The Rosanna Settlers:

with Captain Herd on the coast

of New Zealand 1826-7:

including Thomas Shepherd’s Journal

and his coastal views

The New Zealand Company of 1825

by Hilda McDonnell

Rosanna Settlers package: Revised draft March 2002Word Count: 33,803 words of textPages: 93 pages of typescript Illustrations: 1 box

Hilda McDonnellEmail: hildafairfield@paradise.net.nzPhone: 04 9719788

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Contents

Charts

Preface

Introduction

1. A remnant of the Rosanna settlers 8

2. Captain Herd of the Providence 11

3. The New Zealand Company of 1825 16

4. Thomas Shepherd and friends 19

5. Officials and Scottish settlers 23

6. The David Wilkie connection 27

7. The Rosanna voyage 30

Thomas Shepherd’s Journal 33

8. Northern New Zealand 70

9. Aftermath 75

AppendicesA. ChronologyB. Remarks on geographical positions of places visited in New Zealand,

by James HerdC. Physical description of Thomas Shepherd’s JournalD. Thomas Shepherd’s Coastal viewsE. Emigration per ship Ann

Other sourcesFurther readingAcknowledgmentsIllustrations

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Charts

Drawn by James Herd:

Chart of the Harbour of Hoki Anga on the Western Coast of New Zealand December 10th

1822 (ATL 150078½)

Southern Port (ATL 96961-2½)

Otago or Port Oxley in New Zealand. 1826 (ATL 93211½)

Wanganuetara or Port Nicholson surveyed and drawn in the year 1826 (ATL 53007)

Part of the S.W. side of the Frith of the Thames in New Zealand surveyed by Captain J. Herd.J.W. Norie & Co., July 1st 1828 (Hydrography Office, Taunton. G263.2/30)

The entrance to Jokeehangar River surveyed by Captain J. Herd, 1827. J.W. Norie & Co., July1st 1828 (Hydrography Office, Taunton. G263.2/30)

_________________________________

Drawn by T. Barnett:

Port Nicholson or W’angenuea’ter’a New Zealand surveyed and Drawn by T. Barnett May1826. To J. Nicholson Esq. this Chart is respectfully presented…Sydney March 12th 1827(ATL 3178)

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5

Preface

When Grahame Anderson’s Fresh about Cook Strait came onto the library shelves inDecember 1984 I decided to treat myself to a good look through it. A coastal sketch andextracts from a journal kept on board the Rosanna by Thomas Shepherd caught my eye.Shepherd had visited Port Nicholson in 1826.

Who was Thomas Shepherd? I decided to go to the Alexander Turnbull Library to tryand find out. Through their indexes I learnt that Thomas Shepherd was a nurseryman andlandscape gardener who died in Sydney, New South Wales in 1835. The Turnbull even hadtwo books Shepherd had written. That same afternoon I was able to sit with two small leather-bound volumes with marble end-papers. One was inscribed by Thomas Shepherd anddedicated to Governor Darling, a name I vaguely associated with the Darling Downs inAustralia. So began a 12-year investigation into the story of the Rosanna settlers.

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Introduction:

In 1825 a group of Scottish settlers, though some were said to have been from Cumberland,sailed on the barque Rosanna from London with Captain Herd. They were part of a NewZealand Company venture planned to last three years.

The New Zealand Company settlers sailed from Leith, the Edinburgh port, by whatship it is not known. They proceded to London and from thence by the Rosanna, the vesselthat was to take them to the other side of the world. The Rosanna was accompanied by thestoreship Lambton.

The Rosanna settlers were employed by the New Zealand Company as indenturedservants. Heading the list of employees was Thomas Shepherd, a nurseryman and landscapegardener originally from Scotland. As agricultural superintendent Shepherd kept a journalwhile on the coast of New Zealand, produced coastal sketches and made summary notes,completed at the Bay of Islands. Several women and children came on the Rosanna, includingThomas Shepherd’s family. Three children were born on the voyage.

The Rosanna left London on 27 August 1825 bound for ‘New South Wales, Ec’. Itwas soon joined by the Lambton (Captain Barnett). The vessels sailed via Tristan da Cunha.At the Snares Islands the settlers, including the women, went ashore. On 6 March 1826 theyreached the south of New Zealand and came to anchor at Southern Port (Pegasus harbour) inStewart Island.

After six weeks at Stewart Island the ships set sail along the east coast of NewZealand. In his journal Shepherd described Stewart Island, Otago harbour (which theyentered), Banks Peninsula and the Kaikoura coast. They were some time at Cloudy Bay,explored Queen Charlotte Sound and then crossed over to Wanganui a Tara (Port Nicholson)where they spent eight days. After this the journal entries cease. Continuing along the eastcoast a visit was made to White Island, which Shepherd made notes on. The Rosanna wasnext at Mercury Bay. The winter months were spent anchored in the Firth of Thames area ofthe Hauraki Gulf.

Captain Herd had by now decided against forming a settlement. At the end of October1826 the New Zealand Company vessels arrived in the Bay of Islands. At the missionarysettlement at Paihia Mrs Shepherd gave birth to a son, who was baptised by the Rev. WilliamWilliams. By this time Captain Herd and his party had seen or met up with most of theEuropeans then in New Zealand.

By December 1826 the New Zealand Company ships were on their way round to theHokianga river, which Captain Herd knew from an earlier visit. Finally, on 11 February 1827,the vessels arrived at Port Jackson (Sydney), New South Wales. At Sydney, the Lambton andall the stores, machinery and equipment belonging to the Company were sold. A little pearlfishing was engaged in. In May 1827 the Rosanna left Sydney for London. As previouslyagreed, those who wished returned with Captain Herd. Some, including the Shepherds and the

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other family groups, remained in New South Wales. Four of the Rosanna settlers made theirway back to the Bay of Island where one of their old shipmates already was.

In Sydney Thomas Shepherd set up the Darling Nursery and took part in public life. HisLectures on the horticulture of New South Wales (1835) and Lectures on landscape gardeningin Australia (1836) were published. A leather-bound copy of his Horticulture lectures foundits way to the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington. It had a handwritten dedication: “ToLieut.-General Sir Ralph Darling With the dutiful and sincere respects of the Author ThomasShepherd, Darling Nursery 1 May 1835.”

Thomas Shepherd died at the Darling Nursery, Sydney on 30 August 1835.Shepherd’s journal, together with his coastal sketches, is held by the Mitchell Library, StateLibrary of New South Wales. A microfilm copy is held at the Alexander Turnbull Library,National Library of New Zealand, which also holds the McDonnell transcript of Shepherd’sjournal (MS-0527).

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1 A remnant of the Rosanna settlers

At the Bay of Islands on 2 July 1827 Captain Peter Dillon (1788-1847) came upon a remnantof the Rosanna settlers. His Narrative was published in London in 1829. It was dedicated tothe chairman and directors of the Honourable East India Company. Dillon described how:

The natives took me along a path…I found the inhabitants of a very neat hut, anEnglish cooper and his wife, a native of New Zealand…[he] had been cooper’s mateto a whaler – left, ill…The cooper told us that he understood a company had beenformed in England for the purpose of establishing a factory here and to procure spars,flax and the other productions of New Zealand. That for this purpose a ship and cutterbelonging to the company arrived from England, under the command of their agent,Captain Herd, with mechanics of the descriptions most likely to promote the end inview. They consisted of ship-carpenters, sawyers, blacksmiths, and flax-dressers, andthey had on board with them machines for sawing and flax-dressing. Captain Herdhowever disliked the appearance of the New Zealanders so much, and certainly, fromhis own account, he was perfectly justified in so doing, that he abandoned theexpedition, and proceeded to Port Jackson, and on his arrival at Sydney such of themechanics as desired it were discharged. Four of them returned to New Zealand, tookup their lodgings witht the cooper and were now employed on the other side of thebay, by the missionaries established here, in repairing a small schooner that plies toNew South Wales, and bring supplies for the missionary establishment…We passed a little further along the beach, and came to another small cabin, inhabitedby a blacksmith that belonged to Captain Herd’s expedition and settled here when itfirst touched at the islands. He is married to a New Zealand woman.

Dillon returned to the Bay of Islands on 9 November 1827:

I engaged two caulkers who resided on shore to make the necessary repairs (Poopdeck being leaky, and admitted water onto our arms and bedding) and perform otherjobs required on board. These men were part of the crew of the Rosannah, which wasfitted out by a company in London to establish a factory in New Zealand, an accountof the failure of which project has been [already] noticed.

The French navigator J.S. Dumont d’Urville (1790-1842) had been at the Bay of Islands earlythe same year. There he heard from missionary Henry Williams about the visit of CaptainHerd. On 13 March 1827 Dumont d’Urville noted (Olive Wright’s translation):

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The establishment that the Agricultural Society had tried to set up on the banks of theShoukianga [Hokianga] river did not develop; it was abandoned after an expenditureof more than twenty thousand pounds on preliminary work…A company had been formed with the modest title of “the New Zealand Flax Society”and had tried quite recently to found an establishment in these parts for large scalecultivation of Phormium tenax and the exploitation of timber for building. The newsettlement consisted of seventy people under the direction of Mr Shepherd who by longresidence in New Zealand was well fitted for the position.The colonists were landed at Shouraki [Hauraki] Bay by Captain Herd and they firstchose a site for the settlement which appeared to suit their aims; but hearing verysoon afterwards that the natives had made a plot to attack them without any warningand carry off everything they had brought with them, the new settlers fled with allspeed. Then they went to the shores of the Shouki Ang [Hokianga] where they stayed afew days to investigate the district. Finally, realizing that the alleged advantages ofwhich so much had been said to them, in no way came up to their expectations theyoncemore took their way back to New South Wales without ever having landed.

The previous December, while at Port Jackson on the eve of his second New Zealandvisit, Dumont d’Urville had lunched with New Zealand missionary Samuel Marsden. Dumontrecorded in his journal that several chiefs of the Cook Strait area had stayed with Marsden,notably Tippahi [Te Pehi Kupe] and Oroura.

Dumont also dined in Sydney at the house of Alexander McLeay (1767-1848), thenew Colonial Secretary of New South Wales. Just that year arrived in the colony fromLondon McLeay had been for many years secretary of the Linnean Society. He was also oneof Thomas Shepherd’s “earliest friends.” At that December 1826 meeting in Sydney McLeaywould no doubt have talked with Dumont d’Urville about the New Zealand Company settlersthen in New Zealand.

In Sydney Dumont d’Urville’s communications with home were put together in aparcel, addressed to the French ambassador in London and taken to McLeay who, in the spiritof cooperation then operating among scientists and men of learning, undertook to have themsent to London on the Regalia.

Dumont d’Urville left Sydney soon after and passed through Cook Strait. Then, likeCaptain Herd six months earlier, he sailed along the east coast of the North Island. LikeCaptain Herd Dumont d’Urville also produced a chart of the Hauraki gulf. On it he includedPahii, Po-Nui, Ile Wai Heke [Waiheke Island], Wai tamata and Baie Shouraki [Hauraki Bay].

The travelling artist Augustus Earle (1793-1838) also met up with some of the Rosannasettlers. Earle sailed from Sydney in October 1827 with Captain Kent and arrived in theHokianga at Rawene (he left New Zealand in April 1828). Up the Waihou river Earle:

found a party of men who had come out on the Rosanna, the vessel employed by theNew Zealand Company. They were busily employed getting timber, sawing planks andmaking oars for the Sydney market. Patuone, the chief, seemed very proud of havingthem on his territory as it added to his power and consequence among the neigbouringchiefs.

Augustus Earle had been in Rio de Janeiro and Chile. In 1820 he took up residence inLima, Peru, where he made a panoramic record of the blockade of the nearby port of Callao

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by the exiled British admiral Lord Thomas Cochrane (1775-1860), who will appear again inthe Rosanna settlers story.

Another English wanderer was Edward Markham (1801-1865), who left Hobart Town on 7February 1834 in the Brazil Packet (Captain Crow) and crossed the Hokianga bar on 18February. Markham met:

Maclean who went out some ten years ago as carpenter when a New Zealand Companywas formed in England, and they bought land which is theirs at the moment. They sent outnumbers of people, under Capt Hird but with what object I cannot tell. The stores, whichincluded flax machinery, were sold and the emigrants offered a passage home at thecompany’s expense.

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2 Captain Herd of the Providence

In June 1821 the ship Providence, with Captain Herd as master, left London with 103 femaleprisoners bound for New South Wales. The colony at that time included Van Diemen’s Land.All had been convicted in English or Scottish courts. Also on board were 17 groups of womenand children brought out at government expense to join convicted men already in the colony.The Providence carried a few cabin passengers as well, whose names were listed in theHobart Town Gazette in late December 1821 when the Providence reached Hobart Town.They were: Mrs Halloran, Miss Laura Halloran, the Misses Anna Mary, Margaret and ElizaMagill, Mr and Mrs Platt and family and Mr and Mrs Robertson and family. Among thefemale convicts transported by Captain Herd were:

Providence

Names Where Convicted When Term Rebecca Stretch Chester (City) Pleas of Crownmote 22Aug1820 Seven YrsEsther Crew ditto Session of pleas 23Aug1820 Seven Yrs alias JonesMary Gray ditto (City) Pleas of Crownmote 26Oct 1820? Seven YrsMary Connor Devon Assizes 31Jul1820 Seven YrsAnn the wife of Gloucester Quarter 17Oct1820 Seven Yrs Joseph Lloyd SessionMary Neville Lancaster ditto 31Jan1820 LifeBridget ditto Assizes 20 Mar1820 Life..L’EstrangeMary Mort ditto Quarter Session 17 Apr1820 Seven YrsMary Taylor ditto ditto 17Jul1820 Seven YrsMary Hill ditto Assizes 23Aug1820 LifeMary Clarke ditto Quarter Session 03Oct1820 Seven YrsJane Jones alias ditto ditto 06Nov1820 Seven Yrs LinbackElizabeth Gould London Gaol delivery 13 Sep1820 Fourteen

YrsMary Hughes ditto ditto 13Sep1820 Seven YrsAnn Prince ditto ditto 25Oct1820 Fourteen

Yrs

En route to New South Wales the Providence called at Praia in the Cape Verde Islandsand at Rio de Janeiro. Then sailing in an easterly direction along the Great Circle route theProvidence touched at Tristan da Cunha and St Paul’s Island in the Indian Ocean. At last, on

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17 December 1821 the Providence finally reached Hobart Town and half the female convictswere landed.

In 1822, like other missionaries bound for New Zealand, Henry Williams and his wifeMarianne travelled by convict transport. They sailed along the same route to New SouthWales as Captain Herd. Coming out on the Lord Sidmouth both missionaries kept a journal ofevents. Like Captain Herd they passed the barren Cape Verde Islands. At Rio they noticedsaints enclosed in glass cases on street corners, saw the local slave market and the slavetrading ships in Rio harbour belonging to the English merchants. On 21 November 1822 fourslave vessels were noted close to them in the harbour, laden with children. Marianne’s littleson became a pet with the first mate, the surgeon, the captain’s steward and the mate. Twoconvict girls attended her children during the day but were locked in the prison at night.

Once when another ship passed the captains talked to each other through the speakingtrumpet. Of a Sunday the “most respectable” of the free women appeared on deck, walkingabout with gloves on. There were separate quarters for men and women. Every part of theship below was offensive. They had milk from one of the goats on board and an ample supplyof linen. They were more than a fortnight becalmed near Brazil in a hot and trying climate.The thermometer showed 84 degrees and 90 degrees (fahrenheit) in the night. During therough weather all the women and children were sick and Marianne, when not too weak forwriting, attempted a little stitching and reading of the psalms and wrote letters.

Marianne Williams reported that the surgeon was good to the prisoners and toleratedthe “obscene singing of the convict women,” attended the sick and “prevented the womenhaving contact with the sailors.” The cockroaches got into the bread, cheeses, hams, potatoesand also into books, boots, shoes, paper-parcels and musket-stocks. The master of the ship,“advanced in years and of a nervous disposition,” had his own way in everything. Heoccasionally suffered from gout.

Off St Paul’s Island a party consisting of the captain, the surgeon and Henry Williamstogether with the boat crew were away more than two hours. They took with them guns,pistols and fishing tackle, expecting to bring back wild pigs and fish. They stood off and on,continually putting the ship about in waiting. When they landed at St Paul’s they were able toboil the fish on the hook in the hot spring. They proceeded to the fishing ground just over thebar and caught quite a few fish but as it came on squally, they returned on board.

By the time they got near Hobart Town there was very little milk and no potatoes onboard. They proceeded along the high rocky shore south of Van Diemen’s Land. The captain,Henry Williams and the surgeon examined the shore with the glasses and chart. MarianneWilliams recorded her impressions of Hobart Town:

The pilot came on board immediately after breakfast. The rain prevented my watchingthe shores of the Derwent until we were off Hobart Town when it cleared up, and gaveus a view of this young capital which after leaving Rio appeared diminutive…I wasmuch interested in the situation of the free women. No boat was allowed to come onboard but that of the water-bailiff, a convict, and round him they all flocked, to obtainnews of their husbands. Several of them from time to time were fetched away by thisperson; and their husbands, convicts, waited for them, on the jetta. Our convicts wereall gazing over the ship’s side, and many persons were on the beach. The first womanfor whom a note was sent was a young, pretty looking and well-behaved woman withthree children, dressed so sprucely I could not recognise my old bare-footedacquaintances.

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A little boy about three years old was first handed down; and the father immediatelyjumped off the landing place to some stones beneath. Some of the poor women couldgain no tidings of their husbands and were in great anxiety and distress.

When Captain Herd arrived at Hobart Town on the Providence in 1821 the harbourmaster wasJames Kelly, who was master of the Sophia during the infamous 1817 incident in Otagoharbour. The Providence left Hobart Town on 31 December 1821 and arrived at Sydney with51 female prisoners, 19 children and “free” passengers. There were no adverse reports relatingto the voyage of the Providence and it was apparently a well-conducted voyage. The surgeon,Dr Reid, left the ship at Sydney. Herd spent some two and a half months in Port Jacksonwhere he would have obtained what information he could about New Zealand, his nextintended destination. Captain Herd then readied himself to sail:

Muster Roll of the Providence, departing Sydney 26 March 1822 [AO NSW Ref: 4/4773, Reel 561]:Muster roll of the ship Providence of London Mr. James Herd Master, Burthen, per Register, 300 tons, arrived in Sydney Cove [Jan ] 182[2], sailed [March] 182[2]. bound to the West Coast of America.

Jas Herd MasterWm Greer 1st mateHenry Best 2d dittoGeo Bartlett BoatsnDavd Flemming CarpenterWm Falmswth Sailmaker Came in the VesselJn Martin CookJn Rae StewardJas Ellis SeamanDanl Lost dittoJas Chambers dittoRobt Walton dittoThos Reynolds dittoDavd Daley dittoThos Mannings Able Boy

Saml Robart Seaman discharged from MidasJn Hutton ditto cleared fr Active, pd 3/6Henry Bartley ditto discharged from Elizth Henrietta 24 Dec 1821Jn Goff Boy Run from HindostanEven Dowell Seaman discharged from Midas, 16 Feb 1822Chas. Smith Boy run from Ld. Eldon 1818, lived since

with George Murphy, watermanDavid Ross Seaman embarked from Jail

Mustered 22 Mar “22. On board: 21300 tons… ₤ 9.10 21 persons 2.12.6

12.02.6

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Due to stress of weather and contrary winds, on 9 April 1822 the Providence again put in toHobart Town where Reid, the ex-surgeon of the Providence, already was. He was returning toEngland. Then on 22 April, with “full crew and passengers” according to a Port Certificatebook, the Providence again left Hobart Town. The vessel reached the Bay of Islands on 8May. To get there Captain Herd may possibly have sailed to the east of New Zealand.

The Providence remained two days in the Bay of Islands, taking on board themissionary Thomas Kendall as interpreter. Kendall had first come across to New Zealand in1814 with Captain Dillon in the Active and in Sydney had published a little grammar of theNew Zealand language. He had only recently returned from a visit to England with two chiefs,Hongi and the young Waikato. His wife and family had remained in New Zealand, includinghis oldest son Thomas Surfleet Kendall.

By 19 May the Providence was anchored in the Hokianga river. Captain Herd was toremain there four months, trading with the local people and obtaining a return cargo of kaurispars. He had experience of the northern spar trade. On 28 June Captain Herd wrote to JohnCowell, a rope maker and lay missionary in the Bay of Islands, asking him to join them.Cowell then went tothe Hokianga for a month. Cowell had come over from Sydney on theWestmoreland on 13 February and had been staying with the Kendalls. On 28 June CaptainHerd wrote:

We have taken on board a quantity of fine spars, but the natives cut the largerones too short, for instance, spars of thirty to twenty inches are not longer than sixty-four or sixty-eight foot, while they should have been eighty foot, and this renders themnot of one half the value they would have been in England; so that I am thinking couldwe sell these in Port Jackson at such a price as would save the ship’s expenses, Iwould return here and procure a cargo of select spars that would pay the ship well tocarry home. We have obtained five to six hundred loads of timber, the greater partexcellent spars for general purposes, and a great many masts for vessels of fourhundred tons burthen.

Herd and Kendall quarrelled but Captain Herd later said of Kendall that he could nothave obtained his cargo of kauri spars without him. Kendall was paid ₤150. Herd made asurvey of the Hokianga river and the bar at the heads and a copy of this chart was left withKendall.

