308 JUPIIS: Jurnal Pendidikan Ilmu-ilmu Sosial, 13 (2) (2021): 308-318 DOI: 10.24114/jupiis.v13i2.26874 JUPIIS: Jurnal Pendidikan Ilmu-ilmu Sosial Available online http://jurnal.unimed.ac.id/2012/index.php/jupiis The Power of Crowdcourcing and Participatory Culture: Beauty Vlogger Analysis on Wardah Cosmetic Brand Atikah Putri Adrilia Gultom Postgraduate Communication Science, Department of Communication Science, Faculty of Social and Political Sciences, University of Indonesia, Central Jakarta Accepted: 20 Nov 2021 Published: 1 Dec 2021 Abstract Advances in technology and the internet have fundamentally changed the way we consume media and generate innovation, including in the fields of advertising and marketing. Participatory culture and crowdsourcing by beauty vloggers change the power patterns (top-down, bottom-up or both) that the industry has in implementing advertising strategies. In addition, the strength of individuals in a participatory culture arises because of various media such as video blogs or websites that allow individuals to share comments and reviews. This situation provides an opportunity for beauty vloggers with the power they have to distribute their power, so that strength is not absolutely in the industry. Meanwhile, from the industry side, you can use beauty vlogger services to become a marketing strategy. This conceptual paper uses literature review and meta-synthesis methods to discuss the power possessed by beauty vloggers through participatory culture and crowdsourcing as well as linking it to Wardah cosmetic products as one of the products using the halal concept. The purpose of this research is to see the power possessed by beauty vloggers can influence the public using the local makeup brand Wardah and Wardah power as a local halal makeup brand so that it is attractive to Muslim women. Finally, the analysis of this conceptual paper shows that participatory culture and crowdsourcing have become very important entities in the dynamics of the advertising and marketing industry in the digital era. Keywords: Participatory Culture, Crowdsourcing, Halal Consumerism, Advertising and Marketing How to Cite: Gultom, A.P.A. (2021). The Power of Crowdcourcing and Participatory Culture: Beauty Vlogger Analysis on Wardah Cosmetic Brand. JUPIIS: Jurnal Pendidikan Ilmu-ilmu Sosial 13 (2): 308-318 *Corresponding author: [email protected]ISSN 2085-482X (Print) ISSN 2407-7429 (Online)
Advances in technology and the internet have fundamentally changed the way we consume media and generateinnovation, including inthe fieldsofadvertisingandmarketing.Participatorycultureandcrowdsourcingbybeautyvloggerschangethepowerpatterns(top-down,bottom-uporboth)thattheindustryhasinimplementingadvertisingstrategies.Inaddition,thestrengthofindividualsinaparticipatoryculturearisesbecauseofvariousmediasuchasvideoblogsorwebsitesthatallowindividualstosharecommentsandreviews.Thissituationprovidesanopportunityforbeautyvloggerswiththepowertheyhavetodistributetheirpower,sothatstrengthisnotabsolutelyintheindustry.Meanwhile,fromtheindustryside,youcanusebeautyvloggerservicestobecomeamarketingstrategy.Thisconceptualpaperusesliteraturereviewandmeta-synthesismethodstodiscussthepowerpossessedbybeautyvloggersthroughparticipatorycultureandcrowdsourcingaswellaslinkingittoWardahcosmeticproductsasoneoftheproductsusingthehalalconcept.ThepurposeofthisresearchistoseethepowerpossessedbybeautyvloggerscaninfluencethepublicusingthelocalmakeupbrandWardahandWardahpowerasalocalhalalmakeupbrandsothatitisattractivetoMuslimwomen.Finally,theanalysisofthisconceptualpapershowsthatparticipatorycultureandcrowdsourcinghavebecomeveryimportantentitiesinthedynamicsoftheadvertisingandmarketingindustryinthedigitalera.Keywords:ParticipatoryCulture,Crowdsourcing,HalalConsumerism,AdvertisingandMarketing
