Wine Report 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape

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Chateauneuf-du-Pape Report

The 2009 Vintage

2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Top Wine Picks 3

Introduction 4

History 5

Land, Soil & Weather 6-7

The Grapes 8

Styles & Winemaking 9

Tradition 10

The Market 11

Parker 12

Aging 13

Aging Guide 14

Vintage Guide 15-16

Estate Profiles 17-32

2009 Tasting Notes 33-45

Photographs 46-47

About This Report 48

3

TOP CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE PICKS The 10 Favorite Wines of the Visit

JJ Buckley‘s Top Picks for 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape

2009 Bastide Saint Dominique ―Les Hesperides‖

2009 Clos St Jean ―Deus Ex Machina‖

2009 Domaine de la Solitude (Best Value)

2009 Oliver Hillaire ―Les Petits Pieds d‘Armand‖

2009 Saint Prefert ―Collection Charles Giraud‖

Favorites from other vintages

1990 Chateau Beaucastel

2007 Domaine de la Solitude ―La Reserve Secrete‖

2007 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

2008 Domaine la Barroche ―Signature‖

2008 Domaine Vieux Telegraphe

4

CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE As fun to visit as it is to say

There has been a close relationship be-

tween Chateauneuf du Pape and Ameri-

can wine consumers for decades and it

has existed for many reasons. For in-

stance, many of the first wine guides

published after the repeal of Prohibition

helped to introduce these wines to a

thirsty country. Others trace the popu-

larity of the region‘s wines to the years

just after World War II, as soldiers re-

turned to America with a newly devel-

oped taste for the wines they had dis-

covered near the battlefields. My own

theory is that Americans, not comforta-

ble with French pronunciation, enjoyed

how easily the words ‗Chateauneuf du

Pape‘ rolled off the tongue. To this day,

I can remember seeing phonetic spell-

ings of those very words when I went

with my parents to liquor stores or read

the wine list at a posh restaurant.

Yet even though the wines of the region

have obtained an adequate level of

awareness, they have never garnered

the reputation held by their neighbors

in Bordeaux or Burgundy.

Robert Parker lamented this lack of

recognition years ago and made this

remark in October 1995:

Perhaps consumers and members of the

wine industry are so comfortable with

idea of Chateauneuf du Pape that we

forget about the reality of it. Consumers

know that the wines of the greater Cotes

du Rhone region are incredible values,

and we in the trade are guilty of featur-

ing Gigondas and Vacqueyras as ―poor

man's Chateauneuf.‖ We know of Cha-

teauneuf‘s rock-laden soils and old cas-

tles on hills, yet it does not reside on the

list of top destinations for wine tourism.

And I am just as guilty as anyone. With

25 years in the business and countless

trips to France, I have only been there

twice!

“I have always wondered why Châteauneuf du Papes are not

immensely popular… Since Châteauneuf du Pape tends to be

a wine for hedonists (real wine drinkers) rather than the wine

intelligentsia (who prefer writing and talking about wine to

actually consuming it), the region has received appallingly

little press coverage. But if you are drinking wine for pure

hedonism, few wines deliver the pleasure and completeness

of a top-notch Châteauneuf du Pape.”

Sometimes it takes a shot in the arm to

realize that magical quality of a wine

region, and our booster was a five day

immersion in the wines of the region.

Traveling the winding roads through

plots of small, gnarled vines, we tasted

hundreds of wines and engaged in con-

versations with winemakers across ta-

bles and in dark cellars. It was pure

seduction, and now we‘re hooked.

Again. In this report, we hope you find

the region—its history, its people and,

ultimately, its wines—as charming as

we did.

The JJB team embarking on their Rhone journey

5

HISTORY The papacy and the precedents

Grapes have been grown in Cha-

teauneuf du Pape for centuries, even

before the village became home to the

succession of popes that later gave the

wine its name. While certainly the drink

of choice within the region, outside of

Chateauneuf, the popularity of their

wines ebbed and flowed according to

the whims of the market and at the mer-

cy of numerous political obstacles. It

wasn‘t until a new wave of export mar-

kets developed in the late 19th century

that Chateauneuf began to enjoy some

international renown. Around this time,

the village of Chateauneuf Calcernier,

the regional winemaking center, was

renamed Chateauneuf-du-Pape to take

advantage of the area's historical past.

With increased popularity came a few

interesting problems. Following World

War I, area growers realized fraud was

rapidly tarnishing the reputation of

Chateauneuf. During this time, the bulk

of the region's wines were being pur-

chased by negociants and sold off to

Burgundian winemakers as vin de

medicin in order to add body and color

to their wines. At the same time, estates

such as Fortia and La Nerthe decided to

estate-bottle their wines and started to

command high prices. With the in-

creased demand for the region‘s wines

at both the high and low ends of the

market, there was lots of incentive to

produce poor quality wines or source

grapes from outside of Chateauneuf.

Finally, after a few false starts, Pierre Le

Roy, owner of Chateau Fortia, formed a

committee of local vignerons to set up

rules and regulations to govern the

winemaking and viticultural practices

in the region. Wines which met all the

necessary requirements earned the right

to be called Chateauneuf du Pape.

Many of the regulations agreed upon in

the 1930s remain in effect today, and in

conjunction with the French govern-

ment, possess the force of law. These

later became the foundation of the Ap-

pellation d'Controllee codes that govern

winemaking and grape growing

throughout France today.

The AOC regulations for Chateauneuf du Pape Wines

—Wines must be made from 18 approved varieties (revised from 13 in 1998).

—All wine must have minimum alcohol of 12.5%.

—No chapitalization.

—Vines must be pruned according to certain procedures.

—Wines can only be irrigated during drought conditions.

—The production of rose wines is not allowed.

—All harvesting must be manual.

Ruins of a papal castle Old foudre at Chateau Fortia

6

LAND, SOIL, & WEATHER Between a rock and a hard place

The demarcated growing area for Cha-

teauneuf du Pape is quite limited in

size, as it is restricted by legal regula-

tions. Located a quick 20 minute drive

from the historic town of Avignon, the

compact region measures 50 square

miles, with 8,000 acres of vineyards

planted within the certified area.

If you remember nothing about a visit to

the region, you will certainly never for-

get a vista of vineyards littered with

galets roulés. The smooth, rounded

stones found in northern areas of Cha-

teauneuf du Pape are world renowned

and some of the most photographed

terrains of any winegrowing region.

Many vignerons call these stones

―pebbles‖ but they are anything but that

and are frequently the size of a fist. Pol-

ished from centuries of erosion by glaci-

ers, water and wind, the galets are

prized for their heat retention, provid-

ing nearby vines extra oomph for ripen-

ing.

While the stones give Chateauneuf du

Pape its identifying surface character,

the underlying soil types vary consider-

ably, even within individual plots. Cer-

tain terroirs express themselves clearly,

while others are only understood by the

growers and winemakers who work

them. Most subsoils are a varying com-

bination of clay, limestone and sand

with rounded river stones or sharp-

edged calcareous rocks lying above. In

tasting many of the wines for this re-

port, it became clear that a soft, yet

round palate profile that emphasized a

pure fruit expression came from soils

with very high proportion of sand. Dis-

tinct structural notes with more textural

tannins in the finish were more appar-

ent in wines that came with higher pro-

portions of galets.

Realizing the differences in the soils of

Chateauneuf, some subtle, others strik-

ing, will become increasingly important

as wineries expand the practice of re-

leasing wines from single sites, often

referred to as lieu-dits. Some 134 differ-

ent small plots of varying size and soil

composition have been organized with

defined boundaries developed over the

centuries. The plots within each lieu-dit

are named as well and can be planted to

different varietals on the site‘s array of

soils. As in Burgundy, vines within each

plot may be owned by a number of fam-

ilies and wineries. Most of the smaller

lieu-dits are closer to town and have a

legacy going back centuries, while larg-

er plots that fan out along the border

were organized later.

In fact, it seems surprising that no one has made a bumper sticker, yet, that says ‘Chateauneuf du Pape Rocks!’

7

LAND, SOIL, & WEATHER The plot thickens...

Currently, there is no ranking of vine-

yard sites or crus as in Burgundy or Al-

sace, and the members of the Cha-

teauneuf AOC are not likely to approve

such as measure. But as in any region,

certain plots are better than others.

As more wineries choose to showcase

individual lieu-dits, and with the recent

increase in detailed wine writing and

criticism, certain plots have come to the

fore while others are on the rise to great-

er recognition and prominence. The ―Le

Crau‖ site in the southeastern section of

the AOC is probably the most famous,

largely due to the commercial success of

Vieux Telegraphe. Le Crau‘s reputation

has also been bolstered by noteworthy

wines made by Jerome Quiot of Do-

maine Lazaret and Henri Bonneau,

whose early-picked vineyard sits upon a

high plateau, full of large stones and

varied sub-soils, such as the clay that is

perfect for retaining water in warm

years.

Meanwhile the sandy soils of the lieu-

dits Rayas and Pignan, have had a pro-

found impact on the style of Chateau

Rayas‘ 100% grenache releases. The

popularity of Rayas‘ wines has lead to

increased interest in nearby vineyards

of similar soil type.

A complete understanding about Cha-

teauneuf du Pape would not be possible

without a quick comment about the

weather. It is generally acknowledged

that the temperatures in Chateauneuf

are relatively warm which allows the

most important varietals to get ripe. The

claim to fame for the southern Rhone is

the unique wind pattern called le mistral,

powerful gusts that affect the region

year round and usually last for periods

of two to three days but there have been

numerous times where longer durations

have been recorded. These strong winds

frequently follow rain storms and allow

vineyards to dry quickly, alleviating

disease pressure. With gusts of up to 70

miles per hour, the areas around Cha-

teauneuf are among the windiest in all

of France.

We almost lost Chuck there for a minute!

8

THE GRAPES There’s a new king in town.

It‘s interesting to observe that syrah is

often the first grape to come to mind

when thinking about the wines of the

Rhone. Northern Rhone‘s Hermitage

region, where syrah is king, has a repu-

tation that goes back centuries for pro-

ducing some of the best wines in France.

More recently, syrah has been associat-

ed with California‘s popular ―Rhone

Ranger‖ movement, which has put it on

the radar of domestic wine lovers. Cer-

tainly these factors have contributed to

the perception that syrah is the most

important of the approved Chateauneuf

varieties.

Yet it‘s not syrah but ―lowly‖ grenache

that forms the backbone of the wines of

Chateauneuf du Pape, a grape that odd-

ly has not received the attention nor the

acclaim it deserves. Frequently thought

of as a workhorse variety that is grown

in large quantities for lower-priced eve-

ryday wines, easy-to-grow grenache

often populates less prestigious grow-

ing areas, whereas ―noble‖ syrah has

solidified its image by virtue of being

better suited to cooler, more refined

environs.

While recent wine articles have made an

attempt at upgrading the image of gre-

nache, it still plays second fiddle to sy-

rah. Yet all it takes to change that per-

ception is a trip to the southern Rhone

and an immersion in the wines of Cha-

teauneuf. Grenache does not simply

play a small part in the blends here—it

dominates. A heat-loving variety, grena-

che provides the midpalate fruit gener-

osity and richness we love about Cha-

teauneuf du Pape, while making for a

more drinkable and approachable wine

in its youth.

Depending on where you get your in-

formation, there are between 13-22 dif-

ferent varieties, both red and white, that

are now permissible by the regulations

governing Chateauneuf production. The

difference can be attributed to how the

grapes are counted, in some cases a va-

rietal may have up to three or four rec-

ognized subvarieties or clones. There is

no mandate regarding the proportion of

each variety in the finished wine or

even that more than one grape must be

utilized. Accordingly, blends have var-

ied over time as fashion and market

demands have changed. As mentioned

earlier, when much of the area‘s produc-

tion was being bulked off to wineries in

Burgundy to help boost the intensity of

pinot noir, there was little need for

mourvedre or syrah, so grenache,

whose texture more closely resembles

pinot noir, made up approximately 85-

90% of the plantings at that time.

Today, grenache comprises about 75% of

the grapes planted in Chateauneuf. Sy-

rah and mourvedre plantings have dou-

bled over the last twenty years, largely

as a result of changing tastes and the

increasing fashion of reserve bottlings.

The latter two grapes provide substance

and structure to the finish of the wine.

Their thicker skins also contribute darker

pigmentation to the finished wine. There

are a few wineries currently releasing

100% syrah or mourvedre cuvées and

they are often aged in 100% new oak.

These new wines are adding another

wrinkle to the many styles of Cha-

teauneuf currently under production.