On board the Providence in the Hokianga river on 7 August 1822 James Herd, master of theProvidence, Thomas Kendall, missionary, and William Edward Greer, 1st officer of theprovidence, signed their names as witnesses to an:

Agreement between the Baron Charles Phillipe Hippolytus de Thierry ofSomerset, England and Queen’s College, Cambridge and Mudi Wai [Muriwai], PatuOne [Patuone] and Nene, (there present), native residents on the banks of the RiverIokeanga [Hokianga] in the Islands of New Zealand, whereby the…aforementionedchiefs and natives of New Zealand sold forever all the said lands, woods and waterssituated in the boundaries there designated, to the extent of 40,000 acres [ArchivesNew Zealand OLC 1045]

Patuone, Muriwai and Nene made their marks on the document. Payment was 36 axes.Patuone had met Samuel Marsden in 1819 at the chief’s home in New Zealand. During thesummer of 1819/1820 Patuone had commanded 800 warriors in an expediton to the south. He

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had told Marsden in November 1820 that he had gone as far south as Cook Strait and hadcrossed to the South Island.

Patuone was to visit Sydney in 1826 and in 1827 Patuone and Nene went to the helpof the Wesleyan mission then in danger at Whangaroa. Patuone later gave his protection to theNew Zealand Company settlers in the Hokianga.

Based at Kerikeri was John Gare Butler, the senior Church Missionary Society missionary. Hehad returned to New Zealand from Sydney in February 1822 on the same ship as John Cowell.That year he made several notes in his diary about Captain Herd and the Providence:

Sunday 23 June [1822]: Wykaot [Waikato], the one of the natives that accompaniedMr Kendall to England, arrived at Kide Kide [Kerikeri] this morning fromShukihangah [Hokianga], bringing the news that the ship “Providence,” Capt Herd,is loading in that harbour with spars, and paying for them with muskets and powder.Rev. Mr Kendall is aboard to act as interpreter, and will remain until the ship is full!!

Late August: Mr Kendall is at Shukianga, as also is Mr Cowell. Tuesday andWednesday: the ship Providence came intot he harbur on Friday, laden with sparsfrom the River Shukeanga. Rev. Mr Kendall who acted as interpreter for her returnedto Rangi Hoo [Rangihoua] on her. Capt Herd I understand, intends to dispose of thespars at Valparaiso, and reload for England from thence, if possible.

Monday 2 September: Thursday and Friday the ship Providence went out of theharbour Thurday Sept 4th, after having one of the boats broken by Wykato at RangiHoo.

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3 The New Zealand Company of 1825

Captain Herd would have been back in London by 1823. Two years later there were movesafoot in the City of London to launch a small colonising venture in New Zealand, withCaptain Herd as its agent. By March 1825 a New Zealand Company had been formed byleading people in the City: merchants, members of parliament and shipowners, some of themalready associated with the East India Company.

The directors of the New Zealand Company were: John George Lambton (chairman),John William Buckle, George Lyall, Stewart Marjoribanks, George Palmer, Robert Torrens,Edward Ellice, James Faden, Edward John Littleton, William Mannings, Hon. CourtenayBoyle, Russell Ellice, Ralph Fenwick, James Pattison, Aaron Chapman and Abraham WildeyRobarts. Several of them had connections with the north of England.

The politician John George (“Radical Jack”) Lambton (1792-1840), was the mostprominent of the directors. An aristocrat and a wealthy man, he was interested in colonisationfor philanthropic reasons. (His grandmother Lady Susan Lyon was a daughter of 8th Earl ofStrathmore.) When their father William Lambton M.P. died at Pisa in 1797 the two littleLambton boys were sent home to England to live for two years in the household of ThomasBeddoes (1760-1808), the Bristol physician. Doctor Beddoes was regarded as progressive. Hewas married to Anna Edgeworth, a sister of the writer Maria Edgeworth. Beddoescollaborated with the Edgeworths (Maria and her father Richard Lovell Edgeworth, who wasa former president of the Royal Society) and contributed notes for the first two chapters of theEdgeworths’ treatise Practical education (1798). Their idea was that children should befurnished with practical things: pencils, scissors, paste, tools, work-benches and manageably-sized implements for gardening.

Lambton was twice married. His second wife Louisa Grey (born 1797) was the eldestchild of Charles, 2nd Earl Grey, Lord Howick (1764-1845) and his wife Mary Ponsonby. TheGreys (he was at one time Foreign Secretary) were a prominent Northumberland family. Theirpermanent residence was Howick in Northumberland.

In 1811 Lambton’s sister Francis Susan married Frederick, third son of 5th Earl ofCarlisle, Viscount Howard of Morpeth, Northumberland. Lambton’s brother-in-law FrancisRichard Grey (born 1813), was a future clergyman, later rector of Morpeth. He later married adaughter of the sixth Earl of Carlisle.

*

The other directors of the New Zealand Company were as follows:John William Buckle, solicitor for the 1825 Company, partner in the shipowning firm

of Buckle, Buckle, Bagster and Buchanan. Many of the firm’s vessels were employed in theconvict service to New South Wales. Buckle was at one time chairman of the Shipowners’Society.

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George Lyall (1779-1853), a politician and a merchant. He became head of a familyfirm of East India merchants and shipowners. In the 1820s he was chairman of theShipowners’ Society. He represented the City of London in several parliaments and was asometime chairman of the East India Company.

Stewart Marjoribanks (1774-1863), also a politician and merchant, was connectedwith the East India Company and a founder of the Pacific Pearling Company of 1825. Hiseldest brother was, from 1814-1825, Lord Provost of Edinburgh.

George Palmer (1772-1853), a politician and merchant; in the East India Companynaval service. He entered a family partnership of East India merchants and shipowners.

Robert Torrens (1780-1864), political economist; later a founder of the colony ofSouth Australia.

Edward Ellice (1781-1863), brother-in-law of Lambton, an M.P. with radicalsympathies, 1818-1826.

Admiral Sir Courtenay Boyle (died 1844), urged and encouraged Alexander McLeay,Thomas Shepherd’s friend, to accept the position of Colonial Secretary of New South Wales.

James Pattison, chairman of the East India Company, 1818 and 1822.Edward John Littleton (1791-1863), 1st Baron Hatherton,a landowner and politician;

M.P. for Staffordshire from 1812 and friend of financier Sir William Huskisson (1770-1830),the leading advocate of free trade: Huskisson was M.P. for Morpeth. In 1821 he wasappointed to the committee set up that year to enquire into agricultural distress. It wasHuskisson’s friendship with Lord Carlisle that in 1796 procured him the representation ofMorpeth. The Littletons had family estates at Oxley in Staffordshire.

At a meeting on 24 March 1825 between the New Zealand Company directors Lambton andLittleton and the Colonial Secretary Earl Bathurst, the Colonial Secretary saw no reason whythe Company should not load a ship and send it off to explore trading prospects in thatcountry (New Zealand). By next day however, Bathurst had changed his mind: there was noquestion of military support for the traders.

The New Zealand Company venture may have been financed by Quaker bankers JohnWakefield and Sons of Kendal, Westmoreland. This was a local bank in the northwest ofEngland, later Martins. The bank was established in Kendal in 1788 and eventually becamepart of Barclay’s.

In New Zealand, Hokianga resident Kruzo Phillips (a late twentieth-centurydescendant of Rosanna settler Alexander Gray), wrote to the author quoting Rev. ClementinaGordon, another Hokianga local, asserting that it was Clementina’s family’s bank (she was aWakefield) who financed the New Zealand Company, Captain Herd and the Rosanna settlers.

This idea sounded far fetched but it was supported by Four centuries of banking, amassive two-tomed work by George Chandler (1968), which a librarian produced from thedepths of the Wellington Pubic Library. Volume 2 dealt with the northern constituent banksof Martins Bank. In his preface Chandler acknowledged assistance from descendants of theseearly English bankers, including a Mrs P.Gordon. Chandler’s book included illustrations ofbanknotes and cheques from John Wakefield and Sons, Kendal, a forerunner of the KendalBank.

According to Chandler, Wakefield’s bank was established in 1788 by John WakefieldI (born 1738), a leading opponent of the slave trade, as were other Quaker bankers. His sonJohn Wakefield II (1761-1829) also had progressive views, and in the parliamentary electionsof 1818 supported the Reform candidate Henry Brougham.

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Wakefield’s creditworthiness was such that many preferred a “Jackie Wakefield” noteto one from the Bank of England. This credit rating was used by his relative Edward GibbonWakefield during the financial crisis of 1826, during which the latter persuaded an heiress toelope with him.

During 1826 John Wakefield II was senior partner of Wakefield’s bank. The Carlisleand Cumberland Banking Company Ltd was also described in Chandler’s book. As alreadymentioned, Captain Herd and some of the Rosanna settlers were said to have come from theborder county of Cumberland.

The Bells were another branch of this Quaker banking family. Priscilla Bell, a grandaughterof Quaker bankers David Barclay and Priscilla Freame, married Edward Wakefield (1750-1826). Priscilla and Edward were the grandparents of Edward Gibbon Wakefield. The twoBell sisters Priscilla and Catherine (later Mrs Gurney, mother of the prison reformer MrsElizabeth Fry) together with Priscilla’s husband Edward appear in a painting ascribed toGainsborough and reproduced in a Wakefield family history. It was Elizabeth Fry who about1819 began to interest herself in the transportation of convict women to New South Wales.

As Mrs Priscilla Wakefield, Priscilla Bell was a pioneer in savings bank history. HerTottenham Benefit Bank opened on 1 January 1804. One of the first trustees was EardleyWilmot, M.P. His son, Sir Eardley Wilmot, was briefly governor of Van Diemens Land, andfirst president of the Hobart Savings Bank, founded in 1845.

Another member of the same family, Francis Dillon Bell (1822-1898), whose fatherwas a cousin of Edward Gibbon Wakefield, emigrated to New Zealand in the early 1840s andeventually became lands claims commissioner in New Zealand, thereby investigating landclaims made by surviving Rosanna settlers.

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4 Thomas Shepherd and friends

In 1825 the New Zealand Company directors gave command of their venture to James Herdwho, as we have seen, had been in New Zealand before. Six officials were assigned toaccompany him on the Rosanna: an agricultural superintendent, a marine surveyor, twoclerks, a surgeon and an interpreter. A document in the Archives Office of New South Waleslisted those on the Rosanna when the ship got to Sydney. A descendant of Thomas Shepherd,Una Shepherd Price, included the list in My family of Shepherds (1988), published for theAustralian bi-centenary:

A List of Mechanics Ec and their Labourers Ec, employed

by The New Zealand Company

Thos.Shepherd brought up in the Nursery Trade & wife and 5 children land surveying, highly recommended

to the Directors, Salary ₤400 pr Annumto increase to ₤500 at the discretionof the Directors.

Richard Bell Master in the Merchant Service,Employed also as a Surveyor of Harbours,Coasts, ec…Salary ₤200 p.Ann.

Luther Lechmere Clerk and Secretary to the Concern.Was some time employed by one ofthe Directors. . . Salary ₤120.

Arthur Hay Surgeon 150Thos. Kendall Interpreter and a Joiner 70James Sharp Assistant Clerk. Salary not fixed,

Left to the Superintendent’s discretion.John McLean JoinerBenjn Nesbit do

James Law do Salaries ₤73.10 eachGeorge Nimmo do

Alexr Lorimer do

David FlemmingColin Gillies Ship Carpenters. Salaries ₤34 each.Wm BensonAndrew Thompson Blacksmith . . .Salary ₤73.10Robert Archibald Stone mason “ 73.10William Oliphant do 73.10James Smith Wheelwright 52.10

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and childAlexr McClaren Turner 42Domas McDowal Flax dresser & Gardener 63Austin Waterson Baker 73.10John Durie Shoemaker 42Robert Bell 52.10 (Wife andChild)Andrew Bennett 52.10William [L]atto Ploughmen 52.10George Tod 42.10John Tod 52.10Samuel Sydenham – Wife and child 52.10 cooper

(AONSW: 4/6665.3)

Alexander Gray, the blacksmith mentioned by Captain Dillon, was not on board the Rosannawhen it reached Sydney, having jumped ship at the Bay of Islands. So he was not on the list.Neither was “a blackman,” shipped by Captain Herd while in New Zealand. He was probablyfrom America and was not one of the New Zealand Company people.

Thomas Shepherd (1779-1835), agricultural superintendent to the New Zealand Company,was a nurseryman and landscape gardener. He was born at Kembach, Fife, though one sourcegives his birthplace as Balcarres (Balcarres House was the home of the Earl of Crawford).Thomas was the son of Alexander Shepherd and Helen Galloway. He was baptised on 21March 1779 in the parish of Cults, Fife where his parents were married, Fife being in theLowlands of Scotland.

Thomas Shepherd’s father was for many years principal gardener to the Earl ofCrawford, Lord Lindsay, Earl of Balcarres, the “premier earl of Scotland.” One of the bestships of the East India Company, which ship owner Joseph Somes was later to pay ₤10,700for, was named the Earl of Balcarres. Shepherd’s grandfather and great-uncle had beentenants of the Earl of Crawford for nearly a century.

Shepherd served his time at Lord Crawford’s under his father’s tutelage. He later tooka position with a Mr White, a leading landscape gardener. This was probably Thomas White(1736?-1811), a pupil of “Capability” Brown, or his son, also Thomas White (1764?-1836).While working for White Shepherd designed parks and gardens in Scotland and England. “Itwas Mr White’s plans,” wrote Shepherd, “seen by me in my youth which first gave me a tastefor landscape gardening…I received lessons from him for one year in the art of landscapepainting.”

Thomas Shepherd left Scotland as a young man and settled in London. There heacquired an extensive plant nursery in the outlying suburb of Hackney. He married SarahJosling and his children were baptised at St John, Hackney: son Alexander on 10 June 1808,followed by Thomas Galloway (19 October 1810) and John Joselin (17 May 1812); daughterElizabeth Joselin was born two years later. His son John and daughter Elizabeth Shepherdwere to travel with their father on the Rosanna to New Zealand.

In March 1824 Thomas Shepherd’s second wife Jane gave birth to a son, ThomasWilliam. Scots-born Jane Susan Henderson was a daughter of David Henderson and SusanCockburn. Just before the Rosanna voyage Jane’s sister Isabella was married in Scotland to

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Robert Bell. Isabella and Robert Bell came to New Zealand on the Rosanna with theirrelatives, the Shepherds.

Based at Hackney Thomas Shepherd landscaped nearly a hundred parks, pleasuregrounds and gardens in England. He also supervised the execution of works he had designed.The landscape gardener Humphrey Repton (1752-1818) was a neighbour of Shepherd’s forsome years. For nearly twenty years until his death Repton lived at the villlage of Hare Streetin Essex. Shepherd received rents from land owned at Worthing, Essex. Repton publishedSketches and hints on landscape gardening (1795) and An enquiry into the change of taste inlandscape gardening and architecture (1806). Shepherd gave lectures on similar subjects inSydney. These were later published as small pamphlets.

Humphrey Repton became deeply influenced by drawings and acquatints of Indiaproduced by Thomas Daniell and his nephew William Daniell (1769-1837) from theirjourneys in India between 1786-1794. This was reflected in Repton’s designs for the pavilionat Brighton completed in 1808 for the Prince of Wales (later George IV). William Daniell wasresponsible for An Elevated View of the New Dock at Wapping, engraved about 1800. Thisgave a sweeping view of the river Thames, crowded with shipping.

The travelling artist Augustus Earle who met some of the Rosanna settlers in NewZealand, may have been instructed in the rudiments of painting by the Daniells. Earle’s sisterPhoebe (born 1790) knew William Daniell. Phoebe Earle was appointed Flower Painter toQueen Charlotte. A portrait in the National Gallery, London: Thomas Daniell R.A., waspainted by the artist David Wilkie, of whom more later.

Another artist in the family was William’s brother Samuel Daniell (1775-1811). Hesaw service with the East India Company, went to Africa, and visited the Cape of Good Hopeduring the first British occupation, serving in 1801 under Governor Francis Dundas. He thenspent some years in Ceylon (Sri Lanka), where he died. His African scenery and animals(1804-5) and Picturesque illustrations of Ceylon (1808) created great interest.

At the beginning of the 1820s Thomas Shepherd gave evidence before a House of CommonsCommittee on the state of the agricultural labourers of England and on the best means oflessening the poor rate then levied on parishes. This was probably the committee WilliamHuskisson was appointed to.

Early in 1825 Alexander McLeay, described as one of Thomas Shephed’s earliestfriends, was appointed the principal civil servant in Sydney. In London McLeay had beenSecretary of the Linnaen Society from its foundation up to 1825, and had corresponded withbotanists and naturalists allover the world. Naturalist William Swainson, later to settle in PortNicholson, New Zealand, had written to McLeay in 1817 from Brazil. William’s father,J.T.Swainson, Collector of Customs at Liverpool, England, was a foundation member of theLinnaen Society.

McLeay saw successive volumes of the Proceedings of the Linnaen Society throughthe press. Robert Brown (1773-1858), naturalist on Matthew Flinders’ voyage to Australia in1801-5 was, on his return, clerk and librarian to the Linnaen Society from 1805-1822, as wellas librarian to Sir Joseph Banks. (Flinders had been given ₤1200 by the East India Companytowards his voyage to Australia).

Of a congenial and diplomatic nature McLeay was a person of great reputation. Heand Sir Joseph Banks were friends of long standing. Alexander McLeay had been Secretary tothe Transport Board of the navy from 1806 until the Board was abolished in 1815 and hadbeen in charge of organising the transport of convicts to New South Wales.

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In 1823 Alexander McLeay spent five months in Scotland. In December 1824 he wasoffered the position of Colonial Secretary of New South Wales. “I felt and considered for afortnight before accepting it,” he wrote. One of those who urged him to accept was Vice-Admiral Sir Courtenay Boyle, soon to become a director of the New Zealand Company. On 8January 1825 Boyle wrote to McLeay urging him to accept the position. McLeay’sappointment was announced in June 1825. McLeay, his wife, and some of their large familyleft for Sydney later that year.

Before sailing for New SouthWales McLeay had his portrait painted by Sir ThomasLawrence. It was presented by subscribers and hung for many years in the Linnaen Societyrooms in London.

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5 Officials and Scottish settlers

The six officials who sailed with Captain Herd were from totally different backgrounds. Thesurgeon Arthur Hay, like Thomas Shepherd and most of the settlers, was from Scotland. Chiefclerk Luther Lechmere was from a well connected London family. Thomas Surfleet Kendall,the young interpreter, was born in London but as the son of missionary parents had grown upamong the Maori in New Zealand.

Richard Bell, master in the merchant service and a surveyor of harbours and coasts hasnot been further identified. But Commissioned Sea Officers of the Royal Navy lists a RichardBell, Lieutenant, commissioned 1 August 1794.

Luther Lechmere (1797-1882), clerk and secretary on the New Zealand Companyvoyage, had relatives in Hampstead known to the missionary families at Paihia. LutherLechmere had been working in London in the East India Office. Born at Bermondsey by theriver Thames he was the eldest son of Thomas Luther Lechmere (1797-1747), a coal merchantand customs official at the Custom House, London, and his wife Emelia Lavie. His parentswere married at Putney, in 1796. His grandfather, also Thomas Luther Lechmere (1739-1788), was a coal merchant and shipwright of Bermondsey apprenticed in 1755 to alighterman at Rotherhithe who married Sarah, daughter of Meredith Bishop, warden to theShipwright’s Company, and Mary, daughter of Captain Blackerby.

Another ancestor, Nicholas, Baron Lechmere, elevated to the peerage in 1721, becamechancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, married lady Elizabeth Howard, daughter of Charles,3rd Earl of Carlisle, and died without issue in 1727. Richard Lechmere, a great-uncle ofLuther’s, baptised in 1737 at Newbourne, Suffolk was a purser in the Royal Navy and died inthe East Indies in 1762.

On his mother’s side Luther Lechmere also had seagoing connections. His motherEmelia was the daughter of Germain Lavie and Ann Gregg. Emelia’s brother Sir ThomasLavie, was a British naval hero. He was held prisoner in France during the Napoleonic wars.He was knighted in 1806 for his conduct on the Blanche in naval action against the French.Sonsof Sir Thomas: Augustus (born 1805) and George (born 1813), also entered the navy(Augustus in 1822). George Lavie served as commander in the South American Station. Hewas on the Alligator in 1828 (Captain G.R. Lambert).

A Germain Lavie, probably Emelia’s father, was one of the local magistrates atHampstead in 1819 when a riot broke out there and he wrote a letter to the Home Office aboutit. Some 200 thugs arrived at the Hampstead fair and the local magistrates had to call in thehelp of special constables to quell the ensuing trouble. Germain Lavie renewed a plea that thefair should be suppressed.

The eldest son of Germain Lavie of St Johns Hampstead, also Germain Lavie (born1800), was educated at Eton and Christ Church, Oxford. A student in 1823 of Lincoln’s Innhe was admitted a solicitor in 1827.

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A Mr Lavie acted as solicitor for theAdmiralty in two court cases (the second onein1814) against Admiral Thomas Cochrane (1775-1860). This was Germain Lavie, mostlikely Emelia’s father. Exiled, Cochrane took command of the Chilean navy, whose blockadeof Callao, Peru was recorded by Augustus Earle. He relinquished his post in January 1823.Cochrane assumed command of the Brazilian navy and then of the Greek navy. A memorialstone to him was placed in Westminter Abbey.

On the Gregg side, Luther Lechmere’s grandfather Sir FrancesGregg was painted byGainsborough. The picture was afterwards in the Tate Gallery, London. A son of Sir FrancesGregg was a great friend of the Earl of Carlisle and M.P. for Morpeth.

Luther Lechmere was the eldest surviving child of nine. He and the next four in thefamily were born at Bermondsey; the three youngest at Clapham. A large oil painting ofLuther’s mother Emelia with her young children painted about 1805 remained in the familyuntil the early 1960s. Luther’s brother Henry Addington Lechmere, born in 1802, drowned ina boating accident in July 1826 while his brother Luther was away in New Zealand. Anotherbrother Charles (born 1800), eventually became Deputy Keeper of State Papers. LutherLechmere was to die without issue at Brighton, England.

