Gdansk - Poland

World Textile Conference3rd AUTEX CONFERENCE

Book ICiviltex 2003

Textiles-Necessary Conditionfor Development of Civilization

Tex E&R 2003Textile Education & Research:

Evolution or Revolution?

25-27 June 2003

Tex E&R

UB/TIB Hannover123 356 563

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Organized by:Technical University of LodzFaculty of Engineering and Marketing of Textiles

3rd Autex ConferenceJune 2003

Contents

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25, 2003 CIVILTEX

Plenary Session 1New trends in biotextiles - M. W.King, Department of Textiles and Apparel, Technology andManagement College of Textiles, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC, USA

Plenary Session 2Smart textiles, an overview - L. Van Langenhove, C. Hertleer, Department of Textiles Ghent '~\5University, Belgium

System for fabric appearance evaluation using image analysis methods - J Hu E 21Newton, Y-C. Fong, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Horn, Kowioon, Hong KongSimulating fitting cloth model of apparel surfaces - E. A. Elnashar, Lecture of Textiles & 27Apparel, Faculty of Specific Education, Kafer Elsheikh, Tanta University, Egypt

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Novel Fibres and Advanced MaterialsBiomimetic manufacturing of customized novel fiber proteins for specializedapplications - F.Teule , C.Aube1, M. Ellison2, A.Abbott1,1Dept. of Genetics and Biochemistrybchool of Materials Science and Engineering, Clemson University, SC, USA

The mechanism and kinetics of obtaining the biologically active complex fiber - insulinas artificial insulin store - P.Skundric\ M. Kostic1, A. Medovic2, L. Soasic-Kliajic31

Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, University ofBelgrade, Junior College of Textiles, 3Lenalpharm, Belgrede, Serbia and MontenegroElectroactive fabrics and wearable biomonitoring devices - D.deRossi1 F Carpi1 FLorussi A, Mazzoldi , R. Paradiso2, E.P.Scilingo1, A. Tognetti1, interdepartmental Researchcentre E. Piaggio , Faculty of Engineering, University of Pisa,2 Smartex s.r.l, Pisa, ItalyOptical fibres in weaving constructions - possibilities and limitations - A. Harlin MMakinen, P. Heikkila, Tampere University of Technology, Fiber Material Science, Finland

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Innovative Techniques for Yarn and Fabric ManufacturingA new approach for determination of yarn hairiness - B. Neckar J Voborova - 61Department of Textile Structures.Technical University of Liberec, Czech RepublicThe influence of spindles vibrations on technological process of trapped twisting of 68chemical fibers - A.Oks, Research and Technological Company ESTA, Riga, Latvia

Innovative systems for giving compactness to continuous bundles of parallel fibres - F 72Jestore , G. Belforte , A. Ivanov2, S. Mauro2, department of Chemical EngineeringDepartment of Mechanics, Politecnico di Torino, Italy

Air-textured technical sewing thread mechanical properties' dependence on 75manufacturing parameters - M. Balaisis, V.Jonaitiene, S. Stanys, Departament of TextileTechnology, Kaunas University of Technology, Kaunas, Lithuania

3rd Autex ConferenceJune 2003

Innovative Techniques for Textile Finishing and CareDoes and don'ts in bioscouring: opportunities for an efficient enzymatic scouring 82process - P.B. Agrawal, V.A. Nierstrasz, M.M.C.G. Warmoeskerken, Textile TechnologyGroup, Department of Chemical Technology, University of Twente, The Netherlands

Enzymes and textiles - the rate of degradation on different fibers with various types of 89cellulase-blends - C. Schimper, R.Campos, C.lbanescu, T. Bechtold, Christian-DopplerLaboratory For ..Textile And Fibre Chemistry Of Cellulosics", Institut Fur Textilchemie UndTextilphysik Der Leopold-Franzens-Universitat Innsbruck, Austria

Utilising cold-plasma technology in functional textile finishing - M.lsosomppi, P. 96Nousiainen, P. Vesa, M. Jarventausta, P. Heikkila, M. Heino, E. Leppanen, institute of FibreMaterials Science, Tampere University of Technology, Finland

The validation of plasma treatment processes used for the fluoro-polymerisation of 102cotton fabric - A.F. Fotheringham1, H. de Moncuit2, 1Biomedical Textiles Research Centre(BTRC), Heriot Watt University, UK, 2Ecole Nationale Superieure Des Arts Et IndustriesTextiles (ENSAIT), France

