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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVECHAIRMAN William S. Morris IIIPRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV
BENVENUTI IN ITALIA WELCOME TO ITALY Siamo qui da secoli. Vi aspettiamo.
Messaggio dal Paese più bello del mondo.
Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti
della recente pandemia. I lockdown, le chiusure
dei confini, il crollo del reddito disponibile, nel
momento in cui scrivo potrebbero ispirare solo
depressione. Ma stiamo invece parlando dell’Italia.
La meta preferita per secoli dai viaggiatori. Infinite volte sfidata da
guerre, carestie, epidemie e infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più
desiderato al mondo.
Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono
essere già colti anche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra
l’Italia come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni
online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori
naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti
UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il
museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la
cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata
al mondo.
Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici
contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla
gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni
e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture
che andarono a creare l’Italia.
E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia,
accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni
di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il
Rinascimento.
Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori
alla scoperta dell’Italia, anche nel nuovo Rinascimento.
A presto!
L'Editore
We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you.
A message from the most beautiful country in the world.
The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the
global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing
of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this
editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about
Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout
history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics,
and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the
most desirable tourist destination in the world.
Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you
will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets
shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions
of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is
unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World
Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum
in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the
world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it
would be the best equipped in the world.
Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are
only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is
made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was
a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth,
settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in
the creation of Italy.
So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge
of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our
Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique
experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember
the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance!
Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage
to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance.
We look forward to seeing you soon!
The Publisher
Andrea Jarach
Publisher
Where®
>> Per verificare i giorni e le modalità di apertura di musei, ristoranti, negozi e outlet: www.wheremilan.com
>> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Venice
Turin
Florence
Rome
www.wheretraveler.com 32 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR
What can you do when at home for the Coronavirus lockdown? Why not visit a museum in a new way, with a virtual tour, for example. We've rounded up a selection of the Milanese and Italian museums virtually opening their doors to the public thanks to their websites and official social media accounts. BY GIULIA MINERO
Virtual Tours of Italian Museums
Even during these days at home facing the COVID-19 emergency, the culture never stops. Institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are all united to provide their visitors with the
chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions – which are all closed to the public – and even enjoy site-specific events and special activities. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Enjoy your visit!
Pinacoteca di BreraMILANThose who are at home for the safety measures to prevent the spread of COVID-19 or people who just would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum.>> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org
Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”MILANThe Museum is still working to share its most precious treasures with its visitors. #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations of the collections and archives, science news, educational lab activities... with videos, pictures and unpublished documents. Most of the contents are published in Italian in order to reach more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating visual material provided in the program. Here is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behind-the-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops and informal education. Wednesday: Science and technology news. Thursday: Tales from the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual
Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci.Other online activities are held on the official Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts.
>> Check the online activities at www.museoscienza.org
Fondazione PradaMILANDuring the lockdown connected to the COVID-19 issue, Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. According to this new concept of multimedia experience, the foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. Thanks to the “Glossary” section, for instance, the various projects connected to art, cinema, dance, music, architecture and philosophy
Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan
Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan
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Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world.
>> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it
Musei Vaticani - The Vatican Museums ROMEThe various halls of the Vatican Museums in Rome – which include 26 sections and museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello’s Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. The tours are available online on the official website and also enable visitors to enjoy a close-up view of the thousands of works of art part of the Popes’ collection gathered through the centuries. Videos and other multimedia contents can be discovered on the official YouTube channel.
>> Check the online activities at www.museivaticani.va
Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICEThe Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share
anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC>> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it
Museo e Real Bosco di CapodimonteNAPLESThanks to the collaboration between MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco.>> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it
launched from 1993 up to our days become the protagonists of an ideal dialogue of art thanks to images, videos, texts and extracts from catalogues. Conversely, the Inner Views initiative has been created to substitute a real visit to the spaces of the Fondazione and to enable visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – thanks to an online learning method based on interviews, images, videos and focus on the featured masterpieces. A more complete vision of art is provided by the Outer Views section, focusing on the contribution of works of art from the Fondazione Prada on loan to other important Italian and foreign institutions.>> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org
Triennale MilanoMILANThough Milan’s most known design museum is closed, its Triennale Decameron program
WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR
PERSONAL STORIES. Drawing inspiration from Giovanni Boccaccio's “The Decameron”, about a group of young people who stayed outside Florence for ten days to escape the Black Plague in 1348 and took turns in telling stories to kill the time, Triennale Milano has invited artists, designers, architects, intellectuals, musicians, singers, writers, directors and journalists to "inhabit" Triennale Milano’s empty spaces in order to develop a personal story.
Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence
is still active. Daily at 5pm artists, designers and architects can be seen and heard live on the official Instagram account (@triennalemilano). Moreover, the official website enables visitors to enjoy interviews, podcasts and highlights on the world of art and culture, as well as videos and images from the historical archives of the Triennale. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook and YouTube accounts.
>> Check the online activities at www.triennale.org
Museo Egizio TURINThe second largest Egyptian Museum in the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to special guided tours. Led by the museum’s director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available for free on the official Youtube account, the 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful highlights on the featured findings. Other multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account (@museoegizio).
>> Check the online activities at museoegizio.it
Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCEThe MuseoCity association, together with Google Arts&Culture has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo,
Live streamingsVirtually strolling through gardens,
discovering historical dwellings
and their precious objects is now
possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo
Ambiente Italiano. The Italian
National Trust has indeed powered
its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online
project enabling visitors to enjoy
some of its most widely-appreciated
properties thanks to live streamings
on the official FAI account on
Facebook, Instagram and on the
official YouTube channel.
>> Read more at
https://www.wheremilan.com/news/
italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/
Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice Museo Egizio, Turin
The Vatican Museums, Rome
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DUOMO AND CUPOLACompleted in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1
BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2
CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the
square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4
GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5
PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire
Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6
CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7
Top in Florence
PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8
PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9
SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10
MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11
SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13
SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14
SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15
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and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4
CENACOLO VINCIANO 4
One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4
PALAZZO REALE 5
Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently
one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5
PIAZZA SCALA 6
The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4
MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7
Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4
BRERA DISTRICT 8
This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3
AMBROSIANA 9
The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5
NAVIGLI 10
The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years
ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. Map E6
SAN SIRO STADIUM 11
With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map
SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5
PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13
A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola
Top in Milan
districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.the new BAM-Biblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2
TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3
CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. Map E1
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DUOMO 1
Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2
Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4
CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3
The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums
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BASILICA DI SAN MARCOThis is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1
PALAZZO DUCALEA masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2
CANAL GRANDEAlthough it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3
PONTE DEI SOSPIRIA Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4
TEATRO LA FENICETwice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5
PONTE DI RIALTOThis is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIAThey host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7
Top in Venice
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLOA rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8
CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDEDI SAN ROCCOA Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9
SAN GIORGIO MAGGIOREThis small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10
LIDO DI VENEZIAThe narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11
THE GHETTOThe Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12
THE ISLANDSAlthough the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13
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MOLE ANTONELLIANAA landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1
MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000
artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2
MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3
PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the
headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4
PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5
VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when
King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6
TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7
VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8
PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9
LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT
factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10
MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11
ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12
BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13
REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14
PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15
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COLOSSEUM 1The Colosseum is the indestructible symbol of the Eternal City and the largest amphitheatre ever built. It was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, wild animal hunts, executions, and reenactments of famous battles. Map F4
ROMAN FORUM 2The heart of Ancient Rome. See the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, the House of the Vestal Virgins, and more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Map E/F4/5
PIAZZA NAVONA 3One of the most beautiful squares in Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of
the Four Rivers, which encompasses an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of four river gods. Other two magnificent fountains decorate the piazza: the fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain of the Neptune. Map D3
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4The most famous staircase in the world, with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei Monti church at the very top. At its feet is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia by Bernini from which begins Via Condotti, the most exclusive shopping street in Rome. Map E2
TREVI FOUNTAIN 5Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, celebrating the triumph of waters
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with the imperious statue of Oceano dominating the scene. Make sure to toss a coin or two into its famous waters to assure your return to Rome. Map E3
SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6The greatest church in the world with art masterpieces including Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino.
Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue dome dominates the grandiose scene, while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the solemn entrance to the Vatican and the Christendom. Map B3
VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7The most important museum of Rome with an incomparable collection of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance, and baroque art; works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and
many more. The Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo is regarded as one of the major artistic accomplishments of human civilization. Map B2
PANTHEON 8 The city only architecturally intact monument from classical times, constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior measures 43.4 m in width and height. Light and air (and even rain) enter through the opening at the top through which the sky pervade the temple. Map D3
CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, transformed into a majestic fortress centuries later, now a museum. It is joined to the Vatican by the famous
Passetto, a passageway used to be a secret escape for the popes. Map C2/3
MOUTH OF TRUTH 0It is a marble mask which stands against the left wall of Santa Maria in Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector from another time, it attracts thousands of visitors who audaciously stick their hand in the mouth. According to legend, a liar who puts his hand in the mouth will have it bitten off. Map D5
CAPITOLINE HILL !One of the seven hills of Rome, boasting a piazza, designed by Michelangelo with a bronze copy of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius in the middle. On the highest
summit of the Campidoglio is located the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, reachable by a steep staircase counting 124 steps. Map D4
PIAZZA DEL POPOLO It is an enormous square architecturally superb and perfectly symmetrical, dominated by an Egyptian obelisk and enriched by important churches such as the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by Caravaggio and Pinturicchio. Map D1
VILLA BORGHESE The most celebrated and easily accessible villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill. Take a walk through its intricate gardens or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del Lago. Map D1
[ I T A L I A N G R A N D T O U R ]
Top in Rome
16 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
◄ TIFFANY & CO. From the combination of stylised angles and sleek lines comes the marvellous purity of the “Tiffany T” collection. This splendid yellow gold and corniola pendant framed by sparkling diamonds, with an intense brightness and an extraordinary lustre, is very modern. www.tiffany.it
TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE6 JANUARY CAVALCATA DEI MAGI A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany when Three Wise Men brought gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes.
18 FEBRUARY ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Celebration of the last heir of the Medici dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy is all due to her. To mark the occasion, some municipal museums allow access free of charge.
25 MARCH CAPODANNO FIORENTINO The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated since before the advent of the Gregorian Calendar (1582), with a parade through the central streets of the city in historical costumes.
EASTER SCOPPIO DEL CARRO A popular secular and religious tradition that dates back to the time of the Crusades. A procession with percussionists and flag-wavers in historical costumes, city officials and representatives of the clergy, accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic tower from the church of SS. Apostoli to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is set alight.
1 MAY
TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI A contest between historical groups of flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place in Piazza della Signoria.
THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY PALIO DEL BALUARDO A crossbow shooting competition to commemorate the birth of the Florentine Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when the Medici were expelled from Florence. The competition is held at the Bastione known as the Fonte della Ginevra.
23 MAY
LA FIORITA A Florentine tradition celebrating the burning at the stake of Dominican preacher Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial figure in the city’s history. A wreath of flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to him in Piazza della Signoria, after which rose petals are thrown into the Arno from Ponte Vecchio.
24 JUNE FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL CALCIO STORICO
A contest that has taken place in Piazza Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of the city. Highly competitive, it combines football, rugby and wrestling and is held as the culmination of a tournament between teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni and Blue from Santa Croce.
26 JULY FESTA DI SANT’ANNA A secular and religious festival held near the church of Orsanmichele, in which the figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the city, is venerated.
10 AUGUST FESTA DI SAN LORENZO It takes place in the morning with a “Historical Procession of the Florentine Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa through the streets of the historic centre to the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, in Piazza San Lorenzo.
END OF SEPTEMBER BACCO ARTIGIANO A traditional Festival of Wine and the outstanding products of the territory. Concomitant entertainment events are also held to mark the occasion.
8 OCTOBER FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it was thanks to the miraculous intercession of Saint Reparata that the Florentines succeeded in repelling the siege of the Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked the triumph of Christianity in Florence.
END OF DECEMBER
FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI An ancient folkloristic event in which the “Procession of the Florentine Republic” addresses the civil and religious authorities to wish them good luck during the festivities.
ANNA MARIA LUISA DE’ MEDICI
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▲ SAVINI TARTUFI “Il Tartufato” is part of a line of packs designed to give (and give yourself ) inviting truffle products as gifts. Included in this composition are Peschiole with summer truffle, Tagliolini with truffle, Cream with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and truffle, Butter with summer truffle and Cream of fig, honey and truffle. www.savinitartufi.it
► GREVI A 1920s shape with raised brim and hand-made grosgrain flower trim: this is just one of the models by the historic company that has been working since 1875 to create women’s, men’s and children’s collections using age-old workmanship techniques implemented by highly specialist personnel. www.grevi.it
We’ve compiled a short guideoffering ideas for this season.A great opportunity to spendsome pleasant momentsbrowsing the essentialdestinations for luxury shoppingin the centre of Florence, whileenjoying its beauties.Where® guarantees that youwon’t leave empty-handed!
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▼ BRANDIMARTEFrom the silver jewellery collection, these silvered, gilded and pink “spring bracelets” are the result of artisan workmanship Made in Tuscany. Like silverware for the table, jewellery too has the aim of enabling the noble metal to be used in daily life so that its beauty and special characteristics can be appreciated. www.brandimarte.com
▼ L’IPPOGRIFO The charm and tradition of a unique art that can only be found in the shops and laboratories of the Oltrarno: “Ponte Vecchio seen from the rooftops” uses the etching technique, which enables original limited edition numbered graphic works to be created, from etching to printing. www.ippogrifostampedarte.com
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www.wheretraveler.com 1918 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so. Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. For more details ask your concierge. B Y C H I A R A Z A C C A R E L L I
If you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and
kilometres of coastline for bathers. CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany.About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient 16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca
the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres.The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world.With a brief trip by coach from Florence you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the
seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper.And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th/14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric.
NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches
Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day.
Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
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and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano.The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south-east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far
removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and culinary festivals.
TUSCANY BIKING Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.
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N ot far from the Fortezza da Basso
and the Museum of San Marco, yet
away from the crowds of tourists in
the historic centre, the Antica Occhialeria
retains its charm as an authentic location fully
intact. This historic shop, with its interiors in
which dark red tones predominate, in contrast
with the pale wood furniture and finishes,
with its vintage objects and bygone models
of glasses, so entering it is like taking a leap
back in time. It was 1956, in fact, when Lucio
Enrico Di Nardo, an expert collector and art
lover, began his activity as an optician. More
than 60 years later, the Antica Occhialeria is an
artisan concern that is favoured by numerous
connoisseurs and lovers of the genre, with
a production capable of combining
aesthetics and visual functionality. Each pair,
created using high-quality hand-finished
materials fully respecting the tradition of
products “Made in Italy”, is inspired by the
huge historical collection to which the
Di Nardo family and their collaborators are
lucky enough to have access. The models,
in fact, maintain a characteristic and
fascinating retro style, though also standing
out on account of the extreme particularity
of their design and the use of different,
even unusual materials, such as wood, horn,
hide, leather and 18kt gold. The Antica
Occhialeria also has a vast selection of
authentic vintage glasses and designs
and manufactures exclusive made-to-
measure models.
SHOPPINGThe GuidelinesMAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 42-43). SHOPPING This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 22. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
TAX-FREE SHOPPING By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
Shopping hours are generally from 10am to7pm; less centrally located shops still take thetraditional lunch break. Most shops are closed onSundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.
DINING Reservations for most restaurants are stronglyadvised. In Italy, service is included in theprice meaning that although tipping is notcompulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a separate category. The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge
ENTERTAINMENT Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.
All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.
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CLOTHING &ACCESSORIESAngela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4
Anichini CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children
where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www.anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
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Glasses with retro charmA little gem for vintage glasses enthusiasts, but also for lovers of models with contemporary designs created using quality materials such as leather, precious metals, gemstones, horn and wood. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4
Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3
>> www.anticaocchialeria.com
Via San Gallo, 130/r-134/r
T: 055 473055. Off Map
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EIl Bisonte, timeless appeal Enter the Il Bisonte boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno to discover a world
dedicated to style and craftsmanship. Since 1970, the Florentine brand of leather goods
and accessories founded by Wanny Di Filippo has been distinguished by the originality of
its creations, handcrafted by skilled artisans using high-quality materials such as cowhide,
leather and all-natural vegetable-tanned leather. In addition to bearing the Made in Italy
merchandise mark, Il Bisonte’s bags, document holders, suitcases, travel accessories and
small leather goods share the same attention to detail, as regards both their design and
the various stages involved in the production process. From leather cutting to splitting and
hand-sewn details, each stage of the process is carried out following methods handed down
from generation to generation like a precious artwork to be safeguarded. The use of natural
materials guarantees the uniqueness of each product, a characteristic that has always been
dear to Il Bisonte. Using a traditional Tuscan process of vegetable tanning, an Il Bisonte bag
only improves with time, embracing the unique qualities impressed on it with each wear.
www.ilbisonte.com. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4
www.wheretraveler.com 2322 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
One of the delightful outfits for this season proposed by CHANEL: ecru tweed and multicolour dress on white silk georgette top, pale grey suede and black grosgrain shoes. To complete the look, a metal, strass, gold and crystal glass necklace.
