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I' 2 ST. PAUL DAILY GLOBE, SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER 22, 1885 —SIXTEEN PAGES. CLARA BELLE'S GOSSIP. The Artful Dressing Which Enables De- mure Belles to Look More Bewitching. How Dixey Eequires His Beautiful As- sistants to Completely Effaoe Themselves. New Masculine singers Who Hope and Expect to Have the World at Their X eet. The Different Embraces Bestowed Upon Mather and Anderson in Juliet. New Yor.K, Nov. 13, 1885.— This is MissDemurity Daisyville. I have made a portrait of her for several different reasons. First, she wears a costume that embodies some of the very best points in the Xovem- . ber styles. The chief fabric is the so-called homespun wool, which is so soft and saggy that, if shaped cleverly, ithas an aspect of comfortable looseness without really adding much of anything to the bulk of the per- son. Observe that there is not a square inch of skin-smooth surface visible in this suit, and yet the figure is compact, sym- metrical and The V-shaped vest of a darker color, and the trimming of Spanish lace running from the middle of her smallest girth in front up over her bosom to her shoulders, give artificial outlines of greater convexity than she actually possesses. To us she is just deceptive enough to be de- lightful to the eye, and at the same time her tender conscience is saved from that stricken condition which arises from pad- ding. She could enrapture a fellow to-day with her contour, marry him to-morrow, and yet suffer no conviction of physical falsity, for he wouldn't know how his esti- mate had been misled. Her bonnet is one of those small, quiet things that comport •well with an angelically smooth and inno- cent face. Secondly, Miss Demurity's aspect illus- trates that air of modest, complacent, im- perturbable repose which is going to be fashionable this winter. Audacity has had its day, and gentle demeanor is popu- lar now. Now, here are the par- ents of that very girl. They are making everlasting guys of themselves. Of course they had a provocation for excite- ment. They were skurryiug to catch a Hudson river boat, with the chances rather against them, and their race against time the length of the muddy wharf was a sight to grin at. The fair and placid daughter stood on deck in the attitude of a picture sweetly contemplating the wild efforts of her progenitors, but with her face un- wrinkled by the faintest, furthest wavelet from their stormy emotion. A year ago she might have displayed concern at the prospect of being started on her journey alone. But the new style of UNALTERABLE COMPOSURE had been adopted by her and she had no notion of letting any disaster render her- old-fashioned. If the boiler of the boat had burst she would have been seen rising coyly and serenely with the steam, and if she had come down to eternal smash her remains would present the quivering but still smooth and cool appearance of calf's- foot jelly. The only thing to be said against this en- forced calmness is that it raises occasional suspicions of idiocy. Speaking of stolid demeanor, I saw an audience making fun of the lour professional beauties in the bur- lesque "Adonis" because of their vacuity of prettiness and inert manners. "It is not always easy to tell exactly where censure should be visited on an un- satisfactory performance on the stage." said a veteran who sat beside me. "These girls in the burlesque are supposed to be the four daughters of a duchess, and are known as four professional beauties. They have a few lines to speak, but enough to show that they are considerably above the chorus, and that there is no doubt that they could make their parts stand out with some degree of prominence if they acted cleverly. But they don't act. Two of them look bored. another seems somewhat nervous, and the fourth has and easy-going, careless air. as if she had just walked on the stage for the fun Of the thing, and will- be very well j pleased when she gets off. Intelligent I people consider the girls uncommonly stupid I and wonder how it is that tour such obvious j automatons are employed. The explana- i nation is simple. Dixey is the star. He lias a proprietary interest. The whole aim ofhis performance is to make Dixey stand out prominently. While it is necessary oc- casionally for him to have some one to say clever things to, and to use as fools, the last thing on earth that be desires is to have anybody take the least bit of interest away from him. Dixey has the center of the j (stage