Your Introduction to Biotec Facial Electric Technology

Elemis Essentials (V8) Page 1 of 29

Elemis Essentials

Your Introduction to Biotec Facial Electric Technology

• Introduction

• Core Knowledge – Essentials:

• Skin structure

• Skin Diagnosis

• Skin types

• Different skins and ageing

• Electrical Facial Theory & 5 Electrical Facial Technologies:

• Electrical theory

• Ultrasonic Peeling

• Micro current

• Galvanic

• Oxygen therapy

• Colour Therapy


Introduction

The information provided within this manual is in line with British National Occupational Standards

for the technologies featured.

This will introduce and enhance your hands on technologies. Facial Electrical treatments are

specialist facials designed to Improve and maintain the client’s skin condition. The therapist must

have a deep understanding of the structure of the skin, skin types and the benefits and effects of

each electrotherapy service. Treatment procedures, hygiene and safety precautions must be

followed to ensure safe effective results.

The techniques and machines are incorporated into the basic facial routine or can work individually.

It is usual when using electrical treatments to encourage the client to have a course of treatments in

order to achieve the desired skin improvements. Manufactures instructions must be followed for

each machine as intensity and strength may vary however the type of current used will be the same.

For the purposes of this we will look at the 5 main technologies that combine to deliver a premium

treatment.

General Benefits of Electrical facials

• Deep powerful cleaning

• Enhanced exfoliation and skin resurfacing

• Improvement in texture and skin tone

• Hydration and increased cellular activity

• Firming and Muscle Toning

• Anti‐Aging and reduction in surface lines and wrinkles

• Improvement in overall appearance

• Relaxation and Education for client on how to continue to care for their skin at home

Biotec

Galvanic

Ultrasonicpeel

LED Light Therapy

OxygenInfusion

Microcurrent


Core Knowledge Topics: Essentials

The skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body at around 1.8m2 and weighing in on average 11 kilos, that’s

over 22lbs almost 1 ½ stones! It is one of the main excretory organs, it plays an important part in

regulating body temperature and protecting from invading pathogens (harmful bacteria). It does this

by maintaining its acid mantle. The acid mantle is a combination of sweat and sebum which sits on

the surface of the skin as an acid film, or barrier which discourages growth of bacteria and fungi. The

pH of the skin is 5.5 – 5.6.

Acid Mantle

Skin varies in colour due to age, race, inherited characteristics and external factors such as climate. It

varies in thickness and texture e.g. eyelid and lip skin is thin and palms and soles are thick and

coarse. Thickness also affects the colour of the skin – thin skin tends to look pink or reddish blue due

to the colour of the blood in underlying subcutaneous tissue showing through, whereas thick skin

tends to look yellow. However colour can be affected by rashes (red), jaundice (yellow) and heart or

lung conditions (blue).

The skin is supple and elastic, enabling us to move all parts of our body freely. When swelling takes

place, e.g. mumps, the skin stretches but goes back into place without scars. However, in pregnancy

or in overweight clients scars can be left if skin is very stretched and these are commonly known as

‘stretch marks’.

With maturity and excess ultra violet, the skin loses some of its characteristic elasticity provided by a

protein substance called collagen. Sags and wrinkles appear. Skin secretes an oily substance called

sebum which helps to maintain suppleness ‐ there are more sebum‐producing (sebaceous) glands on

the scalp and face (particularly on chin, nose and forehead). Soles and palms are the only non‐sebum

producing areas.


Skin also secretes a liquid in the form of sweat which can be as a result of temperature conditions

(insensible perspiration) or due to nervousness or fear (sensible perspiration). The latter is produced

by apocrine sweat glands.

Hair grows over most of the body but is generally very fine (vellus hair).

Arector pili muscles connected to hair follicles contract under stimulus causing hairs to stand on end.

Functions of the Skin

1. Sensation ‐ The skin contains nerve endings which make us aware of our surroundings. They

act as a warning system indicating heat, cold, pain, pressure and other external factors.

2. Heat Regulation ‐ Through dilation (expansion) of superficial blood capillaries, surface heat

is lost and body temperature reduced. This combined with perspiration which cools on the

skin’s surface, reduces discomfort. To retain heat, blood vessels constrict (contract) which

slows the blood, giving it a blue appearance due to the loss of oxygen. Arector pili muscles

cause upstanding hair to trap air close to the surface to keep heat in.

3. Absorption ‐ The hair follicle, the sebaceous gland opening and the skin itself are capable of absorption as is the sweat duct to a lesser degree. Penetration is affected by the health and

condition of the skin.

4. Protection ‐ The stratum corneum protects the body against its environment. The structure,

rate of replacement and physical repair properties of the outer layer protect against

bacterial invasion and minor injury. The skin is waterproof and contains body fluid whilst

preventing entry of large quantities of fluid through the epidermis.

5. Excretion ‐Sweat is eliminated from the skin as an aid to heat regulation.

6. Secretion ‐Sebaceous secretion (sebum) and perspiration help keep the skin supple and

intact. They have a bacterial and fungicidal effect.

7. Vitamin D ‐The skin uses sunlight to produce Vitamin D.

A good way to remember the first 6 is by the acronym

S H A P E S


The Structure of the Skin The skin is composed of:‐

A superficial layer of stratified epithelium known as the epidermis

A lower layer of firmer connective tissue known as the dermis

Structure of the Skin There are 3 main layers of the skin

The Epidermis

The Dermis

The Subcutaneous or adipose layer The epidermis The epidermis represents a continual process of cell renewal within the basal layer with new plump cells gradually flattening and breaking down as they make their way up to the surface where they are shed. This process is known as keratinisation due to the presence of a protein called keratin (from the Greek Keros meaning horn). As the outermost skin layer, the epidermis forms the actual protective covering against environmental influences. Its thickness averages 0.1 mm. On the face it is only 0.02 mm, while on the soles of the feet between 1 and 5 mm.