INTRODUCTIONThe advent of the internet has fundamentallychangedthemodernmediaecosystemandourhabits of consuming media. Society relies onvariousmediaincludingtraditionalandonlineplatformstokeepupwithdevelopmentsinthescientific field. This is something new forscientists to use their role actively incommunicatingdirectlywithvariousaudiences(Liang et al., 2014). Themechanism of SocialNetworkSites(SNS)accordingtoDellarocas(inLuarn et al., 2016) partially replaces thefunctionofsearchengines,allowingusersnotonlytosearch,butalsotopublishandreceiveshared information on their network. Socialmediaplaysanimportantroleinsociallife.AccordingtoToivonen(inLinetal.,2015)asafunctional definition, social media is theinteractionofpeopleandthecreation,sharing,exchanging, and commenting of content invirtual communities and networks. Socialmedia(egTwitter,YouTube,Plurk,Facebook)has becomeapopular space formarketers topromote products and customers share theiropinions about these products. Based onresearch, around 70% of people use socialmediatoreceivethelatestinformationaboutacompany,brandorproduct.Inaddition,about45% of people use socialmedia to distributeinformation.Sensis(inLinetal.,2015)reportsthatkeeping in touchwith friendsand family,sharing information, and coordinating socialeventsarethemaingoalsforwhichpeopleusesocialmedia.Socialmediahasbecomethemainplatform in the exchange and personalcommunication of information. In addition tothe use of their personal information, socialmediahasbeenincreasinglyusedbycompaniestocarryoutactivities.Based on this increasing trend, determininghow to apply social media to create value inbusiness is becoming a significant issue forcompanies.Therefore,Stockman(inLinetal.,2015) argues that “ensuring the rightadvertisementsreachtherightdemographicisthefirststeptowardssmartmarketing”.Today,advertising isamajorconcern foradvertisingsponsors and two terms are known, namelytarget advertising and social advertising to
increase advertising effectiveness. Targetadvertising focuseson identifying the targeted(right) recipients, whereas social advertisingemphasizes finding the right (influential)endorser to spread the ad (Lin et al., 2015).Based on this, the author connects theemergenceoftheendorserphenomenonwithaparticipatory culture, sees endorsers as amedium for companies to market theirproducts,butontheotherhandendorsersalsohavethepowertoconveybasedonexperiencesothattheycanprovidediversefeedbackforthecompany and society. /target consumers.Participatory culture (participatory culture),sees individual involvement as playing a veryimportantrole(Ashton,2015).Henry Jenkins (in Barker, 2017) states thatparticipatory online culture allows consumersto make media flow more completely undertheircontrol.Consumersarenotonlyallowedtocontribute in an industry controlledenvironment; they also participate in theproduction and distribution of culture. Thismore empowered consumer activity results in“bottom-up” agency as opposed tomore “top-down” corporate practices. This growth inactive consumption, user-generated content,andcollaborativeandcollectiveactionhasledtothe popularity of terms such as produsage(Bruns 2008), producer (vanDijck 2009), andco-creator(BanksandHumphreys2008),eachofwhich underscores the role that consumershave that should increase in shapingprofessionallyproducedmedia(Barker,2017).According to Jenkins (in Langlois, 2013), thediscourse on the rise of participatory onlineculturewiththeslogan"Do-It-Yourself"utilizespopular websites such as YouTube, Facebook,Wikipedia, Twitter through communicationtechnology and democratic actions. Fromamateur participatory cultural productions onYouTube to grassroots political activismorganizations on Facebook or Twitter (e.g.Barack Obama's 2008 election campaign andIranprotests in2009),user-generatedcontentmodelsoffernewhopeandnewpossibilitiesforpublic re-engagement in business affairs.commoninterests(Langlois,2013).
