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Cellulose ISSN 0969-0239Volume 22Number 3 Cellulose (2015) 22:2095-2105DOI 10.1007/s10570-015-0596-0
Dyeing of gamma irradiated cotton usingDirect Yellow 12 and Direct Yellow 27:improvement in colour strength andfastness properties
Shahid Adeel, Muhammad Usman,Waqar Haider, Muhammad Saeed, MajidMuneer & Majid Ali
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ORIGINAL PAPER
Dyeing of gamma irradiated cotton using Direct Yellow 12and Direct Yellow 27: improvement in colour strengthand fastness properties
Shahid Adeel • Muhammad Usman •
Waqar Haider • Muhammad Saeed •
Majid Muneer • Majid Ali
Received: 24 December 2014 / Accepted: 2 March 2015 / Published online: 6 March 2015
� Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht 2015
Abstract Present study is concerned with the dyeing
behavior of gamma irradiated cotton using direct dyes.
The fabric and dye powder was exposed to absorbed
doses of Cs-137 gamma irradiator between 14 and
26 kGy. It was found that 18 kGy is the optimal
absorbed dose for tuning the surface of fabric to get
colour strength using Direct Yellow 12, whereas good
colour strength was obtained by dyeing irradiated
fabric at 70 �C for 70 min by keeping M:L of 1:30
using dyeing bath of pH 10 in the presence of 2 g/L of
table salt. While 14 kGy is the most effective absorbed
dose for Direct Yellow 27 where good colour strength
was obtained at 80 �C for 60 min keeping M:L of 1:70
in presence of 10 g/L of salt using neutral dyeing bath.
At these conditions not only leveled dyeing was
achieved but the colourfastness was also improved.
Keywords Colourfastness � Cotton � Cs-137 � Directdyes � Irradiation � Spectra flash SF 650
Introduction
Direct dyes are one of the most common classes of
dyes being used to impart colour to the cotton fabric
(Burkinshaw and Kumar 2010). In spite of relatively
low wash fastness, these dyes are popular due to low
cost, wide colour range, short dyeing time and ease of
application (Burkinshaw and Gotsopoulos 1999; Liu
et al. 2010). They are equally applicable for natural as
well as synthetic fiber but unlike reactive dyes they do
not bind to the fabric by a chemical reaction. The most
common application is on cotton fabric owning to their
wide range of shades (Bhatti et al. 2012).
Cotton is the most abundant biodegradable cellu-
lose fiber in nature (Mohsin et al. 2013). The cellulose
chains are made up of b-1, 4-D glucopyranose units
which are cross linked by 1, 4-glucodic bonds. Cotton
has a unique property of dye uptake ability through
bonding with various classes of dyes due to the
hydroxyl groups present in cellulosic structure (Wo-
jnarovits et al. 2010). Direct dyes pass into cellulose
fiber by certain functional groups when fabric is added
into dye bath (Chen et al. 2010; Zollinger 2003).
Over the years, a number of techniques have been
developed in order to increase the dye uptake and
colourfastness of fabric. These techniques include
mercerization (Thakur et al. 2014), bio polishing
(Mehmood and Liakopoulou 2010), cationization
(Guesmi et al. 2012; Haddar et al. 2014a, b), enzyme
treatment (Kan et al. 2011) ultrasonic (Kamel et al.
2005), microwave (Kale and Bhat 2011; Sinha et al.
S. Adeel (&) � M. Usman (&) � W. Haider �M. Saeed � M. Muneer � M. Ali
Department of Chemistry, Government College
University, Faisalabad 38000, Pakistan
e-mail: [email protected];
M. Usman
e-mail: [email protected]
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DOI 10.1007/s10570-015-0596-0
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2012, 2013), UV treatment (Adeel et al. 2012), plasma
treatment and grafting (Haji 2013). All these tech-
niques are used to modify the surface of fabric which,
in turn, are helpful in improving colour strength and
fastness properties. The increasing use of irradiation
in textile is due to their cost effectiveness, energy
efficiency, speed, and relative environment safety
(Ferrero and Periolatto 2011). However gamma ray
treatment has much promising effect than the others
by tuning the surface. Previous studies show that
gamma ray treatment improves the extraction of
colour from naturalmaterial and deepens the colour of
dye without affecting morphology of dye stuff.
Gamma rays are also known for improvement in
shrinking resistance, wrinkling resistance and value
addition in shades of dyed fabric at low temperature
(Ajmal et al. 2014; Bhatti et al. 2012; Kim et al. 2006;
Millington 2000; Takacs et al. 2001).
Keeping in view the advantages of gamma ray
treatment,wehave selectedDirectYellow12andDirect
Yellow 27 for its application on gamma treated fabrics.
Direct Yellow 12 has strong tinctorial strength with
reddishyellowhue. It has good levelingproperties and is
commonly known as chrysophenine. Direct Yellow 27
ismonoazodirect dyewith good light fastness (Trotman
1970). The structure of Direct Yellow 12 and Direct
Yellow 27 has been given along with CI numbers.