Stratum basale

Stratum lucidum

Subcutaneous layer

Stratum granulosum

Stratum spinosum


Secretions ensure skin moisture and oiliness, and maintain the acid mantle or hydrolipid film. The epidermis itself has no blood vessels, so the nutrients are supplied through the fine blood vessels in the dermal papillae. The epidermis is differentiated into five layers:

1. Stratum corneum ‐ Horny layer – is the uppermost layer of the epidermis. This forms the permeability barrier, which is the skin's true barrier against exogeneous factors.

2. Stratum lucidum ‐ Clear layer ‐ is also called the clear layer as it is highly transparent.

3. Stratum granulosum ‐ Granular layer ‐ this is where granules form, the beginning of cornification, or keratinisation, of the keratinocytes begins.

4. Stratum spinosum ‐ Prickle‐cell layer ‐ In it are, visible for the first time, the keratinosomes, membrane‐bounded vacuoles. They contain the precursors of the epidermal lipids in the form of disk‐like membranes.

5. Stratum basale ‐ Basal layer ‐ is the lowest layer of the epidermis. The basal cells lie directly on the basal membrane that forms a definite border between the dermis and epidermis. The basal cells acting as mother‐cells, by cell division, provide for the continuous regeneration of the skin. The daughter‐cells are slowly driven, by the active cell division, into the outer lying layers where they undergo various development stages. In the basal layer are also found the melanocytes, which are the pigment producing cells

Beneath the Epidermis lies - The Dermis This is composed of white fibrous tissue interlaced with yellow elastic fibres. It contains blood vessels, nerves, lymphatics, tactile corpuscles and hair follicles. It is thicker in men and thicker on the soles of the feet and palms. It has two layers

o the papillary layer and beneath that o the reticular layer

Here, we will find 3 types of Nerves

Free nerve endings – pain

Meisseners Corpuscles – to detect touch and sensing stroking

Pacinian Corpuscles – to detect vibration and pressure As well as.

Blood and lymph vessels

Arector Pili Muscle

Sebaceous Gland – secrete sebum, fatty – the skins natural moisturizer. Mixes with water to form the skins acid mantle

2 types of sweat glands –

Eccrine – all over the body – water salt and toxins

Apocrine – armpits, nipples and groin. Controlled by hormones and secrete a more milky substance. Body odour and pheromones (chemical sexual signals)


The Subcutaneous Layer

Larger blood vessels

Muscle

Fat cells – adipose tissue ‐ This is a type of loose connective tissue containing cells which are specifically adapted to store fat.

Adipose tissue is found under the skin and around organs. It acts as a reserve of food and as it is a poor conductor of heat, helps to maintain body temperature by preventing heat loss. The distribution of the fat layer under the skin varies according to sex, age and lifestyle.

Skin Diagnosis Diagnosis The main factors to consider are:

Age

Pigmentation

Skin imperfections

Skin balance (oils and moisture)

Skin temperature

Acid/alkaline level Age Softening of the skin and loss of muscle tone combine to cause crepey loose skin and etched lines where familiar expressions are constantly repeated. Correct treatment and home care can considerably delay signs of ageing. Pigmentation Increased colour caused by dilated capillaries can indicate sensitivity. Even textured but discoloured skin may be due to a physical condition such as pregnancy, the contraceptive pill or over exposure to the sun, which, if patchy, could require corrective make‐up but can also be due to ageing. Sallow skins are often rather coarse and heavy due to the slowing down of the basal layer and therefore slower cell renewal and can be treated effectively with massage. Some sallow conditions are combined with excessive oil secretion with pustular infections of the follicle present (acne) for which medical approval should be sought before treatment. Skin Imperfections Dilated capillaries, freckles (ephelides) and vitiligo (partial loss of pigmentation) should be treated with caution as reactions can be different in the areas of differing pigmentation. The therapist should recommend medical advice if the client is anxious about fibrous malformations such as skin tags, warts and moles. Skin Texture In a young skin the normal pattern of sebaceous secretion is over productive, causing dilated pores and giving a thickened, shiny appearance, due to the build‐up of the epidermal cells caused by the slowing down of cellular growth in the basal layer. In fine textured older skin the slower rate of sebaceous secretion contributes to the ageing process but regular massage stimulates the secretion level, showing a marked improvement. In the middle years skin is often balanced but will need regular care to keep it this way.


Skin Moisture Skin lacking in moisture is often referred to as a dry skin easily recognised by no apparent pores and with superficial wrinkles. However, it may have normal sebaceous secretion but suffer from tightness die to loss of surface moisture. The hydric balance is maintained by the amount of water in the subcutaneous tissue and the body in general dieting, over exposure to the elements or neglect can affect the water reserve contained in the lymph circulation between the cells and massage and treatment preparations will help enormously. Skin Temperature Skin controls body temperature through vaso‐dilation and constriction of the surface capillaries. If the epidermal layer overlaying the capillaries is fine, dilation can be easily seen. On thicker skins, body temperature would have to be increased considerably for a reaction to be evident. In these cases manual massage will only have a moderate effect on skin temperature. Acid/Alkaline Balance The pH value of healthy skin varies between 5 and 5.6 which is acid compared to a neutral pH of 7. The secretions resulting from the sebaceous and sweat glands form the acid mantle. The mantle protects against bacteria and micro‐organisms in the external environment which are characterised by an alkaline pH. A decrease in acidity of the skin results in an unhealthy appearance with uneven texture. It can therefore be seen that maintenance of the correct pH through the use of external products is of enormous value.