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The importance of participatory culturebecauseitwillresultinashiftinpower,initiallypower tends to be centralized for example inthe company and now becomesmore diffusebecause each individual can take part/role.Anyone has power, so that expertise can becarriedoutby anyonewith anetworkmodel,thisconditionismadepossibleoneofthemisbecause of the internet. This power is almostthesameasthatofanyendorserinanyindustrymodel. Based on this condition, from anindustry perspective, participatory cultureinfluences the company's approach toadvertising.Endorserscanbeseenasabottom-upphenomenon.Companiestodayarestartingtoadapttothecommunityortargetconsumersbylookingatendorsersbecausetheendorser'spositionasabottom-upcanbeaproblem forthecompanyifitisnotunderstood.Endorserswhohavethisbottom-uppoweraremorelikelytosharetheirhonestexperienceswithcertainproducts.Therefore,moreandmorecompaniesare implementing convergence andcollaborationtoachieveefficiency.The endorser phenomenon; one of them is abeauty vlogger from a local makeup brandWardahwho supports a participatory cultureand crowdsourcing in expressing theirexperiences using local makeup brandproducts (Ashton, 2015). The Wardah brandwas chosen because the halalmarket createsspace for the social mobility of middle-classMuslim women. Halal commodities includegender,whereretailproducts,especiallyherbalmedicineandcosmeticsarethemostimportantinstrumentsinforminghalalhabits(Rakhmani,2019). Access to halal products, providedthroughShariaandhalalcertificatesissuedbytheMUI,createsanillusorysocialbondamongMuslimsofdifferentclasses.Althoughmiddle-class Muslim women are encouraged tocontinuetheireducation,itfuelsanxietyaboutwomen'smorality in the domestic and publicsphere. The survey results show that 89percentthinkthatMuslimwomenshouldwearthe hijab (Rakhmani, 2019). According toSumarwan (in Widyaningrum, 2016) Islamic
consumers tend to choose products that havehalalcertificationcomparedtoproductsthatdonot yet have halal certificates by institutionsthathavethepowertoissuethecertificate.Thedesire to consume halal products in Muslimconsumers is considered as an effect of goodreligious understanding and information fromproducers regarding halal certificates on theirproductsasimportant(Widyaningrum,2016).Newmediaprovidesignificantopportunitiesforaudience feedback and participation, with thepower to influence the creation anddevelopment of contemporary works (Yeates,2018). This paper sees that participatoryculturecanbebuilt throughvariousplatformssuch as YouTube, Instagram, reviews in thecommentscolumn,andothers.Thevideomadeby beauty vloggers while reviewing Wardahproducts offers uniqueness for audiences andcompaniestoseeapictureofbeautyvloggersasconsumerspositioningWardahproductsinthehalal cosmeticsmarket. According to Tang (inWidodo&Mawardi,2017),videoblogsorbetterknownas"vlogs"areblogsintheformofvideoswith themost popular platform for uploadingvlogs is YouTube. A vlogger is a person orindividual who often uploads vlogs, generallyuploading experiences related to everyday lifeand providing reviews of the products used(Widodo&Mawardi,2017).Beautyvloggersareindividuals who produce videos with contentabout beauty and upload them to variousplatforms. Beauty referred to here is anyproductthatisbeingusedbyvloggersrelatedtoskincare, personal care, makeup, or otherbeauty tools (Widodo & Mawardi, 2017).Vloggers generally provide natural reviewsregardingwhatproductsarebeingused,sharetips,andexperiencestheyfeelwhenusingtheseproducts (Widodo & Mawardi, 2017); theauthorwants to see the use ofWardah's localmakeupproducts.Basedona review thatappearedonYouTube,thebeautyvloggerdescribedapositivereviewregardingtheWardahmakeupbrand.However,in fact, with the recent changes in technologydiffusion and the rise of social media that
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facilitate the complaint process (Daskal &Kampf,2015),itispossibleforbeautyvloggersto give negative reviews on these cosmeticproducts. However, in the end, thecompany/organization still has the power toignorethenegativereviewonthegroundsthatitisnotrepresentative,especiallyifthenumberofnegativereviewsisonlysmallandnotwellorganized (Daskal & Kampf, 2015). MichaelZimmer (in Langlois, 2013) explains that asusers, participatory onlinemedia iswhenwecanfreelyexpressourselvesbothfromcultural,political and economic perspectives, but thisfreedommustbepaidattheexpenseofputtingourselves in a network of surveillance,marketing, and advertising. This conditiongives rise to a paradox between freedom ofcommunication and control over thenetworkwhich results in two points of view; user-centric paradigm and network paradigm(Langlois, 2013). The user-centric paradigmfocuses