The Best of New England

One of the greatest challenges of traveling in New England is choosing from anabundance of superb restaurants, accommodations, and attractions. Where to start?Here’s an entirely biased list of our favorite destinations and experiences. Over yearsof traveling through the region, we’ve discovered that these are places worth more thanjust a quick stop—they’re all worth a major detour.

1 The Best of Small-Town New England

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• Marblehead (MA): The “YachtingCapital of America” has major picture-postcard potential, especially in sum-mer, when the harbor fills with boatsof all sizes. From downtown, a shortdistance inland, make your waytoward the water down the narrow,flower-dotted streets. The first glimpseof blue sea and sky is breathtaking. See“Marblehead” in chapter 5.

• Provincetown (Cape Cod, MA): Atthe far tip of the Cape’s curl, inintensely beautiful surroundings, isProvincetown. Provincetown’s historygoes back nearly 400 years, and in thelast century, it’s been a veritable head-quarters of bohemia—a gatheringplace for famous writers and artists.It’s also, of course, one of the world’stop gay and lesbian resort areas. ButProvincetown is a place for everyonewho enjoys savory food, fun shop-ping, and fascinating people-watch-ing. See “The Lower Cape” inchapter 6.

• Nantucket (MA): With grand 19th-century homes and cobblestonestreets, it looks as though the whalersjust left. Traveling to the island ofNantucket is like taking a trip to aparallel universe; you get historic

charm but with 21st-century ameni-ties. The island also has shops full ofluxury goods, loads of historical sitesopen to the public, and miles of pub-lic beaches and bike paths. See “Nan-tucket” in chapter 7.

• Oak Bluffs (Martha’s Vineyard,MA): Stroll down Circuit Avenue inOak Bluffs with a Mad Martha’s ice-cream cone and then ride the FlyingHorses Carousel. This island harbortown is full of fun for kids and parents. Don’t miss the colorful “gin-gerbread” cottages behind CircuitAvenue. Oak Bluffs also has greatbeaches, bike paths, and the Vine-yard’s best nightlife. See “Martha’sVineyard” in chapter 7.

• Stockbridge (MA): Norman Rock-well made a famous painting of themain street of this, his adoptedhometown. Facing south, it uses thesouthern Berkshires as backdrop forthe sprawl of the Red Lion Inn andthe other late-19th-century buildingsthat make up the commercial district.Then as now, they service a beguilingmix of unassuming saltboxes andGilded Age mansions that have shel-tered farmers, artists, and aristocratssince the days of the French and

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Indian Wars. See “The Berkshires” inchapter 8.

• Washington (CT): A classic, with aCongregational church facing a vil-lage green surrounded by clapboardColonial houses—all of them withblack shutters. See “The LitchfieldHills” in chapter 9.

• Essex (CT): A widely circulated surveyvoted Essex tops on its list of the 100

best towns in the United States. Thatjudgment is largely statistical, but awalk past white-clapboard houses tothe active waterfront on this unspoiledstretch of the Connecticut River ringsall the bells. There is not an artificialnote, a cookie-cutter franchise, nor acostumed docent to muddy its near-perfect image. See “The ConnecticutRiver Valley” in chapter 9.

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• Grafton (VT): Grafton was once adown-at-the-heels mountain townslowly being reclaimed by termitesand the elements. A wealthy familytook it on as a pet project, and haslovingly restored the village to its former self—even burying the elec-tric lines to reclaim the landscape. Itdoesn’t feel like a living-historymuseum; it just feels right. See “Brat-tleboro & the Southern GreenMountains” in chapter 11.

• Woodstock (VT): Woodstock has astunning village green, a whole rangeof 19th-century homes, woodlandwalks leading just out of town, and asettled, old-money air. This is a goodplace to explore on foot or by bike, orto just sit and watch summer unfold.See “Woodstock & Environs” inchapter 11.

• Montpelier (VT): This is the way allstate capitals should be: slow-paced,small enough so you can walk every-where, and full of shops that still sell

nails and strapping tape. Montpelieralso shows a more sophisticated edge,with its Culinary Institute, an art-house movie theater, and several finebookshops. But at heart it’s a smalltown, where you just might run intothe governor at the corner store. See“Exploring Montpelier & Barre” inchapter 11.

• Hanover (NH): It’s the perfect college town: the handsome brickbuildings of Dartmouth College, atidy green, a small but select shop-ping district, and a scattering of goodrestaurants. Come in the fall andyou’ll be tempted to join in the touchfootball game on the green. See“Hanover” in chapter 12.

• Castine (ME): Soaring elm trees, apeaceful harborside setting, plenty ofgrand historic homes, and a few goodinns make this a great spot to soak upsome of Maine’s coastal ambience offthe beaten path. See “The Blue HillPeninsula” in chapter 13.

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2 The Best Places to See Fall Foliage• Walden Pond State Reservation

(Concord, MA): Walden Pond is hid-den from the road by the woodswhere Henry David Thoreau built asmall cabin and lived from 1845 to1847. When the leaves are turningand the trees are reflected in thewater, it’s hard to imagine why heleft. See p. 155.

• Bash-Bish Falls State Park (MA):Head from the comely village ofSouth Egremont up into the forestedhills of the southwest corner of Mass-achusetts. The roads, which changefrom macadam to gravel to dirt andback, wind between crimson cloudsof sugar maples and white birchesfeather-stroked against banks of blackevergreens. The payoff is a three-stateview from a promontory above a

50-foot cascade notched into a bluff,with carpets of russet and goldstretching all the way to the HudsonRiver. See p. 331.

• The Litchfield Hills (CT): Route 7,running south to north through therugged northwest corner of Con-necticut, roughly along the course ofthe Housatonic River, explodes withcolor in the weeks before and afterColumbus Day. Leaves drift down tothe water and whirl down the foam-ing river. See “The Litchfield Hills”in chapter 9.

