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The American Cookie Story
by Nancy Baggett
Early Cookies: Hard Gingerbread—
Unleavened Cookies
Macaroons—Leavened with Egg Whites
Marguerites—Leavened with Egg Whites
New Year’s Cakes, Springerle-- Unleavened
Jumbals, Jumbles
America’s First Cookbook
First American “Cookey”
Amelia Simmons, American Cookery, 1796Another Christmas CookeyTo three pound flour, sprinkle a tea cup of fine
powdered coriander seed, rub in one pound butter, and one and half pound sugar, dissolve three tea spoonfuls of pearl ash in a tea cup of milk, kneed all together well, roll three quarters of an inch thick, and cut or stamp into shape and size you please, bake slowly fifteen or twenty minutes; tho' hard and dry at first, if put into an earthern pot, and dry cellar, or damp room, they will be finer, softer and better when six months old.
Early Chemical Leavenings
Pearlash--Crude potassium carbonate, called, when purified by recrystalization, pearlash. Saleratus--Originally potassium bicarbonate, it began to replace the pearlash in cookbooks in the early 1850's. As sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) became more common, potassium bicarbonate was discontinued. However, some people continued to call soda 'saleratus' for several more decades.
Chemical Leavenings:Baking Soda
• Founded 1846. Dr. Austin Church and his brother-in-law John E. Dwight, who had been making and packaging baking soda in Dwight's kitchen. In 1867, two sons of Church formed Church & Co. The Arm & Hammer trademark dates from that year; Church & Co. acquired a spice and mustard business, Vulcan Spice Mills, that used an arm and hammer logo.
Chemical Leavenings: Baking Soda
Chemical Leavenings:Baking Powder
Chemical Leavenings:Baking Powder
Pennsylvania Dutch Soft Sugar Cakes
Early Chocolate Maker:Baker’s Rules
Early Chocolate Makers
First Chocolate Cookie
CHOCOLATE MACAROONS. Put a quarter of a pound of chocolate on a time-plate over a coal fire, and when it is dissolved pour it on a plate; put to it a spoonful or two of sweet almond paste, made as for macaroons, stir it in well, and then pour it upon the remainder of the almond paste, in which you have mixed a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon or vanilla, or both: beat them together well in a mortar, lay them on paper, and bake them for three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven.
• From: The Cook’s Own Book (Boston,1832), by Mrs. N. K. M. Lee, copied from Cook’s Dictionary and Housekeeper’s Directory, by Richard Dolby.
Chocolate Cookies
Food Icons:The Quaker Oats Man
One of the earliest American food icons: He was familiar to American consumers by 1893.
First Oatmeal Cookie in America
OATMEAL SNAPS (SCOTCH PERKINS)
16 lbs flour6 ½ lbs oatmeal4 lbs sugar4 lbs lard¾ lb soda3 oz ammonial lb allspice6 ½ qts molassesWash on the top with egg; cut small and pan loosely, as
they spread a great deal.
The Complete Bread, Cake and Cracker Baker, 1881
Modern Oatmeal Cookies
Peanut Butter
Modern Peanut Butter Cookies
The 1933 Pillsbury's Balanced Recipes contains a Peanut Butter Balls recipe with instructions to roll the dough into balls and press them down with the tines of a fork.
Turn of the CenturyChocolate Makers
Breakthrough! Brownies
Lowney’s Brownies
• Lowney’s Brownies• ½ cup butter• 1 cup sugar• 2 squares Lowney’s
Premium Chocolate• 2 eggs • ½ cup nut meats• ½ cup flour• ¼ teaspoon salt• Cream butter, add
remaining ingredients, spread on buttered sheets, and bake 10 to fifteen minutes. Cut in squares as soon as teaken from oven.
• Lowney’s Cookbook, 1907, The Walter M. Lowney Co.
Commercial Cookies on the American Scene
Modern America’s Favorite:
The Chocolate Chip Cookie
Nestle’s Chocolate Chip Cookies1941 Ads
“Chocolafication” of the American Cookie
Repertoire
Cookie Icon:Ernie the Keebler Elf
• Created in 1968 by the Chicago-based Leo Burnett Co., for Keebler, Ernie and his elf friends espoused the "uncommonly good” cookies from the Hollow Tree Bakery.
Cookies: The American Story
THE END