on the relationship betweenempowering users and fostering moredemocratic communication. From thisperspective, communication is themain thingandonlinetechnologysupportsthecreationofvarious cultural meanings. This perspectiveallows for greater participation and agency(Langlois, 2013). Meanwhile, thenetwork/network paradigm focuses less oncommunicationcontentbutratheronnetworkconditionsandregulationswhere informationcan be disseminated online. The analysisfocuseson the intersectionbetween technicalinfrastructure, political and economicdynamicsandcodesandlaws(Lessig,2006),orprotocolsandcontrols(Galloway,2004),wherepower struggles over network control(Langlois, 2013). So in the end, informationpractices have control through networkregulation and limit user agency and privacyaboutwhatcanactuallybegeneratedandwhatcontentcanbeaccessed(Langlois,2013).Furthermore, crowdsourcing also involves anexisting culture. In the beginning, perhaps amessageorspecificallyanadvertisingmessagewas only distributed by the company as a
producer, but the current condition is thatanyone can take part in the disseminationprocess, so it can be said to be top-down orbottom-up(Ashton,2015).Effortstocollectandshare stories about everyday life and self-representationwouldfitwellwithparticipatoryculturalpracticesandcrowdsourcing.Tensionsaround strengths and expertise previouslyexplored separately in relation to digitalstorytelling and participatory culture are alsofound to converge (Ashton, 2015). The termcrowdsourcing is a broad term for differentapproaches, and there is no systematicunderstandingoftheirapplication.Estellés-Arolas and González-Ladrón-de-Guevara (in Bassi et al., 2019) articulate thefollowingdefinition:“Crowdsourcingisatypeofparticipatory online activity in whichindividuals, institutions, non-profitorganizationsorcompaniesproposetoagroupof individuals with diverse knowledge ,heterogeneity,andnumber,voluntarilyperformthe task. Jeff Howe first coined the termcrowdsourcing in a 2006 Wired magazinearticle,hemadeuseoftheinternet(Nakatsuetal.,2014).Manypopularwebsiteshaveforyearsused crowds to source content (e.g. commentfieldsanduserratingsonCNN,ebay,AmazonorNetflix, and user-generated content onWikipedia,Yelpandmanyothersites(Nakatsuetal.,2014).).The market potential according to the WorldHalal Forum (in Endah, 2014) is estimated toreach $2.7 trillion globally and demand thatdoes not only come from Muslim consumersaccording to the Global Pathfinder Report (inEndah, 2014), seems to be of interest to anumber of countries in Asia such asMalaysia,Indonesia, Thailand, and Japan compete to bethe center of halal products. As quoted fromWebb (in Endah, 2014), several foreigncompaniessuchasTescoandSainsbury'shavealso created special aisles that sell halal foodproducts. The high consumer desire for halalproductsisnotonlyforfoodproductsbutalsoforotherproductcategoriessuchascosmetics,financialservices,tourismandpharmaceuticals.
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ThepointofviewofMuslimsaccordingtoIssa,Z., 2009; Borzooei and Maryam (in Endah,2014)consuminghalalproductsisamust.Theword "halal" is rooted inArabicwhichmeanspermissible or according to Islamic law. PTParagonTechnologyandInnovation(PTI)withoneofitsbrands,Wardah,hasstrengtheneditsposition as a halal beauty product in thecosmetic market by diligently increasing itsproductportfoliointhecosmetic,skincareandpersonalcaresegments.Halaltrendislikelytodevelop and cosmetic manufacturers arekeenlyenteringthismarket.LuckforParagonwiththeWardahbrand,hasbecomeapioneerin penetrating the Muslim women market(Hidayat, 2019). Some of the artists thatWardahchosetobecomeBrandAmbassadorswere dominated by artists who woreheadscarves, such as: Inneke Koesherawati,Dewi Sandra, Zaskia Sungkar, Natasha RizkyandFenitaArie(Apriiani,2019).This paper will elaborate on how beautyvloggersareabletoinfluenceaudiencestouseWardah'slocalmakeupbrandbyusingpowerin the concept of participatory culture andcrowdsourcing. Various methods such asreading reference readings and literaturestudieswerecarriedouttofinddatarelevanttothe issue of participatory culture, advertisingand crowdsourcing. Based on theunderstanding that the author got from thevariousexplanationsabove, theauthorasksaconceptualquestionintheformof:Howcanabeautyvloggerwithaparticipatorycultureandcrowdsourcinghavebottom-uppowertotakeon an important role for localmakeup brandWardah? How is the power of Wardah'smakeupbrandasahalalmakeupbrandsothatitisattractivetoMuslimwomen?Thepurposeofthisstudyistoseehowbeautyvloggerswiththe power they have in one way through areview can influence the audience to use thelocal makeup brand Wardah and thepower/power of Wardah as a local halalmakeupbrandsothatitisattractivetoMuslimwomen.
