Chapter 3 Material of Fashion

The main content of this lesson

What is textile fibers? Textile fiber character Classification of fibers Nature Fibers

The question:what are the main material about fashion?

FibersYarnsfabrics

3.1 Textile fibers

Textile fibers exist in nature or

are created through technology.

3.1.1 What is a textile fiber?

Fiber is a long, thin strand of material.

A fiber is the smallest visible unit of any textile product.

Fibers are flexible and may be spun into yarn and made into fabrics.

3.1.2 Textile fiber character: Fineness( 细 ) Flexibility( 柔韧 ) Sufficient （充足） strength Durability( 耐用 ) to withstand conditions( 温度、湿度、压力、拉力等）

3.1.3 Classification of fibers

Natural fibers

Natural fibers are taken from animal, vegetable, or mineral sources.

Manufactured fibers

Manufactured fibers are chemically produced.

Major Classification Of Natural Fibers

NATURAL FIBERS CELLULOSE MINERAL PROTEIN asbestos   Seed Hair Bast Leaf Animal Haircotton linen wool silk kapok cashmere camel mohair

3.1.4 Natural Fibers

1.Cotton

a.History: from India and Pakistan

b. Economic importance of cotton production: Worldwide more cotton is used than any other fiber.In 1997 cotton accounted for 43% of total world fiber consumption. China was the largest producer, growing 24.3% of the world total.followed by the United States (16%), India (15%), Pakistan (9%).

c. Properties of cotton

Physical properties:

-Color:white to tan( 棕褐色 ) - Luster( 杂质 ):low

-Shape:the diameter may range from 16 to 20 microns, lumen （腰圆形）

Mechanical properties -Strength:weaker than flax and stronger than rayon( 人造丝 ), 10 to 20% stronger when wet than when dry.

-Modulus( 模量 ):high, similar to that of polyester （适合于涤纶混纺）

-Elongation and Recovery( 弹性恢复性 ): low, wrinkle( 皱 ).

Chemical reactivity: 耐碱不耐酸，烂花织物

Discussion:Talk about the use of cotton

d. Uses Widely uses.In wearing apparel, the qualities of comfort, dyeability and reasonable cost have led to its wide use in articles ranging from underwear to evening gowns （礼服） . Be blended with other fibers,such as manufactured fibers,flax and ramie.

Naturally colored cotton

2.FlaxBast fibers are those that grow in th

e stems of plants. The best known of the bast fibers is

linen, which comes from the flax plant.

a. History: from 4000B.C.countries exporting the largest quantities of linen are Poland, Ireland, China,France and so on.

b. Preparation of the fiber retting( 受潮腐烂 )three types: Dew( 露水 ) retting water retting chemical retting

c. Properties of the fiber

Color:light cream( 奶白色 ) to a dark tan( 棕色 )

Mechanical properties -Strength:one of the strongest of the natural fiber, 20%stronger when wet than when dry. -Modulus:high - Elongation and recovery( 弹性恢复率 ):low -Flexibility: stiff

d. uses Linen fabrics are found in wearing apparel and in household textiles.

3.Sheep’s wool

b. Types of wool About two hundred different breeds and crossbreeds of sheep. The sheep produces the most valuable and finest wool is the Merino( 美利奴羊 ) , 30%of wool production. Comes from Spain and the largest production in Australia.1 to 5 inches, fine and elastic. Four groups of sheep.

美利奴羊

特克塞尔羊

d. Wool harvesting and processing Shearing -In spring season -Lamb( 羔羊）’ s wool: softer and finer -Best comes from sides and shoulders. Preparation for spinning -Scouring （洗毛） -Carbonization （炭化）

g.Properties of Wool Physical properties -Color: white to creamy white to light beige, yellow, brown, and black. Easy to dye. -Shape: to 70 microns in diameter, outer layer consists of a fine network of small overlapping scales, in felting and in shrinkage

Mechanical Properties: -Weak -High elongation and recovery, -Stretch easily and low modulus Chemical Properties -Chemical reactivity ：耐酸不耐碱

h.Uses -For cold-weather clothing, winter coats, warm sweaters, and men’s and women’s suits. -In home: carpets, blankets

b. Wool consumption Worldwide the market demand for wool fibers dropped from 6% in 1977 to 3% in 1997. Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa are major producers of wool.

Homework:

Look for some knowledge about silk include history,properties and so on.