Skin Types There are 5 main skin types

Normal

Dry

Oily

Combination

Sensitive Normal Skin Normal skin is balanced, clear, soft and smooth and without any blemishes, greasy or flaky areas. It appears fine and even in texture with an even tone and colour. The surface has a supple appearance which is due to the circulation which mirrors good health. This skin type is becoming increasing rare owing to pollution and congestion. Dry Skin The epidermis is thinner than that of a normal skin and so looks more transparent (It is thought that almost 80% of women have this skin type). Dry skin is fine‐pored skin which looks dull. It has a slightly sallow tone and also is easily irritated. There are often wrinkles and fine lines around the mouth, neck and eyes. The surface is often powdery and it will have a tendency to sensitivity. Within this category are a further 2 divisions, skin lacking in water is known as dehydrated and where low sebaceous activity is present, it is lipid dry. Oily Skin This is a thicker looking skin, with a coarser, uneven texture and enlarged pores. Sebaceous secretions are heavier around the nose, chin and forehead and these areas are also prone to comedones (blackheads), papules and pustules (pimples). There is often a sheen over the skin which would show if blotted with a tissue. Combination Skin This is a combination of dry and oily skin, the oily section often referred to as the T‐zone, which are the forehead, nose and chin. It is fairly common and can vary according to hormonal factors such as menstruation. Sensitive Skin Sensitive skin is seen in many people and is the most fragile kind of skin type. It may appear very fine and delicate, however it will redden very quickly when stimulated either externally, e.g. by temperature, or internally, e.g. by hot foods, alcohol. This skin may also be prone to allergies. Sensitive skin can also become ‘couperose’ – a condition that is caused by a weakness in the capillary vessels and characterized by a localized reddening of the skin. Usually, capillaries expand to receive a sudden rush of blood to the skin and then they subside and return to the normal state, but with this condition, they do not contract leading to dilated capillaries which have lingering blood cells. This would make them more defined and also appear to be red on the surface of the skin. The structural change that happens during ageing could also result in couperose skin.


Different Skins Throughout your career you will come across many different skins, and while there are no differences in the functions of the skin, the amount of melanin can vary considerably giving the different races distinguishing colouring. There are 2 forms of pigment –

eumelanin ‐ which is found in black and brown skin

phaeomelanin – which is found in lighter skins African and Caribbean This ranges from dark tone to almost black and has the most melanin which absorbs ultra violet (UV) light, and becomes darker when exposed to UV light. Care must be taken with darker skins as scars can form easily as blemishes heal, especially if they have not been treated with care. These scars have a risk of becoming ‘keloid’ scars, that is when the skin thickens around the site of the scar causing it to become raised. Uneven patches of darker skin – or hyperpigmentation – can also appear with exposure to sunlight, particularly after inflammation like acne vulgaris Asian Here the skin is light to dark with yellow undertones owing to increased melanin. We will find a disposition for hyperpigmentation, and again a tendency to scar following inflammatory conditions. Women are prone to superfluous facial hair and both sexes can suffer Dermatosis papulosa nigra. Oriental Again there is a high degree of melanin which as we have already seen, can result in hyperpigmentation following inflammation from skin conditions and blemishes, and has tendency to scar easily. Women do not usually suffer facial superfluous fair and eh skin is often very smooth. Caucasian Here we can see skin tones that range from ivory to golden beige and olive. The fair skins tend to be thin, reactive and susceptible to sun damage, burning easily and will become red when irritated. This is because the skin colour is pink, with less melanin than any other race, so sun damage can result in uneven skin colour and the formation of freckles or ephelides. Beige to olive skin is slightly thicker in texture and is likely to be slightly more oily or suffer from blackheads and acne. This skin can manage longer periods of sun exposure without burning, but are likely to scar after cuts or other skin injuries. Mature Skin and Ageing In this case, the skin looks withered, a condition caused primarily by a deficiency in nutritional components and reducing hormones. The skin appears looser and thinner, elastic fibres degenerate due to water loss while fat tissue reduces in thickness, causing ageing and a breakdown in the skin’s elasticity. There is a dramatic reduction in oil production, thus causing dryness and wrinkles appear as a result of the weakening of the collagen and elastin fibres. There are 3 types of ageing

Chronological Ageing

Intrinsic Ageing

Extrinsic Ageing


Chronological ageing is “the ticking of the clock”, passing of days, weeks, months and years. No one can prevent this, although many wish they could! Intrinsic Ageing describes the changes that occur at tissue level as the days and months roll by, that occur naturally, that is not as a result of disease or external factors. Extrinsic Ageing is when the tissues of the body break down as a result of persistent or repeated injury by some external stimuli. Intrinsic and extrinsic together, give a person a particular, or apparent, age and the intrinsic ageing varies enormously from person to person making it hard to judge. Skin Disorders Very few skins on close inspection are found to be perfect in texture and general appearance. Recognition of skin disorders is important as they may contra‐indicate treatment by the therapist. Whilst it is within the therapist’s competence to treat minor skin complaints, she must refer acute and chronic conditions to the clients G.P. Many imperfections can be cured or controlled with facial treatments and home care recommendations. Vitiligo – a loss of pigment or ‘hypopigmentation’ can be very distressing for someone with a dark skin, as the condition is very obvious. Currently there is no known cure, so camouflage is the only way to correct the appearance. Dermatosis papulosa nigra (DPN) is characterised by the appearance of small, benign skin lesions on the face and is extremely common, affecting up to 30% of the population – the famous actor Morgan Freeman is known for the condition although it occurs in women more than men. Another condition which may affect male clients is pseudo folliculitis. This is classed as an inflammatory disorder and occurs because the hair is coarse, and after growing out, re‐enters the skin because it is curly and so becomes ingrown. Once trapped under the skin, it becomes inflamed, irritated and result in hyperpigmentation. Allergic Skin Conditions An allergic reaction is an abnormal response to a specific substance brought about by antibodies in the blood, formed after previous exposure to the substance concerned. It may be due to ingestion, inhalation or contact with the allergen. Detecting the cause is a medical responsibility however clients with a history of allergic reaction should be treated with caution. Often what appears to be an allergic reaction may be a primary irritation caused by application of an unsuitable item. Primary irritants such as caustic preparations, highly perfumed creams and alcohol based lotions should be avoided.

