Map .................................. 417 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like... ..................... 16Month by Month ............. 19Itineraries ........................ 21Regions at a Glance ....... 25
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
Environment ................ 267 Progress Ethiopia has been developing at an astonishing rate. Ieading up to 2013, economic growth has, thanks to a hu
i lt ti l l th fl t k t b
belief systems(% of population)
EthiopianOrthodox Christian
43
Muslim
34
Protestant
19
Traditional
3
Other
1
if Ethiopia w100 people
would be Oromo35would be Amara27would be Somali6
Ethiopian Cuisine By now you’ve read enough of this book to know one thing: Ethiopia isunique. It has a culture that stands apart from all the nations around it;its religious practices are different to all neighbouring nations and itsclimate is the polar opposite to the searing deserts that hem it in. So, wedoubt you’d be surprised to learn that Ethiopian food, and the myriadways in which it’s prepared, is not only some of the most diverse on thecontinent, but also totally different to any other cuisine you may haveencountered.
Plates, bowls and even utensils are replaced by injera, a one-of-a-kindancake of countrywide proportions. Atop its rubbery confines sit deliious multicoloured mounds of spicy meat stews, tasty vegetable curriesnd even cubes of raw beef.
hether it’s the spices joyfully bringing a tear to your eye or the slightly tart taste of the spongy injera sending your tongue aone thing’s for sure, Ethiopian fare provokes a strong reaction in all and
A Land-lover’s Dream Ethiopia’s landscape impresses in both scale and beauty. Travellers are thrilled by the amazing backdrop of canyons, chasms, lakes, savannah plains and high plateaus – not to mention the mesmerisingly desolate Danakil Depression, peppered with an as-tonishing 25% of Africa’s active volcanoes. Lying at the convergence of three tectonic plates, Djibouti o ers a unique geological landscape. The vast salt lake of Lac Assal and the bizarre lunarscape of Lac Abbé are strangely unforgettable. Somaliland wows visitors with its natural beauty, from the superscenic Daallo Escarpment to the seemingly endless beaches that are strung along the coast.
Outdoor Adventures These countries beg outdoor escapade with their larger-than-life, hallucina-tory landscapes. Hiking and trekking in Ethiopia’s Simien and Bale Mountains or Djibouti’s Goda Mountains are obvious choices. Then there are those must-do-be-fore-death moments like swimming with whale sharks in Djibouti’s Gulf of Tad-joura or diving on coral-encrusted wrecks o Djibouti City. Last but not least, Ethio-pia and Somaliland rank among Africa’s best birdwatching destinations, with plenty of endemic species. One thing is sure, you’ll be rewarded with memorable experiences.
In Ethiopia, Djibouti and Somaliland, you’d be hard pressed to find a better combination of nature and culture. The best part is, there’ll be no crowds to hinder the experience.
Welcome to Ethiopia, Djibouti & Somaliland
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
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215GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Addis Ababa Museums Food Nightlife
Museums From your great-great- (repeat endlessly) aunt Lucy in the National Museum to the cultural insights of the Ethnological Museum or the bold and distinctive art of the capital’s numerous
southern Asia and a stash of old-fashioned cafes brewing up what some might say is the best coffee in the world. But good as all that is, it pales compared to the oppor-tunity to dip your fingers into some seriously deli-cious Ethiopian dishes. Oh yes, your tummy will be happy.
