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Cellulose ISSN 0969-0239Volume 22Number 3 Cellulose (2015) 22:2095-2105DOI 10.1007/s10570-015-0596-0

Dyeing of gamma irradiated cotton usingDirect Yellow 12 and Direct Yellow 27:improvement in colour strength andfastness properties

Shahid Adeel, Muhammad Usman,Waqar Haider, Muhammad Saeed, MajidMuneer & Majid Ali

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ORIGINAL PAPER

Dyeing of gamma irradiated cotton using Direct Yellow 12and Direct Yellow 27: improvement in colour strengthand fastness properties

Shahid Adeel • Muhammad Usman •

Waqar Haider • Muhammad Saeed •

Majid Muneer • Majid Ali

Received: 24 December 2014 / Accepted: 2 March 2015 / Published online: 6 March 2015

� Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht 2015

Abstract Present study is concerned with the dyeing

behavior of gamma irradiated cotton using direct dyes.

The fabric and dye powder was exposed to absorbed

doses of Cs-137 gamma irradiator between 14 and

26 kGy. It was found that 18 kGy is the optimal

absorbed dose for tuning the surface of fabric to get

colour strength using Direct Yellow 12, whereas good

colour strength was obtained by dyeing irradiated

fabric at 70 �C for 70 min by keeping M:L of 1:30

using dyeing bath of pH 10 in the presence of 2 g/L of

table salt. While 14 kGy is the most effective absorbed

dose for Direct Yellow 27 where good colour strength

was obtained at 80 �C for 60 min keeping M:L of 1:70

in presence of 10 g/L of salt using neutral dyeing bath.

At these conditions not only leveled dyeing was

achieved but the colourfastness was also improved.

Keywords Colourfastness � Cotton � Cs-137 � Directdyes � Irradiation � Spectra flash SF 650

Introduction

Direct dyes are one of the most common classes of

dyes being used to impart colour to the cotton fabric

(Burkinshaw and Kumar 2010). In spite of relatively

low wash fastness, these dyes are popular due to low

cost, wide colour range, short dyeing time and ease of

application (Burkinshaw and Gotsopoulos 1999; Liu

et al. 2010). They are equally applicable for natural as

well as synthetic fiber but unlike reactive dyes they do

not bind to the fabric by a chemical reaction. The most

common application is on cotton fabric owning to their

wide range of shades (Bhatti et al. 2012).

Cotton is the most abundant biodegradable cellu-

lose fiber in nature (Mohsin et al. 2013). The cellulose

chains are made up of b-1, 4-D glucopyranose units

which are cross linked by 1, 4-glucodic bonds. Cotton

has a unique property of dye uptake ability through

bonding with various classes of dyes due to the

hydroxyl groups present in cellulosic structure (Wo-

jnarovits et al. 2010). Direct dyes pass into cellulose

fiber by certain functional groups when fabric is added

into dye bath (Chen et al. 2010; Zollinger 2003).

Over the years, a number of techniques have been

developed in order to increase the dye uptake and

colourfastness of fabric. These techniques include

mercerization (Thakur et al. 2014), bio polishing

(Mehmood and Liakopoulou 2010), cationization

(Guesmi et al. 2012; Haddar et al. 2014a, b), enzyme

treatment (Kan et al. 2011) ultrasonic (Kamel et al.

2005), microwave (Kale and Bhat 2011; Sinha et al.

S. Adeel (&) � M. Usman (&) � W. Haider �M. Saeed � M. Muneer � M. Ali

Department of Chemistry, Government College

University, Faisalabad 38000, Pakistan

e-mail: shahidadeel@gcuf.edu.pk;

shahidadeelchemist@gmail.com

M. Usman

e-mail: usm_ca@yahoo.com

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DOI 10.1007/s10570-015-0596-0

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2012, 2013), UV treatment (Adeel et al. 2012), plasma

treatment and grafting (Haji 2013). All these tech-

niques are used to modify the surface of fabric which,

in turn, are helpful in improving colour strength and

fastness properties. The increasing use of irradiation

in textile is due to their cost effectiveness, energy

efficiency, speed, and relative environment safety

(Ferrero and Periolatto 2011). However gamma ray

treatment has much promising effect than the others

by tuning the surface. Previous studies show that

gamma ray treatment improves the extraction of

colour from naturalmaterial and deepens the colour of

dye without affecting morphology of dye stuff.

Gamma rays are also known for improvement in

shrinking resistance, wrinkling resistance and value

addition in shades of dyed fabric at low temperature

(Ajmal et al. 2014; Bhatti et al. 2012; Kim et al. 2006;

Millington 2000; Takacs et al. 2001).

Keeping in view the advantages of gamma ray

treatment,wehave selectedDirectYellow12andDirect

Yellow 27 for its application on gamma treated fabrics.

Direct Yellow 12 has strong tinctorial strength with

reddishyellowhue. It has good levelingproperties and is

commonly known as chrysophenine. Direct Yellow 27

ismonoazodirect dyewith good light fastness (Trotman

1970). The structure of Direct Yellow 12 and Direct

Yellow 27 has been given along with CI numbers.

