This edition written and researched by

Mariella Krause,Celeste Brash, Korina Miller,

Brendan Sainsbury

AMAZING ROAD TRIPS33

BEST TRIPS

THE PACIFICNORTHWEST’S

01-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 101-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 1 21/09/2012 12:08:34 PM21/09/2012 12:08:34 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

MAP LEGENDMAP LEGEND

SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOKSYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK

% Telephone Number

h Opening Hours

p Parking

n Nonsmoking

a Air-Conditioning

i Internet Access

W Wi-Fi Access

v Vegetarian Selection

s Swimming Pool

E English-Language Menu

c Family-Friendly

# Pet-Friendly

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

5 Eating

Family

History & Culture

Food & Drink

Outdoors

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

PLAN YOUR TRIPPLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to the Pacifi c Northwest ..................... 7

Classic Trips .................................... 8

The Pacifi c Northwest’s Highlights ........................................12

If You Like ...................................... 22

Need to Know ..................................24

City Guide ....................................... 26

ON THE ROADON THE ROAD

WASHINGTONTRIPS................................ 31

11 Mountains to Sound Greenway ....1–2 Days 35

22 Olympic Peninsula Loop ............................4 Days 45

33 Graveyard of the Pacifi c Tour ................2 Days 53

44 San Juan Islands Scenic Byway ............3 Days 61

55 Chuckanut Drive & Whidbey Island...1–2 Days 69

66 Cascade Drive....................... 4–5 Days 77

77 Mt Rainier Scenic Byways ..... 2–3 Days 87

88 Mt St Helens Volcano Trail ..............3 Days 97

Walk Track/Path

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

UndergroundTrain Station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/Funicular

Transport

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

2

#9

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Boundaries

Population

Routes Trips

Parking

1

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road44 State Hwy

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

BeachCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

US Interstate Hwy US National Hwy

ReservationUrban Area

Hydrography

Areas

Highway Route Markers

[Ù97

VUÓ5

þÈ16 Trans-Canada Hwy

01-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 201-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 2 21/09/2012 12:08:39 PM21/09/2012 12:08:39 PM

CONTENTS

99 Washington Wine Tour ................. 3 Days 105

aa Mt Baker & Lummi Island ........ 1–2 Days 113

bb International Selkirk Loop ............. 3 Days 121

cc On the Trail of Lewis & Clark.......3–4 Days 129

OREGON TRIPS.............................. 145

dd Highway 101 Oregon Coast ........... 7 Days 149

ee Three Capes Loop .......................... 2 Days 163

ff Willamette Valley Wine Tour ................. 2 Days 171

gg Columbia River Gorge & Mt Hood ..... 3 Days 179

hh Journey Through Time Scenic Byway ...3 Days 189

ii Blue Mountains Loop .......................... 3 Days 197

jj Hells Canyon Scenic Byway .......... 4 Days 205

kk To Bend & Back .......................... 5 Days 213

ll Oregon Cascades Scenic Byways ........ 4 Days 221

BritishColumbia

p261

Washingtonp31

Oregonp145

3

01-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 301-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 3 21/09/2012 12:08:39 PM21/09/2012 12:08:39 PM

Contents cont.

mm Essential I-5 ......................... 1–2 Days 231

nn Crater Lake Circuit ................... 1–3 days 239

oo Caves of Highway 199 .............2 days 247

BRITISH COLUMBIATRIPS.............................. 261

pp Vancouver & the Fraser Valley ..... 2 Days 265

qq Sea to Sky Highway ................ 1–2 Days 273

rr A Strait Hop ........................2–3 Days 283

ss Southern Vancouver Island Tour ...........4–5 Days 293

tt Vancouver Island’s Remote North .......2–3 Days 301

uu Okanagan Valley Wine Tour ................. 2 Days 309

vv Haida Gwaii Adventure ................. 2 Days 319

ww Up the Inside Passage .................... 4 Days 327

xx Circling the Rockies ..................... 3 Days 337

THE PACIFIC THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST’S NORTHWEST’S DRIVING DRIVING GUIDEGUIDE ................350

4

01-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 401-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 4 21/09/2012 12:08:40 PM21/09/2012 12:08:40 PM

down from the Juneau

Ice eld and is one of the

few glaciers in Southeast

you can drive up to. The

visitor’s center o ers a

movie about the glacier,

plus hiking trails and a

salmon-viewing platform.

