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THE GUMMBD TAPE DRESS FORM

Issued by lhe Enensiotr Serlicc, Massachu*tts Slate College, Amherst, Mass.Julv 1943 Leaflet No. 218

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ONE OF THD MANYThis is only one of the many Massacf,usetfs State Collegeextension leaflets on clothing. Listed below are a few morewhich )ou rlay Nant to obtain.

A122 BultonholesA123-Pockets and Arro$,headsA124-Pleais and HemsA125 Nckline, Edge and Placket FinishsA158 Tools for Se1?ingA161-Make a DressA162-Make a CoatA186-Clolhes ClosetsAlg0-Layettes and Maternity WearA191--{lothing Ior Pre-School AgeA1g2-{lothing for School AgeA209 Mending A B C'sA21o-Reclaim the Family WardrobeA211-Make Your Clothes LastA212-A New Lining for Your Old CoatTo obtain copies of these leaflets, writeRoom, Massachusetts State College, Amherst, lo the MailingMassachusetts.

lurd A. Murcd, dr'tsto', in rur&d coEty En@lon Sdvi.6 coo*drlq.PIDSAT'N OF BG DGiNNT APNOIED XY COMESION ON ADM

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THE GUMMED TAPE DRESS FORMbEslher Cooley Page, Exlension Clothiq Specialist

DRESS Form tuy be a srmt hclp ir rou have a difncult fittins problen,do a srat deal of rnodellins, or harc no one to 6t you. It is also an aidin nakins clothes lor absent mcnbcrs or the housetold.The Gumned Tape Dres Form is ao nlxpensivc and satislactory answer to

such needs. As it,s nrol.led to the individual 6sure, it isa usetul guide irwo.kingout nore beonring line and desig.. Gummed Tap. Dress Forms are:

EASY TO MAKE - the 6rsl one is better Mde under instruction.MADE QUICKLY 35 minutes is aleage time for a 6rst fom.DURABLEDXACT

nDny .re as good.s ne{ afaer 15 years and Eore.a reptia of your proportions and me6urements at

Start With a Good BaseGood Postu.e is essential. For this, you ned to keep p.sture itr Dind cotrtinu-allyand ieel periectly nt at timeol makinslorm. It r.ou slump, thc lorh may beoDe-sided, shoit$z hted, nuch largeratthevaist line, o.h^loth.rfaults. lvith-outthebasGolrourbestposture,thGsortof a DresFo.nanbeasasteof tjneand noney. For a nseful dupliction oI your 6gure at its best today STANDTALL AND EASY. Figure 2.UnderNear shoul.l 6t snoothly r.d closely. Nintc. underwar and gathrsadd bulk and \rill aflect size a shapeolthe DrcssFo r. A foundation sarnrent'or a bra, gi.dle, and a slip are nough.II Fu arc in themarkt Io. a uc\. loun.lation, bly and veor it long enongh lor;t to s.ttlc to your fisure before having a Dress Form mde over it.Check old loundation garments to sec ii the shoulder straps or g,rters need to

bc rcplaed or the loundation leeds to be tighlened with tlcks or draNr in {ith

Construclion TeamFive lereons are an efllcient number lor nrakins a Dre$ For(, Iour workereplus the model. One Norter is necdcd to Doisteo pape., a second to apply stripsto thc front, a third to noistcn lEck st.ips, and a rou.th toapply tbcn. AtenoI NorLers whoaredcrtrous with their handsand @ncentmte on the Dress Formr

speed the process and can nake nve Dres Forns in ^ six-hour day.

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EXTENSION LEAFLET NO. 218Materials Per Form1. Gtrm cd Tnpe: onc 1i00 loot ro11 of I %" \ride oYcnlv gunlned papr tape

2. Fabric Bxse: on. lisfit \'ight, tnit undervest Shlrts nrnulaciured ior tnisuse exten.l nreM).lo\ the lnrscst hip lnre, hare a stort cap slee\a and highneck. Ii such shirts are tot .qil.ble, a saiislactorv base mar bc nrade oIone ya(l ol jcrsc) ttrbins, oll knit und.rNca. or tiin unbleachcd muslin'\\'o\cn labric sh,)uld b..ut io that the nue bias srain runs lcnglh\rise on.enter tront and c.nter bact li 6.3. Dress Form Shn{la t: ono lor exch ianlilv. (see Figure 12 tor 'ne suggestidr) Ol(l hat ttuci rn,l floor l.nlp slanda.ds on bc used'.t. \:rapping papcr: o e pi.cc l..s...ough to.tr1 Fttcrn Ior brse' Fou' siriDsl%" \n[ b 30" 1(mg to u:c as protection nl construction'5. Razor Bh.le: Shnrp .igi.l onc .dge ttpc l.elerablc6. TNo bo{l-.: ablLt quirt si,c.8. Shears, p..cil, trttr' line, r'3rd stick, nccd c' atrd thread