Cinsault is the next most prevalent red

grape grown in Chateauneuf du Pape

although it is grown in very small

amounts compared to the three main

varieties. The grape accounts for less

than 3% of the wine production in the

region but has its champions, including

Julien Barrot at Domaine Barroche. There

are a number of other red varietals that

are produced in such small amounts as

to make a negligible impact on an indi-

vidual winery‘s blend or on the overall

viticulture of the region. Each of these

grapes (counoise, muscardin, vaccarese,

picpoul noir and terret noir) are pro-

duced in amounts that are less than .5%

of the totals for the AOC.

As an aside, the white varieties (clairette,

grenache blanc, bourboulenc, roussanne,

picpoul and picardin) comprise about 7-

8% of all the grapes grown in the Cha-

teauneuf region.

9

STYLES & WINEMAKING To destem or not to destem

While grenache is primarily known for

its juicy, fruity qualities and syrah and

mourvedre are both appreciated for

their structural attributes, some consid-

erably different approaches to wine-

making are another important factor

that accounts for the diversity of wines

produced in Chateauneuf. In addition to

soils and grape selection, the decisions

of winemakers can have as much of an

impact on the final product.

These choices often begin at the crush

pad. Winemakers first face the choice of

fermenting the grapes with bunch stems

or without them. Past winemaking tra-

ditions have been to leave the grapes on

the stems, and many of the wines made

this way, as in the case of Chateau

Rayas, often display more translucent

colors of pale magenta approaching

brick or orange at the rim. The flavors

are more rustic, dominated by pro-

nounced sour cherry. And instead of

thick, viscous textures, the palate feel is

more ethereal, allowing for subtle un-

dertones of dusty spice and earth.

Fermenting with whole bunches can be

a tricky enterprise, however, because

unripe stems may add significant tannin

and/or green flavor components to the

finished wine. Increasingly, Cha-

teauneuf winemakers are choosing to

destem prior to crushing. By using just

the berries, the flavors are juicier and

richer in texture while tannins are either

more subtle or reduced in quantity.

Destemming also accentuates the prima-

ry fruit flavors as opposed to the more

elusive ―savory‖ components provided

by whole bunch fermentation.

Oak is another factor that contributes to

the final flavor profile. Grenache is very

sensitive to oak treatment. Large fermen-

tation and aging vessels such as foudres,

while acting to reduce the richness and

textural components of the finished

wine, allow more delicate and subtle

nuances of cherry and strawberry to

shine through unencumbered. On the

other hand, smaller barriques or tonneaux

concentrate the grape's natural fruit fla-

vors, creating dark wines with voluptu-

ous, mouthfilling textures that rank high

on the scale of hedonism. There's no

denying the seductive appeal of this

style, though it definitely flies in the face

of old-school, traditional producers like

Mont-Redon and Fortia. Syrah and

mourvedre, however, seem to shine in

smaller oak containers and many of the

new reserve-style cuvées being made

today find these grapes being aged in

100% new French oak.

Finally, blending choices are up to the

discretion of the winemaker. Some opt to

make decisions closer to harvest, allow-

ing the varieties to marry as the wine

ages. Others wait as long as possible and

do their blending sessions just prior to

bottling. The thought here is that the lots

which don‘t fulfill their potential can be

discarded, allowing the winemaker the

opportunity to fashion the final blend

with the best components possible.

Chuck Hayward (l) and Shaun Bishop (r) of JJ Buckley meet with

Pierre Pastre, manager & head winemaker at Chateau Fortia

10

TRADITION A noticeable lack of controversy

As often happens in a region with a rich

history of winemaking, long standing

traditions exert a powerful influence on

contemporary practices. Procedures are

frequently handed down from genera-

tion to generation and while incremen-

tal changes occur over time, the core

traditions often remain. The most im-

portant question faced in areas like the

Rhone is whether or not innovation and

creativity in winemaking are hindered

by adherence to traditional practices.

In the case of the wines of Chateauneuf,

the debate about the influence of mod-

ern winemaking techniques has not

been nearly as toxic as it has with wines

like Brunello di Montalcino. JJ Buckley's

recent report on the 2006 vintage in

Montalcino explored these concerns and

found that in Italy, the debate over

which style is the ―true‖ Brunello has

had a polarizing effect on the subject,

frequently marked by rancor, and out-

right vitriol in some cases.

Regarding the wines of Chateauneuf,

there is noticeably less tension and ar-

gumentativeness about this, both in the

press and amongst the region‘s wine-

makers. This is in part because the laws

affecting Chateauneuf are much less

restrictive than those of the Consorzio di

Montalcino, which dictate such diverse

practices as yields, oak aging, and varie-

tal composition (only sangiovese grosso

is permitted) in order for a wine to be in

accordance with DOCG requirements.

The AOC regulations of Chateauneuf

du Pape, while still prescriptive when it

comes to regulations on growing

grapes, allow proprietors much more

freedom in selecting varietals, using

different types of wood and deciding

how long to age their wines. In fact,

many wineries make both traditional

and modern styles, pleasing both seg-

ments of the market. Perhaps there is

something to be learned here!

Vieux Telegraphe’s crowded cellar: where old and new collide

11

The popularity of Chateauneuf du Pape

in America perseveres thanks to the

strong foundation of sales and goodwill

built up over most of the past century,

but it is important to remember that

these wines are also a player on the

world stage.

Although Chateauneuf du Pape produc-

es more wine than any other region in

the southern Rhone, and more than the

entirety of the Northern Rhone, the

amount of wine produced actually pales

in comparison to other regions globally.

Famous areas like Bordeaux, Burgundy

and Napa Valley produce 700, 180 and

110 million bottles per year respectively.

MARKET The numbers game

Chateauneuf, meanwhile, produces a

scant 13.7 million bottles in total. Total

acreage for these four areas is similar as

well: Bordeaux with about 120,000

acres, Burgundy's 62,000, Napa's 43,000

and only 8000 acres devoted to Cha-

teauneuf du Pape. And despite many

technical advances over the past thirty-

odd years, the amount of wine pro-

duced in the appellation in even the

highest volume years has held steady

between 102-110 thousand hectoliters.

Examining these numbers, it's quite

amazing that prices and availability for

wines from Chateauneuf are so reasona-

ble compared to their peers. This rela-

tive value is one reason that the region's

wines have remained so popular. Given

that there is little more wine that can be

made from the delimited region, any

surge in global demand is sure to create

upward pressure on prices and availa-

bility in the medium to long term. So

enjoy the good times while the wines

are still our ―little secret.‖

Chateauneuf du Pape: nowhere near a billion bottles served

(On the wall at AOC wine bar in Villenueve-les-Avignon)

12

One man is almost singularly responsi-

ble for reminding the American market

about the wines from Chateauneuf du

Pape. In our visits to wineries there, the

name that came up over and over again

was Robert Parker… and not as a focus

of criticism or the cause of high alcohol

levels and powerful oak treatments.

Rather, owners and winemakers over-

whelmingly voiced appreciation about

Parker‘s enthusiasm for their wines and

noted that his continued focus had re-

sulted in greater awareness and better

sales. In discussing his impact, it was

quite interesting to hear the tone of the

conversations which varied from matter

-of-fact acknowledgment to passionate

endorsement.

PARKER He who let the cat out of the bag

The initial impact of Parker's focus on

Chateauneuf was to simply shine a light

on a region that most consumers had

experienced but did not quite under-

stand. As evidenced by his quote in this

report‘s introduction, he still found

these wines to be obscure just 15 years

ago! But to many in the region, what

happened in Chateauneuf was less

about sales and more about raising the

standards of winemaking.

During an extensive visit at Domaine de

la Solitude, winery owner Jean Lançon

explained to me how Parker had influ-

enced area winemakers: by saying,

―When Parker made a Top Ten list, I

said to myself, I want to be on that list.

So I worked hard to improve my wines.

And it was not just me. Other winemak-

ers did the same thing, they wanted to

be on that list. So the influence of Parker

was that everyone made better wines.‖

Another result of Parker's attention to

the wines of Chateauneuf has been a

proliferation of reserve or special bot-

tlings. These cuvées can be based on a

number of factors, depending on the

winemaker's preferences. Most are

vieille vignes selections of older vines

which provide more concentrated fruit

on the palate and more length of flavor

on the finish.

Other cuvées use different oak treat-

ments such as 100% new French bar-

riques instead of larger vessels of older

oak. Still others focus on creating a

blend of differing proportions or mak-

ing a wine from only one variety. For

example, bottling 100% grenache, syrah

or mourvedre creates an altogether dif-

ferent wine compared to a traditional

blend.

These different methods allow wine-

makers to experiment and at the same

time permit wine enthusiasts to witness

innovative wines that offer new inter-

pretations of what the region is capable

of offering. Unfortunately, these bot-

tlings are limited in production and

high in price, but they do continue the

nascent trend of raising the standards in

Chateauneuf.

13

JJ Buckley's visit to the Rhone allowed

us to taste a number of older vintages

and discuss optimal drinking windows

with winemakers. Tasting these older

wines gave us the insight necessary to

come up with some guidelines which

are summarized below. There‘s a defi-

nite ―sweet spot‖ for these wines at

around ten years of age but it boils

down to personal preference. You will

definitely be rewarded by putting some

wines in your cellar.

AGING CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE Suddenly, old wines are new

Older vintages of Chateauneuf du Pape

are quite rare. Its reputation as being

drinkable upon release combined with

its history as a relatively affordable

―bistro‖ wine provided little motivation

for collectors to cellar these wines, even

in so-called great vintages like 1978.

A number of estates that we visited did

not maintain wine libraries for either

sales or educational purposes. For many

winemakers in the past, selling wine

was the key to their livelihood, as every

bottle helped to pay bills and feed the

family. In other cases, personal prefer-

ence came into play. For example, Jean

Lançon‘s father preferred his wines

young and full of fruit so by the time

Jean inherited Domaine de la Solitude,

there was nothing left in the cellar! A

few estates are now establishing pro-

grams to re-release wines with some

bottle age but our recommendation is to

stash some of your favorites in your

collection when they are released in case

you can‘t find any later.

Shaun Bishop (l) and Jean Lancon (r) in the cellar of Domaine de la Solitude

14

AN AGING GUIDE FOR CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE

1-3 years—Chateauneuf du Pape made its reputation on wines that have an immediate appeal. The primary fruit flavors that are so

prevalent in grenache speak loudly at this stage in their life.

4-7 years—At this point, the wines start to coil up in a shell as they begin to lose the exuberant fruit that makes them so seductive in

their youth. Structural notes coming from mourvedre and syrah can dominate the flavors. Drinking wines at this stage might require

some decanting.

8-12 years—This is an intriguing period in the wine's life where the core of primary fruit aromas and flavors remain but secondary

notes like earth and mushroom start to emerge. The balance between these two components will vary based upon the style of the vin-

tage and the cépage of the cuvée. A peak drinking window, you get the best of both worlds with the wine weaving back and forth be-

tween the two stages.

13-16 years—Here the youthful, fruit centered aromas and flavors are fading away and the secondary flavors and aromas of mush-

rooms, leather, fresh earth come to dominate the wine. The darkly colored core of the wine is now translucent and any hints of cherry

-laced fruit will remain in only the most powerful and concentrated of vintages.

17 years+—Wines from exceptional vintages like 1978 and 1990 have the ability to reach this plateau while retaining a modicum of

primary fruit, others might have faded at this point. In the best examples, the wine may take on an extra dimension, with umami and

soy leaving an exotic presence on the palate.

Diving into the past at Vieux Telegraphe

15

VINTAGES 1998-2010 in Chateauneuf du Pape

1998—One of the top vintages in recent times, these wines are approaching perfect maturity and are in peak drinking condition. The

best wines have concentrated fruit components that are just beginning to broaden and where, properly cellared, have a ways to go

before hitting their stride. Ranked up there with vintages like 1978 and 1990.

1999—It seems like every four years or so (2004, 2008), Chateauneuf du Pape makes early drinking, approachable wines that are not

vins du garde but perfectly acceptable wines meant for drinking while benefitting from short term cellaring. They may not make ―old

bones,‖ as the Brits like to say, but most examples are great for current drinking offering a sense of elegance over power and extract.

Drink soon.

2000—This was a grand year of powerful wines full of fruit and tannin. Balanced and complex upon release, the wines are starting to

emerge from their slumber and are now soft and approachable. The top wines might need a few more years to reveal their latent fruit

but expect most examples to peak in the next 6-8 years.