4 p 335

The Drive » The route

continues north, hugging the

coastline into the Lynn Canal.

66 Lynn Canal From Juneau, the ferry

travels up the Lynn Canal,

North America’s longest

(90 miles/145km) and

deepest (2000ft) fjord.

Glaciers and waterfalls

make the canal a visual

feast. It was rst mapped

in 1794 and was later

a major route to the

boomtown of Skagway

during the gold rush. This

was also the scene of one

of the worst maritime

disasters in the Paci c

Northwest: in 1918 a

passenger ship grounded

on a reef and sunk along

with all of its 343 crew

and passengers. Because of its high use,

lighthouses were once

scattered along the inlet;

still standing are the

octagonal Eldred Rock

Light and the church-like

Sentinel Island Light. The

canal is now used less

for freight and more by

ferries, cruise lines and

humpback whales.

The Drive » The trip north

from Juneau via the Lynn Canal

to Haines takes about 4½ hours.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

CA

RL &

AN

N P

UR

CE

LL /

CO

RB

IS ©

AL

AS

KA

ST

OC

K /

AL

AM

Y ©

AL

AS

KA

ST

OC

K ©

333

WHY THIS IS A CLASSIC TRIPKORINA MILLER,

AUTHOR

As the ferry enters the Inside

Passage, you feel an undeniable

spark of excitement. It’s like

following in the wake of the rst

European explorers. You appreciate

the remoteness of it all. Catching a

glimpse of a bear or a wolf on the

shoreline, watching the bald eagles

swoop overhead and stopping o

at communities only accessible

by water – quite quickly I realized

this was no ordinary trip. The word

‘remarkable’ came to mind.

Top: Brown bear, Chilkoot River, Haines

Left: Mendenhall Glacier

Right: Petroglyph Beach, Wrangell

44

4

444 4444

44444

444

44

44 4

#

#

#

##

#

# #

#

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

]]

]

]

]

]

]

]

^

\

\

\\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

R R

R

R

R

IDAHO

OREGON

CALIFORNIA

Blue M

ountains

Cascad

eRan

ge

Cape Disappointment

CapeLookout

Mt St Helens(8363ft)

Mt Adams(12,276ft)

Mt Hood(11,240ft)

Mt Jefferson(10,495ft)

Mt Bachelor(9065ft)

Klam

ath River

Desch

utesRiver

Crooked River

JohnDay

River

UmpquaRi ver

Rogue River

Willam

etteRiver

Brookings

John Day

Arlington

Port Orford

Burns

HoodRiver

Tillamook

Madras

Sisters

La Pine

Ashland

Bend

Toppenish

PendletonTheDalles

Newberg

Newport

CoosBay

Roseburg

GrantsPass

KlamathFalls

Astoria

Florence

Crescent City

KennewickWallaWalla

Vancouver

Portland

Albany

Eugene

Medford

Longview

Salem

Nehalem

LakeWallula

WaldoLake

CraterLake

UpperKlamathLake

LakeChinook

ff

Columbia

River

P A C I F I CO C E A N

Oregon CavesNationalMonument

Crater LakeNational Park

Mt St HelensNational Volcanic

Monument

Newberry NationalVolcanic Monument

Oregon DunesNational

Recreation Area

StrawberryMountainWildernessThree

SistersWilderness

#e0 100 km0 50 miles

4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

44444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

444444444444444444444444444

4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

4444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 44444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

444

4444

444

4444

444444

44

4444

4444 44444 44 444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

44444444444444444444444444444 444444444444444444444444444444444 4444444444444444444444444

444

44

4444444

4444

44 44444 44 444 44 44 4444 44444 444 4444 44444 4444444444 44 44444 4444 4444 44 4444 4444444444 444 44444444 44 4444444 44 444 444 44444444 444444444 4444444 444444444444444444444 444444 444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444444

4444444444444444

4444

44

44444444444444444444444444444444

4444444444444444444444444444444444444

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

]

]

]]

]