For more information and images on skin, skin disorders and diseases, please refer to the recommended reading material or visit the following links

www.skincarenet.org

www.merck.com/mmhe/sec18.html


Facial Electrical Theory and Practice

Terminology, Health & Safety, Contra‐indications, Consultation, Aftercare, Contra‐Actions Electrical equipment is powered from the mains supply via a plug socket or from a battery operated unit. Mains electricity has an alternating current at 240 volts in the UK and Europe, but can vary throughout the world with the Americas averaging 120v as well as Japan. For a comprehensive table of power throughout the world, you can check online. A battery produces electricity by a chemical reaction which is a direct current.

• VOLTS ‐ A unit of electrical pressure

• AMPS ‐ The unit of electrical strength

• WATTS‐ The power or energy used by an electrical machines / equipment

• INSULATOR – A substance that resists the flow of electricity such as wood or plastic

• CONDUCTOR – A substance that allows electricity to flow through it such as metal

ALTERNATING CURRENT‐ An alternating current has a flow which continuously changes direction many times per second. This is the current that is produced by the mains electricity. If the current alternates a few times per second it is low frequency and if it alternates more than 100,000 times it is high frequency. A high frequency treatment uses this current. DIRECT CURRENT‐ Travels in one direction from positive to negative. Two electrodes are required the anode (+) and the cathode (‐). One electrode acts as the active electrode and is placed on the skin the other receives the current and completes the circuit allowing the current to flow. Galvanic, micro‐current and faradic treatments all use direct current. Electrotherapy Treatments General Health and Safety With regard to the use of any equipment that relies on electricity to power it, there are certain safety standards that must be respected to avoid electric shock or injury to yourself or your client.

Ensure equipment is installed correctly and meets electrical safety standards

Check the wiring is correct and there is no physical damage to the plugs or flexes

Test the machine before use

Make sure there are no stretched or trailing leads

Only have the machine on the top of the trolley avoid any contact with water

ALWAYS follow the manufacturer’s instructions fully

Before starting and when you finish check the settings are at 0 and the machine is off

All heads and electrodes should be sanitised

Have equipment serviced every year by a qualified electrician


There are 2 ways in which we can use electrical technology, both refined and effective.

1. When low currents are passed through the client’s body for therapeutic effect

Galvanic ‐ Iontophoresis and Desincrustation

Micro‐Current

2. When no current passes through the skin, but energy is produced to have a specific effect on the skin and tissues

Ultrasound Peel – where energy converts acoustic (sound) energy into mechanical vibration to dislodge cells creating a refined desquamation (peeling) effect.

LED Light Therapy – uses light waves to influence activity in the cells and tissues.

Oxygen infusion‐ uses powerful bursts of compressed air to infuse the skin with a combination of 95% pure oxygen and introduce high potency active ingredients into the skin.

General Contra‐indications to any electrical technology

• Circulatory disorders or heart problems • High/low blood pressure • History of thrombosis • Epilepsy • Diabetes • Dysfunction of the nervous system • Skin disorders/diseases • Undiagnosed lumps, bumps or Swellings • Botox, Facial Fillers or Implants (with 6 weeks) • Warts/moles/Bruises • Recent operations or over recent scar tissue • Migraines/headaches • Metal plates/pins/electronic implants/piercing • Highly vascular skins • Highly nervous clients • Pregnancy (cannot receive penetrating galvanic or micro current treatments)


Consultation

An in‐depth consultation is necessary to establish the client’s skincare needs and their expectations of the service. Follow the Elemis consultation procedure, recording all information including contra‐indications on the individual client record card and stored following data protection legislation. If there are any issues in relation to diabetes or general skin sensitivity,

it might be required to perform one of the following in addition to a consultation Skin Sensitivity Test When using electrical currents that pass through the skin it is necessary to conduct a skin sensitivity test which will check the client’s sensation in the area to be treated. Temperature Test – Hot or Cold ‐ Take two glass test tubes and fill one with hot water and one with cold. Apply the one at a time to the client’s skin and ask the client to tell you which is which. Sensation Test – Sharp or Blunt ‐ Take an orange stick apply the sharp point followed by the blunt covered in cotton wool. Apply both to the client whilst the view is obstructed and again ask the client to differentiate between the two. If the client cannot distinguish between the different sensations then the facial electrical treatment should not be carried out and you may recommend the client seeks medical advice to investigate

All must be recorded on the client’s record card; this will provide guidance on how to adapt or change future treatments to ensure they are safe and effective for clients. General After Care Advice Due to the deep cleansing and toning effects of electrical facial treatments it is important to advise clients on the correct home care

• Not to apply any other product to the skin for 6‐8 hours • No make‐up for at least 6‐8 hours • No heat treatments, sunbeds or sunbathing for 24 hours • No swimming or exercise for 24 hours • No sauna, steam or Jacuzzi for 24 hours • Avoid touching the skin immediately after the treatment • Continue to cleanse, tone and moisturise using recommended skincare products • Exfoliate and mask weekly according to skin type • Enjoy regular facial therapy treatments to improve health and condition of skin


Contra‐Actions

During, or after any treatment, a client may receive a Contra‐Action. Some of these will be normal

reactions, whereas others may become more serious. We will now take a look at some of these,

which may occur after any type of facial electrical treatment.

Erythema‐ This is where the skin becomes a pink/red colour and generally gives no discomfort to the

client. It may however be slightly warm to the touch. Erythema is a normal reaction, where the

blood has risen to just below the surface of the skin, bringing lots of oxygen and nutrients. If this

persists for more than a few hours, a cold compress may be applied to the area to reduce any

further redness. If symptoms persist, you should seek medical advice, and ask the client to notify the

salon of the outcome.