Arthur Hay (born 1802?), surgeon on the Rosanna, became a member of the Royal College ofSurgeons in 1825. After the Rosanna voyage he settled in Scotland: the Medical Directory1859 lists an Arthur Hay at Drum, Auchindoir, Aberdeenshire. In 1867 he was ParochialMedical Officer, still at Drum, Auchindoir, Lumsden. The Census of 1861 shows Arthur Haywas born in Aberdeen.

The Old Parish Register Index for Aberdeenshire reveals that Arthur, son of ArthurHay and Elizabeth Milne, was baptised on 4 June 1802 at St Nicholas Church, Aberdeen.Younger children of Arthur and Elizabeth were also baptised in the same Aberdeen church ofSt Nicholas: Elizabeth (December 1804), Andrew (July 1807) and Helen (August 1809).Arthur Hay senior and Elizabeth Milne were married on 29 April 1800 at Banchory Devenick,Kincardine.

Living at Drum, Auchindoir in 1861, according to the Census, were Arthur Hay, 58,head of the household, medical practitioner; his wife Catherine, 55; stepsons Harry Smith, 33,ploughman; Peter Smith, 24, agricultural labourer, Samuel Smith, 22, student of divinity;stepdaughter Mary Smith, 21, employed in house services; and Arthur Hay’s own children:Catherine, 15, and Arthur,12, both at school. All the children were born at Auchindoir;Arthur’s wife Catherine at Kennetmont, Aberdeenshire. Also in the household was MaryCastles, 20, domestic servant.

Thomas Surfleet Kendall (born 1807), the interpreter on the Rosanna, was the eldest son ofthe New Zealand missionaries Thomas Kendall and his wife Jane Quickfall. Thomas Juniorwas born in London, though his parents were from Lincolnshire. In 1813 the Kendall familysailed on the convict transport Earl Spencer to New South Wales and in November 1814 leftfor New Zealand, leaving the daughters behind in Sydney. The next years were spent in theBay of Islands.

In 1822, the year his father was away with Captain Herd in the Hokianga, youngThomas Surfleet kept brief jottings in a diary. He was still in New Zealand in November 1823but soon after his father sent him to England to train as a carpenter. Early in 1825 the Kendallfamily left New Zealand to live in Valparaiso, where his father ministered to the Anglicancommunity. (A severe earthquake had occurred there in 1823). The Kendalls returned in 1827to New South Wales. Young Thomas rejoined his family, married and settled there. (A carte-

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de-visite portrait of Thomas Surfleet Kendall was in an album at Kendalldale, New SouthWales and was reproduced in Kissin’ cousins, by Marjorie Kendall 1989). His brother Basil’sson was the renowned Australian poet Henry Kendall (1839-1882), whose face was to appearon Australian postage stamps.

The assistant clerk on the Rosanna venture, James Sharp, has not been identified. Curiously,the business partner of Thomas Shepherd’s friend Alexander McLeay was London winemerchant William Sharp. McLeay named his eldest son William Sharp McLeay.

The Rosanna settlers were recruited byThomas Shepherd from town and country places inScotland though some, as we have seen, according to G.L. Pearce who wrote The Scots inNew Zealand (1976), were from Cumberland. This county of Cumberland is just south of theScottish border. Character references deposited with the New South Wales authorities byCaptain Herd show at least five of the settlers came from Fife:

Captain Herd presents respectful compliments to Alexander McLeay Esquire,Colonial Secretary, and agreeably to his promise encloses a list of Mechanics Ec,employed by the New Zealand Company, with their Salaries. Those marked in red Ink,embarked in the concern at low Salaries in the hopes of future promotion, if theUndertaking succeded…

Captain H[erd] also encloses a few of their characters, from Scotland, theremainder were left with the directors.

Rosanna, Sydney Cove11 February, 1827

(AONSW)

Between June and July 1825 Thomas Shepherd must have travelled round parishes inFife close to his place of birth: Auchtermuchty, Kettle, St Andrews, Cameron and Carnbee,selecting men for the New Zealand Company venture. Several character references which alsoeneded up at the Archives Office of New South Wales must have been written as a result ofthe selection process:

Manse of Cameron, June 18, 1825This is to certify that William Oliphant during his residence in this parish has behavedin a most appropriate and becoming manner, and to my knowledge has no stainwhatever attached to his moral character.

SignedThos. Adamson

Minister

*Carnbee-23d June 1825

That the bearer George Tod, who has resided in this parish of Carnbee & County ofFife, for many years – is a very expert and faithful workman as a Labourer, & canperform every kind of work of that kind to the satisfaction of his Employers is attestedby

David Wilson Factor for Sir Ralph Ambruther Bart

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Robert Scott Farmer OverseerAndw Mackie Farmer

in Balgownie

*This is to certify that the bearer Andrew Thomson has served me in the years 182[3?]& 1824 during which periods he has served me Honestly and industriously and has[?] knowledge of his [trade] as a blacksmith

June 1825 Atsted John Campbell

*This is to certify that Benjamin Nisbet has served em as a Journey man joiner for twoyears and a half faithfully and honestly he was always steady in minding his businesshe is a good tradesman

Peter White Ballgow[nie] July 8 –1825

The age of some of those on board the Rosanna (those who finally settled in Australia)can be calculated from the New South Wales Census of November 1828. Thus, when theRosanna was sixty days out from London, Thomas Shepherd would have been 45, his wifeJane, 23, their little son Thomas William just one year old; Of the two older Shepherdchildren John would have been 12, his sister Elizabeth, 10; Young Thomas Surfleet Kendallwas 18. John Durie, 20, George Tod, 27, and John Tod, 19; Shepherd’s brother-in-law RobertBell was 27, his wife, 24; Samuel Sydenham was 29, his wife Louisa, 23.

From their ages in the 1828 Census three children: David Shepherd, James Bell andCharles Sydenham, must have been born on the Rosanna voyage. By November 1828 theseboys were two years of age.

The first mate on the Rosanna, William Greer, had already sailed with Captain Herd onthe Providence voyage. Of Captain Barnett, master of the storeship Lambton, nothing has sofar been discovered. The names of the crew of the Rosanna and the Lambton are unknown.

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6 The David Wilkie connection

When Thomas Shepherd died in Sydney in 1835 his obituary in the Sydney Herald gaveprominence to the fact that Shepherd “had been a school-fellow of the celebrated painterDavid Wilkie.” This artist, of Scottish origin but London-based, was one of the leadingpainters of his time and originally became famous for his homely scenes of Scottish villagelife. He also produced large scale historical paintings as well as portraits. Wilkie waseventually to succede Sir Thomas Lawrence as Painter in Ordinary to the King and towardsthe end of his life was knighted. The British in India had Wilkie prints on their walls.

Artist David Wilkie (1785-1841) came from the same area in Scotland as ThomasShepherd. A memorial commemmorating David Wilkie was in the churchyard at Cults, Fife,where Thomas Shepherd was baptised. The painter was born in the manse at Cults to Rev.David Wilkie, then the minister of Cults, and his third wife Isobel Lister of Pitlessie. ThomasShepherd’s parents had been married by the artist’s father.

Everything points to David Wilkie having been keenly interested in the New ZealandCompany venture. By the time the Rosanna settlers left London Wilkie was King’s Limnerfor Scotland. The scenes of his youth which Wilkie recreated in his paintings were of just thatarea where a number of the Rosanna settlerswere drawn from.

Young Wilkie attended the parish school at Pitlessie, then in 1797 went to the grammarschool at Kettle. He afterwards spent a year at the academy in the town of Cupar, the ancientcapital of the Kingdom of Fife. Cupar was only four miles from Cults. He then continued hiseducation in Edinburgh. His father had also received a university education.

David Wilkie first made a name for himself with The Country Fair. The picture waslater renamed Pitlessie Fair (1804). Pitlessie village was about a mile west of Cults. EarlyWilkie sketches also included Crawford Lodge and Pitlessie Mill.

In May 1805 Wilkie went to London and soon afterwards rose to fame. His talent wasimmediately recognised by patron of the arts Sir George Beaumont and was nurtured by him.Beaumont was a former member of the Society of Dilettanti, a dining society which SirJoseph Banks also belonged to. On the literary side Beaumont had also begun to supportColeridge and Wordsworth. Beaumont was to become a founder of the National Gallery. LordCrawford also took an interest in the young Wilkie’s artistic career.

Wilkie’s work was to include other evocatively named paintings in the same genre asPitlessie Fair: The Village Recruit, The Blind Fiddler, Rent Day, Blindman’s Buff, The RichRelation, The Letter of Introduction, The Penny Wedding, The Reading of a Will, GraceBefore Meat, and The Rabbit on the Wall.

While studying at the Royal Academy Wilkie became friends with Benjamin RobertHaydon, who was eventually to create such historical paintings such as The Reform banquetof 1832 and the Meeting of the Anti-Slavery Society in 1840. It was Wilkie who took Haydon

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to see the so-called “Elgin Marbles,” newly removed from the Parthenon in Greece byThomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin, and shipped to London. Elgin was a leading landowner ofFife. His son James, who became the eighth Earl, later married Mary Louisa Lambton (1819?-1898), daughter of the New Zealand Company director. James and Mary Louisa Elgin were tobecome the vice regal couple in Canada and James was destined to be British Consul in Chinaand subsequently Vice-Roy of India.

David Wilkie was sketched in 1816 by Haydon and the sketch was later in the NationalPortrait Gallery. In London Haydon had a number of literary acquaintances, among them thepoet John Keats, whose close friend Charles Armitage Brown emigrated in 1841 to NewZealand with his son Carlino. A poet friend of Keats was George Felton Mathew. George’ssister Sarah Louisa went to Sydney in January 1832 to marry her cousin, Felton Mathew, asurveyor. Felton Mathew came over to New Zealand in 1840 as acting Surveyor-General.

In April 1809 David Wilkie, then still a raw Scotsman, met William Westall, the artist onFlinders’ expedition to Australia. Richard Westall, a brother of William, was also a painterand prolific draughtsman (Royal Academy 1794) and a close friend of Sir Thomas Lawrence.He had lodged for a time at 57 Greek Street, where Lawrence lived with his parents.

In 1813 David Wilkie’s father died. He had been for over thirty years minister atCults. Wilkie’s mother and sister came to live with the artist in London. Wilkie now visitedSir Walter Scott in Scotland and through him met the Scottish poet James Hogg, called theEttrick Shepherd.

The writer John Galt (1779-1839) was another of Wilkie’s London friends. He left Scotlandfor London in 1804 and soon met up with Wilkie. It was to Wilkie that Galt showed hismanuscript The annals of the parish (1821). Galt’s novel The member (1832) was all about aman who goes abroad and returns home wealthy after a year in the East India Company andbecomes a politician. Other Galt novels included The Provost and The Entail.

In 1824 a Canada Company was formed with John Galt as secretary. In January 1825Galt sailed for Canada with other commissioners of the Company, returning in June of thatyear. In October 1826 Galt again sailed to Canada for the Company as Superintendent ofUpper Canada. In 1829 he was recalled to England.

In the northern autumn of 1818 Lady Blessington (1789-1849) opened her London salon at 11St James’s Square. A visitor’s book shows that the salon was frequented by politicians, artistsand writers, including Lambton’s father-in-law Earl Grey, Henry Brougham, Sir ThomasLawrence, David Wilkie and the art teacher John Varley; as well as John Galt.

In 1825 Sir Thomas Lawrence painted and exhibited Master Lambton, a portrait of J.G. Lambton’s little son afterwards known as “The Red Boy.” Over time Lawrence had paintedthree generations of the Lambton family. That year, as we have seen, he also paintedAlexander McLeay.

David Wilkie’s career followed somewhat in the footsteps of an earlier Scottishpainter Allan Ramsay, whose second wife Margaret Lindsay had been a kinswoman of theEarl of Balcarres. Ramsay became painter in Ordinary to George III. David Wilkie was topaint George IV (in Highland dress), and William IV. He also painted Daniel O’Connell, theIrish ‘Liberator.’

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In 1822 George IV visited Edinburgh, the first reigning monarch to visit Scotland inmore than a century. To commemmorate the event Wilkie produced The King enteringHolyrood Palace. Another of his historical pictures, The Chelsea pensioners reading TheWaterloo Gazette, won great acclaim.

Towards the end of 1824 David Wilkie was again in Scotland and visited his nativeFife. At Cupar the provost and other dignitaries invited him to a public dinner. On 2 October1824 Wilkie wrote to his sister:

I dined the other day at the Presbytery dinner in Cupar, where I again met some ofour oldest friends Dr Martin, Dr Barclay, Dr Adamson, Mr Gillespie… Dr Campbell.

And on 14 October 1824:The house reminds me much of the old Crawford Lodge, but it is much larger…Ourdinner at Cupar appeared to give great satisfaction to all present.

But distressing news awaited Wilkie. On his return to London late in 1824 he found hismother had died the day before. Two of his brothers died before the year was out. On 25January 1825 news reached him of the death of his brother John in India the previous August,leaving a wife and six children. He had gone out to Bengal and spent 20 years in India in theservice of the East India Company. His brother James came back from Canada in 1824 withruined prospects and shattered health and died before the end of the year.

In July 1825, at the time the New Zealand Company were making preparations for theRosanna voyage, David Wilkie, seized with symptoms of paralysis, left England with hiscousin David Lister for a lengthy stay in Europe.

A further connection has emerged between David Wilkie and New Zealand. The Londonartist Frederick Wilkie, another relative of David Wilkie, had a daughter Caroline. In the1850s Caroline Wilkie (1832?-1917) went out to Melbourne with her mother to marry theartist Nicholas Chevalier. In Melbourne the Chevaliers were friendly with the painterGeorgiana McCrae, who had studied art in London with John Varley. In 1820 Georgiana’sfuture brother-in-law Alexander McCrae had visited New Zealand with the Navy.

In 1866 Caroline Chevalier left Melbourne to join her husband in New Zealand. Shewrote a graphic account of their journey on horseback through the Otira Gorge to Hokitika.The couple were later in Madeira. It was Caroline who arranged the collection andpreservation of her husband’s papers in the National Art Gallery of New Zealand.

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7 The Rosanna voyage

When the New Zealand Company’s stores were about to be sold, an advertisement was placedin the Sydney Gazette of 6 March 1827. This showed the kind of equipment the Rosannasettlers brought with them to New Zealand:

John Paul begs leave to inform his Friends and the Public, that he has purchased thewhole of the Implements imported by the Directors of the New Zealand Company;also, a large Bell, Blacksmiths’ Forges, all kinds of Kitchen Utensils, Cutlery,Turner’s Lath[e]s, Corn Mills, ec, ec.

*COOKING UTENSILS BLACKSMITHS’ TOOLSFrying pans, pewter plates Forge with bellows completeSaucepans, bottles Anvils, two vicesStewpans, Dutch ovens Files of all kindsCamp ovens and covers Soldering ironsMustard pots, salt cellars Drawing knivesTable and tea spoons Sledge hammersBath bricks – Blackheath Brass for brazingIron boilers, candlesticks Srew plates, hand dittoDrinking pots Stocks and diesTinder boxes, &c. Frame saws, iron bracesTin dish covers Drill bows, do. Boxes, &c, &cBlack tin soup tureens COOPERS’ TOOLSCarpenters & joiners tools Howels, adzes, axesHand and sash saws Drawing, beading, andPlanes, rules hollowing knivesSquares, chisels Round shaves, &c, &cPadlocks, locks, &c, &c Shovels, spadesMASONS TOOLS Hoes of all kindsTrowels, pickaxes Nails of all sizesHammers, picks Corn millsSquares, levels Scales and weightsMullets GrindstonesSHIPWRIGHTS’ TOOLS Portable crane completeShip axes, adzes Pit and cross cut sawsPin and top mauls HarpoonsAugers, gouges A large bell completePlanes, gimlets Boilers, &c. completeCompasses, &c, &c, &c

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Again on 10 March 1827:

FOR SALE, the undermentioned GOODS, imported on the New Zealand Company’sShip Rosanna, Captain HERD:-Garden and agricultural seedsFlax hacklesShag and roll tobaccoBlanketsRed baizeDruggettDiapers assortedEarthenware and glassCartridge paperSlops, of every descriptionFlints, double gun, musket, carbine, and pistolArms of every descriptionLeatherGunpowderWindow glassLead and lead pipeIron and SteelNetting chainShirting, calicoes, and printsSoapCasksFlax machineryNautical instrumentsBooksA semi nettRocket guns, &c.To be inspected at Mrs. REIBBY’S Stores, George-street, near the King’s Wharf.JONES AND WALKER

The barque Rosanna, 25 tons, built at Stockton in 1823 was registered at the port of Dundeein the name of G. Lyall. The Lambton, a schooner of 61 tons, was built at Cowes, Isle ofWight, in 1825 for the New Zealand Company.

The Rosanna (Captain Herd) left London on 27 August 1825 for “New South Wales,Ec.” The Rosanna arrived at the Downs on 30 August and left the same day. It arrived atTorbay on 5 September and was presumed to have left on 13 Septamber. According to Lloydsshipping register the Lambton left Cowes on 2 Spetember for the same destination.

On the long voyage to New Zealand the Rosanna is known to have touched at Tristanda Cunha. When the ship reached the Snares, the landmark islands to the south-west of NewZealand, the women as well as the men went ashore.

The arrival of the Rosanna settlers in New Zealand was eventually relayed elsewhere.The Hobart Town Gazette 10 June 1826 reported in its shipping news:

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Captain Lovitt of the schooner Sally brings intelligence that the ship Rosanna,Captain Herd (who had navigated the ship Providence now in the harbour on herformer voyage to this Colony), and a cutter, had arrived with settlers on account ofthe new Company which has obtained a charter to settle in New Zealand. Both vesselswere provided with arms, and intended to cruise, for the protection of the settlers, andto fish, for the space of three years.Captain Stewart, of the ship Prince of Denmark, had also arrived from England, andhad commenced his settlement on his own or Stewart’s island.When the Sally left Stewart Island the schooner Alligator, (Captn Fairlie) sailed forEasy bay on the south coast, and the Samuel (Captn Drysdale), had just arrived fromthe Auckland Islands. The Elizabeth and Mary (Captain Worth) had sailed for Sydneyand the Elizabeth (Captain Kent) was setting sail for Chatham Island.

The Sally left New Zealand for Hobart Town on 9 May 1826.They had lost a boat crew atMacquaire Island early in their voyage. One of the crew of the Sally who returned to HobartTown with Captain Lovitt was Edwin Palmer (born 1804). As an old man he and his brotherWilliam spoke in 1879 to Dr Thomas Hocken about the Sally voyage and Dr Hocken madehurried notes:

…to Queen Charlotte’s Sound. Beginning of Feb/26. Rauperaha came out with canoeslocally manned with natives who had come across from Kapiti to war with Southnatives…Then came down south…Pegasus Bay in Stewarts Island – there foundEnglish ship (‘Rosetta” King Capt. I think) with a cutter tender with emigrants boundfor the Thames. Also another (Stewart Captain) belonging to – which had come fromBay of Islands with Maoris and woodworkers to build a vessel (60 tons, JosephWeller, after Mr W. of Otago) which was well got on with. ‘Rosetta’ called in at Otagoon way to Thames but found natives so numerous that they were frightened to land –though I believe a few did – so they went to S. [Sydney] Australia.

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Thomas Shepherd’s Journal

On board the Rosanna while on the coast of New Zealand Thomas Shepherd kept a journal.He made day to day entries from their day of arrival in New Zealand in March 1826 until 1June 1826, when they left Wanganui a Tara. When they reached the Bay of Islands he made asummary report on places they had visited. He also wrote notes on the ir visit to White Island.The 36 page manuscript of the journal is held in the Mitchell Library, State Library of NewSouth Wales, Sydney.

The following transcription of Thomas Shepherd’s journal was made by HildaMcDonnell. The pages of the manuscript have been numbered. Punctuation has beenmodernised and some new paragraphs created. Spelling has mainly been left in the original.

[1]

New ZealandStewarts Island

On Sunday 5th March 1826, at approaching the Island for Pegasus Harbourabout 6 miles distant on the south-east side, a great variety of hills appeared in view,some of which formed an agreeable background, and looked full of luxuriantvegetation, except a few of a rocky appearance.

A few rocks of a whitish and red colour above the waters edge bordered thebeach with low grounds between them at iregular distances. I admired the appearanceof this part of the country.

The entrance to the harbour rather barron, the low grounds being rocky: butthe uphill lands very much covered with Trees and Shrubs of various coloured greensintermixed with a few dead Stems here and there. The scene looked very romantic.After having entered the harbour, I was struck with astonishment at its beautifulappearance; extending from North to South in a serpentine form several miles inlength and from a quarter to two miles in weadth, bordered on each side by slopinghills covered with fine trees of various kinds. – A little further up the harbour theviews are exceedingly rich. Near the waters edge are rocks so placed by nature as ifthey had been done by men of superior taste, with many curious creeping plantsgrowing carelessly between them. Birds were flying about and made a noise. Newvarieties opened to view every few yards as we advanced. About three miles within themouth of the harbour were several small rocky Islands ornamented with handsomeShrubs. They were placed near a sandy beach, where the report of a gun was heardand a person seen walking there, which rather surprised us, as we did not expect tofind any person up on the Island. A little further up the harbour, where we droped theanchors, three points of land and distant hills

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[2]of singular figured shapes opened to view. We were now shut in from the sight of thesea, and safely anchored in a spacious harbour, in every respect in appearance like anoble river, and sarounded on all sides by sloping hills of moderate height, richlyornamented by a great variety of handsome growing trees and shrubs, all of whichhave been planted by the hand of Nature.Having been so long upon the sea I enjoyed the change more than I ever did any thingin my life. The scene to me was enchanting. I went on shore to examine the naturalproductions, quality of the land, &c. On landing I saw the man which was seenwalking on the beach and who fired the gun, and was informed by him that no lessthan thirteen of his party were in the neighbourhood a sealing for a Gentleman atCidny [Sydney].

