#̂San Antonio &
Hill Countryp90
Gulf Coast &South Texas
p262
Austinp54
Dallas & thePanhandle Plains
p139
Big Bend &West Texas
p300
Houston &East Texas
p206
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Lisa Dunford,Mariella Krause, Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Texas
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Texas . . . . . . . 4Texas Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Texas’ Top 25 . . . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Month by Month . . . . . . . 26Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Outdoor Activities . . . . . 34Travel with Children . . . . 40Texas BBQ & Cuisine . . . 43Regions at a Glance . . . . .51
AUSTIN . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Around Austin . . . . . . . . . 86Bastrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Lockhart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Highland.Lakes. . . . . . . . . . . 88
SAN ANTONIO & HILL COUNTRY . . . . . 90San Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . 92Around San Antonio . . . 120Natural.Bridge.Caverns. . . 120New.Braunfels . . . . . . . . . . 120Gruene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121San.Marcos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Hill Country . . . . . . . . . . 124Johnson.City.&..Stonewall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Fredericksburg. . . . . . . . . . 125Enchanted.Rock.State.Natural.Area . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Luckenbach. . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Kerrville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Comfort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Bandera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Boerne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Wimberley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
DALLAS & THE PANHANDLE PLAINS . . . . . . . . . . . 139Dallas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . 160North of Dallas & Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Grapevine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Frisco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172McKinney. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Denton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Decatur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173South of Dallas & Fort Worth . . . . . . . . . . . 173Arlington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Waxahachie. . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Glen.Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175West. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Waco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Panhandle & Plains . . . 179Permian.Basin . . . . . . . . . . 180Big.Spring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182San.Angelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Sonora. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Junction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Abilene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Buffalo.Gap. . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Lubbock. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Along.Texas.Hwy.70. . . . . . 195Turkey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Quitaque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Caprock.Canyons..State.Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Palo.Duro.Canyon . . . . . . . 197Amarillo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Canadian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
HOUSTON & EAST TEXAS . . . . . . . . . . . 206Houston . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Around Houston . . . . . . 234Clear.Lake.&.Around. . . . . 234San.Jacinto.Battleground.State.Historic.Site. . . . . . . 235Spring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Sam.Houston..National.Forest. . . . . . . . . . 236Huntsville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Washington County . . . 236Brenham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Round.Top. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238La.Grange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Chappell.Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Washington-on-the-.Brazos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
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Contents
Bryan-College Station . . 240Galveston . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Beaumont & Golden Triangle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250Beaumont . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Big.Thicket..National.Preserve. . . . . . . . 252Orange. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Port.Arthur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Northeast Texas . . . . . . 254Nacogdoches . . . . . . . . . . . 255Tyler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Canton. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257Kilgore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Jefferson. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Caddo.Lake. . . . . . . . . . . . .260
GULF COAST & SOUTH TEXAS . . . . 262The Coastal Bend . . . . . 263Brazosport.Area. . . . . . . . . 263Matagorda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Palacios. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266Aransas.National.Wildlife.Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266Goose.Island.State.Park. . .267Rockport.&.Fulton. . . . . . .268Coastal Plains . . . . . . . . 269Victoria. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269Goliad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Corpus Christi Area . . . 271Corpus.Christi .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 271Port.Aransas. . . . . . . . . . . . 276Mustang.&.Padre..Island.Beaches. . . . . . . . . . 279Corpus.Christi.to..Harlingen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280Lower Gulf Coast . . . . . 281Harlingen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Laguna.Atascosa.National.Wildlife.Refuge. . . . . . . . . . 282Los.Fresnos. . . . . . . . . . . . . 282Port.Isabel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