^

^

\

\

\

\

ALBERTA

NORTHWESTTERRITORIES

BRITISHCOLUMBIA

YUKON TERRITORY

ALASKA

WASHINGTON

USA

HaidaGwaii

QueenCharlotteSound

P A C I F I CO C E A N

USA

CANADAPetersburg

Skagway

KetchikanPrinceRupert

PrinceGeorge

Campbell River

VancouverBellingham

SeattleVictoria

Juneau

FG32

INSET

0 400 km0 200 miles#e

21 Oregon Cascades Scenic

Byways A nonstop parade of

forests, lakes, waterfalls and

mountains. 4 DAYS

12 On the Trail of Lewis & Clark American pioneer

history and interactive state

parks. 3–4 DAYS

13 Highway 101 Oregon Coast Diversions include

whale-watching, lighthouses

and seafood. 7 DAYS

16 Columbia River Gorge &

Mt Hood Two of Oregon’s

best features vie for your

attention. 3 DAYS

#

#

#

##

#

#

#

#

# #

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

]

]

]

]

]

]

]

]

]

]

]

^

^

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

\

R

R

R

R

WASHINGTON

BRITISHCOLUMBIA

CANADA

USA

Cascad

eRange

Strait of Juan de Fuca

Strait of Georgia

CapeFlattery

Mt Olympus(7965ft)

Mt Baker(10,781ft)

GlacierPeak

(10,541ft)

Mt Rainier(14,411ft)

Oka

noga

nRiver

Lillooet River

Snake R

iver

Methow

River

FraserRiver

Leavenworth

Tofino

Chelan

Whistler

Duncan

Sooke

Wenatchee

EllensburgAberdeen

PortAngeles

MosesLake

Parksville

Merritt

Hope

CampbellRiver Kelowna

Squamish

VancouverNanaimo

Bellingham

Everett

Yakima

Seattle

Tacoma

Bremerton

Victoria

Olympia

LakeRoosevelt

LakeCowichan

RossLake

BanksLake

OkanaganLake

LakeChelan

Columb i a River

Riffe Lake

PotholesReservoir

SanJuanIslands

PugetSound

WillapaBay

VancouverIsland

OlympicNationalPark

Mt RainierNationalPark

NorthCascades

National Park

Réserve deParc National du

Canada Pacific Rim

ColvilleNationalForest

‚Continuedon inset

1 Mountains to Sound Greenway Washington’s only

east-west interstate has a

greenway. 1–2 DAYS

6 Cascade DriveWild West towns, Bavarian

villages and moody mountains.

4–5 DAYS

26 Sea to Sky HighwayCoastal towns to snowy peaks

with classic BC sights and

views en route. 1–2 DAYS

30 Okanagan Valley Wine Tour Overflowing fruit stands,

award-winning vineyards and

amazing cuisine. 2 DAYS32 Up the Inside Passage

Travel aboard a scenic ferry to

far-flung coastlines and gold-rush towns. 4 DAYS

THE THE PACIFIC PACIFIC NORTHWEST’SNORTHWEST’S

RA

ND

Y L

INC

KS

/ C

OR

BIS

©

AL

AS

KA

ST

OC

K ©

AL

AN

KE

AR

NE

Y /

GE

TT

Y IM

AG

ES

©

AL

AS66 Cascade Drive North

Cascades National Park o ers challenging hikes with rewarding views.

qq Sea to Sky Highway Travel between forested mountainsides and the misty, island-studded ocean.

ww Up the Inside Passage Humpback whales and stunning scenery make for an unforgettable ferry ride.

WHAT IS A CLASSIC TRIP? All the trips in this book show you the best of the Paci c Northwest, but we’ve chosen nine as our all-time favorites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the iconic sights, the top activities and the unique Paci c Northwest experiences. Turn the page to see the map, and look for the Classic Trip stamp throughout the book.

THE PACIFIC THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST’SNORTHWEST’S

qq

ww66

Inside Passage Board a ferry and enjoy a constant visual feast

Up the Inside Passage

4 DAYS 1119 MILES/1800KM

GREAT FOR…

J

BEST TIME TO GO June to September – the snow has melted and wild owers bloom.

I ESSENTIAL PHOTO

Totem poles, tall pines and soaring eagles at Chief Shakes Island.

K BEST FOR WILDLIFE

Bears, bald eagles, whales and sea lions – they’re all out there waiting to be spotted.