Swelling‐ Swelling is not a normal Contra‐Action. If you do see your clients face or lips starting to

swell, you MUST stop the treatment immediately and apply cold compresses to the area. If this does

not subside within a few minutes seek medical advice. Never alarm you client, always reassure them.

The medical specialist may require you to provide them with the ingredients of the products used, so

make sure this is to hand. Always ask the client to notify the salon of the outcome.

Healing Crisis‐ Some of your clients may experience a healing crisis during or within 24‐48 hours of

having the treatment. This is where your clients’ emotions overwhelm them, and they may start to

cry or laugh quite a lot. It can also provide them with a headache, flu like symptoms, frequent

urination and tiredness. As with all treatments, it is best to advise your client to rest if their body is

telling them to and drink plenty of water. These symptoms should subside within a few hours, but if

they are concerned they need to seek advice from a medical practitioner and always notify the

salon.

Allergic Reaction‐ Your client may experience an allergic reaction to one or more of the products you

have used, such as a cream or gel. They may also have reacted if they have come into contact with

certain types of metals or materials. Always remember as therapists we should never where any nail

enamel, as many clients are allergic to this. If your client does have a reaction, apply a damp cold

compress to the area, and double check the consultation card, to make sure that you have not

missed any allergies. If in doubt, seek medical advice and never alarm your client.

Bruising‐ A very small amount of clients, may experience bruising after a treatment. This may be

down to an underlying medical issue such as diabetes. (This should have been picked up during

consultation, and the treatment should not have gone ahead). If this does occur, apply a cold, damp

compress to the area to bring out any internal bruising, and reassure your client it should subside

within a few hours. The bruise itself may last several days. If the client does not have a medical

condition which may have caused this, the pressure may have been too firm or the technique may

have been performed incorrectly. Please follow the same steps as above on how to deal with this.

As with any contra‐action, you must make sure all client record cards and treatment plans are

updated, and any GP notes which you may have received need to be stored correctly under the Data

Protection Act.


5 Elemis Facial Electrical Technologies

Ultrasonic Peeling

This is to aid the removal of the top layer of skin cells and encourage cell

renewal.

The effects can be achieved through products like exfoliators, that contain mild

abrasives that help to slough away the rough cells as well as AHA’s that break

down the ‘glue’ that holds the cells together, allowing them to removed easily

with sponges etc.

There are alternative mechanical methods of peeling that you should be aware of, the most popular

to date is microdermabrasion.

Initially developed in the 1940’s in Italy, controlled microdermabrasion is a modern technique of

resurfacing or deeply exfoliating the skins surface and improving the skins ability to regenerate. It is

a gentle mechanical peeling process which can control specific skin conditions such as acne & reduce

scar tissue.

Ultrasonic peeling provides a far gentler and less aggressive alternative to traditional

microdermabrasion methods of skin exfoliation refining the technique and bringing the technique

into the 21st Century. Ultrasound converts Acoustic (sound) energy into mechanical vibration energy.

The ultrasonic spatula delivers highly effective Piezo‐electric energy that converts acoustic (sound)

energy into mechanical vibration energy which delivers 27,000 vibrations per second through its

quartz/ceramic head. When exited by ultrasound causes rapid vibrations ‐ drawing out impurities,

deep cleansing and gently exfoliating surface impurities and pigmentation.

These rapid vibrations push skin impurities to the skin surface and cause any dead skin cells to

become dislodged, the vibrating hand piece is then used to deep cleanse and gently exfoliate the

epidermis.

Another effect is that it helps stimulate collagen production, minimising the appearance of fine lines

and improves blood and lymphatic circulation to aid the healing process


Benefits:

• Draws out impurities

• Deep cleansing

• Gently exfoliates surface impurities and pigmentation

• Stimulates collagen production to minimise the appearance of fine lines

• Accelerate blood and lymphatic circulation to aid the healing process

Micro current

The Micro current treatment is widely used in the beauty therapy industry to aesthetically improve the skin. The current is Micro amps, the frequency of pulse is measured in cycles per second. This is a modified direct current. Micro current machinery can produce a range of waveforms, which are designed to create specific effects.

Microcurrent is the only aesthetic technology that can physically firm and tone the skin, gently re‐educating the facial muscles with small pulses of micro current. Each pulse mirrors the body's own natural current, stimulating the skin's own biological energy. Microcurrent uses a current with an intensity of less than one millionth of an amp (< 1mA) and because of its low intensity it does not cause a physical or visual contraction of the muscle, instead, micro‐current stimulation works by a process called muscle re‐education which is the process of lengthening or shortening muscles. Application and Movement You need to be able to vary your pressure and ensure that you have enough product to enable the electrodes to glide evenly over the skin, paying attention to the delicate areas around the eyes with less pressure, while applying more when working on the cheek, jowl or chin areas. When a muscle lengthens or shortens, the skin lifts and firms.

Working from the belly of the muscle outward will have a lengthening effect on muscles that have become increasingly contracted from years of making facial expressions.

Working a muscle from the origin and insertion point inward will have a shortening effect that is necessary for those muscles that have become elongated over many years of age and gravity.

