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All That’s Good in TimeVolume 18, N 8 The Craftsmanship Issue
Watch JournalFeaturing: The Ralph Lauren RL Automotive Skeleton
The Rise of Metiers d’Art. Masters of Movement. Philanthropy: Saving the World’s Forests. The World’s Most Complicated Watch.
Exploring the History and Future of Hand Craftsmanship.
Matthew Cooper
19/05/2015
Patek Philippe
5712_1A
PTC48630
Watch Journal
25/06/2015
298 x 470mm Trim
USA
USA
USA - - Web: 48630
REQUESTED BY:
CRITICAL DATE:
CLIENT:
SUBJECT:
WATCH:
JOB NO:
PUBLICATION:
INSERTION:
SIZE:
LANGUAGE:
COUNTRY:
LOGO CODE:
DATE SIGNATUREART DIRECTOR
COPY WRITER
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
STUDIO
PRODUCTION
ACCOUNT MANAGER
ACCOUNT DIRECTOR
PAGE MAKE-UP APPROVAL DATE SIGNATURE
You never actually own a Patek Philippe.
You merely take care of it forthe next generation.
Begin your own tradition.
Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A
Tel: (1) 212 218 1240patek.com
PTC48630_MENB_125551.indd 1 04/06/2015 11:19
Matthew Cooper
19/05/2015
Patek Philippe
5712_1A
PTC48630
Watch Journal
25/06/2015
298 x 470mm Trim
USA
USA
USA - - Web: 48630
REQUESTED BY:
CRITICAL DATE:
CLIENT:
SUBJECT:
WATCH:
JOB NO:
PUBLICATION:
INSERTION:
SIZE:
LANGUAGE:
COUNTRY:
LOGO CODE:
DATE SIGNATUREART DIRECTOR
COPY WRITER
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
STUDIO
PRODUCTION
ACCOUNT MANAGER
ACCOUNT DIRECTOR
PAGE MAKE-UP APPROVAL DATE SIGNATURE
You never actually own a Patek Philippe.
You merely take care of it for the next generation.
Begin your own tradition.
Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A
Tel: (1) 212 218 1240 patek.com
PTC48630_MENB_125551.indd 1 04/06/2015 11:19
Breguet, the innovator.Tradition 7027
DISCOVER MORE THAN 70 HISTORICAL WATCHES AND CLOCKS IN THIS FIRST AMERICAN EXHIBITIONTO FOCUS ON BREGUET’S PIONEERING INNOVATIONS IN TIMEKEEPING.
BREGUETART AND INNOVATION IN WATCHMAKINGLEGION OF HONOR | LINCOLN PARK | SAN FRANCISCO | SEPTEMBER 19, 2015 – JANUARY 10, 2016
www.breguet.com
SFAM_WatchJournal_234x298.indd 1 31.07.15 14:06
Wempe ChronometerwerkePower Reserve
18K gold, manual winding with stop seconds function and subsidiary second dial. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and screw down crystal case back. 60 hours power-reserve. Water-resistant. Officially tested chronometer to German DIN 8319 standard. From $8500. Exclusively at Wempe.
The glasshütte observatory
home of wempe’s Superlative chronometerwerke
T:18.5 ”
T:11.75”
B:19.0 ”
B:12.25”
Wat
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Wempe ChronometerwerkePower Reserve
18K gold, manual winding with stop seconds function and subsidiary second dial. Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and screw down crystal case back. 60 hours power-reserve. Water-resistant. Officially tested chronometer to German DIN 8319 standard. From $8500. Exclusively at Wempe.
The glasshütte observatory
home of wempe’s Superlative chronometerwerke
T:18.5 ”T:11.75”
B:19.0 ”B:12.25”
Wat
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10263 watch journal sprd_2015-sum_03.indd 2-3 6/12/15 9:06 AM
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUESCALL US – 888.214.6858NEW YORK. TEXT US – 646.760.6644BAL HARBOUR SHOPS. TEXT US – 786.565.6776BEVERLY HILLS. TEXT US – 424.610.8181LAS VEGAS. TEXT US – 702.500.1828AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,
UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE
HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE
BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE
SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE
YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH
THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL
TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO
CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF
FINE WATCHMAKING.
TO BREAK THE RULES,YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.
ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDARIN PINK GOLD.
RO_26574OR_SILVER_469.9x298.5_m.indd 1 13.10.15 10:32
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUESCALL US – 888.214.6858NEW YORK. TEXT US – 646.760.6644BAL HARBOUR SHOPS. TEXT US – 786.565.6776BEVERLY HILLS. TEXT US – 424.610.8181LAS VEGAS. TEXT US – 702.500.1828AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,
UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE
HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE
BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE
SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE
YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH
THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL
TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO
CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF
FINE WATCHMAKING.
TO BREAK THE RULES,YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM.
ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDARIN PINK GOLD.
RO_26574OR_SILVER_469.9x298.5_m.indd 1 13.10.15 10:32
CLIENT:JOB NO.:
SPACE UNIT:PUBLICATIONS:
CONTACT:
DE GRISOGONODEGR-20150902-002 PAGE SPREAD 4CB (B: 19” W x 12.25” H, T: 18.5” W x 11.75” H, L: 17.5” W x 11.25” H)WATCH JOURNAL MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2015ZACHARY GOULKO - (201) 363-0692 X 113 - [email protected]
PDF CREATED BY ZGOULKOPRINT OPTIMIZED FILE
PDF X1A
520 MAIN ST, STE 202FORT LEE, NJ 07024( 2 0 1 ) 3 6 3 - 0 6 9 2
APPROVED DATETRAFFIC/PROOF READERPRODUCTION SUPERVISORDIRECTOR PRINT SERVICESART DIRECTORCOPYWRITERACCOUNT EXECUTIVEACCOUNT SUPERVISORMANAGEMENT SUPERVISORCREATIVE DIRECTORCLIENT
80 70 70 10010.2 7.4 7.4 100 100 100100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 100 10070 70 30 30 100 100 60 70 70 4070 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 3.1 2.2 2.270 40 40 75 66 6650 40 4025 19 19B 0 0 0 0
100 70 30 100 10 25 50 75 90 100100 60 100 70 30 100 60 40 70 4070 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 340 70 40 70 40 40100 60A
3%ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2009
www•degrisogono•com
A B U D H A B I • B A L H A R B O U R • C A N N E S • C A P R I • C O U R C H E V E L • D U B A I • G E N E VA • G S TA A D • K U WA I TLONDON • MOSCOW • NEW YORK • PAR IS • PORTO CERVO • ROME • S T BARTHELEMY • S T MOR I TZ
N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0
BAL HARBOUR BOUTIQUE, 9700 COLL INS AVENUE, BAL HARBOUR, FL , (305) 865 -8765
New Retro
CLIENT:JOB NO.:
SPACE UNIT:PUBLICATIONS:
CONTACT:
DE GRISOGONODEGR-20150902-002 PAGE SPREAD 4CB (B: 19” W x 12.25” H, T: 18.5” W x 11.75” H, L: 17.5” W x 11.25” H)WATCH JOURNAL MAGAZINE - OCTOBER 2015ZACHARY GOULKO - (201) 363-0692 X 113 - [email protected]
PDF CREATED BY ZGOULKOPRINT OPTIMIZED FILE
PDF X1A
520 MAIN ST, STE 202FORT LEE, NJ 07024( 2 0 1 ) 3 6 3 - 0 6 9 2
APPROVED DATETRAFFIC/PROOF READERPRODUCTION SUPERVISORDIRECTOR PRINT SERVICESART DIRECTORCOPYWRITERACCOUNT EXECUTIVEACCOUNT SUPERVISORMANAGEMENT SUPERVISORCREATIVE DIRECTORCLIENT
80 70 70 10010.2 7.4 7.4 100 100 100100 100 60 100 100 70 70 30 30 100 100 60 100 100 100 10070 70 30 30 100 100 60 70 70 4070 70 30 30 100 40 100 40 40 100 10 40 40 20 70 70 3.1 2.2 2.270 40 40 75 66 6650 40 4025 19 19B 0 0 0 0
100 70 30 100 10 25 50 75 90 100100 60 100 70 30 100 60 40 70 4070 30 100 40 40 100 40 100 40 70 40 70 40 40 340 70 40 70 40 40100 60A
3%ISO 12647-7 Digital Control Strip 2009
www•degrisogono•com
A B U D H A B I • B A L H A R B O U R • C A N N E S • C A P R I • C O U R C H E V E L • D U B A I • G E N E VA • G S TA A D • K U WA I TLONDON • MOSCOW • NEW YORK • PAR IS • PORTO CERVO • ROME • S T BARTHELEMY • S T MOR I TZ
N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0
BAL HARBOUR BOUTIQUE, 9700 COLL INS AVENUE, BAL HARBOUR, FL , (305) 865 -8765
New Retro
Old Northeast Jewelers – St. Petersburg & Tampa, FL | Exquisite Timepieces – Naples, FL | Schiffman’s – Winston-Salem, NCRight Time International Watch Center – Denver & Highlands Ranch, CO | Benari Jewelers – Exton & Newtown Square, PA
Danson Jewelers – Hasbrouck Heights, NJ | Bellman Jewelers – Manchester, NH | London Jewelers – Southampton, NYNortheastern Fine Jewelry – Albany & Schenectady, NY | Bassano Jewelry – New York, NY | Jewelry Atelier – Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers – San Diego, CA | Shannon Fine Jewelry – Houston & The Woodlands, TX | Abt Time Boutique – Glenview, IL
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BALL_WatchJournal_SkindiverII_Spread_Nov2015.pdf 1 10/9/2015 2:46:36 PM
Old Northeast Jewelers – St. Petersburg & Tampa, FL | Exquisite Timepieces – Naples, FL | Schiffman’s – Winston-Salem, NCRight Time International Watch Center – Denver & Highlands Ranch, CO | Benari Jewelers – Exton & Newtown Square, PA
Danson Jewelers – Hasbrouck Heights, NJ | Bellman Jewelers – Manchester, NH | London Jewelers – Southampton, NYNortheastern Fine Jewelry – Albany & Schenectady, NY | Bassano Jewelry – New York, NY | Jewelry Atelier – Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers – San Diego, CA | Shannon Fine Jewelry – Houston & The Woodlands, TX | Abt Time Boutique – Glenview, IL
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BALL_WatchJournal_SkindiverII_Spread_Nov2015.pdf 1 10/9/2015 2:46:36 PM
United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, [email protected] w
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United States and Canada - FitzHenry Consulting at (561) 212-6812International - Louis Moinet, Switzerland at +41 32 753 68 14, [email protected] w
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Contents
DEPARTMENTS
16Masthead
18Editor’s Letter
20International Editor’s Letter
22
Founding Publisher’s Letter
24Intelligence
42Happenings
56Profile
Stephen Forsey, Craig Robins, Vincent Perriard
62Collector
Keith Lobo, Paul Altieri
66Play
Gabriel Kreuther, New York
67Stay
Ritz Carlton, Tokyo
68Getaway
Villa Lalique, Alsace
70Necessities
12
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C E L E B R A T I N G 2 6 0 Y E A R SO F U N I N T E R R U P T E D W A T C H M A K I N G
C R A F T I N G E T E R N I T Y S I N C E 1 7 5 5
On September 17th, the 260th day of the year, Vacheron Constantin marked its 260th anniversaryby revealing the most complicated watch ever made.
Never has there been such an extraordinary alignment of legacy, passion and savoir-faire.
Experience our260th anniversary
R E F E R E N C E 5 72 60
WatchJournal_VC14897_260thAnniversary.indd 1 9/28/15 3:29 PM
Contents
FEATURES
86Ralph Lauren
Introducing the RL Automotive Skeleton.
94Style
Dial Design: Architectural and celestial inspiration.
102Philanthropy
The Audemars Piguet Foundation: Dedicated to preserving the world’s forests.
108Feature
Industry executives on modern hand craftsmanship.
114Feature
Breguet’s historic exhibition in San Francisco.
118Feature
Vacheron Constantin creates the world’s most complicated timepiece.
122Substance
The strength of Stainless Steel.
126Manufacture
Exploring hand-finishing at Bovet.
130Legacy
Montblanc’s storied history.
136Guide
Watch Terminology, Top Retailers in the Country, Horological Humor.
14
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Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
Crafted for New Heights
Fully developed and crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Switzerland, the MB R230 combines two of the most important chronometric compli- cations: a chronograph and a revolutionary minute exotourbillon. For precise time setting, the patented Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph can be stopped with the utmost accuracy by an innovative stop-seconds mechanism directly on the balance wheel. This horological highlight takes fine Swiss watchmaking to new heights. Visit and shopMontblanc.com
B:12.25 in
B:9.75 in
T:11.75 in
T:9.25 in
This advertisement was prepared by:Atlas Print Solutions
Client: MontblancCreative: Heritage Exo Tourbillon
MBA-2706Mechanical Size:
Bleed: 9.75’’ x 12.25’’Trim: 9.25’’ x 11.75’’
Color: 4CInsertion Date: 9.11.15
Publication: WatchJournal
SALES AND MARKETINGPublisher
John ClarkinAdvertising Directors
Adriana Gelves Laurel Nuzzo
Events Coordinator Simon Swig
OPERATIONS
Controller Miles Bingham
Finance & Operations Manager Braden Bradford
Executive Coordinator Laurie Sadove
WATCH JOURNAL LLC
Board of Directors Eric Crown
Marc LotenbergAdam Sandow
Founding Publisher
Glen B. Bowen
ADVERTISING & EDITORIAL OFFICEWatch Journal LLC
601 W. 26th Street, Suite 1507 New York, NY 10001
EDITORIALEditor in Chief
Hyla BauerInternational Editor Keith W. Strandberg
Associate Creative Director Michael Ryterband
Designers Aaron Tripp
Taylor GivensEditorial Coordinator
Kay HodgdonEditor at Large Spencer Bailey
Associate Travel Editor Nate Storey
Associate Fashion Editor Courtney Kenefick
Contributing Writer Carol Besler
Creative Consultants Noë & Associates
INTERN
Logan Baker
Chief Executive OfficerMarc Lotenberg
Watch Journal publishes nine issues a year. Watch Journal is a registered trademark of Watch Journal LLC. Copyright 2015, Watch Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction or transmission in whole or in part in any form or by any means without written permission is prohibited. Opinions expressed in Watch Journal are not necessarily those of the publisher. Watch Journal, its affiliates, employees, contributors, writers, editors and publisher accept no responsibility for
inaccuracies, errors or omissions in the information and/or advertisement contained herein. The publisher assumes no responsibility for the claims made by advertisers or the merits of products or services advertised or promoted in Watch Journal. The publisher makes no representations or warranties of any kind, expressed or implied, as to the information, services, contents, trademarks, patents, materials or products included in this magazine. Advertisers and their agencies
assume all liability for advertising content. All images reproduced in Watch Journal have been accepted by the publisher on the condition that such images are reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the photographer and/or other creator and the subject. As such, the publisher is not responsible for any infringement of the copyright or otherwise arising from any publication in Watch Journal.
Printed in the USA. To subscribe, visit us online at watchjournal.com/subscribe. Email: [email protected].