Novel Fibres and Advanced MaterialsApplication of microcapsules of phase change materials to textiles for thermal 107insulation and comfort without loss of permeability - J. I.N. Rocha Gomes, I.S.M. Cardoso,P.R.B.Santos, Departament of Textile Engineering, University of Minho, Portugal

Porous fibers from Poly (trimethylene terephthalate) - R. Kotek, D.W. Jung, P.Guzman, 111B.Smith, College of Textiles, Textile Engineering, Chemistry & Science, North Carolina StateUniversity, USA

Electrical property of conductive polymers/PET nanocomposites fibers - B. Kim, 117V.Koncar, E. Devaux, GEMTEX/ENSAIT, France

Morphplogy and properties of polypropylene/polyester blend fibres - A. Marcincin, A. 122Ujhelyiova, E. K6rmendyov£, Slovak University of Technology, Faculty of Chemical and FoodTechnology, Bratislava, Slovakia

Eco-friendly agro-tech protective clothing - a new fabric from agro waste - Siddhartha 128Sengupta, Assistant Professor of Textile Chemistry, College of Textile Technology, WestBengal, India

Innovative Techniques for Yarn and Fabric ManufacturingInterest of a compound yarn to improve fabric performance - M. Ferreira1, S. Bourbigot1, 134X. Flambard 1, B. Vermeulen 1, F. Poutch2, 1Laboratoire De Genie Et Materiaux Textiles(Gemtex), 2Ecole Nationale Superieure Des Arts Et Industries Textiles (Ensait), France

Integral design of preforms from hybrid fibrous material for composite rotor applications 139- T. Leopold, B-D. Choi, C. Herzberg, P. Offermann, H. Rodel, Institute of Textile and ClothingTechnology, Dresden University of Technology, Germany

New capabilities in yarn high speed testing - F. Marques1, M.E. Cabeco Silva1, A. A. 146Cabego Silva1, J. Y. Drean2, 1Departamento De Engenharia Textil, Escola De Engenharia DaUniversidade Do Minho, Portugal, 2Laboratoire De Physique Et Mecanique Textiles, EcoleNationale Superieure Des Industries Textiles De Mulhouse, Mulhouse Cedex, France

Modelling the relationship between feeding sliver structures and parameters of cotton - 152linen blended yarns - T. Jackowski, B.Chylewska, D.Cyniak, J.Czekalski, L.Jackowska-Strumitfo1, Department of Spinning Technology and Yarn Structure, 1 Computer EngineeringDepartment, Technical University of Lodz, Poland

Weavability of unconventional yarns - B. K. Behera & V. K. Joshi, Department of Textile 162Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi, India

June 2003

Parallel Session 3/2

Innovative Techniques for Textile Finishing and CareIonic crosslinking of cotton - P. J. Hauser1, C. B. Smith1, M. M. Hashem2, 1North Carolina 169State University, Raleigh, North Carolina, USA, 2National Research Center, Cairo, Egypt

Surface modification of cellulose fibres with cellulases - M.Lopez-Lorenzo, V.A. Nierstrasz 175and M.M.C.G. Warmoeskerken, Textile Technology Group, Faculty of Science and Technology,University of Twente, The NetherlandsUltrasonic-chemical-enzymatic cottonsation for bast fibres - C.Sirghie1, L. van 182Langenhove2, M. van Parys3, A. de Raeve3, 1Hogeschool Gent, Department CTO-TO2C,Gent,2Universiteit Gent, Textile Department, 3Hogeschool Gent Department CTO-TO2C, Gent,BelgiumAlternative refinement methods for complex flax fibres using data on their structure and 188phase composition - A.K. Izgorodin, Y.V. Konoplev, V.N. Galashina, Ivanovo State TextileAcademy, RussiaProperties of refined complex flax fibres - A.K. Izgorodin, Y.V.Konoplev, Y.V. Senchenkov, 191Ivanovo State Textile Academy, Russia

THURSDAY, JUNE 26, 2003 CIVILTEX

Parallel Session 1/3

Novel Fibres and Advanced MaterialsCellulosic fibres and fabrics with interactive properties - B.Laszkiewicz1, R. Koztowski2, P. 194Kulpinski1, M. Rubacha1, J.Nowalinska2,P.Czamecki1, B.Niekraszewicz1, technical Universityof Lodz, Men-Made Fibres Dept, institute of Natural Fibres, Poznan, Poland

Antibacterial cellulose fibres obtained by NMMO process - B. Niekraszewicz, Department 199of Man-Made Fibres, Technical University of Lodz, Poland

