University of the Philippines
Ermita, Manila
SPANISH AND AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE IN MANILA
Submitted by: Gerald P. Santos
Submitted to: Ms. Regatta Antonio
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila2
Function, permanence and aesthetics: these define the aspects of architecture. At first, it only
existed to have function; but with the advent of man’s intellectual evolution and longing for
beauty, there existed permanence and aesthetics.
Architecture provides a basic shelter for man. In the Philippines, for that matter, it started on
simple bahay kubo until we came up to the magnificent National Art Gallery building. It was a
celebrated success of colonial architectural movements but temporarily interfered by a series of
unfortunate events.
The city of Manila, the capital of the Philippines, was said to be ravaged by colonization,
bombings, earthquakes, bombings again, another occupation and another bombings. These may
be the reason of tragic history of Manila and mixed cultural and social influences. But still,
Manila managed to handle and stand through guns and fires.
But Manila of today is
way different from
yesterday’s Manila.
Intramuros (inside the
walls) was the Spanish
Manila. It occupied a
piece of land with an
area of 64 hectares and resembled an irregular pentagon. The city was also known as Ciudad
Murada or Ciudad de Manila. On the other hand, Extramuros (outside the walls ) , consisted of
araballes or suburbs. This portion is referred to as Provincia de Manila.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila3
Intramuros, being the country’s center of government and religion, was greatly influenced by
changes brought by Spanish colonizers. One of the elements that had changed was the
architectural tradition.
The structures built under this period could be classified into four main groups: ecclesiastical,
military, social and civil.
Churches were the most widespread structures built. These of course were to help Spanish
colonizers in proclaiming the word of God and to
take in charge in converting unpacified places.
Intramuros had seven churches, excluding the ones
demolished under Spanish regime.
The seven churches were: Manila Cathedral, San
Agustin Church, Santo Domingo Church, San
Francisco Church, Church of Recollects, San
Ignacio and Lourdes Church.
Churches were either designed following
Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. For examples, the Manila Cathedral was
in Romanesque, San Agustin in Baroque and Santo Domingo in Gothic style.
These buildings were arranged according to a plan. Atypical church in this time had the
following parts: (1) A nave or central aisle, (2) An apse, which houses the altar, (3) A choir loft
which occupies the space above the main entrance behind the façade. It often spans just like the
width of the church. (4) A bell tower, (5) transepts and (6) baptistry.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila4
Even before the arrival of Spaniards, city fortifications had been made by Rajah Soliman. This
fort is located on the delta at the mouth of the Pasig River. The delta was protected by lantakas
or small brass cannons and fortified by palisade of earth and coconut logs.
Soliman, realizing the superiority of the conquistadores, left his fort. Thus, Legazpi had a
bloodless conquest and easy claiming of Manila in 1571.
June 24 of the same year marked the declaration of Legazpi designating Manila as the capital
of the newly conquered land. King Philipp II granted the city’s coat of arms and a title of
“ Insigne y siempre leal ciudad” ( Distinguished and Ever Loyal City) . The king also entitled
Legazpi to as being an Adelantado.
Under the orders of Governor General Gomez Perez Dasmarinas in 1590’s, they replaced the
ruins of Soliman’s fortifications a new military defense station. The constructed fort guarded the
mouth of the Pasig River. This fort was named after Spain’s patron saint, Santiago. Together
with this is the start of building the walls enclosing Manila. The construction of walls almost
took 250 years (1590 to 1830) under successive governor generals.
Aside from forts, additional defenses were also made for the safety of the newly established
acropolis. These were the Casamatas or a platform where cannons and other artillery were aimed
outwards. Also, bastions and revelins were built. A foso or a moat surrounded the entire
fortification.
Being the country’s center of political, educational and religious orders, many buildings for
civil purposes were built in Intramuros. Civil structures could be for government or
administrative offices, social purposes or commercial use.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila5
Just beside the Plaza Mayor, two of the most important government buildings of the land
could be found. One was the Casa del Ayuntamiento, the seat of Manila’s administration. Facing
the Ayuntamiento was the residence of the highest ranking official of the central government, the
Palacio del Gobernador.
