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THE ICON ISSUE

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CREDITS

Publisher Vivian-Anne Gittens (246) 430-5425

EditorialPublication Editor

Hermina Charlery

Contributing Writers Hermina Charlery, Coretta Joe, Tyson Weekes, Amanda Haynes

DesignImageworx: Paul Bailey

PhotographyJaryd Niles-Morris, Himal Reece (page 10)

ModelsCover – Ramon of GADAL Model Management

Clothing – All items excluding inside shirt from RojoePage 3 – Nakeem of GADAL Model Management

Clothing – All items excluding inside shirt from Rojoe

Make-Up Riseé Chaderton – Mandy Cummins

Bonnie Hearty – Leann Edghill

4 december 2013

Hair Adaeze – Ramon Omari

Feature Location (page 12, 13)Fusion Restaurant & Lounge, Bayshore Complex, Bay Street

AdvertisingAdvertising Manager

Paulette Jones (246) 430-5412

Sales Executives Kelly Johnally (246) 430-5515

Rohnelle Primus (246) 430-5579

CirculationCirculation Executive

Goldburn Weekes (246) 430-5501

Marketing Marketing Manager

Valerie Hope

PrintersPrintweb Caribbean Ltd

(246) 434-6719 / (246) 467-2895

THE ICONS: Roland “Rojoe” Bascombe

Rhaj PaulRiseé ChadertonI S S U E

ICONTHE

THE UP AND COMING:Kesia EstwickRyan Wilfred

AdaezeKas Taylor

Bonnie Hearty

Stylewise is produced by The Nation Publishing Co. Limited; a subsidiary of The Nation Corporation, which is a member of the One Caribbean Media (OCM) group of companies.

Every effort has been made to ensure that the information contained within this magazine is accurate. However, the Nation Publishing Co. Limited cannot be held responsible for any consequences that may

arise from any errors or omissions. This publication cannot be copied in whole or in part without explicit permission from the publisher.

©2011 Nation Publishing Co. Limited

fluent in

Ronald Bascombe“Rojoe”style

5

one of the most successful fashion designers on the island

the icon issue

Rojoe’s tips for the Season

• When wearing a two-button jacket,

do NOT fasten the bottom button.

• Ensure the jacket sleeve is at least half

an inch above the shirtsleeve.

• If wearing a tie, ensure the bottom of the

tie falls right above the belt buckle.

• For the best fit, wear pants on the waist

and not on or below the buttocks.

• Instead of traditional neutrals (navy blue,

black, grey & brown), use accent colours

for the socks.

• Shoes are the foundation for an outfit.

When selecting a suit, start with the

shoes.

• Inspect and assess the detail in clothing

before purchasing (e.g. inner piping and

lining for suit jackets).

in the fashion world, staying relevant is a challenge that many designers have failed to surmount. The traits shared by those who have prospered are the

abilities to carve a clearly defined style identity, with layers of authenticity and a timeless quality. Fashion is a cycle replete with ebbs and flows that fluctuate with the changing popularity of whatever style is contemporary. Even though consumers and designers never admit to (and sometimes staunchly deny) being trend followers, only a few have actually dared to be different. Roland Bascombe, more familiarly known as Rojoe, has for thirty years been one of the most successful fashion designers on the island, surfing the fashion wave by combining forward-thinking elegance with abstract patterns, vibrant colours and ready-to-wear designs. Almost as fascinating as his designs and tailored cuts was the sight of him floating between three sewing machines during the entire interview. It soon became apparent that here was a man who knew his trade and had risen to the top of his game and the competitive Barbadian menswear market through hard work, patience and passion. Intermittently pausing to chat before resuming his finishing touches to a custom suit for a client, Rojoe candidly (and in some cases inadvertently) revealed that he is a man who inherently understands and speaks the language of today’s fashion-centric man. With the zeal of a young intern, he recalled always admiring designs for down-to-earth individuals with worldly tastes (much like himself), and how this eye for quality inspired him to shift from designing surf wear (his first foray into fashion) to more formal pieces. Despite having a faithful clientele consisting of locals and returning tourists from Brazil, England and even further away in Germany, the former lead designer for the now defunct apparel company Irie Blue evolved his personal style and resultantly transformed Barbados menswear into