Watch Journal
ONLINE
#watchjournal www.watchjournal.com Twitter: @watchjournal Instagram: @watchjournal
Facebook: facebook.com/watchjournalmagazine
SUBSCRIPTIONSTo subscribe, visit us online at: watchjournal.com/subscribe
One-Year Print and Digital: US: $60 / International: $110 Single issue shipped: US: $15/ International: $30
Digital Only: iPad: $14.99, Digital back issues: $6.99
ISSN N 2325-4130
16
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Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”.
Ref. IW5009: Over 70 years ago, when Antoine de
Saint-Exupéry published his tale of the little prince,
no one could have predicted its resounding global
success. At about the same time, the f irst Big
Pilot’s Watch appeared and immediately became a
classic as well. Today, the history of both book and
watch come together in the Big Pi lot’s Watch
Edition “Le Petit Prince”, limited to 250 pieces. And
just as Saint-Exupéry’s little prince is discovered
anew by every generation, so too are the many
hand-finished details on this superb timepiece. The
embossed stamp of the little prince on the case
back is just one example. It means that this IWC
bears a reference to a literary masterpiece and that
two international successes are united on your
wrist. IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN.
Limited edition of 250 watches, Mechanical movement,
Pellaton automatic winding, IWC manufactured 51111 calibre
(50000-calibre family) , 7-day power reserve when fully
wound, Power reserve display, Date display, Central hacking
seconds, Glucydur® beryllium alloy balance with
high-precision adjustment cam on balance arms, Breguet
spring, Screw-in crown, Sapphire glass, convex,
antireflective coating on both sides, Glass secured against
displacement by drop in air pressure, Special back
engraving, Water-resistant 6 bar, Case height 16 mm,
Diameter 46 mm, red gold with brown calfskin strap
FOR THE PRINCE OF WORDS: A WATCH THAT
LEAVES YOU SPEECHLESS.
WatchJournal_IWC14685_X5AL3.indd 1 9/24/15 1:01 PM
Editor’s Letter
A Personal Touch
The Virtues of Hand Craftsmanship
Visiting the ateliers of fine watchmaking is truly an eye-opening experience. To view first hand master craftsmen and women engraving or polishing the tiniest of watch parts is a true wonder. Passion, patience, and precision are traits that these professionals share in abundance. It is a rare person indeed who has the patience to spend more than a day hand-polishing a tiny part. Steady hands and a dedication to detail are attributes that these men and women have in spades. I’ve tried my hand at guillochage, hand engraving, and putting together watch movements, and can say from experience that it is much more difficult than the professionals make it look. It’s no wonder that the top watchmakers and crafts people have dedicated years of training towards perfecting their skills. In this issue, we celebrate the exquisite craftsmanship of the finest watchmakers. We are thrilled to explore the new Ralph Lauren RL Automo-tive Skeleton timepiece (page 88). The watch is a wonderful example of high watchmaking, craftsmanship, and style. Dials have also been an aspect of cre-ative expression in watchmaking for centuries, in this issue we photograph some of the new standouts in dial design (page 96). We salute the mastery of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers, who have broken a new record by creat-ing the world’s most complicated timepiece (page 120). Our Philanthropy feature this month explores the charitable efforts of one of watchmaking’s greats, Audemars Piguet. The company has dedicated its foundation to forest conservation through environmental protection and youth awareness-raising efforts in many parts of the world (page 104). We applaud their efforts and hope you will too.
—Hyla BauerEditor in Chief
“To view first hand master craftsmen and women engraving or polishing the tiniest of watch parts is a true wonder. Passion,
patience, and precision are traits that these professionals share in abundance.”
18
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DIOR VIII GRAND BAL “PLISSÉ SOLEIL” 36MM.STEEL, DIAMONDS AND MOTHER-OF-PEARL.
EXCLUSIVE “DIOR INVERSÉ 11 1/2” AUTOMATICCALIBRE, 42-HOUR POWER RESERVE.
LIMITED EDITION OF 888 PIECES.
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WatchJournal_CD15047_GBPSblue.indd 1 10/12/15 10:36 AM
International Editor’s Letter
Letter From Switzerland
Taking the Long Term View
When I first moved to Switzerland to cover the watch industry for Watch Journal, one of the hardest things to adapt to was the pace of life here. After having lived in the hustle and bustle of the East Coast, I was shocked to find that no-body ever seems to be in a rush over here. They work hard, but they take the time to enjoy life. I guess when you have villages and castles that have been around for centuries, the long term view becomes your world view. This way of looking at the world pays off well for the watchmakers here. As the economic situation changes, they tend to take it in stride. Sure, the world is a different place today, with the markets in Asia struggling and other regions having eco-nomic troubles. Still, other markets, like the USA, are steadily growing. Established Swiss companies don’t push the panic button, nor do they call out that the sky is falling. They know, based on their long history (remem-ber, they have been through wars, recessions, the quartz crisis and more), that change is the status quo, and as long as they stay the course, working harder and smarter, the vagaries of the worldwide marketplace should take care of themselves. “I have been 40 years in this business and have no reason at all not to be optimistic on the long term,” says Jean-Claude Biver, CEO, TAG Heuer, director of timepieces for the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) Group. Hublot inaugurated its second manufacturing building last week (it’s huge). “When some brands put on the brakes, it’s time for us to accelerate. I love being contrary! It has helped me during my 40 years in the business and I have no intention to stop being a contrarian.” Some people have claimed that luxury is recession-proof, but no one I have ever talked to in the watch industry has had the arrogance to think this.“I don’t think any industry is protected from economic woes,” says Alexander Schmidt, Director and Category Manager, Watches, Montblanc. “The benefit is that the industry is global today, so some markets are up and some are down. That’s definitely an advantage. Even in difficult environments, people will spend money to buy luxury items. For us, at Montblanc, the current eco-nomic situation is really nothing new. Montblanc is very well balanced all over the world; we aren’t dependent on one region.” I admire the approach that the Swiss take, and I’ve decided I am adopt-ing the long view as my view....
— Keith W. StrandbergInternational Editor
“Established Swiss companies don’t push the panic button, nor do they call out
that the sky is falling.” 20
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F o r a n a u t h o r i z e d Z o d i a c r e t a i l e r n e a r y o u ,
p l e a s e c a l l 1 - 8 0 0 - 6 9 9 - 0 5 6 9
Av a i l a b l e a t
w a t c h s t a t i o n . c o m / z o d i a c
SUPER SE A WOLF 68ZO9500 Limited Edit ion
Hour, minutes, seconds, date. STP 1-11
Automatic movement. C.O.S.C. Certif ied.
44mm stainless steel case/100ATM.
BE BOLD. BE PASSIONATE. BE ADVENTUROUS.
Publisher’s Letter
Craftsmanship and Haute Horlogerie
A Quest for Excellence
From design to delivery, brands make their own unique mark in the art and craft of watchmaking. From simple timepieces to extraordinary complications, watch creation employs a level of expertise requiring years of study and work at the bench.
The scope of modern watchmaking ranges from simple watch assembly workshops to genuine timepiece manufactures, which can require 40 or more specialized crafts. Each craft of watchmaking—from internal mechanical move-ments (from simple chronographs to highly complex tourbillons) and external components (watch cases, dials, crowns, buckles and bracelets), all rely on the skills of highly trained specialists.
While most people who buy a high level watch never see the smooth in-ternal workings of their watch, they are usually aware that they are there. And this is one of the main reasons why they are willing to invest in a fine timepiece. They know that skilled craftsmen created their watch and this handcraftsman-ship makes each watch unique. On some watches, apertures in the case will provide glimpses of the movement, including engraved decorations in a variety of designs, including the well-known Côtes de Genéve.
Mechanical movements require the expertise of seasoned watchmakers who have a deep understanding of how all the tiny pieces fit together. Think of it this way: nearly every part in a watch’s movement is necessarily designed to work with another part. Knowing how this all works to produce a fine move-ment requires another set of skills in the process of watchmaking. In move-ment-making, there is almost always an unstated need to create something of perfection in a new and different way than it had been done before. Only when the movement is complete can the case designers and engineers apply their special skills to the external parts of the watch.
Haute Horlogerie usually requires considerable handwork especially after all parts have been produced to create a movement, case and bracelet. Every surface of the movement gets beveled, buffed, or engraved in some man-ner. This is one of the explanations why some watches cost more than others—it’s in the finishing.
Finishing a movement’s parts is often complex and also decorative. To achieve the highest level of operation and durability the watchmaker must reduce friction of the parts by hand polishing, beveling, and buffing beyond what any machine is capable of accomplishing. This work takes many hours of highly skilled labor and it does indeed add significantly to the cost of produc-ing a watch.
The next time someone asks why your watch is so expensive, you’ll know what to say. Cheers!
—Glen B. BowenFounding Publisher
“In movement-making, there is almost always an unstated need to create
something of perfection in a new and different way than it had been done before.”
22
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76°F BELOW ZERO
It is at the coldest and most remote extremities of the planet, visited by expeditions and studied byuniversities but never inhabited by man, that the soul of TUDOR North Flag belongs. A finely honedinstrument, with the fi rst movement developed and produced by TUDOR sheltered within, it is the modernadventurer’s solid companion, beginning a new era in the brand’s history.
TUDOR NORTH FLAGSelf-winding mechanical manufacture TUDOR MT5621 movement, offi cially certifi ed chronometer,non-magnetic silicon spring, approx. 70 hour power reserve. Sapphire case back, waterproof to 100 m,40 mm steel case. Visit tudorwatch.com and explore more. TUDOR Watch U.S.A., LLC. New York
GROWTH STRATEGY
On August 26, 2015, A. Lange & Söhne in-augurated its new manufacturing building in Glashütte, Germany. “The new building is a response to employment growth in recent years and represents an investment in the manufacture’s future,” said Lange CEO Wil-helm Schmid. “The focus was on a modern, energy-efficient building that would offer ap-pealing surroundings and ideal working con-ditions. This will help us further enhance the quality of our watches and optimize our pro-duction processes. All the while, we strive to minimize our ecological footprint and re-source consumption.”
In attendance for the opening ceremony were German Chancellor Dr. Angela Merkel and Saxony’s Prime Minister Stanislaw Til-lich, along with 91-year-old Walter Lange, a member of the founding family. “The new
beginning was not easy, but you and your companions succeeded in securing the manufactory’s top-tier position among the world’s finest watch brands once again,” Merkel said to Lange. “Eastern Germany’s good reputation as innovative, flexible and a modern location is based on success stories like yours.”
alange-soehne.com
ABOVE: Watchmakers at work in the new manufacture
RIGHT: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater
FAR RIGHT: German Chancellor Dr. Angela Merkel at the inauguration
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PERPETUALLY PERFECT
Audemars Piguet recently introduced a new high-complication model into its Royal Oak collection, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calen-dar. The perpetual calendar is believed to have been developed in about 1800. Aude-mars Piguet began producing perpetual cal-endar wristwatches in 1955, making a series limited to nine examples. Over the years, the manufacture has produced a variety of perpetual calendar movements, excelling in ultra-thin calibers. The new self-winding in-house caliber 5134 has been created for the large 41mm case, which has allowed for enhanced readability and aesthetics on the dial. In addition to the day, date, month, and leap year, the moon phase features a highly detailed astronomical moon, and the chapter ring indicates the 52 weeks in the year, with a corresponding central hand.
audemarspiguet.com
RIGHT: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
BELOW: Detail of the dial
OPPOSITE: A view of caliber 5134's components
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DEEP DIVE
For the 35th year of America’s Cup, the most important yachting competition in the world, watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin has col-laborated with Sweden’s Artemis Racing team to release a commemorative Marine Diver watch. The preliminary event to 2017’s race was held on August 28-30 in Gothen-burg, Sweden and also served as the official release of the Marine Diver collaboration. The Marine Diver blends stainless steel and rubber to form a unique watch that is water resistant up to 300 meters. This ultra-func-tional timepiece also offers a 42-hour power reserve, a power reserve indicator, small sec-onds register and a unidirectional rotating bezel to prevent any accidental adjustment to dive time.
ulysse-nardin.com
ABOVE: The Bremont B2 Marine Chronometer next to the Auld Mug
RIGHT: The Ulysse Nardin Artemis Marine Diver
SEAWORTHY
Bremont has unveiled their new B2 Marine Chronometer to celebrate America’s old-est sporting trophy. The America’s Cup, also known as the Auld Mug, is the trophy awarded to the winner of the illustrious America’s Cup yacht race. Bremont, who is the official timing partner to the Ameri-ca’s Cup, has incorporated many exclusive features in the Chronometer, including a skeletonized movement, three time zones, a 30-day power reserve, a 90-day chronograph and a water resistant case. The B2 Marine Chronometer will be limited to a produc-tion of 10 pieces. Completely English made and built either to be attached to the bulk-head of a ship or in its own standalone case, Bremont’s newest creation will surely be the envy of any port.
bremont.com
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NEW AND IMPROVED
Officine Panerai recently revamped its website, adding new and improved functions, as well as an e-boutique offering a selection of watches and accessories for purchase. In addition, on the new site users will have the ability to access a reserved area where their individual preferences and details can be se-curely stored, and create a wishlist for future reference. A new search tool devoted solely to accessories has been added as well, in re-sponse to the growing demand among collec-tors for straps. Extensive information about the timepieces and accessories is available at the touch of a button, and additional as-sistance is available through direct personal contact with Panerai’s concierge service.
panerai.com
ABOVE: The Panerai Radiomir 1940 timepiece
RIGHT: The new site offers advanced features
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HOW GRAND IT IS
Since 1899 the Dolder Grand & Curhaus in Zurich, Switzerland has served as a capital for the finest in luxury lodging and relaxation. Now, known only as The Dolder Grand, the hotel has been awarded the prestigious title of 2016 “Hotel of the Year”. The title was bestowed upon the hotel in an awards ceremony on August 31, 2015 by Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer and Urs Heller, the chief editor of the Swiss edition of French restaurant guide Gault Millau. The two companies have partnered to award the annual distinction since 2006. With balconies that offer spectacular and panoramic views of the Alps, the city of Zurich and Lake Zurich and the hotels’ location in the heart of Switzerland, the Dolder Grand is a worthy recipient. The Dolder Grand is home to “The Restaurant”, which is the highest ranked restaurant in all of Zurich, with two Michelin stars. It also offers an exceptional spa that covers over 4,000 square meters and offers relaxation necessities from Kotatsu footbaths to stand up sunbeds.
carl-f-bucherer.com
RIGHT: Celebrating at the Dolder Grand
BELOW: The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Power Reserve timepiece
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#DontCrackUnderPressure
SEALED AND DELIVERED
Graham recently introduced the newest model in its Chronofighter collection, the Chronofighter Oversize Navy SEAL Foun-dation, a limited edition of 500 timepieces. Built with the Navy SEALS in mind, the au-tomatic chronograph was created to with-stand extreme temperatures and has a 48 hour power reserve. Its dial is decorated with a digitally-produced camouflage pat-tern to avoid detection, and the watch’s caseback is decorated with the red, white, and blue logo of the Navy SEAL Founda-tion. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of each watch will be donated to the Navy SEAL Foundation.
President John F. Kennedy formed the Navy SEALS in 1962, and the elite force trains to operate in the environments of sea, air, and land.