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm.Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Map E3
MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Map F3
MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. T: 055 290284. Map F3
MISSONI—www.misson.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 2608931. Map F3
MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Map E3
MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Map E3
POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3
PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3
SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. T: 055 9040100. Map E3
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4
[ F A S H I O N D E S I G N E R S ]
Polished calfskin with rounded flap, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI interprets the backpack in a modern, sophisticated style.
Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details.
STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map F3
SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. Map F3
TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3
VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4
GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. Map E3
GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927010. Map F4
HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3
ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. T: 055 212995. Map E4
ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4
BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.
Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 9040090. Map E4
BOGGI MILANO— www.boggi.com.
Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. T: 055 219179. Map E3
BORSALINO— www.borsalino.com.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r.
T: 055 218275. Map F4
BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3
BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4
BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm.
Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Map E4
Top Brands
HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3
HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. T: 055 2398688. Map E4
CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4
CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3
CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 2670157. Map E4
DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3
DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2669101. Map E3
DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4
EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E4
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 264254. Map E3
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3
FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 212305 Map E3
FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4
Cat-eye sunglasses by MAX MARA with ultra-light acetate frame. A bold, feminine design, inspired by the Punk allure of the late ‘80s.
Practical and elegant, the FURLA timepiece from the “Giada” line has a 33mm round silvered metal case with smooth leather strap, available in the colours Sand, Violet, Onyx. The accessory is embellished with the Furla logo inside the dial.
www.wheretraveler.com 2524 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
SHOPPING
FINE ART Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www.anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3
Pitti Mosaici Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6
Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio.com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6
JEWELLERY & WATCHESAngela Caputi Giuggiù COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned
throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4
Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4
Aprosio Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2
Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio
that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5
Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4
Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www.dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4
Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3
Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of
the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4
Officine Panerai Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2
Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4
Vacheron Constantin Boutique In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of
the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5
LEATHERCuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map
Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3
Il Bisonte Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4
PASSION SHOPPINGAquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www.aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily
SHOPPING
ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century buildingknown as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from thePonte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heartof Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù.Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved byinternational customers, are genuinely unique pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections.
www.angelacaputi.com Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4
Société Anonyme An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3
Stefano Ricci Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, making production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3
DEPARTMENT STORESRinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items. For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3
Elena Mirò An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3
Giovanni Raspini In the beating heart of the fashion district, the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand-crafted white bronze creations, always having a style that is midway between minimalism and classicism as the common denominator. From the design to the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4
Luisaviaroma MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s
by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3
Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3
OFFICINA PROFUMO-FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
See page 26.
ANTICO SETIFICIO FIORENTINO See this page.
From IL BISONTE’s spring-summer 2020 collection, this woman’s crossbody bag “Salina” in cowhide leather (milk/mint colour) evokes a joyful lifestyle.
26 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
SHOPPING
10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5
Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3
Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe
(established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets
and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries-old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2
The Merchant of Venice NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast
range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3
Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3
SHOESAquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4
Salvatore Ferragamo Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4
UGG First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. A brightly lit space with colours and themes taking up the decorative elements of the UGG 2019 campaign, in the heart of historic piazza della Repubblica. Inside, the more traditional models stands alonside new footwear. www. ugg.com. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30am-7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3
1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.
2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.
3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.
4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).
5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued.
6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).
7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.
8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.
9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.
10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.
Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
Tax Free Refund Guide
SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME See page 24.
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www.wheretraveler.com 2928 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
VENTIMIGLIA
MAR LIGURE
MAR ADRIATICO
MAR TIRRENO
NAPOLI
LUGANOMENDRISIO
BERGAMO BRESCIA
TRIESTE
RIMINI
PERUGIA
LIVORNO
PISA
PIACENZA
NOVARA
TORINO
CORSICA
SARDEGNA
ROMA
PESCARA
FERRARA
MILANO
BOLOGNA
FIRENZE
LUCCA
FORTE DEI MARMI
SIENA
SAN GIMIGNANO
ANCONA
ALESSANDRIA
GENOVA
THE APPENNINIMOUNTAIN RIDGE
Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets
Barberino Designer Outlet
ValdichianaOutlet Village
Fidenza Village
[ D A I L Y T O U R S ]
Fashion outlets
• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of clothing and accessories for the whole family, sportswear, items for the home and beauty products, with discounts of up to 70% on the retail price. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also hosts art exhibitions, lots of events and initiatives designed to involve the whole family. www.thestyleoutlets.it
FIDENZA VILLAGE This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the shopping experience memorable. The Village is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with unique hospitality at the core of the services and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne Westwood and many more. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays homage to the region’s rich cultural and gastronomic heritage. After your day of shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge in delicious homemade pasta with fresh Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. www.fidenzavillage.com
BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side.• WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino
CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm. • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station.
THE MALL FIRENZE
The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers at truly advantageous prices, offering customers a unique shopping experience. It is set in the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes from Florence. Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, July, August 10am-8pm). • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door minivan service from centrally located hotels in Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance and footwear) featuring your favourite brands with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s shopping. www.themall.it
VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping experience characterised by quality and convenience. It has several facilities and services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, the library and several food courts where the
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The Mall Firenze?
Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby Emilia-Romagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.
best local food and wines are on offer. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle. • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour and many others. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it
Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village
Barberino Designer OutletCastel Guelfo The Style Outlets
The Mall Firenze
The Mall Sanremo?
www.wheretraveler.com 3130 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
Tuscan food
CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of baked dough while still hot. The dough is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Santo.
CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion.
LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and most commonly served in a panino soaked in the broth or topped with the local parsley-based green sauce.
PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper.
RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means boiled several times - derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before.
SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this simple focaccia baked in a wood oven and dressed with olive oil and salt at any baker’s, but of course everyone has their own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp and salty, or made with ancient grains.
(C.Z.)
Pappa col pomodoro
DININGTUSCAN CUISINEBenedicta EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which
the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map D2
Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5
Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5
Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo.com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3
Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map
IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4
La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design
store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1
Latini (Il) Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3
Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th-century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3
Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www.lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6
L’Ortone Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4
Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria-marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3
Opera Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
Traditional cuisine in a historic venuePast and present, culinary art and culture meet here. Within its 17th century walls you can taste the typical cuisine of the territory, accompanied by an interesting selection of wines. By Chiara Zaccarelli
In Florence it may often happen that you
find yourself dining “inside history”. This is
no less true in the case of the Buca Niccolini
restaurant: it came about as a typical Florentine
“buca”, that is a tavern located in a building’s
wine cellar. The building in question is none
other than the adjacent Teatro Niccolini, a space
of great historical and architectural interest, the
oldest in Florence and among the first “modern”
theatres in Europe, the origins of which date
back to 1650. After years of abandonment,
today the theatre has returned to full activity.
It is not uncommon, in fact, after a show, for
spectators and artists to stop to dine here.
In a central position, a few yards from the
Duomo, Buca Niccolini is a pleasant, family-
oriented venue, all organised around a
traditional, sincere and genuine cuisine. Here
you will find the great evergreen Tuscan classics,
such as “Pappa al Pomodoro”, “Ribollita” and
“Pici del Chianti al Cinghiale” (but the selection
of first courses is truly endless), then there is
“Trippa alla Fiorentina” and, obviously, “Bistecca
alla Fiorentina”. And for pizza lovers, there is
also a selection of pizzas, from the classics to
the most appetising variations, also meeting
the requirements of the gluten intolerant.
The venue, in fact, possesses a separate area
for the preparation of gluten-free pizza. The
wine cellar boasts around 80 Italian labels, with
particular attention devoted to Tuscan wines.
