface.Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.

Stitch type 209

This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It is a machine made version of traditional handstitching sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.

A

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 2.5

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B).A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B).Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces ofthe material or materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needleto bobbin thread.

Stitch type 301

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A

Stitch type 304

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5.5

The 304 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Lockstitch.To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed.This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B).A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B).Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the materialor materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.

A

Stitch type 401B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5.5 Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B).Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops ofthread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the materialbeing sewn.

A

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 7 Face side Under side

The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch.Its formation is similar to the 401stitch. To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moveslaterally as the material is fed. This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A)and one looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced andinterlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of thebottom ply of the material being sewn.

Stitch type 404

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A A1

Stitch type 406

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 15.5

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: two needle threads (A & A1) and one looper thread (B).Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loopsof thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.

A

A2

Stitch type 407

B

Face side Under side

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20

This type of stitch is formed with fourthreads: three needle threads (A, A1 & A2) and one looper thread (B).Loops of the needle threads (A, A1 & A2) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loopsof thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.

A C

A1

Stitch type 408B

B1

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 17 Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed using five threads; two needle threads (A & A1), two looper threads (B & B1) and oneTop covering thread (C). This stitch is two rows of 401 two thread chainstitch with a top covering thread laid on theupper surface of the material being sewn.

Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops ofthreads (B & B1). The top covering thread (C) is laid between and around the needle threads on the surface ofthe material The interloopings of the neeedle and looper threads are drawn up against the underside of the bottom

ply of the material being sewn.

Face side Under side

A1

7/31/2019 Stitch Type Classification

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A

Stitch type 503

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 10.5

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looperthread (B). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and brought to the edge where theyare interlooped with thread (B). The loops of thread (B) are extended from this interlooping to the point of needlepenetration of the next stitch and there are interlooped with thread (A).

A

C

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 14

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and oneupper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material andinterlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upperlooper thread (C).Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitchand there, they are interlooped with thread (A).

C

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 16.0

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upperlooper thread (C). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of

thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upperlooper thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of thenext stitch and there, they are interlooped with thread (A).Stitch type 505 is very similar to stitch type 504. The main difference is that in stitch type 505 the lower looper thread(B) Is tighter and the needle thread (A) is looser than in stitch type 504. Stitch type 505 is a three thread version ofstitch type 503.

Stitch type 504

A

Stitch type 505

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A

A1

C

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 15.5

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and anupper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interloopedwith loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread (B) areextended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C) areextended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped withthread (A).

A

A1

C

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20.0

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and anupper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interloopedwith loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread (B) areextended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C) areextended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped withthreads (A & A1).

A

A1

B

Stitch type 515B1

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 17.5

This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401, using threads (A & B), a specifieddistance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 503 using threads (A1 & B1) on the edge of the

material.

Stitch type 512

Stitch type 514

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A

A1

B

Stitch type 516B1

C

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20.0

This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401 (A & B) a specified distance from theedge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 (A1 , B1 & C) on the edge of the material.

A

C

Stitch type 602B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20.0 Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B); and onecover thread (C). Loops of thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on thesurface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B)on the underside.

A

A1

C

Stitch type 605B

Face side Under side

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 27.0

This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2) ; one looper thread (B); and onecover thread (C). Loops of thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the

surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) onthe underside.

A1

A2

7/31/2019 Stitch Type Classification

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Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A

A2

A1

C

Stitch type 607B

Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed with six threads: four needle threads (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3); one looper thread(B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3) are passed through loops of thread (C)already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped withloops of thread (B) on the underside.

A3

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 32.0