Under the skin lies the muscle and bone forming the basic structure and shape of the area and it is important to know the position of the main superficial facial muscles


Frontalis

Temporalis

Corrugator

Orbicularis oculi

Nasalis

Zygomatic major

Orbicularis oris

Depressor labii

Mentalis

Muscle Name Position Action Frontalis Forehead Raises the brows

Corrugator Forehead Pulls the brows together

Orbicularis Oculi Around the eye

Closes the eyes tightly

Nasalis Nose and nostrils

Opens and closes nasal openings

Zygomatic Cheek Raises the corners of the lips when laughing

Buccinator Cheek Pull cheeks in when chewing

Masseter Cheek Raises the jaw and helps with chewing

Orbicularis Oris Around the mouth

Shapes lips for speech and kissing

Depressor Labii Surrounds lower lip

Pulls lip down and to side

Mentalis Chin Pushes up lower lip, wrinkling the skin

Sternocleidomastoid Either side of neck

Used separately, turns the head to opposite side; used together, flexes the neck

Platysma Front of neck

Pulls down the mandible and lower lip


The Waveforms A waveform is the angle that the current meets the skin, and the angle can affect the depth and feeling. There are 3 types of waveform ‐ These are known as SINE, RAMP and SQUARE. Gentle or Sine The ‘Sine’ wave is the most gentle of the three types and is generally used to improve the circulation of the skin. It gently increases and subsides with no sharp impulses. Mild or Ramp The ‘Ramp’ wave is a sudden pulse of current that is gradually reduced used for ‘unlocking’ tense muscles and especially to reduce tension and relax lines and wrinkles. The sudden pulse of current is the reason that some users see the ‘flashing’ effect, as it can stimulate the optic nerve. Sharp ‐ Square The ‘Square’ wave, like the ‘Ramp’ wave, begins with a sudden pulse. It then remains constant before switching off sharply. This has the effect of tensing and holding the muscle fibres, before releasing them increasing tone.

Effects Micro‐currents are series of tiny impulses which, passed through the body, It has three main effects:‐

• To stimulate and work the fibres of the muscles beneath the skin, causing them to tense and

relax alternately.

• To stimulate the general metabolism of the tissues of the skin, making it better able to fight the effects of the environment. An immediately visible effect of this ‘stimulation’ will be a slight reddening of the skin as the blood supply to it improves. The reddening is a normal effect and very soon subsides.

• To stimulate the sensing nerves in the skin


Facial Galvanic

The galvanic treatment is a direct current with a low voltage of a few milliamp and we use 1‐3mA in facial work, flowing in one direction between two electrodes. One electrode is maintained at a small positive charge (ANODE+) and the other at a small negative charge (CATHODE‐). The galvanic current can be applied with the appropriate products to offer two different treatments to the client:‐

• Desincrustation ‐ to deep cleanse, only to be used on excessively oily skin • Iontophoresis ‐ to introduce beneficial products into the skin ie. Collagen. An increase in

blood supply and cell metabolism, which together increase the supply of oxygen and other nutritive materials result in a better removal of waste products from the facial tissue. The slight perspiration that is set up encourages the natural elimination of impurities.

Active electrodes are in contact with the skin. They come in stainless steel roller, ball and mushroom form. The rollers are most suited to general application of the face and neck, the ball electrode for the area of the eyes, mouth and small areas where wrinkles are apparent and the mushroom electrode for desincrustation.

The Products (gels)

• Products to be used with the galvanic current are ionisable (contain ions which are an electrical charge). They can either positively (anions) or negatively charged (cations), and they determine the polarity of the active electrode.

The galvanic treatment works on the principle that like poles repel and opposite poles attract. The product selected is repelled into the skin by the active electrode which must be the same polarity of the product. Contra‐Indications

• Loss of skin sensation • Recent scar tissue • Infectious skin disorders or diseases • Broken bones • Hypersensitive skins • Heart conditions • Pacemakers


• Low blood pressure • Epilepsy* • Diabetes* • Pregnancy* • High vascular skins • Metal plates, pins, bridges or an excessive amount of fillings • Migraine sufferers • Cut and abrasions

* Only to be carried out with medical approval Ordinarily, there are different settings that can be used on other machines and the roller or electrode can be negative or positive, and the effect on the skin will vary depending on the choice. Effects at the cathode ‐ active, black, negative The cathode produces an alkali effect on the skin by bringing about a chemical reaction between sodium ions and the hydroxyl ions of water to produce sodium hydroxide which is an alkali, thus creating the following results:‐

• Breaks down the acid mantle • Relaxes the pores • Increases blood circulation • Warmth in the tissues • Saponification ‐ the emulsifying and removal of sebum • Creates a softening and drying effect on the skin • Stimulates the nerve endings • Moisture is drawn temporarily to the cathode

Effects at the anode ‐ indifferent, red, positive The anode produces an acidic effect on the skin by bringing about a chemical reaction between choric ions and hydrogen present in tap water to produce hydrochloric acid and oxygen, creating the following results:‐

• Restores the acid mantle • Tightens the pores • Warms the tissues • Soothes the nerve endings

How does the current affect the treatment? With traditional Galvanic the indifferent electrode is held by the client, this is because Galvanic current flows in a straight line from positive to negative (or vice versa ) and it is the opposite pole that completes the electrical circuit. With BIOTEC instead of the client holding the bar, one of the roller handsets is set to positive and one to negative so that it completes the electrical circuit. The handset handle is isolated from the therapist so the current is still flowing through the client from one pole to the other like traditional Galvanic.


Safety Precautions When using galvanic current there is a slight possibility of galvanic burns occurring, this is kept to a minimum if all safety precautions are adhered to and if the therapist ensures the intensity is kept to the correct amount for that client, the skin is well covered with the product and the active electrode is kept moving. It is also essential that the therapist applies the current only once the active electrodes are in contact with the skin and they should not touch together or the client may experience a shock. NOTE: The client should be advised that they may experience a slight metallic taste in the mouth and or a slight tingling sensation. If the client does not experience this type of sensation do not attempt to keep increasing the intensity as this may result in shock, always follow manufacturer’s instructions.

Oxygen Therapy

Oxygen is necessary for cell life and is usually delivered to cells via the

bloodstream. While all of the technologies discussed so far will improve

stimulate the circulation at cellular level, this delivers oxygen directly and

without invading the skin.

Oxygen Therapy uses powerful bursts of compressed air to infuse the skin with a combination of

95% pure oxygen with selected high potency actives.