>> www.bucaniccolini.it
Via Ricasoli 5/7r. T: 055 292124. Map G2
www.wheretraveler.com 3332 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
DINING
Osteria Badalì Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6
Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3
Tuscani 3 (I) If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4
Zeb Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6
CANTINE Antica Mescita San Niccolò Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6
Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3
Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine
cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3
Buca Poldo A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo.com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Map F4
Buca San Giovanni Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F
Fiaschetteria Nuvoli Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616. Map F2
PIZZA Pizza Man Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten-free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4
Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3
Santarpia In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. T: 055245829. Map L3
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Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757enotecapinchiorri.itHow do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th-century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses.
Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661www.borgosanjacopo.comOverlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato-based one is unmissable) or à la carte.
La Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic
vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme.
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-botturaLocated inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays around the tones of green and pistachio and can welcome up t o 35 diners indoors.
La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta
Michelin-starred restaurants
In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together.
Bottega del Buon Caffè
Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains.
Ora d ’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169www.oradariaristorante.comAn hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.
Il Palagio Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450www.ilpalagioristorante.itInside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass.
Ora d’Aria
The “fiorentina”
Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the original and tell it apart from the hundreds of impostors, there are a few tips you need to know.
Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual with unwritten rules that the visitor needs to know to avoid falling foul of the restaurant owner, paying over the odds and to make sure they get the real thing.
WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare.
HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo.
WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti.
WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www.illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi.com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ristorante-perseus-firenze).
(C.Z.)
Buca Mario
Borgo San Jacopo Ribollita calssica..e croccante
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Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels.
Bristol Winter Garden c/o Helvetia & BristolVia dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com The restaurant is located inside the evocative Winter Garden, covered by the historic Liberty-style glass ceiling. A versatile ambience with classic motifs of 18th-century chinoiserie. Among the proposals of Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio the inimitable roasted rock octopus and the most traditional Chianina tenderloin, a true tribute to the Tuscan land. The Winter Garden opens into the Tinello, the beating heart of the hotel, designed by Riccardo Barthel, that hosts a variety of gastronomic appointments in different moments of the day.
Capriccio Restaurant c/o Hotel Montebello SplendidVia G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471www.montebellosplendid.com The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight dinner or a special event.
Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’ArnoLungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition.
Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings.
Il Giardino Restaurantc/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891www.sinahotels.comA temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter garden which can be opened during the summer months, has been studied in every detail with an exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting creations of the best Italian and international tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar has 60 wine labels.
Top hotel restaurants
Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence.
Bristol Winter Garden
Il Conventino a Marignollec/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & ResortwVia di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425www.ilconventinoamarignolle.comA very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine.
Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel FirenzeBorgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450www.ilpalagioristorante.itA sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco.
Irenec/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891www.roccofortehotels.comInside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products.
J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Barc/o JK Place FirenzePiazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella.
La Cucina del Salviatinoc/o Il SalviatinoVia del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles.
Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden.
Relais Le Jardinc/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247www.regency-hotel.comLocated in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality.
Ristorante La Chiostrinac/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.comOne of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes.
Ristorante La Loggiac/o Belmond Villa San MicheleVia Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth thevisit even just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef Alessandro Cozzolino.
Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta RossaVia Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection
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of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes.
Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior FlorencePiazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city.
Villa La Vedettac/o Villa La VedettaViale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too.
Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis FlorencePiazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.
Il Palagio
La Loggia
Il Conventino a Marignolle
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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTSDuomo and Cupola Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2
Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3
Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4
Palazzo Vecchio Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.
www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Ponte Vecchio There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5
Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located on the left bank of the river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6
Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree-lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”. Map I7
San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map
Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
Florence at your feet Piazzale Michelangelo, an obligatory destination for tourists visiting the city, but also much loved by Florentines, is the most famous place to observe the city’s panorama. By Chiara Zaccarelli
Piazzale Michelangelo is one of the most
charming belvederes in Florence, an
unmissable terrace on the city; “a
not-to-be-missed” for visitors, but also very
popular among Florentines. From there your
gaze can take in Santa Croce, the Lungarnos,
Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo with its dome,
Giotto’s Bell Tower, Palazzo Vecchio and,
beyond, the hills surrounding Florence.
Standing out in the piazza, dedicated to
Michelangelo, are bronze reproductions
of his famous works: the David and the four
allegories from the Medici Chapels of San
Lorenzo, the originals of which are conserved
in the city.
The construction of the square dates back to
1869, as part of the urban planning renewal
on the occasion of the election of Florence
as the capital of Italy. In the design by
architect Giuseppe Poggi it was to become
a monument to Michelangelo (see photo)
and the loggia in Neoclassical style was to act
as a museum to gather together all the works
by the great artist. In reality this idea was very
soon rejected and in 1876 the loggia was
turned into a restaurant and a panoramic
coffee bar, which are still in operation.
For a guaranteed wow effect, or if you are
feeling in a romantic mood, go there at
sunset. You can reach it by bus or on foot,
walking along the Lungarno, or from Piazza
Poggi, in the district of San Niccolò, climbing
up the charming Rampe del Poggi, a series of
flights of steps, grottos and fountains.
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Palazzo Pitti and its dynastiesA palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno
district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of
the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the
Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious
stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains;
the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest
concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an
important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume
(Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today.
Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6
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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2
Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224-558-2382195. Map C5
Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2
Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3
Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7
Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings. The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5
Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2
Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts
| SIGHTSEEINGMUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1
Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semi-precious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1
Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4
Museo di Santa Maria Novella The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi
Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3
Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6
Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the
Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www.santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4
Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2
Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www.basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5
San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITESBiblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici
relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo.com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4
Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6
Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4
Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3
Villa Bardini and Gardens The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin-starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G
The National Museum of the Bargello is located inside the Palazzo of the same name from
the 13th century, the oldest public building in Florence. Its collection of Renaissance statues
is considered among the most significant at world level: it in fact includes masterpieces by
Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati and other important
sculptors, in addition to a large applied arts collection. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it
MUSEO DEL BARGELLO
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FIRENZECARD
Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes:• 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit• Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free.
www.firenzecard.it
www.wheretraveler.com 4140 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
ESSENTIALS
Florence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of
alleyways and sidestreets, derives from
its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period
of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the
Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces
remain. With less than four hundred thousand
inhabitants and covering an area of little more
than a hundred square kilometres, Florence
is practically impossible to tour by car, and in
fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to
vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you
tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but
you can also count on quite an efficient public
transport network (which, however, is severely
limited during the nighttime hours, so take care
after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the
strategic points, whereas private cars are usually
only allowed into the centre to load and unload
your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your
concierge, also so you can receive indications of
where the car parks are located in the centre). To
find your way around the city, it is a good idea
to keep well in mind that Florence is developed
along the two banks of the River Arno. All the
roads that run alongside the river, on both sides,
are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second
part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli
Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre:
it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and
the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on
the other side of the river, to the south, is called
“Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally
outside the historic centre, but today it contains
important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the
Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.
The museum city
Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s
most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the
Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity
that is gradually disappearing, but some traces
of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact,
were divided between “black”, which denoted he
residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red
numbers still remain, so bear that in mind.
Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit.
The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with
the highest tourist density on the entire planet:
wherever you wish to visit, book in advance
(or have them book for you at your hotel).
You should also bear in mind that the serious
overcrowding takes place around mid-morning,
so if you are an early bird then that could give you
a significant advantage.
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE
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EmergencyAMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285FIRE SERVICE – T: 115
PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771.
TaxiTAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it
TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it
www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers.
Fixed taxi fares to airportsFrom Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre):
€22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel).
From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650
Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria
Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min
TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.
ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.www.italotreno.it.
AirportsAEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA
“AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10.
AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it
Getting around FlorenceATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/
Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am-12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802.
Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am). NEW A further step in the digital transformation of Florence’s public transport: today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with S.M. Novella Station has been activated on February 2019. Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence.The entire historic centre
of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter.
Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO -
www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm.
TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email ([email protected]) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours).
