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References Special Issue www.monforts.com world of textiles Europe
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Page 1: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

References Special Issue www.monforts.com

world of textilesEurope

Page 2: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

Our Product Range� Stretching Ranges� Flow Through Dryers� Belt Dryers� High Temperature Stenters� Vertical Dryers� Finishing Ranges� Universal Dryers� TwinTherm Dryers� Thermobonding Ranges� Coating Lines

Competence in Technical Textiles

Suitable for� Glas Fibre Fabrics� Light Protection� Tarpaulins� Billboards� Artificial Leather� Floor Coverings� Artificial Grass� Nonwovens� Spacers� Membranes

AHEAD OF PROGRESS

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KGGermany | A member of CHTC Fong’s Group

www.monforts.com

T

Page 3: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

Retaining alead in EuropeIn this special publication forITMA 2019 in Barcelona, we arecelebrating the achievements ofMonforts customers here in ourEuropean markets.

In attempting to convey theimportance of the Europeantextiles and clothing industry to itsoverall economy, Lutz Walter,director of innovation and skills atEuratex – the European Textileand Apparel Council – notes thatthe list price of a new AirbusA350-900 wide-body jet airliner isaround €275 million.

This means that EU exports oftextiles and clothing outside theblock alone are the annualequivalent of purchasing over 350of these latest Airbus planes, sothere is no need to be modestabout the achievements of ourcustomers.

Euratex puts the overall annualvalue of EU textiles and clothing at€181 billion, without including thecontribution of key countries suchas Switzerland and Turkey. Theindustry has certainly rallied sincethe recession of 2009, when it hit alow of €150 billion, but at the sametime, has become more diversifiedover the years since then.

Of this €181 billion value, 33%is achieved by clothing, 17% byconventional trading in fabrics,15% by home textiles and 17%by industrial and technicaltextiles.

All these market segments areserved by Monforts products,and at ITMA 2019 you’ll findinnovations built on Industry 4.0possibilities and our long historyof accumulated expertise acrossall clusters of the textile chain.

Virtual and remote control ofour plant technologies, includingdigital twinning and completeautomation, are just a few of theconcepts you can find out aboutfor our advanced textile finishingand coating systems, by visitingus at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, inHall 2, at stand D101.

And it’s only the start of whatwe intend to achieve in the nextyears for the continued successof our valued customers inEurope – and globally.

Stefan FlöthManaging Director

Monforts customers featured in this issue:Arta, ATB, Bethge, Boyahanesi, BWF, Hugotag, GTA, Mariani, Riopele, Schoeller, Tapetex, Tinfer, Van Clewe, Vaz da Costa.

A. Monforts TextilmaschinenGmbH & Co. KGPostfach 10 17 01D-41017 MönchengladbachBlumenberger Straße 143-145D-41061 MönchengladbachTelefon: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-0Telefax: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-498Internet: www.monforts.deeMail: [email protected]

PUBLISHED BY MONFORTSMARKETING GROUP

World of Textiles | Europe | 3

Cover : The Monforts “Digital Twin” withSmart Services and Smart Controls forthe highest productivity and availability.

Page 4: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

4 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Monforts technology is providing the full flexibility in coating andfinishing that advanced European textile manufacturers nowneed to successfully negotiate the diverse markets they serve,writes the company’s Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.

IOT Industry 4.0Innovations are here

The instant connectivity and easydistribution of know-how ischanging the face of industrialmanufacturing, making theoperation of complex machinerymuch simpler and cutting downthe required training periods,while at the same time, reducingthe chance of human error.

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona,Monforts will demonstrate a rangeof new advances made possibleby Industry 4.0 techniques,

‘Digital Twinning’ is the latest Industry 4.0 concept from Monforts.

including ‘digital twin’ capabilityfor all of its machine systems.

By exploiting the latestadvanced sensor technology,100% comprehensive technicalmachine data is now virtuallymapped in the cloud in realtime.

This digital mirror can beeasily consulted using the newMonforts Smart Support andSmart Check apps for an instan-taneous status overview.

All specifications relating tomachine performance and theproduction process can bemapped, to enable vastlysimplified and targeted analysisfor controlled planning andproduction. Insights harnessedfrom such analysis can be used to optimise the actualproduction process.

At the same time, potentialsources of error can beanticipated and eliminated,

Page 5: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

systems and Eco Applicator,texCoat and Allround coatingunits.

Coating advancesSince we acquired the coating

technology that our texCoat andAllround systems are based on in2015, Monforts has also made alot of refinements resulting inhigher coating accuracy and theresulting quality of the treatedfabrics, especially for manufac-turers of technical textiles.

Technical textiles are extremelydiverse in their end-useapplications and manufacturerscan be called upon to quicklyproduce a succession ofmaterials with widely differingproperties and performanceapplications – often within asingle shift.

For customers of Monforts,these range from substrates fordigitally-printed soft signage tocarbon fabrics for today’s high-performance composites, andfrom filter media which mustperform in extreme temperaturesto flame retardant barrier fabrics.

Then there are the heavy dutymembranes which are employedin the collection and storage ofmethane in biogas plants, as wellas materials equipped withsensors and electrical conductorswhich are now used as baseliners in DSC solar cells, to namejust a few examples.

These very different materials,however, have one thing incommon – they all require expertcoating and finishing formaximum efficiency and thetechnology to allow for ultimateflexibility and the ability to switchquickly from one fabric formula tothe next, without compromisingon the economical use of energyor raw materials.

ModulesThe introduction of the latestMonforts multi-functional coatingheads for the company’sindustrial texCoat and Allroundcoating units offer an unprece-dented range of options, withmodules available for:• Screen printing. • Magnetic roller coating. • Knife coating (two versions

for differing applications). Monforts is also now offering thecoating roller for the texCoat andAllround coating units as anoptional carbon fibre version, inorder to meet even the highestlevel of coating accuracy that isbeing demanded by the mostexacting customers today.

The carbon rollers provide theextreme stiffness necessary todeal with the winding tensionrequired in the processing ofmaterials such as prepregs forcomposites and otherheavyweight fabrics, but at thesame time, a significant

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

World of Textiles | Europe | 5

enabling improved machineavailability while considerablyminimising downtime.

Virtual monitoringOn request, Monforts can alsovirtually monitor machineperformance and pro-activelyalert customers to the need forpreventative action. In suchcases, however, data is only evercalled from the cloud byMonforts when customers havegiven their full consent, in theinterests of data security.

Data from Smart Check, for example, can even be used toanalyse a system’s energyrequirements, allowing machineoperation to be optimised bytailoring production runs to the peaks and troughs ofelectricity costs.

The Monforts digital twinsystem and apps, along with ourQualitex control system, are beingmade available for all of ourmachine ranges going forward,including Montex stenters,Thermex and E-Controlcontinuous dyeing ranges,Monfortex and Toptex shrinking

A modern coating range with an integratedMonforts texCoat unit installed in Germany.

Page 6: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

Organic solventsThere has been a wariness abouthandling organic solvents, but inthe end, they’re not as difficult tocoat on textile substrates as theyare on plastic films where they’realready widely used, and theyoffer a lot of possibilities forcompanies to explore anddevelop entirely new products –especially in fields such asmedical and filtration.

Nevertheless, they do require ahighly-controlled and containedenvironment, and this was a keyconsideration when constructingthe technical textiles line that isavailable for trials at the AdvancedTechnology Centre (ATC) at ourheadquarters inMönchengladbach, Germany.

This incorporates a Montex four-chamber, horizontal chain stenterand is fitted with an explosion-proof coating applicationchamber.

Every single component withinthe chamber has to meet thestandards of the European Union’sATEX directives for working in anexplosive atmosphere. A range ofsensors linked to alarms operate atvarious levels within the chamberto ensure the specified lowerexplosion limit (LOL) is neverexceeded and the ventilationadapts accordingly.

Special features on the finishingline relate to a further advancedfunction – the ability to treatmaterials not only at temperaturesof up to 320°C, but also to be ableto treat the top and bottom faces ofcertain materials at differenttemperatures within a single passthrough the machine.

To achieve this, the first twochambers of the stenter are fittedwith special, heavy duty TwinAirventilation motors and separateburners for individual top/bottomtemperature. A temperature differ-ential of up to 60°C can beachieved between the upper andlower nozzles within the chamber.

There are many applicationswhere employing two separatetemperature treatments isbeneficial, such as floorcoverings –

6 | World of Textiles | Europe |

improvement in coating accuracyis achieved, even for verylightweight flexible materials. Inaddition, the surfaces of therollers are protected against bothabrasion and damage fromaggressive chemicals by a specialceramic coating. A further benefitis that the rollers are much easierto clean.

Nowadays we are the onlymanufacturer which can offercompletely integrated coatinglines from a single source and thecoating machine is tailored to thesubsequent Monforts dryingtechnology – with all the benefitsresulting from a fully integratedplc control.

Our system has the shortestfabric path from the coating unitinto the stenter and we have allvariations of coating applicationsystems too – and all of theseoptions are available in widerwidths, with the engineering and

manufacturing from a singlesource here in Europe.

Quick changesOn the Allround, the modularcoating heads can be quickly andeasily changed via a specially-designed undercarriage from the side of the unit, allowing it to be readily adapted fordifferent applications.

The Montex Allround consists ofa load cell, a spreading unit and apulling device along with theselected coating head. It allows forthe tension-free coating of thesubstrate along a greatly-reducedweb path and a very short periodof ‘open’ coating prior to itentering the dryer, to ensuresignificantly less chance ofcontamination. The shortestpossible distance between thecoating head and the stenterinfeed ensures the highest qualitycoating results.

www.monforts.com

The latest Qualitex control systemmakes the operation of Monfortsmachines much simpler.