Nightlife Addis Ababa is one of the most underrated nightlife capitals of Africa. Sure, there are bars and clubs like those at home by the dozen, but Ethiopia is nothing if not exotic so why not try a night out with a difference? A tej bet, a bar serving tej or honey wine, is a good place to begin. When you’re done, catch some live music (and a deeply Ethiopian cultural im-
regions at a glance
Addis Ababa
15 Addis Ababa (p 30 ) is evolving at a fast
pace. The noisy, bustling capital of Ethiopia is blessed with a balmy climate, with cloudless blue skies for about eight months of the year. It o ers plenty of cul-tural highlights, including the Ethnological Museum and the National Museum. Addis is also famed for its buzzing restaurant scene and night-life, with lots of eateries, bars, galleries and clubs. Delve in! Musicians playing drums at a local wedding celebration
Berbera (Somaliland)
16 Berbera (p 328 ) feels impossibly exotic.
Although only 150km to the east of Hargeisa, this coastal city could not be more dif-ferent from the capital. The history, climate, architecture and atmosphere of the town seem to come from another world. Though in dire need of rehabilitation, the various historic buildings in the centre give an engaging char-acter to the city, as do the big cargo ships in the port. What’s more, Berbera boasts miles of deserted beaches that are great for swimming, relaxing and enjoying ery sunsets.
Daallo Forest & Lookout (Somaliland)
17 One of East Africa’s last frontiers, the
Sanaag is the largest, most sparsely populated and least developed province of Somaliland. Getting there is half the fun and involves a gruelling 4WD trip from the capital. But the rewards are exceptional. The Daallo Forest (p 332 ) is noted for its abundant wildlife. Cross the forest and you’ll reach a lookout at the edge of the es-carpment, with mesmerising views down into the valley. If you’re armed with a sense of adventure and have a taste for rugged travel, you’ll love this area.
Festivals Visitors are often over-whelmed by the sense of devotion that emanates from the incredibly colour-ful festivals held throughout the region. Some are so impressive that it’s worth timing your trip around them. Meskel One of Ethiopia’s most colourful festivals, Meskel is famous for its cross-topped bon res and elaborately dressed clergy (p 20 )
Trekking & Hiking For an unforgettable taste of Ethiopia and Djibouti, grab your kit, lace up your boots and head into the landscape that covers all the geological highs and lows. Bale Mountains The combina-tion of wildlife, scenery and quality facilities makes this a fantastic wilderness destination (p 144 )
Menagesha National Forest F ll th t il th h thi
Dramatic Scenery The Horn of Africa is brim-ming with natural wondersfrom geological oddities to powerfully majestic mountainscapes. Ethiopia, Djibouti and Somaliland have countless places to ready your wide-angle lens for some shutter-blowing compositions. Danakil Depression Truly unique in the world, the sub-sealevel volcanic landscape here is
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ethiopia-djibouti-somaliland-5-cover.indd 2ethiopia-djibouti-somaliland-5-cover.indd 2 7/03/2013 10:30:50 AM7/03/2013 10:30:50 AM
One who hides his ill-ness has no medicine; one who hides his prob-lem has no remedy.
Ethiopian proverb
As long as you stay up to date with your vaccina-tions and take some basic preventive measures, you’d
ave to be pretty unlucky succumb to most of the
lth hazards covered in chapter. Africa certainly
impressive selection al diseases on offer,
much more likely of diarrhoea (in
bank on it), a mosquito
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Insurance Medical insurance is cbut policies differ. Check that the policy includes all the activities you want to doSome specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’ such as white-water rafting, rock climbing and motorcycling. Sometimes even trekking is excluded. Also find out whether your insurance will make payments directly to providers or will reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures (in Ethiopia, Djibouti and Somaliland
s expect pay-ment in cash).
Ensure that your travel in-surance will cover the emer-gency transport required to get you to a hospital in a major city, to better medical facilities elsewhere in Africa, or all the way home, by air and with a medical attend-
essary. If you need medical help, your insuranccompany might be able to help locate the nearehospital or clinic, or yask at your hotel. Igency, contact
Me
Health
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Look out for these icons:
Our author’s top recommendation
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first
Lac AssalThe lowest point on theAfrican continent (p309)
OOO
Lac AbbéStarkly beautiful
lunarscapes (p309)Berbera
A coastal town steepedin history (p328)
Daallo ForestA wildlife-rich forest and
fabulous views (p332)
Las GeelAn open-air gallery
of prehistoric art (p326)
HararA city with a palpablehistorical aura (p184)
Top Experiences ›
LacAssal
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awaits formal UN demarcation.