I can make anything. The quality of my clothes is so great that I made a pair of pants took them in a Hilfiger store and the attendant asked me if I wanted them exchanged,”

the salient, casual-deluxe market that it is today. By establishing and personally wearing pieces that are as easy to understand as they are wearable, Rojoe played a huge role in shifting men’s fashion from loose fitting casual clothes, to more fitted, self-expressive designs. Breaking the sequence of the whirring machines (and my best efforts to be a fly on the wall), Rojoe, as if he could anticipate my next question, suddenly blurted: “There isn’t a limit to anything I can do (pointing to one of his mahogany carvings) I didn’t go anywhere to learn this – God gave me my special training.” “From baggies [surf shorts] I went into more fashionable clothes such as jeans, suits, dress pants and even ties – I can make anything. The quality of my clothes is so great that I made a pair of pants took them in a Hilfiger store and the attendant asked me if I wanted them exchanged,” he quipped. An inspiration to a plethora of Barbadian and regional designers, models and fashion junkies, Rojoe’s stature and influence on men’s fashion for three decades earns him the titular distinction as a style icon.

december 20136

Dimitri in one of Rojoe’s designs.

“I didn’t go anywhere to learn this – God gave me my special training.”

7the icon issue

xBeard ThingThe

Rhaj Paul

just before the beard trend dies with the New Year, designer Rhaj Paul reflects on the allure of his silver strands, street style’s big facial hair, and how it all symbolizes the power of influence.

8 december 2013

9

His beard is really big, really boss and grew with his latest business, the streetwise brand EVOLVE. It’s managed by the designer and his wife/business partner, Keshia Avonda Paul. I tell him the story is almost too perfect; sitting across from me in a snapback and a slim fit EVOLVE “Wow” tee, it’s very tempting to imagine Rhaj Paul is an urban, sartorial Ghandi. As we talk about young men’s obsession with full, noticeably groomed facial hair, I learn that Rhaj Paul’s ‘beard thing’ is a heart thing- and it runs much deeper than style.

Has the beard trend picked up in Barbados?

It seems a little bit to me like it’s falling off. But it’s been popularwith a lot of street guys, a lot of street culture.The way the

younger guys are wearing it – that is what is different to me, that’s how you know it’s a trend. Older guys . . . like over 30, 35 or older. Those are the guys that would hold onto their beard just because maybe, it just feels right to them. But when you see younger guys aspiring to a bushy face, that’s a shift from what was common. Around the early stage, about the first year or so, I just started seeing them everywhere! There’s a word for that . . . [“The Baader-Meinhof Phenomenon”, says Google a while later].

Why do you think for lack of a better word mature beard is popular with younger guys right now?

There’s something else that I think affected this trend that I don’t think anyone here is talking about – Muslims. I feel that the anti-Muslim vibe that was there coming off of the Bush era gave rise to the movement on a larger level. The reason why I say so is that there is a principal in metaphysics that says what you resist, persists . . . that which gets attention will grow.

Social psychologists are saying the trend may be a response to less defined gender roles, as a way to assert masculinity.

What do you think?

I agree to an extent. A lot of the time they’re varied influences. I know for sure, especially in England and in rap music, those

black Muslims had a strong influence. One of the strongest influences I would have to say from rap culture today is Rick Ross. That beard was so iconic.

So style is about influence.

Yes, the thing that brings about the influence is the confidence. I feel that while what we see is influential, what we feel is what

nails it down . . . it’s what gives it that authenticity, strength and power.

How long have you been growing your beard?

Two years ago. I really started to grow it when I got back from St. Lucia. When I got here, just as I was going into what I’m

supposed to do and so on, I had this overwhelming feeling to clean myself or something. So . . . I decided to just clean it/shave it all off and let it come again. When parts get discoloured I would just trim them off, and just watch it as it goes.

It’s definitely more than a fashion statement. then. What makes a well groomed ‘boss’ beard:

Well groomed hair, first of all, means clean. It also implies some degree of shaping outside of Rastafari, for example, or anyone

who doesn’t care about being “fashionable”. Check if it’s marked and which styles suit your facial type.

Today, Rhaj Paul prefers to have hair flowing from his chin.

Q:

Q:

Q:

Q:

Q:

A:

A:

A:

A:

Q:

A:

A:

Trezay has been wearing a full beard for 10 years now.

Red Star Lion, “ I have been letting my beard grow not growing my beard, since 2005.