I went into the woods with anxious curiosity to look at a Nation of trees andplants which I had not seen before. Indeed they were nearly all strangers, for with theexception of about a dozen, all were unknown to me. I was highly gratified, fornumbers of them were very beautiful in their habit of growth, shape and colour offolliage. As I shall if possible give a description of every tree and plant of any valuewhich I may find growing upon this Islands in a place by themselves I shall only noticeat present a few such as are striking objects in the general feature of the country.

Some of the timber trees are of large growth, particularly three sorts; th first isof the pine tribe and is known by the name of Pimise (Pinus?) in 3 varieties in thenorth. The second is something like the lucombs Oack, and the third is called the RedGum or Eucalipticus; I have seen it in England.. All the other varietys of trees which Isaw can scarcely be called timber trees, as very few measure a foot in diameter, butthey form an agreeable contrast amongst the other trees. The three varieties of Pineare very tall and handsome, and one in appearance like the Lucombe oak grows tallbut not so straight; the Eucalipticus grows to a great thickeness in the stem andfrequently not less than fifteen feet in girt but not more than 15 or 20 feet in hightbefore it spreads its large branches in every direction; a number of very large trees ofthis kind had fallen down either by high winds or a natural decay; trees of a differentkind had grown to a considerable size out of their decayed trunks.

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[3]Several sorts of creepers grow to a hight in festoons from tree to tree. The Tree Fernis a very striking object in the woods; it grows from 20 to 40 feet in hight and fromfour to eight inches diameter in its stem, whch is of a spongy, brittle nature. A greatvariety of other ferns, Flax plants, tufts of grass &c are growing in and round theoutsides of the woods.

Little natural hills were covered with a profusion of trees in such tastefulconfusion, excelled everything of the kind I had previously seen. Deep glens fel fromthe high ground and are ful of majestick trees. Seals of the Hair kind are numeroushere. I have seen some of them. The Furr seals are here also but not so plentiful as theother; I have not as yet seen any of them. The Hare seal is a singular looking animalof a brownish colour. His head is something like the head of a large bull dog withbristals like a cats and round his nose but much stronger and longer, its body as largeas a middle sized calf; tapers gradually towards his hinder flippers, has very strongfore flippers which he makes use of as feet when on land and as fins when in thewater; He can ascend the highest hills where he makes tracks some thing like humanfoot paths from the water through the woods to the top of the highest hills to thedistance of miles; on the hills they whelp and suckle their young and when the youngones grow strong they bring them by degrees from the hills to the shallow water andwhen nearly full grown takes them off to sea from whence they return in the properSeason. (The furr Seal does not frequent the woods but breeds about the rocks.)

When a Man approaches towards them they stand upright upon their hinderflippers and at this time they have not a very friendly appearance; a Sharp blow with aclub upon their nose generally kills or stuns them but if upon their head the placegenerally swells: when this is the case it will take many hard blows before they willdie. The male generally called the Sea Lion grows much larger and of a darker colourthan the female. They live principally upon fish.

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[4]The land in this place is of a spongy nature, being generally composed of

decayed timber and vegetable substances; may be cultivated but at a great expenseowing to so much wood upon it. Here the silvery water adds greatly to the beauty ofthe woods; here are many fine coves. Captn. Bell, one of our party, made an excurtiona few miles further up this delightful harbour; gives a good account of what he hasseen. He shot several ducks, Red bills, a wood hen and killed a Hare Seal. The settlerswere all sent on Shore for the benefit of their health. I had found a few seeds but veryfew are ripe. Cockles, Mussels & oisters are plentiful and excellent.

Monday 6th March.had this day been exploring part of this beautful and extensive harbour; in it

may be found good anchorage and room for all the ships in the British dominions, finesandy beaches at the extremity of convenient coves for collecting timber, landing withboats &c. At all places we have been at as yet nothing has been seen but a profusionof exquisitely beautiful trees and shrubs. Tall trees towering by the sides of the littlehills, the stems of which are scarcely seen, being hid by underwood of the richestvariety; the different sorts were seen to advantage a considerable way into the interiorof the woods, having many openings; in the front ground Intricacys are numerious andvarious. – We saw a cascade more beautiful than can well be described. The waterfallwas about 30 feet in weadth: falls down a perpendicular rock of 15 or 20 feet in hightbehind another perpendicular rock 5 to 7 feet in hight, 10 feet distant and from thefront of the fissure about 20, where it is concealed from the view except at the oneplace near the centre of the rock about 6 or 7 feet wide, where it rushes out and runsdown another shelving rock about 50 feet into a smooth and deep water at the head ofa beautiful cove. The Cascade is supplied by a small river or brook which comesthrough a wood in a deep glen. The Cascade on each side is overhung with beautiful

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[5]Weeping trees and rugged singular shaped rocks. The deepness of the glen, loftyweeping trees and the Noises of the water rushing down the rocks into smooth, clear,still water might well be called amongst landscape painters in the style sublime.

This river is well situate for the erection of mills. – I walked by the side of itabout a mile; the ground bordering upon its banks is rather marshy but capable ofproducing vegetables of most kinds were it cultivated. At present it is entirely coveredwith wood. The bottom of this extensive harbour is either a solid rock, Sand or gravel.The rocks are either a strong granate, granate and free stone mixed in one body andentire free stone of good quallity and a kind of rocky sand mixed with small metalicparticles of a yellowish gold colour. Some of the beaches are covered with a fine whitesand, others with yellow sand but loose rocky stones are more common. -The surf onthe beaches next the Sea runs very high and are very dangerous for boats.

Tuesday, 7th MarchOn this day I saw Albians Cove, about three or four miles South west from the ship; atthe extremity of the left branch was a brook or stream of water, sufficient to makeseveral Mills go. A great number of fine trees were growing upon its banks: but owingto many large stones at the bottom of the brook it would be difficult to bring timberdown to the harbour. The hills were very steep on both sides of the brook. At theextremity of coast near where the brook emptys its water in Albion cove is aconvenient place for sawing timber, where there is a considerable quantity of finetrees growing.

Here were a Number of seal tracks which took a winding course up the hillsthrough the woods. There were less underwood here than I have seen in other placesin this neighbourhood. After returning from this brook I went down the next branch inAlbion cove about half a mile distant from the brook. The landscape scenery here wasenchanting. The trees here tutched the harbour waters and were in great variety, asclosely united together from the waters to the tops of the hills as the

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[6]head of a beautiful Oak or Elm. It is impossible to say too much in the praise of thisplace. The nearest discription I can give of its appearance althou only in minature iswhen a choice collection of thriving plants are well arranged upon the stage of agreen-house. There I fixed upon a place to cut down some timber trees.

Wednesday, 8th MarchI went from the ship with the Settlers to Albion Cove about 3 miles distant to

the place fixed upon yesterday to cut down timber trees. When we got there a fire waslighted in the wood on a flat piece of ground near the extremity of a little hill; theplace was sarounded by shadowy trees and trees whose stems were so bentdownwards that we made use of them for seats.

A Kettle was filled with water and hung upon a cross piece of wood which wasplaced upon two forked stakes, which were sunk into the ground for that purpose. Thewater was boiled and we made tea of which with bread and cheese we made a goodbreakfast. After breakfast all hands (except one, which was to perform the office ofcooke) proceeded immediately to cut down the timber and with the use of cross cutsaws and axes cut 5 trees before dinner. We next dined at the place where we hadbreakfast. The day was delightfully fine and every individual seemed to enjoy himselfperhaps more so than a party of Ladies and Gentlemen on a Gipsy party in England.

Thursday 9th MarchI this day returned to Albion cove, saw a large Hare Seal which was killed by one ofthe Settlers, and a Parot of a brownish colour and a white bird as large as a turky, asmall sort of brown teal duck, a large black and white Duck called Paradise, the Ducka Black bird called the organ bird, shags, a Black Robin with a white brest, a Greenbird about the size of a lark who sings a sweet note, a small green bird about the sizeof a linnet. Eleven timber trees were dragged out of the wood with blocks and tackleinto the water and made into

39

[7]a raft; it was afterwards brought to a beach near to the Ship to be turned into planks. Ihave seen a few new sorts of trees in this place. Two whaling boats full of menbelonging to Sidney came to the ship; they were a sealing party. Some of them wereEnglish, one Irish and one Black; the Black Man C. Herd shipped on board theRosanna.

Friday 10th March.This was a heavenly day, the air Mild, a gentle breeze and sunshine throughout.Captn. Herd and self explored two or three Miles of this extensive harbour. We sawtwo outlets from the harbour to the sea about half a mile distance from each other,one of them sufficiently large to admitt ships of any burthen, the other not so wide norits water so deep. The name of this part of the harbour is called Seal Cove. We saw agreat number of Creeks and little bays each side as we went along in the boat. Theharbour is of considerable weadth at this place and goes much farther south than SealCove. The landscape appearance of the country around this part of the harbour ismuch changed from what I have formerly seen. The trees does not look so luxuriantand healthy. Several barron hills towers above the lower wooded ones; two of themare of a Sugar loaf shape and had the appearance to be of white rocks covered inplaces with black earth. The country much more open than what we have formerlyseen. Many of the trees are upon the decay and looks as if the Sea breezes had blastedthem.

The harbour here is bordered by large rocks or from five, ten, fifteen andtwenty feet high above the level of the water and are much overhanged by weepingtrees and flax plants. We found several new species of trees, Shrubs and Perrenniels.The fresh water in this neighbourhood is good; but a bad colour, occassioned by itssizzing [?] through the ground in the woods, which is generally composed of rottenwood and decayed vegitables. We saw no level land, the ground being generally hilly;deep glens and ravines similar to those already described. Several small Islands aresituate about this part of the harbour.

Saturday, 11th March

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[8]We, Capt Herd (Captn Barnett Mr. Lechmere Mr. Hay & Mr Kendal) and

good self, had an excursion to Seal Cove and some of the adjacent coves and creeksfor the purpose of finding out spars, being previouslyinformed they grew there, but wewere disappointed. Some spars were to be found but none sufficiently large for Masts.At several places I took sketches with the pencil of the landscape appearance of thecountry (for the purpose of conveying a better idea of it than by writing). A Saw pithad been erected on shore near the ship; a Blacksmiths forge and cooking machinewas placed near it. Have a piece of ground dug in the wood for Mustard and Cress;the ground was good but wet and spongy.

Sunday 12th MarchThis was a dilightful morning, everything looked fresh after a gentle shower of rain. AParrot was shot; the bird was a dingy brown colour with a greenish cast on the upperside of his wings, the under side of a deep red on the part next his body and towardsthe Middle of the wing to its point a red tinged with brown; the bill very much hooked;a deep crison between the legs and under the tail and round the thiis [thighs] a blueishwhite upon the head; is about the size of a raven.

Five boats crews came to the Ship and wanted provisions, said they had nothad anything to eat for twelve weeks except what they found about the Island; Theysaid they belonged to Captn Worth of Sidney and were employed by him at catchingseals and had run out of provisions owing [to] the Vessel not having come at theappointed time. They were not supplied, knowing they could find plenty of fish andpotatoes upon the Island and because the payment was uncertain. -Some Greens werefound by some of our people, was cooked and were very tender. I suppose they hadbeen sown or planted, as it does not appear they are natural productions.

The hills in this part of the country are very various in their hight and size. Thesmall ones from one to two hundered feet in hight, generally not more than four or fivehundred feet in length and from two to four hundered feet in weadth, rising in themiddle like a ridge of a house and falling each way to angular points divided by glens,ravins, brooks, inlets, coves &c. The large hills rise from 500 to 2000 feet in hight tofrom one to two, three or four miles in length and one or two miles in weadth

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[9]divided in the same manner as the small hills by glens &c but differs from the smallhills by being more rocky and barron at their extremities and less wooded andfrequently small hills and indents are upon their sides.

Monday 13th MarchTen Men wa[s] sent on Shore to watch the tools, linnen &c as a Number of suspiciouscharacters were in the neighbourhood a Sealing.

Tuesday, 14 March.Ten men was sent on Shore to watch for the same purpose as yesterday. The toolswere brought on board to save the trouble and loss of time watching. We had a supplyof very good potatoes from some of the men who were in want of provisions. Theywere now supplied with such articles as they wanted to the amounts of the value of thepotatoes, half were black and the other half white. This place is much infested with asmall fly. Its bite causes a great itchyness and the place bit swells into little bumps. Itis generally most troublesome of the back of the hands. There are also some large flyswhich are very disagreeable in their breeding Maggots upon blankets or any kind ofwoolen cloth; they also dirty linen while it is drying. Have seen a very curious dragonfly of a greenish colour, not very large, and a kind of caterpillar four or five incheslong of a brownish colour.

Wednesday 15th MarchThe tools were all brought on board from the shore. No watch there.

Thursday 16th March.No remarks.

Friday 17th March.No remarks.

Saturday 18th MarchHad an excursion with Captns Herd and Bell into the woods bearing from the ship

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[10]South West about a mile distant in search of Spars and found a valey of no greatextent where one here and there were growing…sufficiently large for small sizedMasts and some excellent timber for planks, Knees (?) for ships &c. The ground inthis Valey is very good in quallity and would make a fine garden, being well shelteredon all sides and a rivulet runs through it. We ascended a little hill where we had aview of part of the harbour and the sea. The wood at the top of the hill was veryScrubby, the cause of which we attributed to the sea breezes or to the land being moreshallow than lower down where the trees were more thriving. I found a very singulargrowing shrub when we were discending the hill; it had been broken down to theground and a young shoot about three feet in hight, of two or three years growth, hadsprung up again. It was quite streight. The leaves were nearly all at the top of theshoot and were a foot to 18 inches long and about a quarter of an inch in weadth, withindented edges and a whiteish strip down the centre on the upper side, and it grewhorosantle from on the stem. I found another stem near to it of the Anterrenium tribe;the bloom was white with a yellow eye and the leaves long,, narrow and pointed. Ithad a sweet smell. It grew to about 18 inches high and weeped. The folliage of plantshere are generally shiney like those from China.

A considerable quantity of the Phormium tenex grows here in various placesbut mostly in low Marshy ground. But it is reported here that it is a bastard kindcalled by them the wood flax and not fit to be manufactured into flax. However we aretrying experiements with it by bruising it in fluted rollers and by fermentation; wehave also tried the experiment of boiling it, to soften the leafe which it did, but injuredthe flax. The other experiments we have not prooved.

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[11]Sunday 19th March. No remarks.

Monday 20th March.I went to a flat piece of ground in a creek which branched off from seal Creek withTyoro [Taiaroa] a Chief, who resides on the northern side of the Island and who camewith some of the Sailors who are catching seals in a whale boat to see the ship and wefound a few acres of flax, the best I had seen but which he said was not a good sort,being what is called wood flax. He cut a bundle of it which we brought to the ship andhis wife dressed it. It appeared to us to be very good flax but shorter than on the otherIslands.

21[s]t March. No remarks.Wednesday 22d March.

Captains Herd and Bell, Self &c. went from the Ship Bearing South West about 4miles to a Hill which we called Observation Hill near the senter of the Island fromeast to west for the purpose of finding out its weadth, which we found by estimation tobe not more than 6 or 7 miles, and to examine the quality of the land, naturalproductions and general appearance &c.

We had a full view of both the eastern southern and western coasts and over aconsiderable extent of country toward the North. -As to the quality of the land, in myopinion some patches might be cultivated in the low grounds for grass and corn. Theland is of a marshy or boggy Nature and chiefly lays upon a rocky bottom whichwould scarcely pay for Cultivating were the same land in England owing to theunevenness of the surface. The uphill land is nearly all rocks with little mould inpatches upon them.

As to the natural productions into the interior the low grounds are full of brushwood, from 6 to 20 feet high, principally of the Tea tree or Diocema and nearly thesame sorts of trees which surround the harbour. The uphill land produces scarecelyanything but very dwarf Tea trees, shrub fern and a great quantity of a plantsomething like what we call in England Cats tail grass, which indicates the ground tobe inclined to wet. At least one third of the hills are entirely rock without any earthupon them whatever. And as to the general appearance of this part of the Island,except round the Harbour it is both rugged and steril. I have only seen two smallValleys which might be cultivated with the plough…the one is a flat which leads fromthe foot of this Hill to the western coast and another flat in a tract which leads fromSeal Creek on which the flax are growing, which I formerly described. These twotracts of land would not measure more than one hundred acres.

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[12]We saw hills at a great distance to the North which had also a very barronappearance.

Having now seen all the land in this neigbourhood or at least the principalpart of it I do not think it necessary to make many remarks in addition to those I havealready made as the advantage to be derived from this Island to the Company is of sovery little importance, excep for the harbour and for any necessary repairs whichships may require. It is certainly true that a considerable quantity of useful timber,some Flax, Seals and Fish may be had here but not a sufficiency to induce anycompany to form a Settlement. We are informed that it rains Nine Months out ofTwelve so that althou the ground were in good quality, is constantly as wet as asponge, which would be injurious to the growth of most kinds of Vegetables and werecorn to grow upon it would be impossible to harvest it.

It being so exceedingly wet here is no doubt the cause of so many trees lookinghealthy upon shallow land and also of trees growing out of the decayed trunks ofothers for if the country were moderatly dry, trees planted or sown on such situationscould not live, much less thrive. The climate is certainly very Mild and healthy. C. Bellhas been at the Northern side of the Island. Gives a better account of the land in thatneighbourhood and does not think they have so much rain. He saw a village built inthe New Zealand style and about 20 or thirty Natives, said they behave sivil to him.

Wednesday 23d March.We have here at present three chiefs whose names are Totay [Totai] chief of Ouie Totay is a very stout short ManTyroa [Taiaroa] chief of Otago about Five feet four inches highTewarra [Te Wera?] chief of Oldmans Bluff and well madeand about 25 years of age, his Face is Tatooed, has a very expressive countenance.Tyroa is more slender than Totay, is about Four feet seven, is also Tatooed, has alsoan expressive count[en]ance but not so manly; however he shews great injenuity inunderstanding and imitating us. He is about 27 or thirty years of age. Tewarra isabout 6 feet High very stout made is about 30 years of age.

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[13]Tatooed has very large full cheeks, lips near an inch thick and a large mouth and adowncast look, the uglist man I ever saw; 6 women are also here and several youngNatives, men and boys who have nothing very particular about them, only theircountenances are expressive of penitration and mostly looks cheerful. We have [had]several songs and rediculous dances performed by them but still with a kind of orderor Musical time particular to themselves, which shows they have some genius. TheirBaskets and Mats are particularly neat in the Manufacture. They are however verydirty in their persons. Their hair is course and of blackish brown colour, their eyesare very full, aquillan and rather inclined to flatness. The women were nearly nakedexcep their Mat which did not at times conceal their nakedness. The men were alldressed in Sailors clothing. They did not appear to be very particular in their food. Ihave seen them eat young Seal, dryed fish which had not been salted, Potatoes, Bisket,Salt Beef and Pork, rice &c. They preferred Sugar and water to any other drink. Theircommon drink is water.

Thursday 24th March.I had a long conversation with Tommy, an Englishman who says he was taken by theNatives when a boy about 16 years of age, since which he had married a chief’sdaughter and aftewards was made a chief himself. He is very much tattooed, isotherwise very fair, is very conversive. Some give him the character of being verytreacherous to his countrymen. He acknowledges being very expert in war, both withthe Gun, War Axe and Spear, says when the New Zealanders intend to atack a partytheir intentions are known to each other by the moovement of their eys. Before anatack all observe the principal chief and any proposal made to him by one party whichhe does not approve of he shuts his eyes: but if approved of he opens his eyes andlooks upwards. He says no European should be amongst them without a weapon ofdefence. That a gun was by far the best and should allways be in readiness and wouldin many instances prevent an attack by intimidating them. The Ship Tommy belongedto when he was taken was Sydney Cove. Tommy said it was next to impossible to atacka New Zealander with a sword Baynot as they have a method of pushing suchweapons aside by one hand and catching it with the other and generally kill theperson with a Maree [mere] or axe or spear before he has time to make a secondthrust.

Friday 25th March.In a long conversation with Tommy about the New Zealanders says they are quitesensible of good usage and have gratitude for kindness but they have a strongresentment against injuries. That the chiefs will not do any kind of labour. He says it isthe intrest of Europeans to notice the Chiefs by making them presents and keping themabout them.

That there was no necessity of applying to a chief for

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[14]any of their men to work as they would not interfere were Europeans to employ them.He said a new Zealand woman could dress 20 lb. of flax in one day, and that nativemen will do a great deal of work by paying them a reasonable price for it but I haveproved since that 5 or 6 lb. of flax is as much as a woman can do in any one day andthat the labour of a New Zealander can not be depended upon at any price. He said ifa single party of armed men were to go into the interior they would not be safe as thenatives would rush upon them with their spears after having received the first fire. Butif a party of a hundred soldiers were to go into the interior well-armed it is veryprobable that a large body of Natives would be very afraid to attack them.

The Native method of Dressing Flax.First choose the finest leaves of full growth, cut them and stripe about a

quarter of an inch wide and another length of leafe off the outer edges then strip thehard substance out of the centre of the leafe; when so done two flat pieces of the leafewill then remain. The upper or smooth shiny side is the side on which the flax grows;the side opposite to it should be cut across nearly through with a Mussel Shell or knifeabout nine inch from the upper point of the leafe. When so done place the mussel Shellwith the right hand exactly opposite the cut on the other side of the leafe and with theleft hand hold the end of the leafe and draw it, still holding the shell with the righthand, and the flax will entirely separate froom the leafe and when so done the flaxrequires nothing more to be done but to dry it until it is huckled.

