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23-24F-5

Date post: 08-Apr-2016
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There’s nothing quite like being at a fashion show—the thunderous music, the flashing lights, the celebrities in the front row, the pain from standing in heels for too long—and that’s before the show even starts. Once the glamazons start marching down the catwalk, all else is lost to the beautiful bombardment of colors, cuts, prints, fabrics, and fashion. For a long time, this was the norm at Bryant Park, but it looks like the times are changing. Amy Zang
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There’s nothing quite like being at a fashion show—the thunderous music, the flashing lights, the celebrities in the front row, the pain from standing in heels for too long—and that’s before the show even starts. Once the glamazons start marching down the catwalk, all else is lost to the beautiful bombardment of colors, cuts, prints, fabrics, and fashion. For a long time, this was the norm at Bryant Park, but it looks like the times are changing. Fashion shows are so last season Amy Zang
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There’s nothing quite like being at a fashion show—the thunderous music, the flashing lights, the celebrities in the front row, the pain from standing in heels for too long—and that’s before the show even starts. Once the glamazons start marching down the catwalk, all else is lost to the beautiful bombardment of colors, cuts, prints, fabrics, and fashion. For a long time, this was the norm at Bryant Park, but it looks like the times are changing.

Fashion shows are so last seasonAmy Zang

This past September marked a decided shift in how designers presented their collections. MAC, once the official makeup partner of IMG’s twice-yearly fashion fetes, split off to team up with Milk Studios instead. The new venue, located in Man-hattan’s Meatpacking District, offered over 80,000 square feet of studios [1] for designers to transform into their dream runway . This season, a number of prominent (and generally younger) designers, including Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Erin Fetherston, and more, opted out of big shows in the tents and moved instead to show at Milk Stu-dios. Along with the move away from the tents came another change. An increasing number of designers chose to present rather than show their Spring 2010 collections. In many ways, presenta-tions do not differ much from shows—the music, lights, icons, pain, and amazing clothes are all still present. Perhaps the most important of these dif-ference lies in something that is not readily visible: cost. Runway shows require elaborate set-ups and stages, while presentations show “mannequin-like models” [2] (or even actual mannequins). The trade-off, of course, is that the clothing cannot be seen in motion, which is often the most breathtak-ing part of a show. At the same time, a presentation allows the audience to move about the room and really take in and appreciate the clothes at their own pace.

Guests can munch on hors d’ouevres, mingle amongst themselves, and revel in the atmo-sphere. It is a much more relaxed environment than a timed and choreographed show, and it is also easier (and more affordable) for the designer to fill the presentation room with the personality of the collection. For example, the Alice + Olivia presentation placed models in simple-but-ador-able cardboard images of Paris, while the French-girl band the Plasticines performed for the party and caterers offered scrumptious mini-cupcakes to the crowd. This past September seemed to serve as a trial run as designers experimented with lo-cations and format. Many designers held pre-sentations at Milk Studios, while some stayed with traditional runway shows at Bryant Park. Other designers chose neither option, and in-stead showed or presented in other studio spaces (Donna Karan), or at hotels like the Plaza (Bet-sey Johnson) or the St. Regis (Jason Wu). It is difficult to say which format is most enjoyable—most likely because they all are—but in the end, it’s about the clothes and not the presentation. If the MAC/Milk collaboration holds, the shift away from the tents may continue, particularly when the long-standing tradition of Fashion Week at Bryant Park itself moves to a new loca-tion next year. Is Lincoln Center big enough for opera and fashion divas?

[1] Milk Studios: http://www.milkstudios.com/index_mac.html[2] Cutting Costs: http://blogs.wsj.com/runway/2009/01/21/recessions-impact-on-new-york-fashion-week/


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