2001—A sleeper vintage that fell in the shadow of the more opulent 2000s, the wines of 2001 are magnificently flavorsome and com-

plex and are showing quite well at the moment. The aromas and flavors still maintain a core of youthful, primary fruit, but secondary

characteristics are starting to reveal themselves. This vintage currently offers the best of both worlds and should show well for anoth-

er 6-10 years.

2002—A year that will be remembered for its horrific weather conditions, marred by incredible amounts of rain that made harvest-

ing any semblance of quality fruit impossible. Most estates declassified their wines or sold off their fruit to negociants.

2003—Following the disastrous weather experienced in the previous year, 2003 dealt another blow to the region. Instead of rain, ex-

treme heat pummeled the vineyards. Weeks of temperatures above 100°F placed an incredible amount of heat stress on grapes and

many vines clearly shut down. A special dispensation from the AOC suspended the regulation forbidding irrigation in the case of

younger vines. Sites with clay subsoils benefitted thanks to their ability to retain water. The wines themselves are drinking well and

are not as dried out or overly alcoholic as the weather might suggest.

The wines of Domaine de la Solitude

16

VINTAGES 1998-2010 in Chateauneuf du Pape, continued

2004—In the realm of years like 1999 and 2008, this vintage provided perfectly acceptable and plenty of good quality wines. They

will not ascend to the heights of 2005, 2007 or 2009 but should not be ignored. Drink over the next 3-5 years.

2005—An excellent vintage that has been largely forgotten in the enthusiasm to secure the 2007s, many winemakers in Chateauneuf

have a clear preference for the wines of this harvest and expect them to show much more complexity and nuance down the road. Al-

ready packed in and closed down, it was interesting that we tasted very few 2005s in our recent visit.

2006—This vintage produced a more classically-styled wine that emphasizes structure over juicy, primary fruit qualities. Like the

wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy in '06, these wines will never be as much about fruit generosity as about structure. Best to cellar this

vintage at this point.

2007—A great year according to many wine writers, there is no denying that there is much to like about this vintage. Gobs of for-

ward, ripe, almost sweet fruit give these wines lots of immediate appeal and their seductive qualities are acknowledged by many in

Chateauneuf. But many winemakers worry about short-term aging with the fruit dropping off a bit too quickly.

2008—A somewhat reserved vintage and quite variable, 2008 offers a hodge-podge of quality with wines varying between mediocre

and exceptional. The harvest was marked by intermittent rains so the producers who were lucky enough to harvest clean fruit made

easy-to-drink, approachable wines that should be drunk over the next 2-5 years. Many special cuvées were not made in this vintage

raising the quality of those estate‘s classic releases. Accordingly, there can be above-average wines available at affordable prices if one

looks around.

2009—Although this vintage has had some detractors who declare the wines to be a bit less than classic, our tastings of the wines

revealed the 2009s to be excellent in quality and cellar-worthy candidates. Full-bodied and concentrated, they do not have the over-

ripe qualities of the 2007s yet still maintain rich fruit concentration that makes them immediately appealing. They all possess the

stuffing to last 15-20 years and most winemakers think they will show better in the long run than the 2007s. This vintage could see

some undervalued releases due to the lack of hype by the critics. Highly recommended.

2010—Right now, the wines are just starting to find themselves and the components of the final blends for this vintage are looking

good with most vignerons expressing very positive feelings. Winemakers are excited about the clean, focused fruit flavors along with

the vintage‘s telltale fresh acidity that promises excellent aging potential.

17

ESTATE PROFILES

Many people find it difficult to separate Chateauneuf du Pape

from the wines of Chateau Beaucastel, they are so inextricably

intertwined. In fact, the rise in popularity of the estate feeds off

the increased recognition of the region and vice versa. But in a

region of just over 300 wineries, Beaucastel stands apart for a

number of unique reasons.

One of those distinctive qualities that separates Beaucastel from

other wineries is that they are one of the few estates to utilize all

13 varietals allowed in Chateauneuf wine in their classic cuvée.

Another is that in an area known for organic viticulture, they

adopted such practices in the 1960s, long before it became hip.

Finally, the estate is known for using a high percentage (up to

30%) of mourvedre in their classic cuvée.

Located on a flat plateau in the northeast corner of the appella-

tion, each grape is planted separately and on soils most appro-

priate to the varietal. The large property extends beyond the

defined boundaries of the Chateauneuf du Pape AOC and the

fruit that is grown outside of the appellation is bottled under the

Coudelet de Beaucastel label which is required to be designated

as a Cotes du Rhone.

The ―Hommage a Jacques Perrin‖ represents the house's tete-de-

cuvée. About 350-450 cases are made when conditions dictate

and the mourvedre grape traditionally dominates the cuvée. A

true vin de garde which demands cellaring, the introduction of

this cuvée in 1999 by Beaucastel, helped to popularize the

―reserve‖ bottling concept that is all the rage in Chateauneuf

today.

The Perrin family has owned the property for a century with

winemaking, instead of selling fruits to the negoce, an integral

part of the domaine for a century prior. The family is actively

involved in every aspect of the estate and the commercial success

of the estate's wines has allowed the family to start a thriving

negociant practice which utilizes grapes from other regions in

the southern Rhone.

While the main objective of JJ Buckley's trip to the Rhone Valley was to examine the 2009s from the northern Rhone

appellations (a report on Cote Rotie, Hermitage, etc is forthcoming), we were unexpectedly struck by the beauty of Cha-

teauneuf du Pape and the hospitality of its people. Whether meeting with winemakers or sales managers, the welcome

was always warm and we felt instantly at home. That held true for legendary estates, as well as small properties where

winemaking tasks were being handed down to the sons, and in some cases, the daughters of the proprietor. Our ques-

tions were answered directly—no topic off limits—and our conversations were engaging and lively. The following are

vignettes of a small portion of the wine estates in the region.

Chateau Beaucastel

In the cellars of Chateau Beaucastel

18

ESTATE PROFILES

Chateau de Beaucastel

2007 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc

80% roussanne, 20% grenache blanc and bourboulenc. 35% of the cuvée was aged in new oak. Color is approaching yellow-gold. Diverse, delicate aromas of honeysuckle and lemon blossom later gain more intense notes of pear and dried apricot. This is a fairly rich wine that has some fat on the midpalate while show-ing some interesting talc-like mineral components that add some texture to the flavorful finish. Flavors of ripe pears and bananas show a tropical aspect to this vintage's palate. The richness and low acidity indicates that short-term drinking over the next few years is advisable. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc

80% roussanne, 15% grenache blanc, 5% blend of picardin, clairette and bourboulenc. Approaching yellow-gold in color, the forward aromas of tropical fruits bring Vieux Telegraphe's exam-ple to mind. Exotic aromas and flavors of mango, banana, pine-apple and syrupy fruit cocktail dominate the palate, which is round and fat with low acidity on the finish. A little more acidity would make for a more lively wine, so drink this over the next 3-5 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc “Roussanne—Vieille Vignes”

100% roussanne that is aged in a combination of new and one-year-old oak with no malolactic. This rare wine (about 400 cases each year) is comprised of 89-year-old vine roussanne. Just ap-proaching yellow-gold coloring, the aromas are of cool region tree fruits that avoid any tropical flavors or textures. Exotic pear, ripe lime and lemon with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg also show up on the focused palate profile. There is ample texture but it's more compact than fat, thanks to integrated acidity, which helps create a long fruit filled finish. Another 2-3 years is essen-tial if you want to see this wine open up a bit, but further cellar-ing will reap rewards, as I have had incredible 10-to-15-year-old bottles of this cuvée. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

2003 Coudoulet de Beaucastel

30% mourvedre, 30% grenache, 20% cinsault, and 20% syrah. This cuvée easily brings to mind an old Burgundy and tasting this wine easily shows why those winemakers saw the virtue in blending Chateauneuf with their cuvées. Showing mature ma-roon colors, some secondary flavors and aromas of dried fruit and fresh mushroom are just starting to appear around a small core of sweet cherry fruit. The seamless fruit texture on the mid-palate bumps up against some soft tannins on the finish. Drink in the next 5-7 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Coudoulet de Beaucastel

Classic spicy and feral aromas of oregano, bay leaf, tarragon, clove and thyme are pure, pristine and offer up a constantly changing bouquet. This is a medium bodied cuvée that is fo-cused on savory fruit flavors with a focused palate profile. The fruit on the palate fades quickly with earthy and spicy tannins on a compact and firm finish. Needs a few years to open up and show the soft fruit characteristics that lurk underneath. Tasted twice. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

19

ESTATE PROFILES

Chateau Beaucastel

1990 Chateau de Beaucastel

This was clearly one of the most incredible wines that our staff, with some accumulated 60 years of tasting experience, had ever tasted. The color is a glowing and luminescent orange-tinged, rose-hued brick, clear with the barest indication of browning. The never-ending mélange of fresh earth, soy, fresh mushroom, Worcestershire sauce and dried cherry aromas are infectious and exciting to witness. The palate shows pinpoint balance; it is soft yet expansive, lightly concentrated and ethereal with a richly textured backpalate, harmonious with the rest of the wine. Deli-cate flavors of dried cherry and peach, umami and subtle hints of beef linger in an endless finish that shows leather and sweet earth notes as well. It is a fascinating combination of primary, secondary and tertiary components. No angles here. Rather, this is a seamless wine that reveals the benefits that can arrive from aging a great wine, leaving one slackjawed and speechless for descriptors, where words do no justice. Drink over the next 3-5 years or sooner for fresher fruit notes. 99 points—Chuck Hay-ward


30% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 10% syrah, 10% counoise, 10% other varietals. Just starting to get opaque at the core, the aromas are still dominated by primary fruit characteristics that are un-traditional expressions from what is normally encountered in Chateauneuf. Spicy, herbal notes are infused into aromas of fraise, dried cherry and unripe blackberry, creating a more angu-lar bouquet. The palate is starting to get supple, expansive and more complex with milk chocolate flavors and textures. The tan-nins are finely textured components of a plush finish. Drink over the next 10-15 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward


Due to both a poor crop as well as severe selection in the cellar, only 40% of the usual production made it into the classic cuvée. Opaque at the core with a rose colored rim, the bouquet is com-prised of high-toned aromas of grilled meat, soy, game and spice with subtle fruit coming out much later with air. This year's re-lease is a medium-bodied effort that shows a softer side of the estate. A hint of slightly sweet black cherry forms the core of the wine and continues on to a mellow finish that is delicate and plushly textured, ending in subtle, savory tannins. Drinkable now and over the next 6-8 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward


30% grenache, 30% mourvedre, 10% syrah, 10% counoise, 10% other varietals. Darkly colored red with a barely opaque core. Subtle scents of fresh mushroom and spice can be coaxed out with time from the closed and reserved bouquet. The palate at this point is focused and compact favoring firmness over plush-ness. Hints of herbs and dried cherry, crisp and crunchy, are noted on the elegantly presented palate. A bit tangy on the finish thanks to the noticeable acidity, textural tannins complete the experience. Needs a few years to unfurl, should be best in 12-15 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

1998 Chateau de Beaucastel “Hommage A Jacques Perrin”

60% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah, and 10% counoise. This is a different ―Hommage‖ with an unusually higher per-centage of grenache in the mix because of a poor mourvedre harvest. Showing an intriguing combination of youth and age in the nose, subtle scents of dark spices, dark earth and fresh meat later evolving and showing hints of anise and fennel. The flavors are intense and still primary with youthful purple fruits at the core of the palate. Softly textured, there is still some develop-ment to be had here with the supple finish supported by some firm, dry tannins. There are another 15 years ahead for this wine easily. 95 points—Chuck Hayward

20

ESTATE PROFILES

Chateau Fortia occupies a special place in the firmament of Cha-

teauneuf du Pape. The estate was owned by Baron Pierre Le Roy

who was responsible for fashioning the regulations that led to

AOC status for the area, and his descendants manage the proper-

ty today. Fortia was one of the first properties in Chateauneuf to

estate bottle their wines, a practice to guarantee their authentici-

ty at a time when fraud threatened the region's future.

The winery itself is a castle with an ancient cellar—dating back

to the late 17th century—housing the old foudres utilized for ag-

ing wine. Holding a number a black-painted foudres on one side

across from which sit alcoves full of recently bottled vintages

stacked á la Champagne, the cramped cellar is a blast from the

past.

Given the winery‘s historical links, it is no wonder that the

classically understated and delicate style of Chateauneuf

should be found at Fortia. A modernist approach is not what is

expected here. The colors are translucent and the flavors soft

and approachable, reminding one of old Burgundies, which

makes sense. There's a reason I have always called grenache

―pinot on steroids‖ and in this case, the wines of Fortia resem-

bles just the pinot by itself.