on all occasions, and the four profes- I, sional beauties are ranged on either side or j among the chorus. Should one of them | dance a bit cleverly, say something bril- liantly, or in any way attract the attention ' of the audience, the point which Dixey was making at that particular time would be lost. j Hence, Mr. Dixey would suffer, and he is j not the man to suffer when he can help it. \ The constant suppression of everybody in I the cast to the elevation of a single per- i former is a good thing for the single ! performer. but it's very hard on i the other people of the troupe. The effect of keeping the four pro- fessional beauties of 'Adonis down has been rather curious. The lour originals were bright and clever, but they were j gradually held down until three of them \u25a0 left. These three are all grittingbig salaries \ and doing admirable work in other com- panies, while the sole remaining member of the original four goes placidly on her un- eventful way. and doesn't seem to care a : copper whether school keeps or not. The jealousy of theatrical people on a question of tills sort is astonishing to an outsider. If one actor has "a seene — that is, if the j lines deserve prominence and the. cxi- ! gencies of the play require that he should ] be heard to advantage— he willallow noth- Ing to interfere with his work. He must ', have tho middle <<> the stage, and the other actors must, stand near the footlights, and olftce him in that he may look toward the j \ pressed? Now, it was different with An- derson. She is Idiisr and thin. Her Romeo's hands lapped far over each other acn Si her clavicle, and then crossed easily to opposing sides of her lumbar vertebne. Her illium was somewhat contorted, and ; her hands dangled from the carpuses. 1 i hope I have made the essential contrasts of Fthe two actresses plain.— Clara Belle, in I Cincinnati Enquirer. \f /? / ll Question when you adver sOUMSk tisi The Oi.obe sends back a thousand quick replies. The 'Wormy Jektnut. A Ice man plumber poet, pie: stove- pipe, short-cake, fishing lie; Tough spring chicken, roller skate; Barber. lovers on the gate; Turkey, ice cream. girl and hash: Tramp. clam chow- der, oil can's flash; Watermelon, empty ! pun: Lent umbrella, coalman's ton; Uncle, niother-in-.'aw and twins: Big Chicago feet, bentpins:Easter bonnet,circusclown:Drum- niers. 'skeeters. hairless crown; Picnic board- inir.hise-ball.dnde: Hotel clerk andhackman rnde;Bank cashier, book agent.goahHoeking ulster overcoat; Lightning-rod man, church j fair stew: "Is it hot enough for you?" Hair i !n butter. Thomas cats: Leap year, mule, gas j meter, flats; Snow, banana peel and lodge; Hornet, cornet, H. C. Dodge. . — Chicago Sun. II I the times may be quite often; i// U I LA Advertise and see them soften. THE WOMAN'S GLOBE. The Popularity of a Man Dressmaker in New York Who "is English, You Know." ' \u25a0"" ~ ' • \u25a0' Tie Sparkling Diamonds Which Mrs. Stanford Will Wear at the Na- ' A Y tional Capital. The Romantic History of a Chicago Woman Who was a Cardinal's Sweetheart, j ''',\u25a0-,•'. Various Matters Which Appeal to the Interest of . Sweethearts and Wives. V The man milliner. , New York, Nov. 21. — "Come with : me and see how a man dressmaker tits a gown," said a friend. We went up the stone stairs just south of Delmonico's, over which a strip of rich red carpet was spread, and entered Redfern's. As my friend was not rolling in wealth 1 marveled. Redfern gowns cost something. "Yes," she said, in answer to my expres- sion of astonishment, "this is the path of high prices, but it leads to perfect fits, I would rather have one gown that fits well than half a dozen that I'm not sure of." "And will you be sure of this one?" "Oh, it's English, so English, you know," she ; replied I with a laugh. "Do you sup- pose the tailor to her majesty the queen, the Princess of Wales, the rest of the Guelph family and ever so many other royal highnesses can err?" To be sure, there was the British coat of arms over the door, and as soon as we got inside there was the English accent on every tongue, the "Neo, madames," and "Yeys, madames," of the native Britishers in all their pnrity. Everything was Eng- lish, from the small servitor in red and gold livery at the door to the managers them- selves, who are quite young men. But it was all very agreeable English. Everybody was polite, without being effusively so. Every employe knew her duties, and dis- charged them withthe utmost courtesy and dignity. We went up stairs to a fitting room- there