Tommy said the growth of Potatoes were common all over New Zealand wherethere were any inhabitants. They have also Cabbage Carrots Turnips and wheat. Saidwhen they wished to clear a piece of ground 50 or a 100 natives would set to work andclear a large piece by entirely cutting down all trees and afterwards when they got dryset fire to them and then dig the ground and planted potatoes. He said the natives payvery little attention to any instructions which Europeans give them as they think theirown method of doing thing (much better) preferable.

He said Arms is the only sure Method of sivilizing them, that Missionarieswere of little or No use. He said they had some Idea of the being of a Good God and aBad One, that the bad God made them ill and the Good God made them well. Thattheir notion of sin was very limited, being chiefly in their breaking an oath, injuring achiefs Hut or entering upon tabooed ground, that they did not think it a sin to commitMurder nor in eating human flesh, that they eat all parts of the body but the internals.

They think when they die they will go below the earth and live there with theirwives and families. That some of them thought it a disgrace to die a natural Death andgave preference to die in wars.

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[15]They say a Man and a Woman went afishing without bait and the man gave his Nose ablow which made it bleed and instead of bait put the blood upon his fish hook andthrew it in the water and fished with it and brought up with his hook all the Islands ofNew Zealand. Tommy said an immense quantity of Flax grass and tall trees weregrowing upon the South east side of the middle Island and that the land there waslevel and mixed with sand and said that the interior of New Zealand was notinhabited.

I have seen two New Zealand Huts erected since we came here which were farinferior to the pig styes in England. They were made about 10 to 15 feet long, about 8feet broad; the sides and ends were made of the stems of three ferns place[d] closetogether upon the ground and met together at top in a sloaping direction near thecentre of the building about 8 or ten feet above the level of the ground against a rail,which was fixed upon three posts, a hole at one end which served both for door,window and chimney; the outside was thatched with fern leaves and Flax, the floorwas the natural earth with dry fern leaves put upon it; here they sleeped like a parcelof pigs and appeared to be very happy.

The Sailors here have a temporary dwelling by dragging their boats up uponthe beach out of the reach of the Tide and turned them Keel uppermost, laid a quantitydry fern under their boats, rolls themselves up in a blanket of New Zealand cackatooor Matt and sleeps upon the Fern.

Some of the New Zealanders here made a bed of dry fern under a projectingrock and another under the root of a large tree which had been blown down; theyinclosed the spaces which were too open except a hole to creep in at with stumps offerns, trees and bushes were they sleeped many nights.

April 18th 1826 Tuesday.Captn. Stewart has been on board the Rosanna three days. Is a stout good lookingman. Intertained us with a good many anecdotes and brought a young New Zealandwoman on board with him

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[16]dressed in the same manner as a European woman. She had been on board his vesselthe Prince of Denmark one year and as he said, she acted as steward. The Elizabethand Mary schooner (Captain Worth) arrived here this day. She belongs to MrUnderwood at Sydney.

I have this day found out by accident a water fal in a wood allmost at theupper end of Seal Creek on the right hand side of the creek, about a hundred yardsdistance from the creek. It runs down a shelving rock about 100 feet in length and 20in weadth then falls between two perpendicular rocks about 30 feet high. The tworocks were about 10 feet distant from each other and about 40 feet in length; after thewater fell between the two rocks it run at a right angle, it formed itself into a brookand run into the creek. I observed a substance in Seal Cove much like chalk, about 4feet thick.Saturday. -On the 27th April left Stewarts Island. We had a fine breeze, wind from thewest, the land towards the north side of Stewarts Island not so mountainous as theSouth but still continued very much broken.

Friday Apl 28 1826.I had a view of the south east side of the middle Island. The Hills were not very highbut are Mountanious and full of trees; also saw low land North of brind mans bluf.The rock appeared very high at some places along the beach and several headlandsjutted out in the Sea. The land much divided by glens d[itt]o. My view was severalmiles off the cost.

April 29th Saturday.At 7 in the Morning. A few gentilly swelling Hills bearing North with low groundsbetween them. In the evening course S.W. On the left about six miles I saw a small Bayand great variety of raising and falling ground and ascending Valey. At the extremityof the bay where most probably is a river the ground was nearly all covered withwood; high rocks at places bordered the beach with low grounds between them. ThisBay is at the entrance of Moleneaux’s Harbour where Towbucka a Chief lives. A firewas seen on Shore.- Totoy Chief of Oue lives a few miles south of this Bay.The entrance between the north and south sides of Muleneauxes harbour about 14miles in weadth and 10 miles up on the North side of the harbour, the land level with afew low hills. The entrance to Muleneaux’s Harbour between the North and southsides is about 14 miles in weadth and about ten mile up on the North side of theHarbour. The land is level with a few gently swelling Hills.

Sunday April 30th.In a large bay about ten miles north from Muleneaux’s harbour I had a view of

the surrounding country; about two miles

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[17]distant from the shore the country rises in gentle swells but were much divided withgullies in a number of fantastick shapes. At the top of one of those hills were twowoods of a darker green colour and the surrounding grounds was covered with fernsor something green. Had my orders been to go on shore I should have liked it muchbut this fell to the lot of Captain Bell who brought the following information: that thesurf was so high he could not land. He saw rocks, level rocks, the land with poorlooking ground between them which was covered with sturdy tea trees and coursegrass. The gullies were edged with perpendicular rocks from ten to 20 feet high withwater between them. He could not give any account further than near the beach. I sawa whale near the ship, also a number of cape pidgions. The beach which surroundsthis Bay is part white sand and partly perpendicular rocks.

Monday 1[s]t May.Went into a large Bay north from the Bay we came into yesterday and saw tworemarkable Sugar Loaf rocks in the Sea near the Shore about two feet high. Thecountry round this Bay is not very Mountanious but very much broken with ravins. C.Bell was sent ashore here, found several Natives, brought one on board whose namewas tatawa, a good looking man he said belonged to Otago. He also brought a fewflax leaves which I found to be a different variety from the flax we found at StewartsIsland.

No remarks on Tuesday 2d nor on Wednesday the third, the Ship at Sea.Thursday 4th May. The last two days we tried to get into Port Oxley Harbour

but could not for want of wind; we however succeeded in getting in this day, and muchto our satisfaction, for it is an exceedingly good Harbour, much enclosed on all sidesby sloping hills of various hights which prevented any winds from Injuring the Vessels.The hils were chiefly covered with trees excep near this, but some patches of fern.Potatoes, flax and grass were growing on the west side and a large level sandy pieceof ground of several hundred acres, which was covered with flax plants, grass, fernand low shrubs. On the east side of the harbour a low white sandy hill, covered inpatches with low shrubs. At the entrance of the Harbour on both sides, particularly onthe east lower part of the hills, are rocks near the beach of various height composed ofwhite, yellow, Black, purple and red colours.

We have at last seen about a 100 natives who came in their Canoes round theship and some came on board, but they were informed that no business could be donetoday as we did not inted to trade but if they came tomorrow we wold purch.[purchase] all the flax they had and Potatoes & Pigs as well. They went away andwhen they got on shore formed themselves into four distinct parties at 4 differentVillages which were placed near the beach and spent the remainder of the day as wesupposed in observing our Motions and consulting about trading with us. Orders werepublickly given by C. Herd to all persons on Board: first, that no person would beallowed to bring any Women on Board, Second, that No public quarrel should beallowed, third that no person should sell their cloths to the natives nor trade with themdirectly or indirectly without being liable to pay the same price for such goods as theymight want in future the retail price at Sydney. Fourthly, that the Settlers should watchin regular order with the sailors night and day so long as we remained in thisHarbour.

Friday 5th May had a considerable trade with the Natives, who dealtwith us fairly.

Saturday 6th May I have this day in company with C. Bell examinedPort Oxley Harbour to its utmost extent which

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[18]by estimation we suppose to be from about 10 to 12 miles in length bearing bycompass South by west from its entrance from the sea and from a quarter to half amile in Width, forming a narrow chanel all the way up of a serpentine direction, from5 to 7 fathoms deep and sufficiently wide for small Vessels; the other parts of theharbour are chiefly sand banks which are dry at low water but of sufficient debth forboats at high water. Similar to Pegasus Harbour Stewarts Island are sloping hills ofvarious hights and shapes and sizes on each side all the way up, highly ornamentedwith trees and shrubs, some of which are the same sorts as those at Stewarts Island,but a great many are very different. I saw many fine pine trees and these were muchinferior to the same kinds at Stewart Island.

In this harbour on each side are many creeks, rivulets, small bays and a brookof fine water. Up[o]n a small island about 4 miles up the Harbour I found in the spaceof a quarter of an hour growing upon a piece of land not more than 20 square yards,40 different shrubs; most of them were of neat growth. Some very handsome creepers.Some of the trees I had not seen at Stewarts Island are very beautiful but time wouldnot permit to take a description of any of them, being ordered not to go far into thewoods as it was uncertain where the natives might be conciled.

When we reached the utmost extent of the Harbour we were agreeablysurprised: instead of woods on each side as we had all the way up we saw a fine openCountry, chiefly covered with flax plants, Fern grass and a few small shrubs, whichmight be easily burnt down and made ready for the Plough. This land is of excellentquallity, being a rich deep brown Stround loam, capable of producing grass and cornin the greatest perfection. It is singular the appearance of the country should thuschange all at once from woods to open land which very much resembles some parts inEngland. There is a complete division between the open land and the woods, so muchso that the clumps of trees, Hills and woods are all formed by nature in curved,straight and circular lines; part of the open land is level in Valeys, some on gentledeclivities and some hilly. The extreme point of this harbour is near the sea and nearthe place where Captn Bell came on Shore the first of this month, so that the narrowNeck of land which divides the Sea from Port Oxley Harbour is allmost an Island. Thehills may be seen at a great distance, towering one above another, the last in a cloud.It is probable this situation will be made a desirable settlement at some future periodas there are plenty of Flax, Timber for building and firewood ec. And Plenty of fish &good land. We have seen a number of whales in the Harbour.- It was late before wegot to the Ship, the night was wet and I cought a severe cold. – The Natives had beentrading at the ship all day.

Sunday 7th May. Leaving the settlers exercise.Monday 8th about 200 natives are in this neighbourhood. The settlers has been onshore. No remarks of any importance until the eleventh Thursday the eleventh May,when we weighed anchors to go out of the Harbour, the Sails were set, it blowed afresh breeze which made the ship go fast and the whale boat not having been hoistedup was in danger of being swamped. Mr Greer the Mate went down in the boat toclear her from the ship; he had not been in her a minute before He and the boat bothwent down; he got hold of one of the oars and went about a mile before another boatcould be lowered to pick him up. He was much exasted, was pickt up and taken toCaptn Kents vessel which happened to be nearest to him and remained there a fewhours and then came back to the Rosanna; we remained in the harbour all that night.

Friday 12 May Set sail for Banks’ Peninsula. The country from PortOxley, the country to the distance of 30 or forty miles north of it, presents high

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iregular Hills in the back ground all covered with snow, Low Hills and Flat land inthe front ground. A large proportion of land looked as if fit for cultivation; was notmore at some places than two Miles from the shore. In some places the ground wasmuch cut up by ravines, some of the low grounds nearly level with the sea. At thedistance of 30 or 40 miles the country is quite low.

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[19]Saturday 13th May. Had a view of the country about 10 miles distance from the land;saw nothing but rugged mountains covered with snow. It is probable a considerablequantity of level land lays between the Mountains and the sea as had the Mountainsbeen near to the sea the lower part of them would not have had any snow upon them.

Sunday 14th. No remarks.Monday 15th. Got very near to Banks’ Peninsula and had a full view of the east

and northern sides. The east side is low rocky hills. The Northern side looks verypleasant. On shore saw a number of natives who made signs for us to come on shore.On a high piece of ground was a large Village containing a great number of people.The ground is about half wooded, which looked very healthy and half clear of wood,which looked much like our sheep Downs in England. Many curious spiral coniclesand perpendicular Rocks were near the beach & beautiful sloping banks at intervalsbetween them. We intended to have gone into the harbour here, which seemed to have a goodentrance at the South, but the wind proving contrary Captain Herd thought it woulddelay time and be of little benefit so continued our course for Cook Strait, with theIdea of viewing the coast as we went along. Two harbours are reported being on thenorthern side of the Peninsula.

Tuesday 16 May.We saw a mountain from 8 to 9 thousand feet high all covered with snow and almostperpendicular between Banks’s Peninsula and Lookers On. A large quantity of levelland lays between it and the sea and a number of small hills near these little hills. TheMountain divides and at this division is a deep Bay which we intended to enter but itbeing late in the evening Captn Herd was afraid to venture in it. It is probable a rivercomes from the Interior between the Mountains but we have been informed that noriver has been seen there. We saw natives here upon the flat ground who had huts andfires. Tacked and continued our course for Cooks Straits.

Wednesday 17th May.I had a very perfect view of a nother snowy Mountain nearly of the same hight as theone we saw yesterday about 20 miles North of it. It presented a very ruggedappearance, forming its slopes in many precipitous angular pointed broken hills insmall divisions from its top to base; looks inaccessible, very barron, only two patcheswooded. The Hills northwards are not high and has no snow upon them but they havea very uneven appearance. We saw the Northern Island from this place which wesupposed to be the entrance from the East side to Cooks Straits.

Thursday 18th May.We got in the mouth of Cooks Straits, saw Cape Campbell Cloudy Bay. Cape leadingto qwein Sanders Sound [Queen Charlotte Sound], the Snow mountains, CapePallisser, Cape Turnagain and Kanieroa ec., the wind not being fast.

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[20]To go into Cloudy Bay got near Wanga Nue Atra, saw the coast there and the openingto Wanga Nue harbour.

Friday evening 19th May. Anchored in Cloudy Bay after having had a view ofthe Straits and Surrounding co[a]sts; indeed New Zealand as far as have seen has agreat similarity of appearance.

Saturday 20 May. I had a View of the country ec. as pr sheet an[ne]xed.

[Upside down in original]

Monday 26 Feby 1827Mrs Taylor1 Pair Cotton Hose @ 3/------------------------------------- 31 Pair colourd d[itt]o 2/------------------------------------- 21 Pair Braces 1/6 1/6

Recd same time ₤ 6:6

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------Mrs Taylor10 [ ] Sarsenell 5/6--------------------------------------------5: 6

Recd on acct. ----------------------18/-1 Dressing Combe-----------------------------------------------------41 pair Stockins colourd 2/ pair1 Pair of Combes 3/ pairll side combs 2/6 each3 Pocket Handkerchiefs @1 1/2 yds Flannel @ 2/- pr yd.

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[21] [page torn in original] and the Natives has been

this day in their purchasing from us a few tools for Potatoes, Flax, Hogs, greens, Fish, ec.

Sunday 21[s]t May 1826.On the 19th of this month we arrived in Cloudy Bay and droped Anchor; it was in theevening. The next day 20th May had a view of the country which surround the bay; onone side bearing from the ship is a very extensive Valley with a large wood of very talltrees near its centre and a few clumps and single trees at various distances.This valey is surrounded on all sides except one with hills which have a very singularappearance, but all covered with verdure. A rocky headland is also on this side of theharbour. On another side bearing [ ] is high Mountains, some of which are full oftrees which looks very green but they looks as if they were cloathed with grass orsome other verdure. A considerable quantity of rocks here and there but principally atthe base of the mountains. By the waters edge the mountains are formed in deepcircular glens in places and conicle at their extrremities, some with high ridges anddeep ravines between.On the other side bearing [ ] is an excellent Harbour of sufficient length, weadth anddeepth of water for the ankrage of two or three hundred large ships, and a range ofHills which lead to Queen Charlots Sound of similar appearance to those abovedescribed. We entered this harbour on the 19th of the month and I have this day beenon shoar in company with C. Herd, C. Bell, ec, in the morning. We went to CabbageCove where we found a considerable quantity of that useful vegetable and wild celeryand a cress peculiar to New Zealand. We were informed by some of the natives thatthe celebrated C. Cook left the seed of the cabbage. We had a quantity cut andbrought them on board.

We found a great number of New Zealanders Huts which seemed deserted.They are miserable looking places, very low, in shape like the ridge of a house. Wefound a fine stream of water as clear as crystall. A great number of beautiful growingplants and trees were here, some of which I have seen at Port Oxly and StewartsIsland but a great many of them I had not seen before. Very fine timber trees of largegrowth are growing here but at a considerable distance by the side of the hill we saw[thus]

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[22]The land in this place a fine strong mellow loam of redish colour, a large quantity oflarger growth. We have seen no pine trees, at least they did not look at the distance wewere to be pine; we have seen some flax but does not abound here. Two woodpidgeons of beautiful colour were shot and a red bill; a considerable quantity of grasswas found here; we think this place would make a desirable situation for a settlementwere it connected with the Valley above described.After being here about two hours we returned to the ship, dined and after dinner wewent to the opposite side of the harbour where we found a number of Natives withwomen and children. They recd. us at first with a good deal of indifference, at leasttheir appearance was such; we had a good deal of conversation with them and gavethem a few trifling presents which made our company more agreeable. We did notdread any injury they would do to us as we were well armed and on our guard; theyhave a number of huts but very indifferently made. I saw some very long spears notless than 20 to 30 feet long, not very stout but very sharp. We saw a Maurii [mere] ora club made of a hard green stone which they fight with in war. It is about two feetlong with a round he[ad] at one end, the remainder about 2 ½ inches thick and 4 or 5inches broad, bedeviled off to a thin edge at each side. This weapon is heavy and veryeffective in giving a blow upon the head. We left this group of miserable lookingcreatures, and went on shoar to grass above. The land here is a black coloured mouldfull of excellent grass, a few shrubs growing in patches (we thought it about two acresof level ground). It is surrounded by a high hill nearly all covered with grass: this isthe best grass we have seen.

At the further end of this beautiful harbour is 3 large bays well sheltered fromall winds and richly ornamented by trees and shrubs, which are growing on theslopping banks of the hills which sarounds them. The water in those bays are from 3 to6 fathoms water. This harbour is at least 4 miles in debth, but we did not see anyquantity of level land near it. There are however plenty on the other side of the bay.

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[23]May 25 Thursday.

We left Wanganue Cloudy Bay (Crossed out in original: on Thursday the 25th of May)and got into the mouth of Wanga Nue Atra on the same evening where the shipunfortunately tutched upon a sunken rock: but we were of opinion she received noInjury. The entrance to Wanga Nue Atra harbour is not more than a mile wide but halfthat weadth; is full of rocks so that the entrance is rather dangerous, left side of theentrance are low rocky barron hills; on the right hand side are high barron rockyhills.

Friday 26th May.Entered Wanga Nue Harbour, which has two Islands near its centre, the one about amile in circumference and the other about a quarter of a mile. Its situation is goodbeing situated so near Cooks Straits, which gives an opening to the East and WestCosts. In company with Captn Herd &c. I went on shore on the left hand side abouttwo miles within the heads, at a Bay which has a good gravely Beach adjoining whichis a livel plane of from 50 to a 100 acres, in shape of a semicircle bordered by highland on one side and the beach on the other. This plain is of a light sandy earth exceptone place, where it is marshy. It produces a considerable quantity of flax plants,Eateable Fern, a few varieties of shrubs and other plants of no value. Great part of theFlax &c. in this plane has been lately burnt down.

We next walked about 2 miles round the beach without seeing anything whichdiffered much from what has been already described until we came to a small flatpiece of land at the bottom of a hill where we found some huts and a shadow bower oftrees where we found good spring water and plenty of cabbages. Here we had arefreshment, afterward ascended the Hill to take a View of the Surrounding country,which looked pleasant but of no great extent. Some of the hills looked barron, somecovered with Verdure and some full of trees. A Valey between this hill and anotherbearing south from it has an inlet from the sea and a Lake of fresh water in it andabout 100 acres of good marshy ground. Another Valey which winds through theMountains on the opposite side of the Harbour is full of trees and has two fresh waterrivers running through it.The land upon this Hill is a strong red clay and in many places naked rocks. Itproduces dwarf flax, tufts of grass and a few Shrubs and Ferns. We have seen a few ofthe natives who yet have been Sivil. They brought us a quantity of Crab Fruit whichwas very good. They said they had got 4 or 5 Baskets of Flax and Plenty of Potatoesbut no hogs & we caught several sorts of fish which were good. Have seen very fewbirds here.

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[24]

[In pencil]

Flax: produce 1 Tone 8 hundredweightflax dressed in the Native way whichproduced

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[25]

Northern Island New Zealand.Wanga Nue Atra.

June 1[s]t 1826. I have this day completed the Survey of the grounds which surroundthis Harbour in Comp[an]y with Captn Herd and Capt Bell. On the right hand side isa ridge of hills of various hights from 300 to 1000 feet with a number of Bays andinlets at their feet. Their natural productions are a Variety of Timber trees growingclose together in particular places of beautiful appearance and various sizes and atother places an appearance of Shrubs, tufts of wood, flax, grass and ec., with nakedrocks and baron ground. The greater part of a loamy nature.

At the Head of the Harbour on the right hand side is a Valey of large extentprobably 10 to 20 miles in debth and about 2 miles in weadth. About half a mile of thisvaley next to the harbour is light sandy earth and marshy or bogy ground with manylakes of water and brooks and two Rivers which pass through it to the interior of thecountry. Here are growing in perfection a large quantity of fine Flax from 8 to 10 feetin hight, a number of straggling shrubs, fern grass and tufts of wood flax. Afterpassing through this half Mile which fronts the harbour in going up the left branchriver about two miles is a rich loamy soil of a great depth of staple chufty, thicklycovered with beautiful trees and shrubs but no large timber. This river in most placesis sufficiently deep for boats but the way is obstructed at some places by trees whichhave come down with floods. We was informed by one of the natives that it would takeus three days to go to the extremity of this river and that we could find very large trees

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[26]trees in the interior. We saw two of the towtarra [totara] of large growth, from 3 to 4feet diameter, which had come down in a flood. The flood seems to rise very high attimes as we could see its marks upon the banks; we are of oppinion that this riverwould be found very serviceable in conveying timber from the woods to the harbour.