Fine structure characterization of Polyamide 6 fibres through differential solubility test - 204J. Gacen; D. Cayuela; J. Maillo; A.Naik; M. Tzvetkova, Intexter - UPC Department of Textileand Paper Engineering, Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya, Spain

Physical and mechanical properties of the Mongolian cashmere fiber - S. Ukhnaa, J-Y. 210Drean, Laboratoire de Physique et Mecanique Textiles, Universite de Haute-Alsace, MulhouseCedex, France

Quality properties of Aegean, Antalya and Southeastern Anatolia cottons of Turkey - S. 214Canoglu, S.M. Yiikseloglu, Faculty of Technical Education, Textile Department, MarmaraUniversity, Istanbul, Turkey

Parallel Session 2/3

Innovative Techniques for Yarn and Fabric ManufacturingShedding without dynamic warp loading. The possibility of forming a new woven 222structure - J. Szosland, Department of Textile Architecture, Technical University of Lodz,Poland

The influence of the interlacement degree of woven fabrics on the ultraviolet protection 229factor - J. Neves; M. Neves, University of Minho, Textile Department, PortugalWeavability of chenille yarns on air-jet looms: state of the art - .De Clerck1,P.Puissant 2, 237L.Van Langenhove \ department of Textiles, Ghent University, Gent, 2Picanol R&D Centre,leper, BelgiumStructural mechanics of weft knitted fabrics for technical applications - M. De Araujo1, R. 244Fangueiro1 and H. Hong2, 1 University of Minho, Guimaraes, Portugal, 2Dong Hua TextileUniversity, Xanghay, ChinaThe influence of viscosity of threads for input tension during knitting process - R. 252Ciukas, D. Sadauskas, Department of Textile Technology, Kaunas University of Technology,Kaunas, Lithuania

3rd Autex ConferenceJune 2003

Paratief Session 3 3 ' - „;Innovative Techniques for Textile Finishing and Care

Dyeing of microfibres and conventional fibres of Polyamide 6.6 with acid and disperse 257dyes - C.Kacem1'2, A.Lallam1, F.Sakli2, 1Laboratorie de Physique et Mecanique Textiles,ENSITM, Mulhouse Cedex France, 2Unite de Recherche Textiles, ISET, Tunisia

Diffusion of disperse dyes into supermicrofibres - K.H. Park, V. Koncar, GEMTEX/ENSAIT, 266France

The effects of pretreatment processes on printing of viscose fabrics with reactive 272dyestuffs - 1 . Tarakcioglu, A. OzgCiney, A. Ozerdem, E. Bilgin, Department Textile Engineering,Ege University, Izmir, Turkey

Surfactant dye complex formation in the dyebath - E.Rybicki1, E.Machnikowska-Kieres2, 279J.Bemska1, technical University of Lodz, 2Textile Research Institute of Lodz, Poland

ParaHsl Session 4/1 . .Medical Textiles

The use of textile electrodes in a hospital environment - L. Van Langenhove1, C. Hertleer1, 286M.Catrysse2, R. Puers2, H. van Egmond3, D. Matthys3 ,1Ghent University, Department ofTextiles, 2K.U.Leuven, ESAT-MICAS, 3Ghent University, Departments of Paediatrics andGenetics, UZ Gent, Belgium

Design of nonwoven scaffold structures for tissue engineering of the anterior cruciate 291ligament - S.L. Edwards1, S.J.Russell1, E.lngham2, J.B. Mathews2, W. Mitchell2, departmentof Textile Industries, 2School of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, University of Leeds,Leeds, UK

Structural and morphological aspects of artificial textile limbs blood vessels - 300V.Kantsevich1, A.Auzans2, L.Feldmane3, 1Riga Technical University, 2Latvian AgriculturalUniversity, 3P.Stradina University Hospital, Latvia

Innovative Techniques for Yarn and Fabric ManufacturingTemperature impact to properties of electrostatically charged fibrous filters - J. Hruza, 303Technical University of Liberec, Department of Nonwovens, Czech Republic

Recycled wool based non-woven material for sorption of acid dyes - M. Radetic1, D. 309Jocic1, P. Jovancid1, Z. Lj. Petrovic2, H.Thomas3, 1Textile Engineering Department, Faculty ofTechnology and Metallurgy, University of Belgrade, Yugoslavia, institute of Physics, Zemun,Serbia and Montenegro, 3Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut an der RWTH Aachen, Germany