However, Fortia is not a winery that lets tradition prevent it

from experimenting with new ideas. As Baron Pierre observed,

―The AOC regulations allow us to play, we are not under any

real obligations.‖ Rather than alter the traditional aging meth-

ods in the cellar, Fortia has focused on changes in the cépage .

The ―Cuvée du Baron,‖ introduced in 2001, reduces the

amount of grenache in the blend while increasing the syrah

component. The newer ―Reserve‖ cuvée contains 80% syrah, a

grape that has a long history of successful at the estate.

Chateau Fortia

Tools of the trade at Chateau Fortia

Pierre Pastre In the Tasting Room at Chateau Fortia

21

ESTATE PROFILES

Chateau Fortia

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape

A blend of 55% grenache, 30% syrah and 15% mourvedre, all aged in foudres. A very successful example of a classical and un-derstated Chateauneuf thanks to the successful vintage. Dark in color yet still clear, soft aromas of sour cherries dominate the bouquet. Those cherry scents reappear with a touch more con-centration on the palate. The sweet fruit expression is pure and almost textural while the feathery finish shows the barest of hint of tannin. Should show well over the next 6-8 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée du Baron”

50% syrah, 40% grenache and 10% mourvedre. The core of the wine is clear with the color a bright ruby-red. Here, the bright cherry aromas are more intense and concentrated than the classic cuvée with round, crisp textures. Noticeable structure and a firm finish make for a compact finish that could use a bit more length. Some drying tannins help to constrain the backpalate. Best to wait 4-5 years to let this open up. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve”

80% syrah and 20% Grenache. One of the few syrah–dominated cuvées made in the appellation, this modern Chateauneuf is darkly colored. The concentrated fruit is packed into a tight frame that is coiled and focused showing wound up flavors of black cherry and cassis. Some fresh acidity helps to keep the pro-file compact. Great length can be found in the finish along with firm tannins. The powerful fruit, along with reined-in structure, bodes well for medium-term cellaring, so put this away for 4-6 years or decant vigorously for near term drinking. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

22

ESTATE PROFILES

When visiting Domaine de la Charbonniere, we found ourselves

in the midst of a winery being handed down from one genera-

tion to the next. In this case, we had the chance to catch up with

Caroline and Veronique Maret who have been slowly taking

over the reins of the winery from their father, Michel, who nev-

ertheless remains actively involved in operations. In addition to

the fresh energy coming from the daughters‘ work in the winery,

the cellar was recently expanded with new fermentation equip-

ment as well.

The origins of the estate date back to 1912 when Eugene Maret

purchased property just outside the town of Chateauneuf as a

gift to his wife. Over the years, the property was expanded, and

wines were first made under the current label in 1978. While

wines from the Chateauneuf AOC remain the focus of the estate,

the family also makes some Vacqueyras rouge.

One of the more intriguing aspects to Charbonniere's portfolio is

the range of three special cuvées that have been produced since

the mid-1990s. The Marets own four different parcels of vines in

the lieu-dits of Le Crau, Brusquieres, Mourre des Pedrix, as well

as Charbonniere, the plot which gives the winery its name. Each

of the vineyards has markedly varied soils along with significant

differences in exposures and the temperature variations among

them. Although there is an estate blend that is composed of all

sites, the best lots from each site are bottled separately and afford

Chateauneuf enthusiasts an intimate look at four different sites.

In making their wines, the Marets have chosen to destem 100%

of the incoming fruit and age their cuvées in a combination of

foudres and small oak barrels. The cépage of the blends all have

significant percentages of grenache and are bottled unfiltered.

Our visit included a tasting of older vintages which highlighted

a number of wines that truly reflected the style of each year. Sty-

listically, the wines are medium- to full-bodied showing great

weight, a slight rustic, earthy note throughout and great aging

potential. Definitely a rising star in Chateauneuf!

Domaine de la Charbonniere

Veronique & Caroline Maret of Domaine de la Charbonniere

23

ESTATE PROFILES


2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

40% roussanne, 40%, grenache blanc, 20% clairette. The wine sees 20% new oak and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Clear and pale color. Forward aromas of banana, honey and mead dominate the bouquet. The palate, however, is more struc-tured than fruity with a firm finish that is dry and flavors of un-ripe pears and lemon mingling with nutmeg and spice. 90 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Vacqueyras

60% grenache, 40% syrah. Dark in color, the aromas are slightly rustic, as hints of earth mingle with dried fruit and wood notes. The palate offers up a moderate amount of concentrated boysen-berry and loganberry flavors that are fresh and lively, thanks to some tangy acidity on the finish. Round in texture, the finish is soft with very faint, earthy tannins. Best between 2012-2016. 90 points—Chuck Hayward


A blend of 80% grenache, 10% syrah and 10% mourvedre. The color is a muddled garnet that currently lacks clarity. Not mak-ing an overt statement, this wine relies less on fruit and more on delicate spice flavors. Of medium weight, there is a core of pure fruit wrapped in subtle spice and other savory elements. Show-ing more structure on the finish, this is a simple and straightfor-ward wine to be drunk over the next 4-8 years. 90 points—Chuck Hayward


70% grenache, 15% mourvedre and 15% syrah. Very deeply col-ored. The aromas are reticent and closed, but the flavors are deep and the texture is quite juicy. A beautifully proportioned wine, this is perfectly balanced and harmonious, offering structure on the backpalate as fine tannins contribute to a long, lingering fin-ish. The flavors prompt you to return again and again for anoth-er taste. Approachable now, look for this wine to peak in 8-10 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2004 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieilles Vignes”

Opaque at the core, hints of maturity are starting to appear at the rim. The bouquet is dominated by scents of earth and forest floor and the fruit aromas are currently in the background. Bright and tangy, the vibrant fruit on the midpalate fades a bit quickly as firm tannins kick in at the finish. Currently a bit disjointed, as the mature notes on the nose clash with the more youthful fruit fla-vors on the palate, these components should mesh in a few years to create a more harmonious experience. 91 points—Chuck Hay-ward


Darkly colored at the core, the bouquet is a beautiful and com-plex mélange of rich fruit and woodsy aromas. The richly tex-tured fruit is powerful and concentrated with juicy dark fruit flavors at the core. Somewhat firm with substantial tannins, the finish concentrates more on the wine's fruit and is not drying in the slightest. Should make for great drinking over the next dec-ade. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Vieille Vignes”

Composed of 90% grenache from 80-to-100-year-old vines, the remainder 45-year-old mourvedre grown in the Le Crau lieu-dit. Colored a clear ruby, this is a firm, structured rendition that stresses savory flavors over pure fruit expression. Dry with tex-tural tannins that make up a slightly rough finish, this will age well for 10-12 years. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

24

ESTATE PROFILES


2003 Chateauneuf du Pape “Mourre des Perdrix”

Practically translucent at the core, the rim is showing the barest hint of mature coloration. A whiff of sweet fruit is surrounded by aromas of fresh mushroom and soy sauce. The palate shows much more strength and interest with notes of kirsch and milk chocolate creating mouth-filling textures. Open and ethereal, powerful flavors lurk within the light textures at the core of the wine. Perfectly poised, the wine is drinking quite well at this point, retaining some of its youthful fruit while being more open, thanks to time in the bottle. Drink now and over the next 4-6 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward


70% grenache, 15% syrah, 15% mourvedre. Dark in color, aromas of meat, garrigue and Worcestershire sauce are clearly evident. Round fruit textures provide vibrant juiciness on the midpalate, while tangy acidity keeps the flavors lively and fresh. The fruit flavors trail off a bit too quickly as finely textured tannins linger on the finish to leave a firm impression. A few years in the bottle should help this cuvée settle down, with maturity expected in about 8 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward


69% grenache, 15% syrah, 15% mourvedre, 1% cinsault. A cuvée based on 30-50 year old vines from a site with sandy soils in Courthezon. The bouquet is forward with pure fruit expressions. Very juicy and supple on the palate, flavors of wild cherry are present, with a hint of chocolate. This is a very approachable wine with rich, concentrated fruit flavors that avoid any sense of overripeness. Succulent and just plain delicious, this is a big step up from the winery's standard cuvée. 95 points—Chuck Hay-ward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvée Speciale”

60% grenache and 40% syrah from a lieu-dit in the northwestern section of the appellation that sees more wind and humidity than other areas. The aromas here are quite refined and focused, if a bit reticent, with notes of pepper and spice. The grenache here is not as fruity as in the winery's other cuvées, but there is undenia-ble concentration at the back of the palate that bodes well for some short-term aging. Very complex with layered flavors, the tannins are fine in texture and contribute to a structured finish. Give this wine a few years to open up and know it will last 12-15 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

25

ESTATE PROFILES

Although this property has a rich winemaking history, it has

only been recently that I have come to appreciate how exception-

al their wines are. It was not the special reserve cuvées that cap-

tured my attention, though, but their classic cuvée, whose recent

vintages have offered profoundly rich flavors at a price too good

to be ignored!

The isolated property is a short distance west of the famous Le

Crau vineyards which partially explains the depth of flavors that

this winery can achieve. The estate has its own special micro-

climate situated in a small valley and sheltered from the mistral

winds. No matter which direction you look, the view shows

broad streaks of white among orange-red strips, green foliage

between vines and plots of bristly stumps planted in rows that

stand in stark contrast to the veritable sea of smooth rocks as far

as the eye can see.

Harvesting the entirety of its fruit from the lieu-dit named after

the estate, these wines show a distinctly modern style with dark

hues and pure, lush textures. Much of this comes from the deci-

sion to rid the cellars of the old foudres. Feeling that the cellars

were at risk for microbial infections and that they contributed

very dry tannins to the final blends, owner Jean Lancon replaced

them with smaller barriques, which helped to increase the gener-

osity of fruit on the palate. He takes great care to minimize the

effect of oak on his wines noting, ―I am a winemaker, not a lum-

berjack.‖

All the estate‘s wines are fermented separately and find them-

selves whittled down to about 20 different lots. The final blend is

put together six months before bottling and parcels that do not

make the cut are sold to local negociants. In 2007, an excellent

year in the region, only 10% of the wine was sold off. But the

selection is more severe with difficult harvest like the 2008 which

saw the negociants get 25% of the year‘s wine.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

55% clairette, 10% grenache blanc, 20% roussanne, 15% bour-boulenc. Straw colored. Attractive aromas of lemon blossom, fresh pollen and honey mead initially fill the glass. An example of a fresher style from the appellation, this offers understated flavors of almonds and nuts. The elegant nature of the wine is shaped by fresh acidity, which keeps the flavor profile in bal-ance, and while there is some richness beginning to appear at the backpalate, there is no sense of overripeness here. Wait a few years, as this should get even better, and drink by 2017. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc “Cuvée Barberini”

95% roussanne with 5% grenache blanc. Powerful aromas of lem-on cream with hints of honey reveal themselves on this complex nose. Medium to full bodied with pleasant textures at the core of the wine, the finish is thick and concentrated with intriguing hints of honeyed toast and ripe Bosc pears. Round, plush and approachable, drink now and over the next 3-5 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

Domaine de la Solitude

Jean Lancon of Domaine de la Solitude in his office

26

ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine de la Solitude


Deeply colored and opaque at the core, the rim is magenta. Youthful aromas of fresh garrigue are present, mingling with flavors of dark fruit and cocoa that emerge on the midpalate then pick up concentration and intensity towards the backpalate. The finish is a never ending mélange of sweet fruit and fine tannins, with a final punch of chocolate and hints of fleur de sel. Sumptu-ous at this point, expect continued drinkability over the next 10-12 years. 95 points—Chuck Hayward

2005 Chateauneuf du Pape “La Reserve Secrete”

75% grenache, 15% mourvedre and 10% syrah. This vintage of ―Secrete‖ is open and complex aromatically with bright and fo-cused scents of sweet cherry. The flavors fall in line with the wine's broad aromatic nature by showing supple fruit textures which gracefully caress the palate. Creamy on the midpalate, the tannins are present in the finish but very finely grained. Ap-proachable now, this wine will peak in the next 8-10 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward


65% grenache and 35% syrah, aged in a combination of tank and small oak barrels. Opaque at the core and darkly colored to-wards the rim. With attractive aromas of kirsch mingling with dark fruit, this is a pretty wine that emphasizes a softer interpre-tation of Chateauneuf. Possessing very creamy textures, the pal-ate is less about structure, despite the presence of subtle, small-grained tannins that are barely there on the backpalate. As with some of the other cuvées, a telltale note of bittersweet chocolate appears as well. Best between 2019-2023. 94 points—Chuck Hay-ward