Page 7: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

where the textile face fabric istreated at one temperature andthe rubber backing at another – aswell as PVC flooring employingchemical foams or for materialslike black-out roller blinds withheavy backings.

At the same time, in thepharmaceutical industry there is awide range of differentapplications for organic solventssuch as anti-septic treatmentswhich have to be treated verycarefully and applied at veryspecific temperatures in order notto destroy their efficacy.”

Other materials, such as PTFE-coated filter materials are alsoapplied and then cured atseparate temperatures.

StretchingAnother key feature of thetechnical textiles line at our ATC isthe special stretching devicewhich is capable of pulling tentons in length and ten tons inwidth – a huge amount per squaremetre of fabric and necessary inthe production of materials such

as woven or 3D knits for hightemperature filter media.

Eco ApplicatorFor conventional woven andknitted fabrics, the Monforts EcoApplicator as an alternative to thetraditional on-wet padder hasbeen highly successful since itsintroduction in 2011, bothintegrated into new finishing linesand retro-fitted to existing ones.

In many textile mills globally, thecost of running integratedmanufacturing lines – especiallythose for fabric finishing that caninvolve numerous sequences ofheating and subsequent drying –is now eclipsing the cost ofpaying people to operate them.

The ability of the Eco Applicatorto significantly reduce energycosts is the key reason for itsrapid acceptance on the market.

The soft coating unit in manycases eliminates the need for apadder, instead employing troughand roller techniques to apply therequired amount of liquid/coatingto the fabric.

The unit itself does not actuallysave the energy, but by applyingonly the precise amount offunctional finish, ensures thesubsequent drying time is shorter– in some cases dramatically so.

Some Monforts customers havereported success stories of cycleswhich previously took an averagearound 160 minutes beingreduced to just 40 minutes.Obviously, if you’re reducing thefull processing time to a quarter ofwhat it was, it has a significantimpact on the electricity, steamand gas that is being used.

While being widely market-proven on woven and denimfabrics, major knitting manufacturers are now alsoreaping the benefits the Eco Applicator provides.

Knitted fabrics must never bestretched and need to be treatedin a relaxed state. This is why, forexample, the Montex stenterdryer with vertical chain returnincorporates a TwinAir nozzlesystem that ensures the relaxedfabric is kept at a suitable heightin between the upper and lowernozzle system, allowing for thefabric’s ‘bowing’, since it can’t be stretched.

Similarly, the Eco Applicator for knits is fitted with an advancedguidance system specially-adapted to the needs of delicatetreatments and eliminating anypossible ‘curling’ of the fabricedges prior to entering thestenter.

Compared with a paddersystem, where the initial moisturecontent of the fabric entering thestenter is 60%, with the EcoApplicator it is reduced to 40%and the system also has theshortest fabric path from thecoating unit into the stenter.

The Eco Applicator’s versatilityalso allows mills to apply finishesto just one side of the fabric, orboth, and even to apply separatefinishes to each side, or tospecific areas of a fabric, forendless possibilities, whethertreating wovens, denim ordelicate knits. �

World of Textiles | Europe | 7

The Web-UI app enables theprocess monitoring of machineparameters on handheld devices.

Page 8: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

8 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Having installed its first Monforts Montex stenter justtwo years ago, during 2019 Germany’s GtA has installedtwo more – as it runs 24 hours a day to meet unprece-dented demand from the digital printing market.

Absolute printquality guaranteed

A new standard in pure white,100% clean and fault-free textilesubstrates has been demanded inrecent years by the rapid growthin digitally-printed banners andhoardings – often referred to as‘soft signage’.

Purpose builtIn response to this demand, GtA(Gesellschaft für textileAusrüstung) formed in 2016 and erected a purpose-built plant on a greenfield site inNeresheim, Germany.

The plant was first equippedwith a fully-automated 72 metrelong installation comprising awashing machine integrated

with a 3.6 metre wide, seven-chamber Monforts Montexstenter, purpose-built at MontexGmbH in Austria.

Building on the success of thisinstallation, the company has thisyear installed two more Montexlines – both with an expandedworking width of 5.6 metres – asix-chamber unit for furtherwashing processes and a five-chamber line for coating.

GtA is run by a seasoned teamof textile professionals led byManaging Director Andreas Niess,with the backing of Georg andOtto Friedrich – one of the largestmanufacturers of warp knittedtextiles in Europe.

With two production plants inGermany and headquartered atGross-Zimmern, close to Frankfurt,Georg and Otto Friedrich has amonthly production of more than450 tons of warp knits – theequivalent of around six millionmetres – for a range of end-useapplications, including garments,automotive interiors and technicaltextiles, in addition to digitalprinting substrates.

It is for digital printing, however,in addition to certain interiorfabrics, which are washed andtreated at the Neresheim plant,that GtA was established.

“I have worked with otherstenter manufacturers in the past,

GtA managing directorAndrew Niess (left), andproduction and qualitycontrol manager Zeki Yagizi.

Page 9: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

In addition, GtA has purpose-designed the automatic chemicalmixing and dosing system thatfeeds to the padder for the sevenkey treatments that are carried outon the fabrics through the stenter.

“Here too, we have an extraor-dinary precise quality control andusability,” explains AndreasNiess. “Our daily philosophy iszero mistakes enforcedthroughout the company.”

Also fully automatic, are the rollinspection tables after the winderand a robotised cutting andpackaging system which convertsthe master rolls down to 75,100,200 or 300 metre packages to bedespatched back to Georg and

Otto Friedrich and its manydistributors and partners ready tobe printed.

The finished rolls are automat-ically glued with RFID labels andembedded in to the company’sown system.

GtA started production inFebruary 2016 and for the first five months ran a singleeight-hour shift. In July 2016 thiswas increased to two eight-hourshifts daily and since January2017, the company has beenoperating a three-shift system 24 hours a day.

Now it will have greatlyexpanded capacity, such is thedemand for its fabrics. �

GtA

World of Textiles | Europe | 9

but we opted for Monfortstechnology and the company’sexcellent service we havereceived,” says Andreas Niess.

Zeki Yagiz, Production andQuality Control Manager agrees.“We are fully in control of allproduction and quality parameterswith these lines,” he says.

The substrates of choice fordigital printing are 100% polyesterwarp knits which have extremelysmooth surfaces. This isbecoming increasingly critical dueto the general move away fromPVC coatings which were thestandard in the past.

In addition, they are resilient andallow excellent take-up of inks,and vibrant colours and clear andprecise images to be achievedwith digital printing techniques.The knitted construction also hasthe advantage of elasticity, whichis a plus in terms of flexibility for installers.

The raw fabrics being finishedand coated are supplied by Georgand Otto Friedrich to GtA inweights of 50-350gsm, in rolls ofup to 600 kg or 1,800 metres.Depending on the fabric weight,GtA is running the initial stenter atspeeds of between 20-50 metresan hour at an averagetemperature of 200ºC.

Quality InspectionThe first entire finishing line iscontrolled by an EVA qualityinspection and control systemwhich analyses every squaremetre of fabric to ensurecompletely uniform and blemish-free production.

Another distinctive feature ofthe line is the proprietary additionto the Monforts air-to-air heatrecovery system which is nowstandard with Montex stenters.The first GtA line is alsoconfigured for air-to-water heatingto save considerable energy inwashing operations.

The complete demand for hotwater is generated by the heatexchanger which also ensuressurplus water for heating thebuilding and the roof.

The first 72 metre long installation comprising awashing machine integrated with a 3.6 metre wide,seven-chamber Monforts Montex stenter at GtA.

The new Monforts Montex coating line installedand awaiting commissioning earlier in 2019.

Page 10: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

ATB holds some 10,000 fabric samples instock, and its library is constantly growing.

www.monforts.com

10 | World of Textiles | Europe |

As the specialist in the supply of finished fabrics forEurope’s leading fast fashion retailers, Portugal’s ATBknows it can completely rely on its Monforts technology.

Ten thousand samplesfor 52 seasons…

Not so long ago there were justtwo fashion seasons per year, butwith the advent of ‘just in time’manufacturing and the optimi-sation of supply chains, thetimescale in the latest designsmoving from the catwalks to thehigh street stores has beendrastically shortened. Internetretailing has only acceleratedexpectations and with the adventof digitisation, the era of 52micro-seasons per year is verymuch upon us.

One company that was quickto recognise and respond to theemergence of fast fashion is ATB– Acabamentos Têxteis deBarcelos – established in 1985 inBarcelos in northern Portugal.

The company is dyeing andfinishing between 36-40 tons offabric on a daily basis for keycustomers including Benetton,Esprit, Mango, and also Inditex –the textile logistics chain behindthe hugely successful Zarabrand which is synonymous

with the rise of fast fashion.These customers are, says

company founder Mário Mano,extremely demanding in terms ofquick turnaround.

“The deadline is alwaysyesterday,” he jokes, “but the key to staying successful is in new technology investmentand at the same time new fabric developments.”

At the time of WOET’s visit, thecompany was keeping busy with ahuge €1.5 million order from

Page 11: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

In addition, the ATB plant isequipped with three MonfortsDynair relaxation dryers, with thelatest being installed in a newbuilding which is also presentlyused for warehousing but willeventually be used for additionalmanufacturing lines.

The ATB finishing plant isoperating over three shifts, for 24hours a day, and often atweekends too, Mr Mano says.

Samples and prototypesATB also holds some 10,000 fabricsamples in stock, and its library isconstantly growing.