METHODOLOGYThis paper is a conceptual study usingqualitative methods; literature review andmeta-synthesis. The essence of conceptualresearch is that this type of research takes aproblem-focused approach and answersquestions that really matter. Conceptualanalysis also does not need to build theory,bridgingexistingandinterdisciplinaryconceptsis sufficient (Gilson & Goldberg, 2015). Inaddition, a literature review was selected todemonstrate the novelty of what wasconsideredtheproblem.Literaturereviewsarebasedon ideas collectedanddeveloped, andaresearchercan learnandbuildonwhatothershave done (Neuman, 2014). Based on thepreliminary explanation, this study discussesscientific writings about participatory cultureand crowdsourcing by looking at the role ofbeauty vloggers. A qualitative approach bymeans ofmeta-synthesis is used to synthesize(summarize) the results of several qualitativedescriptivestudies(Perry&Hammond,2002).AccordingtoJensen&Allen,Thorneetal.,Walsh& Downe (in Nye et al., 2016) stated thatqualitativemeta-synthesis, like the underlyingqualitative research, ismore interpretive thanaggregate i.e. offeringnew interpretationsandinsightsratherthancombiningstudiessuchasmeta-analysis. -quantitative analysis. Variousmeta-syntheticapproachesaccordingtoKinnetal.(inEdwards&Kaimal,2016),“representsaninductivewaytocompareandtranslateauthors'understandingofkeymetaphors,phrases,ideas,concepts,andfindingsacrossstudies”.DISCUSSIONThepresence of the internet and socialmediahas a new impact on the advertising andmarketing industry. Initially, the industryfocusedmore on top-downpower; Companiesuseendorserstopromoteproductsandbrands.However,atthistimetheindustrymusthavetheability to predict what kind of pattern willdevelop in the future considering that everyindividual and endorser has the power topromotethemselvesandprovidereviewsonthe
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products andbrandsused.The review is alsogiven in accordance with the endorser'sinterests, not entirely in accordancewith thewishesoftheindustry.Aparticipatoryculturecan influence a company's approach toadvertising. Companies must also be able toadapttotheaudienceortargetconsumers,notvice versa. Technology allows the public atlargetobeinvolvedindisseminatingmessagesor advertisements, this shows increasedparticipation. In linewithMcLuhan's thinkingthat media are extensions of man (McLuhan,1964)sothatinotherwordsendorsers,beautyvloggersandindividualscanbesaidasmedia.Anindividualcanalsobeseenasamedium,sothatwhat is sold to thecompany isnot justaproduct but the person who advertises theproduct. Conditions in the future, beautyvloggers or endorsers can become freeadvertisers voluntarily, it is even possible foran individual to advertiseorpromotehimselfwiththepowerofhissocialmedia.Inaddition,the results obtained from qualitative analysisrelated to the experience of beauty vloggerswith the concept of participatory culture andcrowdsourcing to identifywhatmakesbeautyvloggers important in participatory culture.TheexamplechoseninthispaperistoseehowWardah has bottom-up power describedthroughbeautyvloggerswhoconductreviewsor reviews related to their products throughvariousSNSorsocialmedia.HalalMarketStrengthandWardahasaHalalMakeupBrandAccordingtothe2015PewResearchCenter(inKamarulzamanetal.,2016),morethanafifthofthe world's population is Muslim and thatproportion isprojected (Kamarulzamanet al.,2016)toincreasefrom1.7billionin2014to2.7billionin2030.Globally,ThomsonReuters(inKamarulzamanetal.,2016)statedthatMuslimspendingonfoodandbeverageswasestimatedat$1,292billion in2013,or17.76%ofglobalfoodandbeveragespending,andisprojectedtogrow to $2,537 billion in 2019 , or 21.2% ofglobal spending. In addition, the 2015 Pew