This year's cuvée is comprised of 55% syrah and 45% grenache . It‘s a powerhouse of a wine. Beautifully extracted fruit that is pure and concentrated aromatically, juicy textures are supple-mented with aromas of jujubee candies, grenadine and crème de cassis, along with beef marinade. Forward and enticing, the con-centrated flavors are round and constantly evolving, and the tannins are subtle and understated with the very fine structure perfectly integrated with the lingering fruit on the finish. A seamless wine that can be drunk right away but will go 15-20 years with ease. 97 points—Chuck Hayward

2004 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Barberini”

70% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% mourvedre. While the color of this cuvée seems a bit advanced, there is no mistaking the entic-ing bouquet which offers up a wondrous mix of secondary aro-mas like sweet earth and fresh black truffles to go along with youthful and subtle dark fruit. Medium weighted with a soft core of Bing cherry laced fruits, the finish is firm and dry thanks to some noticeable tannins, though a few more years may help resolve those. Look for peak drinking in ten years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2005 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Barberini”

Darkly colored and opaque at the core. The bouquet shows ripe fruit, initially hinting at raisin but slowly revealing aromas of sour cherry. This is a more structured wine, showcasing a strong presence of dry, firm tannins. Combined with the wine's com-pact shape on the finish and interesting spice notes, this is very reminiscent of a rustic Italian wine… until the flavors of dark fruit and bittersweet chocolate quickly bring you back to the Rhone. Needs another 3-5 years to soften and best drunk by 2026. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2005 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cornelia Constanza”

The first bottling of this cuvée, which is 100% grenache from vines 80 years and older. 25% aged in French oak. The bouquet is starting to show hints of maturity with aromas of fresh earth mingling with expressive scents of kirsch. The attractive, creamy midpalate offers up a perfect expression of ripe and pure grena-che. With the barest hint of overripeness, there is just enough tannin to provide a firm finish. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

27

ESTATE PROFILES

Given this streak of individuality, it should come as no surprise

that he was an early adopter of biodynamic practices in 2002. A

firm believer in destemming, there are no whole bunches used

during fermentation. Foudres are also utilized although small

amounts of wine are aged in barriques.

In the end, however, one does not drink a conversation. It may

spark a memory that I will be lucky to remember, but what will

linger for all of us will be the deliciousness of the wines from this

special property.

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

On the northern boundary of the appellation and not far away

from Chateau Beaucastel lies Domaine de la Vieille Julienne and

its passionate owner, Jean-Paul Daumen. Founded in 1905 by his

great-grandfather, the estate's production was originally just

sold to negociants with small amounts made for family and

friends starting in the 60s. Jean-Paul followed his father's efforts

to improve the winery and has now made it one of the top do-

maines in the appellation. The wines were quite striking but it

was having the chance to meet and chat with Jean-Paul that

proved to be the highlight of our visit.

When visiting the best wineries, conversations frequently turn to

thoughtful, almost spiritual topics that give great insight into the

mind of a winemaker. And so it was that our discussion with

Jean-Paul turned from the details about his estate to the many

larger issues that framed his life. Jean-Paul has a very philo-

sophical view about his role as the owner of the property. ―For

me, transmission of the terroir is important. Each person must

give something new to the estate, to express their personality.

Yet they should not change—they must keep—the typicity of the

estate. I feel the weight of the estate on my shoulders. It is my

duty to do something for the estate.‖

As we chatted around a simple table, I got the impression that he

is a bit of loner—preferring to avoid the social aspects of a life in

the world of wine and just quietly work to make the best wines

he can. In discussing some of the internal political fights in the

area, he declared with a laugh that they can ―continue the war

without me!‖ And he is not afraid to buck the conventions of

how wine should be made, remarking ―I am not convinced that

gallets are important in making wine. Clay is.‖

Jean-Paul Daumen of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

28

ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne


Opaque and almost black in color. The bouquet at this point is quite reserved, possibly indicating that this could be closing up. Flavors of bright cherries are prominent on the palate and are complemented by a sandstone-like minerality. Some vibrant acidity keeps things lively and bright as the midpalate is re-vealed. The fruit on the finish falls out a bit quickly as chunky tannins contribute to the firm and spicy finish. It's probably best to wait a few years on this, as it will be better in 3-5 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward


On the nose, the dense aromas are a touch feral and sauvage with hints of strawberry and bittersweet cocoa. More savory on the palate, there are just hints of sweetness here as the palate show-cases flavors of dark fruit mingling with textural tannins that, although fine in texture, are substantial enough to provide a firm finish. (Although 2007 was a better vintage overall, a reserve cuvée was made in 2006 but not in 2007.) Approachable now, this wine will be best between 2020-2022. 95 points—Chuck Hay-ward


The core is opaque, the color deep and dark. This is an incredible wine which walks the tightrope of full extraction while maintain-ing a sense of structure and avoiding a tannic presence or jammi-ness. Flavors of dark fruit and kirsch are intertwined with the appropriate acidity to keep the palate fresh. The finish is struc-tured, a touch tangy and firm, while preserving softness as fruit wraps around the tannins in the back of the palate. Owner Jean-Paul Daumen thinks this vintage is ―too accessible‖ yet a few years in the cellar would do wonders with peak maturity arriv-ing in 14-18 years. 96 points—Chuck Hayward


Not made in every vintage, only about 125 cases were produced from a plot of century-old grenache vines planted on sandy soils. This darkly colored wine has compact and rather closed aromas with smoky overtones mingling with blueberry jam. The palate reveals gobs of richly textured, pure fruit that coats the tongue. Almost confectionary and viscous, the blueberry jam flavors are borderline ripe yet never giving the sense that it is over-the-top. With so much flavor now, it is hard to resist, yet 5-10 years will bring provide some softness, toning down the juicy, primary fruit. 95 points—Chuck Hayward

An old vine amid spring flowers

at Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

29

ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine la Barroche, owned by the Barrot family, is located

behind an unassuming gate on the fringe of ―downtown‖ Cha-

teauneuf du Pape. Entering the small courtyard used for park-

ing, the first impression is of a contemporary home with bed-

rooms on the top floor and a small office next to the garage.

However, behind the doors is a small stairwell which descends

backwards in time to an old cellar beneath the small crushing

area where the equipment and tools are organized.

At Barroche, you quickly get an introduction to two major shifts

in the fabric of the region. The first is the transfer of winemaking

responsibilities from one generation to another. It's something

rarely witnessed in a young market like California and never

among larger, corporate wineries. Yet in Chateauneuf, we often

met two generations working together, though the veteran was

often in the back doing other things, with the apprentice up front

enthusiastically explaining the wines of the property to us.

Upon entering the winery, we met Christian Barrot, a charming

and affable gentleman with a twinkle in his eye, quick to offer a

smile or a laugh. As we talked, it was clear that he preferred to

spend more time in the vineyard and muck around with his tools

and tractor and leave the winemaking to his passionate and en-

ergetic son. Julien shares the family penchant for congeniality

while harboring an exuberance for wine that was quickly evident

as he jumped from the top of one old foudre to another with his

plastic siphoning tube in hand.

The estate's wines were originally sold to negociants with a small

amount of wine kept for the family and friends. When Julien

finished his winemaking studies at Montpellier, he created the

Domaine la Barroche label in 2003 (the wine was originally

called ―Lou Destre d'Antan‖). With much of the family's hold-

ings dedicated to old-vine grenache, the winery now makes four

different cuvées.

Domaine la Barroche

Cellar entrance at Domaine la Barroche

Julien (l) and Laetitia Barrot of Domaine la Barroche

30

ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine la Barroche

The most prized holdings are the old-vine grenache plots with

the best grapes coming from a plot of century-old vines in the

sandy soils of the Grand Pierre lieu-dit nearby Rayas' vines. Oth-

er 100+ year grenache vines are from the lieu-dits of Palestor and

Terre Blanches, whose soils have more galets, giving the resulting

wines more structured nuances on the palate. In addition to

those vineyards, Julien is very excited about the 65-year old

cinsault vines grown at an obscure location in the southwest

corner of the appellation.

Barroche also bears witness to another development in Cha-

teauneuf du Pape: wineries of the region are literally bubbling

with excitement as younger winemakers alter the discussion

among themselves. Rather than let the appellation speak first,

these vignerons are recognizing and raising the profile of the

grenache grape. The Decourvertes de la Rhone tastings during

one day led to late-night parties where grenache was the central

theme to the festivities. In addition to some great party invita-

tions, Julien has done his bit at the winery by creating several

smashing grenache-centric cuvées. The best wine, labeled ―Pure‖

from that 100-year-old grenache vineyard near Rayas' plot, has

garnered incredible critical acclaim and shows the intense purity

of fruit and round textures that are imparted by sandy soils. We

can look forward to more expressions like these from him in the

future.

2008 Chateauneuf du Pape “Signature”

66% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 13% syrah and 6% cinsault. The basic cuvée is destemmed and aged in a combination of used barriques and larger demi-muids. Darkly colored through to the rim, medium-weighted aromas of fresh plums and prunes along with dusty bittersweet chocolate and caraway seed constantly change and evolve. The palate offers up rich albeit elegant and focused textures that are framed in by some subtle acidity. Showing great personality, the flavors of bright bing cherries and blueberries are almost Burgundian in style and texture and con-tribute to a persistent, lingering finish. This is a top 2008 release! Drink over the next ten years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2006 Chateauneuf du Pape “Fiancée”

50% grenache aged in steel and 50% syrah aged in barriques. The high-toned aromas of sour cherry mixed with bittersweet choco-late are moderately intense and ever changing in the glass. That complexity in the bouquet follows through on the palate where the juicy grenache component marries nicely with the structured minerality provided by the syrah. The evolving textures lead into smoky fruit on the lengthy finish which is buttressed by sweet, gravelly tannins. A very complex wine that has the fruit and structure to go 10-12 years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

John Sweeney peering out of the cellar at Barroche Chuck Hayward checking his balance

31

ESTATE PROFILES

As stated earlier, Robert Parker has done much to promote the

wines of Chateauneuf du Pape. If pressed to choose which prop-

erty saw the greatest rise to prominence as a result, it must be

this one. For as Parker started beating the drum, his discovery of

Vieux Telegraphe set in motion a long trajectory of mutual suc-

cess.

Founded at the turn of the century, the Brunier family has

sourced fruit exclusively from the now famous lieu-dit of Le

Crau, part of the reason for the renown of this parcel. Le Crau

benefits from being a warmer site where exposed vines on a plat-

eau mixed with sandy soils and gallets are among the first in the

appellation to be picked.

Success has not prompted the need for marked changes at VT,

and winemaking here is quite traditional in spotlessly clean cel-

lars with rows of gleaming wood tanks and foudres. The style is

consistent with a core (about 2/3 of the cuvée) of grenache-based

soft fruits and firm, structural components given to the blend

(about a third) by the mourvedre and syrah. The impact of vin-

tage variation becomes easy to notice given the consistent sourc-

ing of fruit from one spot. Unlike many wineries in Chateauneuf,

Vieux Telegraphe has not embraced the charge into special bot-

tling, preferring to have their classic cuvée represent the best

from the estate.

Today, the winery is surrounded by scaffolding and cranes with

barrels stacked atop barriques and crammed into a hall full of

foudres. Cellars are being expanded as are the reception area and

offices. Recognizing the need to showcase the benefits of bottle

aging, plans are being developed to create a library of 7000 cases

for each vintage for release later when the wine is mature. And

in addition to their publicized purchase of Domaine les Pallieres

in Gigondas with import partner Kermit Lynch, they have also

purchased Domaine de la Roquete, a property located just out-

side the town of Chateauneuf du Pape. The future is indeed

looking bright for this popular estate.