“Our customers will ask forinitial fabric samples and thenvery quickly need five metres ofthe fabric for prototyping, so wehave to be very organised in thisrespect,” says Mario’s sonRicardo, who now works with hisfather managing the plant. “Wealso do a lot of shopping to equipour showroom, in order toinvestigate how our fabrics turnout in finished garments, and tolet our visiting customers knowthat we are anticipating all of theirneeds – with the help, of course,of our leading technologysuppliers like Monforts.” �

ATB

World of Textiles | Europe | 11

Inditex for a total of around 600tons of processed knitwear. ATB isone of the few companies withthe capacity to deal with such anorder, which in any case, is prettyunique these days.

Quick turnaround“Orders are usually for smallerquantities where the turnaroundtimes can be as little as a weekfrom the start of the knitting order to final delivery of the fully-finished fabrics, dependingon the quantity of course,” Mr Mano says. “We’ve evenreceived orders on a Thursdayafternoon and had them with thecustomer by the followingMonday morning.”

Knitting is carried out at ATB’ssister company Etevimol, also inBarcelos, with 87 employeesrunning some 160 knittingmachines supplied by the leadingEuropean manufacturers.

The ATB dyeing and finishingplant meanwhile has 187employees and investment in thelatest technology is ongoing. Inaddition to the knitted fabrics fromEtevimol, it also finishes wovenfabrics on a commission basis.

The company installed its firstMonforts Montex stenter frame in1990 and has subsequentlyordered four more over the years.All are 2.4 metres wide and useheat recovery units for increasedenergy efficiency and also thelatest control equipment, to grantthe highest possible processquality/reproducibility.

Mário and Ricardo Mano.

“The Monforts machines are known fortheir efficiency and the fabric quality thatcan be achieved,” says Mário Mano.

The Monforts Montex stenters at ATB areall 2.4 metres wide and use the latestcontrol equipment to grant the highestpossible process quality/reproducibility.

Page 12: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

12 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Three new Monforts finishing ranges were installed inrecord time for a Swiss mill to mark its 185th anniversary.

Weathering the storm

Switzerland’s long hot summer of2017 – the hottest for over acentury, with temperaturessoaring as high as 34°Cthroughout May and June – wasviolently interrupted in the firstweekend of July when heavystorms finally broke.

Particularly badly affected wasthe town of Zofingen in thecanton of Aargau, where BethgeAG Textilveredlung has operatedas a commission fabric finishersince 1834.

Hail“It started with the hail,” recallsthe company’s plant managerFrank Katzenstein, “the mostfierce hail storm I’ve ever seen,with stones as long as fourcentimetres. This was enough toclose all of the local roads andthen the rain started and justdidn’t stop – and the flooding andlandslides began.”

Nestled in the foothills aboveZofingen, the Bethge plant was inthe direct line of a 1.6-metre-highwave which thundered down ontothe town when a dam above itfinally burst its banks.

“It was unbelievable in itsferocity,” said Mr Katzenstein. “Itcrashed right through the steeldoors of the plant and completelyengulfed our machines. Almosteverything was destroyed.”

ChaosMore than 450 rescue workerswere mobilised to deal with thechaos in Zofingen, with theelectricity down, the railwaystation underwater and themotorway around the townclosed in both directions formany hours. Miraculously,although a number of peoplewere taken to hospital, nobodywas killed, but the freak stormhad caused millions of francs

worth of damage, with the Bethgeplant taking the brunt of it.

Crisis meetingThe following week a crisismeeting was held by the directorsof the family-owned company andit became clear that its finishinglines – including the existingMonforts stenter and shrinkagerange – would have to becompletely replaced.

“It really looked like the businesswas finished unless we couldresume operations in a verylimited amount of time,” MrKatzenstein said. “For many yearswe have specialised in thefinishing of woven textiles for thirdparty brands and distributors,primarily based on cotton andlinen, as well as some polyesterand polyamide. These aredestined for the home and hoteltableware and bedding markets inSwitzerland, Austria and Germany.

One of the two Montex stenters installed atthe Bethge plant is equipped with the latestMonforts texCoat system, as an extension ofBethge services to its customers.

Page 13: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

tablets, making navigationextremely easy and cutting downthe time required for becomingfamiliar with the system.Operation is via touchscreen andwheel-effect selection and thedashboard can be individuallyconfigured to meet the exactneeds of an operator’s tasks.

texCoatThe second Montex stenter thathas been installed at the Zofingenplant is equipped with the latestMonforts texCoat system, as anextension of Bethge services to itscustomers. As the onlymanufacturer which is able tooffer completely integratedcoating lines from a single source,the latest Monforts coating headsare tailored to the company’s

drying technology for maximumbenefits. Monforts offers multi-functional coating heads for itstexCoat units, with modules thatcan be integrated into new linesor retrofitted into existing ones.

In addition to its main markets,Bethge also manufactures certaintechnical textiles, as well asDamast fabrics and voilesdestined for Africa’s apparelmarkets. The company is nowback to full production, finishingsome three million metres offabric annually.

“Ongoing service from Monfortscontinues to be excellent,” MrKatzenstein concluded. “We havehad a long-standing relationshipfor many years, but were reallyimpressed with the service theyprovided this time.” �

BETHGE

World of Textiles | Europe | 13

“Hospital linen is another keyend-use sector for our fabrics, andas one of the few remaining textilefinishing operations in Switzerland– where both costs and environ-mental standards are extremelyhigh – our just-in-time deliveryand quality guarantees have beencrucial.

“Thankfully, Thomas Päffgen,Monforts’ area sales manager, andthe company’s manufacturing andinstallation teams, were able topull out all the stops for us.”

Bethge opted to order two newenergy-saving six-chamberMontex stenters, as well as aMonfortex compressive shrinkagerange which is characterised by alarger shrink cylinder allowing forlonger processing paths to achieveenhanced shrinkage values.

Record timeThe first stenter was manufacturedat the Montex plant in Austria andwas delivered, installed andcommissioned in a record time ofless than four months.

“We were able to salvage ourexisting air cleaning system andafter the first of the new stenterswas up and running we were ableto resume operations and build upback to where we were, month bymonth,” Mr Katzenstein said.

All of the Monforts lines haveworking widths of 3.4 metres andbenefit from the latest Qualitex800 control system. This has all ofthe familiar features oftouchscreen smart phones and

Bethge’s plant managerFrank Katzenstein.

Bethge’s new Monfortex compressive shrinkage range has alarger shrink cylinder for enhanced shrinkage values in fabrics.

Intuitive automation and surveillanceof the machines is via the MonfortsQualitex control system.

Page 14: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

14 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Monforts technology is providing major benefitsfor the French luxury brands fabric supplierrenowned for its know-how in silk finishing.

Zero defects ‘a la lyonnaise’

Quality is the number onerequirement for Hugotag, aspecialist French finisher of silkfabrics to many of the world’smost prestigious luxury brands.

Now a member of the ChanelGroup, the company in itspresent form represents themerging five years ago of twoformer silk businesses – Tag,founded in 1974 in Fourneaux,close to Lyon, and Hugo Soie, aSt Etienne-based company with a200-year history.

ConsolidationInvestment in new equipment hasfollowed the merger and consoli-dation of the companies at theFourneaux site, includingadvanced digital printingmachines, as well as the instal-lation of a finishing line centred onthe latest Monforts Montex 8500stenter and a Matex padder.

The five-chamber Montex 8500machine at the Fourneaux plant isequipped with newly-developed24-inch visualisation monitors,providing total, intuitiveautomation and surveillance viathe Monforts Qualitex 800 system.

Precision“It’s an excellent machine,” saysHugotag Director General PhilippeMagat. “The key parameters forus include homogenous dryingover the length and width of themachine and precise control ofthe tension of the fabric, becausethe silk has a natural elasticity,even without the addition ofelastane. The Monforts stenterallows us to completely controlthe tension from the fabric entryright through to the windingmachines – and we have specialunits for winding onto small rollstoo.”

“The fabrics are very delicate andrequire a sensitive treatment whenbeing pinned into the stenteringchain, as well as very gentle drying– without the fabrics ever touchingthe nozzles and with absolutely noair turbulence in the dryer.”

“The humidity of the air insidethe stenter is crucial for ensuring aperfect quality fabric feel,” addsFrench representative for Monforts,Christophe Monel, of MonelIndustrie Services.

Fine silksHugotag is finishing some very finesilk fabrics indeed – sheer muslinsthat can be as light as 14 gsm,along with chiffons, and heaviersatins and twills. The weights of themore delicate fabrics are usuallybetween 20-50 gsm, and producedin average widths of 90 centimetresto a maximum of 1.9 metres on the3.2-metre wide Monforts finishing

Hugotag DirectorGeneral Philippe Magat.

Intuitive automation and surveillance areprovided via the Monforts Qualitex system.

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can now do it successfully,” saysPhilippe Magat. “More thananything, however, zero defects areour objective, and this issomething the new highly-automated and computerisedMonforts line is allowing us to achieve.

“We don’t need to run at highspeeds, and average 15-20 metresper minute, because the priority isperfection. Our customers are verydiscerning and even the smallest ofdefects can result in returns, whichwe simply can’t afford to allow todamage our reputation.”

The human touchIt is reassuring to know, however,that there are still some thingsthat highly-automated and

computer-controlled machineslike the Montex 8500 still can’t do– and perhaps never will.

Hugotag still relies on the keeneyes of its specialist quality fabriccontrol inspectors who havemany years of experience, ratherthan digital optical inspectionsystems that are readily-availableon the market.

“At this level of quality, it’s a skillmachines are simply unable toreplace,” Philippe Magatconcludes. “Through many yearsof experience I am able to spoteven the smallest detail that theaverage eye simply can’t see –and so can the specialist teamworking here. Our exclusivecustomers would expect nothingless.” �

HUGOTAG

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range. In haute couture finefashion, of course, they commandvery high prices.