The mouth of this river is what may be called a barr, as the water does not risemore than 6 to 7 feet over it. The other river or rather a branch leading into the mouthof the former is not so large as the other. We went up about a mile and found sufficientdebth of water for the boats. The ground on its banks is covered with thick woods ofbeautiful sorts of trees & shrubs, many of which I have not seen before; but timewould not allow to take specimens of them. At the entrance of these rivers, the Natives have a few temporary huts where they arebuilding a small Canoe. Here we were kindly received by the chief, he rubed his noseupon ours and asked us to eat with him. Capn H. desired kindly to give his people twofish hooks each, which he did, and they seemed pleased with them. We enquired at thechiefs of which of the rivers was the largest and he informed us that the right hand onewas the largest, which however turned out to be the smallest. We could not accountfor his reason for attempting to deceive us.

He went with us up the left branch and when we returned neither he nor hispeople were so agreeable as before. He had a present for his trouble, and we left.

On the North side is Hills thickly covered with Trees and shrubs. The hills aresteep and dive in some places, with seaviews.

On the South west side is a valey of large extent, probably 500 acres. The landhere is various; light sandy loam, Marshy and the greatest proportion Good loamyearth with several brooks or rivulets. This is the most

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[27]preferable for a settlement as it is well sheltered by Hills, a good beach for near twomiles in front of us and the best part of this large harbour for Ships to lay anchor andthe greater variety of land and not likely to be inundated. This land in the marshy parthas excellent Flax in the light ground, grass, Fern, shrub; the best land is thicklycovered with threes and Shrubs of no great hight nor size. The south side is chieflyHilly excep a large Marsh, which I have described before.

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[28]A short description of the natural productions ec. which I found at the different

places we visited in New Zealand.At Stewarts Island is an excellent harbour, a sufficient quantity of timber for

common purposes (but no spars fit for large masts), a great variety of ornamentaltrees and shrubs, very little land fit for cultivation, about ten acres had it beenregularly planted of an inferior kind of flax, plenty free stone of good quallity, a fewhare and fur seals, good fish, Ducks and various other birds.

At Port Oxely is a good harbour, a considerable quantity of timber fit forcommon purposes (no spars fit for masts), a greater variety of ornamental trees andshrubs than at any other place in New Zealand, Flax of good quality, quantityunknown, as I did not see more than two acres had it been regularly planted, plenty ofgood potatoes, plenty of good fish, a few ducks, about one hundred natives, a numberof whales. At the head of the harbour about twelve miles from its mouth an extensivetrack of good land fit for cultivation.

At Cloudy Bay Wanga Nue is an excellent harbour, a considerable quantity oftimber fit for common purposes (no spars fit for masts), a great variety of ornamentaltrees and shrubs, a very little flax, good fish, wood pigeons and a variety of birds andabout thirty Natives. An extensive valley on the opposite side of the Bay about tenmiles distant appeared to be good for cultivation and was reported by the natives

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[29]to have plenty of flax growing upon it.

At Wanga Nue Atra Northern Island opposite Cloudy Bay is an excellentharbour, a considerable quantity of land fit for cultivation, about thirty acres had itbeen regularly planted of excellent flax, of which a large quantity had been burntdown, a considerable quantity of timber fit for common purposes, reported by theNatives to have large timber for common purposes, reported by Natives to have largetimber in the interior, a great variety of beautiful trees and shrubs (name of Coudy[kauri] hitherto unknown amongst the natives) which shows thus no coudy grownupon the [illegible]; two fresh water rivers fit for the navigation of boats two or threemiles up, good fish, ducks and a variety of other birds, and about forty or fifty Natives.

At Mercury Bay is a good harbour, several thousand acres of good land fit forcultivation, about twenty acres had it been regularly planted of good flax, a largequantity of Coudy and other sorts of timber fit for common purposes, and reported bythe Natives to have in the interior considerable large Coudy spars fit for Masts, butthe Natives being only thirty or forty in number, it was found impractable to get anybrought to the harbour, a good variety of ornamental trees and shrubs; two freshwater rivers and several brooks empty their waters here, a few potatoes of inferiorquality, a few pigs, good fish, a few quail, wood pigeons, ducks and other birds.

At the Firth of the River Thames are good harbours, on the west side of which(excep about ten miles) from its southern extremity as far as Bream-head is a finelevel country which extends many miles into the interior. I have seen several squaremiles of this land which was of the very best quallity; has little timber upon

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[30]it (being chiefly fern and brush wood) and only wants to be burnt down for theimmediate reception of the plough, five large rivers empty their waters here within thedistanceof twenty miles, two of which will admit ships of considerable burthen, theMugoy and Wytemata [Waitemata], in both of which are good harbours; those riversare said to go near to two rivers which empty their waters into the sea on the westerncost. The other three rivers, the Thames, the Peacko [Piako] and Wyroa [Wairoa] willadmit small vessels and boats several miles up; they come from the interior from theeast and south, all of which offers great advantages to a sivilized people were aregular goverment established. No part of New Zealand have we seen nor heard ofequel to this for a commercial settlement nor for agricultural purposes: but very littleCoudy fit for large masts and that little at a great distance from the harbour; very fewpeople live here: but great numbers not less than seven or eight hundred or athousand of very strong healthy looking men came to us from the interior. Some ofthem were very savage in their actions and appearance, had a large supply ofpotatoes which were not very good, a large quantity of pigs, the best pork I have evereaten, plenty of fine fish, ducks. Wood pigeons and other birds, a variety ofornamental trees and shrubs, some free stone which is rather soft.

Bay of IslandsRosanna T. Shepherd

12th Novr 1826

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[31][Page crossed out in original]

Port Oxley1826May 6. I have this day made an excursion up the harbour to its utmost extent, whichwe suppose to be from 10 to 12 miles in length, bearing by compass South by westfrom its entrance from the Sea and a quarter of a mile to half a mile in weadth, withmany inlets. A serpentine channel runs nearly the whole way up from 5 to 7 fathomssufficiently large for ships of considerable burthen. The other parts are chiefly sandbanks which are dry at low water but enough for boats at high water. Similar toStewarts Island are sloping hills of various sizes and shapes, on each side highlyornamented with trees and shrubs, some of which are of the same sorts as at StewartsIsland but a great many are very different in their kinds. I saw but very few pine treesand those few were not so good timber nor so free in growth as at S. Island.

I found a numerious variety of neat plants upon a small rocky Island, chieflyshrubs, which I found 40 different plants in a quarter of an hour growing in the spaceof 20 yds. At the extremity of the harbour the country is quite open, chiefly coveredwith flax plants, long grass and several small shrubs, some [illegible], ec. This land isof excellent quallity, being a rich brownish loam capable of producing any kind ofgrass and corn in the greatest perfection. It is singular that the appearance of thecountry should thus change all at once from woods to open land.

The appearance of this part in every respect resembles some parts [of] goodcultivated lands of Scotland or England. There is a complete division between theopen ground and the woods, some clumps of trees, some belts and regular woods allbounded by sweeping or straight lines, with the opend land between and adjoiningthem. Some of this open ground is level in valeys, some on gently declivities and somehilly.

The extreme point of this harbour is very near the sea. It is probable thissituation will make a desirable settlement at some future period as there are suchimmence quantities of flax growing wild.

The woods produce plants of [illegible] and timber for building ec. The fishesof various kinds [and a?] whale fishery would assure…

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[32]

[Blank in original]

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[33]White Island is [page torn in original]15,000 feet in high ab[out?] about 6miles in circ[umference?] in its centre about a mile [ . ] which southeast side through the It is situate in the Land in [ ] degrees of -grees longitude fro[m]

In this Valley we saw four large active creters and from one to two thousandsmall ones, from these creters issued large volumes of sulphureous Smoke or gaswhich ascended to a considerable hight, forming in its ascent majestic clouds. Largequantities of lead coloured ashe also ascended with the Smoke, which were blown bythe wind Several miles distant.

The largest of these creters is the one at the base of the mountain about 2,000feet distant from the entrance beering E.NE. It is from 50 to 60 feet diameter at itsmouth and of an unknown depth.

It was burning furiously and the flames arrived near its mouth with animmense quantity of dark and light coloured Smoke of a strong sulphureous smell. Thenext in magnitude to this is one about 500 yds. beyond it, which made a noice exactlylike a steam engine full charged when the valve is opened. It was a large caldron ofboiling hot brimston or some such combustible, which produced a large quantity ofwhite coloured Smoke, gas or steam: but saw no flames arise out of it and liquidbrimstone which congealed soon as it got cold. Of these small creters several areupon the mountain from…

The other two next in magnitude to these were not far distant from them andalso produced a large quantity of white Smoke, out of a boiling hot liquid. Theprincipal part of the other creters were small, only generally not more than from oneinch to 3 inches diameter. These also produced a considerable quantity of whiteSmoke or gas and liquid brimstone which congealed soon as it got cold. Of thesecreters several are upon the mountain from…

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[34][page torn in original] both outside and inside

[al]so saw several boiling hot [a]nd several small…of] than to the…

and others of a…The smoke did not [rise?] from

…y: but in volume often [s]uccessively creating a small

…volume.It was also observed that these creters produced double the quantity of Smoke

when the tide was full than when at ebb. And a hissing noise was heard from many ofthem.

A great proportion of this Valley has lately sunk 30 to 40 feet below theoridginnal livels. This low space is by far the most active in Volcanic eruption. It hassunk down as near as can be on a livel with the sea. It is probable this valley orignallyhad had only three large Creters burning in it (as three large visible circles are still tobe seen in the form of the outer boundary of the valley) which had most probablyburned down to a great debth and weadth, which undermined the mountain, andwhich had occasioned its falling into them, and by their being thus obstructed in theirprogress, small creters have burst out again in so great a number of places. It isremarkable that no living creature nor any vegitable substance was found in thisvaley. The high mountain which serounds it is nearly perpendicular which, togetherwith the immense quantity of sulphuric Smock, strikes the spectator with terror.

This Valy is principally composed of brimstone in various quallities, largequantities of Iron, Stones, burnt earth and ashes, a kind of soft rock like pipe clay,which most likely would be good for bleaching cloth and washing, a crystalized whitesubstance found outside of dry sulphur, a hard white stone, a soaft red do [ditto] andseveral other substances which I did not think of any value.

The mountain appears to be chiefly of volcanic origin, being a number ofStrata which lays horosontal, verticle and longitude

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[35]And nearly of the same…[page torn in original]is nearly as barron ona few shrubs andon part of its northseveral large trees was begin[ning?] feet above the level of the s[ea?]how they came there, as it couldthe tide and it was stillthe natural Production of the Island.

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[36][Blank in original]

[End of Thomas Shepherd’s Journal. See Appendix D for captions to hisaccompanying coastal views]

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8 Northern New Zealand

Captain Farley of the Alligator was back in Sydney in June 1826, and reported that the NewZealand Company expedition had arrived in the Hauraki gulf area and that a fort was beingconstructed there with all possible despatch. Another account was that theemigrants’minerolgist having reported Pakihi to be extremely rich in iron ore the leaders ofthe expedition purchased the island, intending immediately to open an iron mine.

Captain Herd, having visited White Island and Mercury Bay, continued his surveying andchart making activities in the Hauraki Gulf. In 1828 the London chartmaker J. W. Norie ofLeadenhall Street engraved “Part of the S.W. side of the Frith of the Thames in New Zealandsurveyed by Captain J. Herd”: leading into Prince Regent’s Inlet were the Wairoa andMagoria rivers. Dumont d’Urville soon afterwards surveyed the same inlet, which he called“Le Canal de l’Astrolabe.

A Deed of Purchase, accompanied by a map (28x40 cm), was drawn up relating to thesale to the New Zealand Company:

Through its agent Captain James Herd and to its trustees George Lyall,Stewart Marjoribanks, George Palmer and Robert Torrens of the islands of Pakatu,Taratoia, Ponue and Pake in the district of Tamakie…signed by Tacadua [etc.] and byThos. Kendall, interpreter. On board the Rosanna, 23 September 1826. (AucklandPublic Library NZMS 774)

Seven days after the signing, however, a serious incident occurred on the Rosanna, resultingin a court case when the ship finally reached Sydney. At the Supreme Court, Sydney on 21March 1827 (as reported three days’ later in the Sydney Gazette) one of the Rosanna settlers,Domus McDowal, flaxdresser, was charged with maliciously stabbing Alexander McClaren,turner, the previous 29 September with intent to cause grievous bodily harm:

Whilst [the Rosanna] was lying in the River Thames on 29 September 1826,about half a mile from the shore, a dispute took place between the prisoner [DomasMcDowal] and one Grey [Gray], who afterwards absconded from the ship at the Bayof Islands. It appeared that this dispute arose in the hold, where the prisoner, Grey,and McLarne [McClaren] were at work. Grey had a piece of flax, which he was aboutto pass through the hackle when the prisoner interposed to prevent him, saying that hehad no business there. Grey persisting in what he was about, some words took placeand the prisoner snatched up a tongs that lay on the bench at which they were at workand struck him across the hand. Grey struck the prisoner in return, when the latter

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drew his knife which, when McLarne who was standing by saw he cried out “the d—dold scoundrel has got his knife out, will no body interpose to take it from him: Theprisoner held the knife in his hand and said to Grey that he would “give him thelength of it,” Grey replied “Will you?’ and doubled his fist, as if about again to strike,when the prisoner immediately stabbed him in the breast. Grey ran up the ladder ontothe deck calling out “murder” and the prisoner then rushed towards McLarne whofell in the act of flying from his fury and whilst down was stabbed by the prisoner innine different places, two of the wounds being in the breast, from which, on thetestimony of the surgeon, death might have ensued but that the knife was preventedfrom penetrating deeper by the interposition of a rib.

Both McDowal and McClaren were present in court during the hearing of the case. The juryreturned a verdict of guilty on 3 April 1827. Dennis McDowal was brought up for sentence,having been convicted of stabbing with intent to kill. But the judgement was set aside on thegrounds that the Court, under Lord Ellenborough’s Act, had no authority to try such a crime.New Zealand, where the incident took place, was deemed to be outside the jurisdiction of theSydney court.

The following month the Rosanna, in company with the Lambton, reached the Bay of Islands.At Paihia mission station on 27 October 1826 missionary Henry Williams noted:

Yesterday arrived the New Zealand Company in their two vessels from thesouthward. They have been exploring the coast with great scare for the last seven oreight months. I went on board on their arrival and found Mr Lechmere, a relation fMrs Cole’s at Hampstead. He brought four letters of introduction to William[Williams] and myself from different persons. He appears a gentlemanly young manthough he has been disposed to be wild. This voyage will tend to sober himconsiderably. Captain Herd, who has charge of the expediton, seems to despair ofsuccess. His account is very interesting. But they have not landed to remain any time,as the natives behaved with hostility towards them and felt disposed to take the vesselsor to attack them at Wangaroa.

Henry’s brother William Williams also wrote from Paihia on 6 November:

The flax company’s vessels are just arrived, having thus far failed in effecting asettlement in the island. Neither do I see the least probability of their succeding. MrLechmere nephew to Mrs Gregg I have seen a few times…

And on 7 November:

The New Zealand Company is likely to fall to the ground. The settlers are nowin the bay concentrated in the two vessels, which brought them out. They procededfirst to the Southern extremity of New Zealand and then examining the differentharbours on the coast, at length arrived at the river Thames, where they remained forfifteen weeks, and there they would have established themselves had they not beenintimidated by the natives. The people at first were very civil, but at length they beganto form designs against the vessel, which most likely would have succeded had not thepeople been much on their guard. The annual expense of the persons at present

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employed is about 80,000 pounds. To defray the expense of which, they are not likelyto obtain a fourth part clear from the sale of flax.

Botanist Allan Cunningham had sailed from Sydney in 1824 in John Oxley’s party ofexploration in Australia. Now, in 1826, he was visiting the bay of Islands and occupying aroom in the house of Henry and Marianne Williams. On 4 November Cunningham returned toPaihia from a botanising expedition:

It was not until after sun set that I reached Paiai when on observing an augmentationof the number of ships in the bay I learnt that of them were the New Zealand Companyships Rosanna and cutter Lambton, under the direction of Capt Herd who had comeup from the Thames.

Allan Cunningham, friend of Dumont d’Urville, and described by Marianne Williamsas a very pleasant man, had sought permission from the New South Wales authorities to takehis convict servant John Law with him on his investigation of the flora of New Zealand. Hehad applied in writing to colonial secretary McLeay but permission was refused.

At Marsden vale (Paihia) on 5 November 1826 Mrs Shepherd, Thomas Shepherd’s wife, gavebirth to her second son, David. Marianne Williams was a trained midwife and may haveassisted at the birth. The child was baptised by William Williams. As the New South WalesCensus of 1828 was to show, this was the third child born on the voyage.

On Saturday 2 December 1826 Marianne Williams wrote from Paihia:

We found the settlers still in the bay. Mr Lechmere (a transcription says MrsLechmere) came over several times to take leave of us, and they did not sail till lastSunday. Mrs Shepherd wife of one of the principal settlers was on shore all the time. Iwas at Wangaroa and was confined at Mr Fairburn’s when William officiated.

The New Zealand Company vessels rounded North Cape and Cape Maria Van Diemen andsailed along the west coast of New Zealand as far as the Hokianga river, which Captain Herdknew from his 1822 visit, and entered it. Captain Herd made a surveyof the entrance to theriver and a chart was printed in London in 1828 by Norie. Further up the Hokianga river, onboard the Rosanna on 26 January 1827 near the place subsequently known for many years asHerd’s Point (Rawene), a land transaction was entered into on behalf of the New ZealandCompany directors in London. It was witnessed by Luther Lechmere and young ThomasSurfleet Kendall:

Know all Men by these presents that I Moodewi, Awitu, in consideration of FiveMuskets, Fifty three Pounds Powder, Four Pair Blankets, Three Hundred Flints, andFour Musket Cartridge Boxes now paid and delivered to me by Captain James Herdthe Agent for the Company denominated the New Zealand Company instituted inLondon in the Kingdom of Great Britain have given granted bargained and sold andby this present instrument do fully freely and absolutely give grant bargain and sellunto George Lyall Stewart Marjoribanks George Palmer and Robert Torrens all of theCity of London Esquires the Trustees of the said New Zealand Company and to theirHeirs Successors and Assigns All that piece and parcel of land situated in the district

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of Hokianga in the Island of Eaheinomauwe [Te Ika-a-Maui], New Zealand, boundedon the East side by a branch of the River Hokianga, called by the natives the Wymar,on the West side by a branch of the said River called the Omania, on the North side bythe Hokianga and on the South by a Valley extending from the Wymar to the Omania,to the South of a Pah called Tahare Together with all the trees growing on the saidpiece or parcel of Land and all other Rights Members privileges and appurtenancesthere to belonging together with the right of navigating the aforesaid River itsbranches and Creeks To have and to hold the said piece or parcel of Land and theTrees thereon and the Appurtenances thereto together with the right of navigating asaforesaid unto the said George Lyall Stewart Marjoribanks George Palmer andRobert Torrens as such Trustees of the said New Zealand Company their HeirsSuccessors and Assigns for ever and as and for their own Estate and propertyabsolutely clear and freed from all taxes charges impositions and contributionswhatsoever – In testimony thereof I have to these presents thus done and given set myhand on board the Rosanna, at anchor in the Hokianga in the Island ofEaheinomauwe, New Zealand this twenty sixth day of January in the year of Christone thousand eight hundred and twenty seven [26 Jan 1827]

Moodewi, AwituWitnesses his markKitokaLuther LechmereThomas Kendall

I hereby certify that I interpreted the above to Moodiwy Awitu and that he fully understood the purport and meaning of its contents

Thomas Kendall.(Archives New Zealand NZC 38/1)

While the Rosanna and Lambton lay in the Hokianga river tribal unrest and war broke outelsewhere: the Wesleyan mission at Whangaroa was destroyed and the Williams’ ChurchMissionary Society mission at Paihia was put in jeopardy. The Missionary Register, Londonprinted intelligence from the Williams about events in New Zealand:

This evening [19 January 1827] a letter was received by the Rev. Henry Williamsfrom Captain Herd of the New Zealand Company’s ship Rosanna, then lying atShukianga [Hokianga], in which the Captain very kindly expressed the deep concernthat he felt on hearing of our disasters, and generously offered to accommodate uswith a passage to Sydney, and to render us any other assistance that lay in his power:such kindness, manifested by a stranger, under circumstances so peculiarly trying asours were, excited in our bosoms the liveliest emotions of gratitude and respect.

Marianne Williams wrote to her husband, who must have been away from Paihia at this time:

We have just heard overland from Captn Heard and the settlers at Shukeanga. Theyare going to the Colony [New South Wales] and offer us assistance. All the tribes arerising there in war.

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The missionary families in Paihia, however, did not take up Captain Herd’s offer of help andstayed where they were.

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9 Aftermath

Captain Herd brought his Rosanna settlers safely into Sydney harbour in New South Wales on11 February 1827 after a run of 12 days. On 16 February the Sydney Gazette reported thatCaptain Herd intended to dispose of his cargo in Sydney to best advantage and then return toEngland with an account of his discoveries, for “discovery was a primary feature in theCommodore’s instructions.”

The Sydney Gazette was not sympathetic towards the abortive enterprise, which itdescribed in the following terms: “Whole volumes might be filled to show how successfullythis patriotic Company has been deceived…taken in…gulled by a certain somebody, aparticular clan.” The newspapers related how “the old commodore” Captain Herd, in hisnative dialect, defended the directors in London as “a company formed of the first, aye, thevery first men in the British empire.”