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE
www.wheretraveler.com 4342 W H E R E FLORENCE I MAY 2020
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CAMPO DELE ERBE
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CALLE LARGA G. GALLINA
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CALLE DE TOSCANA
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CALLE DEL TINTOR
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CAMPOSAN GIACOMETO
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CAMPOSAN PANTALON
CAMPO DISANTA
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CAMPIELLOSAN GERARDO
CAMPOSAN BESAGIO
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LOREN
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CALLE DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE DE L’OGIO
CALLE DE LA MADONA
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CAMPIELLODE LAVIDA
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CAMPOSAN GALLOC. DEL CAVALLETTO
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CORTETORRETTA
CORTEGRAGOLINA
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C. DELLE STRAZZESESTIERE
DI SAN MARCO
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C A M P OD E L E C A S E
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C A M P I E L L OS A N G I U S E P P E
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FONDAMENTA DELLA MULA
CALLE A. VIVARIN
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CALLE BAROVIER
CALLE DEL CRISTO
CALLE D
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CALLE SAN
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CALLE GIANMARIA ORTES
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FONDAMENTA CRISTOFORO PARMENSE
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CALLE BERTOLIN
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CALLE BERTOLINI
CALLE DELLA PESCHERIA
CALLE ZANETTI
CAMPIELLO DELLA PESCHERIA
C. LARG
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CALLE SAN C
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C A L L E L E O N A R D U C C I
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CALLE QUIRIZIO DA M
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FO
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100 m
100 m
100 m
100 m
P I A Z Z AD E L L E E R B E
S A N T A C R O C E
C A M P OS A N I S E P O
P.le Roma Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Riva de Biaso
S.Marcuola
S.Stae
Cà d'Oro
Rialto
S.Silvestro
Sant'Angelo
S. Toma' SX
S. SamueleCa' Rezzonico
Accademia
S. Basilio
Zattere
Giudecca Palanca
Redentore
Zitelle
S. Giorgio
Giudecca Hilton
Giudecca Hilton
Rialto(Palazzo Cavalli)
C A N N A R E G I O
CALLE DEL LA STUA
C. DE
L TRA
GHET
O
CAMPIELLOWIDMANN
CAMPIELLOSTELLA
CORTE DELREMER
CAMPIELLODEL PESTRIN
CORTE DELPOZETODE ORO
CORTE NOVA
CORTECORTESE
CAMPODE LA CARITA’
CAMPIELLODE LA MADONNA
S. Servolo
Sant'Elena
San Giuseppedi Castello
JapanPavilion
RussiaPavilion
United StatesPavilion
San Francescodi Paola
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello
La Biennale di VeneziaTeatro alle Tese
La Biennale di VeneziaEducational Arsenale
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
Scuola Navale Militare"Francesco Morosini"
Tempio VotivoDella Pace Di Venezia
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia
Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
Hotel Excelsior Venice
S. Antonio Di Padova
Basilica di San Marco
Palazzo Ducale
San Giuliano
Santa Mariadella Fava
o della Consolazione
Santa MariaFormosa
PalazzoQuerini
Stampalia
PalazzoGrimani
San Lorenzo
San Giovannidi MaltaSan Salvador
San Beneto San Luca
PalazzoGrimani
PalazzoNervi
ScattolinPalazzo Fortuny
San Giacomodi Rialto
San Silvestro
PalazzoRava
Sant’Aponal
San CassianoSanta Maria
Mater DominiCAMPO
SANTA MARIAMATER DOMINI
Palazzo Grioni
Pontedi Rialto
PalazzoQuerini-Dubois
Chiesa Rettorialedi S. Polo
Palazzo Balbi
Palazzo GiustinianPersico
San Tomà
Fontegodei Tedeschi
FontegoDolfin Manin
TeatroCarlo Goldoni
Basilica deiSanti Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPOSANTI GIOVANNI
E PAOLO
San Lazzarodei Mendicanti
Santa Maria del Pianto
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
San Francescodella Vigna
Santa Mariadei Miracoli
S.Canciano
Santi Apostoli
Chiesa EvangelicaLuterana
San GiovanniGrisostomo
Teatro Malibran
Casa di Marco Polo
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
San Rocco Basilicadei Frari
San Pantalon
San Nicolòdei Mendicoli
AngeloRaffaele
San Sebastiano
San Barnaba
Ca' Rezzonico
PalazzoGrassi
PalazzoMocenigo
Palazzo Loredan
Santo Stefano
San Maurizio
Santa Mariadel Giglio
Santa Mariadel Giglio
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
Giardini
Salute
San Vidal
CAMPIELLOSAN VIDAL
San SamueleSanta Mariadei Carmini
Istituto UniversitarioDi Architettura
San Nicolada Tolentino
Collezione PeggyGuggenheim
Teatro la Fenice
San Fantin
San Moisè
MuseoCorrer
Ca' Giustinian
Basilica diSanta Mariadella Salute
Galleriedell'Accademia
Pontedell'Accademia
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
Santa Mariadel Rosario Sant’Agnese
San Gregorio
PalazzoGenovese
PalazzoPisaniGritti
PalazzoCornerdella
Ca’Granda
Spirito Santo
Spirito Santo
San Trovaso
CAMPOSAN TROVASO
CAMPODELLA CARITÀ
CAMPO DISANT'AGNESE
CAMPO DISAN VIO
Chiesa di Ognissanti
Punta della Dogana
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
Santa Mariadi Nazareth
San Geremia
Palazzo LabiaSalone del Tiepolo
San Marcuola
San Leonardo
Palazzo Nani
Ospedale FatebenefratelliSan Raffaele Arcangelo
Madonna dell'Orto
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
Chiesa dei SantiMaria e Donato
Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
Chiesa S. Erasmo
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
Ponte Lungo
Faro di Murano
Santa Maria degli Angeli
Cimitero Nuovo
San Stae
PalazzoGidoni
San ZanDegola
San Felice
Ca’ D’OroSanta Sofia
La MaddalenaSanta Fosca
Abaziadella Misericordia
Ca' PesaroGalleria Internazionale
d'Arte Moderna
Museo Ebraico
San Girolamo
Sant'Alvise
MonasteroCarmelitane Scalze
San Giobbe
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
San SimeonPiccolo
Pontedegli Scalzi
San SimeoneProfeta
PalazzoSoranzoCapello
San Giacomodall'Orio
MuseoCivico
Di StoriaNaturale
Pontedella Costituzione
Sant'Andrea
People Mover Venezia
People Mover Venezia
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
People Mover Venezia
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
Le Zitelle
Santa Croce
Santissimo Redentore
Sant'EufemiaSan GerardoTeatro Verde
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
Lido S. Nicolo'
I S O L A D IS A N G I O R G I O
M A G G I O R E
SANT’ELENA
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
ISOLA SAN SPIRITO
ISOLA POVEGLIA
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
S A C C AS A N B I A G I O
S A C C AF I S O L A
M U R A N O
B U R A N O
M A Z Z O R B O
I S O L A M A Z Z O R B E T T O
I S O L A D E I L A G H I
S A N F R A N C E S C OD E L D E S E R T O
T O R C E L L O
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
ISOLA CAMPALTO
ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA CARBONERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
M E S T R EC A M P A L T O
P O R T O M A R G H E R A
I S O L A D E L L E T R E S S E
B A G A R O N
S A N T ’ E R A S M O
C A V A L L I N O T R E P O R T I
C A ’ S A V I O
T R E P O R T I
P U N T A S A B B I O N IL E V I G N O L E
S A N M I C H E L E
S A C C A
S E R E N E L L A
LA CERTOSA
V E N E Z I A
L I D O D I V E N E Z I A
M A L A M O C C O
SAN SERVOLO
ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Arsenale di Venezia
San Martino
San Giovanni Battistain Bragora
