The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-1-

Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura

1. Introduction

Since several thousand years ago, humans have been manufacturing linen, wool, cotton, and silk to be used as

fibrous materials for clothing. In 繊維 (sen’i), which is the word for “fiber,” the Chinese character 繊 (sen) is a unit

for decimal fractions of one ten-millionth (equal to approximately 30 Ǻ), while 維 (i) means “long and thin.” Usually,

fibers are several dozen µ thick, and can range from around one centimeter long to nigh infinite length. All natural

materials, with the exception of raw silk, are between several to several dozen centimeters long and are categorized as

staple fibers. Most synthetic fibers are spun into filaments. Figure 1 shows how a variety of textile product forms are

interrelated.

Short fibers are spun into cotton(spun) yarns, whereas filaments are used just as they are, or as textured yarns by

being twisted or stretched. Fabric cloths that are processed into two-dimensional forms using cotton(spun) yarns and

filament yarns include woven fabrics, knit fabrics, nets, and laces. Non-woven fabrics are another type of

two-dimensional form, in which staple fibers and filaments are directly processed into cloths without being twisted

into yarns. Yet another two-dimensional form is that of films, which are not fiber products and are made from

synthetic materials. Three-dimensional fabrics and braids are categorized as three-dimensional forms. This paper

discusses spinning, or the process of making staple fibers into yarns, and winding, which prepares fibers for weaving.

One-dimensional Two-dimensional Three-dimensional

Natural

materials

Synthetic

materials

Staple fibers

Filaments

Spun yarns

Filament yarns

Woven fabrics

Knit fabrics

Nets

Laces

Non-woven fabrics

Films

Three-dimensional

fabrics

Braids

Fig. 1 Outline of textile products

2. History of textile technology

100,000 – 200,000 years ago.: Neanderthals sew fur clothing using needles made from bones.

Several tens of thousands years ago: Cro-Magnon men use forms of body decoration, such as necklaces and bracelets.

Several thousand years ago: Linen (Egypt), wool (Mesopotamia), cotton (Indus, Inca), and silk (Yellow River region) are

manufactured for use as clothing materials.

Silk Road ～ Age of Discovery: As civilizations engage in interchange, cultivation and growing of cotton, linen, wool, and

silk spread to various parts of the world.

18th century: The British Industrial Revolution prompts mechanization of spinning and weaving.

1530: Johann Jurgen uses bobbins and flyers to achieve simultaneous twisting and winding.

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-2-

1589: William Lee invents the first stocking frame knitting machine.

1733: John Key invents the flying shuttle for weaving machines.

1733: John Wyatt assembles a spinning machine model (under Lewis Paul’s 1738 patent).

1738: Lewis Paul invents the roller drafting method.

1764: James Hargreaves invents the spinning jenny.

1769: Richard Arkwright achieves continuous spinning with a water-powered spinning machine.

1772: Coniah Wood invents the slubbing billy.

1775: G. Krang invents the tricot machine.

1779: Samuel Crompton invents the spinning mule.

1785: Edmund Cartwright invents the power loom.

1798: Joseph-Marie Jacquard invents the Jacquard loom.

1825: Richard Roberts invents the self-acting spinning mule.

1828: John Thorpe invents the ring spinning frame.

1830: Barthélemy Tinmoner invented a sewing machine.

1833: Fales & Jenks Machine Co. releases the ring spinning frame.

1850: Evan Leigh invents the carding machine.

1856: William Henry Perkin invents synthetic dyes.

1863: Isaac William Lamb invents the flat-bed knitting machine.

1873: Tatsumune Gaun invents the garabō spinning machine.

1883: Hilaire de Chardonnet invents artificial nitro-silk.

1883: Mayer invents the circular knitting machine.

1892: Charles Frederick Cross and Edward John Bevan invent viscose rayon.

1938: Wallace Hume Carothers invents polyamide fibers.

1942: John Rex Whinfield invents polyester fibers.

1940s: (Sulzer) gripper looms, nonwoven fabrics, and acrylic fibers are put into practical use.

1950s: Air-jet machines and polyurethane fibers are put into practical use.