• I-91 (VT): An interstate? Don’t scoff(the traffic can be terrible on narrowstate roads). If you like your foliageviewing wholesale, cruise I-91 fromBrattleboro to Newport. You’ll beoverwhelmed with gorgeous terrain,

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from the gentle Connecticut RiverValley to the sloping hills of theNortheast Kingdom. See chapter 11.

• Route 100 (VT): Route 100 windsthe length of Vermont from Reads-boro to Newport. It’s the majornorth-south route through the centerof the Green Mountains, and it’s sur-prisingly undeveloped along most ofits length. You won’t have it to your-self along the southern stretches onautumn weekends, but as you headfarther north, you’ll leave the crowdsbehind. See chapter 11.

• Crawford Notch (NH): Route 302passes through this scenic valley,

where you can see the brilliant redmaples and yellow birches high onthe hillsides. In fall, Mount Washing-ton, in the background, is likely to bedusted with an early snow. See “TheWhite Mountains” in chapter 12.

• Camden (ME): The dazzling fall col-ors that cover the rolling hills arereflected in Penobscot Bay on the eastside, and in the lakes on the west.Ascend the peaks for views out to thecolor-splashed islands in the bay.Autumn usually comes a week or solater on the coast, so you can stretchout your viewing pleasure. See“Penobscot Bay” in chapter 13.

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3 The Best Ways to View Coastal Scenery• Strolling Around Rockport (MA):

The town surrounds the small harborand spreads out along the rugged,rocky coastline of Cape Ann. Fromthe end of Bearskin Neck, the view isspectacular—fishing and pleasureboats in one direction, roaring surf in the other. See “Cape Ann” in chap-ter 5.

• Getting Back to Nature on PlumIsland (MA): The Parker RiverNational Wildlife Refuge, in New-buryport, offers two varieties ofcoastal scenery: picturesque saltmarshes packed with birds and otheranimals, and gorgeous ocean beacheswhere the power of the Atlantic is evi-dent. See “Newburyport, Ipswich &Plum Island” in chapter 5.

• Biking or Driving the Outer Cape(MA): From Eastham through Well-fleet and Truro, all the way toProvincetown, Cape Cod’s outermosttowns offer dazzling ocean vistas anda number of exceptional bike paths,including the Province Lands, justoutside Provincetown, that are bor-dered by spectacular swooping dunes.See “The Outer Cape” in chapter 6.

• Heading “Up-Island” on Martha’sVineyard (MA): Many visitors neverventure beyond the port towns ofVineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, andEdgartown. Though each has itscharms, the scenery actually getsmore spectacular “up-island,” intowns like Chilmark, where you’llpass moorlike meadows and familyfarms surrounded by stone walls. Fol-low State Road and the scenicMoshup Trail to the westernmost tipof the island, where you’ll experiencethe dazzling colored cliffs of Aquin-nah and the quaint fishing port ofMenemsha. See “Martha’s Vineyard”in chapter 7.

• Cruising Newport’s Ocean Drive(RI): After a tour of the fabulouslyoverwrought “cottages” of the hyper-rich that are strung along BellevueAvenue, emerging onto the shorelineroad that dodges the spray of theboiling Atlantic is a cleansingreminder of the power of nature overfragile monuments to the conceits ofmen. To extend the experience, take a3.5-mile hike along the Cliff Walkthat skirts the edge of the bluff

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commanded by the largest mansions.See “Newport” in chapter 10.

• Sitting in a Rocking Chair (ME):The views are never better than whenyou’re caught unawares—such as sud-denly looking up from an engrossingbook on the front porch of an ocean-side inn. Throughout the Mainechapter, look for mention of innsright on the water, such as Edwards’Harborside Inn (p. 589), BeachHouse Inn (p. 598), Samoset Resort(p. 632), East Wind Inn (p. 626),and the Claremont (p. 654).

• Hiking Monhegan Island (ME):The village of Monhegan is clustered

around the harbor, but the rest of this700-acre island is all picturesquewildlands, with miles of trails cross-ing open meadows and windingalong rocky bluffs. See “Mid-CoastMaine” in chapter 13.

• Driving the Park Loop Road atAcadia National Park (ME): This isthe region’s premier ocean drive.You’ll start high along a ridge withviews of Frenchman Bay and the Por-cupine Islands, then dip down alongthe rocky shores to watch the surfcrash against the dark rocks. Plan todo this 20-mile loop at least twice toget the most out of it. See p. 641.

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4 The Best Places to Rediscover America’s Past• Paul Revere House (Boston, MA):

We often study the history of theAmerican Revolution through storiesof governments and institutions. At this little home in the North End, you’ll learn about a real person.The self-guided tour is particularlythought-provoking, allowing you tolinger on the artifacts that hold yourinterest. Revere had 16 children withtwo wives, supported them with histhriving silversmith’s trade—and putthe whole operation in jeopardy withhis role in the events that led to theRevolution. See p. 121.

• Old State House (Boston, MA): Builtin 1713, the once-towering Old StateHouse is dwarfed by modern sky-scrapers. It stands as a reminder ofBritish rule (the exterior features a lionand a unicorn) and its overthrow—the Declaration of Independence was readfrom the balcony, which overlooks atraffic island where a circle of bricksrepresents the site of the Boston Massacre. See p. 121.

• Faneuil Hall (Boston, MA): AlthoughFaneuil Hall is best known nowadaysas a shopping destination, if you head

upstairs, you’ll be transported back intime. In the second-floor auditorium,park rangers talk about the building’srole in the Revolution. Tune out thesound of sneakers squeaking across thefloor, and you can almost hear SamuelAdams (his statue is out front) exhort-ing the Sons of Liberty. See p. 114.