10. Table: i r(uire l. t {u.d trLlc space

PreParationTo nhke tne Dres F.rnr calllr r..l quickl\', ha\e all 'kterials rcadr 'nd i'l.der bciore stirtiis \..h on thc nrn1. AU palid needcd must bc cut and theThree Measurements Are \eed Figure 1.1. Lersth .f \rai:t S(il,' nl.anr'.Iro 1" bcln,l Jrould(.:EanL dbasc ,n neck ) 1 ' bcron(l trnd.r

.ru seam. Nole sho't.i an{llongest possiblc\\iaisl striF r'a. lronr 16" to 20".(Measurement AB)2. Lensth ol skirt st.ips -nrc.surcaroun.l largest hip line. Add 2"anrl rlivide b, t\\.o. For a 40"hip nreasurcnrcnt strip5 should becut 21". Skirt st.ips Lnr) Ir.rn20" up. (MeGurement CD)3. Brlt sizc as. guide to check Naist,rcasu.e ol io.m at nlrerqls,Reco.d lhis on scrap ol iap. andsli.k to tabb n1 a promnrent spot.(Measurement EF)

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Cut Gummed TapeThe obje.r ie to preparc srrips or a Iensrh cooreninr to handte quickty adiit s(oothly. Masurcments AB aDd CD wil si1re an aprroxjoare lengthfoi these. Sbips on be sr,liced and shorrened as seems.tcsiEble. For theaverasc 6sure unde.40 busr size, lreasurenent AB and CD {itl be lron 17to 22 inches. As the ci.cumlerence of th rol .t summe.l lape is about 22inches, Ior many forms 't is possible ro slash rrr.ough the rol;r papc. r.iththe razor blade 1% o. nore inches a.d secu.e strips ot. usable length, Fortheremainder, it qill be neccsFry to unrotl laper ad cut t ""gtl," o, ."qoi.e,l.Tnese shou,d usually be cut to the longest rncasurenent.For fisures und.r 48 bust, cut tape teal ins about a 3,, diamer. ot the rolluncrt, For l.rser 6su.es, it may be nec.ss.ry to unrol and masure allstrips and to usc a fuii roll pcr ,ornr.

THE GU TMED TAPE DRESS FORM

Work Table OrderOrder Speds the Process

Put atrry all itelrs ur.ecessa.y to aciual nr.kirs of Diess Fom. A *e11o.sanized table arangcnent Nill ncb shortetr the prccess_ \\'are. .lrippc(t ont.pc s.ill spoil it lor usc, A diagram oI a sood No.t{ing arranse,nent is on back1. Razor bladeand pcncil a.e ptaccd on uncut rnajdde.cf rollol tap anil away2. 1_a.d stick, taPe line and sncars are convenicnt.3. BoNh ior rzter at side center ol table arc arar lrom so.king a.ca.4. Strips oI p.per sortd into pil.s oI lonsanrl sho.r lcngthsare all la gurnmcdside do$n ii..nrPr.r iibl,'

Adjusl Dress Form BasePut on shirt or other drcss loro base o\t. mininum and orelullv sm.otb.,lundc.*@r.Insert 2layers oI l%" \'ide st.ips.I \rrapping paper down centc. n.ont andcenter back betrreen torn baseand underscar. This rvill serveasa protection toundnlar in cuttlne tfie forlr.Sev trp the certer front oI the shirt basc or ii another type oI basc is used,baste or stick it togethor with srrips oi tapc so rhat ir is hel.l securelt, smoothty,and snusly in position,

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The WorkersSpeed Close Fit - Durability -nd a lishr, nnl touch are rheir {.ar.b-words, Ii srrips arc put on 1oo tishtly io. .ontort, tear them lor reliel. Bothro.ke.s and modcl should keep thrsc points constantl) i Dind. Tine the pro-.ess and attenipt to crceed each reco.d.T\'o \rorkers, seated on oppoiitc sides oI thc tablc {oislen the paper lightlyald complete\' \'ith the sponges, kccpins t\voo' three st.ipsrheadol the \rcrkers

applying pape. to thc lorlr. 1l rhe ftont and bickas-cisrants applyins sirips {illwork inopposite dirc.tio.s ttere Yill beno nrterle.ence. The iront I orkcr nisht,pplr strips l.oD thc risht shoulde. ti, the lclt underarn *.hile th. back yorlie.alplies strips l.om thc lcft shoulde. to rhe rish nl1drarn. (DiagraD on Lrackcover shoNs the set-up. Thc photosraph illust res a dre$ lo n teu nr ope.a-tion. Ther larc nexnr 6n,shc(l tae lirst coat.)