The international boundaries onthis map serve as indications only.
The Ethiopia–Eritrea border
The self-proclaimed Republic of Somalilandis currently an internationally unrecognised
but de facto sovereign state.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Jean-Bernard Carillet Coordinating Author; Plan Your Trip, Djibouti, Somaliland A Paris-based journalist and photographer, Jean-Bernard is a die-hard Africa lover who never misses an opportunity to explore the continent. He has travelled the breadth and length of Africa for more than two decades now and has been thoroughly enlightened by 23 of its amazing countries. Highlights researching for this edition included exploring the far-flung provinces of Somaliland, drinking fresh camel milk with
Somali friends in the bush around Hargeisa, getting up close and personal with a massive guitar shark off Moucha Island and following the steps of archaeologists in northern Djibouti. Jean-Bernard’s wanderlust has taken him to six continents, inspiring numerous articles and some 30 guidebooks, including Lonely Planet’s Africa and West Africa.
Tim Bewer Northern Ethiopia, Southern Ethiopia, Eastern Ethiopia Growing up, Tim didn’t travel much except for the obligatory pilgrimage to Disney World and an annual lake-side summer week. He’s spent most of his adult life making up for this, and has since visited over 80 countries. After university he worked as a legislative assistant before quitting capitol life to backpack around West Africa. During this trip the idea of becoming a travel writer/photographer was hatched, and
he’s been at it ever since, returning to Africa 10 times in the process. When he isn’t shouldering a backpack somewhere for work or pleasure, he lives in Khon Kaen, Thailand, where he runs a tour company.
Stuart Butler Addis Ababa, Western Ethiopia, Understand Ethiopia, Ethiopia Directory A–Z, Ethiopia Transport Stuart first visited Ethiopia in the early 1990s shortly after the fall of the Derg. He was utterly infatuated with what he saw and has returned to Ethiopia many times since; each time the country has woven its spell on him a little more. Stuart’s travels, both for Lonely Planet and various surf magazines, have taken him beyond Ethiopia, from the coastal deserts of Pakistan to the jungles of Colombia. He now lives in southwest France with his wife and young
son. Find Stuart at www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.
Read more about Tim at:lonelyplanet.com/members/timbewer
Read more about Stuart at:lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutler
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
itineraries Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
Lac Abbé
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Three WeeksThe Grand Tour
Start by spending two full days in fascinating Addis Ababa. Once you’ve had your fill of Addis’ joys, forge east to Awash National Park for some great wildlife watch-ing. Spend a day in the park and continue on to the eastern belle of Harar, whose at-tractive architecture, active markets and unique and unforgettable ambience deserve
at least two days. You might make a half-day stop in Jijiga to recharge the batteries before hopping on a bus to Togo-Wuchale, at the border with Somaliland. From the border it’s an easy taxi ride to Hargeisa. After a day or two recuperating in the laid-back capital of Somaliland, arrange for a car and driver to take you to the fantastic archaeological site of Las Geel and the atmosphere-laden coastal town of Berbera – you’ll need at least two days to do the area justice. Back in Hargeisa, fly to Djibouti City, which merits at least several days for relaxing and exploring. Sign up for a three-day tour taking in Lac Abbé, Lac Assal and the Goda Mountains. Stop for a night on the island of Moucha before flying back to Addis Ababa.
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Addis AbabaDebre ZeyitAdadi Maryam
Lake Hare Sheitan
Key Afar
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SOUTH
Two to Three WeeksSouthern Ethiopia
While most visitors come to Ethiopia because of what’s on offer in the north, it’s just as rewarding to point your compass south. You could start with the impressive rock-hewn church of Adadi Maryam. Then head south to World Heritage–listed Tiya, one of southern Ethiopia’s most important stelae fields. Little is known about their
significance; some of them are engraved with enigmatic symbols, which adds to the sense of mystery. Next stop: Lake Hare Sheitan, some 50km south of Tiya. It’s a circular crater lake filled with deep-green waters – very photogenic.