As a result of the extremelyspecialist nature of handling suchdelicate fabrics, the Monforts linehas been equipped with a numberof additional features, includingspecial needle chain devices fordealing with knitted silk fabrics, asteamer unit, a computerised weft-straightening device andassociated controls, and ahorizontal combined chain.

The stentering chain iscompletely sealed – to avoid ~anygrease or oil coming into contactwith the fabrics at any time – andfitted with long-lasting lubricatedbearings.

Special attention has also beenpaid to energy recovery, with lowenergy consumption IE3 motorsand the integration of a full heatrecovery system into the line.

Philippe Magat confirms that thisis now providing Hugotag withsignificant energy savings.

Historic legacyLike its equally famous counterpartin Italy – Como – Lyon has histor-ically been associated with silkfabric production, and all ofHugotag’s fabrics are still wovenlocally. Piece-dyeing wasintroduced in Lyon and became anindustrial process in the mid-18thcentury and for a long timeremained a speciality of the region.Screen-printing is meanwhilesometimes known as ‘a lalyonnaise’ because Lyon isacknowledged as the first region toindustrialise the process during thissame period.

And although there still remainother silk finishers in France,Hugotag is one of only two to carryout the ‘degumming’ of the silkfabrics using ‘Marseilles Soap’ – achemical-free formulation based on100% olive oil, developed longbefore the concept of sustainabilitywas even known.

“It’s a very specific treatment andbecause the fabric is so verydelicate it’s very difficult to do onan industrial machine, but we

As a result of the extremely specialistnature of handling such delicate fabrics,the Monforts line has been equippedwith a number of additional features.

The five-chamber Montex 8500machine at the Fourneaux plant isequipped with newly-developed24-inch visualisation monitors.

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www.monforts.com

16 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Spain’s circular knits finishing specialist has recently takendelivery of a new Montex stenter at its Barcelona plant.

Trusted quality from Catalonia

In opting to partner with Monfortsfor the supply of its third fabricstenter, commission dyer andfinisher Tinfer put service – alongwith the proven reliability ofadvanced Montex stenters – at thetop of its list of priorities.

Founded in 1973, originally as Tintes Fernández, in Arenys de Munt, the company shortenedits name, expanded andrelocated to its present plant inPineda de Mar just down thecoast from Barcelona at thebeginning of the 1980s.

SpecialistTinfer has adapted over the yearsfrom being a supplier ofcommodity textiles toestablishing a reputation asSpain’s specialist in swimwearand sportswear – and especiallyin the dyeing and finishing ofcircular knits with a high degreeof stretch, based on elastaneswith polyesters, polyamides,cottons and their blends.

While 90% of its customers arethird party distributors inCatalonia, the fabrics Tinfer treats

are subsequently supplied togarment makers for the globalbrands and retailers and thecompany is a firm believer inthinking global while acting local.

“The emphasis can only be onconstant high quality, which ourcustomers expect as standard,”says General Manager XavierAlabau Basart, who is the son inlaw of the company’s founderJuan Fernández. “This in turnrelies on both our own highstandards and working withtrusted suppliers. We needed to

View from the operation deck.

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benefit from the integration of theself-cleaning Monforts EcoBooster heat recovery unit.

The Eco Booster is equippedwith an electric drive forcomputer-controlled optimisationof the heat exchanger’sperformance to the prevailingexhaust air streams – somethingthat is not possible with purelystatic heat exchanger modules.

“The Monforts Eco Booster heatrecovery unit puts an end tomaintenance downtime as a resultof its automatic cleaning control,

which means the machine doesn’thave to be stopped at all,” saysAguilar and Pineda Sales EngineerOriol Canet. “In addition, thedegree of soiling of the rotatingheat exchanger wheel ismonitored automatically, decidingwhen cleaning is required and towhat degree, so the mill no longerhas to rely on the operator.”

The new line is fully automatic,with all the intuitive featuresoperators will be familiar with fromtouchscreen smart phones andtablets provided by the MonfortsQualitex 800 control system.

This makes navigationextremely easy and has consid-erably cut down the time requiredfor Tinfer’s operatives to becomefamiliar with the system.

“In my opinion the latestMonforts Montex is withoutdoubt the best horizontal chainstenter on the market,” MrAlabau concludes. “We are nowbuilding on the additionalcapacity it has provided us withand we expect it to be fullybooked out very shortly.” �

TINFER

World of Textiles | Europe | 17

invest in a third stenter to increaseour capacity in response to higherdemand from our majorcustomers, and this time decidedto opt for the Monforts system.”

Know-howThe agent for Monforts inBarcelona, Aguilar and Pineda,benefits directly from thetechnical know-how of itsTechnical Director KarlSonnleitner. He was previously aSenior Engineer for Monforts at itsMönchengladbach HQ, so Tinfercouldn’t be in more experiencedhands at a local level.

“Not surprisingly, Karl’s anexpert in this field and located just30 kilometres from our factory,”says Mr Alabau. “There arealways teething problems withany new line but the responsefrom both Aguilar and Pineda andMonforts has been tremendous.”

The new six-chamber Montexstenter which was commissionedat the Pineda de Mar plant has aworking width of 2.2 metres. It isone of the first in Europe to

Tinfer General ManagerXavier Alabau Basart.

The stenter is one of the first in Europe tobenefit from the integration of the self-cleaningMonforts Eco Booster heat recovery unit.

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www.monforts.com

18 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Having only recently invested in what is now the largestMonforts Montex stenter installation in Europe, Portugal’sRiopele has placed a new order for a further machine of similardimensions to become operational during 2019.

Two-way trust

As the owner and third-generationchairman of Riopele – a companyestablished by his grandfatherwith just two water looms in 1927– José Alexandre Oliveira hasadopted a successful strategy offorming much stronger ties withboth customers and suppliers inrecent years.

Riopele’s customers, it shouldbe emphasised, are some of thebiggest high-end and luxurybrands in the world, includingArmani, Hugo Boss, Burberry,Calvin Klein, Karl Lagerfeld,Massimo Dutti, Paul Smith,Versace, Max Mara, VictoriaBeckham, Sandro and Maje.

Mutual success“We now have a closeness withthese customers that would havebeen inconceivable six or sevenyears ago, and it’s based on howthe industry has changed over that

period, and the two-way trust thatis necessary today, to ensure ourmutual success,” says Mr Oliveira.“We endeavour to be ahead of thefield, and key drivers for us arecurrently the new possibilitiesoffered by Industry 4.0 and digiti-sation, in addition to the pushtowards a circular economy.”

It’s certainly a strategy that ispaying off – between 2012 and

2016 the company, with 1,025employees, achieved an averageannual turnover of €71 millionwith an EBITDA margin of 8.5%.

In 2017, Riopele enjoyed its bestyear to date, with sales climbingto €74 million and an EBITDA of15%. The headcount at the plantin Pousada de Saramagos nearPorto has meanwhile increased to1,069 people.

Riopele chairman JoséAlexandre Oliveira.

Dominating the Riopele finishingdepartment is the latest Montex stenter.

Riopele’s four-hubPousada de Saramagosplant extends over an areaof 140,000 square metres.

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the stenter’s inlet and outlet, forthe gentle storage of a highvolume of material. The specialheat recovery system was alsotailored specifically to thecompany’s needs, based ondetailed calculations.”

The next ten-chamber MonfortsMontex stenter which is currentlybeing built will be operational thisyear, as part of a new €10 millioninvestment plan.

“We need close relationshipswith the suppliers of ourequipment, who we know to be the best in the world,” says Mr Oliveira. “When partnerslike Monforts develop somethingnew, we trust them to tell usabout it straight away so we can incorporate it into ourforward planning.

Technology and people“It’s no longer like in the past,when you would wait until thenext ITMA to discover what theywere unveiling. This is just thesame as the expectation from the

brands – they can no longer showgarments that will be available insix months’ or a year’s time,because consumers are nowgeared to having things they wantimmediately. These expectationshave totally changed howeveryone operates along theentire supply chain.

“Our ongoing investment intechnology is critical to keepingahead in the market, but just ascritical is our investment in ourpeople,” he adds. “Building on ourknow-how of 91 years andpassing it on to the cominggeneration is of extremeimportance. This is beingachieved through our internshipprogramme, research anddevelopment programmes withresearch centres and universities,and special initiatives such as anopen space R&D hub, bringingtogether our research,development and productengineering teams.

“All of this equips us for futuresuccess,” Mr Oliveira concludes. �

RIOPELE

World of Textiles | Europe | 19

VerticalEntirely vertically integrated, fromraw material to finished fabric,Riopele has a monthly output ofaround 700,000 metres of fabricsbased on synthetic, natural andrecycled fibres, with a speciali-sation in polyester, viscose andelastane blends. Production is 24hours a day, over three shifts andthe company’s key fabric brandsare Çeramica, Çeramica Clean,Tecnosilk and Tenowa.

Riopele’s strategy of closepartnerships also extends to itstechnology suppliers. Over anarea of 140,000 square metres,the four-hub Pousada deSaramagos plant is equipped withsome 30,000 spindles, tenwinding machines and over 60twisting machines, as well as 204weaving machines.

The company’s finishingoperations are divided into threestages – preparation, dyeing andfinishing – with a wide variety ofprocesses enabling the fine tuningof colour, touch, gloss, look,function and fluidity.

PartnershipAs long-standing partner withMonforts, Riopele has a variety ofthe German machine builder’sequipment, and dominating thefinishing department is the latestMontex stenter, with 12 chambersand a full installation length ofsome 70-metres. The line wasinstalled as part of a €14 millioninvestment programme between2014-16.