ResearchCenterdeclaredIslamtobethefastestgrowingreligionintheUSandisprojectedtobethe largest non-Christian religion by 2050.Therefore,ThomsonReuters(inKamarulzamanet al., 2016) argues that many companiesaroundtheworld,includingintheUS,continuetoignoretheimportanceofofferinghalalfood,significantlymissingoutontheopportunity toserveitslargeandgrowingnumberofMuslims.Thehalalmarkethascreatedaspaceforsocialmobilityformiddle-classMuslimwomen.Halalcommodities have gender, where retailproducts, especially herbal medicine andcosmetics, play themost role in forming halalhabits.Theaccessibilityofmorehalalproducts,which are sharia-compliant and the halalcertification issued by the MUI, creates anillusorysocialbondamongMuslimsofvariousclasses(Rakhmani,2019).Halalconsumerismisdefined as a socio-economic order thatpromotesanever-increasingpurchaseofgoodsand services in line with the state-sanctionedfatwas of Islamic authorities. Consuming halalproducts that are doctrinally and morallyjustified, and available through marketmechanisms,graduallybuildsahalalhabitus,asense of one's place in the shadow of theummah. This condition involves theconsumption of halal products that build theexperienceoflifeandcultureinthecapitalcityofbeingaMuslim.Inaddition,thisconditionisalso supported by a halal environment in theform of Islamic finance and banking, and theflowofhalalretailproductsintheformofgoodsandservices(Rakhmani,2019).Historically, finance, cosmetics,pharmaceuticals, tourism, shipping, andbiotechnology are not sectors wheremanufacturers and religious authoritiesextensively certify products as innocent.However, currently the companyadds Islamic,halal, and Sharia adjectives according to thetypesofgoodsandservicessoldinthesesectors.MillionsofMuslimconsumersdistinguishtheseproductsfromproductsthatarenotIslamicorharam (sinful, not halal) in theirway becausethisisimportant(Calder,2020).Theuseofthe
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wordhalalalsoincludesproductssuchashalalvaccines, halal refrigerators, halal nail polish,halal enzymes, Islamic dishwashers, halalresorts, halal frying pans, washing machinesaccording to Sharia, securities protected byIslamiclawandsoon(Calder,2010).2020).Wardah'spresenceasahalalmakeupbrandisa form of halal consumerism in Indonesia. InIndonesia, since 2017, the Governmentrequires food to be accompanied by a halalcertificate. However, since 2018 and 2019apart fromfood, toiletriesandmedicines, it isalsomandatory tobe accompaniedby ahalalcertificate by theMUI (Kumparan, 2019a). Inthis case, LPPOM MUI accommodates therequestsofconsumerswhowanttoknowwhatcosmetics have a halal certificate. Changes inthe list of LPPOMMUI changes from time totimebecausethecertification isonlyvalid fortwo years and must be extended. WardahCosmetics is amakeupbrand thathas ahalalcertificate from LPPOM MUI (Kumparan,2019a). Wardah as one of the halal makeupbrandsinIndonesiaisverywellreceivedbythetarget audience. This situation can be seenthroughYouTubeandGooglewhenlookingforinformationaboutWardahthenwhatappearsis positive information. Moral narratives arereproduced through halal consumerismmarketing channels, especially through retailproducts (eg Wardah) which are consideredeasier to control in purchasing compared tolong-term financial products (Rakhmani,2019).The following are some of the reasons whyWardah as one of the pioneers of developinghalal cosmetics (Kumparan, 2019b): first,Wardah Kosmetik was able to penetrate theglobalmarketandwasthefirst localcosmeticbrand to get halal certification since 1995;secondly, according to Google Trends(Kumparan, 2019b), searches for the phrase'halalmakeupproducts'havebeen increasingeverydaysince2013.Thisledtotheconclusionthat the demand for halal cosmetic productscontinues to increase; third, the report andstudy ‘Saudi Arabia Halal Cosmetics Market
ForecastandOpportunities2020’,predictsthatthehalalcosmeticsmarketwillcontinuetogrowby15percentforthenextfiveyears;fourth,inCanada, halal cosmetics are also in demandbecauseofthepopularityoftheissueof'cruelty-free' or support for animal rights, halalcosmetics arebelieved tobe an 'alternative tousing cosmetics that are free from animalingredients(Kumparan,2019b).Review forWardah through Sociolla asanExampleofParticipatoryCultureThe author refers to Sociolla as a platform todescribe a participatory culture because itallowseveryonetoreviewtheproductstheyusebased on their experiences, and also as anexample of crowdsourcing. Informationobtained from the Sociollawebsite stated thatSociolla was inspired to become a trustedbeauty advisor for consumers and everyone(Sociolla, 2020). Sociolla developed BeautyJournal as an online beauty media portaldedicated for women to explore and developtheirownuniquebeautystyle,while receivingthe latest information on trends anddevelopments from brands related tomakeupandskincare(Sociolla,2020).AsfortheSociollawebsite, which displays ratings on Wardahproducts,itwillbeseenbythenumberofstarsthatappearontheSociollawebsite.Thebetterthe review given, the more stars will be(Sociolla, 2020). This review fromoneuser ofWardah'smakeup products at Sociollawill beinput for other users. Every user who has aSociolla account will be seen as a produsage(Bruns 2008) for actively commenting andprovidingratingsrelatedtoproductspurchasedfromSociolla.Theterm'produsage'isrelatedtothe participatory culture described by Jenkins(inBarker,2017).Thefollowingisaviewfromthe Sociolla website which describes thereviewsofseveralpeopleregardingtheWardahKosmetikbrand:
Relationship of Marketing andAdvertisingtoParticipatoryCultureOnlineadvertisingisanadvertisingmethodbyutilizing the power of the internet and theWorldWideWeb(WWW)whosepurposeistoconvey promotional messages to attractconsumers. The categories of onlineadvertising include: contextual advertising onsearch engines, advertising, advertisingnetworks, banners and email marketing(Kireyev et al., 2016).Other important thingsthat need to be considered inmarketing andadvertisingareasfollows:first,thepurposeofadvertising is to inform, persuade, arouseemotionsandtriggeraction;second,inordertofulfill advertising objectives, the targetaudiencemustbeproperlyidentified.Anotherpurpose of advertising is to identify the rightaudience to receive the advertisement; Third,thedistributionofadvertisementsbychoosingtherightmediatoadvertiseisveryimportantforadvertisersandmarketers(Linetal.,2015).Basedonthedefinitionofthead,thepositionofthebeautyvloggeristofulfilltheobjectivesofthe advertisement created by thecompany/industry. If the beauty vlogger inconducting review activities is not voluntaryfor their experience, but the company'sstrategy in conducting advertising/marketing,it can be said that it is not included in thebottom-up participatory culture concept. Thecompany's ability to advertise is a top-downstrategy, and generally uses the term'endorser'. The definition of an endorser is aperson who influences certain individuals or
groups because the message conveyed by theendorser can influence customer behavior(Abezaetal.,2017).Furthermore,themarketingendorser by Abeza et al. divided into twocategories; first, celebrity endorsements(people who use their public recognition onbehalf of consumer goods by appearing withtheminadvertisements);second,non-celebrityendorsements (people who are notcelebrities/artists used in advertisements)(Abezaetal.,2017).Apart from endorsers, participatory culture isan importantconcept inadvertising.Thechartbelow illustrates how a cultural process of aperson,objectandcontextcanmakeapersonacelebrity.Thepresenceofcelebritieswhocarryoradvertiseacertainproductwillhaveaneffectonthatproduct.Inadditiontocelebrities,socialmedia (eg YouTube, Instagram, Twitter, andothers) also has the ability to influenceaudiences to eventually consume the product(Abezaetal.,2017).
The concept of participatory culture is todescribehowbeautyvloggerWardahKosmetikhasbottom-uportop-downpowertochangetheviews of consumers or target consumersregarding Wardah's makeup products. Thesituationwhenbeautyvloggersconductreviewsor other activities on various social mediaplatformsrelatedtoWardahcosmeticproducts,will indirectly have an effect on the company.Thiseffector feedbackdependson thereviewsubmitted, if it is positive it will benefit the
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companyandifitisnegativethenthecompanyneedstopayattentiontoit.Before information and communicationtechnologydevelopedveryrapidly,noonehadfullypredictedthattherewouldbeatimewheninformation processing, communicationmethods, and media consumption could becarried out comfortably without theconstraints of time and place. Today,informationcanbedisseminatedandreceivedin real-time, fromanywhere, ina simpleway.Indeed,aftertheadventoftheinternet,variouspossibilities have begun to emerge to enjoyentertainment content in various forms. Thistrend provides an opportunity for the mediaindustry to design media convergence. Forexample, it ispossible forabeautyvlogger towriteareviewofWardah'smakeuponSociollawhilewatchingaYouTubevlogaboutWardah'sproducts. This situation can be said asmediaconvergence. According to Jenkins (in Tobias,2013)mediaconvergencereferstoasituationin which many media systems coexist andwhere media content flows smoothly acrossthosesystems.Convergenceisunderstoodhereas a continuous process or series ofintersectionsbetweendifferentmediasystems,not