Direct Yellow 12 (CI 24895)
Direct Yellow 27 (CI 13950)
This economical and time effective method has
been used to improve the colourfastness and colour
strength of dye on fabric using irradiated direct dyes
which is the main aim of current study.
Materials and methods
Sample preparation and irradiation process
Direct Yellow 12 (CI 24895) and Direct Yellow 27 (CI
13950) were procured from Harris Dyes and Chemi-
cals Faisalabad, Pakistan. Plain weaved, bleached and
mercerized cotton fabric was obtained from Noor
Fatima Textile (Pvt.) Faisalabad. Both fabric and dyes
were exposed to absorbed dose of 10, 14, 18, 22 and
26 kGy using Cs-137 gamma irradiator at Nuclear
Institute for Agriculture and Biology (NIAB), Faisal-
abad, Pakistan (Khan et al. 2014).
Optimization of dyeing conditions
Various dyeing parameters i.e. temperature, time, pH,
salt concentration and material to liquor ratio of
dyeing were optimized. The effect of temperature was
studied by carrying out experiments in temperature
range of 40–80 �C with increment of 10 �C. Material
to liquor ratio was adjusted to be 1:30, 1:40, 1:50, 1:60
and 1:70 to get optimal liquor amount. Salt concen-
trations used were 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 g/L for achieving
good exhaustion. Dyeing was also performed in the pH
range of 4–10 so that the most suitable pH for dyeing
may be explored. Dyeing time was optimized by
carrying out dyeing for 40–80 min at regular time
intervals of 10 min (Burkinshaw and Salihu 2013).
Evaluation of quality characteristics of dyed fabric
Colour strength of irradiated and un-irradiated fabric
dyed with Direct Yellow 12 and Direct Yellow 27 was
studied using CIE Lab system in spectra flash SF 650
with illuminant D6510� observer at Noor Fatima (Pvt)
Faisalabad, Pakistan. The colourfastness of fabric dyed
at optimal conditions were tested through ISO standard
methods such as ISO 105 CO3 for washing, ISO 105
X12 for rubbing and ISO 105 BO2 for light were
employed to assess the effect of gamma radiations
treatment on colourfastness properties of dyed fabric.
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Results and discussion
In textile dyeing, the application of gamma ray
treatment is gaining popularity due to high treatment
speed and energy efficient tools. It has marked a
promising effect in textile dyeing by tuning the surface
for enhancing uptake and strong adhesion of direct
dyes. Figure 1a displays that 18 kGy is the optimal
absorbed dose for the improvement of fabric surface
and its affinity towards irradiated Direct Yellow 12.
Fig. 1 Effect of absorbed
dose on the colour strength
of irradiated cotton using
Direct Yellow 12 (a) andDirect Yellow 27 (b)
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Low absorbed dose did not give good colour strength,
while at high dose the fabric may either undergo
weight loss or face dislocation and degradation of
fibers (Bhatti et al. 2014; Foldvary et al. 2003; Palfi
et al. 2011). At optimal absorbed dose the high colour
strength might be due to surface modification of
mercerized fabric which causes conversion of cellu-
lose moieties into carboxylic acid that has more
affinity for dye substrate due to H-bonding and other
short range forces (Adeel et al. 2014; Takacs et al.
2001). The result obtained from spectraflash SF 650
after dyeing show low colour strength with dull
Fig. 2 Effect of
temperature on the colour
strength of irradiated cotton
using Direct Yellow 12
(a) and Direct Yellow 27 (b)
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shades. In case of Direct Yellow 27, 14 kGy was
observed to be optimal absorbed dose for getting good
colour strength (Fig. 1b). Using both irradiated dyes it
can be seen that behavior of both dyes towards
irradiated fabric is different from each other. Hence
for achieving good colour strengths with Direct
Yellow 12, 18 kGy is the optimal absorbed dose for
tuning the surface and 14 kGy is the effective dose
with Direct Yellow 27.
An increase in temperature causes rise in rate of
dyeing and dye migration from bath to fiber. High
temperature causes leveling and better penetration of
Fig. 3 Effect of dyeing
time on the colour strength
of irradiated cotton using
Direct Yellow 12 (a) andDirect Yellow 27 (b)
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dye into fiber. However too much rise in temperature
causes decrease in dye bath exhaustion as well as de-
aggregation which results into low colour strength.
Figure 2a, b shows that 70 �C is the optimum dyeing
temperature for Direct Yellow 12 whereas 80 �C is
the optimal temperature for dyeing irradiated cotton
using Direct Yellow 27 (Clark 2011b, c; Shenai
1992).
Fig. 4 Effect of pH on the
colour strength of irradiated
cotton using Direct Yellow
12 (a) and Direct Yellow 27
(b)
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Figure 3a, b reveals that dyeing for 70 min with
Direct Yellow 12 gives good colour depth while
60 min is the optimal dyeing time with Direct Yellow
27. Previously it was found that heating for short time
do not activate dye molecule to rush towards fabric
whereas, heating for long time during dyeing may
cause hydrolytic degradation of dyes (Christie 2001;
Karmakar 2007). Due to degradation, the dye
molecule cannot sorb on to the fabric and lighter
shades are observed by spectra flash. Hence, it is
Fig. 5 Effect of salt
concentration on the colour
strength of irradiated cotton
using Direct Yellow 12
(a) and Direct Yellow 27 (b)
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recommended that for achieving good tinctorial
strength, dyeing of irradiated cotton should be done
for 70 min with Direct Yellow 12 and for 60 min in
case of Direct Yellow 27.