• “Old Ironsides” (Boston, MA): For-mally named USS Constitution, thefrigate was launched in 1797 andgained fame battling Barbary piratesand seeing action in the War of 1812.Last used in battle in 1815, it was peri-odically threatened with destructionuntil a complete renovation in the late1920s started its career as a floatingmonument. The staff includes sailorson active duty who wear 1812 dressuniforms. See p. 121.

• North Bridge (Concord, MA):British troops headed to Concordafter putting down the uprising inLexington, and the bridge (a replica)stands as a testament to the Minute-men who fought here. The ConcordRiver and its peaceful green banksgive no hint of the bloodshed thattook place. On the path in from

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Monument Street, placards and audiostations provide a fascinating narra-tive. See “Concord” in chapter 5.

• Plymouth Rock (Plymouth, MA):Okay, it’s a fraction of its original sizeand looks like something you mightfind in your garden. Nevertheless,Plymouth Rock makes a perfect start-ing point for exploration. Close by is Mayflower II, a replica of the alarmingly small original vessel. Thejuxtaposition reminds you of what adangerous undertaking the Pilgrims’voyage was. See “Plymouth” in chap-ter 5.

• Sandwich (MA): The oldest town onCape Cod, Sandwich was founded in1637. Glassmaking brought notorietyand prosperity to this picturesquetown in the 19th century. Visit theSandwich Glass Museum for thewhole story, or tour one of the town’sglassblowing studios. Don’t leavewithout visiting the 76-acre HeritageMuseums and Gardens, which has aworking carousel, a sparkling antique-car collection, and a wonderful collec-tion of Americana. See “The UpperCape” in chapter 6.

• Nantucket (MA): It looks like thewhalers just left, leaving behind theirgrand houses, cobbled streets, and agamut of enticing shops offering lux-ury goods from around the world.The Nantucket Historical Associa-tion owns more than a dozen proper-ties open for tours, and the WhalingMuseum is one of the most fascinat-ing sites in the region. Tourism maybe rampant, but not its tackier sideeffects, thanks to stringent preserva-tion measures. See “Nantucket” inchapter 7.

• Deerfield (MA): Arguably the best-preserved Colonial village in NewEngland, Deerfield has scores ofhouses dating back to the 17th and18th centuries. None of the clutter of

modernity has intruded here. Four-teen houses on the main avenue canbe visited through tours conductedby the organization known as His-toric Deerfield. See “The PioneerValley” in chapter 8.

• Newport (RI): A key port of the clip-per trade long before the British sur-rendered their colony, Newportretains abundant recollections of itsmaritime past. In addition to its greatharbor, clogged with cigarette boats,tugs, ferries, and majestic sloops, theCity by the Sea has kept three distinc-tive enclaves preserved: the watersidehomes of Colonial seamen, the hill-side Federal houses of port-boundmerchants, and the ostentatious man-sions of America’s post–Civil Warindustrial and financial grandees. See“Newport” in chapter 10.

• Plymouth (VT): President CalvinCoolidge was born in this highupland valley, and the state has done asuperb job preserving his hometownvillage. You’ll get a good sense of thepresident’s roots, but also gain agreater understanding of how a NewEngland village works. See p. 494.

• Shelburne Museum (Shelburne,VT): Think of this sprawling museumas New England’s attic. Located onthe shores of Lake Champlain, theShelburne features not only the usualexhibits of quilts and early glass, butalso whole buildings preserved likespecimens in formaldehyde. Look forthe lighthouse, the railroad station,and the stagecoach inn. This is one ofnorthern New England’s “don’t miss”destinations. See p. 525.

• Portsmouth (NH): Portsmouth is asalty coastal city that just happens toboast some of the most impressivehistoric homes in New England. Startat Strawbery Banke, a historic com-pound of 42 buildings dating from1695 to 1820. Then visit the many

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other grand homes in nearby neigh-borhoods, like the house John PaulJones occupied while building hiswarship during the Revolution. See“Portsmouth” in chapter 12.

• Victoria Mansion (Portland, ME):Donald Trump had nothing on theVictorians when it came to excess.

You’ll see Victorian decorative arts attheir zenith in this Italianate mansionbuilt during the Civil War years by a prosperous hotelier. It’s open to the public for tours in summer andalso puts on outstanding Christmas-season programs in December. See p. 606.

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5 The Best Activities for Families• Exploring the Museum of Fine Arts

(Boston, MA): Parents hear “magnif-icent Egyptian collections.” Kidsthink: “Mummies!” Even the mosthyper youngster manages to take itdown a notch in these quiet, refinedsurroundings, and the collections atthe MFA simultaneously tickle visi-tors’ brains. See p. 117.

• Experimenting in the Museum ofScience (Boston, MA): Built arounddemonstrations and interactive displays that never feel like home-work, this museum is wildly popularwith kids—and adults. Explore theexhibits, then take in a show at theplanetarium or the Mugar OmniTheater. Before you know it, every-one will have learned something,painlessly. See p. 117.

• Catching a Free Friday Flick at theHatch Shell (Boston, MA): Betterknown for the Boston Pops’s Fourthof July concert, the Esplanade is alsofamous for family films (like Shrek orPocahontas) shown on Friday nightsin summer. The lawn in front of theHatch Shell turns into a giant, carlessdrive-in as hundreds of people picnicand wait for dark. See p. 137.

• Visiting the Heritage Museums andGardens (Cape Cod, MA): This sitewith museum buildings spread over76 acres will delight both childrenand adults. Kids will especially lovethe gleaming antique cars, the collec-tions of soldiers and Native Americanclothing, and the 1912 carousel that

offers unlimited rides. Outdoor con-certs free with admission take placemost Sunday afternoons in season.See p. 197.