South.Padre.Island . . . . . .284Rio Grande Valley . . . . . 289Brownsville . . . . . . . . . . . . .289McAllen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293The.Upper.Valley . . . . . . . .296Laredo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297Carrizo.Springs. . . . . . . . . .298Eagle.Pass. . . . . . . . . . . . . .298
BIG BEND & WEST TEXAS . . . . . . 300Big Bend National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301West of Big Bend National Park . . . . . . . . 309Terlingua.&.Study.Butte. . . .309Lajitas.Golf.Resort.&.Spa. . . 312Big.Bend.Ranch..State.Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Central West Texas . . . . 312Fort.Davis.&..Davis.Mountains. . . . . . . . . 313Marfa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316Alpine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Marathon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321El Paso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Van.Horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335Fort.Stockton . . . . . . . . . . . 335Guadalupe.Mountains.National.Park . . . . . . . . . . .336
Texas Today . . . . . . . . . . 340History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342Life in Texas . . . . . . . . . .351Music Scene . . . . . . . . . 358Football! . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . 364
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 370Transportation . . . . . . . 376Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .391
SURVIVAL GUIDE
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURES
Off the Beaten Track: Texas . . . . . . . 32
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . .34
Texas BBQ & Cuisine . . . . . . . . .43
Music Scene . . . . .358 #
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Alpine
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Glass Mountains
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BOQUILLAS CANYON
A sleepy little outpost, Marathon has one claim to fame – the Old Gage Hotel. Choose between Western rooms or adobe casitas (little bungalows); be sure to stop at the White Buffalo Bar. (p321)
MARATHON
Chisos Mountains, Chihuahuan Desert, Rio Grande Valley: this amazing, 1252-sq-mile park has three separate ecosystems. All are covered by 200 miles of trails and 150 miles of back roads. So get going! (p301)
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
Take a dip in the largest spring-fed swimming pool in the state. (p314)
BALMORHEA STATE PARK
Terlingua's ghost town is a must-do. Have a beer on the porch of the general store, Terlingua Trading Co, before you dine at Starlight Theater (or below ground in a kiva); then sleep in luxuriously converted adobe ruins. (p309)
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Fort LeatonState Historic Site
CiboloCreekRanch
Marfa LightsViewing Area
Chinati HotSprings
Sauceda
Toyahvale
Valentine
Candelaria
Ruidosa
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Lajitas
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Shafter
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Off the Beaten Track: Texas
What a fun little town. Visit the old hotel where Giant was filmed, eat at foodie-fave restaurants, watch for alien lights and stay in an old Airstream trailer or other boutique motel. (p316)
MARFA
Marfa is known for avant-garde art: the Chianti foundation, the Ballroom gallery (with outdoor theater to come)... But the Prada installation (an entire fake store) outside of Valentine may be the oddest. (p319)
PRADA
Up at 5000ft in the Davis Mountains you have gorgeous, scenic drives, trails and overlooks. Check out this one-horse town's historic fort, then sleep at the state park's Native American-styled adobe lodge. (p313)
FORT DAVIS
Rte 170 winds up, down and around geological formations as it follows the sinuous Rio Grande between Lajitas and Presido. (p312)
RIVER ROAD
It's a star party! Weekend evenings the observatory hosts nighttime outdoor viewings that use at least one of the amazing telescopes on-site. During the day you can tour the facility. (p313)
MCDONALD OBSERVATORY
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San Antonio &Hill Country
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Gulf Coast &South Texas
p262
Austinp54
Dallas & thePanhandle Plains
p139
Big Bend &West Texas
p300
On the Road
Lisa DunfordCoordinating author; Houston & East Texas Does living in a state for 22 years, marrying a native and learning to speak the language mean someone can become a naturalized Texan? Lisa sure hopes so. Over the years she’s logged tens of thousands of miles exploring her adopted home. She loves cruising the country roads seeing what there is to see – a cow in a bluebonnet field, or an old barnlike dance hall. She’s bought boys drinks at the Continental Club in Austin,
ridden the rides at the State Fair in Dallas and sailed on Corpus Christi Bay. Before becoming a freelance writer, Lisa was a restaurant reviewer and an editor in the features
department at the Corpus Christi Caller-Times newspaper. Now no matter where she roams, she always returns to the patch of riverfront east of Houston that she, her husband and their dogs call home.