“This stenter combinesproduction efficiency withexcellent energy efficiency,ensuring a continuous productionflow with a positive impact interms of delivery time,” notesFernando Araújo, ofMaquicontrolo, the Monfortsagent for Portugal. “Monfortsworked closely with Riopele’stechnicians on the special design,which has a number of uniquefeatures designed according totheir specifications. These include,for example, special J-boxes at

The 12-chamber Montex stenter has afull installation length of some 70-metres.

Special J-boxes at the Montexstenter’s inlet and outlet allowfor the gentle storage of ahigh volume of material.

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www.monforts.com

20 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Swiss fabric innovator Schoeller Textil has taken the finishingof two-layer laminates for protective clothing and outdoorand active sportswear to a new level of production efficiencywith the installation of a Monforts Eco Applicator unit.

First at the finishingline for 150 years

The innovations over the decadesfrom Schoeller – which celebratedits 150th anniversary in 2018 – aretoo numerous to mention.

They include the introduction ofthe first elastic ski apparel at thestart of the 1960s, the integrationof Kevlar into motorcycle jackets

in the early 1980s and the firsttemperature regulating fabricsover twenty years ago.

From its base in the beautifulvillage of Sevelen, at the foot of ascenic stretch of the Swiss Alpsclose to the border with Austria,Schoeller has been responsiblefor a succession of award-winningand exclusive new fabric finishes,many of which are now licensedto third party mills.

These include coldblack® for UVprotection, energear™, whichexploits the beneficial propertiesof far infrared from the body,NanoSphere®, for water, oil anddirt repellency, along with highlywash and abrasion resistance,3XDRY®, for moisturemanagement, and the latestenvironmentally-sensitiveSchoeller treatments, ecorepel®

and ecodry.Having led the field in stretch

woven fabrics for many years,Schoeller considerably expandedits range of knitted fabricsthrough the acquisition of fellowSwiss manufacturer EschlerGroup in 2012.

StandardsManufacturing in Switzerland, of course, comes with environ-mental responsibility – the countryhas consistently ranked NumberOne worldwide in the Environ-mental Performance Index (EPI)and as a consequence, Schoellerhas had to meet standards even

The new Monforts Eco Applicator atthe Schoeller plant.

Schoeller’s Sevelen plant in Switzerland.

Page 21: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

Both stenters are connected to aheat exchange system. On thelatest stenter, the waste air alsogoes through the heat exchangerto heat up the fresh air, providingtwo sources of recycled energy –both air and water. Half of theenergy used for warm water atthe plant is gained through heatrecovery. The energy is harvestedfrom the waste air of the steamboilers as well as the stenters, andthe residual heat of the recoveredsteam condensation.

The Eco Applicator has beenintegrated at the start of thesecond Montex line at the Sevelenplant and its prime function is tomake substrates for Schoeller’smembranes hydrophilic on theirinner side and hydrophobic on theouter side in a single pass –although a further 20-25 differentfinishing treatments are alsocarried out on the line.

Minimal application“It’s not possible to finish thelayers individually, prior to hotmelt laminating so the fabrics andmembrane films are dyedseparately prior to beinglaminated, and then finished

together by the Eco Applicatorbefore going to the stenter,”explains Michael Killisperger,manager of Schoeller’s finishingand coating department. “The EcoApplicator is designed for minimalapplication, and we can measurethe moisture humidity at theentrance of the unit and then afterboth the first and second passesthrough it.

“Ideally we’re looking for 20%residual content – 10% on eachside. Most of these membranes arehighly elastic so high control of thefabric tension is also required toprevent the creation of stripes. Thiscan also be controlled at variouspoints within the unit.”

The installation is part of an on-going programme that has seenover 25 million Swiss francsinvested in new technology at theSchoeller plant over the pastdecade and has led to further newproduct developments such asthe introduction of upcycledEconyl® yarns (by Aquafil SpA)and the PFC-free ecorepel® Biotechnology, based on renewableraw materials, as newcomponents for the company’sindustry-leading membranes. �

SCHOELLER

World of Textiles | Europe | 21

higher than in surroundingEuropean companies.

Everything a manufacturingplant does is strictly regulated,including the land, water and airthat is used, but Schoeller was anearly responder in this respect,having become the first textilecompany in the world to receivebluesign® certification back in2001 – indeed, the company wasinstrumental in establishing thishighly-successful system.

It excludes all environmentallyharmful substances from themanufacturing process, setsguidelines and monitors theirobservance for environmentallyfriendly and reliable production.

Further, the company has aclose cooperation with theenvironmental authorities inSwitzerland and has also gone togreat lengths to ensure noemissions or noise come from theSevelen plant – which is in both arural and residential area – andthat it blends naturally into itsimmediate environment.

Natural fitThe advantages that can beprovided by the Monforts EcoApplicator for water, energy andraw material savings were anatural fit for the company’s plant.

It has been designed to providesignificant energy savings withreduced liquor application,eliminating the need for a conven-tional wet-on-wet padder andemploying trough and rollertechniques to apply just therequired amount of liquid/coatingto fabrics via contact with the roller.

As a long-standing Monfortscustomer, Schoeller alreadyoperates two 2.4-metre-wideMontex stenters, the most recentbeing a 60-metre long, ten-chamber unit.

This has a very long feed-inarea, since for some laminatedmaterials it is necessary to use two A frames for feeding in the different materials, as well as accommodating paddingand laminating/coating andbonding machines.

Schoeller two-layer membranes.

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www.monforts.com

22 | World of Textiles | Europe |

The exclusive wallcovering collections of Tapetex are to befound in the very best guest rooms of the world’s finest hotels,in executive boardrooms and offices and in top-of-the-rangeluxury new housing developments across the world.

Inspection boards for textile excellence

As family-owned company with a50-strong workforce at the plant inHelmond, The Netherlands,Tapetex takes the finest fabrics ofEurope’s most advanced weavingmills – pure silks, linens,jacquards, wools and suede – andturns them into unique collectionsvia a combination of in-housedesign know-how and advancedfinishing techniques.

Since 1975 Tapetex has beenconsidered the master in the fieldof textile wallcoverings, withsustainability and quality as itsmain focus. All products aremade from natural and renewablefibres such as linen, silk, cotton,viscose and only in exceptionalcases are man-made fibres used,if there is not yet a sustainablealternative. The company runs a100% water-based productionfacility in which PVC, solvents,plasticizers etc., are banned.

“Our aim is to always come upwith materials that othercompanies simply can’t make,”said Managing Director Bart vanden Broek, whose father foundedthe company in 1975 as a tradingoperation, before deciding tobring full finishing processes in-house a decade later, in order tobe completely in control ofquality and the just-in-time distri-bution network.

Specialisation“We opted from the start toconcentrate solely on wallcov-erings and our collections arenow well known to architectsΩand specifiers worldwide.Manufacturers for other marketsattempt to enter the field quiteoften, but find it harder than theyanticipated because it’s a complexmarket. They come and go.”

The Tapetex plant is equippedwith all of the latest technologyfor laminating and embossing,dyeing, double-sided coating andheatsetting, crushing, flocking,laser engraving and digital andconventional printing, including aMonforts Thermex dyeing line forboth wovens and nonwovens.

The company’s latest digitalprinting line is capable of simulta-neously printing three differentdesigns on 110 cm diameterjumbo rolls.

Recently, a 2.2-metre-wide, sixchamber Monforts Montexstenter has been installed in anew 4,000 square metreexpansion at the Helmond site.

“An older stenter is still beingused for more limited runs,” saidMr Van den Broek, “but with thenew Montex line we can do muchmore. It has allowed us tointroduce a number of newprocesses that were previouslynot possible.

“We can run coating andfinishing processes that needbetter temperature, moisture, and

Operator view of the stenter.

Tapetex Managing Director Bart van den Broek.

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these fabrics, so we rely on thebest computerised technology.”

The Tapetex collections aregenerally subtle and subdued,with an understated appearanceoften belying the sophisticatedtechniques behind their creation.

A material like Belle Epoque, forexample, is a tri-dimensionalsuede wallcovering which hasintricate laser cut patternsrevealing the nonwoven basefabric and with silver and goldtouches imprinted around its 3Dcrenulations.

Tech Inspirations, meanwhile, isa linen which has been cleverlyembossed in variated grid lines,its design trialled on a leadtemplate, so that its shimmers asthe eye moves across it and theviewer moves across a room.

Shambala Silk, a 100%handwoven silk, radiates luxurywith its natural sheen and verysubtle gold 3D print on top.

These are just three examples ofthe close to 400 fabrics in widthsof 110 or 137cm rolls that Tapetexkeeps in stock and currently sellsto over 70 countries worldwidevia its sales offices and agents.

Last minute“Our customers generally like toorder at the very last minute that ajob is specified and appreciate theready availability of what theywant, which can be shipped

anywhere in the world in a matterof days,” said Mr van den Broek.“We have established a very goodlogistics network worldwide.”

The company’s latest collectionis based on both wetlaid andspunbonded nonwovens.

“Again, many of these products are supplied in severallaminated layers with severalcoatings and usually double-calendered to provide the perfectfinish we need,” Mr van denBroek explained.

“Our nonwovens collections arenot cheap, but the materials fallbetween the general market forvinyl wallcoverings and our high-end wovens. Their big advantagecompared to vinyl is that they aremade from sustainable rawmaterials and furthermore allowthe walls to breathe – in someparts of the world mildew is anissue due to humidity but withtextile and nonwoven wallcov-erings there is no danger.

“The walls on which ourmaterials are eventually hung areessentially inspection boards.With other textiles in biggerproduction runs there are smallmistakes that can be worked with,but in what we do there’sabsolutely no margin for even thesmallest error.

