Saint Laurent Rive Gauche exhibition

transcript

8/7/2019 Saint Laurent Rive Gauche exhibition

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Fondation Pierre Berg - Yves Saint Laurent / 5, avenue Marceau / 75116 Paris

Exhibition

SAINT LAURENT rive gaucheLa rvolution de la mode

from 5 March to 17 July 2011

CuratorPierre Berg

Artistic DirectorLoulou de la Falaise

AdviserDominique Deroche

Exhibition designerChristophe Martin

The Fondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent dedicates its 15th exhibition

to the prt--porter brand Saint Laurent rive gauche. Nearly seventy looks

will be presented in the exhibition space on avenue Marceau, which has

been remodeled to recapture the decor of the rst Saint Laurent rive gauche

boutique, inaugurated in September 1966 on rue de Tournon.

The Yves Saint Laurent retrospective held at Petit Palais from March to August

2010 retraced 40 years of haute couture creation and plunged 300,000 visitors

into another universe, one of perfection and of daydreams. With the Yves Saint

Laurent rive gauche exhibition, Pierre Berg shows us how Yves Saint Laurent

accomplished a strong social and political act by creating a prt--porter brand

in his name.

Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent

and Loulou de la Falaise

at the inauguration of the rst

Saint Laurent rive gauche boutiqueat New Bond Street in London

10 September 1969

Wesley/Keystone/Getty Images

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An afternoon reservedfor the PRESS :

Thursday 3 March 2011from 2.00 pm to 8.00 pm


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Dress and pull-over, Saint Laurent rive gauche, from the Autumn-Winter collection 1971. Photo Sophie Carre

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A bas le Ritz !Vive la rue !

Saint Laurentrive gauche wasborn from Yves Saint Laurents

will alone to make his creations

accessible to a greater number of

women. The famous designer did

not want to limit himself by only

dressing very rich women, he who

was in touch with the women of

his epoch. Barely ve years after

having founded his haute couture

fashion house with Pierre Berg,

Yves Saint Laurent was to be the

rst designer to launch a prt--

porter brand in his name.

The rst boutique opened at

21 rue de Tournon, in the sixth

arrondissement of Paris, on 26

September 1966. Catherine

Deneuve was the guest of honor at

the inauguration.

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Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1967 collection


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Saint Laurent rive gauche, 1967 collection. Photo DR



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A split

This act marked the end of

fashion as it had previously

existed; the end of strict

rules, diktats and rigid codes.

In making this radical choice,

Yves Saint Laurent led the

way to the future by bringing

fashion into social territory.

Chanel had gained the rst

foothold; by forgetting the

corset and proposing pants

to women, she gave them

freedom. Yves Saint Laurent

picked up from where she left

off by sliding the suit off the

shoulders of men and onto

those of women in the form of

Le smoking. In doing so, he

gave women power.

This shock turned the world

of fashion upside down. With

rive gauche, Yves Saint

Laurent did not decide, as

was expected of his time, to

create simplied adaptations

of his haute couture looks.

Instead, he offered stand-alone fashion, which made the prices signicantly

more accessible. He claimed, I want to break away from the idea that haute

couture is the sole image of fashion. Fashion is what can be worn. This is

the main square, not a closed circle (1). He then adapts himself to what afactory is capable of producing, and takes into consideration the constraints

of industrial fabrication. For the designer, the most important step in the rive

gauche creation process is the tting. He explains, a piece of rive gauche

clothing must t everyone, its for this reason that the ttings are, for me, so

important. It is imperative that the fabrication in the factory is impeccable. (1)

(1) In Glamour n64, May 1994, p.86-88

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Saint Laurent rive gauche, circa 1970Navy blue woolen sailors jacket, white silk scarf branded YSL, blue woolen beanie

(Sailors jacket from the Anouschka collection)

Photo (c) Sophie Carre


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Saint Laurent rive gauche offered clothes to accompany free, young and ac-tive women in their everyday lives, to makes up the wardrobe of the contempo-

rary woman. Yves Saint Laurent borrows several uniforms from men, such as:

the sailors jacket, the safari jacket, the suit, the trench coat, military jackets,coachmans capes The knitted dresses are light and casual and the skirts

brightened up with little tops. He wants to offer a style more than a fashion,

to eliminate the superuous in order to attain the essential in proposing basic

looks that women can count on.

At this time, the night is a

party and people go out all

week long. Saint Laurentrive gauche dresses women

from morning to dawn. The

little silver dresses accom-

panied by shiny, gilded tights

are a huge hit and the rive

gauche accessories are

as popular as the clothes.

Leather, laced or braided, is

placed around the neck or

forehead, wide belts are put

around the waist of bohemian

skirts, oppy hats have wide

brims, boots have laces and

are made of bicolor leather,

and thigh boots make an ap-

pearance with long leggings.

The rive gauche woman is

sure of herself and of her

femininity.

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Saint Laurent rive gauche, Spring-Summer collection 1967

Saffron-colored shantung silk dress, silk necktie, square hoop tortoiseshell belt,

sky-blue cotton hat

(Belt from the E2 collection)



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Saint Laurent rive gauche, Autumn-Winter collection 1969

Cotton piqu oral dress embroidered with white tassels

(from the Didier Ludo collection)



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She goes on to add Djinn benches covered in purple material that had been

drawn one year earlier by a 27 year old designer, Olivier Mourgue, and the

lamps by Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi. The clients are welcomed

by a life-size portrait of Yves Saint Laurent, painted by Eduardo Arroyo, one of

the founders of the guration narrative movement who ed Francoist Spain in

1958. The back of the boutique overlooked a courtyard featuring the famous

Nanas sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle, who had just joined a group of new

realists.