The Ayuntamiento served for social and administrative functions. Its grand hall was often used
for festive occasions and other public activities. The elegance of the city hall was testified by its
grand escalera and portal.
The Governor General’s
residence housed the Real
Audiencia or Tribunal. The
governor lived here with his
family but not until the
earthquake of 1863. This
earthquake was so powerful
that it had change the whole Manila. It destructed many buildings including the Palacio del
Gobernador. The Palacio was never built; instead the Governor General’s residence was
transferred to Malacanang just across the Pasig River.
The two administrative buildings were both made of stone, had two levels and spacious inner
courtyards.
The Hospital San Juan de Dios was considered the first hospital in Manila. It was under the
Franciscans before it was handled by the Order of San Juan de Dios.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila6
Religious orders administered not only in the
religious aspect but also in the educational
field. Churches may have a beaterio for
young girls who chose to live secluded lives
or a seminary for boys.
At least six schools were established inside
the walls. All were handled by religious
orders. These were: Beaterio- Colegio de
Santa Catalina, Colegio de Santa Isabel, Colegio de Santa Potenciana and Colegio de Santa
Rosa. These were all for girls. For boys, there were: Colegio de San Juan de Letran, Colegio de
San Jose which later became the Ateneo Municipal and Letran’s rival, and Universidad de Santo
Tomas.
Aside from churches, Spanish architectural style was greatly seen on houses. Houses were of
two stories, a box-like structure partly made of wood and stone. This style was developed by the
combination of Filipino-Hispanic styles and later known as Arquitectura Mestiza.This structure
was so-called as “bahay na bato” (house of stone). It was said that it resembles Antillan houses
or others say it was Mediterranean. This type of houses is characterized by their volada, a
protruding balcony overhanging the ground floor.
Spaniards brought and developed the practice of partitioning. Thus, every part of the house
had its own use. Entry to house was permitted through the zaguan, a hall on the ground floor.
Horses were housed in a cuadra or stable. It was in bodega or storage room where palay bins
were stored. Just a meter above the ground was the entresuelo. Access in this mezzanine was
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila7
only done by the master of the house. This served as his or her office, vault for jewelries and
money or bedroom. Walking on the steps of the escalera or staircase would lead you to caida or
antesala. Informal entertaining of guests held here. Larger than the caida was the sala, which
occupied the largest room inside the house. At one end of sala was the comedor, the dining
room, which led to cocina or kitchen. Adjacent to kitchen was the dispensa, a room for food
storage. Latrina (toilet) was separated from baño or paliguan. Extending the baño was the
azotea. It is a flat terrace usually used as a drying area for laundry or service area for servants.
Bedrooms back then were referred to as a cuarto, alcoba or dormitorio.
Going out through on of the gates of Intramuros would lead you to an entirely different world.
Here, in Extramuros, ordinary people inhabited the arraballes. This larger piece of land once had
a series of settlements along the moat and the shoreline that surrounded the walls. It covered an
area from today’s Luneta to Liwasang Bonifacio.
Originally, Extramuros consisted of at least six suburbs. The identified ones were:
Bagumbayan, Santiago which became part of the larger Bagumbayan now, San Juan, which
occupied the rest of Rizal Park and extending to National Museum. The San Fernando de Dilao
covered the present Manila City Hall up to Philippine Normal University. Adamson University,
the Sweepstakes Office and Hotel Mirador were once a part of San Miguel. Lastly, the Parian, at
the banks of Pasig (Post Office Building, Plaza Lawton, Metropolitan Theatre and Jardin
Botanico).
Binondo, Quiapo and Santa Cruz churches were examples of extramural churches. These
religious structures made the identity of its respective districts. It unified the community and
taught the people of independence. The start of Filipino nation began in this setting.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila8
For added security, San Antonio Abad was installed. It was built after the British trial of
conquest. This fort was also known as La Polvorista Abad for it was used as a powder
storehouse.