“The new Montex is helping us achieve this very high quality standard.” �

TAPETEX

World of Textiles | Europe | 23

air speed parameters in a muchmore controlled way.”

Reliability and repeatabilityIt is one of the most meticulouslyclean plants in the world, and asan extra measure, all fabrics arebrushed as an initial step ineliminating dust and potentialcontaminants prior the start of thefinishing and converting steps.

“We need to be sure everymetre of fabric is perfect from thefirst to the very last of aproduction run,” said Mr van denBroek. “It’s about reliability andrepeatability.

“The Montex 6500 stenter hasbeen running very well and givesus complete computerisedcontrol of all parameters such astemperature, moisture andsetting times.

Proprietary recipes“We make all our own finishingrecipes and dyes in-house and tryto do as much as possibleourselves. We deal with a lot ofexpensive woven materials andquality has to be guaranteed –especially if an order is beingshipped to the other side of theworld from here.

“With these kinds of fabrics,even the smallest of mistakes canbe very expensive. There can beanywhere up to fifteen separatestages to the finishing of some of

The 2.2 metre wide, six chamber Monforts Montexstenter has been installed in a new 4,000 squaremetre expansion at the Helmond site.

Page 24: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

24 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Tessitura Oreste Mariani Spa is operating Italy’s first MontextexCoat coating unit at its plant in Gissano, just outside Milan.

Only the best forItalian luxury goods

The extremely flexible texCoatunit is allowing the company tocarry out both knife over air andknife over roller coating based onsimple and user-friendly PLCtechniques, with on-screen visual-isation for all operating modesand recipe management for manydifferent coating processes; allintegrated in to the provenQualitex control system of theMontex stenter.

Third generationTessitura Oreste Mariani Spa,founded in 1937, is now run byAndrea and Gaia Mariani and theircousin Edoardo Mariani – as thirdgeneration members of thefounder’s family. Today itspecialises in high-end linings forluxury handbags and shoes, aswell as continuing to also makethe umbrella fabrics which formany years were the company’ssole stock-in-trade.

“The company was founded bymy grandfather and initially wasjust a weaving operation, making

apparel fabrics, before the adventof synthetics, notably nylon,opened up a huge niche marketfor woven umbrella fabrics at theend of the 1950s in Italy,” explainsAndrea Mariani.

“The company, like a number ofothers, then devoted itself 100 %to nylon umbrella fabrics and itwas a strong business for manydecades. Then very quickly,Chinese companies were able tosupply a fully-made umbrella for

the comparative cost of an Italianfabric for one.

“Fifteen years ago, there weresuddenly 20 million Chinese-made umbrellas in Italy,accounting for 99% of the marketand many of the local manufac-turers and their suppliers wereforced to close down.”

DiversificationTessitura Oreste Mariani’sresponse was to diversify, initiallyinto sun umbrellas and gardenfurniture, but eventually its fabricsfor luxury leather goods camemore to the fore, built on firmrelationships with the brands, andtoday represent 85% of business,with the remaining 15% beingumbrella fabrics.

“This shift demanded significantinvestments to broaden ourdyeing and finishing operationsand become more verticallyintegrated,” said Andrea.

The company now operates 24doubled width weaving looms, 19

Mariani’s latest finishing lineis some 43 metres long.

Andrea and Gaia Mariani.

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The Montex 8500 stenter isdistinguished by several newfeatures, including a newlydesigned operator’s platform withimproved access, a new andimproved visualisation withmodern ‘slider effect’ on bigger 24inch screen monitors and the EcoBooster heat recovery module.

With the Qualitex visualisationsoftware, ‘finger tip’ controlfeatures offer smart phone-typetechniques for the machineoperators and ensure smarteroperating procedures.

Additional benefits allow theoperator to compose and pre-programme the ‘dashboard’ of themonitor to personal requirementsand preferences.

Full controlMariani is still working to furtherexploit the maximum benefitsfrom the new line.

“In many ways, it’s a lot simplerfor the operators becauseeverything is electronicallycontrolled,” says Andrea Mariani.“One major benefit with the newstenter, for example, is completeelectronic control of the tensionat all times, and the same appliesto temperature.

“We use a range of temperaturesfor our different finishing steps andeach chamber of the stenter canbe individually optimised. But, in away, it’s a little like changing froman old-fashioned desk phone to aniPhone for us – although relativelyeasy, it takes time to familiarise

yourself with everything that’sactually possible.

“The machine is longer than our other working four-chamber stenter, and the olderone it has replaced, and bycomparison, operating speedsare 30-40% higher.

“On average, we are runningeach fabric four times through thestenter, to thermo-fix beforedyeing, for drying after dyeing,for waterproofing and then for coating. With the texCoat, the application of coatingchemicals is very preciselymeasured and applied.”

Mariani’s fabric constructionsfor umbrellas are generally nylonwarp yarns with polyester weftyarns, but for luxury goods,combinations of many differentyarns are employed, includingwool and cotton and those basedon luxury fibres.

The weight range too is different,averaging around 50-60gsm forumbrella fabrics and up to 500-600gsm for luxury materials. A range of heavy duty double-faced Jacquards is also produced.

“Because the new Monfortstechnology is completelyelectronic, the adjustments fordiffering weights and fabricconstructions are immediate andinstantly compensated for, interms of tension control, humidity,machine speed and all otherparameters,” Andrea Marianiconcludes. “We are learning tototally trust this technology.” �

MARIANI

World of Textiles | Europe | 25

of which are equipped withJacquard harnesses, a range ofregular and high temperaturedyeing systems and two finishingand coating lines. It also has fullyequipped units for cylinder,screen and transfer printing alongwith a dedicated inspectiondepartment and a fully-equippedtextile testing laboratory.

ResidentialDue to the plant’s residentiallocation, it also benefits from advanced water, air and heat recycling and purification equipment.

“This change in response to themarket was something of arevolution for the company,” saysGaia, “because until then we hadbeen making standard fabricsbased mainly on one fibre – nylon– and producing bulk orders.

“In moving successfully into theluxury brands market we had toreview our entire operation andfocus on many different types offabric construction and designs,while at the same time shorteningour production cycles andenhancing our packaging anddistribution operations.

“We now work with many of thefamous luxury brands and 90% ofour manufacturing is personalisedfor them, based on discussionswith their designers about how tobest adapt the fabrics in ourregular collections for theirspecific leather goods.

“We are now very flexible interms of colours, constructionsand designs in striving to innovatewith them.”

“The readiness of some of thesebrands to explore the reshoring oftheir supply chains to localproducers has also been helpful inrecent years,” she adds, “althoughat the same time, the businessremains highly cost competitive.”

Mariani’s latest finishing linecertainly further strengthens thecompany’s position.

It is some 43 metres long and atits heart is the six-chamberMonforts Montex stenter andtexCoat coating unit.

With the Qualitex visualisationsoftware, ‘finger tip’ control featuresensure smarter operating procedures.

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www.monforts.com

26 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Through investment in new Monforts technology, IstanbulBoyahanesi is planning to increase its capacity for thecommission dyeing and finishing of woven goods to amonthly 2.5 million square metres during 2019.

Complete Econtrol

The company is surely also theonly dyehouse in Turkey to datewith its own proprietary softwarefor virtual control of alloperations via smartphone or TV from the boardroom.

The special app-basedprogramme has been developedby co-founder and director KemalTaşkin, who has a background insoftware engineering, and itprovides real-time information onall machine parameters andoperator activity.

“I am now developing it furtherand in the near-future it will alsobe able to provide financialforecasting for us right down toindividual batch level,” he says.

This development has much incommon with the advancesMonforts is making itself in thefield of Industry 4.0 andautomation, such as the latestQualitex control system and theWeb-UI app for remote visuali-sation of Monforts technologies viasmart phones and tablet devices.

Thermex EcontrolBased in the key Turkish textilecentre of Çerkezköy, IstanbulBoyahanesi was only founded in2017, on the site of an olderexisting dyehouse. It is a jointventure between two of Turkey’sleading textile wholesalers, YilmazKumaşçilik, which specialises infabrics for casual and outerwear,and shirtings and suitings textilesoperation Erika Kumaşçilik.

Immediately on its formation,the first move of the newcompany was to order a new

The Monforts ThermexEcontrol continuous dyeingline at Istanbul Boyahanesi.

Istanbul Boyahanesi plant managerHakan Kaplan (left) and co-founderand director Kemal Taşkin.

Page 27: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

The Thermex Econtrol rangehas a working width of 1.8 metresand allows the single-bathcontinuous dyeing of cotton andpolyester fabrics with selectedreactive and dispersion dyestuffs,as well as cotton-polyester blendsto be processed without reductiveintermediate cleaning, eliminatingthe need for a steamer.

Other processes, such as theuse of indanthren vat dyes forenhanced wash and boilfastness, or the over-dyeing onreactive-dyed cotton fabrics toachieve an extremely broadrange of colour effects, are alsocarried out on the range.

The range was installed andcommissioned in a very tightspace within the existing factory by Istanbul-basedMonforts partner Neotek Tekstil,which is also a new company,formed in February 2016 toassume responsibility forMonforts dyeing and finishingtechnology throughout Turkey.

In the short period since itsinception, Neotek has alreadyinstalled and commissioned over50 full Monforts rangesthroughout the country.

Continuous quality“The Monforts Montex stenter isof course, our key product and itsadvantages are well established,”says Neotek founder Ahmet Kiliç.“It allows our customers toachieve high quality contin-uously, with the trusted electronicdrive technology of Monforts.With the energy savings that areachieved they also save moneyand being robust, Monfortsstenters also require fewer spareparts and less maintenance, withremote assistance in any casealways available.