The Lambton was sold and early in March 1827, all the stores, machinery andimplements belonging to the Company were also put up for sale. Advertisements wereinserted in the Sydney papers and, as we have seen, on 21 March the case involvingMcDowal, McClaren and Gray came before the Sydney court.

As agreed, the New Zealand Company emigrants were offered a passage home at theCompany’s expense. A third of the Rosanna settlers remained in New South Wales. Theyincluded the Shepherd, Bell and Sydenham families, Thomas Surfleet Kendall; the two Tods,and John Durie.

The New South Wales Census of November 1828 listed the following who had arrivedon the Rosanna: Thomas Shepherd, 48, gardener, Botany Road, wife and family; Robert Bell,30, overseer, employed by John Thos. Campbell, Bringelly, his wife Isabella and their sonsJames, 2, and David, 6 months; Samuel Sydenham, 32, cooper, Cambridge Street, his wifeLouisa, 26, and two children, Charles, 2, and Matilda, 1; Thomas Kendall, 22, re-united withhis parents after their sojourn in Valparaiso; George Tod, 30, shopkeeper at John Williams’,Phillip Street, Syudney; John Tod, baker, Sydney; John Durie, 23, shoemaker at JohnWilliams’, Phillip Street, Sydney.

Isabella, the wife of Robert Bell, lived the rest of her life in New South Wales. Isabella Belldied at Bellfield, Cabramatta in November 1863 aged 63 years, attended by her son James.She left three sons and two daughters. A daughter predeceased her. Samuel Sydenham died atthe Asylum, Liverpool, New South Wales on 8 February 1864. A son, John Sydenham, diedin New South Wales in 1868.

Elizabeth Shepherd, Thomas Shepherd’s daughter from his first marriage, was marriedat the Darling Nursery in October 1831 to Robert Henderson.

Thomas Shepherd took a full part in public life in Sydney. He was involved in churchbusiness and with the running of the Sydney Botanic Gardens. His sons eventually took over

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the business and occasionally supplied plats to nurseries and botanic gardens in New Zealand.In 1851 son Thomas William Shepherd published a Catalogue of plants cultivated at theDarling Nursery comprising the names and habits of over 2500 species and varieties.

Thomas Shepherd’s wife Jane gave birth to two more children in Australia. One wasgiven the name Patrick Lindsay Crawford Shepherd. She outlived her husband by nearlythirty years. Jane Susan Shepherd died on 31 October 1863 aged 66 at the Darling Nursery,Sydney.

Alexander McClaren may also have stayed on in New South Wales after the court case he wasinvolved in. In 1834 a visiting naturalist George Bennett described a Mr. McClaren as “thegreatest importer and manufacturer of New Zealand flax in the colony.” Bennett visited

[McClaren’s] extensive establishment on the north shore near Sydney, for thecleaning and manufacture of the flax into rope. McClaren also had establishments atNew Zealand from where he imported the flax, exporting some to England, andmanufacturing the remainder into cordage for the use of the colonial vessels.

The Rosanna engaged in a little pearl fishing before the return voyage home. In May 1827 theRosanna left Sydney for London via Cook Strait. The ship spent some time at Ship’s Cove,Queen Charlotte Sound, where Herd had been the year before.

On his return to London some of Captain Herd’s New Zealand charts were engravedand published in 1828 by the commercial chartmaker J. W. Norie, with whom Captain Herdwas acquainted. Norie was chartseller to the Admiralty and to the East India Company. Chartscould be obtained from his Navigation Warehouse and Naval Academy at No. 157 LeadenhallStreet. In 1827 Norie had published the fifth edition of The Complete East India Pilot, fromLondon to any Part of the Indian & China Seas, Australia, Van Diemen’s Land, & NewZealand, “comprehending a set of new and accurate charts, exhibiting all the passages out andhome…, the whole drawn from the most recent surveys.” Herd’s Remarks on geographicalpositions of places visited in New Zealand appeared in September 1832 in the first issue of theNautical Magazine. (These Remarks were reprinted in The New Zealand Journal 1841).

Captain Herd made plans to sail a third time to the southern hemisphere. An undated posterwas reproduced in the catalogue of bookseller Eric M. Bonner of London in 1959, when itwas offered for sale at 48 pounds. The poster used to illustrate an article on Captain Herd inthe Dominion 4 June 1960 by Celia and Cecil Manson was worded thus:

Emigration for Hobart Town, Van Diemen’s Land & Sydney, New South Wales to sailin February on the beautiful fast-sailing ship Ann, 500 tons burthen lying in theLondon docks, Wapping Basin, James Herd, Commander…For further particularsapply to the Owner, Mr Horton James (10x14 in)

A ship Ann (366 tons) did leave London on 1 May 1833 for Hobart Town and Sydneywith 37 passengers. But Captain Herd had been replaced as master by R.Free. Five years laterCaptain Herd was dead. On 16 March 1838 Edward Gibbon Wakefield wrote a note to J. G.Lambton, Earl of Durham (the note found its way into the Lambton Papers), telling Lambtonthat he had “just received deeds from the widow: Mrs Herd imagines she has a lien on thedocuments.”

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Nothing is know of Captain Herd’s origins but in The Scots in New Zealand G.L.Pearce stated that Captain James Herd came from Cumberland. One of the Earl of Crawford’stitles had been Prince of Cumberland. Like Captain Cook’s widow before her, Mrs Herd mayhave lived not far from the London docks.

Four of the Rosanna settlers returned to New Zealand. By July 1827, as Captain Dillon noted,McLean, Nesbit, Nimmo and Gillies were back at the Bay of Islands, where their formershipmate Alexander Gray already was. Early in 1828 Captain Kent, who had been in Otagoharbour with Captain Herd, was joined at Koutu Point by some of the New Zealand Companysettlers. All five settlers were to live the rest of their lives among the people of the far north ofNew Zealand.

McLean worked as a sawyer and acted as pilot on the Hokianga river. He drowned on8 January 1835 and was buried in the Mangungu cemetery, where a headstone bore theinscription:

Sacred to the memory ofMr Thomas McLean.

This stone was erected by his friendCaptain Crow of the Brazil Packet.

Captain Crow himself drowned not long afterwards leaving a wife, who was Maori, and a son.Benjamin Nesbitt eventually became involved in ship-building in the Bay of Islands

and other carpentry work. He helped build the stone house at Kerikeri.George Nimmo subsequently made a living as a coachbuilder and blacksmith. He died in1885, having lived in the Hokianga district for 56 years. In 1842 he made claim to 200 acresin the Hokianga, stating that he had purchased them on 23 December 1831 from native chiefs.

Colin Gillies later settled at Mahurangi. His daughter Annabella, whose mother wasHihe, was brought up by Wesleyan missionary John Hobbs and his wife. Annabella wasmarried to William Webster from Montrose, Scotland and left many descendants. Aheadstone in the Rawene cemetery commemmorated Webster family members, including:

George Gillis second son of William and Annabella Webster who died 11th December1886…and Annabella the beloved wife of William Webster, who died 16th May 1895aged 67 years.

A photo of Annabella Webter was reproduced in a Webster family history. Her husbandWilliam died in 1904 at the age of 88.

The other Rosanna settler Alexander Gray, the one who had absconded from the ship,spent the rest of his life in the Bay of Islands. In December 1826 he bought land presumablyin New Zealand “at Parramatta,” the first non-missionary to do so.

At Paihia on 17 May 1830 Alexander Gray was married by Rev. William Williams toKotiro Hinerangi of Ngati Ruanui, a Taranaki tribe. Their children James, Alexander andMargaret were baptised later the same year. Two more daughters, Mary Sophia and JaneMaria, were born subsequently. But Gray and his wife quarrelled continually and laterseparated. Some of the children were brought up at Tauranga by Rev. Chapman and his wifeAnn. Their daughter Sophia Gray (1832-1911) became the famous Guide Sophia, whowitnessed the eruption at Tarawera. Her portrait painted by Gottfried Lindauer was in theAuckland City Art Gallery. C.F. Goldie also sketched and painted her. Descendants ofAlexander Gray said he was believed to have come from Aberdeen.

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Appendix A:

Chronology1776 Nov married at Cults, Fife: Alexander Shepherd & Helen Galloway 1779 Mar baptised at Cults, Fife: Thomas, son of Alexander Shepherd & Helen

Galloway1781 Oct married at Cults, Fife: Rev. David Wilkie & Isobel Lister1785 Nov born at Cults, Fife: David, son of Rev. David Wilkie & Isobel Lister1795 Humphrey Repton publishes: Sketches and hints on landscape gardening1805 May David Wilkie moves to London. His Pitlessie Fair is exhibited1808 Jun baptised at St John, Hackney, London: Alexander, son of Thomas Shepherd &

Sarah Josling1812 May baptised at St John, Hackney: John Joselin, son of Thomas Shepherd1813 Aug David Wilkie’s mother and sister move to London1816 Oct David Wilkie visits Edinburgh and meets Walter Scott and the Ettrick

Shepherd1816 David Wilkie is sketched by B.R. Haydon1818 Mar Humphrey Repton dies at Hare Street, Essex1818 Oct? Lady Blessington opens her salon at St James’s Square 1820 Mar Sir Thomas Lawrence returns to England

Jun Sir Joseph Banks dies1821 Apr Select Committee of House of Commons examines Depressed state of U.K.

agriculture1821 Jun Providence (Capt Herd) leaves London with convicts for New South Wales1822 Aug George IV visits Edinburgh1823 David Wilkie appointed King’s Limner for Scotland1824 Mar baptised at St John’s, Hackney: Thomas William, son of Thomas Shepherd &

Jane Henderson1824 Oct David Wilkie visits Fife1825 Sir Thomas Lawrence paints Master Lambton (“The Red Boy”); Alexander

McLeay1825 Mar New Zealand Company formed in London.1825 Jun Thomas Shepherd selects New Zealand Company settlers in Fife1825 Jun Alexander McLeay appointed Colonial Secretary of New South Wales1825 Jul David Wilkie leaves England to convalesce in Europe1825 Aug Rosanna departs from London for “New South Wales, Ec”1825 Dec financial crisis in London (“The great panic”)1826 Jan Alexander McLeay arrives in Sydney1826 Mar Rosanna and Lambton arrive at Southern Port, Stewart Island, New Zealand1826 May Rosanna enters Whanganui a Tara (Port Nicholson)1826 Oct New Zealand Company ships arrive at the Bay of Islands1827 Jan Rosanna settlers enter the Hokianga river1827 Feb New Zealand Company vessels arrive at Port Jackson (Sydney)

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Appendix B:

Remarks on the Geographical Positions of several places visited on Voyages to the Islands ofNew Zealand, made in the years 1822, 1825, 1826 and 1827, with Explanatory Notes, ByJames Herd, Commander of the barque Rosanna.

Note 1.-Snares Islands are in two groups, bearing S.38 deg.W. and N. 38 deg. E. from eachother. They are divided by a channel, nearly 3 miles broad, in the centre of which the seabroke in several places; the northern group is high, and covered with trees and verdure. TheN.E. side of the group is accessible, and of gradual ascent, and the shores appear to have somefine sandy bays; the S.W. side of this group is acccesible, and of gradual ascent, and theshores appear to have some fine sandy bays; the S.W. side of this group presents a dreadfulprecipice, on which the swell beats with great violence. The S.W. group consists of five or sixbarren inaccessible islets, or rocks, the sides of which are perpendicular, and covered with thedung of birds. There appear to be a number of shoals and reefs amongst these islands so that,if possible, they had better be avoided. The latitude of these islands was determined fromindividual altitudes, horizon good, and with two sextants; the longitude, from chronometersand lunar distances, taken on three consecutive days preceding our arrival. The difference oflongitude, measured by chronometers to the anchorage at the back of Cable Island, inSouthern Port, was 1 deg. 6 min.36 sec., the interval of time being 24 hours. The distancemeasured by the patent log to Broad Passage was 69miles, the course steered N.E. by E. alittle easterly by compass, which proves the ship to have been very little influenced bycurrents, as the observation gives distance 69 miles, course N. 41 deg. E. true. In thedescription of Southern Port it is necessary to refer to Stewart’s sketch in mentioning thisharbour, as I adopt his names. We lay here six weeks, during which time upwards of 40 setslunar distances were taken east and west of the moon, the mean of which gave 167 deg. 26min 45 sec, and a number meridional altitudes, from the artificial horizontal gave latitude 47deg. 11 min. 31 sec. The variation of the compass by a number of azimuths, with threecompasses, gave 17 deg. 4 min. 30 sec E.The longitude by chronometers on our arrivalcorresponded within two miles of this mean; from these data the latitude and longitude ofCable Island was computed, and from it the other places mentioned. From the summit ofCable Island, the South Capes, the Traps, &c, could be seen, and bear as follows:- the SouthCape, S., 35 deg. W distance 7 miles, the S.W. Cape, S. 49 deg. W. 9 miles; the NorthernTraps, S. 6 ½ deg. E about 5 leagues; the South Traps S. 38 deg. 30 min E. about 6 leagues,all compass bearings; and from which bearings and distances I have computed their positions.This longitude and latitude differ considerably from that given by Purdy, computed fromStewart’s Sketch; the latitude being the more surprising, as the most common navigator cangenerally ascertain that tolerably correct. This error rather astonishing me, when Stewartarrived I mentioned the circumstance to him, and he told me that when he drew the sketch hehad nothing, but a quadrant, no artificial horizon and only a boat compass to assist him. Withthese slender means it is indeed surprising that he has made the sketch so correctly. In thelatitude of Cable Island, Stewart’s Island is not more than five miles broad. This harbour orsound (Southern Port) would contain the whole navy of Great Britain secure from all winds;at present it affords a station for the New South Wales seal fishers, who are not verysuccessful. A ship bound from India to Peru, or Chili may, in case of carrying away a top-mast or yard, supply herself here, or recruit her water; which by the bye, is not very good.When we were here, it had a reddish tinge, and imparted that colour to everything it touched,

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and was also very astringent, which we thought was caused by the decayed vegetables it ranthrough. This is the most rainy and boisterous part of the world I was ever in. NOTE 2.-Port Otago is an inlet, or arm of the sea, running up about nine miles S.S.W.,making a peninsula of the land on which is Cape Saunders bearing from the said cape N. byW., by compass about two leagues distant. This is a well-sheltered harbour, with a bar acrossthe entrance, having 3 ½ fathoms over it at low water and from seven to nine fathoms inside.The course in is S. by E., keeping the larboard, or east shore, on board, until a mile and a halfwithin the heads, when a vessel will be completely land-locked. As the bar is within theheads, there is never any sea on it. Variations 17 deg. 5 mins E. High water full and change,20 minutes past 3, P.M. The tide rises about nine feet. In latitude 45 deg. 24 min. 26 sec. Andlongitude 170 deg. 50 min. lies a reef nearly level with the water, and about three miles fromthe shore, on which we had nearly struck. NOTE 3.-From what is called in the chart Point Lookers-on, as far as Cape Campbell, wefound the land from 15 to 20 miles of longitude too far east; in fact, there is not part of theislands of New Zealand worse laid down that Cook’s sTrait, which is the more singular, asCook was so much about it; except in the vicinity of Cape Koanaroa, the chart bears not theleast resemblance to the land; what is termed in the chart Cloudy Bay, is in fact not a bay, butnearly a straight coast, and very low, being between two high lands; at a distance it has theappearance of a deep bay. In the centre of the low land runs a river, the bar of which at timesis scarcely navigable for canoes, owing to the surf and shallow water. Two miles and a halffrom this flat, or low land, and to the northward is Mangi Nui [Wanga Nui], an excellentharbour and well sheltered from all winds. From this harbour Cape Cambell bears S. 35 deg.E. by compass, distant about 5 leagues; and a point of land to the northward of the cape at thecomencement of the low land, bears S. 21 deg. E. distant about 3 leagues; the high snowymountains S. 11 deg. W. Cape Tierawitee [Terawhiti] N. 60 deg. E. and Cape Pallisser E. bycompass. The course into this harbour is N. by W. having 11 fathoms at its entrance, which avessel may pass 3 miles up, and lay sheltered from all winds. There the water is excellent, andthe shore covered with wild cabbage and South Sea cress. Wangi Nui Atra [Wanga nui a Tara], or Port Nicholson harbour, bears from Cape PallisserN. 74 deg. W. by compass, distant about 8 leagues, and from the high snowy mountains N.40E. The course up this harbour is N. 6 deg. 30 min. W. for nearly nine miles. Here all thenavies of Europe might ride in perfect security; at the entrance there is 11 and twelve fathomswater. Viewing the coast on the eastern side of Cook’s Strait (when off and within a few milesof Campbell) from Cape Pallisser to Cape Tierawitte, it forms in three table lands, CapePallisser being the first; the table land which forms the east entrance of Wangi Nui Atra thesecond; and Cape Tierawitte, the third; between these table lands at this distance there appearsto be two deep bights, which isnot the case, but low land nearly level with the water. By theabove description, this harbour may easily be discovered, as it is close under the north part ofthe middle table land. NOTE 4.-The longitude of Mercury Bay was determined from chronometers agreeing withinners, taken east and west of the moon, when near White Island, some few days previous toour arrival, and which I considered very good, the weather being very favourable. We hadfive sets of lunar distances while lying in the bay, but being only taken on one side of themoon, and the terrestrial refraction being so great, that we could neither determine thelatitude, nor rate the chronometers, from the natural horizon. I do not think they can correct,although agreeing with each other; and therefore give the preference to the chronometers. Thelunar made the bay in 175 deg. 20 min. 15 sec., differing 30 min. 45 sec. from thechronometers. NOTE 5.-River Thames. The same remarks on the lunar observations, made at Mercury bay,are applicable here. We had here five sets of distances, which gave longitude 175 deg. 10 min.

81

45 sec., differing from the chronometers 15 min. 15 sec. To the westward; such was therefraction here, that the latitude by meridional altitudes differed upwards of three miles. Thedifference of longitude from Mercury Bay to this station, by chronometers, was 24 min. 39sec. And from the ship, Cape Colville bore N. 16 deg. W; the entrance of Fresh-water River,or Thames, N. 80 deg. E; entrance of the River Piacho [Piako], S. 50 deg. E.; and the N. W.point of land in sight, N 35 deg. W. Variation 12 deg. 38 min. E. This would place CapeColville in 175 deg. 22 min. 30 sec.; and as the bearings are so near the meridian, thelongitude cannot be far wrong. NOTE 6.-A dangerous Flat Rock, nearly level with the water, lies off the first point of landto the eastward of Point Rodney, nearly three miles, and bears from Cape Colville W.10 deg.S. by compass, and S.E. from Point Rodney, right in the fair way between it and CapeColville. NOTE 7.- At the Bay of Islands we had no opportunity of getting lunar distances, and havetherefore approximated the longitude by the difference of longitude from the Thames, andlikewise from Maria Van Diemen, and Sydney, which I think will be found not far from thetruth. To the eastward and westward of Cape Maria, we had eighteen sets of lunar distances,differing very little from each other; the mean of which made the cape in 172 deg. 49 min. 30sec. Which is within a trifle of the longitude I assign it in the table annexed. The difference oflongitude, measured from the anchorage at the Thames to the Bay of Islands, bychronometers, was 1 deg. 15 min. 57 sec. W. and from the Bay of Islands to the North Cape 1deg. 6 min. 7 sec. W.; from the North Cape to Cape Maria Van Diemen, 20 deg. 15 sec.;making the whole difference of longitude from the Bay of Islands to Cape Maria Van Diemen1 deg. 16 min. 57 sec. W., the chronometers from the Bay of Islands to Cape Maria VanDiemen 1 deg. 16 min. 57 sec. W; the chronometers from the Bay of Islands to the Heads ofJokeehanga 44 min. 10 sec. W. and from the Heads of Jokeehanga to Sydney, in a run of 12days, the mean of the chronometers gave 22 deg. 15 min. 15 sec., which would make theheads of that river three miles more to the westward than I have put them in the table; but it is,in my opinion, difficult to say which is most correct. The variation at Jokeehanga was 13 deg.23 min. E.; Perry Island, off Cape Bream, bears from Point Pocock N. 26 deg. 30 min. E. bycompass, distant about three leagues.

(Signed) JAMES HERDCommander of the barque Rosanna.

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Appendix C:

Physical description of Thomas Shepherd’s Journal as described by the State Library of NewSouth Wales:

Thomas Shepherd’s Journal A1966:

The journal is composed of 36pp. (19 ½cm x 30 1/5cm tall) foolscap paper plus 4 sheets(64cm x 26cm tall).

The first 36pp. Contain the text of the journal. There are no covers extant. Only twosections are still sewn, and these have been resewn while the journal has been in the Library’scare, all other pages are now single sheets.

Watermark is the date 1810 and the Britannia figure enclosed in an oval frame,surmounted by the Royal crown. Paper is a little yellowed and foxed, inkstained, and wornand torn at the fore-edge, head and tail. Closely written in browning (iron gall?) ink, muchcrossing out and rewriting. Some basic repairs have been done to tears, holes in pages, andedges using transparent repair tissue.

The four large sheets are made up of thick brown paper foolscap sheets taped together.They contain drawings of the coastline and bays of parts of New Zealand with descriptions ofthese locations. All in faded pencil. The rubber stamp ‘Free Public Library of Sydney’appears on the back of one sheet.

Again the paper is yellowed and foxing is evident.Current storage has the journal’s pages interleaved with acid free tissue, wrapped in

acid free bristol and placed in a 2” flap box. Has been filmed on CY479.

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Appendix D:

Coastal views drawn by Thomas Shepherd (Mitchell Library A1966: CY479). Captionstranscribed by Hilda McDonnell

Frames:371 :[Not identified]372 & 373 :’This Harbour is situate…on the north east side of Cooks Straight’

:[Not identified]378 & 381 : ‘This situation on Banks’s Peninsula…’

‘About two o’clock 15 May.’Cape Campble, Cloudy Bay. Inset: Cloudy Bay

379 & 380 : “This mountain is 8 or 9 thousand feet in hight…’16 May 1826. [between Banks Peninsula and “Lookers On’]. “I had a veryperfect view of this mountain…’ 17 May 1826. ‘Lookers On’ mountain.