“The Navy SEAL Foundation is humbled by GRAHAM’s generous commitment of support to the warriors and families of Naval Special Warfare through the creation and sale of this very beautiful limited edi-tion timepiece,” said Robin King, CEO of the Navy SEAL Foundation.
graham1695.comnavysealfoundation.org
ABOVE: Navy Seals in action
RIGHT: Front and back views of the timepiece
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Exceptional.The Geneva Watch Auction: TWO7 & 8 November 2015, 5pm La Reserve Hotel, Geneva Viewing 5-7 November For enquiries, contact [email protected] or call +44 20 7901 7916
A fine and rare stainless steel Patek Philippe wristwatch with date and bracelet, original cork box, retailed by Gübelin, Nautilus, ref. 3700/1, manufactured in 1980CHF 20,000-30,000
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OUT OF THIS WORLD
H. Moser & Cie. has taken movement testing to new heights: The manufacture recently boarded the first Swiss parabolic flight with its movements and escapements on board to test them in weightlessness and hyper-gravity environments. In partnership with Precision Engineering AG, Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., led tests aboard the flight on various escapements, including an amplitude test.
After landing safely on earth, Mr. Meylan remarked on the success of the endeavour. "The tests and the pioneering work we have done today will enable us to improve the stability and quality of our timepieces as well as their isochronous performance,” he said. “These results will guide our contin-ued research, and ultimately help us achieve several patent applications. The data and ex-perience gleaned during this experience will enrich our development process for regulat-ing organs."
h-moser.com
RIGHT: Edouard Meyland in weightlessness with a movement
BELOW: Escapements were also tested on board
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CALIBER RM 037
RIGHT: The Louis Moinet Legend Scott Dixon timepiece
BELOW: Scott Dixon in action
PEDAL TO THE METAL
Louis Moinet recently introduced a rac-ing chronograph in partnership with 2008 Indianapolis 500 winner Scott Dixon. The two-pusher automatic chronograph was de-signed with visibility and accuracy in mind. It features high-visibility hands, chrono-graph pushers inset with carbon fiber and a tachymeter scale engraved on the steel and carbon-fiber bezel. “The chronograph we have created is a beautiful combination of great design, innovation, and precision and I am proud to wear it both in and out of my Indy car,” says Dixon. The watch features a 44 hour power reserve and will be produced in a limited series of 365 pieces.
louismoinet.com
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212.463.8898WWW.CVSTOS.COM
CHALLENGE
SEA-LINER
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TURBO CHARGED
Bell & Ross’ series of BR-X1 chronographs has expanded with the limited edition BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon. With only 20 being produced, this timepiece marks a continuation of Bell & Ross’ dedication to horological complication. The watch, at 45 mm, has strong masculine qualities and the aeronautical inspiration that is prevalent in many chronographs. It is available in either an 18-carat rose gold or grade-5 titanium case and with-or-without 46 diamonds en-crusted on the bezel. A rocker monopusher controls the start, stop and reset functions of the chronograph and a thumb rest insert allows for optimized handling. The move-ment within the watch is spectacular with 282 components and 35 rubies. There is also a 100-hour power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 10 o'clock and a 60-second counter at two o’clock. The watch also incorporates a semi-instan-taneous jumping minute hand rather than the traditional sweeping hand. Last, but not least the iconic ampersand of Bell & Ross, impressed on the tourbillon cage, sets the beat for the seconds hand.
bellross.com
ABOVE RIGHT: Detail of the Tourbillon
RIGHT: The BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon
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CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1
BLACK & GOLD – Black titanium
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E V E RY T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N
Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and finest functional elegance blend into
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BOND-ING WITH OMEGA
To celebrate "Spectre," the upcoming Bond film, releasing in November, Omega Watches is introducing the Seamaster 300 “Spectre” Limited Edition Watch. Limited to 7,007 pieces, this great-looking timepiece is water resistant to 300 meters and is powered by the Master Co-Axial caliber 8400.
Daniel Craig, the star of “Spectre” and the most recent Bond films, recently visited Omega’s Villeret manufacturing facility to see the watch being produced. “I think what was so impressive was the fact that these watches are made from the ground up," Craig said. "You start with nothing, and then there’s suddenly a working watch. That’s the beauty of it. To see the engineering that goes into it and the legacy that goes into it, that’s what fascinated me.”
omegawatches.com
RIGHT: Daniel Craig visits with a watchmaker
RIGHT: The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition timepiece
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CULTURE CLUB
The second Chantilly Arts & Elegance Richard Mille drew a crowd of over 13,000 people to the Chateau de Chantilly in Chantilly, France. The weekend event included a polo tournament with top international players organized by Richard Mille ambassador Pablo Mac Donough at the Polo Club de Chantilly, followed by an Argentine barbecue on the picturesque grounds. A spectacular Concours d’Elegance followed, hosting a number of prestige motor clubs including Aston Martin, Jaguar, Ferrari, and Rolls-Royce. The Concours d’Etat “Best of Show” prize went to Mr. Everet Louwman’s 1936 Mercedes 500K Special Roadster. Richard Mille, who is an automobile enthusiast, won the Alain Figaret prize for the finest Formula 1 car, with his BRM H16 lightweight chassis 01 from 1967, a unique model.
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ABOVE: Richard Mille in his BRM H16 from 1967.
BELOW: The assembled crowd admires the automobiles
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TORONTO TIME
The annual Artists for Peace and Justice (APJ) Fundraiser Festival Gala raised over $1.2 million for the organization. The gala event, sponsored by Bovet 1822, was co-hosted by Bovet 1822 owner Pascal Raffy, Dame Helen Mirren, Susan Sarandon, and APJ founder Paul Haggis. Grammy-Award-winning singer-songwriter Beck performed for the enthu-siastic guests and Dame Helen Mirren presented Susan Sarandon with the inaugural Artists for Peace and Justice Award. During the evening, APJ CEO David Belle expressed his gratitude to Bovet 1822 for their generosity, to which Raffy replied, “We should never be ashamed of wealth and success, enjoy it, but it is also our duty to give back. I ap-plaud the true gentlemen and ladies who have joined us in making a difference.” APJ is a non-profit organization that encourages peace and justice and addresses issues of pov-erty around the world.
bovet.comapjnow.com
ABOVE: David Belle, Helen Mirren, Susan Sarandon, and Paul Haggis
RIGHT: The Bovet Recital 11 timepiece
Skeleton Tourbillon ManufactureManual winding. 170 hours power reserve. Silicium Technology.
18 ct rose gold case. Also available in 18 ct white gold.
Limited Edition of 200 pieces.
U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M
B O U T I Q U E S
C a r l s b a d , G e n e v a , I s t a n b u l , M o s c o w , P a r i s , S t - P e t e r s b u r g , B e i r u t , D u b a i , A l m a t y , B e i j i n g , B i s h k e k , K u a l a L u m p u r , S i n g a p o r e , Ta i p e i .
B o c a R a t o nTo w n C e n t e r
5 6 1 - 3 5 3 - 1 8 4 6
M i a m iA v e n t u r a M a l l3 0 5 - 8 3 0 - 1 7 8 6
M i a m i D e s i g n D i s t r i c t1 4 0 N E 3 9 t h S t r e e t
7 8 6 - 2 4 8 - 7 0 0 0
N e w Yo r k5 0 C e n t r a l P a r k S o u t h
2 1 2 - 2 5 7 - 4 9 2 0
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TENNIS, ANYONE?
Collectors and tennis fans gathered for a rare night of virtual tennis with champions Serena Williams and Stan Wawrinka to celebrate the players’ participation in the US Open tennis tournament. The event, sponsored by Audemars Piguet, was held at the Standard Hotel in New York City, overlooking the Hudson river. Williams and Wawrinka, both brand am-bassadors for Audemars Piguet, played in a mixed doubles virtual tennis tournament with the guests. Xavier Nolot, CEO of Audemars Piguet North America, Serena Williams and Stan Wawrinka spoke to the more than 150 assembled guests before the final round of the virtual tournament. For the event, Williams donned the new ladies Millenary time-piece in rose gold with diamond bezel, while Wawrinka wore a rose gold Royal Oak.
audemarspiguet.com
LEFT: The Audemars Piguet ladies Millenary timepiece
BELOW: Stan Wawrinka and Serena Williams
CALIBER RM 60-01 REGATTALIMITED EDITION
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MISSION POSSIBLE
Venice, Italy is familiar turf for award-winning American film director Brian De Palma, and it is also the locale where he received the Jaeger-LeCoultre Glory to the Filmmaker 2015 Award. It happened at the 72nd Venice International Film Festival in September. De Palma had opened seven of his films at the Lido in Venice. “Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud to pay tribute to Brian De Palma with the Glory to the Film-maker Award,” says Daniel Riedo, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “For 10 years our company has supported the seventh art and the Venice International Film Festival through continu-ous promotion of the cinema’s creativity and ingenuity.” De Palma was also honored with a screening of the docu-mentary about him, De Palma, directed by Noah Baumbach and Jake Paltrow. Among De Palma’s films are the original Mission Impossible, Carrie, Scarface, The Untouchables, Raising Cain and Redacted. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a sponsor of the Venice festival and the filmmaker award for many years.
jaeger-lecoultre.com
ABOVE LEFT: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Cordonnet Duetto time-piece
ABOVE RIGHT: Maria Grazia Cucinotta
Enzo Ferrari called it the most beautiful car in the world. Now two new watches pay
homage to Malcolm Sayer’s ground-breaking design. The Bremont MKI and MKII have
been developed in partnership with Jaguar. The dials are inspired by the E-Type’s
tachometer and the winding weight is based on the car’s iconic steering wheel. You
may never own the car, but the MKI and the MKII might just be the next best thing.
ANY rESEMBl ANcE To ThE dAShBoArd oF ThE E-TYpE JAguAr IS purElY INTENTIoNAl.
MKI
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LADIES FIRST
Omega recently unveiled an exhibition of its women’s his-torical pieces at La Triennale in Milan, Italy. The exhibit, entitled “Her Time,” celebrates the rich history of Omega timepieces created for women over the past 100 years. An early and rare Lépine pendant watch in blue enamel with diamond accents is a standout in the assembled pieces. It was created in 1910, two years before the Titanic set sail. Watches representing every decade are included, from 1920’s Art Deco pieces to jewelry watches from the 1960’s and 70’s to the modern classic Ladymatic. The exhibit was officially opened by brand ambassador Nicole Kidman and was celebrated with a gala at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio in Milan hosted by Stephen Urquhart, president of Omega. The “Her Time” exhibit will travel to several cities world-wide, including New York in December, and Los Angeles in spring 2016.
omegawatches.com
RIGHT: A rare pendant watch from 1910
BELOW: Nicole Kidman views the exhibit with Omega president Stephen Urquhart
For men who don’t need GPS
to know where they stand.
Watch Journal - Saxon City - Nov 2015 REV 10/10/15
Saxon OneIt’s our rough edges that testify real character.
The Saxon One with its bold, timeless design lends this conviction a new form: elegant, dynamic, distinctive. And created with exactly that
perfection which has made the predicate “Made in Glashütte” into a world-famous promise of quality.
Saxon One · sweep minute stop chronograph · 6420-04
MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.
TO OBTAIN FURTHER INFORMATION IN NORTH AMERICA, PLEASE CONTACTTutima USA, Inc. • 1-TUTIMA-USA-1 • [email protected] • www.tutima.com
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PORSCHE CELEBRATES ICONIC DESIGN
To celebrate the launch of their new racing-inspired Chro-notimer Collection, Porsche Design and real estate devel-oper Gil Dezer hosted “An Evening of Iconic Design” in their showroom at the yet-to-be-finished Porsche Design Tower in Miami. Dr. Jan Becker, COO of the Porsche De-sign group, and Dezer welcomed over one hundred guests to witness the unveiling of eleven original and stylish chro-nographs. The watches, inspired by the non reflective in-struments in race car cockpits, are coated with seven layers of anti-reflective sapphire crystal to maximize visibility. Also being displayed were several large-scale models of the Porsche Design Tower. The tower, which will be-come one of the tallest buildings in Sunny Isles Beach once completed in 2016, is the first of its kind and has a unique robotic parking garage, in which owners ride with their car up a glass elevator and park in a private garage next to their apartment.
porsche-design.us
LEFT: The Porsche Design Chrono-timer Series 1 Black & Gold
BELOW: Guests viewed models of the Porsche Design Tower
Advertiser: Seiko
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Publication: Watch Journal
Issue: November 2015
Bleed: 9.75" x 12.25"
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COLOR TAG INFO
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MEETING OF THE MINDS
Actor Patrick Dempsey recently visited the TAG Heuer watch manufacture, to experience first-hand the complexi-ties of watchmaking. Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer and President of LVMH’s Watch Division, greeted Dempsey and toured the manufacture with him. Dempsey was particularly impressed with the watchmakers in the ‘ateliers’ and asked many questions as he inspected the watches being created. Dempsey was in Europe for car racing at Spa-Francorchamps in Belgium and at the Nür-burgring in Germany. This past June, Dempsey Motor Racing Team, which is supported by TAG Heuer, finished second in their category at the legendary 24 Hours of Le Mans, finishing 331 laps at an average speed of 205 km/h. tagheuer.com
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OPPOSITE ABOVE: The TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph
OPPOSITE BELOW: Patrick Dempsey tries his hand at watchmaking
BELOW: Jean-Claude Biver, Jack Heuer, Patrick Dempsey
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STEPHEN FORSEY
The Innovator On Pushing The Limits of Possibility.
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At first glance, Stephen Forsey seems out of place in the watch industry. A big Brit, he looks like he would fit in better on a rugby pitch or in a boxing ring.
It just so happens that he is one of watch-making’s brightest stars and best thinkers, helping to push horology into the future. Greubel Forsey, the brand that Forsey started with Robert Greubel, is 11 years old this year.
“We have been able to go even further than we had originally hoped, thanks to the positive reaction from the collectors and by building a highly motivated team,” Forsey says. “Finally one great achievement in my opinion is that we have had the opportunity to bring all our activities together under one roof so as to share the adventure and con-tinue to write Greubel Forsey’s story.”
HISTORY BUFF
Forsey is an avid student of watchmaking history, feeling strongly that you can’t inno-vate unless you know what has come before, and he is adamant about keeping traditional skills alive. “When Robert and I came to-gether to create Greubel Forsey, we believed that there was still great room for improve-ment in watchmaking,” he details. “Our main goal has always been to constantly in-novate while still maintaining the traditional watchmaking techniques to keep them alive. We have always questioned each existing fact and always want to overcome the limits
of what was believed possible. Robert and I noticed when we started to work on our first timepiece that many skills and tech-niques—notably for hand finishing—were no longer practiced. So we were looking already then, fifteen years ago, at the chal-lenge to save these from the dying art aspect of watchmaking skills and techniques.”
FROM RESEARCH TO REALITY
“I love pushing the frontiers of performance through our original research,” he contin-ues. “To see a new invention burst into life and working for the very first time. My fa-vorite projects so far have been: the techni-cal development of the Double Tourbillon 30°, the Invention Piece 1 for its original ground breaking mechanical architecture and the GMT for its architecture. All these timepieces embody the true Greubel Forsey spirit, a passion for research and creativ-
ity applied to a seemingly simple idea and transforming it into an extraordinarily origi-nal timepiece.”
Forsey inherited his father’s and grandfa-ther’s passion for the intricacies of mechan-ics, discovering antique horology through clocks and the mechanical watch at horolog-ical school in London. “Time is invisible but governs our lives,” he says. “The mechanical watch is the finest combination of art, sci-ence and mechanics I have ever found. The fascination of the unique nature of watch-making, mechanics, creativity, artistry, rigor, precision are all important facets of fine watchmaking. The future for watchmaking is very open, the appeal of the mechanical watch is being renewed with a younger gen-eration of enthusiastic collectors and it is up to the industry to continue to bring new and interesting products for the public.”