1960s: Open-air spinners, water-/air-jet looms, and stretch woven fabrics are put into practical use.

1970s: Various types of modified fibers are put into practical use.

1979: The No. 7-II automatic winder with Mach Splicer® (air splicer for cotton yarn) debuts.

1980s: Friction spinning machines and ultra-fine fibers are put into practical use.

1981: The innovative open-end spinner Murata Jet Spinner (MJS) debuts.

1995: Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. releases the flat-bed knitting machine SWG (no sewing required).

1997: The innovative open-end spinner Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS) and Rieter COM4® compact spinning

machines debut.

1999: Supercritical fluid dyeing equipment and ink-jet printing machines debut.

2005: The high-mix & low-volume textile production winder Arrange Winder® debuts.

2011: Rieter releases the J20 air-jet spinning machine.

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-3-

3. Spinning

3.1. Spinning techniques

Spinning is a process in which an assembly of staple fibers is made into long, thin yarns. Basic spinning processes for

natural fibers include removal of fiber impurities, blending for equalization of fiber quality, parallel arrangement of fibers,

stretching of fiber bundles, and twisting. There are two spinning techniques: one for staple fibers and one for long fibers. By

material, such techniques can be divided roughly into cotton spinning, wool spinning (worsted and woolen), linen spinning,

silk spinning, and tow spinning. Chart 1 shows the states of fibers and functions of each spinning process, and descriptions

of each technique.

Chart 1 Process chart of spinning techniques1)

Basic segment Preparation of raw materials Fiber frame setting Yarn production

Basic processes

Material process

Opening process

Frame setting process

Fine frame setting process

Fore-spinning process

Fine spinning process

Yarn finishing process

State of fibers

Functions Dust removal

Opening Dust removal Blending

Carding (Dust removal, equilibration) Fibrillation

Doubling Combing Drafting

Doubling Drafting

Drafting Twisting Winding

Cotton spinning

Mixing and blowing

Carding Combing Drawing, roving

Fine spinning

Worsted spinning

Selection, washing, drying, oiling

Carding Worsted spinning, washing, drying, top dyeing

Fore-spinning Fine spinning

Woolen spinning

Washing, carbonizing

Reopening, wool opening, blending

Carding Fine spinning

Tow spinning Draft zone system spinning

Drawing, roving

Fine spinning

Linen spinning Scutching Hackling Spreading Carding

Drawing, roving

Fine spinning

Silk spinning Fine roving Draft making Carding Combing Drawing, roving

Fine spinning

Shown in Figure 2 is the cotton spinning process (staple fiber spinning technique), which accounts for the majority of the

market. Figure 3 shows the worsted spinning process.

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-4-

Importing raw cotton

Raw cotton

Mixing and blowing

Ribbon lap machine

Sliver lapSliver

Sliver lap machine Carding

Lap

Ribbon lap

Comber

Sliver

Fine spinnning

Rove

Roving

Sliver

Drawing

Product

Cheese

Cone

Winding

Doubling Twisting Winding Gassing

Reeling Bundling Product Cotton

Dying/Waxing

Fig. 2 Cotton spinning process1)

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-5-

Raw materials

Feeder Washer Feeder Dryer

Oiler

Double actingcylindertype

Card Intermediatefeeder Second

Single-needle type

Flat type

Comber

Dry typeDropneedle

Frame

Back washer

Copeer rollFirst framewashing

bath

Finished frameframe

washing bath

Intermediate feeder Second

Top

Heavy needle type

Heavy needle type

Intermediate feeder

Bobbiner

Framing

Spinning machine

Figure 3 Worsted spinning process (French style)1)

3.2 Spinning machines

Spinning productivity and the quality of resultant yarns depend on how yarns are spun. The functions of spinning

machines include drafting, twisting, and winding. Figure 4 shows the history of spinning machines since they were first

invented in the 16th century, which followed two courses of development: mule spinning machines, which perform twisting

and winding alternately, and ring spinning machines, which perform both simultaneously. At present, ring spinning

machines are almost always chosen for their high productivity, while mule spinning machines may be chosen occasionally

because of the good texture of yarns that they produce.