Lisa also wrote the Welcome to Texas, Texas’ Top 25, Need to Know, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Outdoor Activities, Travel with Children and Regions at a Glance chapters, as well as the Understand and Survival sections.
Mariella KrauseAustin; San Antonio & Hill Country; Big Bend & West Texas Mariella first fell in love with Austin when she checked out the UT campus during her junior year of high school. After college, she intended to live ‘everywhere,’ but felt so at home in Austin that she accidentally stayed for 15 years. Mariella will always consider Texas home, and she still sprinkles her language with Texanisms whenever possible, much to the amusement of those who don’t consider ‘y’all’ a legitimate pronoun.
Mariella also wrote the Texas BBQ & Cuisine chapter.
Ryan Ver BerkmoesDallas & the Panhandle Plains; Gulf Coast & South Texas Ryan grew up in Santa Cruz, California, the sort of goofball beachtown place that made him immediately love Port Aransas. An itinerant wanderer, he was most at home on the hundreds of miles of Texas backroads he traversed for this book. Whether it was discovering a forgotten town on Texas Hwy 70 or driving to the literal end of the road to (happily!) check out yet another empty Gulf Coast beach, he relished
every click on the odometer.
OUR STORYA beatup old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9834th edition – Jan 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 199 3© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
So you want to do it all but are short on time? Start with three days in Dallas (p140). See the JFK assassination sites downtown and eat in trendy Uptown, then the next day trip out to the historic Fort Worth Stockyards. Heading south out of town on day three, stop in cute little Waxahachie (p175) for a bite before spending two nights in Austin (p54) listening to live music and watching the bats fly.
Stop for a night in the Old West–era town of Gruene (p121), to dance at one of the state’s oldest halls, before continuing on to San Antonio (p91). In two days there you can explore the Alamo and Riverwalk. Then Corpus Christi (p271) is just a three-hour drive south; it’s a good base to kick back for a couple nights and hit the beach at Padre Island National Seashore or Port Aransas.
Afterwards it’s time to turn north for three nights in Houston (p207). NASA’s Space Center Houston is a not-to-miss attraction, as is the museum district. For a third day’s excursion, hikers could trek out to Big Thicket National Preserve; history and sunshine lovers should see Galveston.
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Start your Hill Country adventure with two days in Austin (p54). Don’t miss the Texas State History Museum, a splash in Barton Springs Pool or eating along quirky South Congress Ave before club-hopping.
Next, head out for the countryside to spend two nights in the German town of Fredericksburg (p125); area activity choices include a visit to the Texas wine country, a climb up Enchanted Rock or a musical pilgrimage to Luckenbach.
Enjoy the wandering road, and wild-flowers in spring, as you meander south. Skirt the Guadalupe River and lunch in Kerrville (p130) before overnighting in the cowboy town of Bandera (p134). A trail ride at a local dude ranch and a drink at the 11th St Cowboy Bar are must-dos.
Take time to go antique hunting (or to go caving) in Boerne (p135) on your way to three nights in San Antonio (p92). There you can follow Mission Trail and eat Mexican food to your heart’s content. One night make sure to catch a live local act outside of town at John T Floore’s Country Store in Helotes or at Gruene Hall near New Braunfels – now that’s country.
Coastal Texas1 WEEK
Trade the cities for sunny beaches, small museums, historical towns and some of the state’s best bird-watching. Begin in Galveston (p241), spending two days ad-miring the turn-of-the-20th-century man-sions, exploring the state park and dining and shopping on the Strand.
Follow the coast south, stopping at the fun little Sea Center Texas aquarium and hatcheries in Lake Jackson (p267). Then make your way down to Aransas Nation-al Wildlife Refuge (p266), the best bird-watching site on the Texas coast. Stay a night nearby in the seaside town of Rock-port (p268); in season boat tours depart from here for the endangered whooping crane’s feeding grounds.
Spend a couple of nights at the coastal fishing town of Port Aransas (p276), near the outlet to Corpus Christi Bay, and explore Corpus Christi (p271) or Padre Island Na-tional Seashore, or just laze on a local beach.