• Whale-Watching off Provincetown(Cape Cod, MA): Boats leaveMacMillan Wharf for the 8-milejourney to Stellwagen Bank NationalMarine Sanctuary, a rich feedingground for several types of whales.Nothing can prepare you for thethrill of spotting these magnificentcreatures feeding, breaching, andeven flipper slapping. See p. 250.

• Deep-Sea Fishing: Charter fishingboats these days usually have high-tech fish-finding gear—imagine howyour kids will react to reeling in onebig bluefish after another. The topspots to mount such an expeditionare Barnstable Harbor or Rock Har-bor in Orleans, on Cape Cod; PointJudith, at the southern tip of RhodeIsland; and the Maine coast. Seechapters 6, 10, and 13, respectively.

• Riding the Flying Horses Carouselin Oak Bluffs (Martha’s Vineyard,MA): Some say this is the oldestcarousel in the country, but your kidsmight not notice the genuine horse-hair, sculptural details, or glass eyes.They’ll be too busy trying to grab thebrass ring to win a free ride. After yourride, stroll around the town of OakBluffs. Children will be enchantedwith the “gingerbread” houses, a carry-over from the 19th-century revivalistmovement. See p. 275.

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• Biking Nantucket (MA): Short, flattrails crisscross the island, and everyone leads to a beach. The shortestrides lead to Children’s Beach, with itsown playground, and Jetties Beach,with a skate park and watersportsequipment for rent; older kids will beable to make the few miles to Surfsideand Madaket. See “Nantucket” inchapter 7.

• Learning to Ski at Jiminy Peak(MA): More than 70% of JiminyPeak’s trails are geared toward begin-ners and intermediates, making it oneof the premier places to learn to ski inthe East. The mountain is located inthe heart of the Berkshires, nearMount Greylock. See p. 348.

• Visiting Mystic Seaport and MysticAquarium (CT): The double-downwinner in the family-fun sweepstakeshas to be this combination: perform-ing dolphins and whales, full-riggedtall ships, penguins and sharks, andriver rides on a perky little 1906motor launch. These are the kinds ofG-rated attractions that have no agebarriers. See p. 402.

• Visting the Ben & Jerry Ice CreamFactory (Waterbury, VT): Kids andice cream are a great combination,and the 30-minute tours that leaveevery 10 minutes in summer won’ttax anybody’s patience. Browse thesmall ice-cream museum, enjoy theplayground and cow-viewing area,

and make sure to save room for thefree samples. See p. 511.

• Exploring the Shelburne Museum(Shelburne, VT): This museum con-tains one of the nation’s most singularcollections of American decorative,folk, and fine art. Kid favoritesinclude the Circus Building with a35,000 piece three-ring miniaturecircus; an operating vintage carousel;a collection of dolls and dollhouses;and automata, large (sometimes threefeet tall), often comical wind-up toys.See p. 525.

• Riding the Mount Washington CogRailway (Crawford Notch, NH): It’sfun! It’s terrifying! It’s a great glimpseinto history. Kids love this ratchetyclimb to the top of New England’shighest peak aboard trains that werespecially designed to scale the moun-tain in 1869. As a technological mar-vel, the railroad attracted tourists bythe thousands a century ago. Theystill come to marvel at the sheeraudacity of it all. See p. 577.

• Exploring Monhegan Island (ME):Kids from 8 to 12 especially enjoyovernight excursions to MonheganIsland. The mail boat from PortClyde is rustic and intriguing, andthe hotels are an adventure. Leave atleast an afternoon to sit atop thehigh, rocky bluffs scouting the glimmering ocean for whales. See“Mid-Coast Maine” in chapter 13.

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6 The Best Country Inns• Hawthorne Inn (Concord, MA;

& 978/369-5610): Everythinghere—the 1870 building, the gardensetting a stone’s throw from the his-toric attractions, the antiques, theeclectic decorations, the accommo-dating innkeepers—is top of the line.See p. 156.

• Longfellow’s Wayside Inn (Sudbury,MA; & 800/339-1776): A gorgeous

inn, an unusual setting, excellentfood, the imprimatur of a distin-guished New England author, nearly300 years of history, and the school-house the little lamb (supposedly)followed Mary to. What’s not to like?See p. 156.

• Captain’s House Inn (Chatham,Cape Cod, MA; & 800/315-0728):An elegant country inn dripping with

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good taste, this is among the bestsmall inns in the region. Most roomshave fireplaces, elegant paneling, andantiques; they’re sumptuous yet cozy.This could be the ultimate spot toenjoy Chatham’s Christmas Stroll fes-tivities. See p. 231.

• Charlotte Inn (Edgartown, Martha’sVineyard, MA; & 508/627-4751):Edgartown tends to be the most for-mal enclave on Martha’s Vineyard,and this compound of exquisitebuildings is by far the fanciest addressin town. The rooms are distinctivelydecorated: One boasts a baby grand,another its own thematic dressingroom. The conservatory restaurant,L’étoile, is among the finest you’llfind this side of France. See p. 277.

• The Porches (North Adams, MA; & 413/664-0400): It may bestretching the definition of the“country inn” category, but this is toomuch fun to ignore. It was puttogether with six 19th-century work-men’s houses lined up opposite theMassachusetts Museum of Contem-porary Art, a new veranda runningacross their length. The wit of thedesigners is evident in the use ofpaint-by-the-numbers pictures andsublimely kitschy accessories, but laptop rentals, DVD players, andInternet access ensure no 21st-century deprivation. See p. 354.

• Mayflower Inn (Washington, CT; & 860/868-9466): Not a tough callat all for this part of the region:Immaculate in taste and execution,the Mayflower is as close to perfec-tion as any such enterprise is likely tobe (points off for whiffs of excess pre-tension). A genuine Joshua Reynoldshangs in the hall. See p. 371.