THE ROAD AHEAD
Today, Forsey is setting his sights into the future. “We will always favor the qualitative and very exclusive approach,” he confirms.
“We wish to continue innovating in high-end watchmaking and always improve our meth-ods of combining modern-day watchmaking with traditional knowledge. We are only at the beginning of the adventure and there is still so much to do... Our strategy will not change: Exceed the limits of the possible.”
—Keith W. Strandberg
“Time is invisible but governs our lives. The
mechanical watch is the finest combination of art, science and mechanics
I have ever found.” —Stephen Forsey
OPPOSITE: Stephen Forsey
ABOVE: The Gruebel Forsey GMT, Quadruple Tourbillon Secret watch
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CRAIG ROBINS
The Developer on His Passion for Watches.
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OPPOSITE: Craig Robins, Photo: Martien Mulder
ABOVE: The Miami Design District's Palm Court, Photo: Robin Hill
Miami’s Design District is one of the city’s most vibrant areas and the man behind its development is Craig Robins, CEO of Dacra Development and a confirmed watch lover.
“Watches are so interesting to me,” Rob-ins explains. “There is so much creativity that goes into watches, I like the combina-tion of engineering and design.
“Cartier has such a classic brand and then there are companies that have inno-vative and interesting ways of doing things, like Hublot, for example,” he continues. “What I like is the mastery that you see in all these different brands. Watches are col-lectible, so you can have all different kinds. They are limited, they are special. As a person who enjoys beautiful things, I find timepieces are objects that go back to the history of the creation of civilization and still resonate today.”
Robins started his career as a developer of properties in Miami’s South Beach in the Art Deco District. In the mid ‘90s, he realized that South Beach needed a place to expand to, so he began to buy property across the bridge in the Design District.
“At first, I saw the Design District as a great historical place, which started with furniture, so I worked hard to get furni-ture back here,” Robins explains. “Furni-ture was perfect to pair with art, which was inspired by Art Basel. The Design Dis-trict became an important creative place,
and other businesses came in. Once it was a cultural hub, I then realized that combining fashion with art and design would be an ideal mix of uses, so that was the next step.
“As we started to bring in fashion, one of the things I thought would be a nice complement to the fashion was to do a contemporary, American version of Place Vendome,” he continues. “This idea that there is one amazing place where you can go to see the most important collection of
watches in the world is an extraordinary thing. We did it in Design District style, with a lot of art and sculpture.”
“I look at collecting watches from the perspective of an art collector—I love the art that is being made now and I focus on that, but if you are a true art collector, that leads you back and you also want impor-tant examples of art that is part of our his-tory,” he says.
“There are watches that are about the mechanics and the uniqueness of the me-chanics, and I find that most interesting,”
he admits. “Then there are sporty and fun watches, and watches with style. All of that is available and appropriate. Then you can go back and collect historical pieces. With watches, there is an artistry that appeals to me.
“Art can be just for the sake of expres-sion, it doesn’t have to work, it doesn’t have a functional purpose,” he continues. “In the case of watch, in comparison to a chair, there is such an important, precise mechanical component, it’s another dimen-sion of design.”
Robins is a Miami native and doing projects in his own backyard has special meaning for him. “I love to be part of a community and the excitement and energy that is in Miami,” he explains. “Our head-quarters are in the Design District. I love having our office in the middle of a project. It’s where I want to spend my time. If you are a positive force in your community, you are a positive force in the world.”
—Keith W. Strandberg
“What I like is the mastery that you see in all these different brands.”
—Craig Robins”
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VINCENT PERRIARD
The HYT Founder on Innovative Watchmaking.
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WATCH JOURNAL
Vincent Perriard is one of the most enthusi-astic and energetic people in the watch in-dustry. Having worked at Audemars Piguet and Concord, Perriard is now the head of HYT, a cutting-edge brand that combines watchmaking with a liquid display. Liquid is usually the bane of watchmaking and, normally, never the twain shall meet, but HYT has found a way to do it successfully.
Perriard started his career in watchmak-ing totally by chance. “I answered a classi-fied ad in the newspaper, and the next day I was in Le Brassus for an interview and the next month I was heading the market-ing of Audemars Piguet with the mission to reposition AP for the year 2000,” he re-members. “The secret for my career has been to never believe I have had success. To me, it’s like happiness… It’s a journey, not a destination.”
CHALLENGING CONVENTION
HYT burst on the watch scene a few years ago with Perriard involved from the start.
“I have always believed that it is important to break the rules, create a paradox,” he says. “Liquid has been the enemy of me-chanics since the beginning of the watch industry, so playing with liquids inside the watch is a surprise, a disruption which cre-ates interest and questions.
“I think HYT is working so well because the watch industry is not so innovative,” he
continues. “People want to own something unique, different and innovative. These are the basic elements of HYT.”
HYT recently announced its partnership with Alinghi for the America’s Cup. “Open-ing up new channels of communication is a must when you grow fast,” he explains.
“Alinghi will help us to do that for the years to come.”
NOT YOUR GRANDFATHER’S WATCH
Perriard is the first to admit that very few people will buy an HYT for their first watch. “The HYT customer loves watches, he has a lot, he loves timepieces which are talking pieces,” he details. “After having purchased 20 watches, he wants to acquire the ultimate innovation using liquid to in-dicate time.”
It’s easy to see that Perriard is having the time of his life working on HYT. “I love my team, the people, traveling, always being in touch with different cultures and
mentalities,” he says. “This is quite enrich-ing. I adore my job. I am the luckiest man on earth. I don’t have the impression it is a job. It’s a passion.”
As a former marketing chief for Aude-mars Piguet, Perriard’s favorite watches, after HYT of course, are his Royal Oak Off-shore Diver and other AP watches. “They are still in my heart,” he admits. “I love when a watch really reflects your attitude, your character. For me, the watch has to be in tune with you—HYT reflects this to me.”
Perriard feels good about the future of the watch industry. “Short term, the future looks shaky and challenging but mid and long term, the weather is good,” he says. “Every decade the Swiss Watch Industry is doubling and this will continue until at least 2030.”
Perriard is often jetting around the world to meet retailers or end consumers for HYT, but when he’s not working, you can usually find him spending time with his wife and his five children—all boys. —Keith W. Strandberg
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“I love when a watch really reflects your attitude, your
character. For me, the watch has to be in tune with you.”
—Vincent Perriard
OPPOSITE: Vincent Perriard
ABOVE: The HYT H2 Aviator
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“You can waste a lot of money on watches that aren't right for your
collection, so do your homework.”
KEITH LOBOEngineer
Engineer Keith Lobo spends his spare time as a philanthropist, an angel investor and a watch collector.
“My very first watch was a $500 Elgin,” he re-members. “I liked the look and the case, and I still have it. I have sold just about everything else, but I keep that watch to remind myself of how small you can start in any kind of collecting.”
It was advice from another collector that resonated with Lobo and affected his collecting style. “He told me to pick something and focus on it - brand, complication, theme, time period and so on,” he says. “The period I like the most is the late-forties to the early-eighties, except for the quartz period. That almost 40-year span was the golden age of Patek. With Rolex, I tend to stay with the watches made from the late-forties to the early-seventies.”
Lobo’s current collection is at about 40 pieces from a high of 100. “Recently, I changed the way I collect,” he acknowledges. “The watches I’m col-lecting now are very rare and hard-to-find. They are particularly interesting to me if I can find out the history of the watch and the background, some-times pictures of the original owner. I am a World War II history nut, and I love pilot’s watches.”
Lobo is determined to wear the watches he col-
lects. When I met with him, he was wearing a Ze-nith Rainbow Flyback (mid-nineties) made for the French Air Force. “Zenith did a reissue, but serious collectors want the original,” he says. “I also have a Universal and some Zeniths made for the Italian Air Force. I have a Tutima from World War II, worn by a Luftwaffe pilot. I have some Lange watches from the World War II era and some U.S. military watches, mostly Elgin and Bulova.
“I am the type of collector who likes to be sur-prised,” he continues. “I can be anywhere in the world and spot a great watch. I was in Tokyo on business and saw a rare Mido, a chrono with no sub-dials. The watch looks very simple but is mechani-cally interesting.” Lobo is attracted to watches by their mechanical complexity and design. “I am an engineer, so I’m fascinated by how much com-plexity can be packed into such a beautiful, small package,” he explains. “I don't service them myself, but I'll open them and check the condition of the movement.”
“Some of the greatest fun I’ve had was during the early days [of collecting] when my budget was tight,” he continues. “You can waste a lot of money on watches that aren't right for your collection, so do your homework.”
Lobo’s favorite in his collection? “My Patek Ref.
5504,” he answers without hesitation. “It's a very rare complication - a split-second chrono with per-petual calendar and moon phase. Not many were made. They have stopped making them, and every serious collector wants one. That's one I will never give up.” —Keith W. Strandberg
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OPPOSITE: Keith Lobo
ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Zenith Rainbow Flyback chronograph made for the French Air Force, Patek Philippe Calatrava, Zenith A. Cairelli chronograph
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“Typically, when a vintage watch comes in, I’ll keep it. One I don’t
have is a Comex, and I don’t have a gold Paul Newman Daytona.”
PAUL ALTIERI CEO, Bob’s Watches
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Avid collector Paul Altieri, CEO of bobswatches.com, bought the company from then-owner Bob Thompson, and proceeded to evolve the business into what it is today. “After I bought bobswatches.com, I started the ‘exchange’ concept as applied to watches, like on the stock exchange, which was kind of revolutionary,” Altieri explains. “The busi-ness model developed on its own, after hearing customers buying and selling pre-owned Rolex watches yearn for a way to get a better deal. I thought, wouldn’t it be great if they could see both prices, the buy price and sell price? They can see our profit margin, which had never been done before. It really resonated with customers and they have really taken to it because it gives them a com-fort level.”
“Some customers will try to buy watches them-selves, going to eBay or Craigslist,” he adds. “We never recommend this to people who are new to buying Rolex watches online, because it’s difficult to determine if something is legitimate. We stand behind every watch we sell, and we certify that ev-erything is genuine. Authenticity and buying from a legitimate source is more important than price.”According to Altieri, 90% of his business is Rolex, because 90% of the business in vintage watches is Rolex. Altieri will buy and sell any fine watch, but
the most activity is in Rolex. “I have been a Rolex fan for 40 years, when I graduated college in 1980, I quickly developed a passion for Rolex, the mys-tique behind it, the craftsmanship,” Altieri explains.
“I love what it means to own and wear a Rolex. It’s a great watch and it’s a great business, and it’s fun. Every day the first thing I put on in the morning is my Rolex and it’s the last thing I take off at night.
“On my wrist right now is the new ‘Batman’ GMT (actually the GMT Master II in steel), with the blue and black bezel,” he continues. “When Rolex first launched this a few years ago, their nickname was the “Bruiser.”
Most of the business bobwatches.com does is in modern watches, but their vintage watch business is growing. “I am more of a collector than a dealer when it comes to vintage,” he admits. “Typically, when a vintage watch comes in, I’ll keep it. One I don’t have is a Comex, and I don’t have a gold Paul Newman Daytona. I have seven or eight Paul New-mans in my collection, but all in steel.”Altieri has about 300 watches in his collection, and he does have some Panerais, Patek Philippe, Tudor and Vacheron Constantin, but his heart lies with Rolex. “I wear my collection occasionally, but my day to day watch is the Batman GMT, because it can take a beating,” he says.
“It’s been very profitable buying and holding vin-tage Rolexes, but you have to know what you are doing,” he continues. “You should always buy from a reputable dealer. Buy the dealer first and the watch second.”
“Sometimes the owners cry in my lobby when they sell their watches,” Altieri continues. “I had a 92 year old man cry when he was handing his watch over, so I told him that if he changed his mind within 90 days, I would sell it back to him.”
—Keith W. Strandberg
OPPOSITE: Paul Altieri
ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Rolex Daytona circa 1971, Rolex Triple Calendar circa 1960, Rolex Sea-Dweller circa 1967
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In Manhattan, where small spaces and pared-down am-biances define the culinary zeitgeist, Gabriel Kreuther’s new eponymous restaurant inside Midtown’s Grace Building feels like a link to an era when white tablecloth dining was in vogue. Of course, the French chef knows a thing or two about dialing up the pomp—previous stints at the Ritz-Carlton’s Atelier and MoMA’s Modern were decorated with Michelin stars. A mobile of crystal storks welcomes guests to his elegant, 95-seat Bryant Park space, designed by New York-based architect Glen Coben. Coben offset reclaimed timber beams from a Vermont barn with floral-print wallpaper, clay-colored banquettes, and a green onyx-lined bar. Fans of the Modern will recognize Kreuther’s Alsatian-tinged cook-ing, which hails from the French-German border region where he was raised. Dishes like sturgeon and sauerkraut tart, Long Island duck with red cabbage, and his beloved
gravlax and trout roe tarte flambée populate the four-course prix fixe menu. The lounge has more casual of-ferings such as oysters and housemade liverwurst. In the transient world of food, a lot has changed since Kreuther last donned his whites in 2013. Yet the chef’s familiar and classical European cooking still feels fresh.
gknyc.com
GABRIEL KREUTHER An Epicurean Oasis in Midtown Manhattan
By Nate Storey
ABOVE: The restaurant lounge.
RIGHT: The onyx-lined bar.
Photos: Courtesy Gabriel Kreuther
GABRIEL KREUTHER 41 West 42nd St. New York, NY
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RITZ-CARLTON TOKYO Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1, Akasaka, Minato-ku Tokyo, Japan 107-6245
TOKYO RISING In Japan's vertical capital, its highest hotel unveils a new Eastern-inspired look.
By Nate Storey
Since the Ritz-Carlton Tokyo first opened in 2007 atop the Midtown Tower, the city’s tallest building and a mixed-use development that houses Tadao Ando’s 21-21 Design Sight museum, it’s been the gold standard for luxury in a city with its fair share of high-end hotels. Fresh off a multi-phase makeover by Spin Design Studio, now it has a palpable sense of place, too. The locally based firm adorned the rooms with Japanese woodwork, kimono-print wallpaper, and carpets that echo the look of bamboo. At the new Club Lounge, four spaces—the reception, garden terrace, dining room, and library—have fans fashioned from cypress trees and floors that resemble stone pathways, a nod to nearby Hinoki Park. Here, Japanese whiskeys come with sweeping views of Mount Fuji. Not everything has been reimagined: the Michelin-starred Hinokizaka, thankfully, still turns out modern takes on Kaiseki, Sushi, Tempura, and Teppa-
nyaki; though the spa now stocks cult skincare label Sodashi and offers treatments with Bakuhan stones from the Shizuoka Prefecture.
ritzcarlton.com
Photos: Courtesy Ritz-Carlton
RIGHT: The Library at the club lounge
BELOW: A guest room
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VILLA LALIQUE A Luxe Getaway in the Heart of Alsace
By Charles Curkin
First there was the haute luxury of the Baccarat in New York, and now another respected French crystal manu-facturer is dipping its toes into the hotel industry. Villa René Lalique, which opened in the Alsace region of France last month, is decidedly more understated than the Baccarat, but no less luxurious. The six-suite prop-erty was built as a personal residence by Rene Lalique in 1920, and has been thoughtfully restyled and repur-posed with help from designers Lady Tina Green and Pietro Mingarelli, whose mood board for the project seems to have been primarily Art Deco motifs. On the property, a new building by noted Swiss architect Mario Botta houses a restaurant and wine cellar headed by Jean-Georges Klein—a chef who has seen three Michelin stars in his career—and sommelier Romain Iltis, who lords over a cellar of 20,000 bottles. It’s sure to become a pilgrimage destination for lovers of Lalique, as his namesake museum and original factory are within walk-ing distance of the Villa. With the urban Baccarat and the bucolic Lalique, what will Steuben have in store when the American glass maker throws its hat into the ring?
villarenelalique.com
Photos: Courtesy Villa LaLique
RIGHT: A marble tub in a guest bathroom
BELOW: The wine cellar is stocked with over 20,000 bottles
OPPOSITE TOP: A king-size bed in one of the villa's six suites
OPPOSITE BOTTOM: Each suite features a grand living room.