Four more hours south finds you for the last two nights in South Padre Island (p284). Be sure to stop at the Birding & Na-ture Center there, as well as trying beach-front horseback riding or water sports.
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Ah, big-city life. Spend three days im-mersed in culture and fine food around Houston (p210). Check out some of the many arts and sciences exhibits in the Mu-seum District, then prowl the eclectic Mon-trose neighborhood for your evening meal. While in town don’t miss catching a show in the Theater District or have a night out clubbing on Washington Ave. After you’ve eaten, drank and shopped yourself silly, escape to the country for a few days.
Book into a B&B and spend the next two nights in the small town of Brenham (p236), home of Blue Bell ice cream (yes, you should tour the factory). From there you can explore the tiny towns of the re-gion, stopping at famous Royer’s Cafe in Round Top (p238) or checking out the lavender farm in Chappell Hill (p239). To the north is the historical site and mu-seums at Washington-on-the Brazos (p239), where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed. While you’re in the area, don’t forget to eat some of the Czech-resident-inspired kolaches (sweet-bread pastries stuffed with savory or sweet filling).
Dallas & Northeast Texas
1 WEEK
Spend two days museum-hopping in Dallas (p141). Be sure to take a break for shopping and dining in the Bishop Arts District, or for braving the huge Galleria megamall.
Then it’s time to head east for small-town pleasures among the pine forests. Be sure to detour down FM 279; the 8-mile stretch of road from Ben Wheeler to Edom (p257) has a surprising number of cafes, artisan shops and live music in the evenings. You can spend the night in nearby Tyler (p256), which is an especially good idea if it’s spring and the azaleas are in bloom – or if you want to see a tiger sanctuary.
From there continue east, pausing for lunch and to see the Rangerette Showcase & Museum and the old oil derricks in the little town of Kilgore (p258). Spending three nights in Jefferson (p258) allows you to peruse the historic town and take excursions. Choose from a canoe ride or a swamp-boat nature trip on sinuous Caddo Lake or a drive to Tex Ritter’s hometown Texas Country Music Hall of Fame in Carthage.
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Off the Beaten Track: Texas
What a fun little town. Visit the old hotel where Giant was filmed, eat at foodie-fave restaurants, watch for alien lights and stay in an old Airstream trailer or other boutique motel. (p316)
MARFA
Marfa is known for avant-garde art: the Chianti foundation, the Ballroom gallery (with outdoor theater to come)... But the Prada installation (an entire fake store) outside of Valentine may be the oddest. (p319)
PRADA
Up at 5000ft in the Davis Mountains you have gorgeous, scenic drives, trails and overlooks. Check out this one-horse town's historic fort, then sleep at the state park's Native American-styled adobe lodge. (p313)
FORT DAVIS
Rte 170 winds up, down and around geological formations as it follows the sinuous Rio Grande between Lajitas and Presido. (p312)
RIVER ROAD
It's a star party! Weekend evenings the observatory hosts nighttime outdoor viewings that use at least one of the amazing telescopes on-site. During the day you can tour the facility. (p313)
MCDONALD OBSERVATORY
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BOQUILLAS CANYON
A sleepy little outpost, Marathon has one claim to fame – the Old Gage Hotel. Choose between Western rooms or adobe casitas (little bungalows); be sure to stop at the White Buffalo Bar. (p321)
MARATHON
Chisos Mountains, Chihuahuan Desert, Rio Grande Valley: this amazing, 1252-sq-mile park has three separate ecosystems. All are covered by 200 miles of trails and 150 miles of back roads. So get going! (p301)
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
Take a dip in the largest spring-fed swimming pool in the state. (p314)
BALMORHEA STATE PARK
Terlingua's ghost town is a must-do. Have a beer on the porch of the general store, Terlingua Trading Co, before you dine at Starlight Theater (or below ground in a kiva); then sleep in luxuriously converted adobe ruins. (p309)
TERLINGUA
PLAN YO
UR TRIP OFF.T
HE.B
EAT
EN.TRACK
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