• Griswold Inn (Essex, CT; & 860/767-1776): “The Griz” has beenaccommodating sailors and travelers aslong as any inn in the country, give or

take a decade. In all that time, it hasbeen a part of life and commerce inthe lower Connecticut River Valley,always ready with a mug of suds, ahaunch of beef, and a roaring fire. Thewalls are layered with nautical paint-ings and memorabilia, and there’smusic every night in the schoolhouse-turned-tavern. See p. 394.

• The Equinox (Manchester Village,VT; & 800/362-4747): This is south-ern Vermont’s grand resort, withnearly 200 rooms in a white-clapboardcompound that seems to go on for-ever. The rooms are pleasant enough,but the real draws are the grounds andthe resort’s varied activities—it’s set on2,300 acres with pools, tennis courts,an 18-hole golf course, and even itsown mountainside. Tried everythingon vacation? How about falconryclasses or backcountry driving at theRange Rover school? See p. 470.

• Windham Hill Inn (West Townshend, VT; & 800/944-4080):Welcome amenities such as air-conditioning in the rooms and a con-ference room in the barn have beenadded, while preserving the charm ofthis 1823 farmstead. It’s at the end ofa remote dirt road in a high uplandvalley, and guests are welcome toexplore 160 private acres on a net-work of walking trails. See p. 486.

• Jackson House Inn (Woodstock,VT; & 800/448-1890): Constantimprovements and the meticulousattention to service have made this alongtime favorite for visitors toWoodstock. The meals are stunning,the guest rooms the very picture ofantique elegance. The only downside?It fronts a sometimes noisy road. Seep. 488.

• Twin Farms (Barnard, VT; & 800/894-6327): Just north of Woodstockmay be the most elegant inn in New England. Its rates are a tad

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breathtaking, but guests are certainlypampered here. Novelist SinclairLewis once lived on this 300-acrefarm, and today it’s an aestheticretreat that offers serenity and excep-tional food. See p. 490.

• The Pitcher Inn (Warren, VT; & 802/496-6350): Even though thisplace was built in 1997, it’s possessedof the graciousness of a longtime,well-worn inn. It combines tradi-tional New England form and scalewith modern and luxe touches, plus agood dollop of whimsy. See p. 507.

• Basin Harbor Club (Vergennes, VT;& 800/622-4000): Established in1886, this lakeside resort has the sortof patina that only comes with age.It’s a classic old-fashioned familyresort, with golf, boating on LakeChamplain, jackets-required dining,evening lectures on the arts, and evena private airstrip. Bring books andboard games, and re-learn what sum-mer’s all about. See p. 526.

• Balsams Grand Resort Hotel(Dixville Notch, NH; & 800/255-0600): The designation “country

inn” is only half correct. You’ve gotplenty of country—it’s set on 15,000acres in northern New Hampshire.But this resort is more castle thaninn. The Balsams has been offeringsuperb hospitality and gracious com-fort since 1866. It has two golfcourses, miles of hiking trails, and, inwinter, its own downhill and cross-country ski areas. See p. 583.

• White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport,ME; & 207/967-2321): Many ofthe White Barn’s staff hail fromEurope, and guests are treated with aContinental graciousness that’s hardto match. Rooms, suites, and cottageshere are all a delight, and the meals(served in the barn) are among thebest in Maine. See p. 600.

• Claremont (Southwest Harbor, ME;& 800/244-5036): The 1884 Clare-mont is a Maine classic. This water-side lodge has everything a Victorianresort should, including sparely deco-rated rooms, creaky floorboards inthe halls, great views of water andmountains, and a perfect croquetpitch. See p. 654.

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7 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Newbury Guest House (Boston, MA;

& 800/437-7668) and HarborsideInn (Boston, MA; & 888/723-7565): These sister properties wouldbe good deals even if they weren’t ideally located—the former in theBack Bay, the latter downtown. Ratesat the Guest House even includebreakfast. See p. 97 and p. 91.

• Pilgrim Sands Motel (Plymouth,MA; & 800/729-7263): The oceanviews and two pools (indoor and outdoor) make this a great deal,whether you’re immersing yourself inPilgrim lore or passing through onthe way from Boston to Cape Cod.See p. 191.

• White Horse Inn (Provincetown,Cape Cod, MA; & 508/487-1790):The very embodiment of Province-town funkiness, this inn has hostedsuch celebrities as filmmaker JohnWaters and poet laureate Robert Pinsky. Rooms are short on amenitiesbut long on artiness. The apartments,cobbled together by innkeeper FrankSchaefer, are highly original and a lotof fun. See p. 255.

• Nauset House Inn (East Orleans,Cape Cod, MA; & 800/771-5508):This romantic 1810 farmhouse is likea sepia-toned vision of old Cape Cod.Recline in a wicker divan surroundedby fragrant flowers while the wind

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whistles outside. Better yet, stroll toNauset Beach and take a quiet walkas the sun sets. Your genial hosts alsoprepare one of the finest breakfasts intown. See p. 237.

• Hopkins Inn (New Preston, CT; & 860/868-7295): This yellow farm-house bestows the top view of LakeWaramaug, at its best on soft summerdays when robust Alpine dishes canbe taken out on the terrace. Thesomewhat spartan rooms don’t temptwinding-down guests with eitherphones or TVs. See p. 372.

• Bee and Thistle Inn (Old Lyme, CT;& 800/622-4946): Known fordecades for its cuisine, this 1756house also has a detached cottage and11 pretty guest rooms, two of whichhave fireplaces. Easily one of the area’smost romantic weekend getaways, ithas musicians underscoring themood in the dining rooms on week-ends. See p. 393.