There’s a difference.”

the icon issue

10 december 2013

BelleNatural

Currently rocking a short, kinky textured hairstyle, this naturalista has had an assortment of hairstyles starting with her first relaxer at the age of seven, a jheri curl during secondary school and relaxed hair once again during college. Then one day she decided to cut all of her chemically processed hair off. When the barber refused, Risée took matters into her own hands and started the process herself, leaving the reluctant barber with no choice but to finish the job.

risée Chaderton sauntered into the coffee shop wearing vintage black sunglasses and an ankle-length pale peach jumper. Looking at her, you would find it rather hard to believe that she was a tomboy during her youth. The Bahamian-born, Barbadian-raised mother of one

is a fierce advocate of Caribbean women charting their own path in fashion and beauty.

Be who you are; don’t try to be someone else.

The 39-year-old staunchly rejects European standards of beauty and the very narrow brackets that people create such as the hair-typing chart, a method designed for wearers of natural hair to determine the curl pattern of their hair ranging from 3a to 4c. “I made that decision that I wasn’t going to try to look like somebody else. I had natural hair for a while then I decided I wanted to grow locks. I enjoyed my natural hair. I think that flexibility that it allows you is unsurpassed, really.”

11

“But I think that many women are pressured to have hair that mimics European hair. The beauty standard is that hair should be long and it should be able to blow in the wind and your man should be able to put his hands through your hair,” she continued. Never one to settle or allow her creativity to be stifled, after 13 years of rocking locks in many diverse styles and cuts, Risée cut them off and grew out an afro, even wearing it platinum blonde for a while. Aware that the only recovery from bleaching it blonde was to cut it very short, she went ahead anyway. “I’m not gonna sit down and have my whole life be determined by whether my hair is long or not,” she said matter-of-factly. Owner of Eye One Visuals, a full service photography business, Risée is also known for her work with the Saturday Sun’s Girl Next Door, which she explained was started because of her love for Caribbean women and the understanding that the fashion industry is not particularly kind to them. “Many women that I spoke to would say to me that they didn’t feel beautiful. I wanted to show regular Bajan girls that they had no reason to feel like they’re not beautiful.”

Asserting that she does not follow trends, Risée wears what she feels like and most importantly, what everyone else is not wearing. Her secret for standing out is purchasing her pieces from a local boutique that only carries a few items of the same style. “For me right now I stay away from body conscious clothing. It’s not that I have a problem with my body, but I wanna move comfortably. I like my stuff to be free flowing,” she said, adding that she has developed a love for jump suits. When Stylewise asked about her personal style and beauty mantra, she quipped: “Is it pressed and can I get out of the house and get this child to school before the bell rings? I think one quirky thing I do is that my cupboard is colour- coordinated,” she said laughing. Living in a society predominantly governed by what is popular overseas, Risée urges women to be comfortable with who they are: “I found that women, when they like who they are, they look so much better. They just look prettier; it shows. When people are struggling to look like someone else or struggle to fit into other people’s beauty standards, they look uncomfortable. Be who you are; don’t try to be someone else.”

For those naturals attending swanky Christmas and Old Year’s night soirees, work with your hair texture: “Try not to make your hair do things that it’s not meant to. If your hair does not do an Afro, don’t try to spritz it to make it stay. Maybe pull it back and do an Afro puff. If it’s not long, don’t try to pretend it’s long by slicking it back and try to make it go into one. Having a great cut on short hair and having a stylist who knows how to cut your hair is worth his or her weight in gold,” she advised. For a fashionably festive season, ditch the mundane black and silver and embrace vivid colours such as cobalt blue and rock hot red lips and fabulous, properly applied lashes.

Tips for the Season

Risée’s hair regimen is simple: pure African shea butter mixed with palm oil and the occasional protein treatment. “I don’t actually comb

my hair right now. When I wash it, I usually get a towel and I roll it and that helps the hair to curl up on itself. If I’m going somewhere fancy

smancy, I put a little part and maybe a little bit of kinky curly gel and I’ll go. Of course big earrings because when you have short hair I find that

those are great.”

the icon issue

andComing

up

Kesia EstwickAge 23

Ryan WilfredAge 23

december 201312

THE STUDENT

THE STYLIST

“ I’m right on the edge. I don’t know what

comes next. “

“Forget the rules, I wear my soul.”

14 december 2013

Bonnie Hearty

AdaezeAge 23

Kas TaylorAge 27

andComing

up“My style is it’s own

kind of poetry. I re-iterate what’s said in my music, in the way that I

dress.”

Age 22

THE ARTISTS

THE STUDENT

“Art is my life. I don’t have a particular style, I dress based on how I

feel internally.”

“I’m at the junction where urban meets

preppy & classic.I never chase cool.”