Domaine Vieux Telegraphe

Claire Latcher of Vieux Telegraphe

with Shaun Bishop (c) & John Sweeney (r) of JJ Buckley

Old and new together, 2010 & 1998

32

ESTATE PROFILES

Domaine Vieux Telegraphe

2010 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Blanc

From a barrel sample. 40% clairette, 30% grenache blanc, 15% bourboulenc, 15% roussanne. This wine is a modern styled white Rhone wine with bright, crisp fruit aromas of citrus and white melon that are clean and precise. The crisp fruit flavors are com-pact and linear at this point in the wine's development, as some integrated acidity provides great length to the finish. 91-92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “Telegramme”

100% grenache, this is the second wine of the property. (Named ‗Vieux des Mas Papes‘ until 2003.) This cuvée is based upon vines about 20-25 years old. Bright and clear, there is just the barest opaque color at the core. Reserved on the nose and palate, the flavor profile is tight and focused and currently not showing any generosity. The finish consists of firm structure with some youthful tannins. Wait a few years on this and drink over the next 8-10 years. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe

65% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 15% syrah, and 5% cinsault. This vintage is currently showing more firm, structural qualities as the juiciness that comes from the grenache component seem sub-sumed by the other varietals in the cuvée. The palate is reserved and not showing the classic rich midpalate textures at this point. The finish is compact and marked with rich tannins. A few years are needed to see where this is going. 89 points—Chuck Hay-ward


An unqualified success from a difficult vintage. The bouquet offers up forward and perfumed fruit aromas that lead up to-wards an exciting palate of pure and elegant fruit. Approachable right now, the grenache-based flavors of black cherry and kirsch are subtly sweet and pretty, followed up with a soft finish sup-ported by discreet tannins. This is a wine that will drink well over the next 6-8 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward


65% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 15% syrah and 5% other varie-tals. Clear and bright garnet colors are vibrant and translucent at the core. This bouquet may not be overt and open as many other 2009s but still retains its concentrated nature. The palate, howev-er, explodes with flavor and texture. Notes of chocolate and kirsch, along with other dark fruits, are round, rich and almost Australian in style. The fruit carries on to a lengthy finish with velvety, soft tannins to support the rich flavors. Great to drink now, this will peak in 15-18 years if you can keep your hands away. 95 points—Chuck Hayward


From a barrel sample, unknown cépage . Darkly colored through to the rim, the powerful aromas of dark fruit are bright and vi-brant. This precision carries through to the palate where the blackberry and black cherry flavors are vibrant and focused. Complex and concentrated, there is an abundance of fruit here that will offer great texture 2-3 years down the road and should last 20 years easily. An exciting glimpse into the future here! 96-98 points—Chuck Hayward

The lineup at Vieux Telegraphe

33

2009 TASTING NOTES

BASTIDE SAINT DOMINIQUE


80% grenache from four different lieu-dits. This darkly colored Chateauneuf has attractive, forward aromas of sweet cherry-kirsch flavors typical of the grenache grape. Almost full-bodied in weight, the purity of the fruit leaps out with round textures and enough concentration to carry through to where soft, subtle tannins contribute to a spicy finish. Very accessible now and best around 2020. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Secrets de Pignan”

100% grenache from vines planted in 1920 in a section of the Pignan lieu-dit where red clay soils include a smattering of rocks. Where many grenache-based cuvées from Pignan offer generous fruit textures, this blend is a touch more reserved and not as op-ulent as the classic blend. The rock-infused soils serve to rein in the fruit concentration and add a mineral dimension to the wine. Nevertheless, the mid-palate is supple with flavors of kirsch and plump raisins. Though drinkable now, a few years won't hurt and this will peak between 2019-2023. 92 points—Chuck Hay-ward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Hesperides”

50% grenache and 20% syrah fermented in tank, 30% mourvedre fermented in year old barrique. This is the second release of this 250 case cuvée sourced from the Pignan and Les Bedines lieu-dits. A completely stunning wine, it starts with beautiful, complex aromas of meat, soy sauce and animale, supported by a mélange of constantly-evolving spice and fruit. The palate is seamless and integrated with cherry and berry compote flavors that seemingly never end. Not overripe, there is some sweetness to the core of fruit and great length towards a finish that lingers forever with the barest hint of tannin. This exciting wine has got it all in per-fect proportion. Just drink it all today and don't wait another 10 years. 98 points—Chuck Hayward

BOSQUET DES PAPES

The boisterous and outgoing Nicolas Boiron, who could easily pass for a rugby player, runs this estate representing the family's fifth generation of winemakers at the estate . The winery is locat-ed just outside of town heading north on the D68 road but they own numerous vineyards throughout the appellation. Leaning towards a more traditional style of wine, the wines for most of the cuvées are aged in older foudres but some smaller vessels are being added to the cellar for the recent additions to the portfolio.


75% grenache, 10% syrah, 12% mourvedre, 3% assorted grapes. This cuvée is classically styled with aromas and flavors reminis-cent of pinot noir. Fragrant aromas of dark spice, cherry, cassis liqueur and loamy earth belie a slightly richer and balanced pal-ate with subtle kirsch flavor. The finish is smoothly textured with just enough acidity to keep things light and a bit of tannin to wrap it all up. An elegant, fruit-focused wine and a great ex-ample of this style. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “A La Glorie de Mon Grand Pere”

100% grenache aged in foudres and demi-muids from sites with sandy soil. Darkly colored at the core, the rim fades to a pale pink. This cuvée is more structured when compared to the clas-sic cuvée. Medium bodied in weight, there is just enough fruit to counterbalance the spicy and textured tannins that contribute to a firm finish. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes”

80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Grapes were not destemmed. An attractive bouquet is initially closed but, with aeration, dark fruits intermingle with hints of grilled meat. The tannins are very fine and the long finish is supple and soft. Mod-erately intense and concentrated dark fruits will unfurl with time. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

34

2009 TASTING NOTES

CHANTE CIGALE


80% of the cuvée rests in foudres with a portion aged in smaller barrels. Forward and complex aromas of earth and pepper spice mingle with liqueur-like fraise sauvage fruits. This attractive bouquet leads into fairly full bodied wine with just enough con-centration of dark fruit on the backend of the palate where a firm, fresh finish awaits. Packed with flavor, a little time is neces-sary, after which the wine will show brightly. Drink from 2018-2025. 92 points—Chuck Hayward


Comprised of grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Opaque in color with a slightly paler rim than the winery's classic cuvée. The nose on this blend is quite closed and reserved, but the medium weighted dark fruit at the center of the palate feathers towards a smooth finish. The barest hint of spicy tannin is enlivened by just the right amount of acids. With the compact components nicely integrated, it just needs a bit of time to open up and reveal itself. Give it a few years, plan on peak drinking in 10-12. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

CHATEAU BEAUCASTEL

Tasting notes for the 2009 releases can be found on pages 18-19.

CHATEAU DE LA GARDINE

If anything, Chateau de la Gardine is probably best known for its unique bottle shape. The slightly oval/triangular vessel is quite unique and calls to mind an older, more traditional—maybe even conservative—estate. The bottle, unfortunately, gives a misleading impression as to what the winery is all about. The winery is actively pushing the envelope with new styles and cuvées.

Philippe and Marie-Odie Brunel represent the third generation to work at the estate, which was purchased by the family in 1945. They own a fairly significant amount of property concentrated in three lieu-dits just west of the village, some plots planted in 1925.


65% grenache, 20% syrah, 15% mourvedre. This sees a combina-tion of tanks and old barrels. Hints of spice support an attractive core of pure, kirsch-influenced fruit. Medium to medium-full bodied, the purity on the bouquet forms the backbone of the palate, where firm tannins provide a structured finish. A touch of bittersweet chocolate and fresh earth adds some complexity on the backpalate. This will provide sumptuous drinking over the next 12 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée des Generations”

40% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% mourvedre. Aged in 100% new barriques. Dark in color with a youthfully purple rim. The new oak dominates the initial impressions as vibrant oak scents are easily apparent. The high-toned aromas follow through on the palate with tangy acids and firm tannins acting to constrict the wine's shape towards a tight profile. Give this a few years to allow the fruit to fill out the backpalate. 91 points—Chuck Hay-ward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “L'Immortale”

33% grenache, 33% syrah, 33% mourvedre. Traditionally aged in large foudres, this is a powerful cuvée with exotic aromas of game, bacon and soy. A mélange of flavors dominate the palate and complexity makes this wine immediately attractive. Howev-er, some richness and concentration on the lingering finish would make this wine even better, as the flavors fall rather quickly into fine tannins. Giving this wine a few years could link the midpalate and finish, and this will drink well for up to 15 years. An excellent wine. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

35

2009 TASTING NOTES

CHATEAU FORTIA

The tasting notes for the 2009 releases can be found on page 21.

CHATEAU GRAND TINEL

Located on the eastern outskirts of the town, Grand Tinel main-tains one of the larger landholdings in the appellation. With a family history that can be traced back to the 16th century, the estate began operations in 1972. Local superstar Philippe Cambie has served as their consulting enologist for the past decade. The Jeune family also owns the Chateauneuf estate Domaine Saint Paul.


80% grenache, 15% syrah, 5% mourvedre. Aged in foudres and demi-muids. Dark color at the core. The cherry aromas are a bit feral and sauvage. Dark fruits dominate the flavor profile, and a trace of richness follows on to the backpalate. The firm, struc-tured finish is supported by the proper amount of acids and dry, slightly bitter tannins that will require short term aging to re-solve. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Alexis Estaslot”

100% grenache. A juicy expression of grenache where the influ-ence of site speaks clearly. Powerful, clean cassis flavors—supported by spicy structure and tannins—showcase the influ-ence of the rocky soils of the Gargiolas lieu-dit, where the grapes are grown. This unique terroir also creates a compact fruit profile which is taut and focused due to fine acidity. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

CLOS DE L’ ORATOIRE DES PAPES

This estate is owned by the negociant firm Vignobles Jeanjean/Ogier. It was founded in the late 1800s and owns three different plots in different sectors of the appellation. The grenache is aged in larger foudres with smaller demi-muids used for syrah and mourvedre.


80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. The very rich nose is mainly red fruit driven, dominated by notes of red cherry. Plen-ty of acidity makes this wine very balanced and yet chewy on the palate. Medium in body and classic in structure and character. 91 points—John Sweeney

CLOS DU MONT OLIVET

This is another property run by a branch of the Sabon family. The grapes here are partially destemmed and aged in foudres.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “le Petit Mont“

95% grenache, 5% syrah. This is a very elegant yet enjoyable Chateauneuf. Pretty and floral, this is definitely red fruit driven with an intensely juicy flavor profile. The bright, vibrant acidity that this wine exudes will make it a great food wine and pleasant early drinker. 91 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Classic”

80% grenache, 20% syrah, mourvedre, cinsault, counoise, and vaccarese. This wine has loads of character and is very tradition-al Chateauneuf with bright red fruit and ample spice. On the palate this has great mouthfeel with well-integrated tannins and a long, pleasant finish. 92 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “La Cuvée du Papet”

75% grenache, 15% mourvedre, 10% syrah. By far the most intri-guing of the three cuvées produced by Clos du Mont Olivet. Deep ruby in color and supremely complex on the nose. The wine is very pure and concentrated with notes of black cherry, raspberry and strawberry, as well as a pretty floral component. A long finish and well-integrated tannins make this wine a real winner. 93 points—John Sweeney

36

2009 TASTING NOTES

CLOS SAINT JEAN

This winery‘s history goes back to 1900, when the estate was founded by Edmund Tacussel. It followed a traditional pattern of making small amounts of wine under their label and, at the same time, selling wine to negociants. It was not until brothers Pascal and Vincent Mauret inherited the property and hired local consultant Philippe Cambie that Clos Saint Jean started its ascent to the top echelon of wineries in Chateauneuf.

The first changes occurred in the cellar as traditional winemak-ing techniques were abandoned: smaller wood vessels are now used instead of foudres, grapes are now destemmed before fer-mentation. New cellars have also helped to give the family more space to handle the small-lot production and aging now pre-ferred by Cambie and the Maurets. Three new reserve cuvées have been added to the portfolio which rapidly achieved critical acclaim. A rather large estate, most of the winery‘s needs are sourced from plots around Le Crau and include the largest hold-ings of vaccarese in the region.