• Inn at the Mad River Barn (Waits-field, VT; & 800/631-0466): It takesa few minutes to adapt to the spartanrooms and no-frills accommodations

here. But you’ll soon discover that thereal action takes place in the livingroom and dining room, where skiersrelax and chat after a day on theslopes, and share heaping helpings atmealtime. See p. 507.

• Philbrook Farm Inn (Shelburne,NH; & 603/466-3831): Come hereif you’re looking for a complete get-away. The inn has been taking in trav-elers since the 1850s, and the ownersknow how to do it right. The farm-house sits on 1,000 acres between theMahoosuc Mountains and theAndroscoggin River, and guests canhike or relax with equal aplomb. Seep. 583.

• Franciscan Guest House (Kenne-bunk, ME; & 207/967-4865): Nodaily maid service, cheap paneling onthe walls, and industrial carpeting.What’s to like? Plenty, including thelocation (on the lush riverside groundsof a monastery), price (doubles from$65), and a great Lithuanian-stylebreakfast spread in the morning. Youcan bike to the beach or walk to DockSquare in Kennebunkport. See p. 600.

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8 The Best Restaurants• Legal Sea Foods (Boston, MA, and

other locations; & 617/266-6800):Newcomers ask where to go for freshseafood, then react suspiciously whenI recommend a world-famous restau-rant instead of a local secret. No, it’sno secret—but it’s a wildly successfulchain for a reason. See p. 110.

• L’Espalier (Boston, MA; & 617/262-3023): The city’s foremost spe-cial-occasion restaurant expertlyblends superb ingredients (from localproduce to the finest caviar), classicpreparations, a magnificent wine list,exacting service, and a gorgeous setting to create an unforgettableexperience. See p. 109.

• 902 Main (South Yarmouth, CapeCod, MA; & 508/398-9902): Withfabulous service, an elegant atmos-phere, and to-die-for food, this is theplace to go for fine dining in the Mid-Cape. Entrees like filet mignonwith portobello mushrooms, rack oflamb with truffle mashed potatoes,and haddock with organic beets rangewill set you swooning. See p. 217.

• Atria (Edgartown, Martha’s Vine-yard, MA; & 508/627-5840): Thisfine-dining restaurant set in an 18th-century sea captain’s home gets ravereviews for its gourmet cuisine and itshigh-quality service. This is one ofthose places you can just relax and

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have a fantastic and memorable meal,because the staff knows exactly whatthey are doing. See p. 282.

• Centre Street Bistro (Nantucket,MA; & 508/228-8470): Two of thebest chefs on the island, Ruth andTim Pitts combine their talents atthis cozy little hole-in-the-wallrestaurant. The best part is that thisplace features wonderful, creative cui-sine at fairly reasonable prices, com-pared to other island fine-diningrestaurants. See p. 305.

• Bistro Zinc (Lenox, MA; & 413/637-8800): Setting the Berkshiresculinary standard ever since its open-ing a few years back, this stylish con-temporary bistro impresses on everyrepeat visit. It looks great, for starters,with its zinc bar, buffed woods, andflowers everywhere. Most everythingthat arrives on a plate is supremelysatisfying, joining familiarity with theFrench repertoire with cunning twistsin execution. There are 24 wines bythe glass and an irresistible five-cheese tasting. See p. 345.

• Union League Café (New Haven,CT; & 203/562-4299): This augustsetting of arched windows and highceilings is more than a century old andwas long the sanctuary of an exclusiveclub. It still looks good, but the tonehas been lightened into an approxima-tion of a Lyonnaise brasserie. Themenu observes the southern Frenchtastes for curry, olive oil, pastas, lamb,and shellfish. See p. 383.

• Scales & Shells (Newport, RI; & 401/846-3474): Ye who turnaside all ostentation, get yourselveshence. There’s nary a frill nor affecta-tion anywhere near this place, andbecause the wide-open kitchen isright at the entrance, there are nosecrets, either. What we have here aremarine critters mere hours from thedepths, prepared and presented free

of any but the slightest artifice. Thismight well be the purest seafood jointon the southern New England coast.See p. 447.

• Chantecleer (Manchester Center,VT; & 802/362-1616): Swiss chefMichel Baumann has been turningout dazzling dinners here since 1981,and the kitchen hasn’t gotten stale inthe least. The dining room in an oldbarn is magical, the staff helpful andfriendly. It’s a great spot for thosewho demand top-notch Continentalfare but don’t like the fuss of a fancyrestaurant. See p. 473.

• T. J. Buckley’s (Brattleboro, VT; & 802/257-4922): This tiny dineron a dark side street serves up outsizetastes prepared by talented chefMichael Fuller. Forget about stewed-too-long diner fare; get in your mindbig tastes blossoming from the fresh-est of ingredients prepared just right.See p. 483.

• Jackson House Inn (Woodstock,VT; & 800/448-1890): Situated in amodern addition to an upscale coun-try inn, the Jackson House Inn servesmeals that are ingeniously conceived,deftly prepared, and artfully arranged.The three-course meals cost around$55, and offer excellent value at that.See p. 491.

• Hemingway’s (Killington, VT; & 802/422-3886): Killington seemsan unlikely place for a serious culinaryadventure, yet Hemingway’s will meetthe loftiest expectations. The menuchanges frequently to ensure only thefreshest of ingredients. If it’s available,be sure to order the wild mushroomand truffle soup. See p. 497.

• White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport,ME; & 207/967-2321): The setting,in an ancient, rustic barn, is magical.The tables are set with floor-lengthtablecloths, and the chairs featureimported Italian upholstery. The

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food? To die for. Start with lobsterspring rolls, then enjoy entrees suchas roasted duck with juniper sauce orMaine lobster over fettuccine with acognac coral butter sauce. See p. 600.