32 Set sail on an Alaska Ferry from Bellingham, Washington, tracing the lush Canadian coastline before slipping into the foggy emerald maze of Alaska’s wild, remote Inside Passage.

AL

AS

KA

ST

OC

K ©

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

#

PrinceRupert

Bellingham

##3

##6##5

##8mK

lL

Petroglyph BeachSearch for wildlife figures among the

ancient rock carvings

1101 km

Mendenhall GlacierThis frozen rivertumbles down fromthe Juneau Icefield andis within easy reach

1546 km

Lynn CanalDramatically carved by

Mother Nature, this is North America’s longest,

deepest fjord

1594 kmWhite Pass &Yukon RailroadA spine-tingling ride over gorges and across trestles in vintage railcars

1802 km

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

327

Look out for the Classic Trips stampon our favorite routes in this book.

11Mountains to Sound Greenway ......1–2 Days 35

66 CascadeDrive......................... 4–5 Days 77

cc 0n the Trail of Lewis & Clark........ 3–4 Days 129

ddHighway 101 Oregon Coast ............. 7 Days 149

gg Columbia River Gorge & Mt Hood ....... 3 Days 179

ll Oregon CascadesScenic Byways ..........4 Days 221

qq Sea to SkyHighway ..................1–2 Days 273

uu Okanagan ValleyWine Tour ...................2 Days 309

wwUp the InsidePassage ......................4 Days 327

5

01-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 501-title-contents-tr-pnw2.indd 5 21/09/2012 12:08:40 PM21/09/2012 12:08:40 PM

Brendan Sainsbury UK-born Brendan lives in White Rock, BC, 1 mile from the 49th parallel. The San Juan Islands and Olympic Mountains beckon from his kitchen window. He has been writing about the region for Lonely Planet since 2007 with books on the Pacifi c Northwest and the USA. He once ran 100 miles nonstop across the Cascade Mountains in an esoteric race. For fi nishing he received a rock with the words ‘Plain 100’ painted on it. It is one of his most prized possessions.

My Favorite Trip 6 Cascade Drive for the opportunities it off ers to jump out of the car and sample some short but epic hikes.

Korina Miller Road trips have been an essential life ingredient since Korina was a small child growing up on Vancouver Island. While her friends were darting off to Hawaii and Florida, Korina’s parents were packing the car and taking her on month-long journeys across Canada and up and down the Pacifi c Coast, from Alaska to Mexico. Korina has since traveled to more than three dozen countries, writing over two dozen Lonely Planet titles en route. She still includes road trips whenever she can, exploring India on the back of a motorbike, cruising through Sicilian villages and zipping down Japanese motorways.

My Favorite Trip t Vancouver Island’s Remote North for its wild beaches, giant trees and roaming bears.

367

56-our-writers-tr-pnw2.indd 36756-our-writers-tr-pnw2.indd 367 25/09/2012 8:45:36 AM25/09/2012 8:45:36 AM

OUR STORYOUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end –

broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR OUR WRITERSWRITERS

Celeste Brash Locals have a hard time believing it, but the beauty of the Pacifi c Northwest is what coaxed Celeste back to the US after 15 years in Tahiti. She was thrilled to explore and imbibe the treasures of her new backyard for this book and to get in touch with her cowboy and Indian roots. Up until now her award-winning travel articles and stories, which have appeared in publications such as Travelers’ Tales, LA Times and Islands magazine, have focused on Southeast Asia and the South Pacifi c.

My Favorite Trip g Columbia River Gorge & Mt Hood because of its ever-changing spectacular scenery.

Mariella Krause Mariella loves a good road trip, and feels lucky to live just six hours south of the Oregon border (especially now that she knows all the best places to go). Researching this book was her second major tour through the Pacifi c Northwest, having traveled through Washington state for the fi rst edition. This is her eighth title for Lonely Planet.

My Favorite Trip d Highway 101 Oregon Coast for the laid-back pace and the amazing hikes that reward you with ocean views.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9832nd edition – Feb 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 815 9© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely

Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

MORE WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, dis-claim all liability arising from its use.

56-our-writers-tr-pnw2.indd 36856-our-writers-tr-pnw2.indd 368 25/09/2012 8:45:53 AM25/09/2012 8:45:53 AM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’