Santa Mariadella Pietà
San Zaccaria
San Giovanni Novo
San Giorgiodei Greci
PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ
T R O N C H E T T O
N U O V A I S O L A D E L T R O N C H E T T O
Chiesa di San Martino
Chiesa di Santa Caterina
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
Museo Di Torcello
Chiesa di Santa Fosca
Chiesa S. Maria Assunta
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Rio San Salvador
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12
1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
2 PALAZZO DUCALE
3 CANAL GRANDE
4 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI
5 TEATRO LA FENICE
6 PONTE DI RIALTO
7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA
8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO
9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO
10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE
11 LIDO DI VENEZIA
12 THE GHETTO
13 MURANO
14 BURANO
15 TORCELLO
16 SAN CLEMENTE
ARSENALE
GIARDINI
Canale di Cannaregio
Canal Grande
Canal Grande
Canal Grande
Canal Grande
Canal Grande
Rio
de
l G
i ar d
i ni
Arsenale di Venezia
Rio
del P
onte
Lun
go
Rio di Sant'Alvise
Rio della Madonna dell'Orto
Rio della Sensa
Rio della Misericordia
Rio de Servi
Canale
della
Mise
ricord
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Rio
dei
San
ti A
post
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Rio San Lorenzo
Rio
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men
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Rio de le Vergini
Rio
de S
an G
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amo
BacinoOrseolo
Rio San Moise
Rio Del Palazzo
Rio Nuovo
Rio del Carmini
Rio dei Tolentini
Rio Del Magazen
Rio de le Muneghete
Canale
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comen
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P I A Z Z A S A N M A R C O
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F O N D A M E N TA S A N G I A C O M O
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CALLE RENIER
CALLE DEL FOMO
CALLE L
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CALLE RAGUSEI
CALLE CONTARINA
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CALLE DI CA’ MATTA
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CAMPOSAN GIACOMETO
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CAMPOSAN LIO
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CAMPOSAN STIN
CAMPODEI FRARI
CAMPOSAN TOMÀ
CAMPOSAN ROCCO
CAMPOSAN PANTALON
CAMPO DISANTA
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CAMPOSAN SEBASTIAN
CAMPIELLODEL VAPORETTO
CAMPIELLOSAN GERARDO
CAMPOSAN BESAGIO
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CALLE DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE DE L’OGIO
CALLE DE LA MADONA
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CAMPODE L’ANZOLO
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SQUELINI
CAMPIELLODE LAVIDA
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CAMPOSANT’ANZOLO
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CAMPOSAN GALLOC. DEL CAVALLETTO
FONDAMENTA ORSEOLO
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CAMPOSAN BENETO
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CAMPOSAN MAURIZIO
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CAMPIELLODEI CALEGHERI
CAMPIELLOCONTARINI
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V IALE DELLA L IBERTA’
CAMPODEI GESUIT I
C A M P OS A N D O N AT O
C A M P OD E L E C A S E
N O V E
C A M P I E L L OP. B I G A G L I A
C A M P I E L L OS A N G I U S E P P E
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CALLE BAROVIER
CALLE DEL CRISTO
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
CALLE SAN NICOLO’
CALLE GIANMARIA ORTES
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FONDAMENTA CRISTOFORO PARMENSE
CALLE PAOLO VENINI
CA L L E D I E T R O
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CALLE BERTOLINI
CALLE BERTOLINI
CALLE DELLA PESCHERIA
CALLE ZANETTI
CAMPIELLO DELLA PESCHERIA
C. LARGA DEL PRË
CALLE SAN CIPRIANO
C A L L E L E O N A R D U C C I
CALLE UGO FOSCOLO
CALLE QUIRIZIO DA MURANO
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CALLE M
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CALLE M IOT I
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100 m
100 m
100 m
100 m
P I A Z Z AD E L L E E R B E
S A N T A C R O C E
C A M P OS A N I S E P O
P.le Roma Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Riva de Biaso
S.Marcuola
S.Stae
Cà d'Oro
Rialto
S.Silvestro
Sant'Angelo
S. Toma' SX
S. SamueleCa' Rezzonico
Accademia
S. Basilio
Zattere
Giudecca Palanca
Redentore
Zitelle
S. Giorgio
Giudecca Hilton
Giudecca Hilton
Rialto(Palazzo Cavalli)
C A N N A R E G I O
CALLE DEL LA STUA
C. DEL
TRAGH
ETO
CAMPIELLOWIDMANN
CAMPIELLOSTELLA
CORTE DELREMER
CAMPIELLODEL PESTRIN
CORTE DELPOZETODE ORO
CORTE NOVA
CORTECORTESE
CAMPODE LA CARITA’
CAMPIELLODE LA MADONNA
S. Servolo
Sant'Elena
San Giuseppedi Castello
JapanPavilion
RussiaPavilion
United StatesPavilion
San Francescodi Paola
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello
La Biennale di VeneziaTeatro alle Tese
La Biennale di VeneziaEducational Arsenale
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
Scuola Navale Militare"Francesco Morosini"
Tempio VotivoDella Pace Di Venezia
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia
Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
Hotel Excelsior Venice
S. Antonio Di Padova
Basilica di San Marco
Palazzo Ducale
San Giuliano
Santa Mariadella Fava
o della Consolazione
Santa MariaFormosa
PalazzoQuerini
Stampalia
PalazzoGrimani
San Lorenzo
San Giovannidi MaltaSan Salvador
San Beneto San Luca
PalazzoGrimani
PalazzoNervi
ScattolinPalazzo Fortuny
San Giacomodi Rialto
San Silvestro
PalazzoRava
Sant’Aponal
San CassianoSanta Maria
Mater DominiCAMPO
SANTA MARIAMATER DOMINI
Palazzo Grioni
Pontedi Rialto
PalazzoQuerini-Dubois
Chiesa Rettorialedi S. Polo
Palazzo Balbi
Palazzo Giustinian
Persico
San Tomà
Fontegodei Tedeschi
FontegoDolfin Manin
TeatroCarlo Goldoni
Basilica deiSanti Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPOSANTI GIOVANNI
E PAOLO
San Lazzarodei Mendicanti
Santa Maria del Pianto
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
San Francescodella Vigna
Santa Mariadei Miracoli
S.Canciano
Santi Apostoli
Chiesa EvangelicaLuterana
San GiovanniGrisostomo
Teatro Malibran
Casa di Marco Polo
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
San Rocco Basilicadei Frari
San Pantalon
San Nicolòdei Mendicoli
AngeloRaffaele
San Sebastiano
San Barnaba
Ca' Rezzonico
PalazzoGrassi
PalazzoMocenigo
Palazzo Loredan
Santo Stefano
San Maurizio
Santa Mariadel Giglio
Santa Mariadel Giglio
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
Giardini
Salute
San Vidal
CAMPIELLOSAN VIDAL
San SamueleSanta Mariadei Carmini
Istituto UniversitarioDi Architettura
San Nicolada Tolentino
Collezione PeggyGuggenheim
Teatro la Fenice
San Fantin
San Moisè
MuseoCorrer
Ca' Giustinian
Basilica diSanta Mariadella Salute
Galleriedell'Accademia
Pontedell'Accademia
Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
Santa Mariadel Rosario Sant’Agnese
San Gregorio
PalazzoGenovese
PalazzoPisaniGritti
PalazzoCornerdella
Ca’Granda
Spirito Santo
Spirito Santo
San Trovaso
CAMPOSAN TROVASO
CAMPODELLA CARITÀ
CAMPO DISANT'AGNESE
CAMPO DISAN VIO
Chiesa di Ognissanti
Punta della Dogana
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
Santa Mariadi Nazareth
San Geremia
Palazzo LabiaSalone del Tiepolo
San Marcuola
San Leonardo
Palazzo Nani
Ospedale FatebenefratelliSan Raffaele Arcangelo
Madonna dell'Orto
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
Chiesa dei SantiMaria e Donato
Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