The concentrated air pressure on skin tissue visibly plumps out lines, increases skin firmness and

hydration, when used in conjunction with active skincare ingredients.

The active ingredients penetrate through the natural space between the epidermal skin cells into the

deeper layers of the skin, helping plump out fine lines and increase skin firmness. The 02 infusion

helps restore elasticity, stimulates tissue repair, heals and rebalances, delivering a refreshed,

radiant, healthier‐looking skin

Benefits:

• Visibly plumps and smoothes the appearance of fine lines

• Leaves the skin feeling tighter and firmer

• Restores elasticity

• Stimulates tissue repair and healing

• Rebalances the skin

• Results in a more radiant, healthy looking skin


Colour Light Therapy

It is a completely holistic, non‐invasive, powerful therapy to encourage the

body to begin to heal itself. From a holistic point of view, there are seven

major energy centres within the body that correspond to different colours.

These are known as Chakras, and it is believed that if the energy within them

is out of balance, the person will feel ill, or unbalanced in themselves.

Crown Chakra: Purple. Crown/Top of head. Linked to the brain, nervous system & pineal

gland. Heightened spiritual awareness.

Third Eye Chakra: Indigo. Central forehead. Linked to temples, pituitary gland, and Psychic ability

Throat Chakra: Blue. Over throat. Linked to throat, neck, arms, hands, thyroid, and speech/ communication.

Heart Chakra: Green. Centre of chest. Linked to heart, circulatory system, lungs, chest, & love.

Solar Plexus: Yellow. At central base of sternum. Linked to feelings, stomach, intestines, digestion, and the seat of the emotions.

Sacral Chakra: Orange. Lower Abdomen. Linked to reproductive organs, hormones.

Root Chakra: Red. Base of spine. Linked to the spine, kidneys, legs & feet, as well as survival, and self‐ esteem.

Colour Light therapy is light therapy, where coloured lamps are used to stimulate and decongest the

skin and muscles. Different colours are used to either stimulate the circulation and lymphatic flow,

or to calm and decongest areas.

Directing coloured light towards the affected areas of the face or body can encourage physical

healing. This method is commonly used in dermatological practice, in the treatment of psoriasis, and

blue light has been shown to be effective in treating symptoms of jaundice in new‐born babies. The

light ray may cover the whole body, be aimed at the specific body part, or in some therapies, be

directed towards the corresponding chakra point.


To get a different range of effects, Biotec have introduced the Colour Therapy Applicator, utilising

LED lights. LED therapy is a non‐invasive procedure that activates skin cells with pulses of low‐level,

non‐thermal light energy. LED therapy converts light energy within the skin cells, like photosynthesis,

which takes sunlight and converts it into food energy in plants.

The History of Colour Therapy

The use of colour therapy can be traced back thousands of years, to Egypt, India and China. It’s roots

are possibly linked to Ayurveda, which is an ancient form of medicine practised in India for

thousands of years; In China, the internal organs are all associated with different colours; and the

Ancient Egyptians built solarium‐type rooms, which could be fitted with different coloured panes of

glass for the sun to shine through.

Light is a particle, and at the same time, it is a wave. It is stopped by most solids, yet can pass

through glass and plastic. It is the fastest thing in the universe. Light influences human behaviour,

and the white light all around us is made up of a spectrum of colours (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green,

Blue, Indigo, Violet). These are the colours that the human eye can see, because of the wavelengths

each of them possess.

Each colour represents a radiation of a specific wavelength, with different molecular effects (and

therefore, different colours). Colours also have different speeds and rhythms. The Colour Therapy

Applicator attempts to balance the energy and health of the human body using the colour with the

wavelength, speed and rhythm that resonates best with a particular problem or internal organ.

Here we will look at 2 different colours of light are available, and are emitted LEDs (Light Emitting

Diodes), covered by a protective glass shield. They work on the following frequencies:

Red: 640nm Blue: 470nm (All + / ‐ 5nm)

These lights are unique in their ability to produce the same specific light frequencies as lasers,

without damaging the tissues. LEDs produce a diffuse and uniform light that penetrates more

deeply than a laser. The LEDs cannot produce harmful UVA or UVB rays, or infrared radiation;

therefore, it is a totally safe treatment.

LED lights stimulate the basic energy processes in the mitochondria (the energy components) of

each cell, whose role is to utilise oxygen in the production of energy, also known as Adenosine

Triphosphate (ATP). ATP production is increased, therefore enabling the cell to absorb specific

nutrients, which ensures healthier, stronger cells. The cells then absorb and store the information

emitted by the LEDs.

Light applied in the correct wavelength & frequency stimulates intercellular communication,

resulting in cell rejuvenation. The Light Therapy rebalance provides a non‐invasive treatment using


multiple wavelengths within the visible light spectrum to generate different effects within the

tissues.

Effects & Benefits of Colour

The effects are different for each colour, and each pulse mode, but the flexibility this allows enables

the therapist to tailor‐make the treatment specific to each client’s needs.

The effects associated with each colour are as follows:

Red

Warming

Rejuvenating

Energising

Increases blood flow and cell rejuvenation.

Activates & improves the function of the immune system, lymphatic system, nervous system and vascular system.

Decreases inflammation in injured tissues.

The best light to use to perform an anti‐cellulite treatment.

Good for slimming, and eases stiffness in joints.

Empowering

Facilitates fast & positive changes

Associated with the root chakra


Effects and Benefits of Different Frequencies:

Light applied in the correct wavelength stimulates intercellular communication, resulting in cell

rejuvenation.

As with other pieces of electrotherapy equipment, the lower the Hz, the deeper the current (or in

this case, the light) will penetrate. It is possible to see, by pressing the pulse button, which pulse

phase you are in, as the light will visibly pulse/flicker; faster for a higher Hz, and slower for a lower

Hz.