“All of the components inMonforts machines are the bestavailable and the majority of thecompanies in Turkey eitheralready have experience withthem and trust the brand, or seethe benchmarks being set bytheir competitors, makingMonforts technology the naturalchoice,” he adds.

“We have been very happy with the service we have receivedto date from Monforts andNeotek, and will continue to trusttheir technology going forward as we expand our business,” Mr Taşkin concludes. �

ISTANBUL BOYAHANESI

World of Textiles | Europe | 27

Monforts Thermex Econtrolcontinuous dyeing line.

“The existing equipment weinherited, which includes a 23-year-old Monforts Montex stenter,is only suitable for producingheavy weight fabrics with weightsof 300gsm and above,” Mr Taşkinexplains. “The new Thermexallows us to get down to fabricweights of 80gsm. The old paddyeing system we have is alsovery time-consuming and theThermex has allowed us toconsiderably shorten processingtimes for the heavier fabrics, whileat the same time considerablyexpanding our product offering.It’s an extremely versatile range,allowing us to instantly see theresults and to easily movebetween reactive and dispersedyeing, for example.”

Savings“Of course, there is nocomparison in terms ofchemicals and energy usage andwith the Thermex the savings areconsiderable,” adds plantmanager Hakan Kaplan. “It is alsoallowing us to make much longerbatches of fabrics.”

Istanbul Boyahanesi plant.

Dahboard of Istanbul Boyahanesi’s proprietaryapp-based plant control programme developedby co-founder and director Kemal Taşkin.

Page 28: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

28 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Portugal’s leading commission finisher has recentlyinstalled a new Montex stenter – despite some limitationson space for expansion at its Guimeraes plant.

One step ahead

In the commission finishingbusiness, finding the time to makenecessary new investments in thelatest technology can be difficult.Services can’t just stop and ordersbe delayed when an old machineneeds to be dismantled and a newone installed.

For Vaz da Costa, which wasfounded in 1960 on the edge ofthe historic centre of Guimaraes inNorthern Portugal, there’s also thequestion of space. The towncentre of Guimaraes has beenlisted as a UNESCO WorldHeritage site since 2001, yet itssuburbs have expanded signifi-cantly in the past half century andnow the Vaz da Costa plant issurrounded by residentialbuildings, making further outwardexpansion near-to impossible.

Nevertheless, the site iscurrently dyeing and finishingaround 100,000 metres of fabricdaily, and has expanded itscommissioning services tocustomers in France, Spain,

Belgium and Germany in recentyears. These exports now accountfor around 20% of totalcommission finishing business. Asecond business involving themaking-up, embroidery andpackaging of high-end bed andtable linen under the well-knownBovi brand also operates from thesite, with a total combinedworkforce of around 180 people.Around 80% of these productsare for export markets. Separateentrance and exit points for thetwo businesses have recentlyeased logistics.

Investments“We are currently in the middle ofwhat is our biggest everinvestment programme, althoughit’s pretty much an ongoingprocess,” says Amélia Marques,who joined the company, whichwas founded by her father, freshfrom obtaining her economicsdegree in the late 1970s. This wasat a time when the company was

struggling, as Portugal adjusted todemocracy in the years followingits Carnation Revolution of 1974.

“You can imagine, it was noteasy for a young woman to beintroduced to the management ofsuch a traditional company inPortugal back then, and my fatherhad his own way of doing things,so there was some resistance tomy ideas,” she says. Amelia wassoon joined by her brotherFrancisco and her sister Isabel,however, and together the triohave successfully steered Vaz daCosta’s progression ever since.Today, Amelia’s son and daughterare also part of the managementteam as it moves to thirdgeneration family ownership.

Vaz da Costa has recentlysuccessfully installed andcommissioned a new MonfortsMontex stenter, having previouslyopted for a machine from a rivalsupplier which provedproblematic on its installation in2012, as well as in subsequentday-to-day operation.

There have been no suchproblems with the new Monfortseight chamber machine, whichhas a working width of 3.6 metresand as such is one of the largestin Europe, operating continuouslyat speeds of above 100 metres aminute. It is equipped with aMahlo weft straightening unit anda Benninger padder, in addition toa Monforts Ecobooster hearrecovery system.

Fine tuning“There are always manyadjustments to be made in fine-tuning such a machine,” saysFernando Araújo, of

Vaz da Costa’s plant is on theoutskirts of Guimaraes in NorthernPortugal. The town’s centre hasbeen listed as a UNESCO WorldHeritage site since 2001.

Page 29: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

the laboratory stage and we nowhave two fully equipped labs,where personnel has increasedfrom a single person to eightpeople,” says Mrs Marques.

Following the installation of thenew Montex stenter, Vaz da Costais this year planning a further €5million investment programmewhich will see a new warehousebuilding, away from the mainsite, but closer to the mainmotorway link. New bleachingand singeing units and a drumdryer are also to be installed andthese will be built up at theformer warehouse in order tominimise the time required forinstallation and commissioning.

“We can’t afford to stopproduction for the usualtimescale involved so this willease the pressure and keepthings flowing,” Mrs Marquessaid. “It’s a question of organisingit all when and how we can, andwhen it will cause the leastdisruption, but we expect to haveit all completed shortly. We arealso currently exploring thepotential of digital pigmentprinting for our bed linenbusiness, and also looking at newembroidery machines and a newcalendar. Investment is ongoing,because only the strongestplayers who keep up with thelatest technology survive.” �

VAZ DA COSTA

World of Textiles | Europe | 29

Maquicontrolo, the Monfortsrepresentative for Portugal. “It’snot just like buying a new car.There are so many challengesarising on a day-to-day basis.”

“The automation features on thelatest Monforts machine certainlyhelp to eliminate any chance ofhuman error,” adds AméliaMarques, “but there are so manyparameters involved. The heatingdistribution, for example, isalways challenging. Maintaining aconsistent level can be difficult forso many reasons. It can be aquestion of the temperature in theplant changing rapidly, or thedifference between how themachine has been cleaned fromone shift to the next. There arelots of things you can’t seeimmediately and sometimes youonly detect things after a problemhas occurred. For this reason Idon’t think you’ll ever be able tofully automate a finishing line.”

The company is primarilyfinishing 100% cotton fabrics inwide widths, in the weight rangeof 130-200gsm, with very evenconditions required for thesqueezing.

Quality control“Because we are in constantproduction, the emphasis isincreasingly on quality control at

With eight chambers and a working widthof 3.6 metres, Vaz da Costa’s new Montexstenter is one of the largest in Europe.

The ‘disc-o-clean’ unit on thenew stenter carries out theautomatic sieving and collectionof dust from production.

Page 30: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

30 | World of Textiles | Europe |

Just in time reaction and action

We are currently facing thebiggest challenge of our times –what is now being referred to asthe 4th Industrial Revolution.

A. Monforts was founded in theyear 1884 and our evolution intextile engineering and machinebuilding has progressed frommechanical, steam and water-powered technologies to the firstmass production lines, electronicdrives and highly modularmachines such as our stenters.The move towards the currentstate of the art has involved firstlydata transfer and storage viainternet/intranet, along withteleservice solutions, followed byfull automation concepts.

Now we are truly in the digitalage, surrounded by smarttechnologies and permanentonline solutions.

With online finance andshopping, expert systems havebeen developed for optimizinginternationally-linked businesses,along with business models forglobal production planning, inorder to achieve the shortestpossible supply and delivery times.

ChallengesHow should textile manufacturersrespond to this situation?

At Monforts, we have a clearmission and are committed toinvesting in the digitization of our

technology in order to help ourcustomers respond to thefundamental challenges facing thetextile industry today. These canconstitute something of a viciouscircle of demands andexpectations as a result of:• Fragmented process chains.• Different time and

production scales.• Missing standards of

communication interfaces.• Small profit margins.

The reality of low margins andlow profits means that textilemanufacturers are ultimatelyfighting for every production centwhich can be saved. This canresult in a reluctance to invest innew textile machinery, butmanufacturers really need toexplore what additional value thelatest technologies can deliver.The era of digitization isdemanding new structures andnew ways of thinking, in order toassume digital leadership.

The key benefits the latesttechnologies can provide include:• A reduction in the cost of

energy sources.• A reduction in machinery

production costs.• The sharing of process operators.

The four Industrial Revolutions.

Hans Wroblowski, Area Sales Director andHead of Product Management for Denim atMonforts, proposes some positivemeasures for keeping a step ahead intextile manufacturing with Industry 4.0.

Hans Wroblowski.

Page 31: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

• The Matex Eco Applicator, as analternative to padding, for minimum liquor application, especially for wet-in-wet solutions. The guiding concept of this unit is “not more than necessary and result-oriented application” for liquid and energy savings of up to 40%.

• The Monfortex Eco Line shrinkage solution provides similar energy savings of up to 40% in comparison to traditional padder/cylinder dryer solutions.

• A basic solution for the introduction of two-way super stretch into denim carried out in a single processing step.

Steps to successful digitizationCompanies who choose to followa Textile 4.0 strategy can set outtheir path to digitization and theapplication of digital concepts by following these threepragmatic steps:• Give all things a name. For allproducts, sets and productionmaterials a clear ID has to bedefined, for example, with a barcode and thus a unique name.Further, digitizing and connectingproducts and the value chain canonly be made possible on thebasis of clear identification.• Measure, registration, measure.Measure all process relevant

INDUSTRY 4.0

World of Textiles | Europe | 31

• A reduction in machine downtime.

• Optimised production planning.

The objectives, which will result ina rapid return on investment are:• Higher productivity.• Higher machine availability.• Increased efficiency.

The expectation of the industry is‘just in time reaction and action’and time is the most valuableasset within our industry.

The latest tools which canensure this include:• Remote service, with easy

and secure connection to the machines.