Chiesa S. Erasmo
Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
Ponte Lungo
Faro di Murano
Santa Maria degli Angeli
Cimitero Nuovo
San Stae
PalazzoGidoni
San ZanDegola
San Felice
Ca’ D’OroSanta Sofia
La MaddalenaSanta Fosca
Abaziadella Misericordia
Ca' PesaroGalleria Internazionale
d'Arte Moderna
Museo Ebraico
San Girolamo
Sant'Alvise
MonasteroCarmelitane Scalze
San Giobbe
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
San SimeonPiccolo
Pontedegli Scalzi
San SimeoneProfeta
PalazzoSoranzoCapello
San Giacomodall'Orio
MuseoCivico
Di StoriaNaturale
Pontedella Costituzione
Sant'Andrea
People Mover Venezia
People Mover Venezia
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
People Mover Venezia
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
Le Zitelle
Santa Croce
Santissimo Redentore
Sant'EufemiaSan GerardoTeatro Verde
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
Lido S. Nicolo'
I S O L A D IS A N G I O R G I O
M A G G I O R E
SANT’ELENA
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
ISOLA SAN SPIRITO
ISOLA POVEGLIA
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
S A C C AS A N B I A G I O
S A C C AF I S O L A
M U R A N O
B U R A N O
M A Z Z O R B O
I S O L A M A Z Z O R B E T T O
I S O L A D E I L A G H I
S A N F R A N C E S C OD E L D E S E R T O
T O R C E L L O
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
ISOLA CAMPALTO
ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA CARBONERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
M E S T R EC A M P A L T O
P O R T O M A R G H E R A
I S O L A D E L L E T R E S S E
B A G A R O N
S A N T ’ E R A S M O
C A V A L L I N O T R E P O R T I
C A ’ S A V I O
T R E P O R T I
P U N T A S A B B I O N IL E V I G N O L E
S A N M I C H E L E
S A C C A
S E R E N E L L A
LA CERTOSA
V E N E Z I A
L I D O D I V E N E Z I A
M A L A M O C C O
SAN SERVOLO
ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Arsenale di Venezia
San Martino
San Giovanni Battistain Bragora
Santa Mariadella Pietà
San Zaccaria
San Giovanni Novo
San Giorgiodei Greci
PONTE DELLA LIBERTÀ
T R O N C H E T T O
N U O V A I S O L A D E L T R O N C H E T T O
Chiesa di San Martino
Chiesa di Santa Caterina
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
Museo Di Torcello
Chiesa di Santa Fosca
Chiesa S. Maria Assunta
Ponte dei Tre Archi
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FONDAMENTA SALUTECAMPODELLA
SALUTE
CORTE DELTEATRO
CORTE DELSABION CAMPO
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CORTERUBBI CORTE
LICINI
CORTEFRUTARIOLI CORTE
NUOVA CORTE DELPOZZO ROVERSO
CAMPOSAN ZUANENOVO
CAMPIELLOQUERINISTAMPALIA
CAMPIELLOSANTA MARIAFORMOSAFONDAMENTADEI PRETI
CORTEDEL MONDONUOVO
CORTEDELPRESTRIN
CORTETREVISAN
CORTEDEL FORNO
PIAZZETTADEI LEONCINI
CORTETRAMONTIN
CORTEDELFORNOVECCHIO
CORTESAN SALVADOR
Rio San Salvador
DE LE
RIO TERÀ COLONNE
CAMPIELLOSAN CATALDO
FON D A M E NTA SEBASTIANO SA
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F O N D A M E N TA A NTONIO C
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FONDAMENTA CAO D I R IO A DESTRA
FONDAMENTA CAO DI RIO A SINISTRA
V I A DE LA V IGNA
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FONDAMENTA PONTINELLO DESTRA
FONDAMENTA PONTINELLO S IN ISTRA
FONDAMENTA DE I SQUERI
FONDAMENTA D I C
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FOND
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FONDAMENTA DELLA PESCHERIA
FONDAMENTA DEL PIZZO
FONDAMENTA SAN MAURO
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CALL
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FONDAMENTA DI SANTA CATERINA
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Casino di Venezia
AEROPORTO MARCO POLO
15
VENEZIA
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MURANO 13
BURANO14
TORCELLO
1116SAN CLEMENTEPALACE KEMPINSKI
PALACE KEMPINSKI
10 MINUTES BY ONE OF HOTEL’S COMPLIMENTARY BOATS FROM ST. MARCO
P I A Z Z AD E L L A
R E P U B B L I C APIAZZA
MANUELEFILIBERTO
PIAZZET TADELLA
VISITAZIONE
R O N D ÒR I V E L L A
L A R G OB R E S C I A
P I A Z Z AS O F I A
L A R G OB O L O G N A
P I A Z Z AG I O V A N N IB O T T E S I N I
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PIAZZATRE
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P I A Z Z AS T A T U T O
P I A Z Z AB A R C E L L O N A
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PIAZZAPEYRON
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P I A Z Z AD E L L AF O R C A
P I A Z Z AM A R I A
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P I A Z Z AG E N E R A L EA N T O N I O
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PIAZZAFRANCESCO
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P I A Z Z AV E T T A
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P I A Z Z AD E R N A
P I A Z Z ACO N T I
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P I A Z Z AL U I G I
M A T T I R O L O
P I A Z Z AR U G G E R OB O N G H I ,
P I A Z Z AP A S Q U A L E
V I L L A R I
L A R G OS T R A D E L L A
P I A Z Z AC A S T E L L O
L A R G OM O N T E B E L L O
P I A Z Z A H E R M A D A
P I A Z Z AG U I D O
G O Z Z A N O
P I A Z Z A L ER E G I N A
M A R G H E R I T A
P I A Z Z A
S A V O I A
PIAZZA
ARBARELLO
P I A Z Z AA D R I A N O
P I A Z Z AD E L
M O N A S T E R O
PIAZZASABOTINO
P I A Z Z AF I L I P P O
G A L V A G N O
PIAZZALEGIAN MARIA
VOLONTÈ
P I A Z Z AR I V O L I
PIAZZA
MASSAUA
P I A Z Z AB E R N I N I
PIAZZALUIGI MARTINI,
PIAZZARISORGIMENTO
P I A Z Z AG I U S E P P EP E R O T T I
P I A Z Z AG I A M P I E T R O
C H I R O N I
P I A Z Z AT O M M A S O
C A M PA N E L L A
L A R G ON I C O L AFA B R I Z I
PIAZZA
CARIGNANO
PIAZZACARLO
ALBERTO
PIAZZACARLO
EMANUELE II
PIAZZA
CAVOURPIAZZAMARIATERESA
PIAZZAMADAMACRISTINA
LARGOSALUZZO
PIAZZADE AMICIS
PIAZZAMUZIO
SCEVOLA
PIAZZANIZZA
PIAZZAPIETRO
PALEOCAPA
PIAZZALAGRANGE
PIAZZABODONI
PIAZZACARLOFELICE
PIAZZASANTA RITADA CASCIA
PIAZZAPITAGORA
PIAZZAMARMOLADA
LARGOTIRRENO
PIAZZALECOSTANTINO
IL GRANDE
PIAZZADON FRANCO
DELPIANO
PIAZZAGENERALEROBILANT
LARGO VITTORIOEMANUELE II
PIAZZALEDUCA D’AOSTA
PIAZZACARLO ALBERTODALLA CHIESA
PIAZZETTAMANLIOBROSIO
P I A Z Z A
P O L O N I A
P I A Z Z A
B E N G A S I
P I A Z Z AV I T T O R I O
V E N E T O
P I A Z Z AS A N C A R L O
P I A Z Z AC L N
P I A Z Z AS O L F E R I N O
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista
Galleria Sabauda
Museo di Antichità
Ex Scalo Vanchiglia
Cimitero Monumentale di Torino
Area Archeologicadel Teatro Romano
Porta PalatinaBasilicaMauriziana
MercatoIttico
MercatoAlimentare
MercatoAlimentare
Centro PalatinoPala Fuksas
Galle
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Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice
CHIESAStimmate di
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ParrocchiaS. Alfonso Maria
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Chiesa Parr. S. Anna
ParrocchiaMaria Reginadelle Missioni
ParrocchiaGesù Nazareno
ParrocchiaSan Pellegrino Laziosi
Parrocchia S. Rosa Da Lima
ParrocchiaSan Benedetto Abate
ParrocchiaGesù Buon Pastore
Madonna della Guardia
Stadio Primo Nebiolo
Palazzo dello Sport Ru�ni
Le GruCentro Commerciale
ParrocchiaGesù Adolescente
ParrocchiaSan Bernardino
Chiesa Santa Teresa
ParrocchiaBeata Verginedelle Grazie
Ospedale Umberto I di Torino
ChiesaCristiana Evangelica
San Francesco di Sales
Istituto Maria Consolatrice
Giardino FrancescaLaura Morvillo
Chiesa Luterana
GiardinoWalter
Ferrarotti
Chiesa ParrocchialeS. Rita da Cascia
Parrocchia Natale del Signore
ParrocchiaMadonnadelle Rose
Parrocchia Assunzionedi Maria Vergine
Giardino San Paolo Giardino Caduti diCefalonia e Corfù
Fondazione Mario Merz
Chiesa S. Giovanna D'Arco
Chiesa CristianaEvangelica Pentecostale
ChiesaMadonna