VILLA LALIQUE 18 rue Bellevue, 67290 Wingen-sur-Moder, France
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Starting at $129,000
(800) 367-6372
mbusa.com
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THRILL RIDESinger Janis Joplin mused that owning a Mercedes-Benz would lift her spirits when she co-penned the 1970 tongue-in-cheek ballad, “Mercedes Benz.” And why not? The automaker’s all-new MY2016 Mercedes-AMB GT S sports car will put a smile on many faces.
STANDARD LUXURIESWhat are basic features on a Mercedes may make owners of other cars swoon. This model includes Nappa leather interiors, power heated/memory
AMG performance seats, rearview camera and a Burmester Surround Sound system.
SPEED, POWER, HANDLINGThe GT S is powered by a 4.0 bi-turbo V8 engine with an output of 503 hp, 479 lb-ft of torque, which delivers 0-60 time of just 3.7 seconds, .2 seconds faster than the base model. Chances are, Joplin would have been pleased with either.
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CIAO BELLAVBH Luxury, founded by designer Vernon Bruce Hoek-sema in the early 2000’s, is an Italian company to its core. With the headquarters and creative studio based in Rome and the brand's atelier located in Florence it is easy to tell that each bag has been crafted with the heart and soul of top Italian design.
CALL OF DUTY This luxurious, canvas and calfskin traveler bag goes above and beyond the normal duties a day-to-day bag would have. With a muted camouflage print, signaling
a bridge between form and function, the bag will catch the eye of many without being overly flashy. Designed to make everyday travel uncomplicated, the specifically designed cell phone pocket increases ease of access a hundred fold.
ON THE GOThe detachable and adjustable shoulder strap can help transform this piece from chic traveler briefcase to work-ing man’s satchel in seconds.
VBH LUXURY
$2,800
(212) 717-9800
modaoperandi.com
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HITTING A PEAKIn 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first humans to reach the summit of Mount Everest—and they did so in leather Bally boots. Since then, the brand has shifted towards luxury fashion and away from adventure gear, but the quality of their leather goods remains the same.
REACHING NEW HEIGHTSToday, 164 years after its founding, Bally contin-ues to ascend. Fall/winter 2015 marked the second
menswear season for Argentinian-born creative di-rector Pablo Coppola, who has taken the house’s ready-to-wear in a sophisticated-cool, yet decid-edly simple direction.
ON THE RISEThough the label’s ethos continues to lie in its leather goods, the collection’s clothing designs have prospered under Coppola’s direction. This suede jacket is one of many standout outerwear pieces for fall—and proof of their unceasing climb to the top.
BALLY $5750
(844) 442-2559
bally.com
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STERLING REPUTATIONBuccellati has been creating handmade jewelry, flatware and decorative objects since Mario Buc-cellati opened his boutique in Milan, Italy, in 1919. The company is known for its exquisite and fanci-ful designs created in the finest materials.
HEAVY METALThe Buccellati evening clutch is made entirely of sterling silver, with 18 karat yellow gold borders hand engraved with a lacework design. Fine paral-lel lines hand etched into the silver in an allover pattern give the impression of a fine fabric. An envelope-style closure adds to bag’s allure.
ONE AND ONLYThe clutch is a unique piece, Buccellati will only produce one of this exquisite evening bag. Catch it while you can.
BUCCELLATI
$91,000
(212) 717-9800
modaoperandi.com
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TIME HONOREDOftentimes, the term heritage is attached to a fashion brand that lacks legacy—not the case for British footwear brand Church’s. The label’s roots date back as far as 1675 in Northampton, England.
STEP BY STEPSince its inception, Church’s dedication to quality shoes has been unwavering, and continues to be, even after joining the Prada Group in 1999. Each pair takes around 8 weeks and at least 250 manual steps to create.
BUILT TO LASTLike all of Church’s shoes, these cordovan-colored calf leather boots use carefully selected materi-als and implement the Goodyear method, a labor-intensive process that creates waterproof, durable soles. This distinguished technique of construction fashions footwear that stands the test of time, just like the brand itself.
CHURCH’S $660
44-1604-751251
church-footwear.com
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TWIN GIFTSWith headphones, you want to look supercool while grooving to audio of stellar quality. You can check both those boxes with the PRYMA Headphones, handmade in Italy by the World of McIntosh (the makers of high-end speakers Sonus Faber).
COLORS AND MATERIALSThese aren’t headphones in bubblegum colors. Rather they are in synch with luxury Italian design aesthetic and quality. They come in five
distinct designs and hues—Coffee & Cream, Pure Black, Heavy Gold, Rose Gold & Dark Gray and Carbon Fiber.
PLUG INEach set has a removable leather headband, die-cast aluminum ear-cup body and copper and stainless steel buckles, allowing for easy adjustment to your head size and comfort level. All that’s left to do now is to tune in and kick back.
PRYMA $499
(510) 843-4500
pryma.com
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BOKEH BY THE BALTIC SEAHand crafted in Russia, the new Petzval 58 Bokeh Control Art Lens is the first update to the iconic Petzval Lens that was originally designed by Jo-seph Petzval in 1840. The lens features a special Bokeh control ring, that is paired with 58mm focal length, to allow the photographer complete con-trol over the blurred aspect-ratio in their image.
BLACK OR BRAZEN Available in black or brass, the Bokeh Control Ring is customizable with star, hexagon and tear
drop shapes. The lens is compatible with Canon EF and Nikon F mounts and mount adapters for many other cameras are available.
COMING SOONThe lens is perfect for any type of photography, from portrait shooting to busy city streets, the possibilities are endless. The lens will be avail-able online and in Gallery Stores worldwide in May 2016.
LOMOGRAPHIC SOCIETY INTERNATIONAL $749
(212) 529-4353
lomography.com
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BOAT WITH HISTORYThe word kayak is Inuit for a canoe made of a frame covered with animal skins, except for a center opening, and powered using a double-bladed pad-dle. American producer Ocean Kayak has updated this ancient vessel in its product line, including the Scrambler 11.
MODERN COMFORTSThis polyurethane oceangoing boat weighs 47 pounds and is 11.5 feet long and 30 inches wide. The design provides for plenty of legroom (50 inches) and holds up to 350 pounds.
THE EXTRASIt’s those special touches that sailors appreciate. Among them are side-mounted carrying handles, paddle keepers, a deck bungee and a skid plate.
OCEAN KAYAK $1,100
(800) 852-9257
oceankayak.com
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SURF CITYNew York-based architect Tommy Zung, an avid surfer, recently introduced a line of surfboards that combine function with high design. Zung col-laborated with professional surfer Brad Gerlach to combine form with high performance.
BORN IN THE USAThe surfboards are crafted in Southern California, and are available in a range of colors and sizes to suit a variety of surf styles.
HIGH DESIGNThe surfboards join Studio Zung’s “Ride” collection, which also produces bicycles and skateboards. Crafted of polyurethane and fiberglass, the boards are coated in a colored multi-layer resin tint.
STUDIO ZUNG starting at $1200
(212) 343-8391
studiozung.com
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GLOBAL STYLE Jean Schlumberger designed some of the most highly sought after jewelry of the 20th century. His resume includes a client base of global fash-ion icons like Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, and he was responsible for mounting the world-famous Tiffany Yellow Diamond on a brooch called “Bird on a Rock”.
MATCH MADE IN HEAVENSchlumberger began designing for Tiffany & Co. in 1956 and soon had his own workshop within the luxury giant. He is one of only four jewelers that Tiffany has allowed to sign their own designs. NATURE’S DESIGNMuch of Schlumberger’s work was influenced by the natural world around him and this is illustrated in the Daisy bracelet. 18k gold daisies open out-wards and circle the wrist of the wearer, while the pistils of the flowers are filled with stunning, lus-trous diamonds.
TIFFANY & CO.
$45,000
(800) 843–3269
tiffany.com
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MODERN LEGACYDavid Webb’s styles have transcended through stars of yesteryear like Elizabeth Taylor into mod-ern celebrities like Jennifer Lawrence and Beyonce. The company, whose designs most embodied the styles of the 1960’s, gained new ownership in 2014 and is poised to solidify its perch amongst the ti-tans of jewelry.
ARABIAN NIGHTSThe David Webb Shangri-La necklace embeds carved emeralds, oval cabochon turquoise, plati-
num, and diamonds into an 18 karat gold chain. Drawing inspiration from Webb’s fascination with the traditional patterns of the Arabian gulf, this piece was featured at the Doha Jewellry and Watch Exhibition in Qatar last May.
SOCIETY’S JEWELERA retrospective featuring Webb’s designs and his stylistic inspirations was exhibited at the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach, Florida last year, signifying his global reach and dedication to advancing fine jewelry design.
DAVID WEBB
$176,000
(212) 421-3030
davidwebb.com
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YOUR MOVE One way to make your next board game more en-ticing is to play it with a brainy opponent on the Alden Glass Table, which combines glass and acrylic to create a luxe corner for an evening of relaxation, camaraderie or a test of intellect.
A NICE FITThe manufacturer Interlude Home has designed a compact, yet with ample elbowroom, occasional square table that is 29 inches high and measures 30 inches by 30 inches.
CHOOSE YOUR GAMEThe table, available in clear or frosted models, comes with four different tops, including a clear one if you leave game time out of the equation. There are also boards for chess (believed to have come from 7th-century India), checkers (with many variations worldwide) and backgammon (with origins in Byzantine Greece).
ALDEN
$3,750
(203) 445-7617
interludehome.com
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A QUICK NAPNo one needs to convince you to grab a snooze on this stunning camp bed with an accompanying pil-low and a gunmetal criss-cross structure, part of the Bottega Veneta Home Collection. The “bed” of the piece is in the trademark weave that you see on the company’s handbags, wallets and briefcases. The pillow boasts a smooth and soft leather ideal for resting your weary head.
STOWAWAYThe piece is practical too. You can easily fold and store it. When unfolded, protective tips on the legs prevent flooring from being marred.
A STORIED HISTORYRefreshingly, you won’t find the company’s ini-tials on this bed or any of its products, because the 49-year-old Italian luxury brand has a motto, “When your own initials are enough.”
BOTTEGA VENETA
$11,500
(212) 371-5511
BOTTEGAVENETA.COM
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A BIT OF BUBBLYCreated exclusively for St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, the St. Regis Saber by Christofle is a bespoke champagne saber crafted by master silversmiths. The sterling silver handle is decorated with a diamond pattern, while the blade is fashioned of stainless steel.
DON’T TRY THIS AT HOMEWith the purchase of the saber, the St. Regis will offer a master class in champagne sabering for those new to the practice.
PARTY LIKE NAPOLEONNapoleon Bonaparte was known for opening his champagne with a saber. The French general once said, “Champagne: in victory, one deserves it; in defeat, one needs it.”
CHRISTOFLE $25,000
(800) 599-2352
stregis.com
Precise, Refined, Universal. An elegant Chronograph wristwatch with multiple complicationsfor the discerning timepiece collector. Limited annual production of 250 pieces.
WA L D A N WAT C H E S . C O M
Available at East Coast Jewelry Palm Beach 323 Worth Avenue • Palm Beach, FL 33480 • (561) 820-8822Mizner Park 332 Plaza Real • Boca Raton, FL 33432 • (561) 353-5216
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Ralph Lauren Takes Craftsmanship to New Heights With The RL Automotive Skeleton.
Divine Details
OPPOSITE: The RL Automotive Skeleton
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Ralph Lauren is an American icon. He has created a fashion empire, and his clothing and accessories are sought-after throughout the world. However, through all of the success and growth his company has achieved, Lauren has remained personally involved in the every aspect of his business. In fact, ac-cording to Luc Perramond, president and CEO of Ralph Lauren Watches and Jewelry Co., Mr. Lauren is involved in every step of the design and manufactur-ing process of his timepiece and fine jewelry collections, paying attention to the details of every timepiece and every piece of jewelry. It’s this kind of laser focus that Mr. Lauren applies to every part of his business, and why Ralph Lauren Watches and Jewelry is poised for success.
THE CREATION PROCESS
Every watch and every piece of jewelry that Ralph Lauren produces originates from the man himself. From the overall look to the smallest details, Mr. Lauren is intimately involved and no project moves forward without his explicit ap-proval. A case in point is the recently introduced RL Automotive Skeleton. The first open-worked model in the entire Ralph Lauren collection, this is an evo-lution of the Automotive collection that used wood on the dial -- this latest iteration includes a wooden bezel, which is eye-catching and has never been done before in the watch industry. The Automotive Collection was born from the passion Ralph Lauren has for classic cars and drew inspiration from his own vintage cars to create this collection. When you see the new Automotive Skeleton next to Mr. Lauren’s Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe, the design connection is immediately apparent. “I’ve always been inspired by automotive design — the materials, the lines, but also the power and functionality,” says Ralph Lauren. “Cars are like art — moving art — an accomplishment in mechan-ics and precision.” The wood used on the RL Automotive Skeleton’s bezel is the same as that used for the steering wheel and the dashboard of the Bugatti Atlantic, called amboyna burl, it is a beautiful hard wood that is used in vintage autos and fur-
The RL Automotive Collection has been expanded greatly this year, with four additional
references. All are powered by Swiss mechanical movements, the “engines” of these fine
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A view of the RL Automotive Skeleton’s components
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The RL Automotive Chronometer Steel in 45mm and 39mm sizes
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“Ralph Lauren is a kind of filmmaker. He envisions who his consumer is—a man who loves craftsmanship, loves
mechanics, loves the beautiful curves. He can picture the man in the car and he can see this watch on his wrist.”