Hospicio de San Jose and Asilo de San Vicente de Paul were both charitable institutions for
the disabled. It had spacious buildings, wide inner courtyards and a central chapel. Hospicio,
stood on an island on Pasig River.
Hospitals were also established outside the walls. Hospital de San Gabriel was for the Chinese
in Binondo. This was one of the results of segregation attempts of Spanish government to the
Chinese people. Another was the Hospital de San Lazaro in Santa Cruz. It was a home for lepers
back then.
Parian was the commercial nucleus of Manila for two centuries. It reflected the creativity of
the Chinese people in Manila. This was also a result of segregation attempts. According to
Bishop Domingo Salazar, it is at first a marsh land near Santo Domingo in Intramuros. Then, it
consequently changed into a silk market, porcelain factories, tool shops and hardware stores. He
said that he found the finest imitations here.
The Chinese quarters had four rows of buildings and houses. Each building was separated by
streets. The buildings were quadrangle in shape.
Across the river, the Alacaiceria de San Fernando once stood. This had shops for Chinese
merchants. The edifice was described to be octagonal in shape.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila9
At the half of the 19th century, a new commercial district flourished. In this time, Escolta is the
most important business district in Manila. Here, prestigious and large companies stood. It is the
shopping capital of those who are in the alta de sociedad.
Fine dining and luxurious stay were offered by Hotel de Oriente, the finest hotel in Manila.
Rizal used to stay here.
La Insular Cigar and Cigarette Factory was described to exhibit intricate Moorish motifs.
Aduana, the customs office was built along the banks of Pasig. Banks like Banco Español-
Filipino de Isabel II and
Monte de Piedad moved from
their original offices.
These architectural
developments started from the
lowly bahay kubo (nipa hut)
which was the basic form of shelter for ordinary Filipinos. Huts were lined along the moat and
bay. It was a room dwelling supported by posts on each side. It was intended to be built above
the ground for protection against snakes. The floor was made up of bamboo slats with spaces for
ventilation and cooling.
The plan for a bahay kubo includes: a bulwagan, a receiving room, a silid or bedroom.
Cooking area or kitchen is called paglutuan or gilir. Silong is used for storage. Usually, the
kitchen is at the rear of the house with following features: a dapogan or stove, bangahan for
drying and storing kitchen utensils and a batalan where water jars were kept.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila10
The Europeans developed and introduced the idea of planning. The house had different rooms,
partitioned from one another. Each had its own use for each house works. Monumentality is
visible as exemplified by the grand escalera which signifies the social status of the house
masters.
The windows used hinges and partitions. Instead of glass, capiz shells were utilized to serve as
ornaments for windows. Tiles were used for roofing. Masonry revolutionized the pre-Hispanic
architectural traditions. The use of cement and bricks made architecture in a real sense for it
already had permanence. Buildings were not limited only to dwelling but also to ecclesiastical,
military and civil purposes.
They also introduced the idea of town
planning. Buildings were put together in a
square or box like manner as if it were a
chess board. Streets were perpendicular to
each other. Reduccion or resettlements made
churches, administrative offices and schools
surround around a plaza. Residences were put under the church bells. Households nearer the
plaza show that they are included in the high order of society while moving farther is the
opposite.
After many series of events, the Americans started occupying the Philippines. Architecture is
not on the priority list but they still managed to leave us something that we could be proud of.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila11
The Legislative building is one of our happiest moments. It symbolized our readiness to
embrace new ideas. The beauty of this edifice marked the separation between the Spanish
architectural scene and the upcoming new styles.
These achievements were made possible by Daniel Burnham and through his “City Beautiful”
movement.
Burnham’s plan for Manila contained the government center which occupied the Wallace
field. The center will include government offices neighbouring each other for easy access. The
Manila Capitol was also planned to rise up facing the Manila Bay.