The effect of a technique of making nonwoven fabric precursor on the magnitude of 315electrical resistance of carbon nonwovens - R.Cisto1, I. Krucihska1, K. Babe*2, M.Koszewska3,1 Department of Textile Metrology, Technical University of Lodz, institute ofChemical Technology of Wood, Academy of Agriculture, Poznah, 3Doctoral Studies Centre,Faculty of Textile Engineering and Marketing, Technical University of Lodz, Poland

June 2003

Parallel Session 4/2Medical Textiles

New generation of vascular protheses accomplished through weaving technologies - A. 323Ene, C. Mihai, The National Research-Development Institute for Textile and Leather,Department of Medical Articles, Bucharest, RomaniaCompressive solid - knitted wares for treatment of varicose veins. Structure and 330technology - B. Oks, I. Lyashenko, Technical University Riga, Institute of Textile & ClothingTechnology, Riga, LatviaOptimisation of textile applications in hospitals - Lucas, J.M.1, Miguel, R.A.L.1, Gomes, 336J.F.2, Ribeiro, A.2, Mendes, C.1, 1 University of Beira Interior, Textile Department, 2HospitalCentre Cova da Beira, Covilha, Portugal

Parallel Session 6/1Mathematical Modelling and Simulation

Numerical simulation of extension and shear deformation of textile materials - S. Jevsnik, 341J. Gersak, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Department of Textiles, Institute of Textile andGarment Manufacture Processes, Maribor, SloveniaInfluence of shear rigidity on the behaviour and project of wool and blended fabrics - 348Miguel, R. A. L.1, Lucas, J. M.1, Manich, A. M.2, 1Universidade da Beira Interior, Departamentode Ciencia e Tecnologia Texteis, Portugal, 2Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cientificas,Research & Development Center, Barcelona, SpainCompressive textiles mechanical behavior - R. Kovar, M.HIavova, Faculty of Textile 354Engineering, Technical University of Liberec, Liberec,Czech RepublicWoven fabric macroporosity properties planning - P. Dobnik Dubrovski, M. Brezocnik, 359Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, University of Maribor, Slovenia

Modern Testing Methods and Quality ControlOlfactory properties of fabrics : assessment by sensory panel vs. electronic nose - 365Martin W. King1'2 , Roberta K. York3 , Q.Zhang4, 1College of Textiles, North Carolina StateUniversity, Raleigh, NC, USA,2 Institut des biomateriaux du Quebec, Universite Laval, Quebec,Canada, Canadian Food Inspection Agency, Winnipeg, Canada, 4 Biosystems Engineering,University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, CanadaAir permeability of textile fabrics - M. Havrdova, Department of Textile Evaluation, Technical 371University of Liberec, Czech RepublicInfluence of porosity on capillary flow in textiles - M. Lewandowski, A. Perwuelz, P. 378Vroman, Gemtex/Ensait, FranceThe study of thermal properties of linen/PES fabrics using thermovision methods - M. 385Michalak1, M. Zimniewska2 ,1.Kruciiiska1, B. Wie_cek3,1Faculty of Engineering and Marketing ofTextiles, 3Faculty of Electrical and Electrinic Engineeringjechnical University of Lodz, Lodz,2lnstitute of Natural Fibres, Poznati, Poland

3rd Autex ConferenceJune 2003

Parallel Session 4/3Medical Textiles

Human, protective cloths and surgical drapes as a source of particles in an operating 394theatre - Nurmi, S.1, Lintukorpi, A.2, Saamanen, A.1, Luoma, T.1, Soininen,M.1,Suikkanen, V-P.1, 1VTT, Tampere, Finland, 2Uudenmaan Sairaalapesula Oy, Finland

Analysis of the surgical gowns properties before and after irradiation: selection of the 400pertinent properties - M. J. Abreu1, M. E. Cabeco Silva1, L. Schacher2, D. Adolphe2,Department of Textile Engineering, Universidade do Minho, Guimaraes, Portugal, 2Ecole

Nationale Superieure des Industries Textiles de Mulhouse, Universite d'Haute Alsace, France

The barrier effect of woven fabrics used for surgical gowns - D.Aibibu, B. Lehmann, P. 406Offermann, Dresden University of Technology, Institute of Textile and Clothing Technology,Germany

Physiological properties in aspect of used yarns and structures - E.Mielicka, 414T.Massalska-Lipiriska, T.Manduk-Chuchla, G.Wykin-Orlikowska, Institute of KnittingTechniques and Technologies TRICOTEXTIL, Lodz, Poland