—Luc Perramond
niture. The Atlantic is an incredibly elegant black car with full curves, and the case of the new skeleton is designed to echo those lines. This wooden bezel is a challenge to incorporate into the 44.8mm black gunmetal steel case. There is an incredible amount of craftsmanship in the choosing and shaping of the wood, and then there is the work involved to fit it into the bezel. It requires the skills of woodworking experts to match the color and grain that Mr. Lauren has speci-fied. Over time, the wood in each watch bezel will gradually age, taking on a distinctive patina, and ensuring that each is piece is unique. The skeleton work on the hand-wound IWC F.A. Jones movement was done ex-clusively for Ralph Lauren by Val Fleurier, complete with blackened bridges and a cut away main plate. The timepiece also features the new RL logo on the dial. According to Perramond, this is a watch that is very dear to Mr. Lauren — he feels that the Auto-motive Skeleton is truly an expression of who he is and his lifestyle, a great translation of his vision. The RL Automotive Collection has been expanded greatly this year, with four additional references. All are powered by Swiss mechanical movements, the “engines” of these fine timepieces in keeping with the Automotive theme. First is the RL Auto-motive Black Steel, which showcases a hand-wound IWC movement in a 45mm black steel case. This special movement is decorated with vertical Côtes de Genève striping and circular graining (perlage). The RL Automotive Black Steel has a bezel made from rare amboyna burl, like the RL Automotive Skeleton. Next is the Automotive Chronometer Steel, available in 39mm and 45mm cases, both fitted with the elm burl enhanced dial that Ralph Lauren introduced when the first Automotive timepieces were created. Both of these watches are powered by a Selita movement that is COSC-certified for superior accuracy. The Automotive Chronograph Steel 45mm, powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre move-ment, also features the elm burl dial, providing an unique backdrop for the chrono-graph subdials, the running seconds and the date. Circling the dial is a tachymeter scale, emphasizing the precision so valued by Mr. Lauren.
Prepairing the wood bezel for the RL Automotive Skeleton
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THE ROAD LESS TAKEN
When Lauren set out to create his own watch collection, he wanted to produce some-thing special, a watch that he, as an astute collector and lover of fine timepieces, would wear himself. So, he set out to source the best movements, to finish the watches like the very best watchmakers and to concentrate on designs that meant something to him. This dedication to the finest craftsmanship was challenging and time-consuming, but Mr. Lauren has always had a long-term vision. “Ralph Lauren is a kind of filmmaker,” Perramond details. “He envisions who his consumer is — a man who loves craftsmanship, loves mechanics, loves the beautiful curves. He can picture the man in the car and he can see this watch on his wrist. It’s very interesting, his design process. He is completely connected to the world of Ralph Lauren, it’s not just another watch, it’s his watch.” “The artistic direction comes directly from Mr. Lauren; he decides that the next collection will be in a certain world – whether it’s New England, Safari, Old Hollywood, Automotive and more,” Perramond says. Ralph Lauren is the quintessential American designer, the ultimate in American cool. In watches, he’s applied his aesthetic to high watchmaking and the result is a unique mix of authentic American style and high-end Swiss craftsmanship. The best of both worlds, Ralph Lauren-style. —Keith W. Strandberg
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The RL Automotive CHronograph
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Dial DesignPhotography by Jens Mortensen
Works of Art For The Wrist.
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Roger Dubuis 18k pink gold Hommage Automatic watch, (888)RDUBUIS, rogerdubuis.com, pocket square by Thomas Pink
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Montre Extraordinaire La Rose watch, (877)552-1833, jaeger-lecoultre.com, scarf by Dior
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Blancpain Women Day Night watch, (212)396-1735, blancpain.com, scarf by Dior
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de Grisogono Piccolina S06 watch, (212)439-4248, degrisogono.com, pocket square by Thomas Pink
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Dior La D de Dior watch, (866)675-2078, dior.com, stole by Pologeorgis
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Zenith Star 33mm watch, (866)675-2079, Zenith-watches.com, fur lining by Pologeorgis
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Bell & Ross Camouflage Diamond watch, (888)307-7887, bellross.com, bag by Dior
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The Audemars Piguet Foundation Supports Conservation and Education Around the World.
Preservation Philosophy
OPPOSITE: In the foothills of the Himalayas, planted trees and shrubs help stabilize the terraces
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Protecting and preserving the surroundings in which they operate has been a tradition at Audemars Piguet since its founding in 1875. The manufacture, situated in Le Brassus in the Jura mountains of Switzerland, is surrounded by lush woodlands, and early on the company took care to avoid damaging the natural habitat. Fast forward to 1992, and the official Audemars Piguet Foundation was formed by then-president Jacques-Louis Audemars. The Foundation seeks to support the conservation of forests all over the world, and also funds programs to raise environmental protection awareness in children. The Foundation works closely with the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), an organization of nearly 1,000 international governmental and non-governmental members, all focused on conservation issues. To date, the Foundation is supporting more that 75 projects globally, with 30 projects in Switzerland. The focus is to serve communities on a very local and personal basis. In Brazil and Namibia, for example, children are taught how to plant trees, the fruit of which can then be sold at local markets. Their teachers are also trained, to be able to continue to educate the community about environmental protection and conservation.
A thriving forest in Borneo
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Jasmine Audemars
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The foundation’s current chairperson is Jasmine Audemars, the daughter of Jacques Louis Audemars. “We have to concentrate on our goals, which are the conservation of the forest and the education of children about the environ-ment,” she explains. “We like to partner with small organizations that really work in the field, we don’t want the money to get lost. It’s very nice to find people who are passionate about their projects and you can really do some-thing for the people who live there.” In India, the Foundation works with the local “People to People” initiative in the provinces of Haryana and Madhya Pradesh. The project includes, among other things, creating tree nurseries with local children, with specially trained teachers to educate the children about horticulture. Over 10,000 children were involved in this groundbreaking initiative. Preservation and reinstating traditional practices in Borneo’s family farms and maintaining the biodiversity of the region are another focus of the Foundation. The “Heart of Borneo” project was launched by the Malaysian and Indonesian governments to maintain the cultural heritage linked to local agricultural and natural resource products such as rice, and is being led by the WWF International, who receive funding from the Foundation. “We want to preserve the environment, and at the same time we want to have a partner-ship with it,” says Audemars. “They go one with the other. What we want is a project where people protect the forest but at the same time people can still go there for their way of life.”—Hyla Bauer
“It’s very nice to find people who are passionate about their projects and you
can really do something for the people who live there.”—Jasmine Audemars
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The Foundation educates children in Borneo BELOW: A nursery grows rosemary in India
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Hand Craftsmanship is Alive and Well in Watchmaking.
The Human Touch
OPPOSITE: The Speake-Marin Kennin-Ji Temple Masters project timepiece
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THE HUMAN TOUCH
At their best, craftsmanship and hand work serve to connect modern day watch-making with its past, reminding us of the rich and varied history that we love. Thankfully, more companies are renewing their focus on traditional craftsman-ship, bringing the techniques and decorative arts back to life. Following are five examples of excellence in attention to decoration, linking watchmaking’s present to its glorious past.
CARTIER
“It is in the Maison’s DNA to work on métiers d’art. As a pioneer, we always want to create and to innovate. Cartier’s creations are a link between ancestral techniques and a contemporary design,” says Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage for Cartier. “Métiers d’art offer the possibility to explore a great field of techniques and colors serving our creations, especially to repre-sent the mythical Panthère. “Cartier has always preserved ancestral know-hows and created new ones,” he continues. “For instance, the gold granulation presented in SIHH 2013 reinterprets a technique invented by Etruscan civilizations in 500 B.C. Another example is the Floral marquetry revealed during SIHH 2014 which was invented by Cartier. Cartier has always been keen on rejuvenating ancestral techniques and the art of filigree was one of them. The first traces of filigree were found in the Royal Tomb of Ur in Mesopotamia in 3000 B.C. This technique, which is registered in the Intangible Cultural Heritage of UNESCO, was unveiled for the first time at SIHH 2015 in a Cartier watch, thanks to the savoir faire of our craftsmen in the Maison des Métiers d’art.”
SPEAKE-MARIN
“In an age of mass production, corporate branding and disposable products, watches such as the Masters project are a reminder of the value of human skill, individual creativity and craftsmanship which ventures beyond art into culture and from commercialization of a product of today into a collectable item which will endure into the future both functionally and aesthetically,” says master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin.
HERMÈS
“Hermès has always been about craftsmanship, which is part of our DNA,” says Philippe Delhotal, Artistic Director of La Montre Hermès: “Craftsmen bring a new approach in terms of creativity and have a specific know-how to highlight our timepieces. It is always a big challenge for them to work on a smaller scale but they appreciate this new field of expression. For Hermès, it is also the op-portunity to present our creativity and singularity.”
The Slim d’Hermès Koma Kurabe watch features a porcelain dial decorated with Japanese Aka-e painting
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The Vacheron Constantin Les Univers Infinis Lizard watch
Detail of the Cartier d’Art Louis Cartier Filigree Panthers Decor watch’s dial in the creation process
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE
“The Rare Crafts (Métiers Rares), as we call them at Jaeger-LeCoultre, enhance the value of the watch, making it an even more exclusive and beautiful object, an object of desire and admiration,” says Stéphane Belmont, Creative Director, Jaeger-LeCoultre. “The artisans work by hand, engraving, enameling and set-ting the ultra-thin watch with precious stones. Their work results in a sophisti-cated object, with a classic and elegant look. The creation of the Master Ultra Thin Squelette collection was inspired by the antique pocket watch from 1828, that is part of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage collection.”
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
“The Métiers d’Art Univers Infinis series had been thought to become a collec-tion in which Vacheron Constantin would showcase its traditional decorative crafts—crafts present within the company’s watches since 1755—with a contem-porary vision,” explains Christian Selmoni, Artistic Director, Vacheron Constan-tin. “To do so, we took our inspiration from Maurits (M.C.) Escher (1898 – 1972), a Dutch artist famous for his experiments with plane-filling techniques, shapes, tessellations and transformations. The challenge has been to re-interpret, re-think M.C. Escher’s designs to present six Métiers d’Art watches forming the ‘Univers Infinis’ collection. “This series really demonstrates Vacheron Constantin’s ability to not only keep such traditional decorative crafts alive, but also to open new doors in cre-ative areas where such crafts can be used with a very contemporary vision, paired with a search for excellence, in both aesthetics and technique,” he concludes. —Keith W. Strandberg
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An Historic Breguet Retrospective Opens in San Francisco.
Time and Design
OPPOSITE: A replica of the Breguet watch created for Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France
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Art and Innovation in Watchmaking, the most comprehensive exhibit of an-tique Breguet timepieces ever assembled in the Americas, recently opened at San Francisco’s Legion of Honor museum. The exhibit, with over 70 vintage timepieces on display, highlights the historical context in which the time-pieces were produced, and features the first automatic-winding watch amidst Breguet’s many horological innovations. The exhibit is categorized into fifteen sections, and showcases over 70 pieces, all highlighting exceptional craftsmanship and chronicling Breg-uet’s watchmaking advancements from the first automatic watch to the ultra-complicated watch made for Marie-Antoinette, Queen of France (a replica of the piece is on display). Breguet’s table clocks, marine chronometers, Art Deco clocks and watches, repeating watches and tourbillons are all artfully displayed in the Legion of Honor, which is also home to over fifty Auguste Rodin sculptures. In the early days of watchmaking, timekeeping presented solutions to fundamental problems of the times, Mark A. Hayek, President & CEO of Breguet, commented at the exhibit’s opening. “The travel clock sold to Napo-leon in 1798 is one of my favorite pieces in the exhibit. It served an essential function of helping him to coordinate his troops. It helps me to imagine what watchmaking was, and look at it from the perspective of today. ” The clock,
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The Rodin Gallery at the Legion of Honor
An alarm watch from 1836 set in a ring, A travel clock sold to Napoleon in 1798
which displays the phases of the moon, the date, month, and day of the week, and is a quarter-repeater, is an early precursor to carriage clocks that were subsequently produced in France in the nineteenth century. Another of Hayek’s favorites is an alarm watch designed to be worn as a ring, with the alarm function deploying a small pin to gently prick the wearer’s finger. The ring, sold in 1836, “shows innovation that broke ground and fascinated me—it actually sticks the finger, if you imagine what that was at that time, it goes way beyond simple watchmaking,” he noted. Abraham-Louis Breguet is best known for his invention of the tourbillon mechanism to counteract the fluctuations in timekeeping caused by the watch’s position, earning a patent for his invention on June 26, 1801. This mechanism was produced and sold only 35 times during Breguet’s lifetime, a clear indi-cation of the complexity of creating this exceptional new regulator. Breguet re-introduced the tourbillon in the 1930s, and tourbillons are at the very heart of high watchmaking at Breguet today. “They are always exceptional and very, very beautiful,” says Hayek. The exhibit also highlights simple watches (those without minute repeaters), and the first watches with winding crowns as opposed to winding keys. “When you look closely at the pieces, especially at the simple watches, we see how contemporary they still are,” says Hayek.
—Hyla Bauer
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Breaking Records
Vacheron Constantin Creates the World’s Most Complicated Watch.
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OPPOSITE: The Vacheron Constantin Ref. 57260 timepiece
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Clockwise from top left: the Ref. 57260’s 12-hour worldtime function, Gregorian number of the week and day, seasonal astronomical function, moon phases function
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Back in the 1930s, there was a competition among wealthy watch lovers to see who could commission the most complicated timepiece. We all know the winner was the Henry Graves Supercomplication from Patek Philippe. Wealthy industrialists commissioning super complicated watches created a charming story, but it was all for the history books, really.
That is, until Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Ref. 57260, the world’s most complicated watch, commissioned by a modern collector. The watch joins the ranks of other commissioned high complication timepieces that Vacheron Constantin has created during its history, including those made for King Fouad 1 of Egypt (1929), King Farouk of Egypt (1946), and Count Guy de Boisrouvray (1948). A unique piece, the new 57260 was in development for eight full years, with a team of three of Vacheron’s master watch-makers collaborating on its creation. The hefty pocket watch is packed with 57 complications, several of which are completely new. Comprised of more than 2800 parts and 31 hands, it weighs a massive 957 grams. The watch is a masterpiece of complications, design, assembly, integration and power management.
The reference number Vacheron Constan-tin created for this piece, Ref. 57260, stands
for the 57 complications and for the 260 years of the brand’s existence.
A sample of the complications in this amazing timepiece include: a double retro-grade rattrapante chronograph, a Hebraic Perpetual Calendar, Westminster Chiming,
Alarm and Special Night-Silence feature, a 12-hour second time-zone governed by a digital world-time display, a dual function perpetual calendar (either Gregorian or ISO 8601), a fully visible armillary sphere tourbillon, a star chart with the night sky and the constellations visible from the owner’s home city, Equation of Time and much more.
There are so many complications, in fact,
that the watch has to have two dials, front and back, to display all the information that the watch provides. It measures an impressive 50.55 mm thick, and 98 mm in diameter.
No price has been specified for this incredible timepiece. The Graves Super Complication recently sold at auction for $24 million, so certainly the 57260 piece will retain considerable value.
Is there another collector out there, ready to commission an even more complicated watch? We’ll have to wait and see.—Keith W. Strandberg
Clockwise from top left: the Ref. 57260’s 12-hour worldtime function, Gregorian number of the week and day, seasonal astronomical function, moon phases function
The reference number Vacheron Constantin
created for this piece, Ref. 57260, stands for the 57 complications
and for the 260 years of the brand’s existence.
A 360-degree view of the Ref. 57260
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Steel YourselfThe Appeal of Steel’s Strength and Durability in Watchmaking.
OPPOSITE: The Cvstos Challenge Chrono II
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Steel is one of the most ubiquitous metals in our daily lives. Not only do we use steel to cook and eat with, it’s around us everywhere, including on our wrists.
Without a doubt, stainless steel is the favorite material for watches, as it’s strong, durable, corrosion resistant and relatively inexpen-sive (compared to titanium, gold and platinum).
WHAT IS STEEL?
Steel is an alloy of iron with car-bon and other elements, and is used in many applications, including buildings, automotive panels, signs and appliances. How-ever, steel is prone to rusting, so steel is protected from rusting by several methods, including internal alloying (stainless steel, for exam-ple) and coatings.