382 & 385 :Port Oxly:N.E. side of Wanga Nui Atra Harbour, Cook’s Straights; Inset: WanganuiHarbour in Cloudy Bay

374 & 377 :[Banks Peninsula] May 15th;:Queen Charlotte Sound:[Two views not identified]

383 & 384 : 30 or 28 miles north of Port Oxly:Entrance to Cloudy Harbour:Cloudy Bay, May 19th. Inset: [Rivers and streams]

375 & 376 :[Not identified] ‘This view, bearing west ‘:Cape Komoroa, Cape Terrawitte, Cape Pallisser.Inset: [Wanganui Atra] Harbour

*

Coastal views: captions, transcribed by Hilda McDonnell[New line in original denoted by / ]

Frames 372 & 373This Harbour is situate in latitude [blank in original] and Longitude [blank in

original] on thenorth east side of Cooks Straight. It is about 6 or 7 miles in debth from the sea/ bearing north from thence and from east to west 5 or 6 miles in weadth it runs…/ with twoislands near its sentre one about a mile in length & [?] a mile in weadth the other about 2furlongs in length and [?] that weadth. It is sarounded / by on all sides by Hill[s] of varioushights from 300 to a 1000 feet excep[t] on the south west side and north east side where aretwo Valeys of considerable extent. That on the south west / side about 500 acres part marshcontaining a considerable quantity of good Flax, the other part loam, chiefly wooded withvarious sorts of trees & shrubs but no large timber. All this valey / is capable of beingcultivated, its near a fine gravely beach 2 miles in [length?]. The other bearing N.E. isseveral square miles with two rivers winding through it, sufficiently large for navigatingboats. Part of this valey is light sandy / ground and marshy. The marshy part is full ofexcellent flax, the other part is full of fern root shrubs and tufts of grass. All the other part is

84

full of timber and underwood of no great size at least / for two miles by the sides of the rivers.The land is a fine soil deep loam, excellent for wheat and other vegetable productions. We areinformed large timber are growing heigher up this valey -/ The hills near the harbour in someplaces are naked and rocky and others wooded. The distant hills are full of wood. In someplaces the land is good on those hills. / The climate for the season of the year is mild.

Frames 378 & 381This situation on Banks’s Peninsula was very pleasant , having a number of inlets

from the sea / and a good proportion of open land in appearance like our downs in Englandand much density in hill / and dale and a still larger proportion in thriving woods, aconsiderable quantity of high rock, near the beach and / some curious spiral and conicle rocstanding in [?] alone from the beach – This part of the country looks very pleasant / andpromises a desirable situation for settlements

About two Oclock 15 May

*

Frames 379 & 380I had a very perfect view of this mountain. It presents a very rugged appearance for

many very precipitous angular pointed broken hills and small divisions from top to bottom ofthe Mountain / It looks inascapable, looks a very barron brown colour with two patcheswooded. The hills northwards are not so high and has no snow upon them but still continuesto have an uneven appearance. / The North Island is seen from this place which we suppose tobe the entrance from the east side to Cooks Straits.

17th May 1826. WednesdayLookers on mountain bearing west 20 milesAbout 20 miles north of the one below

*16 May 1826This mountain is 8 or 9 thousand feet in hight with a level land and barse [base] ofconsiderable extent with a few small hills and an opening between / two of them inappearance as if it led to a harbour; the low ground which I had a view of…lookers on / wascovered with verdure; some of the hills had an appearance of…neither Production nor theland…the high hills at their tops were covered…

*

Frames 383 & 384 [bottom half]This part of New Zealand presents high…hills in the background…which with snow…andvaleys…surrounded with verdure of some kind; a large proportion looks as if it were capableof being cut…from the beach. The ground still continues much broken by ravines…The highground, while there is no snow, has very little appearance of rocks. Some of the…was nearlyas low as the sea and some not as much broken by ravines.

This land is level…allmost level with the sea is many miles in extent 30 to 40 miles from PortOxley.

85

Tatoo Hippa[30?] or 28 mile[s] north of Port Oxly

*

Frames 375 & 376This view, bearing west taken about 60[?] miles off; nothing but rugged hills covered withsnow[?] / It is most likely a considerable quantity of level land lays between the mountainsand the sea as had the mountains been near the sea the lower part of them could not have hadany snow / upon them

A considerable extent..valey / opening from the sea bearing N.W. and / a mountain seen at agreat / distance off

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Appendix E:

Handbill advertising the sailing of the Ann

EMIGRATIONFor Hobart Town, Van Diemen’s land, & Sydney,

NEW SOUTH WALESTo Sail February, the beautiful fast-sailing ship

ANN,55 tons burthen, copper-fastened, and newly-coppered, lying in the London Docks, Wapping

BasinJAMES HERD, Commander

This fine Vessel has been expressly fitted up with spacious and elegant Cabins forLadies and Gentlemen going as passengers to these flourishing Colonies, and the steerageAccommodations are very superior, having nearly 7 feet height between Decks: is well armed,and carries an experienced Surgeon. The Climate of New South Wales and Van Diemen’sLand is universally admitted to be the finest in the World; and as Wages are very High,provisions remarkably cheap, everything may be had in the colonies, with common industry,to make life easy and happy.

There is little doubt, from the sailing qualities of this Vessel, she will make a veryquick and affable voyage; and as the owner is going in her himself Passengers may beassured of meeting with the most handsome treatment, as well as the fullest informationbefore they sail, on every subject connected with their needs. In addition to which from thelong residence of the Owner in these colonies he is enabled to introduce respectablepassengers to valuable connexions in Hobart Town and Sydney as soon as they arrive.Immediate application should be made to secure a passage by the ANN,…being chiefly ladenwith the Owner’s Goods there will be none of the repeated and vexatious delays so justlycomplained of in other Vessels. No…be considered as engaged, until half the passage is paid.

16, Great Trinity Lane, Bread Street, Cheapside;WHERE THE SCALE OF RATIONS FOR STEERAGE PASSENGERS MAY BE

INSPECTEDThe following important information has been published lately by His Majesty’s

Commissioners for Emigration: PENSIONERS OF THE ARMY may receive 4 years Pension,by way of Computation, to enable them to emigrate to New South Wales & Van Diemen’sLand. UNMARRIED FEMALES between the age of 15 & 30, may obtain a Free Gift of EightPounds, towards the expense of their passage; and MECHANICS & ARTIZANS (if married)may obtain a loan of Twenty Pounds, for the same purpose. But no time should be lost inmaking application as the fund is nearly exhausted. [Application?] forms may be seen at No16, Great Trinity Lane and every assistance given in filling them up and transmitting them tothe Government Office.THE FOLLOWING TRADESMEN ARE MUCH WANTED IN THESE COLONIES, VIZ.Carpenters, Coopers (Wet, Drie and Oil), Joiners, Turners, Stone Masons, Bricklayers, Brick-Makers, Well Sinkers, Pump Borers, Sawyers, Plasterers, Slaterers, Coachmakers, Buildersand Architects, Cabinetmakers, Upholsterers, Tailors and Dress Makers, Shoemakers,Turners and Fellmongers, Curriers and Leather dressers, Saddlers and Harness-Makers,Brewers and Distillers, Bakers, Butchers, Cooks and Confectioners, Biscuit Bakers, Hatters,Chemists and Druggists, Soap Makers, Tallow Chandlers and Melters, Provision Curers,Sailors, Sail-Makers, Caulkers, Shipwrights, Ship-Chandlers, Boat-Builders, Blacksmiths,Tinmen and Braziers, Plumbers and Painters, Block and Mast Makers, Rope-Makers, Gun

87

and Lock Smiths, printers, (Compositors and pressmen), Farmers, Shepherds, Cattle Dealers,Wool sorters, Horse-Dealers, Farriers, Millers, Millwrights, Wheelwrights. Gardeners,Nurserymen, Land Suveyors, Sheep Farmers, Sheep Shearers, Engineers, SperinacetiRefiners, and a variety of other Trades.

Prices of Provisions in the Colonies:- Beef 1d. per pound, Mutton 11.2d, Tea 1s. 6d., Sugar2d., Soap 4d., Wine 6d. per bottle, Peaches 1s 6d. per bushel, and not a Farthing Taxes of anydescription whatsoever.

RATES OF PASSAGE MONEY Per Ship ANN, from LONDON to VAN DIEMEN’S LANDFirst Cabin A Single Gentleman, ₤75 Second Cabin ₤35 Steerage ₤25

A Single Lady, ₤65 ₤35 ₤20A Married couple, ₤120 ₤60 ₤15Children, 9 to 14 yrs ₤40 ₤25 ₤15Children, 5 to 9 yrs ₤30 ₤20 ₤15Children under 5 yrs ₤20 ₤15 ₤10

Provisions, Wines, Spirits, Beer, &c, included; but passengers to provide their own Bedding,Earthenware, &c. – The Passage to Sydney is a trifle…

88

Sources:

Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales, Sydney:Thomas Shepherd, Journal (ML A1966 & CY Reel 479, frames 334-387)

Archives Office of New South Wales, SydneyState Library of Tasmania, Hobart:

Hobart Town GazetteArchives Office, HobartHocken Library, University of Otago, Dunedin:

Thomas Shepherd. Journal (transcript)NSW. Census of New South Wales, Nov 1828

Auckland Public Library, Auckland:Deed of Purchase (NZMS 774)

Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand, Wellington.Marianne Williams. LettersHenry Williams. LettersWilliam Williams. LettersAllan Cunningham. Diary in New Zealand. Thomas Shepherd. Journal (Micro MS16 & Micro MS17)Hilda McDonnell. Papers (MS-0527)

Archives New Zealand, WellingtonBaron de Thierry’s Agreement (OLC series 1,1045 (Repro 1589)

Further Reading:

Adams, Peter. Fatal necessity. Auckland University Press, 1977.Anderson, Grahame. Fresh about Cook Strait. Methuen, 1984.Andrews, J.R.H. The southern ark. Hutchinson, 1986.Archer, Mildred. Early views of India: the picturesque journeys of Thomas and William

Daniell 1786-1794.Thames & Hudson, 1980.Austin, K.A. The voyage of the Investigator 1801-1803: Commander Matthew Flinders, R.N.

Rigby, 1964.Australian dictionary of biography. Vol.1: 1788-1850.Bateson, Charles. The convict ships 1787-1868. Brown, Son & Ferguson, 1969.Bayne, William. Sir David Wilkie, R.A. Walter Scott Publishing co, 1903.Begg, A.C. and N.C. Begg. The world of John Boultbee. Whitcoulls, 1979.Bell, F. Dillon and Frederick Young. Reasons for promoting the cultivation of the New

Zealand flax. Smith, Elder & Co., 1842.Bennett, George. Wanderings in New SouthWales… Richard Bentley, 1834.Binney, Judith. The legacy of guilt: a life of Thomas Kendall. University of Auckland, 1968.Boultbee, John. Journal of a rambler. Edited by June Starke. Oxford University Press, 1986.Bowden, K.M. Captain James Kelly of Hobart Town. Melbourne University press, 1964.Bowden, Keith Macrae. George Bass 1771-1803. Oxford University Press, Melbourne, 1952.Brown, Diana and Colin Brown. The whaler and the privateer: the story of two ships, 1795-

1807. Letter of Marque Press, 1993.

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Butler, John. Earliest New Zealand: the journals and correespondence of the Rev. John Butler.1927.

Carter, Paul. The road to Botany Bay. Faber, 1987.Chandler, George. Four centuries of banking…the constituent banks of Martins Bank.

Batsford, 1968. Vol 2: the Northern Constituent banks.Checkland, Sydney. The Elgins, 1766-1917. Aberdeen University Press, 1988.Clune,Frank. The viking of Van Diemen’s Land. Angus & Robertson, 1954.Cochrane, Alexander.The fighting Cochranes: a Scottish clan over six hundred years of naval

and military history. Quiller Press, 1983.The Complete East India Pilot, from London to any Part of the Indian & China Seas,

Australia, Van Diemen’s Land, & New Zealand…5th ed. J.W. Norie, 1827.Cooper, Leonard. Radical Jack: the life of John George Lambton, first Earl of Durham: 1792-

1840. Cresset, 1959.Cumpston, J. S. Macquarie Island. Antarctic Division, Dept of External Affairs, Australia,

1968.Cunningham, Allan. The life of Sir David Wilkie. John Murray, 1843.Day, Melvin N. Nicholas Chevalier, artist. Millwood, 1981.Dictionary of national biography. 1908-.Dillon, Peter. Narrative and successful result of a voyage in the south seas…Hurst, Chance &

Co., 1829.Dumont d’Urville, Jules. New Zealand 1826-1827. Translated by Olive Wright. Wingfield

press, 1950.Earle, Augustus. Narrative of a residence in New Zealand. Edited by E.H. McCormick.

Oxford University Press, 1966.Edwards, Doug. Put him in the longboat. GP Books, 1989.Gilbert, Lionel. The Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney: a history 1816-1985. Oxford University

Press, 1986.Griffiths, Percival. A licence to trade: a history of the English chartered companies. Ernest

Benn, 1974.Hackforth-Jones, Jocelyn. Augustus Earle: travel artist. National Library of Australia, 1980.Hainsworth, D.R. The Sydney traders: Simeon Lord and his contemporaries 1788-1821.

Cassell, 1972.Haydon, Benjamin Robert. The autobiography and journals of Benjamin Robert Haydon

(1786-1846). Coward-McCann/MacDonald, 1950.Hazelwood, W.G. Arcadian landscapes: New SouthWales 1820-1850. Camellia News 51

1973.Herd, James. Remarks on the geographical positions of some New Zealand headlands.

Nautical Magazine 1832 (reprinted in New Zealand Journal 1841).Historical records of Australia. Series I. Vol. XIV.Hooker, Brian. The Waitemata Harbour unveiled. NZ Geographer Oct 1986.Howard, Basil. Rakiura: a history of Stewart Island New Zealand. Reed, 1940.Hughes-Hallett, Penelope. Home at Grasmere: the Wordsworths and the Lakes. Collins &

Brown, 1993.Hyams, Edward. Capability Brown and Humphrey Repton. Dent, 1971.Jacques, David. Georgian gardens: the reign of nature. Batsford, 1990.Johnson, David. Wellington harbour. Wellington Maritime Museum Trust, 1996.Kendall, Marjorie. Kissin’ cousins. M. Kendall, 1989.Knox, Ray. Allan Cunningham. New Zealand’s nature heritage. Hamlyns/Whitcoulls, 1974-6.

Part 12.Lee, Jack. Hokianga. Hodder & Stoughton, 1987.

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-----------. I have named it the Bay of Islands. Hodder & Stoughton, 1983.McCormick, E.H. The friend of Keats: a life of Charles Armitage Brown. Victoria University

Press, 1989.McDonnell, Hilda. Trans-Tasman contacts 1817-1827: the Captain Herd connection.

Australia-New Zealand: aspects of a relationship. Stout Research Centre, 1991.MacMillan, Duncan. Painting in Scotland: the golden age. Phaidon, 1986.McNab, Robert. Murihuku and the southern islands. Wiliam Smith, 1907.Maling, P.B. Early charts of New Zealand. Reed, 1969.Manson, Celia and Cecil Manson. Abortive colonising expedition of Captain James Herd.

Dominion 4 Jun 1960.Markham, Edward. New Zealand, or recollections of it. Edited by E.H. McCormick.

Government Printer, 1963.Mr Macleay’s celebrated cabinet: the history of the Macleays and their museum. The Macleay

Museum, University of Sydney, 1988.Murray-Oliver, A. Augustus Earle in New Zealand. Whitcombe & Tombs, 1968.Neale, Ralph. Thomas Shepherd’s dream. Landscape Australia, 1988.New, Chester W. Lord Durham: a biography of John George Lambton, first Earl of Durham.

Oxford, 1929.The New Zealand and Australian encyclopedia. World Reference Library, 1964. 2 vols.Niall, Brenda. Georgiana: a biography of Georgiana McCrae; painter, diarist, pioneer.

Melbourne University Press, 1994.North Carolina Museum of Art. Sir David Wilkie of Scotland (1785-1841). North Carolina

Museum of Art, Raleigh, 1987.Orchiston, D.Wayne. The White Island Crater Valley in 1826. Royal Society of New Zealand

Transactions: General. 1969.Pearce, G.L. The Scots of New Zealand. Collins, 1976.Price, Desmond. Of captains, colonists and convicts. D.F. Price, 1987.Price, Una Shepherd. My family of Shepherds. Una Price, 1988.Raeside, J.D. Baron De Thierry. Caxton, 1977.Ramsden, Eric. James Busby the prophet of viticulture and British Resident at New Zealand

1833-40. 2nd ed. Eric Ramsden, 1941.Reid, Stuart J. Life and letters of the first Earl Durham 1792-1840. Longmans, 1906. 2 vols.Richards, Rhys. The maritime fur trade: sealers and other residents on St Paul and Amsterdam

Islands. Great Circle Apr 1984; Oct 1984.Ross, John O’Connell. William Stewart: sealing captain, trader and speculator. Roebuck,

1987.Ryan, T.M. Lambton’s special colony. Dominion 6 Apr 1990.-------------. Nothing new in 150 years. Dominion 29 Oct 1990.Sadleir, Michael. Blessington-d’Orsay. Folio Society, 1983.Shepherd, Thomas. Lectures on landscape gardening in Australia. William McGarvie, 1836.----------------------. Lectures on the horticulture of New South Wales. William McGarvie,

1835.Shepherd, Thomas William. Catalogue of plants cultivated at the Darling nursery, Sydney,

New South Wales. W. & F. Ford, 1851.Shepherd, Winsome. The Botanic Garden, Wellington. Millwood Press, 1988.Sherrin, R.A.A. and J.H. Wallace. Early history of New Zealand. H. Brett, 1890.Smith, Bernard. European vision and the South Pacific 1768-1850. Oxford, 1960.Smith, E.A. Lord Grey 1764-1845. Clarendon Press, 1990.Steele, J. G.The expolorers of the Moreton Bay District 1770-1830. University of Queensland

Press, 1972 (reprinted 1983).

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Stuart, David C. Georgian gardens. Robert Hale, 1979.Tait, A.A. The landscape garden in Scotland 1735-1835. Edinburgh University Press, 1980.Walker, Carol Kyros. Walking north with Keats. Yale University Press, 1992.Webster, Doug. The Webster branch 1300-1982. D. Webster, 1982.

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Acknowledgements

Help was received from:Una Price, Laura Rosier, Marshall Laird; Phil Barton, John Adam, Ian Nicholson, Jack Lee,Kruzo Phillips, Brian Hooker, Judith Binney, Marjorie Kendall, Mark Bonthrone, RhysRichards, Kathleen Coleridge, Patricia Adams, Melvin Day, Ken Scadden, David Johnson,Linda Seagrave, Paul Penn-Simkins, Valerie Jacobs, Winsome Shepherd, Win Kayes,Kathleen Hollis, Neil Price, Denis Fairfax, Praise Wong, Derek Noble.

And from: the Mitchell Library, Sydney; Dunedin Public Library; Australian Association forMaritime History; Hocken Library; Archives Office of Tasmania; State Library of Tasmania;Auckland Public Library; Barclays Bank Archives; Cumbria Archives; Library of the Houseof Lords; The Society of Genealogists, London; Parliamentary Library, Wellington; NationalGalleries of Scotland; Auckland Institute & Museum; Hydrographic Department, Ministry ofDefence, Taunton, Somerset; Archives Office of New South Wales; Stout Research Centre;Victoria University of Wellington Library; Alexander Turnbull Library/National Library ofNew Zealand; Archives New Zealand.

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Illustrations list for Rosanna text:

1. Thomas Shepherd. 17 coastal sketches, 1826. ML2. Providence. 103 females, 1821. AONSW3. Signature of James Herd. 1822. ANZ4. David Wilkie. Self portrait, 1804-5. NGS5. David Wilkie. The rabbit on the wall. Lithograph, 1882?.6. Sir Thomas Lawrence. Alexander McLeay, 1825. ML7. Sir Thomas Lawrence. Master Lambton, 1825.8. List of Mechanics…1827. AONSW9. Thomas Phillips. John George Lambton, Earl of Durham, 1830? ATL10. John Wakefield & Sons. Banknote. Kruzo Phillips11. Seven character references from Scotland, 1825. AONSW12. James Herd. Captain Herd presents…Sydney Feb 1827. AONSW13. Muster Roll of the Ship Providence 22 Mar 1822. AONSW14. Emigration poster, ship Ann, 1833? Derek Noble15. James Herd. Southern Port, 1826. ATL16. James Herd. Port Oxley, 1826. ATL17. James Herd. Wanganueatara or Port Nicholson, 1826. ATL18. Part of the s.w. side of the Frith of the Thames in New Zealand, surveyed by Captain J.

Herd. J.W. Norie, 1828.19. The Entrance to Jokeengar River surveyed by Captain J. Herd, 1827. J.W. Norie, 1828.20. T. Barnett. Port Nicholson or Wanganuetara, 1826.21. The Complete East India Pilot. 5th editon. J.W. Norie. London, 1827. (Title page). Hocken

Library.22. B.R. Haydon. Wilkie. 1816. Sketch. In Cunningham’s biography of Wilkie?23. Photo of Mrs N. Chevalier. Carte de visite. In ?24. Photo of Thomas Surfleet Kendall. In Kissin’ cousins, by M. Kendall.25. Gottfried Lindauer. Guide Sophia. Auckland City Art Gallery.26. C.F. Goldie. Guide Sophia.27. Photo of Annabelle Webster. In The Webster branch, by D. Webster.