Pomes, Nuts and Berries, Oh My!September 17, 2013
The Morton ArboretumCommunity Trees ProgramAndrea DierichPresentation was made possible by the Illinois Extension Service
Step 1: Determining if Fruit Trees Are Right for You
Maintenance Level:
- Low (water, weed & mulch)
-Medium (some pruning and pest management)
-High (pruning and dedicated pest management)
Species that Fit Your Style
Low: figs, mulberry, most nut trees, paw-paw, persimmon, serviceberry
Medium: tart cherries, pears, plums
High: apples peaches, some pears
General Information
-Winter is a limiting factor in growing some fruit
-Bare-root or container recommended for planting
-Best planted when small
-Dedicated fall and spring care
Other Considerations & Determining Factors
•Space•Sunlight•Soil•Moisture & Drainage•Pollination•Pests & Diseases
Site Selection-full sun (8-10 hours)
Site Selection-fertile, well drained soil
Site Selection-good air drainage
Site Selection-protection from summer wind
Soil TypeSlightly Acidic - Neutral• Paw-Paws• Serviceberries • Persimmon• Pears• Cherries• Hazelnut
Neutral – Alkaline• Apples• Pecans• Walnut• Chinese Chestnuts
Planting
Time: spring, usually around April
Spacing: varies depending on the species and effect desired
Handling bare-root stock: keep roots damp plant as soon as possible root prune with care
Planting
Proper planting: • dig large enough hole• spread roots, cut off bad ones• plant at proper depth*• keep soil moist• do not fertilize for the first year!
Remove at planting time:
-dead limbs
-weak limbs
-crossing limbs
-water sprouts
-root suckers
Planting
Planting
Trees on seedling rootstock: plant 2 inches deeper than they were planted in the nursery (for stability)
Trees on dwarfing rootstock: graft or bud union should be about 3” above the soil level
Tree Size
Standard (grafted on seedling rootstock) -full size, large trees*Nut trees generally are standard size.*
Semi-Dwarf and Dwarf-variable in size-ask about the mature height
Purchasing Tree StockHomework into nurseries and suitable tree
species will be required.
- Buy container or bare-root- Ensure immediate planting or care will be
available when stock arrives- If container tree remove top layer of soil
until first root is visible- May species will require at least a second
tree to be purchased…
Fruitfulness/PollinationSelf-pollination vs. Cross Pollination
Fruitfulness/Pollination
Self-fruitful:
• Peach•Tart Cherries • Hazelnuts
Self- unfruitful:• Most apples• Pears• Paw-Paws• Japanese plum• Chinese chestnuts
Fruitfulness/Pollination
Partially Self-fruitful:
• Apricots• European plums• Walnut• Pecan
Young TreesHelp a tree to establish and strengthen
before fruit production!
Mulch soilAdequate waterLimb trainPruneFertilize in the late summer (2nd yr)
Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees
Prevent premature bearing:
-remove all fruit the first 2 seasons
-after that allow light to moderate crops
-do not allow a heavy fruit load on centralleader
Branch spreading in a young tree using toothpicks.
Branch spreading in a older tree using wood stakes.
Well trained trees!
Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees
Bringing young trees into bearing -reduce N fertilization -tie or spread branches
Pest Control•Organic deterrent (1 part Tabasco – 5 parts
H2O)•Bordeaux mixture•Stem wrapping + hardwire
Bearing Trees: Spring Care
Fertilize properly: -early spring at bud-swell -start 1’ out from trunk and go to drip-line
Spring pruningAid pollination if needed (paw-paw)Protect buds and immature fruit from fungal and tissue diseases.
Bearing Trees: Fall Care
•Sanitation!!!!!! Remove all debris; including leaf litter, and fruit.
•Water, water, water•Mulch•Identify branches to prune in the late
winter•Wrap bark of young trees
Bearing Trees ‘Winter’ injury
Fluctuating day/night temperatures
frost cracking
Spring frostcover tree to the ground
Bearing Trees: Fruit Thinning
Why do it?
Excess fruit will
-reduce fruit size
-retard development of next year’s buds
-increase risk of branch breakage
Bearing Trees: Fruit ThinningWhen to do it? -Late May, early June
How? -nature (June drop)
-by hand-a little shake
Consider the spacing between fruit as well!
Why Prune?
1. Improve quality and size of fruit
2. Develop a strong tree
3. Facilitate culture and harvest
4. Manage size and shape of the tree
Pruning Fruit Trees: Training Systems
Open Center commonly used for stone fruit trees
Central Leader commonly used for apples, pears, cherries and some plums
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
-single trunk, 18-30 inches high
-2, 3 or 4 scaffold branches, all closetogether near top of tree
-crotch angles 40-90 degrees
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
-one main trunk, 5-8 feet tall
-lowest branch 18-22 inches from ground (not on SW side)
-5-12 scaffolds, spaced 4-8 inches apart vertically on trunk; or clustered 18-24 inches apart (upper ones shorter)
-crotch angles 40-90 degrees
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader
Thank you!Andrea [email protected]