75% grenache, 15% syrah, with the remainder composed of mourvedre, cinsault, vaccarese and muscardin. The syrah is aged in 1-year-old barriques while the grenache sees concrete. Darkly colored, the fairly closed bouquet reveals scents of green herbs and spice. There are gobs of richly textured fruit here that are concentrated and beautifully flavored. The bouquet and palate have achieved a perfect sense of ripeness without going over the top, and minerality forms the foundation of the finish, which has an innate sweetness and compelling, round textures. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Combe des Fours”

60% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault and 10% vaccarese. Based upon fruit sourced from the Le Crau lieu-dit which includes a 106-year-old plot of grenache. This cuvée‘s savory qualities are the primary focus of the bouquet at this point, backed by notes of fresh earth, dried meat and dusty herbs. The flavors here lack a bit of precision with warm fruit textures that are ripe and almost viscous on the backpalate. The tannins are fine with notes of dark spice peppering the finish. Should be best in 10-12 years. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Deus Ex Machina”

60% grenache, 40% mourvedre. The grenache comes from Le Crau with the mourvedre sourced from the Bois Dauphin lieu-dit— not far from Beaucastel‘s vineyards. This cuvée is only made in excellent vintages and clearly shows that 2009 meets that standard. Deeply colored and basically opaque, the fruit aromas are precise and focused. The palate is subtle at first but the excitement level ratchets up as the palate showcases more complexity and layers. Not restrained or compact in profile, it is the precision of flavors and the exquisite length that sets this wine apart. Incredibly exciting now and will remain so for 15-20 years. 98 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Sanctus Sanctorum”

100% grenache sourced from Le Crau. Reserved and closed on the nose at this point. The classically rich and mouthfilling tex-tures can be found in abundance here, as the telltale sweet, ripe fruit flavors are complemented with minerals and structural ele-ments that dispense granular-like textures throughout. Powerful and concentrated, firm tannins complete the experience and add some grip to the finish. Give this a while in the decanter or a few years in the bottle to allow the fruit to blossom, knowing that this will provide sensational drinking in 15 years. 97 points—Chuck Hayward

37

2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE CRISTIA

The third generation of the Grangeon family is now in control of this winery. Founded in 1942, the wines were sold in bulk to negociants until the grandchildren decided to bottle the grape production for themselves. The winery makes three different red blends fashioned from their certified organic vineyards spread across four lieu-dits in the eastern portion of the appellation, with the reserve-level cuvées only produced in exceptional vintages.


90% grenache, 10% syrah from 20-60 year old vines grown in sandy soils. Fermented in concrete with no oak. This is a ripe, modern styled cuvée that is darkly colored where the powerful, concentrated grenache flavors come through. With a great deal of richness, the texture is almost liqueur-like and the tannins are ultra fine. Approachable now, this will only get better and more open over the next few years and will easily last fifteen more. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Renaissance”

60% grenache, 40% mourvedre, with the grenache aged in old foudres and the mourvedre aged in new oak. Although a touch lighter in color than the classic cuvée, the bouquet takes on an-other dimension. Scents of granite and tobacco are layered with concentrated aromas of dark cherry liqueur. There is a touch more finesse on the palate and nicely integrated acidity helps to frame a lingering, fruit-filled finish with the barest of tannins. This tension will be released after a few years in the bottle, and it should provide great drinking over the next 15 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward


100% grenache destemmed and aged in barrels. The most darkly colored of the three cuvées, this release is closed and more back-ward aromatically. The flavors are subtle on the attack with con-centrated richness appearing on the backpalate. The overall im-pression of the wine is one of restraint, as a compact framework and more pronounced tannins will require some time for the wine to gain weight and harmony. Best from 2014 to 2026. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIERE

The tasting notes for the 2009s can be found on pages 22-24.

DOMAINE DE LA JANASSE

This large property makes a full range of Rhone wines with Cotes du Rhones and Vins de Pays cuvées of all colors produced alongside the Chateauneufs. The grenache is matured in foudres to preserve the inherent fruit qualities while the syrah and mourvedre components are aged in barrels to temper their tan-nic nature. The winery is a family affair, and Jean-Luc Colombo serves as a consultant. All the cuvées in 2009 had 20% whole-bunch clusters in the fermentation.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Tradition”

80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Darkly colored. The beautiful aromatics are dominated by spice, grilled meat and fresh fruit. Not juicy or fruity in style, though, as structure is the name of the game in this release. Spice and tannin combine to provide a firm finish, one that fades a bit too quickly. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Chaupin”

This is a 100% grenache cuvée from the Chapouin lieu-dit in the northwest sector of the appellation. Lighter in color than the clas-sic blend, yet there is more perfume and intriguing aromatics, while still retaining a sense of elegance. The palate possesses a ripe core of fruit which is fresh and narrowly focused while maintaining a sense of tension. While the substantial tannins here contribute to a firm finish, they are finely grained and matched by integrated acids to provide a long finish. Needs a little time, so drink over the next 3-15 years. 93 points—Chuck Hayward


85% grenache, 10% mourvedre, and 5% syrah. Restrained and backward, the nose exhibits a hint of tobacco and ash but, over-all, this is not a showy wine. The closed aromas are reflected in a compact flavor profile that is restrained and undeveloped. This cuvée needs time to reveal itself. As of now, it is hard to see where this might be going. Wait 4-5 years. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

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2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE DE LA MORDOREE

In 1986, brothers Christophe and Fabrice Delorme checked out of their jobs and embarked on a path create a multi-regional wine estate. Today, they own about 60 acres located in eight different appellations across the southern Rhone. Their first vineyards were located in Chateauneuf du Pape where they now own plots in four different lieu-dits including one in Le Crau. Made in a modern style, the basic cuvée was first produced in 1994 and it is supplemented by a new reserve wine, ―La Plume du Peintre‖, which comes from a 100-year-old plot of grenache grown on clay soils from Le Crau. It has only been made in 2003 and 2005.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Reine des Bois”

80% grenache, 10% mourvedre, 5% vaccarasse. The bunches are destemmed for this cuvée. Very dark in color. This is a full bod-ied wine with concentrated fruit and oak components. The ripe and juicy textured fruits on the midpalate are on the verge of overripe but firm tannins provide structure and help keep things in check. A big, firm wine and a powerful, deeply concentrated example of what the appellation can produce. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE

The tasting notes for the 2009s can be found on pages 25-26.

DOMAINE DE MARCOUX


80% grenache, 10% mourvedre, 10% syrah & cinsault. This is a beautiful example of elegant and traditional Chateauneuf. An intoxicating nose of white flower, peach, raspberry and kirsch liqueur leads to a medium bodied palate medium with bright, pure fruit flavors and spicy notes of pepper. This is an excellent, well-made wine and one of the more exciting of the vintage. 94 points—John Sweeney


100% grenache. A big, concentrated wine with tons of character and spice. This wine has a ripe, opulent nose that is very com-plex. On the palate rich and black and blue fruit dominate the flavor profile, ending with a long, spicy finish. This has great length and looks to have a great deal of potential. 95 points—John Sweeney

DOMAINE DU CLOS DU CAILLOU

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “les Safres”

100% grenache. A unique nose of cherry, apple cider, baking spice, and chalky minerality. The palate is driven by purple fruit, pepper and garrigue. This is relatively full bodied and round on the palate, and the wine finishes with big, grippy tan-nins. 89 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “les Quartz”

85% grenache, 15% syrah. A rich, modern styled Chateauneuf. There is a good dose of new oak present on the nose as well as plenty of black fruits and chewy tannins in the mouth. I was pleasantly surprised by how balanced this voluptuous wine was. The last thing I wrote in my notes was ‗WOW!‘ 94 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve le Clos du Caillou”

60% grenache from the Pignan lieu-dit, 40% mourvedre. The nose is dark and rich, very spicy and smoky. Chewy and delicious, this is definitely a hedonistic wine made in a more modern style. What stood out to me most about this was the length on the pal-ate. Very integrated at its young age, the tannins are resolved and silky in the mouth. 94 points—John Sweeney

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2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE GIRAUD

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Tradition”

60% grenache, 35% syrah, 5% mourvedre, with the syrah and mourvedre for this cuvée aged in barrels. This pretty wine has a rather ripe and spicy nose. On the palate, it has structured and chewy tannins with a nice balance of fruit and earth components. Though a little lean, overall a nice wine. 90 points—John Sweeney

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée les Gallimardes”

90% grenache, 10% syrah. The grenache was aged in cement while the syrah saw time in barriques. Deep and rich in color. Incredibly spicy and complex on the nose. This wine has a won-derful streak of minerality that adds to the already complex na-ture of this long and complete Chateauneuf du Pape. 95 points—John Sweeney

DOMAINE JULIETTE AVRIL


70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Dark color at the core with a bright magenta rim. The elegantly framed bouquet shows hints of pepper, dark spice and earth. A lighter style, this release is almost pinot-like in texture and nuance with delicate fruit at the core and a subdued finish. However, the presence of bitter and slightly hard tannins at the end throw the wine off kilter. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE LA MILLIERE


60% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% cinsault, 10% mourvedre, 10% counoise. The nose reveals kirsch-influenced fruit; however, the brett here is a bit overwhelming on the bouquet. Dark fruit and black cherry appear on the medium-weighted palate but tough tannins serve to dry out the finish, where brett also dominates with notes of barnyard and old saddle leather. Cellaring for five years may bring out some fruit but it's a chance. 86 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE MONT REDON

The Plantin family owns this historic property that is one of the largest in the region. Since they purchased the winery in 1923, the estate has expanded plantings from 2 to 100 hectares, scat-tered across six lieu-dits in the western region of Chateauneuf. Mont Redon only makes one red wine, a more elegantly styled grenache-based cuvée. Interestingly, they are the largest produc-er of white Chateauneuf du Pape.


Light color with the barest hint of darkness at the core. Higher toned aromas of kirsch are delicate and subtle, and the fruit is too, almost pinot like in weight and texture. Perhaps a touch simple and diluted for some, the flavors are clean and soft with a smattering of tannins. A classic, old-school rendition of what Chateauneuf can be. Drinkable now, this will last 5-8 years. 90 points—Chuck Hayward

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2009 TASTING NOTES

DOMAINE PEGAU

This estate, which is run by the energetic Laurence Feraud and her father Paul, occupies a special place in the coterie of Cha-teauneuf du Pape. For being such an omnipresent winery in America, few people realize that the first wines were not re-leased until the mid 1980s. Pegau's vineyards are scattered throughout the central and eastern sectors of the appellation with prized holdings in the lieu-dits of Le Crau and Pignan, and these vines supply the winery's three different cuvées.

The ―Cuvée Reservee‖, which is aged in old foudres, and the ―Cuvée Laurence‖, which is only made in certain vintages, both hew to a traditional style with no destemming of fruit here. The critically acclaimed ―Cuvée de Capo‖ has been made just four times in the last ten years and is a selection of the best wines in the cellar. Together with the one-off ―Cuvée Inspiration,‖ these two wines are distinctly modern interpretations of what can be made with their fruit.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Reservee”

Darkly colored with a garnet rim. This vintage showcases Pegau's identifiable bouquet of sour cherries and horse saddle. With medium weight, the palate displays the classic grenache flavors of wild, sauvage cherries, while refreshingly tangy acidi-ty combines with other spicy flavors and tannins to create an intriguing finish. Very traditional. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE SAINT PAUL

The Jeune family, owners of Chateau Grand Tinel, operate this estate and opt for making a fresh, elegant style of wine. A 1981 bottle made at Grand Tinel and consumed on this trip at the his-toric Le Verger des Papes for lunch was drinking perfectly.


70% grenache, 30% syrah. The deeply aromatic bouquet possess-es concentrated aromas of crunchy Bing cherries. Fairly robust, the wine is just beginning to shed its primary fruit to reveal com-plexity on the palate. Spicy tannins intermingle with acidity to provide some lift to the wine and create an elegant, crisp finish. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Jumille”

60% grenache, 40% syrah. This fresh, fruit-centered old vine cu-vée offers up bright cherry aromas that merge with hints of spice. The palate shows more concentration of fruit than the nose indicated, along with richness on the backpalate, and the finish is crisp and zippy thanks to some sprightly acids. While this could support a bit more density, it is perfect for fans of bright Cha-teauneuf du Pape. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

DOMAINE VIEILLE JULIENNE


DOMAINE VIEUX TELEGRAPHE


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2009 TASTING NOTES

JEAN DEYDIER/CLEF'S D'OR


A selection of grapes from 6 to 7 lieu-dits. Darkly colored with a thin rim of garnet. A more traditionally styled Chateauneuf, moderately intense aromas of brett and horse saddle dominate the fresh kirsch notes underneath. The core of fruit is soft, under-stated and reminiscent of raspberry liqueur, followed by noticea-ble tannins that contribute to a dry finish. Will hold for ten years. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Selection”

A blend comprised from old vines grown in Le Crau and Pied Long and the second release of this cuvée. The reticent bouquet opens to reveal clean and pure aromas of soft fruits mingling with hints of earth. Medium bodied, there is a core of dark fruit on the palate that continues on to form the foundation of the wine's finish. However, the flavors are cut short somewhat quickly when firm tannins kick in. Some short term cellaring will help if you prefer a fresher style, though 15 years will see this wine in perfect maturity. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Cuvées Centenaires”

100% grenache grown in the lieu-dit of Le Crau. Backward, re-served fruit aromas are just starting to show complexity, as stones and minerals reveal themselves with air. They repeat on the palate, which is focused and compact with a great purity of concentrated fruit at the core which has yet to unfurl, due to fine-ly structured tannins. The most intense cuvée produced by the winery, this is quite young and should not be approached for a few years unless given a good decant. The fruit intensity bodes well for great drinking until 2025. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

OLIVIER HILLAIRE

Olivier Hillaire served as the winemaker for Domaine des Re-langes for a number of years until 2006 when the owner decided to retire and sell his vineyards. Hillaire managed to secure two key plots in order to start his own label. In addition to a section of vines located in the Grand Pierre lieu dit, Olivier obtained a choice parcel of century-old grenache vines which make up the special, limited production ―Cuvée Les Petits Pieds d'Armand‖. His tasting room is in the center of town opposite La Mule du Pape, one of the older dining establishments in town.