Direct Yellow 12 (CI 24895)

Direct Yellow 27 (CI 13950)

This economical and time effective method has

been used to improve the colourfastness and colour

strength of dye on fabric using irradiated direct dyes

which is the main aim of current study.

Materials and methods

Sample preparation and irradiation process

Direct Yellow 12 (CI 24895) and Direct Yellow 27 (CI

13950) were procured from Harris Dyes and Chemi-

cals Faisalabad, Pakistan. Plain weaved, bleached and

mercerized cotton fabric was obtained from Noor

Fatima Textile (Pvt.) Faisalabad. Both fabric and dyes

were exposed to absorbed dose of 10, 14, 18, 22 and

26 kGy using Cs-137 gamma irradiator at Nuclear

Institute for Agriculture and Biology (NIAB), Faisal-

abad, Pakistan (Khan et al. 2014).

Optimization of dyeing conditions

Various dyeing parameters i.e. temperature, time, pH,

salt concentration and material to liquor ratio of

dyeing were optimized. The effect of temperature was

studied by carrying out experiments in temperature

range of 40–80 �C with increment of 10 �C. Material

to liquor ratio was adjusted to be 1:30, 1:40, 1:50, 1:60

and 1:70 to get optimal liquor amount. Salt concen-

trations used were 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 g/L for achieving

good exhaustion. Dyeing was also performed in the pH

range of 4–10 so that the most suitable pH for dyeing

may be explored. Dyeing time was optimized by

carrying out dyeing for 40–80 min at regular time

intervals of 10 min (Burkinshaw and Salihu 2013).

Evaluation of quality characteristics of dyed fabric

Colour strength of irradiated and un-irradiated fabric

dyed with Direct Yellow 12 and Direct Yellow 27 was

studied using CIE Lab system in spectra flash SF 650

with illuminant D6510� observer at Noor Fatima (Pvt)

Faisalabad, Pakistan. The colourfastness of fabric dyed

at optimal conditions were tested through ISO standard

methods such as ISO 105 CO3 for washing, ISO 105

X12 for rubbing and ISO 105 BO2 for light were

employed to assess the effect of gamma radiations

treatment on colourfastness properties of dyed fabric.

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Results and discussion

In textile dyeing, the application of gamma ray

treatment is gaining popularity due to high treatment

speed and energy efficient tools. It has marked a

promising effect in textile dyeing by tuning the surface

for enhancing uptake and strong adhesion of direct

dyes. Figure 1a displays that 18 kGy is the optimal

absorbed dose for the improvement of fabric surface

and its affinity towards irradiated Direct Yellow 12.

Fig. 1 Effect of absorbed

dose on the colour strength

of irradiated cotton using

Direct Yellow 12 (a) andDirect Yellow 27 (b)

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Low absorbed dose did not give good colour strength,

while at high dose the fabric may either undergo

weight loss or face dislocation and degradation of

fibers (Bhatti et al. 2014; Foldvary et al. 2003; Palfi

et al. 2011). At optimal absorbed dose the high colour

strength might be due to surface modification of

mercerized fabric which causes conversion of cellu-

lose moieties into carboxylic acid that has more

affinity for dye substrate due to H-bonding and other

short range forces (Adeel et al. 2014; Takacs et al.

2001). The result obtained from spectraflash SF 650

after dyeing show low colour strength with dull

Fig. 2 Effect of

temperature on the colour

strength of irradiated cotton

using Direct Yellow 12

(a) and Direct Yellow 27 (b)

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shades. In case of Direct Yellow 27, 14 kGy was

observed to be optimal absorbed dose for getting good

colour strength (Fig. 1b). Using both irradiated dyes it

can be seen that behavior of both dyes towards

irradiated fabric is different from each other. Hence

for achieving good colour strengths with Direct

Yellow 12, 18 kGy is the optimal absorbed dose for

tuning the surface and 14 kGy is the effective dose

with Direct Yellow 27.

An increase in temperature causes rise in rate of

dyeing and dye migration from bath to fiber. High

temperature causes leveling and better penetration of

Fig. 3 Effect of dyeing

time on the colour strength

of irradiated cotton using

Direct Yellow 12 (a) andDirect Yellow 27 (b)

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dye into fiber. However too much rise in temperature

causes decrease in dye bath exhaustion as well as de-

aggregation which results into low colour strength.

Figure 2a, b shows that 70 �C is the optimum dyeing

temperature for Direct Yellow 12 whereas 80 �C is

the optimal temperature for dyeing irradiated cotton

using Direct Yellow 27 (Clark 2011b, c; Shenai

1992).

Fig. 4 Effect of pH on the

colour strength of irradiated

cotton using Direct Yellow

12 (a) and Direct Yellow 27

(b)

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Figure 3a, b reveals that dyeing for 70 min with

Direct Yellow 12 gives good colour depth while

60 min is the optimal dyeing time with Direct Yellow

27. Previously it was found that heating for short time

do not activate dye molecule to rush towards fabric

whereas, heating for long time during dyeing may

cause hydrolytic degradation of dyes (Christie 2001;

Karmakar 2007). Due to degradation, the dye

molecule cannot sorb on to the fabric and lighter

shades are observed by spectra flash. Hence, it is

Fig. 5 Effect of salt

concentration on the colour

strength of irradiated cotton

using Direct Yellow 12

(a) and Direct Yellow 27 (b)

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recommended that for achieving good tinctorial

strength, dyeing of irradiated cotton should be done

for 70 min with Direct Yellow 12 and for 60 min in

case of Direct Yellow 27.