Divina Provvidenza
Chiesa La Visitazione
Nostra Signora delSacro Cuore di Gesù
ParrocchiaSan Leonardo Murialdo
ChiesaNatività
di Maria Vergine
GiardinoLuigi Chignoli
Ospedale Martini
GiardinoBambini di Beslan
Giardino exVenchi Unica
Paradiso
Giardino Giuseppe Del�no
Parco della Tesoriera
ParrocchiaS. Ermenegildo
Re e Martire
Il Fungo di Corso Telesio
OspedaleMaria Vittoria
ChiesaImmacolata Concezione
San Donato ChiesaSacra Famiglia
Principi d'Acaja
XVIII Dicembre
Porta Susa
Vinzaglio
Re Umberto
Porta Nuova
Marconi
Nizza
Dante
CarducciMolinette
Spezia
Lingotto
BerniniRacconigi
RivoliMonte Grappa
Pozzo Strada
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Marche Massaua
ChiesaEvangelica Valdese
ChiesaNostra Signoradel Su�ragio
Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia
Chiesa del Santo Volto
Giardino Cavallotti
Chiesa Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret
Chiesa SantaCaterina da Siena
Chiesa Parr. S.GiuseppeBenedetto Cottolengo
StazioneMadonna di Campagna
ChiesaMadonna di Campagna
GiardinoDon Gnocchi
Centro Pierodella Francesca
Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp
Parco Pubblico Pellerina
Mario Carrara
Piazza Chiesa della Salute
Parco AurelioPeccei
Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra
Ospedale San GiovanniBosco
Giardino Jaquerio
Parco Sempione Est
Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossata
Stazione Torino Dora GTT
MEF Museo Ettore Fico
Parco Sempione
Parco Dora
GiardinoMarinoFerraro
San Pietro in Vincoli
ParrocchiaMaria Regina
Della Pace
Parrocchia Gesù Operaio
ParrocchiaSan Domenico Savio
Teatro Monterosa
Piscina scolastica comunale E8
Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene
Giardini delPiazzale dellaCroce Rossa
Piccola Casa dellaDivina Provvidenza
Cottolengo
Chiesa di S. Gioachino
Santuariodella Consolata
Anagrafe
Ex Ospedale San Luigi
Chiesa diSanta Chiara
San GiovanniBattista
Chiesa diSant’Agostino
GiardinoJan Palach
Chiesa delCarmine
Chiesa diSan Dalmazzo
Chiesa diSan Domenico
Municipio di Torino
Santuario diSanta Maria
di Piazza
Chiesadella
MisericordiaParrocchiaSanta Barbara
Vergine e Martire
PalazzodellaLuce
Chiesa dei Santi Martiri
S. Rocco
Chiesa diSan Francesco D'Assisi
Chiesa diSan Tommaso
Chiesa diSanta Teresa D'Avila
Chiesa diSan Filippo Neri
Museo Egizio
Galleria S. Federico
Chiesa diSan Carlo Borromeo
Chiesa dellaVisitazione
Chiesa dell’ImmacolataConcezione
Teatro Vittoria
Chiesa di San Secondo Martire
Chiesa di Santa Cristina
S. Giuseppe
GiardinoLamarmora
Giardino Andrea Guglielminetti
CasermaCernaia
Mastio della Cittadella
StazionePortaSusa
Ex Stazione Porta Susa
Grattacielo Intesa Sanpaolo
Sant’Antonioda Padova
Santi Angeli Custodi
GAM - Galleria Civicad'Arte Moderna
e Contemporanea
Museo del Carcere Le Nuove
OGR - O�cine Grandi Riparazioni
Politecnico di Torino
Politecnico di Torino
GiardinoNicolaGrosa
Giardino Caserma Lamarmora
Tribunale di Torino
Giardini Reali Superiori
Palazzo Reale di Torino
PalazzoChiablese
U�ciComunali
Real Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa SS. Trinita
Teatro Regio
GalleriaSubalpina
Auditorium Rai
Radio Rai
Teatro Gobetti
Teatro Stabile
Museo della Radioe della Televisione
BibliotecaNazionale
Universitaria
Stazione di TorinoPorta Nuova
Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubri�cantiStazione Torino Lingotto
Lingotto Fiere
Eataly Torino
Lingotto
Passerella Olimpica
Pinacoteca Giovannie Marella Agnelli
Torre Regione Piemonte
Museo dell'Automobile di Torino
Ospedale Regina Margherita
Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi
Parco Naturale di Stupinigi
Parrocchia di Stupinigi
Palavela
Palazzo del Lavoro
Giardino Corpo
Italiano di Liberazione
Giardino
Giuseppe Levi
ChiesaSan Francesco
da Paola
Chiesa di San MassimoS. Francesco di Sales
Chiesa diSan GiovanniEvangelista
Ponte Umberto I
Tempio Valdesedi TorinoComunità
Ebraicadi Torino
ParrocchiaSanti Pietro
e Paolo Apostoli
ParrocchiaSacro Cuore
di Maria
IstitutoSuore Sacramentine
Di Bergamo
ParrocchiaSantuario
Sacro Cuore di Gesù
Parrocchia San Giorgio Martire
Castello del Valentino
Parco del Valentino
Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio
Fiat Chrysler Automobiles
Parco Cavalieridi Vittorio Veneto
Parco Colletta
Parco del Meisino
Parco della Con�uenza
Parco Rignon
Giardino CesareValperga di Masino
Stadio Olimpico Grande Torino di Torino
Cimitero Parco
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Museo diAntropologia Criminale
Teatro Nuovo
GiardinoGiorgio Anglesio
Ponte Isabella
Ponte Balbis
ParcoMuratori
OspedaleMolinette
ConservatorioStatale di Musica"Giuseppe Verdi"
Chiesa Ortodossarumena di Santa Croce
Museo di MineralogiaGiorgio Spezia
OspedaleSan Giovanni Vecchio
Camera di commercio di TorinoChiesa di Santa Pelagia
San Michele Arcangelo
Giardino Aiuola Balbo
Chiesa Gran Madre Di Dio
Santa Maria delMonte dei Cappuccini
Parco pubblico di Villa Genero
Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I
Madonna degli Angeli
Chiesa dellaSS. Annunziata
Piazzale Aldo Moro
Mole AntonellianaMuseo Nazionale del Cinema
PalazzoNuovo
Dipartimento di Filoso�ae Scienze dell'Educazione
Chiesa di Santa Giulia
Chiesa Ortodossa russa di San Massimo
ParcoIgnazio
Michelotti
Ponte Regina Margherita
Chiesa delSantissimo
Nome Di Gesù
Campus Luigi Einaudi
PalazzoMadama
Torre Littoria
Teatro Carignano
Palazzo Carignano
Museo Nazionaledel Risorgimento Italiano
Basilica Corpus Domini
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5 STARS Belmond Villa San Michele – Via Doccia, 4 (Fiesole) • Off MapBernini Palace – Piazza S. Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria) • Map G4 Four Seasons Hotel Firenze – Borgo Pinti, 99 • L1 Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – Piazza degli Strozzi, 11/r • Map E4Helvetia & Bristol Firenze – Via dei Pescioni, 2 • Map E3Hotel Regency Firenze – Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3 • Map L1Hotel Savoy – Piazza della Repubblica, 7 • Map F3Il Salviatino – Via del Salviatino, 21 (Fiesole) • Off MapLungarno – Borgo San Jacopo, 14 • Map F5 Montebello Splendid – Via G. Garibaldi, 14 • Map B1NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa – Via Porta Rossa, 19 • Map E4Palazzo Vecchietti – Via degli Strozzi, 4 • Map E3Portrait Firenze – Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli, 4 • Map F4 Relais Santa Croce – Via Ghibellina , 87 • Map H4 Sina Villa Medici – Via Il Prato, 42 • Map B1The St. Regis Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 1 • Map C31The Westin Excelsior, Florence – Piazza Ognissanti, 3 • Map C3Villa Cora – Viale Machiavelli, 18 • Off Map Villa La Vedetta – Viale Michelangiolo, 78 • Off MapVille sull’Arno – Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo, 1/3/5 • Off MapVilla Tolomei Hotel & Resort – Via di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10 • Off Map 4 STARSAC Hotel Firenze by Marriott – Via L. Bausi, 5 • Off Map
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LUXURY HISTORIC ACCOMMODATIONSAntica Torre Tornabuoni – Via de’ Tornabuoni, 1 • Map E4Be One Art and Luxury Home – Via dei Brunelleschi, 1 • Map F3Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo– Via De’ Servi, 2 • Map G2
4-STAR BOUTIQUE HOTELS AdAstra – Via del Campuccio, 53 • C6 Grand Amore Hotel & Spa – Via de’ Servi, 38/a • Map H1Messori Suites – Via A. Giacomini, 25 • Off Map Palazzo Castri 1874 – Piazza Indipendenza, 7 • Off Map Riva Lofts Florence– Via Baccio Bandinelli, 98 • Off Map Rivoli Boutique Hotel (S) – Via della Scala, 33 • Map D2 SoprArno Suites – Via Maggio, 35 • D5
COUNTRY HOUSESIl Paluffo – Via Citerna, 144-Fraz. Fiano (Certaldo, Firenze) • Off Map
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