Figure 5 illustrates the principles of ring spinning machines and mule spinning machines, while Figure 6 is a photo of a

Rieter G35 ring spinning machine.

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-6-

Hand spinning

16th century

1764

Hand spinning wheel

16th century

Hargreaves' spinning jenny

1772

Wood's slubbing billy

1779

Crompton's mule spinning frame

1825～1830

Robert's self-acting spinning mule

Fales & Jenks' ring spinning machine

1833

Arkwright's water-powered spinning machine

1769

Treadle spinning wheel

Figure 4 Development of spinning machines2)

Delivery roller

Thread guide

Traveler

Bobbin

Ring

Ring rail

Faller

Carriage

Front roller

Bobbin

Back roller

Fig. 5 Ring spinning machine and mule spinning machine3)

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-7-

Fig. 6 Rieter G35 ring spinning machine

3.3 Innovative spinning machines

3.3.1 Open-end spinning machines

When twisting a fiber bundle, if yarns are twisted by fixing them at both ends, the yarns on the left and the right will be

twisted in opposite directions. As the twisted yarns are released, however, they will become reversed and untwist (false

twist). Thus, when twisting a filament bundle as in the abovementioned spinning method, it is necessary to twist the yarns

by rotating either the yarns’ winding section or the fiber bundle’s feeding section in order to achieve a real twist (which

does not reverse) (Figure 7 (1)). Because of this, the productivity of open-end spinning is subject to restrictions in many

aspects, including spinning/twisting speed and winding capacity.

Fig. 7 Twisting method

As shown in (2) and (3) of Figure 7, however, if all or part of the fiber bundle is made discontinuous temporarily, such

restrictions may be eliminated. This idea led to the development of the “open-end spinning” technique, and this innovative

spinning method has been put to several practical applications since the birth of rotor-type open-end spinning machines in

Czechoslovakia in 1960. In addition to such rotor spinning machines, two other types of innovative spinning techniques are

currently in practical use: friction and fasciated. Figure 8 shows the principles of each technique. Generally speaking, these

yarns do not compare with ring yarns in terms of quality, but some of them offer properties that are superior to those of ring

yarns.

MJS® and MVS® from Murata Machinery, Ltd. are two of the fasciated spinning machines that have been made available

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-8-

in the market. Figure 9 illustrates their yarn formation principles.

Fig. 7 Rieter R60 rotor spinning machine

Sliver Draft section

Air current

Rotor

Roter-type open-end spinning

YarnDraft section

Fleece separator

Air jet nozzle

Fasciated yarnFasciated open-end spinning

① Card drum② Draft section③Air current④ Porous drum⑤ Parallelization disk

Friction-type open-end spinning

(DREF II model) Fig. 8 Types of open-end spinning techniques3)

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-9-

Fig. 9 MJS® and MVS® yarn formation principle

Fig. 10 Murata Machinery’s MVS® spinning machine VORTEX 861

3.3.2 Other spinning machines

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-10-

Ordinary roves

Roller draft

Yarn spool for winding

Hollow spindle

Cheese

Leesona cover spun method

Pavena methodA: Adhesive fiber bundleB: High draft rangeC: Fiber separation

Continuous adhesionprocess

A: Impregnation deviceB: DryingC: Bobbin

Principle of Pavena method

Feed roller

Strand

Twister Twister

Strand

Feed roller

Self-twist yarn

Single yarn

Example mechanism of self-twist spinning machine

Winding

Moisturizing

Wet draft

False twisting

Drying

Twilo twist-less spinning method

Fig. 11 Other spinning machines3)

Other spinning methods that have been released thus far include twist-less spinning, which does not twist fibers to make

yarns, self-twist spinning, which utilizes false twisting, and cover spun spinning, which uses filaments to fasciate yarns. A

common characteristic among these methods is high productivity. Figure 11 illustrates schematic depictions of such

methods.

3.4 Compact yarns4)

The key technology for compact yarns can be found in the transition from drafting to twisting in conventional ring

spinning machines. With conventional techniques, yarns are drawn into a Y-shape and then twisted. To make compact yarns,

however, the yarns are drawn into an I-shape and twisted so that the yarns do not become flat, thus preventing fibers from

separating to produce napping.