Southwestern Ethiopia’s largest city, Arba Minch is a good base if you want to explore the nearby Nechisar National Park, where you’ll have good chance to spot gargantuan crocodiles, zebras, Swayne’s hartebeest and the odd Abyssinian lion. From Arba Minch you can also detour up the mountains to see the woven houses and traditional lifestyle in a Dorze village and then continue south and visit the amazing, fortresslike Konso villages, at the gateway to the cultural riches of the Lower Omo Valley.
In Omo, visits to ethnic villages such as those of the Mursi above Mago National Park, the Karo northwest of Turmi and the Daasanach along the mighty Omo River at Omorate will transport you to another world; as will the important markets in Jinka, Dimeka and Key Afar. If you’re lucky, a Jumping of the Bulls ceremony will be happening during your visit.
Slip east for a look at the ‘House of Salt’ and a ‘singing well’ at El Sod before turning north for a night lakeside in modern and orderly Awasa. Then it’s time for some remote trekking amid Ethiopian wolves and superb scenery in Bale Mountains National Park and around Dodola.
See the hot springs and flamingo flocks in Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park before unwinding in a lakeside resort and doing a bit or birdwatching at Lake Langano. Stop at Lake Ziway to see hippos, birdlife and island monasteries. You could spend another night on a lake at Debre Zeyit before returning to the chaos of capital Addis Ababa.
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» (above) Agelgil (goat-skin lunch boxes) for sale, Bahir Dar (p68) » (left) Marabou storks, Lake Ziway (p135)
The historical sights along this loop north of Addis Ababa are monumen-tal in both scale and detail.
After a few days revelling in the chaos of Addis Ababa, head north to palm-fringed Bahir Dar for a day. Spend the next day at Lake Tana exploring some of the lake’s centuries-old island monasteries. Next wander the extensive ruins of crenulated 17th-century castles in Gonder. Looming 100km north, the Simien Mountains are one of Ethiopia’s most stunning national parks – spend a couple of days trekking in this sensational massif and spotting wildlife.
Push on to Aksum where pre-Christian tombs underlie splendid 1800-year-old ste-lae (obelisks). After two days, venture to the 3000-year-old ruins of Ethiopia’s first capital, Yeha, and to the cliff-top monastery of De-bre Damo. Then head south and search out Tigray’s precarious and stunning rock-hewn churches. A short hop to the south is Me-kele, which is the obvious launching pad for the desolate expanses of the Danakil. Back in Mekele, drive south to Lalibela. Its 11 as-tounding rock-hewn churches and myriad tunnels have poignantly frozen 12th- and 13th-century Ethiopia in stone. After three or so days here, it’s back to Addis Ababa.
12 DaysThe Wild West
A journey out into the lush, green west is one for trail blazers. Leav-ing Addis it’s a short and easy drive to Mt Wenchi where a crater lake
and a beautiful day walk awaits. Next head past fields of golden tef (an indigenous grass cultivated as a cereal) and sunshine-bright meskel flowers to the bustling town of Jimma where you can soak up some culture in the museums. A long day’s driv-ing will take you deep into Surma country and the village of Kibish. After a few days of swapping stories with Surmi warriors, head up to the Bebeka Coffee Plantation where you’ll probably be happy to just relax and watch tropical birds in the guesthouse gardens. Drive along misty mountain ridges, and through dense forests and descend into the steamy lowlands to fascinating Gam-bela, home of the Nuer and Anuak peoples as well as herds of antelopes. From Gambela you have two options – complete the loop by heading back to Addis via the low-key towns of Nekemte and Ambo, which makes for a scenic ride blessed with superb mountain vistas, or flying back to Addis from Gambela.