• Fore Street (Portland, ME; & 207/775-2717): Fore Street is one of New England’s most celebrated

restaurants—the place was listed asone of Gourmet magazine’s 100 bestrestaurants in 2001, and the chef hasbeen getting lots of press elsewhere aswell. His secret? Simplicity, and lotsof it. Some of the most memorablemeals are prepared over an apple-wood grill. See p. 609.

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9 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Durgin-Park (Boston, MA; & 617/

227-2038): A meal at this landmarkrestaurant might start with a waitressdropping a handful of cutlery in frontof you and saying, “Here, give theseout.” The surly service usually seemsto be an act, but it’s so much a part ofthe experience that some people aredisappointed when the waitresses arenice (as they often are). In any case,it’s worked since 1827. See p. 107.

• Woodman’s of Essex (Essex, MA; & 800/649-1773): This busy NorthShore institution is not for the faintof heart—or the hard of artery, unlessyou like eating corn and steamerswhile everyone around you is gob-bling fried clams and onion rings.The food at this glorified clam shackis fresh and delicious, and a look atthe organized pandemonium behindthe counter is worth the (reasonable)price. See p. 170.

• Black Eyed Susan’s (Nantucket, MA;& 508/325-0308): This is extremelyexciting food in a funky bistro atmos-phere. The place is small, popularwith locals, and packed. Sitting at thediner counter and watching the chefin action is a show in itself. No creditcards, no reservations, and no liquorlicense are all an inconvenience, but if you can get past all that, you’re infor a top-notch dining experience.See p. 305.

• Louis’ Lunch—The Very First(Well, Probably) Burgers (New

Haven, CT; & 203/562-5507): Nota lot of serious history has happenedin New Haven, but boosters claim itwas here that hamburgers wereinvented in 1900. This little lunch-eonette lives on, moved from its orig-inal site in order to save it. Thepatties are freshly ground daily, thrustinto vertical grills, and served onwhite toast. Garnishes are tomato,onion, and cheese. No ketchup andno fries, so don’t even ask. See p. 382.

• Wooster Street Pizza (New Haven,CT): New Haven’s claim to America’sfirst pizza is a whole lot shakier, but ithas few equals as purveyor of theultra-thin, charred variety of whatthey still call “apizza” in these parts,pronounced “ah-peetz.” Old-timerFrank Pepe’s, 157 Wooster St. (& 203/865-5762), is usually cededtop rank among the local parlors, butit is joined by such contenders asSally’s, 237 Wooster St. (& 203/624-5271) and the upstart brewpubBrü Rm, 254 Crown St. (& 203/495-1111). See p. 382 and 384.

• Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough(Noank, CT; & 860/536-7719):Places like this frill-free shack aboundalong more northerly reaches of theNew England coast, but here’s a littlebit o’ Maine a Sunday drive fromManhattan. Shore dinners rule, soroll up sleeves, tie on napkins andfeedbags, dive into bowls of chowderand platters of boiled shrimp and

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steamed mussels, and dunk hot lob-ster chunks in pots of drawn butter.See p. 405.

• Johnnycakes and Stuffies (RI):Sooner or later, most worthy regionalfood faves become known to thewider world (witness Buffalo wings).The Ocean State still clutches a cou-ple of taste treats within its borders.“Johnnycakes” are flapjacks madewith cornmeal, which come small andplump or wide and lacy, dependingupon family tradition. “Stuffies” arethe baby-fist-size quahog (KWAH-ogor KOE-hog) clams barely knownelsewhere in New England. The fleshis chopped up, combined withminced bell peppers and breadcrumbs, and packed back into bothhalves of the shell. See chapter 10.

• Blue Benn Diner (Bennington, VT;& 802/442-5140): This 1945 SilkCity diner has a barrel ceiling, acresof stainless steel, and a vast menu.Don’t overlook specials scrawled onpaper and taped all over the walls.And leave room for a slice of deliciouspie, such as blackberry, pumpkin, orchocolate cream. See p. 467.

• Al’s (South Burlington, VT; & 802/862-9203): This is where Ben andJerry go to eat french fries—as doesevery other potato addict in the state.See p. 528.

• Lou’s (Hanover, NH; & 603/643-3321): Huge crowds flock to Lou’s,just down the block from the Dart-mouth campus, for breakfast onweekends. Fortunately, breakfast isserved all day here, and the sand-wiches on fresh-baked bread are hugeand delicious. See p. 555.

• Becky’s (Portland, ME; & 207/773-7070): Five different kinds of homefries on the menu? It’s breakfast nir-vana at this local institution on theworking waterfront. It’s a favoredhangout of fishermen, high-schoolkids, businessmen, and just abouteveryone else. See p. 611.

• Silly’s (Portland, ME; & 207/772-0360): Hectic and fun, this tiny,informal, kitschy restaurant serves updelicious finger food, like pita wraps,hamburgers, and pizza. The milk-shakes alone are worth the detour.See p. 612.

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10 The Best of the Performing Arts• Symphony Hall (Boston, MA;

& 617/266-1492): Home to theBoston Symphony Orchestra, theBoston Pops, and other local and vis-iting groups and performers, this is aperfect (acoustically and otherwise)destination for classical music. See p.137.

• Hatch Shell (Boston, MA; & 617/626-1250): This amphitheater onthe Charles River Esplanade playshost to free music, dance perform-ances, and films almost every night insummer. Around the Fourth of July,the Boston Pops provide the enter-tainment. Bring a blanket to sit on.See p. 137.

• Boston’s Theater District: The area’sperformance spaces—which includethe recently reopened Opera House—are in the midst of a nearly unprece-dented boom, and this is the epicenter.Previews and touring companies ofBroadway hits, local music and dancetroupes, and other productions ofevery description make this part oftown hop every night. See p. 138.