Burnham chose William Parsons to
execute the plan. It was funded at 2 million
pesos each year. But Quezon is more
concerned on the irrigation processes and
decided not to continue constructing this
monumental buildings. Thus, only three
units of the proposed plan were built: The Legislative building, which is originally to house the
National Library, and the twin buildings of Finance and Agriculture.
Parsons founded the Bureau of Public Works. The bureau consisted of American and Filipino
architects. Their first project was the Manila Hotel. It was considered as their finest project.
The bureau was also responsible for the erection of The Philippine General Hospital Complex,
The Philippine Normal College and The University of the Philippines.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila12
The University of the Philippines occupied a block at Padre Faura. Most of its buildings were
designed by Filipinos Juan Arellano and Antonio Toledo. The Villamor Hall, which housed the
Fine Arts and Music School, was designed by Juan Arellano. Unlike other buildings designed in
neo-classical style, the Villamor Hall adapted the Renaissance style.
Other government buildings were the Manila City Hall, designed by Antonio Toledo and the
Post Office Building, also by Arellano and considered by some as his masterpiece. Its tall Ionic
colonnade dominated the facade which adds beauty to the whole edifice.
The Intramuros was untouched by the Burnham plan. This is to preserve the historical
significance within its walls. But this preservation failed. The ancient city was bombarded
instead.
It was the feast of the
Immaculate Concepcion but
holy masses were forgotten. The
headlines astonished the
community. The war has
started.
Evacuation drills were held.
Almost one hundred thousand people from Manila moved to province of Rizal for refuge.
Commotion was everywhere.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila13
On December 26, 1941, it was declared that Manila was now an open city. In spite of the
declaration, bombings still happened. The Japanese destroyed the Santo Domingo Church, Santa
Catalina College and other government offices.
The entry happened on the starting day of 1942. At the same time Quezon designated his
executive secretary, Jorge Vargas as the mayor of Greater Manila.
Intramuros was widely destructed. The life had become so tough for the people inside that
they even butchered dogs to make both ends meet. The walled city became a vast torture and
prison cell. Cries could be heard in the silence of the night.
In short, Manila turned into dust.
The once “distinguished and ever loyal city” is
now unidentifiable. Blood and tears flowed over
the devastated land of Manila. The grandiosity of
Manila was gone. No doubt that it is the second
most destroyed city after the World War II
(Warsaw being the most destroyed).
Of all of these, only San Agustin Church was
intact. Almost all other buildings, bridges and churches were in ruins.
Years passed by and most of destructed buildings were reconstructed. Others change their
usage. The former Legislative and Finance buildings became the National Museums. Finance’s
twin, the Agriculture building housed the Department of Tourism. Many buildings in Intramuros
changed into educational and commercial structures. The University of the Manila was once the
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila14
site of the Jesuit compound. Lyceum stood on the Hospicio de San Jose’s ruins. The buildings of
UP at Padre Faura became the Justice complex including: NBI, DOJ, Court of Appeals and
Supreme Court. Only the Rizal Hall was left and used.
Others changed their sites. The Ateneo and Manila Observatory also at Padre Faura moved to
Loyola Heights and Quezon City. The Administration office of UP was transferred to 493
hectares of land in Diliman, Quezon City.
Others remained to where they came from. Their beauty still reflected their younger years as if
war did not break out. These
edifices lined across the historic
Manila, the once distinguished
and ever loyal city. The city
which was occupied, struck by an
earthquake, bombed, occupied,
bombed and occupied. It was a
long course of history under
different government.
Manila is still beautiful. It is a city to be proud of. Appreciating its charm is far more than
exemplified by its architectural treasures. The history told by its walls, pillars, churches tells us
to find our national identity and love what we have. There is no place like Manila. Manila is our
home.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila15
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Joaquin, N. (1999). Manila, My Manila. Manila: Republic of the Philippines.
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Philippines.
Torres, C. (2010). The Americanization of Manila. Quezon City: The University of the Philippines Press.
Spanish and American Architecture in Manila16
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__________ (2009, January-March). Wartime Manila. Gaceta de Intramuros 2(1), pp. 9-10.