• Maintenance and servicing management.

• Spare parts support and a shop system directly at the machine.

• Advanced monitoring and visualization of machine conditions.

Energy and resource savingsThe textile industry consumeshuge amounts of energy andresources at virtually all stages of production, but especiallyduring finishing, where largevolumes of water, chemicals andthermal energy are required. Asignificant portion of theseresources, however, can bewasted without precise feeding,monitoring and control.

The optimized handling ofthermal energy in particular, iscurrently a hot topic in the textileindustry and one which offers agreat deal of potential.

The latest Monfortstechnologies for enablingresource savings include:

The circulardilemma for textilemanufacturers.

Line configuration of the advanced solution for the introduction of two-way super stretch into denim carried out in a single processing step.

Page 32: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

32 | World of Textiles | Europe |

INDUSTRY 4.0

information by the use of sensors.Install sensors at multiplemeasuring points along theproduction line. The availability ofmeasuring data allows companiesto improve processing time andmachine ability.• Analyze Data. Connect theclearly identified products withtheir digital specification, theirproduction materials as well theirmanufacturing related processdata. Further, connect the differentsources of data-machines withinthe production chain. Create therequired communication and ITinfrastructures in order to achieveconnectivity and to be able tocombine and analyse data with anexpert system and a pre-adjustablerecipe data information system. access to comprehensive recipe

data and therefore enhancedmachine ability.

Through its target-oriented andintegrated digital intranet/internet-based Cloud solution, theaforementioned just-in-timereaction and action can beachieved to ensure that supplierand customer will be alwaysbenefit from a retrievable onlineinformation service.

SummaryThe significant opportunitiesarising from Textile 4.0 and theInternet of Things require elevatedinvestments, with intranet andinternet being the most importanttools in the future of efficientcorporate management.

We should not, however,underestimate the numerouschallenges that this transition entails.

The main sources of thebenefits in respect of productivity,efficiency and availability have yetto be defined between supplierand producer.

Of course, there are alreadyextremely optimized textileprocesses in use which areexecuted serially in a well-definedsequence. These will be furtheroptimized in the future and openthe route to the introduction ofnew production approaches. �

New Horizons with Qualitex The consolidation of theMonforts Qualitex digitalsolutions with the latestmechanical solution such asthe Eco Applicator or Eco Linecan be the basis for theefficient implementation of arange providing higherproductivity and efficiency.

The Qualitex offers theoperator more reliability,quicker access and thereforemore benefit. Theeasy operation byuse of the latestslider anddashboard functions withindividual adaption to theoperating states assures faster

The Qualitex offers the operator more reliability and quicker access.

The Matex Eco Applicator, as an alternativeto padding, for minimum liquor application,especially for wet-in-wet solutions.

Through its target-oriented and integrated digital intranet/internet-based Cloudsolution, the Qualitex achieves just in time reaction and action.

Page 33: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

has seen the installation of a newEuropean-built Monforts ThermexEcontrol dyeing system as well astwo ten-chamber MonfongsMontex stenters and a Monfongssanforising unit, all of which havebeen installed and commissionedby Istanbul-based Neotek.

Wider range“In combination with the newMonforts Thermex system, thisprovides us with a far widerrange of fabric finishes andsurface effects that we canachieve compared to ourcompetitors,” says Arta plantmanager Mehmet Kalipçioĝlu.“Our dyeing methods includereactive, sulphur, indanthrene,indigo, pigment and dispersedyed fabrics, along withspecially-developed in-housetechniques and special glitter, PU,pearl and other blade coatings.Through combinations of all ofthese techniques, we are able toprovide our customers withhighly-differentiated fabrics.”

Added to these winningcombinations can be a variety offinish effects such as silicone,wrinkle-free, paper-touch, waterrepellent, stain repellent, anti-bacterial, fire-retardancy etc.

Single processOne special development Arta hasbeen involved with in a jointproject for TÜBITAK – TheScientific and TechnologicalResearch Council of Turkey – hasresulted in a fast and economicalmethod for applying both reactivedye and a version of pigment dyein a single process.

“Since the washing effects ofreactive and pigment dyes are fardifferent, there are some coloursyou can only get with either, but ourcustomers can now achieveoutstanding new colour shadesafter garment washing with thisprocess, and different shades orcontrast colours can be combined,”Mr Kalipçioĝlu explains.

The latest Monforts andMonfongs installations, he adds,have resulted in a productionincrease of over 50%, with amarked improvement in qualityand reproducibility. �

ARTA

As an accredited supplier to leadingEuropean retail brands, Turkey’s Arta Tekstil is seeing a programme ofcontinuous investment over the pastthree years now paying solid dividends.

Winningcombinations for Arta

World of Textiles | Europe | 33

With a monthly productioncapacity of around 4 millionmetres of finished woven fabricsper month, Arta employs 3,000workers over three shifts daily,with 50% of its output exportedto key retail customers and theother half produced on acommission basis.

The company is situated inÇorlu, some 70km west ofIstanbul – a city which hasboomed over the past 30 years,with its population having risenfrom barely 20,000 to over270,000 people. This has largelybeen due to a welcomingimmigration policy and the newtextile mills which have emergedin the past few decades.

Of the 350 textile companies inÇorlu, however, around 250 areestimated to be dyeing andfinishing operations, so how, youmay ask, does a company likeArta distinguish itself?

The answer is through clevercombinations of processesexploiting its comprehensivedyeing, finishing, coating anddigital and rotary printingtechnologies to the full.

In addition to othertechnologies, the company’srecent investment programme

Arta plant managerMehmet Kalipçioĝlu

Page 34: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

www.monforts.com

34 | World of Textiles | Europe |

As the key site for the construction of Monforts finishing machines, Montex Maschinenfabrik in Austria is currently workingflat out to meet a very busy new order schedule and plays a keyrole in finalising the new machines for ITMA exhibitions.

Passing on the know-how

“We have been working veryclosely with the Monfortsresearch and development teamin Mönchengladbach, Germany, totake the latest new ideas throughtesting and prototyping, inreadiness for ITMA 2019 and forfuture series production,” saysMontex plant manager Gert Hanzl.“We are fully exploiting the manynew possibilities being offered byIndustry 4.0 in the continuousdevelopment of design andmanufacturing methods.”

Located in St. Stefan, in the

centre of Austria’s Lavant Valley,Montex Maschinenfabrik wasfounded by Monforts in 1982 asan advanced manufacturing hub.

“Our area is known as the‘paradise of Carinthia’ due to itsfavourable climate,” says Gert.“Lignite was mined up to a depthof 600 metres here until 1968.From the outset of Montex in1982, we have specialised in allaspects of machine production,including high-precision sheetmetal working, laser cutting andwelding, the assembly of

components, painting andshipping, along with a well-organised spare parts service.”

The Montex machine shop isequipped with advanced Trumpflaser and CNC cutting machinesand presses, with the powdercoating of exterior panels alsocarried out for rapid turnaround.

“The respective electrical switchcabinets for the machines aredelivered just-in-time fromMonforts in Germany accordingto our production schedules,”says Gert.

The Montex Maschinen-fabrik production site inSt. Stefan, nearKlagenfurt in Austria.

Page 35: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

include a complete portfolio ofcoating units for virtually allapplications in textiles. These havebeen further developed and beenadapted to Monforts electrical plc-control standards and are nowavailable as the Monforts texCoatand Allround units.

“The business is currentlyrunning very well and with ITMA2019 approaching we are readyto meet a special challenge,”Gert says, emphasising that theloyalty and satisfaction of theMontex workforce is ofparamount importance.

Advanced training“We have employees who haveworked at this site since thefoundation of Montex Austria, but

it’s very important that we trainapprentices at the same time, inorder to pass on our know-howand ensure the high standard thatcustomers expect from Monfortssystems is maintained goingforward,” he says. “One of the keyadvantages of being here in theheart of Europe is the Trial TrainingSystem – one of the best trainingsystems in the world. It combinestheoretical instruction in avocational school with practicaltraining both within the companyand in training workshops.

“Established staff also trainregularly to develop new skillsand everyone is involved at allstages of production and trainedto multi-task. This gives usflexibility and strength.” �

MONTEX

World of Textiles | Europe | 35

Special machinesWhile there is standardisation inseries-produced Monfortsmachines, Montex is increasinglycalled upon to construct tailormade machines with uniquedesigns, according to the specialneeds of the customers.

“We aim for the bestcombination of already-provencomponents and carefully-testedspecial constructions,” says Gert.“We are able to handle extremelylarge projects, having recentlyshipped a complete finishing lineto one customer within eightweeks, and we were particularlypleased with our proven design ofa challenging stenter frame with a320-degree temperature chamber.We are currently manufacturingmachines with working widths of5.6 metres and we can producethose with widths of up to sevenmetres, if requested.”

The core Monforts machinerange, including the industrystandard Montex stenters, alongwith relaxation dryers, Thermexdyeing ranges andMonfortex/Toptex compressiveshrinking ranges as well as Matexpadders and Eco Applicatorminimal coating units, has beensignificantly expanded with theacquisition of Timatec in 2015, to

Loading of a wide width machine fora new Monforts reference customer.

Montex Maschinenfabrikplant manager Gert Hanzl.

Page 36: World of Textiles · textiles and clothing industry to its overall economy, Lutz Walter, director of innovation and skills at Euratex – the European Textile and Apparel Council

Montex stentersLeading High Tech features for permanently achieving best finishing results.The built-in quality control is always visible withQualitex 800 PLC control. And with Web-UI* on your mobile devices.Ask for details.We will be pleased to inform you further.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KGGermany | A member of CHTC Fong’s Group

www.monforts.com

Ready for your future success

*opt

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