There are over 3,200 differ-ent grades of steel and at least 57 grades of stainless steel, which is an alloy that has a higher percentage of chromium (10–20%). For watchmak-ing, one grade is used most – 316L stainless steel, often called surgical steel. 316L is an extra low carbon grade of 316. All 300 grade steels include nickel and for 316, molyb-denum is added, which improves resistance to salt water corrosion.
PLATINGS AND COATINGS
Coloring steel is possible via heat-treating (that’s how many brands blue their hands, for example), but heating can adversely affect the corrosion resistance. So, for many years, steel has been protected and colored by platings and coatings. In the past, gold plated watches were very popular, as they provided the
look of gold at a reasonable price. Gold plating is achieved by depos-iting a thin layer of gold onto the steel. The thicker the gold plating, the deeper the gold color and the higher the cost.
BLACK OUT
Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a way to coat steel with a material that can protect and color it. Dia-mond Like Carbon (DLC) is one of the materials that is applied to the steel via PVD. The most common is black coating, giving the steel a dif-ferent look.
Steel is a dependable and beau-tiful material for watches, making fine timepieces tough and afford-able. —Keith W. Strandberg
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The Glashütte Senator Observer
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OPPOSITE: The Cvstos Challenge Chrono IIThe Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase
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The Glashütte Senator Observer
The Devil is in the Details
Talking Finishing with Bovet’s Pascal Raffy
OPPOSITE: The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier BraveHeart timepiece
A lot of work goes into a fine timepiece, but finishing represents the most time-consuming aspect of the production of a watch. Finishing is where all the various pieces and parts are decorated, polished, angled, beveled and otherwise “finished” so the watch can be as spectacular as possible. One of the watch brands that does an amazing job of finishing, and puts this prowess on display in most of their timepieces, is Bovet. I caught up with Bovet’s owner and CEO Pascal Raffy recently.
How important is the finishing to Bovet? Why?
When the Bovet brothers manufactured their first pocket watches, the watchmaking world discovered a new definition of dexterity in watchmaking arts. Grand Feu enameling, of course, brought fame to the Maison from its foundation in 1822. But Edouard Bovet was also one of the first to decorate the entirety of the movement’s components and surfaces, and ever since then, the quality of the details and their finishes have been recognized as the ultimate reference—to such an extent that the first “showcased” movements are attributed to Edouard Bovet with the invention of the transparent case back. Over two centuries of existence, our Maison has
continually put decorative watchmaking arts at the heart of each timepiece we produce. I personally attach great importance to sustaining the métiers d’art and the unparalleled expertise of our artisans. In preserving and fostering values of excellence despite fleeting trends and fashions, we have been able to exhibit the noblest expression of time since 1822. As true luxury is found in the attention devoted to the smallest of details, the decoration and finishes of our movements and timepieces are of the utmost importance.
How much time does the f inishing require?
This depends on the nature of the component to be decorated and the type of finish, but no compromises are made in terms of aesthetic or technical quality.
For instance, some components require less than an hour to be produced and be functional, while we set aside two whole days for the artisanal finishes that meet our quality criteria.
Are there specialized tools involved?
The craftsman’s hand and traditional tools already in use at the dawn of the 19th century make up most
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The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier; VIrtuoso IV timepiece
of the technologies we use for decoration and finishing work. However, we do occasionally use certain modern machines when they enable us to achieve our quality standards (particularly for producing circular graining and Côtes de Genève).
What are the different types of f inishing?
All the traditional ancestral techniques are represented in our workshops: Circular graining, sunray brushing, snailing, straight graining the flanks, satin brushing, polishing sinks, chamfering, black polishing, rounding-off, guillochage, Clous de Paris, Côtes de Genève and, of course, hand engraving, which is present in all the movements that we manufacture.
Is the goal different with each type of f inishing?
Of course, each type of decoration has its particular scope of application. The aim is to enhance the volumes of the movement and to create contrasts between the different surfaces of the various components.
How experienced do the artisans have to be to do the type of f inishing you require?
Experience and expertise are acquired over time. This is even truer when it comes to the métiers d’art. This means that we can’t demand the same degree of experience of an artisan who has just left art college as of one who has decades of practice. Everyone has their own place in our workshops and their different stages create positive synergy. Over and above experience, we expect a passion for the trade, attention to detail and a love of haute horlogerie from our artisans. This is what enables each of us to surpass ourselves, to overcome our own limits and help the decorative watchmaking arts to progress with the utmost respect for tradition.
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Do customers and collectors value the f inishing?
Collectors and connoisseurs of artisanal fine watchmaking distinguish a haute horlogerie timepiece from an outstanding timepiece precisely by the standard of its finishing work. For those with less watchmaking knowledge, this is the principal explanation given to help them distinguish an exceptional timepiece from the rest.
Has the style and way f inishing is done changed at all over the years?
In most cases, we use traditional haute horlogerie finishing styles and methods, particularly those responsible for the success of our Maison since its foundation. If we take the iconic example of Fleurisanne engraving which has graced our movements and cases since 1822, this has been interpreted in various different ways. This is occasionally the result of technical considerations, or more generally, the personal interpretation of each artisan. When it comes to innovation, if a new type of finish enables us to achieve excellence while respecting tradition, I will adopt it.
What makes Bovet stand out from the crowd, in terms of f inishing?
We have always followed our own path, adhering to the quality criteria that characterize us. When I bought Bovet in 2001, decorative arts were not as popular as they are today. However, I continued to preserve the soul of our Maison by ensuring trades such as engraving and miniature painting endured, even though at the time they were at a high risk of completely dying out. It’s the coherence of this long-term vision as well as the total absence of compromise on quality that has best defined the identity of Bovet since 1822. —As told to Keith W. Strandberg
The movement of the Bovet Mille Fleurs timepiece
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The Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph
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Montblanc
Evolution in Time
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1858At the age of 18, Charles Ivan Robert creates a
“Watchmaking Comptoir” at his family home in Villeret in the watchmaker valley of St. Imier, which will
later become the Minerva manufacture.
1902Launch of Minerva manufacture calibers
including pocket watches with an anchor escapement and others with a cylinder escapement.
1908Development of the first Minerva 19” pocket watch
chronograph caliber 19-09. The Manufacture rapidly gained recognition as one of Switzerland’s most revered specialists in
chronometric functions for precise time measuring.
You might recognize the name Montblanc for its superlative writ-ing instruments. Montblanc was established in Hamburg, Germany in 1906 and has evolved from producing only fine writing instruments into other luxury goods. The iconic Montblanc emblem is now a symbol of excellence in leather, accessories fragrances, sunglasses and more. In 1997, Montblanc opened its watchmaking division in Le Locle, Switzerland, and in 2008, the brand took over the famous Minerva manu-facture in Villeret, Switzerland. The legacy of Montblanc is now intertwined with the history of Minerva.
montblanc.com
The Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle
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1858At the age of 18, Charles Ivan Robert creates a
“Watchmaking Comptoir” at his family home in Villeret in the watchmaker valley of St. Imier, which will
later become the Minerva manufacture.
1902Launch of Minerva manufacture calibers
including pocket watches with an anchor escapement and others with a cylinder escapement.
1908Development of the first Minerva 19” pocket watch
chronograph caliber 19-09. The Manufacture rapidly gained recognition as one of Switzerland’s most revered specialists in
chronometric functions for precise time measuring.
1923Invention of one of the first chronograph calibers
for wristwatches in the 1920s, caliber 13/20 with Breguet hairspring and anchor escapement.
1936Launch of the 1/100th-of-a-second timer with
the central second hand rotating one revolution per second. The Minerva timepieces were used as the official
timekeeping instrument at the Winter Olympics Games in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany.
1948Launch of the legendary Minerva Pythagoras caliber. The construction of the movement’s bridges is done
according to the golden ratio. Its design codes, which epitomized classical Swiss fine watchmaking, serve
today as the inspiration and basis for the design of the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Collection.
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1997 Foundation of the Montblanc Manufacture in Le
Locle. The Manufacture is housed in an Art Nouveau villa built in 1906, the same year Montblanc
was established in Hamburg, Germany.
2008Montblanc takes over the Minerva manufacture in
Villeret. Montblanc’s Movement & Innovation Excellence Center is located in the same building in which the legendary
Minerva Manufacture was founded in 1858 and focuses on the development, prototyping and assembly of all in-
house movements from innovative and groundbreaking high complications to small highly functional complications.
2014Presentation of the Metamorphosis II. One of the most
complex timepieces ever developed in Montblanc’s manufacture workshops in Villeret: A watch with
two faces and two different functionalities. The first face of the Metamorphosis is that of a classical watch, the
second face is that of a sporty monopusher chronograph.
2015Launch of the Heritage Chronométrie collection. Inspired by the legendary Minerva Pythagorus timepiece, it unites
the fundamental virtues of fine watchmaking, the best Swiss craftsmanship, and Montblanc’s own tradition, reflected in refined, elegantly pure cases and innovative mechanisms.
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ABOVE: Watchmakers at work in Le Locle BELOW: The Manufacture employs state-of-the-art machinery
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AlarmAutomatic Movement
ChronographRattrapante Chronograph
Dual TimeEquation of Time
Flyback ChronographGMT
Annual CalendarPerpetual Calendar
Simple CalendarMinute RepeaterGrande Sonnerie
Unidirectional BezelTourbillon
Moon PhasePower Reserve
Grand ComplicationJumping Hour
World TimeEscapement
Balance WheelGear TrainTachymeterTelemeter
PulsometerBig Date
Retrograde DisplayRotor
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Unidirectional Bezel[\ˌyü-ni-dˌ-ˌrek-shnˌl, -dī-, -shˌ-nˌl\ \ˌbē-zˌl\]
An essential function for a mechanical diving watch, a unidirectional bezel can only be rotated counter-clockwise, providing extra safety for the diver. For timing an underwater dive, the diver aligns the pointer on the bezel with the minute of his start time in order to track the elapsed time of his dive. Because the bezel can only move in a counter-clockwise direction, it ensures that the diver will not over-estimate his dive time, thus adding an extra level of safety. In the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape, water-resistant to 300 meters, the contrasting dial and luminescent gold hour-markers ensure optimal readability. blancpain.com (212) 396-1735
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THE LIST Top Watch Retailers Across the Country
ARIZONA
E.D. Marshall Jewelers
10261 N. Scottsdale Rd.
Scottsdale, AZ 85253
(480) 922-1968
Brands: Blancpain, Bremont,
Franck Muller, Louis Moinet,
Maurice Lacroix, Piaget
Tourneau
7014 E. Camelback Rd.
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
(480) 429-2304
Brands: Bell & Ross,
Bremont, Tudor
CALIFORNIA
Ben Bridge
7007 Friars Rd.
San Diego, CA 92108
(619) 291-7572
Brands at both stores: Baume
& Mercier, Bell & Ross,
Breguet, Cartier, Panerai,
Patek Philippe
Bryant & Sons
812 State St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
(805) 966-9187
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Breitling, Cartier, Patek
Philippe
C.J. Charles
1135 Prospect St.
La Jolla, CA 92037
(858) 454-5390
Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,
Breguet, Cartier, IWC,
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Chatel & Co Jewelers
Lincoln Street between
Ocean & 7th Avenues
Carmel, CA 93921
(888) 524-2835
Brands: Bell & Ross, Hermès,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Richard Mille, Zenith
David Orgell
262 N. Rodeo Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
(310) 273-6660
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Girard-Perregaux,
JeanRichard, Maurice
Lacroix, Perrelet,
Ulysse Nardin
Feldmar Watch Co.
9000 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 274-8016
Brands: Blancpain, Breguet,
Bremont, Carl F. Bucherer,
Hermès, Omega
Geary's
360 N. Rodeo Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
(310) 887-4250
Brands: Patek Philippe, Rolex
Milano Bijou
928 S. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
(213) 382-1700
Brands: Vacheron
Constantin, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Franck
Muller, IWC
Polacheck’s Jewelers
4719 Commons Way
Calabasas, CA 91302
(818) 225-0600
Brands: Cartier, Chanel,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Patek Philippe, Tudor
Shreve & Co.
Stanford Shopping Center
Palo Alto, CA 94304
(650) 327-2211
Brands: Corum, IWC, Omega,
Panerai, Patek Philippe, Rolex
Topper Fine Jewelers
1315 Burlingame Ave.
Burlingame, CA 94010
(650) 347-2221
Brands: Ball, Ernst Benz,
Glashütte Original, Longines,
Omega, Zenith
Tourbillon Boutique
South Coast Plaza
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 800-1925
Brands at both stores:
Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
231 Post St.
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 362-1525
Tourneau
3333 S. Bristol St.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 966-1204
Brands include: Baume &
Mercier, Devon, Frédérique
Constant, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Patek Philippe, Tudor
7007 Friars Rd.
San Diego, CA 92108
(619) 296-8463
845 Market St.
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 974-1846
Traditional Jewelers
817 Newport Center Dr.
Newport Beach, CA 92660
(949) 721-9010
Brands at both stores:
Audemars Piguet, Baume
& Mercier, Cartier, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Patek
Philippe, Rolex
200 Post St.
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 421-2600
Westime
216 North Rodeo Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
(310) 888-8880
Brands at all stores:
Audemars Piguet, Zenith,
Franck Muller, Omega,
Richard Mille, Ulysse Nardin
8569 Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood,
CA 90069
(310) 289-0808
1227 Prospect St.
La Jolla, CA 92037
(858) 459-2222
3832 Cross Creek Rd.
Malibu, CA 90265
(310) 456-2555
COLORADO
Hyde Park Jewelers
Cherry Creek Shopping
Center
Denver, CO 80206
(303) 333-4446
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier,
IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre
Oster Jewelers
251 Steele St.
Denver, CO 80206
(303) 572-1111
Brands: Audemars Piguet,
Bell & Ross, Bremont, Carl F.
Bucherer, Dior, Ulysse Nardin
Betteridge Jewelers
141 E. Meadow Dr.
Vail, CO 81657
(970) 790-6560
Brands: Bell & Ross, IWC,
Panerai, Patek Philippe,
Rolex, Tudor
CONNECTICUT
Betteridge Jewelers
117 Greenwich Ave.
Greenwich, CT 06830
(203) 869-0124
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Panerai, Patek Philippe,
Ralph Lauren
Lux Bond & Green
140 Glastonbury Blvd.
Glastonbury, CT 06033
(860) 659-8510
Brands at all stores: Breitling,
Cellini, Montblanc, Rolex,
TAG Heuer
1 Mohegan Sun Blvd.
Uncasville, CT 06382
(860) 862-9900
46 La Salle Rd.
West Hartford, CT 06880
(860) 521-3015
136 Main St.
Westport, CT 06107
(203) 227-1300
169 Greenwich Ave.
Greenwich, CT 06830
(203) 629-0900
Manfredi Jewels
121 Greenwich Ave.
Greenwich, CT 06830
(203) 622-1414
Brands: Audemars Piguet,
Breguet, F.P.Journe, Franck
Muller, Richard Mille,
Vacheron Constantin
Shreve, Crump & Low
125 Greenwich Ave.
Greenwich, CT 06830
(800) 225-7088
Brands: Breitling, Bremont,
Piaget, Roger Dubuis,
TAG Heuer
FLORIDA
Altier Jewelers
701 S. Federal Hwy.
Boca Raton, FL 33432
(561) 395-3462
Brands: Cartier, Linde
Werdelin, Patek Philippe,
Ralph Lauren
King Jewelers
18265 Biscayne Blvd.
Aventura, FL 33160
(305) 935-4900
Brands: Bell & Ross, Breguet,
Carl F. Bucherer, Devon,
Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Roger Dubuis
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Hamilton Jewelers
215 Worth Ave.
Palm Beach, FL 33480
(561) 659-6788
Brands at both stores:
Breguet, Bulgari, Patek
Philippe, Ralph Lauren
The Gardens Mall
Palm Beach Gardens,
FL 33410
(561) 775-3600
Les Bijoux
306 Plaza Real
Boca Raton, FL 33432
(561) 361-2311
Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Roger Dubuis, Vacheron
Constantin, Van Cleef &
Arpels
Levinson Jewelers
888 E. Las Olas Blvd.
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301
(954) 462-8880
Brands: Bulgari, Franck
Muller, Hermès, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Panerai, Roger
Dubuis
Mayors Jewelers
Town Center at Boca Raton
Boca Raton, FL 33431
(561) 368-602
Brands at all stores: Cartier,
Bulgari, Breitling, Patek
Philippe
342 San Lorenzo Ave.
Coral Gables, FL 33146
(305) 446-1233
7457 N. Kendall Dr.
Miami, FL 33156
(305) 667-7517
4200 Conroy Rd.
Orlando, FL 33431
(407) 363-5740
8001 S. Orange Blossom Trl.
Orlando, FL 32809
(407) 859-3116
140 University
Town Center Dr.