are thirteen of them — and the fitting process began. The fitter wore a gown of brocaded silk so snug that 1 wondered how she could use her arms so rapidly and skill- fullyas she did. She pinned the garment into shape on my friend's handsome figure with a dexterity absolutely stunning to a looker-on. There was no waiting to begin operations. She was ready at the instant appointed, and when it came to fixinga time for the second and last trying on she had no voice in the matter except to say: "Suit yourself, madaine." And how the shears flew around the neck and armholes of that basque, cutting and slashing, apparently reckless of conse- quences, yet making no mistakes. An as- sistant — there is one to every fitting room, clad in blue and gold livery — the lady on and off with her clothing, and hands the fitter pins, scissors and other necessary im- plements of crucifixion. I went to the second fitting, for then the man was to assist. The gown was almost completed, the sleeves in, the skirt hung. It was put.on and one of the liedfern broth- ers called in. He gave it a comprehensive glance, walked around the lady, stopped, took hold of it and pinched in a seam till the waist was as taut as a drum head. "It must be tighter here," he said, and he spoke as one having authority. "But madame doesn't want it very snug," said the fitter. Madame herself spoke up. "I think my shoulders are too broad to have my waist narrowed too much, and then you know we American women don't lace like the Eng- lish, do we?" The young man parried the question. Madame continued: "English ladies do lace, don't they?" . "Yes, they lace," he said, loyally trying to dodge particulars on that subject. But there is no dodging the fact. We hear no end of twaddle about the comfortable and healthful garments ofEnglish women, but they are death on corset strings. Wherever you see them in swell attire you willsee bodies laced and stayed and whale- boned till they look like hour-glasses. Another English dressmaker told me that English women frequently wore their gowns so tight that a tool like an enormous shoe-buttoner was necessary to make them meet at all. I asked the Redfern fitter how it was. Sj*e smiled and admitted that she had known similar cases, and indeed her own gown could only have been brought together by forceful persuasion. Ameri- can women are not prone to tight lacing, but they are the fussiest in the world ; to work for. The sleeves, the skirt, the drapery of the new garment were all inspected by the young man and pronounced good, and the business of fitting, usually so wearisome, was done. And the gown! It was, in- deed, a beauty in its quiet elegance, giving its wearer the distingue look which only a tasteful garment can give to the most beautiful woman. And what was it? Only a black English serge, with a little silver braiding on the collar and around the wrists, and small silver buttons down the front of the basque. It was a genuine tailor-made gown, if there ever was one. The tails of the basque were stiffened, stitched and pressed like a coat, and it showed plainly that the hand of the tailor was over all. The skirt was kilt-plaited below, and finished with a long, graceful drapery brought high on one side. Yes, and ithad springs in it, and a cushion for the basque to rest on, and it was somewhat heavier than thistle-down. Yes, that was all, but the effect was a transformation. A jealous little woman who sat at the same table at the hotel where my friend boarded, quite lost her appetite from sheer envy when she first saw the gown on its owner. And its price? Only $150, everything furnished. High! It sounds so, doesn't it? They tell graphic tales of the Redfern's prices. Perhaps that is why the swell peo- ple of Fifth avenue and the gigmanity of Newport will wear nothing that hasn't his stamp upon it. They value most what costs them most. I heard a story of a woman going there to ask what they would charge for making a gown if she furnished the material. - Eighty dollars was the calm reply. Itis very odd that we Americans, who are always boasting of our originality, freedom and independence, are never happy unless we have a monarchy to pat- tern after in dress and social custom. We used to want everything French, but that was when France was an empire. Now that is a Republic, we are "English, so English, so dreadfully English, you know," because we are such snobs that we must have a court somewhere to imitate. And so these English tailors for women came over here and in less than a year have