EXTENSION LEATLET NO. 218

Stand Tall and EasyPoslure - Posture - Posture - Check and double check tht sthat you. diess lorm is like you.t your best and docs not bccome shortvaisted or large.t the waist, Stand {.ith one sidc at risht anslcs to theend ol d,e 1able. (Figure 2)

Making The FormI FIRST COATl. CirdlcSccu( thrre o.Iour strips of sunhedtaic ndnly around \aist to Iorma snugsidle, For atr uncorectcd 6surc thissndle should be lidcr tha ,or acoGcted 6sure. Figwe 3. Atd,prlr2r, at Ieast ,8 i,rr, Ch.ct sirdleto see that it does not looscn as \'orkproceeds. ll it docs, slash it andlighlen it up Nitt a ftw girdl.

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THE CUMMED TAPE DRESS FORitI

The sarDe procedu.e is usd in bothlronr and ba.k. $raist strips shouldextend onlv about 1//bc),ond sr,,ld.r,u d.ru,nl, nthret., ant\ *ar\ potitions.Place st.its as shorm in Figure 4 atposition AB. This lray lollos,a linefron ime. shoulder-liie to the hder-arn at rhe drrupit. lI Drore ol an" liii" 's .eed(l, strips may beapplied startnrg at X and rrork'ng np-Nad ro L In this casc ,roceed up-*a,d to AB posilion- Conrinue layingstriis i. this dir.tion u.til they rachthe lin. sho\.n in AB Filtrre 4. Stripsshonl.l .ot extend belorv gir{llc lin.

Co{. thc opposire 'ide procecdilg lrom L toM as sloNn h FiguLe 5. until leirt scct n isIl small scctions at \2irt-line or leck 1 eare not corered b this method, patch thcsesubstadtialh Nitl shorler strips. Fieurc 6.

3. Sknr

uie. (See RS, [ig-

II Check Waist MeasureCoopar \ritl recorded masure. If theIorm is runnirs larg, slash crossiise at$nistlin. and drav it in Nirh addiiioDal

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III Second CoatApply'a smnd coat in cxactly rh same nanner as the 66t, reiniorcnrg anyplacesirher the lor sccnE $eak.

1. For slceres, ctrt 20 or rore strips about l0'/ lons2 Pnll (lPew ttrs do\.n.n arnr.3. DE\, t\ro .i rhree striDs tishtl, up under armpit, pe.Dritting then to$rinklc.t u.derarnl position. (See GH, Fis. 7) Be sure arms hans,., :.\ -n,t .ou a. r. r"trr..,oror1.t luiri.,4. Colcr.' r i.om a point about 3" donn lrco shoulder_bone, sithstrips plnced as sho$n in Fisure 8. Continuc tarkins up to shoulde.-Inr until slee\.ap is thoroughi .overed.

2. Collar1. Fo. collar cut 20 to 30 strips 6" long by %" {ide.2. Pla.e st.ips crossNise t ont and back startiDs at the basc oI thc ncckand building up as shonn in FigureS. Overlap these strips al the sides.

F,XTENSION I-EAFLET NO, 218

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THE GUMMED TAPE DRESS FOR\I qIV Measure for Cutting - Figure 9.U.:nB rtF,"r,l''.^ fl r ., 'u Iud..r hipl"e.-ll,'\arolnd dress lorlr at interyals of about 2" 4.d rccord this measurementon snle back.l D.s 'orh. This rarics rron'2s" to 36" Ironiiloor de-pendins on height oI model.

RETIOVE I'ORM 'Irim .nd Put T{o Hahes Togeaher Immediately.I . Slash drcs torjn lrom nct to hip, 6Et in ,o,r anl then in Ld.i. Use2.3.4.5.

a ,a/, risid onc-edse razor L,ladc, Fisutu 10.Remor tNo hahes ad lbld slashed line.Trim skirt sectioq on ,rarked line,Trin sle cap alr1 collar line.Hold lo r to light and see iI there are any thin spots, lla.k these lor

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EXTENSION LEAFLET NO, 218

6.

7.

4.3.