a fixed relationship. For example, whilewatchingatelevisionshow,suchasTheVoice,involves different media, people mightsimultaneously post and read Twitter orFacebookcommentsaboutthecontestantsandjudges of the singing competition show.Convergence,however,ischaracterizedbythecrossing of different systems rather than thereplacementofoneanother(Tobias,2013).MarketingandAdvertisingRelationshipwithCrowdsourcingAccordingtoGatautis&Vitauskaite(inKumaretal.,2019)crowdsourcingcancreatevalueformost marketing-related activities and can beused for product development and testing,communication, development of innovativeideas,andvariousothertasks.Inaddition,theopinion of Whitla (2009) states three broadareas ofmarketingwhere crowdsourcing can
beused;productdevelopment,advertisingandpromotion, and marketing research. Marsden(2009)alsodiscussesusingcrowdsourcing forpromotion,feedback,andcontentcreation,andVukovic (2009) identifies in-companymarketingasoneofthekeyareas,wherethereis a high probability of crowdsourcingapplications(Kumaretal.,2019).The role of crowdsourcing from the definitionthathasbeendescribedincludesaYouTubevlogfrom beauty vlogger Wardah Kosmetik whenconducting a review. Review activities can beconsideredasfeedbackforcompaniesregardingtheir products in the cosmetic market.Companies are expected not to underestimatethecapabilitiesandpowerpossessedbybeautyvloggers,becauseifthesepowersareunited,itwillhaveanimpactonthecompany.Currently,there are also many companies that haveintegratedwiththestrengthsofbeautyvloggersto strengthen their product position in themarket. The integration of advertising withcrowdsourcingisalsoimportant.Technologicaladvancesmaketheindustrynottoseethingsinacompartmentalizedway.Everythingbecomesintegrated in the development of technologyand communication, such as howadvertisementsareseenunlikeadvertisementswhen delivered by a beauty vlogger throughtheir media. Advertising becomes relevant tothe concept of participatory culture and theconceptofcrowdsourcing.
CONCLUSIONChanges in technology from one period toanother are able to produce new feedbackmodels with participatory culture by beautyvloggers in expressing their experiences.Participatoryculturearisesbecauseofvariousmedia that allow each individual to sharecomments, video blogs (vlogs), reviews onwebsites and so on. The presence of thisparticipatory culture and crowdsourcingcreatesanopportunityforbeautyvloggerswithbottom-uppower todistribute theirstrengths,so that power is not absolutely owned by theindustry.However,fromtheindustryside,thisconditionisstillprofitablebecausetheindustryhas the ability to eventually adopt this beauty
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vloggerasoneofthemarketingandadvertisingstrategies.The digital era and media convergence willrequire every industry to be able to followexistingpatternsandadaptquickly.Thispaperfocuses on the local makeup brand Wardah,which isoneof thebrands from the cosmeticindustry that can see this opportunity, bytargetingconsumerswhocareaboutthehalallabel on the cosmetics used. Wardah is aproductthathasthepotentialtodominatetheMuslim women market. Although there aremany other halal cosmetic products, Wardahhas been there since 1995. The rapiddevelopment of halal consumerism is alsoinfluenced by the wishes of the Indonesianpeoplethemselves.Since2018,thebeliefintheimportanceofLPPOMMUIhalalcertificationincosmeticproductshasemergedandisgrowingrapidly.Thisarticleisexpectedtocontributetofurtherstudies that discuss participatory culture andcrowdsourcinginthisdigitalandcomplexera.The explanation presented in this article is aformof conceptualelaborationcarriedoutbythe researcher and is also expected to be areference for research in the field ofcommunicationinthefuture.Limitationsinthisresearch can provide new space for furtherresearchandcanenrich thinking insight.Thisstudy only describes conceptually how thepowerofbeautyvloggersintheworldofsocialmedia canhavean impactonadvertisingandmarketingstrategies.Thisarticlewillbericherif in the future it raises the issue in a widercontext by combining two or more researchmethods.Thisissueisanissuethatisclosetotheaudience,soitisveryimportantinthiserato pay attention to various kinds ofdevelopmentsthatappearintheindustry,asaresult of advances in technology andcommunication.
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