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Betty Catroux in a Saint Laurent rive gauche boutique. Photo DR


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Loulou de la Falaise. Photo DR


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SPECIAL PUBLICATIONSFOR THIS EXHIBITION

Exhibition catalogue

SAINT LAURENT rive gauche

La rvolution de la mode

The exhibition catalogue has been published in colla-

boration with Les Editions de La Martinire

Sale price: 35

Format 22.5 x 27cm, 176 pages with approximately 150 illustrations

TextsYves Saint Laurent pntre sur le territoire socialby Pierre Berg

Lembarquement pour rive gauche by Jromine Savignon

La beaut pour tous by Gilles de Bure

The catalogue will be on sale:

- at the Fondations boutique from 5 March 2011

- in bookshops from 17 March 2011

Saint Laurent rive gauche coloring bookEditions ptit Glnat

Large format, 25cm x 36cm : 10

Small format, 12.5cm x 18cm : 5

40 color pages, bilingual edition

The coloring book will be on sale:

- from the Fondations boutique from 5 March 2011

- in bookshops from 17 March 2011

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Fondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent

5 avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris

Phone: +33 (0)1 44 31 64 00

Exhibition space3 rue Lonce Reynaud, 75116 Paris

Open from Tuesday to Sunday, except public holidays

from 11.00am to 6.00pm (last entry at 5.30pm)

with late night on Thursday until 9.00pm (last entry at 8.30pm)Phone: +33 (0)1 44 31 64 31

Accessible for people with disabilities

7 full price

5 for students, people under 25, seniors (upon presentation of a valid card)

Free for children under 10 and the unemployed

www.fondation-pb-ysl.net

PRESS/COMMUNICATIONFondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent

Laetitia Roux Tl. +33 (0)1 44 31 64 17l.roux@fondation-pb-ysl.net

Olivier Flaviano Tl. +33 (0)1 44 31 64 19o.aviano@fondation-pb-ysl.net

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FONDATION PIERRE BERG - YVES SAINT LAURENT

The Pierre Berg -Yves Saint Laurent Foundation opened in 2002 is the result

of forty years of creation. It retraces the history of fashion as created by Yves

Saint Laurent, fashion that reveals the inner workings of society. By making use

of masculine codes, he brought women a sense of security and daring whilst

preserving their femininity. These clothes are part of 20th century history. They

have accompanied womens emancipation in every domain, be it personal,

social or political.

Forty years of passion combined with memories that are transformed into new

projects, thus continuing this long-begun adventure.

The mission of the Pierre Berg -Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, a state-

recognized foundation since the 5th of December 2002, is to:

Conserve 5,000 garments, 15,000 haute couture accessories and 35,000sketches and other items that bear witness to Yves Saint Laurents

creativity;

Organize exhibitions: fashion, paintings, photographs, drawings etc.; Support artistic, cultural and educational projects.

In 2010, the Foundation was given the Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, savedby Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berg in 1980, and which will become The

Berber Museum in June 2011.

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Coming soon to the FoundationGisle Freund, photographie (working title)

October 2011 January 2012

Exhibitions at the Foundation

David Hockney : Fleurs fraches,2010

Vanit. Mort, que me veux-tu ?, 2010

Les derniers Maharajas, 2010

Le costume populaire russe, 2009

Jean-Michel Frank, un dcorateur dans le Paris des annes 30,2009

David Seidner Photographies, 2008 / 2009

Une Passion marocaine Caftans, Broderies, Bijoux,2008

Yves Saint Laurent Thtre, Cinma, Music-hall, Ballet,2007 / 2008

Yves Saint Laurent Nan Kempner, une amricaine Paris, 2007

Yves Saint Laurent Voyages Extraordinaires, 2006 / 2007

Andr Ostier Photographies,2006

Yves Saint Laurent Smoking Forever,2005 / 2006

Robert Wilson Les Fables de La Fontaine,2004 / 2005

Yves Saint Laurent Dialogue avec lart, 2004

Touring of the Yves Saint LaurentRetrospective, Petit Palais, 2010

Spain

MAPFRE Foundation, Madrid, October 2011 to January 2012

Unites States of America

The Denver Art Museum, Denver, March to June 2012

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Overseas exhibitions

Morocco

Yves Saint Laurent et le Maroc, Jardin Majorelle

Marrakech, du 27 novembre 2010 au 18 mars 2011

Yves Saint Laurent et le Maroc, Villa des Arts, Fondation ONA

Casablanca, du 15 avril au 17 juillet 2011

Brazil

Viagens Extraordinarias, Centro Cultural de Brasil

Rio, 2009

United States of America

Yves Saint Laurent Style, de Young Museum

San Francisco, 2008 - 2009

Canada

Yves Saint Laurent Style, Muse des Beaux-Arts

Montral, 2008

Spain

Dialogo con el Arte, Fondation Caixa Galicia

La Corua, 2008

Sponsorship

Palais de Tokyo : Modules Fondation Pierre Berg - Yves Saint Laurent

Paris Autumn Festival

Nuit Blanche 2010

Amis de Jean Cocteau

Jean Giono Prize

Mdiathque Musicale MahlerIFM (French Fashion Institute)

ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts)

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F d ti Pi B Y S i t L t / 5 M / 75116 P i

Blouses, Saint Laurent rive gauche, from the Spring-Summer collection 1969. Photo Sophie Carre

Saint Laurent Rive Gauche exhibition

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