Sarasota, FL 34243
(941) 893-1124
2223 N. Westshore Blvd.
Tampa, FL 33607
(813) 354-8080
Tourbillon Boutique
Miami Design District
140 N.E. 39th St.
Miami, FL 33137
(305) 576-4571
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
Tourneau
5494 Tamiami Trl. N.
Naples, FL 34108
(239) 591-1342
Brands include: Baume
& Mercier, Frédérique
Constant, Longines, Rolex,
TAG Heuer, Tourneau
320 San Lorenzo Ave.
Coral Gables, FL 33146
(305) 448-6878
Aventura Mall
Aventura, FL 33180
(305) 932-2280
Bal Harbour Shops
Bal Harbour, FL 33154
(305) 866-4312
175 Worth Ave.
Palm Beach, FL 33480
(561) 832-8812
The Gardens Mall
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
33410
(561) 694-6028
Weston Jewelers
1728 Main St.
Weston, FL 33326
(954) 389-7990
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Cartier, Chopard, Dior,
Hublot, Montblanc
Yamron
5555 Tamiami Trl. N.
Naples, FL 34108
(239) 592-7707
Brands: Breitling, Bulgari,
Harry Winston, IWC, Patek
Philippe, Ulysse Nardin
GEORGIA
Tourneau
3393 Peachtree Rd. N.E.
Atlanta, GA 30326
(404) 760-1883
Brands: Bell & Ross,
Blancpain, IWC, Panerai,
Vacheron Constantin
HAWAII
Ben Bridge Jeweler
1450 Ala Moana Blvd.
Honolulu, HI 96814
(808) 955-0177
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier,
Panerai, Patek Philippe
Tourneau
2301 Kalakaua Ave.
Honolulu, HI 96815
(808) 922-4111
Brands: Blancpain, Devon,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Vacheron Constantin
ILLINOIS
C. D. Peacock
Northbrook Court
Northbrook, IL 60062
(847) 564-8030
Brands at all stores: Cartier,
IWC, Panerai, Patek Philippe,
Rolex, TAG Heuer
Oakbrook Center
Oak Brook, IL 60523
(630) 571-5355
Woodfield Mall
Schaumburg, IL 60173
(847) 619-6560
Old Orchard Center
Skokie, IL 60077
(847) 679-1837
Tourbillon Boutique
545 N. Michigan Ave.
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 836-3800
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
Tourneau
835 N. Michigan Ave.
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 266-7600
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Panerai, Patek Philippe, TAG
Heuer
Trabert & Hoeffer
111 E. Oak St.
Chicago, IL 60611
(312) 787-1654
Brands: Breguet, Cartier,
Franck Muller, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Piaget, Vacheron
Constantin
KANSAS
Tivol
4721 W. 119th St.
Overland Park, KS 66209
(913) 345-0200
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Cartier, David Yurman,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Rolex
MARYLAND
Liljenquist & Beckstead
7101 Democracy Blvd.
Bethesda, MD 20817
(800) 719-1190
Brands: Breguet, Cartier,
IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Omega, Patek Philippe
Radcliffe Jewelers
1848 Reisterstown Rd.
Pikesville, MD 21208
(410) 484-2900
Brands at both stores:
Cartier, Chanel, IWC,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Vacheron Constantin
825 Dulaney Valley Rd.
Baltimore, MD 21204
(410) 321-6590
MASSACHUSETTS
Lux Bond & Green
416 Boylston St.
Boston, MA 02116
(617) 266-4747
Brands at both stores:
Cellini, Patek Philippe, Rolex,
Shinola, TAG Heuer, Tudor
60 Central St.
Wellesley, MA 02482
(781) 235-9119
Royal Jewelers
58 Main St.
Andover, MA 01810
(978) 475-3330
Brands: Breguet, Cartier,
David Yurman, Panerai,
Piaget, TAG Heuer
Shreve, Crump & Low
39 Newbury St.
Boston, MA 02116
(617) 267-9100
Brands at both stores: A.
Lange & Söhne, Audemars
Piguet, Blancpain, IWC,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron
Constantin
232 Boylston St.
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467
(800) 225-7088
Tourneau
Copley Place
Boston, MA 02116
(617) 267-8463
Brands include: Breguet,
Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Panerai, TAG Heuer, Tudor
Burlington Mall
Burlington, MA 01803
(781) 272-8463
MICHIGAN
Darakjian Jewelers
101 Willits St.
Birmingham, MI 48009
(888) 843-6659
Brands: Audemars Piguet,
Carl F. Bucherer, Devon,
Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc,
Ulysse Nardin
Tapper's
27716 Novi Rd.
Novi, MI 48377
(248) 465-1800
Brands at all stores: Cartier,
David Yurman, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Panerai, Raymond
Weil, Tag Heuer, Tudor
6337 Orchard Lake Rd.
West Bloomfield, MI 48322
(248) 932-7700
2800 W. Big Beaver Rd.
Troy, MI 48084
(248) 649-2000
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MINNESOTA
Ben Bridge
Mall of America
Bloomington, MN 55425
(952) 814-9356
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier,
Panerai, Patek Philippe
Wixon Jewelers
9955 Lyndale Ave. S.
Bloomington, MN 55420
(952) 881-8862
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Patek Philippe, Rolex, Tudor
MISSOURI
Clarkson Jewelers
Clarkson/Clayton Shopping
Center
Ellisville, MO 63011
(636) 227-2006
Brands: Carl F. Bucherer,
Frédérique Constant, Patek
Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer,
Tudor
Tivol
220 Nicols Rd.
Kansas City, MO 64112
(816) 531-5800
Brands: Cartier, David
Yurman, Panerai, Patek
Philippe, TAG Heuer, Tudor
NEVADA
Bellusso at The Palazzo
3325 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 650-2988
Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,
Blancpain, Breguet, Cartier,
IWC, Vacheron Constantin
Ben Bridge
1300 W. Sunset Rd.
Henderson, NV 89014
(702) 456-8807
Brands at both stores: Baume
& Mercier, Bell & Ross,
Breguet, Cartier, Panerai,
Patek Philippe
3200 S. Las Vegas Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 733-0003
Horologio Fine Watches
3377 S. Las Vegas Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 733-0016
Brands: Bell & Ross,
Blancpain, Breitling, Franck
Muller, Omega, Ulysse
Nardin
Roman Times Jewelers
3500 Las Vegas Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 733-8687
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Franck Muller, IWC, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis,
Ulysse Nardin
Tourbillon Boutique
The Shops at Crystals
Las Vegas, NV 89158
(702) 597-0284
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
Tourneau Time Dome
The Forum Shops at Caesars
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 732-8463
Brands: Bremont, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Rolex, TAG
Heuer, Tudor, Vacheron
Constantin
Wynn Las Vegas
Wynn Esplanade and
Encore Esplanade
(702) 770-3520
Brands: Breguet, IWC,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Patek Philippe, Piaget
NEW JERSEY
Hamilton Jewelers
92 Nassau St.
Princeton, NJ 08542
(609) 683-4200
Brands: Cartier, Chanel,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai,
Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer
The Timepiece Collection
58 E. Palisade Ave.
Englewood, NJ 07631
(201) 894-1825
Brands: Audemars Piguet,
Girard-Perregaux, Harry
Winston, Hermès, Omega,
TAG Heuer
Tourbillon Boutique
The Mall at Short Hills
Short Hills, NJ 07078
(973) 564-5864
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
NEW YORK
Cellini
509 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10022
(212) 888-0505
Brands at both stores: A.
Lange & Söhne, Audemars
Piguet, Bell & Ross, Franck
Muller, Girard-Perregaux,
Greubel Forsey, IWC,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget,
Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron
Constantin
Waldorf Astoria
301 Park Ave.
New York, NY 10022
(212) 751-9824
London Jewelers
2 Main St.
East Hampton, NY 11937
(631) 329-3939
Brands at all stores: Franck
Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Panerai, Patek Philippe,
Tudor
47 Main St.
Southampton, NY 11968
(631) 287-4499
28 School St.
Glen Cove, NY 11542
(516) 671-3154
180 Wheatley Plaza
Greenvale, NY 11548
(516) 621-8844
2046 Northern Blvd.
Manhasset, NY 10030
(516) 627-7475
Tourneau TimeMachine
12 E. 57th St.
New York, NY 10022
(212) 758-7300
Brands: Ball, Baume &
Mercier, Bell & Ross,
Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling,
Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Patek Philippe, Piaget, Tudor,
Vacheron Constantin
510 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10022
(212) 758-5830
3 Bryant Park
New York, NY 10036
(212) 278-8041
630 Old Country Rd.
Garden City, NY 11530
(516) 873-0209
125 Westchester Ave.
White Plains, NY 10601
(914) 397-2301
160 Walt Whitman Rd.
Huntington Station, NY
11746
(631) 427-2649
Wempe
700 Fifth Ave.
New York, NY 10019
(212) 397-9000
Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,
Audemars Piguet, Baume &
Mercier, Breguet, Breitling,
Cartier, Chopard, Glashütte
Original, IWC, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Longines,
Montblanc, Panerai, Patek
Philippe, Roger Dubuis,
Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron
Constantin
NORTH CAROLINA
Windsor Jewelers
6809-D Phillips Pl. Ct.
Charlotte, NC 28210
(704) 556-7747
Brands at both stores: Bell &
Ross, Panerai, Patek Philippe,
Rolex, TAG Heuer, Tudor,
Ulysse Nardin
526 S. Stratford Rd.
Winston-Salem, NC 27103
(336) 721-1768
OHIO
Mann Jewelers
26300 Cedar Rd.
Beachwood, OH 44122
(216) 831-1119
Brands: Patek Philippe,
Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Panerai
OREGON
Ben Bridge
9508 S.W. Washington
Square Rd.
Portland, OR 97223
(503) 603-1285
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
Bell & Ross, Breguet, Cartier,
Panerai, Patek Philippe
Shreve & Co.
640 Southwest Broadway
Portland, OR 97205
(971) 295-5555
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Longines, Panerai, Patek
Philippe
PENNSYLVANIA
Govberg Jewelers
65 St. James Pl.
Ardmore, PA 19003
(610) 664-1715
Brands at both stores:
Audemars Piguet, Baume
& Mercier, Dior, Panerai,
Parmigiani, Patek Philippe,
Rolex, TAG Heuer, Vacheron
Constantin
1521 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19102
(215) 546-6505
Tourneau
160 N. Gulph Rd.
King of Prussia, PA 19406
(610) 491-8801
Brands: Ball, Baume &
Mercier, Blancpain, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Panerai, Tudor
TENNESSEE
King Jewelers
4121 Hillsboro Pike
Nashville, TN 37215
(615) 724-5464
Brands: Cartier, Chanel,
IWC, Jaquet Droz, Rolex,
TAG Heuer
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TEXAS
Bachendorf's
8400 Preston Rd.
Dallas, TX 75225
(214) 692-8400
Brands: Chanel, Chopard,
IWC, Montblanc, Omega,
TAG Heuer
Tourbillon Boutique
8687 N. Central Expy.
Dallas, TX 75225
(214) 346-3431
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
Ben Bridge
Barton Creek Square Mall
Austin, TX 78746
(512) 329-9066
Brands at all stores: Baume &
Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breguet,
Cartier, Panerai, Patek
Philippe
The Domain, 3401
Esperanza Crossing
Austin, TX 78758
(512) 491-8014
8687 N. Central Express
Dallas, TX 75225
(214) 369-2277
7040 N. Mesa St.
El Paso, TX 79912
(915) 584-4700
303 Memorial City Mall
Houston, TX 77024
(713) 935-9499
1096 Willowbrook Mall
Houston, TX 77070
(281) 894-5799
5135 W. Alabama St.
Houston, TX 77056
(713) 960-1998
Eiseman Jewelers
8687 N. Central Express
Dallas, TX 75225
(214) 369-6100
Brands: Audemars Piguet,
Baume & Mercier, Cartier,
Hermès, Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Vacheron Constantin
Tourbillon Boutique
The Galleria
5085 Westheimer Rd.
Houston, TX 77056
(713) 850-1056
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
Tourneau
13350 N. Dallas Pkwy.
Dallas, TX 75240
(972) 661-1503
Brands include: Ball, Baume
& Mercier, Bell & Ross,
Bremont, Devon, Frédérique
Constant, Hamilton
5015 Westheimer Rd.
(713) 871-8282
Houston, TX 77056
15900 La Cantera Pkwy.
San Antonio, TX 78256
(210) 694-5654
Zadok Jewelers
1749 Post Oak Blvd.
Houston, TX 77056
(713) 960-8950
Brands: Breguet, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget,
TAG Heuer, Vacheron
Constantin
VIRGINIA
Liljenquist & Beckstead
Jewelers
Tysons Galleria
McLean, VA 22102
(703) 448-6731
Brands: A. Lange & Söhne,
Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Panerai, Patek
Philippe
Tourneau
Fashion Centre at
Pentagon City
Arlington, VA 22202
(703) 414-8463
Brands: Baume & Mercier,
TAG Heuer, Cartier, IWC,
Rolex
WASHINGTON
Ben Bridge
143 Bellevue Sq.
Bellevue, WA 98004
(425) 454-9927
Brands at both stores: Baume
& Mercier, Bell & Ross,
Breguet, Cartier, Panerai,
Patek Philippe
1432 4th Ave.
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 628-6800
Tourbillon Boutique
Fairmont Olympic Hotel
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 442-9300
Brands: Breguet, Blancpain,
Glashütte Original, Jaquet
Droz, Omega, Swatch
141
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BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPHE TOURBILLONThe BR-X1 CHRONOGRAPH TOURBILLON is an ultra-sophisticated watch which combines the great mechanical complexity of an exceptional calibre with the extreme design of a professional instrument. This haute horlogerie mechanism combines a number of complications: a tourbillon, a column wheel skeleton chronograph with mono-pusher, a 30-minute counter with jumping hand and a 4-day power reserve.Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 | www.bellross.com