As shown in Fig. 4a, alkaline media favors the

dyeing to achieve good colour depth in case of Direct

Yellow 12 while irradiated fabric dyed with irradiated

Direct Yellow 27 gives good colour strength at neutral

pH (Fig. 4b). Gamma ray treatment of Direct Yellow

27 has moved direct dyeing towards neutral pH. Under

acidic conditions, direct dyes may lose its affinity to

bind with fabrics. Hence dyeing is favored under

Fig. 6 Effect of material to

liquor ration (M:L) on the

colour strength of irradiated

cotton using Direct Yellow

12 (a) and Direct Yellow 27

(b)

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neutral to basic pH. Mostly dyeing with direct dyes is

carried out in neutral solution. Under alkaline condi-

tion fiber has greater negative potential because of

rising dissociation in hydroxyl group of cellulose

which causes decrease in exhaustion.

The optimal amount of salt for Direct Yellow 12 is

2 g/L and for Direct Yellow 27 is 10 g/L (Fig. 5a, b). It

is because gradual addition of salt to dye bath not only

assist dye exhaustion but also reduces the solubility of

dye. The presence of excess sodium ions counteracts

the negative surface potential of wet irradiated cotton.

However over excess of salt causes sudden aggrega-

tion of dye molecules onto modified fabric. Thus upon

washing the dye aggregates are washed off and less

colour strength is obtained. The optimal amount

modifies the structure of water around dye molecule

and surface of fiber, so it creates the influence of short

range attractive forces between fiber and dye resulting

in good colour depth (Broadbent 2001; Shore 2002).

Figure 6a, b displays that 1:30 and 1:70 are the

optimal material to liquor ratios for Direct Yellow 12

and Direct Yellow 27 respectively for dyeing of

irradiated cotton to get good tinctorial strength. The

dye bath exhaustion increases with decrease in dyeing

liquor ratio. Decrease in liquor ratio decreases the

amount of waste dye in effluent. The greater M:L ratio

causes over aggregation of dye in form of cluster on to

the irradiated fabric that causes unevenness (Clark

2011a; Rouettee 2002).

The data given in Table 1, show that gamma ray

treatment of fabric has improved light and wash

fastness characteristics. This is due to tuning of fabric

surface by gamma ray treatment which facilitates

sorption of dye molecules to greater extent resulting in

firm bonding. This interaction might depend upon the

presence of auxochromes in selected dye molecules

which make firm bonding with irradiated cotton fabric.

Exposure to light and detergent show maximum

resistance to detach.

Conclusions

Gamma ray treatment has been found as a novel

technique in textile processing. After tuning the fabric

surface at 18 kGy, it was concluded that good colour

strength and improved light fastness was achieved at

70 �C, for 70 min, keeping M: L of 1:30 and using

2 g/L of salt in the dye bath of pH 10 using Direct

Yellow 12.While using Direct Yellow 27, good colour

strength and excellent fastness properties were ob-

tained by dyeing optimum fabric (14 kGy) at 80 �C,for 60 min, keeping M: L of 1: 70 using 10 g/L of salt

at neutral medium (pH 7). Hence gamma ray treatment

has solved the major problem i-e poor or moderate

light fastness and proved as an effective tool in textile

processing.

Acknowledgments We are grateful to authorities of Nuclear

Institute for Agriculture and Biology (NIAB), Faisalabad,

Pakistan, for providing the radiation facility, and Mr. Zafar

Manger QA & QC of Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt.) Limited,

Faisalabad and Muhammad Abbas Director Harris Dyes and

Table 1 Effects of gamma

radiation on colourfastness

properties of irradiated

fabric at optimum condition

using Direct Yellow 12 and

Direct Yellow 27

Dyes used Optimum dyeing conditions Wash fastness Light fastness

Direct Yellow 12 NRP/NRC (control) 3–4 3–4

Optimum absorbed dose (RC/RP 18 kGy) 4–5 4–5

Dyeing temperature (70 �C) 4 4

Dyeing time (70 min) 4 4

Dyeing pH (10) 4 4–5

Salt conc. (2 g/L) 4–5 4–5

M:L (1:30) 4–5 4–5

Direct Yellow 27 NRP/NRC (control) 3–4 3–4

Optimum absorbed dose (RC/RP 14 kGy) 4–5 4–5

Dyeing temperature (80 �C) 4–5 4

Dyeing time (60 min) 4–5 4

Dyeing pH (7) 4 4

Salt Conc. (10 g/L) 4–5 4–5

M:L (1:70) 4–5 4–5

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Chemical (Pvt.) Limited, Faisalabad for providing the fastness

testers and spectra flash (SF650).

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