90% grenache, 10% syrah. Aged in barriques, no foudres. Dark at the core. The seductive bouquet offers attractive aromas of grilled meat, fresh earth and sweet soy sauce. Fruit focused on the palate, medium-full-bodied flavors of kirsch lead into fine, spicy tannins to provide a lip-smacking finish. Aging will make this even better. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Petits Pieds d'Armand”

100% grenache. Aged in 400 liter barriques from fruit grown in the southern portion of the Le Crau lieu-dit. This classic, rich gre-nache shows explosive fruit on the palate—ripe but not over the top— thanks to acids adding freshness and elegance to this thickly textured cuvée. Juicy and round, concentrated fruit on the backpalate makes way for a long, lingering finish marked by very fine tannins. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

42

2009 TASTING NOTES

PAUL AUTARD

Jean-Paul Autard has worked at the family winery since he was 17, working their vineyards located in the eastern portion of Chateauneuf du Pape. Founded in 1924, all his wines are grena-che-based blends with a preference for aging his cuvées in oak barrels instead of foudres.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée le Cote Ronde”

50% grenache, 50% syrah. Darkly colored. Currently closed and not showing a lot of forward character, though the subtle per-fume of dusty cherry slowly reveals itself with aeration. Medium-bodied, the palate is firm and structured with black cherry fla-vors dominating a crisply textured finish. Give this 3 years to open up and drink for another 15. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvée Juline”

50% grenache, 50% syrah. This cuvée is aged 100% new French oak. Another deeply colored cuvée. The nose features aromas of pronounced oak, including hints of green peppercorn and spice, which are mirrored on the palate. Noticeable acidity frames a compact finish, marked by tannins. This bottling seems quite young and undeveloped, though some time should allow the fruit to shine through. Wait 2-4 years for things to settle. 91 points—Chuck Hayward

PIERRE HENRI MOREL

Pierre Henri Morel has had a long career working alongside Michel Chapoutier, though the 2009s represent only the second offering of wines under his own moniker. His Chateauneufs are part of a larger portfolio of wines from the Rhone and are wor-thy followups to his inaugural release, as his style reflects what he has learned at Chapoutier. These are wines with a sense of elegance and poise.


90% grenache, 10% syrah and mourvedre. This is a bit closed aromatically but pure, delicate aromas of high-toned cherry fruit appear with a little air. The stylistic approach here is subtlety over power and extract, yet this is not shy or reserved. Rather, the clean fruit flavors are rich enough to provide an enticing and supple finish with herb-laced tannins. Drinkable now, this wine could be quite a surprise in ten years. 91 points—Chuck Hay-ward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Pignan”

100% grenache from the Pignan lieu-dit. Only 200 cases of this cuvée were made, fermented in concrete and aged in larger demi-muids. Opaque color. Although the bouquet is subtle and re-strained, the fruit aromas are pure and balanced with great acidi-ty providing lift and finesse on the finish. Pure and focused, this is a very pretty wine showing just a hint of sweetness to the fruit but no concentration or viscosity. With its polish, it is obvious this has been made with a deft hand. Although quite approacha-ble now, this could benefit from a few years to let the wine open up and will peak by the end of the decade. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

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2009 TASTING NOTES

RAYMOND USSEGLIO

This domaine released its first wines in 1964 and has gradually added vineyards to the original plot located in the rocky Terres Blaches lieu-dit just north of the town. As with many other prop-erties, the estate was revitalized when Stephane, Raymond's son, assumed winemaking responsibilities in 2004. He has recently added new cuvées to the portfolio, including a 100% roussanne cuvée and a mourvedre-dominant blend aged in new barriques. It is important to note that the US importer offers slightly altered blends bearing different names into the market.


80% grenache, 10% syrah, 10% mourvedre. Deeply concentrated, almost backward aromas of dark fruit and a touch of spearmint dominate the bouquet. Medium bodied, this offers richness and concentrated fruit on the backpalate. Dark and brooding, tex-tured tannins complete the experience, along with a sense of freshness thanks to the presence of some lively acidity. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “VieillesVignes”

A touch lighter in color than the classic cuvée. This is also a more delicate and fruit-centered blend in comparison. The bouquet offers up bright, fresh aromas of cherry and this freshness carries through to the palate, thanks to the crisp acidity. Very fine tan-nins support a restrained, lingering finish of moderate length. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Le Parte des Anges”

70% Mourvedre, 20% grenache, 10% syrah. From a single site, this mourvedre-dominated cuvée is aged in 100% new barriques. Beautiful aromas of vanilla-laced oak appear on the bouquet and are mirrored on the palate to support fresh, concentrated fruit flavors. While quite attractive, the fruit is masked, giving the impression of being overoaked. Nevertheless, this is a balanced and elegantly structured wine with good length and slightly firm tannins. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

ROGER PERRIN

This estate was founded in 1969 by Roger Perrin, not related to the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel fame. He passed away in 1986 and his son Luc took over winemaking responsibilities and set about upgrading the cellar with new equipment. Sadly, Luc passed away in August of 2010 and the future of the estate is uncertain.


72% grenache, 20% syrah, 5% mourvedre, 3% other varieties. Subtle aromas of kirsch and spice are pleasant and ethereal. This is a more elegant style of Chateauneuf with medium-weighted, fruit-forward textures with just a hint of dark fruits. A bit more complexity and intrigue would elevate this wine. 89 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve de Vieilles Vignes”

Made only in exceptional vintages with a portion of the blend coming from century-old grenache. With beguiling aromas of sweet earth, beef bouillon and spicy marinade, this cuvée shows slightly more intensity and much more complexity than the reg-ular bottling. Medium-light in weight, the fruit here is more sub-tle and fades quickly to a tannic finish that creates a wine that is slightly out of whack. 88 points—Chuck Hayward

44

2009 TASTING NOTES

ROGER SABON

This winery has a long and intricate history that starts in the beginning of the 20th century when Seraphin Sabon got married and started to manage his wife‘s property. As some producers began to bottle their own wines to prevent fraud, the family made this a regular practice in 1921. The family tradition of inno-vation was passed on to the grandchildren who began the prac-tice of producing reserve bottlings in 1981.

The winery currently makes four different cuvées based on fruit sourced from more than a dozen different plots including some choice vineyards in Le Crau. The winemaking procedures for each cuvée are similar—all bunches are destemmed and grena-che dominates each blend with remainder being a combination of syrah and cinsault. The wines are aged primarily in foudres while small percentages are kept in demi-muids or barrels to add body and structure.

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Olivets”

A blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault, aged in foudres and large cuves. This darkly colored wine shows a muddled rim. On the nose, savory aromas of earth and subtle spices intermingle with dark fruits. A wine of medium weight, the palate reflects this more textured style by avoiding juicy, fruity qualities and emphasizing earthy, mineral aspects. Feathery and soft dark fruit flavors linger on the finish, accompanied by talc-like tannins. Peak maturity between 2021-25. 91 points—Chuck Hayward


A blend of 60-75 year old grenache, syrah and cinsault, aged in foudres and demi-muids. The nose is concentrated aromatically with powerful dark fruits. Not over the top, the palate avoids overripeness and maintains a sense of elegance and tension. This is not to imply the wine is lean, as there is just a hint of sweet, ripe dark fruit and viscosity on this full-bodied release which makes for compelling drinking. The finish ends firmly with sub-tle tannins. Look for the wine to broaden and soften over the next five years with its best drinking from 2018-2022. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Prestige”

A blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault, mourvedre and 10% counoise. Aged in a combination of foudres, barrels and demi-muids. Very dark in color and opaque towards the rim. A shade more weight on this medium-bodied wine, which also finds a hint of brett and dark spice on the nose. This classy wine is full of blackberry and is not as tense as the ―Reserve‖ and the finish is soft with slightly more tannins. Best from 2019-2022. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

45

2009 TASTING NOTES

SAINT PREFERT

Isabel Ferrando is the irrepressible winemaker here and a tasting with her is sure to include smiles and laughs along with a quiet, yet passionate, introduction to her winemaking approach. The portfolio shows a personal style which highlights elegance and finesse instead of the powerhouse style preferred by some prop-erties. 80% of the property at Saint Prefert is comprised of stones and she prefers complete destemming of the fruit and fermenta-tion in concrete.


85% grenache, 15% cinsault, syrah, & mourvedre. Fairly light in color, there is very little density at the core. Delicate and subtle aromas of soft fruit combine with clean scents of dark cherry and vanilla. The feather-light flavors of fruit are pure and pick up more richness of texture and intriguing complexity on the back palate, while the finish is fresh and lingering thanks to refreshing acidity and a small amount of spicy tannin. Drink this over the next ten years, though it is very approachable now if you like a lighter-styled Chateauneuf. 93 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Reserve Auguste Favier”

85% grenache, 15% cinsault. Pale color similar to the classic cu-vée. Subtle scents of strawberry and cherry come across as light and ethereal. Once again, the palate is surprisingly richer and more complex than the bouquet indicates. Balanced and refined, hints of caramel and burnt sugar mingle with cherry that fades softly, bolstered by the finest of tannins. Best to drink before the end of the decade, though it could surprise and go longer. 92 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Colombis”

100% grenache fermented in large casks sourced from sandy soils. Pale magenta in color and barely opaque at core. Mineral and spice mingle with soft fruit on the subtle bouquet, while the emphasis on the palate is one of pure, elegant fruit that is neither weighty nor thickly textured. Along with the cherry core, com-plexity comes in the form of coffee grounds and cocoa powder. The flavors fade towards a delicate finish with fine tannins. Drink for the next ten years. 94 points—Chuck Hayward

2009 Chateauneuf du Pape “Collection Charles Giraud”

60% grenache, 40% mourvedre. Aged in old demi-muids. While the dark fruit aromas are intense, they retain a sense of balance and purity. The flavors also show more concentration and pow-er, they are not as open or approachable and the firm, structured finish is buttressed by harder tannins. Both the bouquet and pal-ate clearly put this cuvée at the top of the portfolio, as this true vin de garde just has a bit more in every dimension. Put this away for a few years; it will last until 2026. 96 points—Chuck Hayward

46

Chuck Hayward (l) & John Sweeney (r) of JJ Buckley

tasting Chateauneuf du Pape

Shaun Bishop peeping out of the cellar at

Domaine la Barroche

The cellar at Domaine de la Solitude

Tank at Chateau Fortia

Welcome!

A barrel that didn’t make the grade

at Charbonniere

47

Cellar at Vieux Telegraphe

John Sweeney checking out the galets roulées

Taking pictures at Beaucastel

One of the top wine bars In Avignon

The daughter of Domaine de la Janasse's Christophe Sabon

hard at work at the Decouvertes Tasting

Foudre #35 at Domaine la Barroche

48

ABOUT THIS REPORT

About this report

The tasting notes published in this re-

port were assembled by Chuck Hayward

and John Sweeney of JJ Buckley's team

of fine wine specialists and are attribut-

ed accordingly. Wines were tasted non-

blind during private appointments at

wineries, as well as industry-organized

tasting events in March 2011.

The essays found here were written by

Chuck Hayward.

Acknowledgments

This report could not have been put to-

gether without the assistance of Paige

Granback and Farley Walker. Both of my

co-workers worked diligently under

stressful deadlines to edit and lay out the

content and tasting notes, and I cannot

offer enough thanks for their efforts.

I would like to thank JJ Buckley founders

Shaun Bishop and Michael Stajer for their

support in taking some of our team to the

to the Rhone, as well as the commitment

of resources necessary to prepare and

complete this report.

I encourage everyone to check out all our

other reports at jjbuckley.com/dl.

—Chuck Hayward

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Wine Report 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape

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