• The Nutcracker (Boston, MA; & 800/447-7400 for tickets): NewEngland’s premier family-orientedholiday event is Boston Ballet’sextravaganza. When the Christmastree grows through the floor, evenfidgety preadolescents forget that

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they think they’re too cool to be here.See p. 137.

• The Comedy Connection atFaneuil Hall (Boston, MA; & 617/248-9700): Even in the Athens ofAmerica, it’s not all high culture. Thebiggest national names and the fun-niest local comics take the stage atthis hot spot. See p. 139.

• The Berkshire Theatre Festival(Stockbridge, MA; & 413/298-5576): An 1887 “casino” and con-verted barn mount both new and clas-sic plays from June to late August inone of the prettiest towns in the Berk-shires. Name artists on the order ofJoanne Woodward and Dianne Wiestare often listed as actors and directorsin the annual playbill. See p. 336.

• The Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival(Becket, MA; & 413/243-0745):Celebrated dancer/choreographerMartha Graham made this her sum-mertime performance space fordecades. Guest troupes are among theworld’s best, often including DanceTheatre of Harlem, the Merce Cun-ningham Dance Company, and thePaul Taylor Company, supplementedby repertory companies working with jazz, flamenco, or world music.See p. 338.

• Tanglewood Music Festival (Lenox,MA; & 617/266-1492 in Boston,413/637-5165 in Lenox): By far themost dominating presence on NewEngland’s summer cultural front, themusic festival that takes place on thismagnificent Berkshires estate is itselfin thrall to the Boston Symphony

Orchestra (BSO). While the BSOreigns, room is made for such guestsoloists as Jessye Norman and ItzhakPerlman as well as practitioners ofother forms, from jazz (DaveBrubeck) to folk (James Taylor) andthe Boston Pops. See p. 340.

• Williamstown Theatre Festival(Williamstown, MA; & 413/597-3400): Classic, new, and avant-gardeplays are all presented during theJune-through-August season at thisvenerable festival. There are twostages, one for works by establishedplaywrights, the smaller second venuefor less mainstream or experimentalplays. There is usually a Broadwayheadliner on hand; Frank Langella hasbeen a frequent presence. See p. 353.

• Norfolk Chamber Music Festival(Norfolk, CT; & 860/542-3000): Acentury-old “Music Shed” on theEllen Battell Stoeckel Estate in thisLitchfield Hills town shelters suchimportant chamber performancegroups as the Tokyo String Quartetand the Vermeer Quartet. Young pro-fessional musicians perform morningrecitals. See p. 377.

• Summer in Newport (RI): FromMemorial Day to Labor Day, only ascheduling misfortune will deny visi-tors the experience of an outdoormusical event. In calendar order, thehighlights (well short of all-inclusive)are the July Newport Music Festival,the August Ben & Jerry’s Folk Festivaland JVC Jazz Festival, and the Water-front Irish Festival in September. Seep. 432.

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11 The Best Destinations for Antiques Hounds• Charles Street (Boston, MA): Bea-

con Hill is one of the city’s oldestneighborhoods, and at the foot of thehill is a thoroughfare that’s equallysteeped in history. Hundreds of years’worth of furniture, collectibles, and

accessories jam the shops along its 5blocks. See p. 135.

• Main Street, Essex (MA): The treas-ures on display in this North Shoretown run the gamut, from one stepabove yard sales to one step below

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nationally televised auctions. FollowRoute 133 west of Route 128through downtown and north almostall the way to the Ipswich border. See“Cape Ann” in chapter 5.

• Route 6A: The Old King’s Highway(Cape Cod, MA): Antiques buffs, aswell as architecture and country-roadconnoisseurs, will have a field dayalong scenic Route 6A. Designated aRegional Historic District, this for-mer stagecoach route winds througha half-dozen charming villages and islined with scores of antiques shops.The largest concentration is in Brew-ster, but you’ll find good pickings allalong this meandering road, fromSandwich to Orleans. See chapter 6.

• Brimfield Antique and CollectibleShows (Brimfield, MA): This other-wise undistinguished town west ofSturbridge erupts with three monstershows every summer, in mid-May,mid-July, and early September.Upward of 6,000 dealers set uptented and tabletop shops in fieldsaround town. Call & 800/628-8379for details, and book room reserva-tions far in advance. See p. 312.

• Sheffield (MA): This southernmosttown in the Berkshires is home to atleast three dozen dealers in col-lectibles, Americana, military memo-rabilia, English furniture of theGeorgian period, silverware, andweather vanes . . . even antique bird-houses. Most of them are strungalong Route 7, with a worthwhile

detour west along Route 23 in SouthEgremont. See p. 330.

• Woodbury (CT): More than 30dealers along Main Street offer adiversity of precious treasures, near-antiques, and simply funky old stuff.American and European furnitureand other pieces are most evident,but there are forays into crafts andassorted whimsies as well. Pick up thedirectory of the Woodbury AntiquesDealers Association, available in mostshops. See p. 368.

• Newfane and Townshend (VT): Ahandful of delightful antiques shopsare hidden in and around these pic-ture-perfect towns. But the real drawis the Sunday flea market, held justoff Route 30 north of Newfane,where you never know what mightturn up. See p. 483.

• Portsmouth (NH): Picturesquedowntown Portsmouth is home to ahalf-dozen or so antiques stores andsome fine used-book shops. For moremeaty browsing, head about 25 milesnorthwest on Route 4 to Northwood,where a dozen good-size shops flankthe highway. See “Portsmouth” inchapter 12.

• Route 1, Kittery to Scarborough(ME): Antiques scavengers delight inthis 37-mile stretch of less-than-scenicRoute 1. Antiques minimalls and high-class junk shops alike are scattered allalong the route, though there’s no cen-tral antiques zone. See “The SouthernMaine Coast” in chapter 13.

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