Put hahcs l.,eerh.r Nilh J" cr.+\'nestrips cl.selr 'pa.ed. Figure rl. :..;R6rlorcc i,sirlc aud outs e slashdline Nith lensthri$ strilis. Iiold tnisline to concenl j,,i.ins, Iigure 12,

Finishing and Uounfing1. A thid, oL inishlng, coat ol suxne,l sniDS sh,,uld be applied Nilhnl24 hous, rinlo. ns .ollrr irnl slecrc cr|s, an,l ..r other Neak sec-tio.s. E\cr drr shfuld hc cireldly serled, The inishins coat nraybc put on nL nn) \rr thnt t,rcscms r sm..lh .nd ncat linish. Thefr.nt..\,r sn.\i hr,) \.ll 6nirh..l l)rp,\ F.rn,,

VI

Iarka paticrn lor thc base b sraDrlnrg nr.m otr \'nppi.g papcr anddralLins oudire. Figure 12. Crt pa e a.d lold c..ss\isc andlensthrLisc to lind ccnter. T.ue anr unreasomble irregularitics. tlsethis pattern to cut a cardb.ard or a l" thick boad to nr irsd, thcbasc ol thc lornr. Sccurc to lofln with glue, tlun,bta.ks, or sunnncdA wadding ol paper nrry be used around the pole of thc standard attte neck to steadr the lorm-Nlount dress lorm on a stanila.a. The Lase ol rhis standard shouldbe heavr, 2 r 4" stock 14" lo,g lor the base and a six ioot polc 1rl'in dialreter are desnable (Fisure 12)

trl

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THE GUMMED TAPE DRESS FOR\IUse of The Dress Form

Your *tisiaction {ith the Gumntd Tapc Dress Form as a dr*E=:a : :riu depend on }our seeing and unde.stanning its likenss and ud .:-:::

Use )ou. nrirror. obse.rr rour pronle beside ttat oI the Dres Fo6 a :c.npare )our posture \rith that ol Iou. Iornr. Has it ben nounted so that theshoulder ansle is thc sanre as yours?Conpare rour lrcasurenrents $ith those oi this loro. Th.y $uallr match.ahhough soDetnne th.r ar.larse. an,l, inftequently, snuller,Ii ihe \ainline is la.scr than \.ur .*n, check on a comlortable belt -.ize too,as this ma) be large. th.rn the ('aisr nEasurenEnt. One inch larger is t.i ial,tso in hes na-\'b annoling. II tlte dress form is much too Iarse at the Mist

you vill reed to Nork out $ars of adjustins your ittins procedure, Tnis isusually a.conplishcd b\ littins a drcs snusly to thc drcss form and taking inany er@ss at ihe und..a n scaDs.ls th;s iorlr shorNaistedl II due kr r ' tircd postu.e" you hare this p.oblem,Fir garlrents norlkllr th.(, sh nc.k, sh.ulder, a.mseye and lou. o. nve in.hesdovn cn thc unde.a.m +,m. Then draN the shoulder seafl uD and Dnr a Ineparallling the finished -boulder seam deep eDough to brins the desird rmistlineinto position- Complet 6rti.g. Il rhe Drs Foro is l% hches too siortrmGted,a % ;n.h tuck along th shoulder linc f thc sarnrcnt Eill renedy this difficlltr.As this lorn is not as pliablc .s )otr a.e, it nBy be nec.ssary to ,eal. a lons

openins in the undrrarm seanr.I thegadnent beingitted, toi.sure eaiy rem.\21.Complete all filtilgs and ha.s the garnnt bfore closins this seatu.h is sometimes necesa.r ro.ut sleel ops stortr, if it G diflicult to adjustlf you gain or lose \reisht, lour drc$ IonD nr.y stilt lE uscfulfo. ncck, shoulde.,and a.nse,ve 6ttinss. A noderatc sain is lcss oI a p.oblcm than leight loss.For larger measurments, Ir1d thc lorm $ith c.Dmpled tissuc aapc. an,l make ajc.*y or fitted linins to so ovcr it.Mark such constructiorlincsas ycur slip top,your lavoriteneck li es,shoulder-lin$, arnsc,le, belt and any othc.lines, that vill aid ,ou id ntti g. Figure 13.Notch thc standard at thc sar.e distanceI.onr the floor that thc skirt oiyour Iorm rvasneasured belore cutting. This sill lrake it

easier toadjust it to,ourexact height.Drc$ tornB .an be clvcrd o. .ot as p.e-iercd. CorEin(s @n be nrade ol old stocking legs, shirts, or a dress lornr shirt may bc,urchased. This is not ssential, nlthoughsome 6nd such a colrrins uscfll in 6tting.Put a one piece dress that 6ts )'ou srtis.,actorily on your D.css Fo.rn an(l compar.the Nay it fits,vou and thc lorm.Your ingenuitr Nill ncb rou flgue m.nyother *a,vs ol nraki.g this a uselul tool Ior

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EXTENSION LEAFLET NO. 2I8THE GT]MMED TAPE DRESS FORM TEAM

0tl,i.-ni::j.-lt:-.-.\

i, AN ORDERLY TABLE SETUPWAT E R. AND