As shown in Fig. 4a, alkaline media favors the
dyeing to achieve good colour depth in case of Direct
Yellow 12 while irradiated fabric dyed with irradiated
Direct Yellow 27 gives good colour strength at neutral
pH (Fig. 4b). Gamma ray treatment of Direct Yellow
27 has moved direct dyeing towards neutral pH. Under
acidic conditions, direct dyes may lose its affinity to
bind with fabrics. Hence dyeing is favored under
Fig. 6 Effect of material to
liquor ration (M:L) on the
colour strength of irradiated
cotton using Direct Yellow
12 (a) and Direct Yellow 27
(b)
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neutral to basic pH. Mostly dyeing with direct dyes is
carried out in neutral solution. Under alkaline condi-
tion fiber has greater negative potential because of
rising dissociation in hydroxyl group of cellulose
which causes decrease in exhaustion.
The optimal amount of salt for Direct Yellow 12 is
2 g/L and for Direct Yellow 27 is 10 g/L (Fig. 5a, b). It
is because gradual addition of salt to dye bath not only
assist dye exhaustion but also reduces the solubility of
dye. The presence of excess sodium ions counteracts
the negative surface potential of wet irradiated cotton.
However over excess of salt causes sudden aggrega-
tion of dye molecules onto modified fabric. Thus upon
washing the dye aggregates are washed off and less
colour strength is obtained. The optimal amount
modifies the structure of water around dye molecule
and surface of fiber, so it creates the influence of short
range attractive forces between fiber and dye resulting
in good colour depth (Broadbent 2001; Shore 2002).
Figure 6a, b displays that 1:30 and 1:70 are the
optimal material to liquor ratios for Direct Yellow 12
and Direct Yellow 27 respectively for dyeing of
irradiated cotton to get good tinctorial strength. The
dye bath exhaustion increases with decrease in dyeing
liquor ratio. Decrease in liquor ratio decreases the
amount of waste dye in effluent. The greater M:L ratio
causes over aggregation of dye in form of cluster on to
the irradiated fabric that causes unevenness (Clark
2011a; Rouettee 2002).
The data given in Table 1, show that gamma ray
treatment of fabric has improved light and wash
fastness characteristics. This is due to tuning of fabric
surface by gamma ray treatment which facilitates
sorption of dye molecules to greater extent resulting in
firm bonding. This interaction might depend upon the
presence of auxochromes in selected dye molecules
which make firm bonding with irradiated cotton fabric.
Exposure to light and detergent show maximum
resistance to detach.
Conclusions
Gamma ray treatment has been found as a novel
technique in textile processing. After tuning the fabric
surface at 18 kGy, it was concluded that good colour
strength and improved light fastness was achieved at
70 �C, for 70 min, keeping M: L of 1:30 and using
2 g/L of salt in the dye bath of pH 10 using Direct
Yellow 12.While using Direct Yellow 27, good colour
strength and excellent fastness properties were ob-
tained by dyeing optimum fabric (14 kGy) at 80 �C,for 60 min, keeping M: L of 1: 70 using 10 g/L of salt
at neutral medium (pH 7). Hence gamma ray treatment
has solved the major problem i-e poor or moderate
light fastness and proved as an effective tool in textile
processing.
Acknowledgments We are grateful to authorities of Nuclear
Institute for Agriculture and Biology (NIAB), Faisalabad,
Pakistan, for providing the radiation facility, and Mr. Zafar
Manger QA & QC of Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt.) Limited,
Faisalabad and Muhammad Abbas Director Harris Dyes and
Table 1 Effects of gamma
radiation on colourfastness
properties of irradiated
fabric at optimum condition
using Direct Yellow 12 and
Direct Yellow 27
Dyes used Optimum dyeing conditions Wash fastness Light fastness
Direct Yellow 12 NRP/NRC (control) 3–4 3–4
Optimum absorbed dose (RC/RP 18 kGy) 4–5 4–5
Dyeing temperature (70 �C) 4 4
Dyeing time (70 min) 4 4
Dyeing pH (10) 4 4–5
Salt conc. (2 g/L) 4–5 4–5
M:L (1:30) 4–5 4–5
Direct Yellow 27 NRP/NRC (control) 3–4 3–4
Optimum absorbed dose (RC/RP 14 kGy) 4–5 4–5
Dyeing temperature (80 �C) 4–5 4
Dyeing time (60 min) 4–5 4
Dyeing pH (7) 4 4
Salt Conc. (10 g/L) 4–5 4–5
M:L (1:70) 4–5 4–5
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Chemical (Pvt.) Limited, Faisalabad for providing the fastness
testers and spectra flash (SF650).
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