When the selected colour penetrates down to the appropriate layer, that colour’s wavelength

causes a change in the cells.

When the cells change, this results in the walls of the skin's capillaries being strengthened. This leads

to improved oxygenation and detoxification of the skin. The skin’s water content (hydration) is

increased and the ability of the skin to retain that moisture improves. Increased cellular activity,

improved natural repair, and creation of healthy skin conditions also follow. Having a healthy skin

condition also allows the cells to regenerate faster and more effectively, thus contributing to a

general anti‐ageing effect.

Blue

Cooling

Calming

Relaxing

Soothing

Anti‐spasmodic

Reduces swelling

Eases insomnia

Eases hyper excitability conditions

Calms allergies and acne

Helps in the elimination of toxins.

Antiseptic, Germicidal & Antibacterial

Eases headaches & fevers

Good for Psoriasis & Eczema

Alleviates stress & tension in the jaw, neck & shoulders

Facilitates understanding

Blue light has very fine rays, which allow them to go deep within and relieve inflammation, because of their calming effect.

Normalises sebum production, giving the skin a special refinement, associated with the

throat chakra


Contraindications

As with all pieces of electrotherapy equipment caution should always be exercised. However,

although there are no absolute contraindications to colour therapy treatments, care should be taken

when using the applicator on clients with the following conditions:

• Photosensitive Epilepsy

• Migraine sufferer

• Porphyria

• Autoimmune diseases (e.g. Lupus)

• Pregnancy

• Albinism

• Clients with a tendency towards psychological disorders

• Eyes that are sensitive to phototoxicity

• Using photosensitising herbs or medication (E.g., St John’s Wort, or Bergamot essential

oil)

(Porphyria is a group of genetic disorders. When porphyrins build up in the blood, they cause rashes

that can be brought on by sunlight)

It should also be noted that if the therapist suffers with migraines, tendency towards psychological

disorders, or photosensitive epilepsy, they should avoid performing this treatment.


GLOSSARY

Dermatological terms in use Erythema ‐Redness of the skin Wheal ‐Red, raised, whitish centre, varies from a centimetre in diameter to many Centimetres Papule‐ A firm lump, containing no fluid, it may be vascular and can vary from pinhead size to half a centimetre Vesicle ‐A small elevation containing fluid Bulla ‐A large blister Pustule ‐Commences as a papule which becomes purulent. They develop at the mouths of hair follicles, are red and contain pus Comedones – Blackheads Skin disorders requiring medical attention or limited therapy Eczema Commences as an itching, red area with pinhead sized vesicles and progresses to scaly dry patches or continued vesicle formation and weeping Herpes Simplex (Cold Sore) Vesicles form around mouth and nostrils. It commences with an itchy patch of erythema, which develops into weeping vesicles if scratched Urticaria (Hives) Formation of red, itchy wheals from pinhead size to a few centimetres in size. It may be local or widespread. The condition usually corrects itself but extreme cases require medical opinion Rosacea It is associated with Seborrhoea. Nose and cheeks are most affected, giving red flushed appearance. Skins surface becomes lumpy and thickened with papules and pustules. Often confused with Acne but seldom appears before the age of 30, unlike Acne. Acne Vulgaris Skin may appear greasy, has a dull sallow colour and comedones, papules, pustules and scars are often present. Most commonly found in adolescents and may involve face, chest and should girdle. Seborrhoea is present. If secondary infection is present (pustules) medial opinion should be sought before application of treatment. Seborrhoea Caused by hyper secretion of sebum. Characterised by excess greasiness, open pores, coarse skin and comedones. It is the basis for Acne Vulgaris.


Minor Skin Blemishes ‐ Pigmentation Abnormalities ‐Requiring care but not contra‐indicated Spider Naevus ‐A central dilated blood vessel with smaller capillaries radiating from it. Port Wine Stain ‐A large area of dilated capillaries, causing a pink to dark red colour. Strawberry Mark ‐A brightly pigmented area, seen at birth or soon afterwards. Usually disappears before adult life. Pigmented Naevi ‐A light to dark brown patch from pinhead to several centimetres in size, sometimes has strong hair growth. Ephelides (Freckles) ‐Small pigmented areas which become more evident upon exposure to the sun. Lentigo ‐More distinct than freckles, slightly raised, more scattered distribution, do not react to the sun. Chloasma ‐A normally temporary pigmentation condition frequently associated with pregnancy. Desquamation during facial treatment will affect a cure. Vitiligo ‐Complete loss of colour from skin and hair, commencing as small patches which may converge to form large areas. Must be protected from ultra‐violet exposure. Skin Imperfections‐ Requiring care but not contra‐indicated Papilloma (Moles) ‐ Can be flat or raised and vary in size, colour and appearance. Skin Tags ‐ Associated with ageing, most frequently found on neck and major flexures. They are of soft, pedunculated form, being made of loose fibrous tissue. Care must be taken not to catch them causing discomfort during treatment. Dilated Capillaries ‐give a vascular appearance. Skin responds fiercely to stimulation and requires careful treatment so as not to aggravate the condition. Early stages can be arrested by cosmetic means and avoidance of ultra violet is recommended. Milia (Whiteheads)‐Caused when sebum becomes trapped in a duct with no surface opening. Most common on dry skin in the orbicularis oculi area and between brows. Regular massage will usually affect their spontaneous disappearance. Crow’s Feet ‐ Fine lines around the eyes often associated with eye strain and welling around the eyes. Dry, fine skins and those exposed to ultra violet are particularly susceptible. Formation can be delayed by reducing eye strain and application of treatments and a skin care regime. Crepy Skin ‐ Loose skin with fine crisscross lines, most evident on dry skins, caused by a reduction on subcutaneous adipose tissue. Prevention is more successful than treatment but treatment will stimulate the skin and hydrate the surface layers.

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Your Introduction to Biotec Facial Electric Technology

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