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-11-

Fig. 12 Rieter K44 compacting unit

Compact yarns thus manufactured have an extremely small amount of napping and are glossy and satiny like silk. When

woven, such qualities are manifested as a soft touch and clear expression, such as yarn-dyed shirting without any blur in its

pattern, distinct dobby patterns even on plain clothes, and clear-ribbed corduroy with a soft and delicate feel.

Since 1997, Rieter of Switzerland and Suessen and Zinser of Germany have developed spinning machines for compact

yarns, but Zinser’s models have barely sold, while Rieter has practically acquired Suessen to become the sole

provider/distributor of this technology in Europe. In Japan, Toyota Boshoku Corporation released their compact yarn

spinning machine in October 2002, which has sold favorable in Asia and elsewhere. There has also been an increasing

number of cases of Japanese spinning machine manufacturers responding to this trend by improving their existing spinning

machines.

4. Winders

After being spun and twisted in a ring spinning machine, yarn bobbins are wound by a machine called a winder into

“cone” or “cheese” shapes for convenience of transportation and storage.

Fig. 12 Murata Machinery’s automatic winder No. 7

4.1 Air splicers

In the past, winders joined yarns using a mechanical device called a knotter. The drawback of using the knotter to knot

yarns was that several dozen knots were created on a single yarn, and these sometimes caught on things throughout the

processes of knitting machines or weaving machines. This caused problems that required machines to stop. Also, when such

yarns were made into cloth, the knots caused frays or holes.

In 1979, the air splicer (Mach Splicer®) was developed as an attempt to produce a machine that would join yarns without

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-12-

making knots. Using compressed air to accomplish this, the air splicer became the greatest invention in the history of

winders.

With the Mach Splicer Without the Mach Splicer

Fig. 13 Joints made by the Mach Splicer® and joined yarns

4.2 Arrange Winder®5, 6)

A labor-saving machine in the yarn-dyed fabric production process and a centerpiece of high-mix and low-volume textile

production systems, the Arrange Winder® is capable of winding several yarns of any length and in any order, and it has

been awarded the Prime Minister’s Prize at the 1st Japan Manufacturing Awards.

To manufacture textiles, as many as 5,000 yarns need to be warped, and this process becomes necessary every time color

patterns are changed. Working with smaller lots does not mean less labor, and so this process always incurs a large amount

of costs and time, despite the fact that high-mix and low-volume production for quick delivery is constantly being called for

these days. By performing warping in the order of color patterns that meet customers’ orders and by preparing several

take-up packages beforehand, this system is capable of manufacturing textiles of multiple patterns in the warping process all

at once.

It is necessary to prepare data based on the textiles’ planning and design information and the warp preparation process

beforehand, and to prepare take-up packages by selecting yarns (up to 9 kinds), knotting yarns (using knitters and splicers),

measuring lengths, and winding yarns in the system. The system prepares a specified number of packages by automatically

setting take-up tubes (cones) onto an auto doffer. The packages thus prepared are then set on the creel to wind yarns around

beams, and patterns with colors that differ by warping direction are created, thus preparing multi-pattern and multicolor

textiles all in one process.

This winder is also capable of using recycled residual dyed yarns to create warps, which allows textile designers to

develop designs that no one else can emulate.

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

-13-

Fig. 14 Arrange Winder®

References

1) Textile Engineering I and II and Textile Product Manufacturing 1, compiled by the Japanese Society for the Study of

Textile Industry Education, Jikkyo Shuppan Co., Ltd.

2) History of Engineering 1, translated by Toshio Yamazaki, Hitoshi Hashimoto, and Shigeki Kobayashi, Tokyo Tosho Co.,

Ltd. (1966)

3) Textile Engineering III and IV, compiled by the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, Textile Machinery Society of Japan

(1987)

4) http://www.itochu-tex.net/press_release/03040301.htm

5) http://www.Monodzukuri.meti.go.jp/message1/index.html

6) http://j-net21.smrj.go.jp/seni/06/publicsiken/kohyo/no24-1.html