Mathematical Modelling and SimulationResearch on modelling nonwoven fiberswebs sound absorption properties - S. Vasile1 , 420D. Botteldooren2, L. Van Langenhove1,1Textile Dapartment, 2IT Department.Gent University,Gent, Belgium

The influence of fabric construction on the mechanical properties of the compound 426fabric - P. Filipovic Cebasek, P. Dobnik Dubrovski, Department of Textiles, Faculty ofMechanical Engineering, University of Maribor, Slovenia

Prediction of pilling behaviour of flat weft-knitted fabrics - B.Tvarijonaviciene, R. Ciukas, 430A.Matulionyte, I.Saulyte, Department of Textile Technology, Kaunas University of Technology,Kaunas, Lithuania

Influence of structure of textile surfaces on colour rendering - A. Moussa1, D. Dupont2, D. 436Steeni, X. Zeng1, 1GEMTEX-ENSAIT, Laboratoire de Colorimetrie - ESTIT, 2ERASM-ESTIT,France

Modern Testing Methods and Quality ControlThe modelling and evaluation of electrical resistance and air and water flow in woven 443liquid filters - P. Nousiainen1, K. Jarvinen2, P. Tiainen2 , A. Puolakka1, institute of FibreMaterials Science, Tampere University of Technology, 2Tamfelt Corp., Tampere, Finland

Dielectric spectroscopy study of superabsorbent polymers cross-linking system at sol- 456gel transition - 1 P. Hana,2 L. Martinova, 2 P.Burian, department of Physics, department ofNonwovens.Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic

Theoretical approach of cotton stickiness measurement - A. Amara, LPMT, Mulhouse, 461France

3rd Autex ConferenceJune 2003

FRIDAY, JUNE 27, 2003 TEX E&R

Parallel Session 7Management Solution for Textile and Apparel Industry

Process oriented analysis - A. W. Marin, S.Creux, U.Meyer, Institute for Manufacturing 462Automation, Zurich, Switzerland

The new methodological application for production of technical documentation through 468computer applying in the process of clothes producing - D. Ujevic1,. D. Rogale1, I.Karabegovic , 1Faculty of Textile Technology. University of Zagreb, Croatia, 2Faculty ofTechnical Engineering, University of Bihac, Bosnia and Herzegovina

East European network of marketplaces for textile and apparel industry - M. Scarlat1, C. 475Rusu2, M. Verga3, 1Faculty of Textiles and Leather Engineering, 2Centre for ContinuingEducation and Training, Gh. Asachi Technical University, lasi, Romania, 3ltalianModa.com,Como, Italy

The network of textile and clothing associations of CEECs - R. Gebhardt, R. Naumann, 482Sachsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V., Chemnitz, Germany

Consideration concerning the assessment of the elements which exercise an influence 487upon the quality of management at higher education level - A. B. Murgu1, C. Rusu2,

Tg. Mures, Textile Management Department, Technical1Dimitrie Cantemir University,University of lasi, Romania

Textile education - production processes of staple fibre yarns - B. Lehmann, Dresden 492University of Technology, Institute of Textile and Clothing Technology, Germany

Textile DesigningInnovation in textile design - N. Starszakowna, Research Development, The London 497Institute, London, UK

Metadata for decorative designs: Application of MPEG-7 in automatic design 502interpretation - P.Bernard1, H. Derumeaux1, M.Huiskes2, E. Pauwels2, P. Vandenborre1, S.Sette3, L. Van Langenhove3, 1Sophis Systems, NV, Belgium, 2Centre for Mathematics andComputer Science (CWI), Amsterdam, The Netherlands, Dept of Textiles, Ghent University,Belgium

High quality color reproduction on Jacquard silk textile from digital color images - K. 507Osaki, International Christian University, Department of Natural Sciences, Tokyo, Japan

Sleeve design in high performance clothing - optimising style and dynamic comfort - C. 513Liu, R.Kennon, Department of Textiles, UMIST, UK

Influence of dimensional stability and mechanical properties of knitted fabric on 519knitwear designe - M. Kraba, Z.Stjepanovic, J.Gersak, University of Maribor, Faculty ofMechanical Engineering, Department of Textiles, Institute of Textile and GarmentManufacturing, Slovenia

Designing of fancy yarns. To produce better chenille yarns - we can work it out - 526K.Grabowska, Technical University of Lodz, Department of Textile Architecture, Poland

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