an establishment here, in, Newport and Saratoga, in addition to their houses in Lon- don, Paris and Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, j where the original house was located in — and are quoted and patronized in a way that even Worth might envy. A house ! onBroadway stores their goods, which are j all , imported. They employ 400 workers, men and women, sixty of whom live in the house. They do all their own designing, and pattern after nobody. \ Young ladies are continually engaged . in copying these designs; others in mailing them to the orders that are constantly coming in. Sparkling* Diamonds. Philadelphia Times. They are now calling the houses on the north side of Farragut square, in Washing- ton, "Millionaires' Row," because one of the three is to be the winter residence of Senator Stanford of California, and the next one that of Congressman Scott, of Erie, and the third is occupied by the offi- cial representative of "all the Russias," who is also believed to be rich in his own right. Senator and Mrs. Stanford will not take possession of their house until the second week in December. Few, even among the royal families of Europe, have more valuable diamonds than Mrs. Stan- ford. One who can speak authoritatively says her diamonds are valued at 81.000,000. Her husband bought four sets of diamonds for her when . the valuables of Queen Isa- bella 'of , Spain were '\u25a0» sold .; in £ : Paris and paid upwards of 8600,000 for the four. One set is of the stones ?. known as . "blue audience while he addresses them, so that if one of them raises a baud, makes a motion, or succeeds in the faintest degree in attracting the attention of the audience, there is a scene the instant the men are out of sight of the audience. It is usually a seen* of some vehemence, too, for an actor is very joalous of what he considers his in a matter of this sort." ITIS A DELICATE MATTER to settle which masculine idiot is the least objectionable — the one who mimics the French or the one who mimics the English. There is a tenor who might be lovely,but he regale^ American audiences with the most astonishing exhibition of Frenchy effeminacy one could imagine. He is play- ing the part of a soldier in a comic opera company, and in order to look pretty ho pencils his eyes, paints his face with a d«- gree of elaboration that puts the women on the stage to shame, and reddens his lips with some chemical preparations. He rolls his eyes about, simpers, gazes with half- impertinent admiration at the ladies who happen to be sitting in boxes, and when not engaged in singing and rollinghis eyes, he tries the effect of holding his mouth half- open so as to show his teeth and his lipa. Then he falls to studying and admiring his finger nails, and so on interminably. The extraordinary charm which a theat- rical life seems to have on people is il- lustrated in the case of three brothers. The oldest of them was a concert singer about a year aso, and he made considerable money, while his time was nearly always his own. He affected at that time to have agreat con- tempt for theatrical people, and, indeed, held a position that may be called some- what superior to that of the ordinary tenor of a comic opera company. His voice is pure, resonant and agreeable, and he began to attract the attention of theatrical man- agera Finallyhe was offered a position, took it, and became a full-Hedged tenor within a month. His family, which was well known in New York, looked at this de- parture more or less in the light of a dis- grace, anil there was considerable talk about it. He had not been on the stage six months, however, before his brother, who had si lucrative and promising position in Wall street, bought an interest in a Brook- lyn theater, and embarked on the perilous sea of theatrical management. The young- est brother was, I believe, a bookkeeper or something of that sort, and studied singing more as an accomplishment than anything else. He discovered that he had a really remarkable baritone voice, and he, too, is getting ready for the stage, and will, it is said, make his debut shortly. Anew baritone has appeared, who mas- querades under the name of Celli. The most interesting thing about him is the re- markable resemblance be bears tothe prize- fighter, Paddy Ryan. He is a man of inde- pendent property, and HE SINGS because lie is fond of the stage and has a good voice. He amuses a good many men byhis affectation, It is by no means a vio- lent one, but is rather odd for New York. He is constantly followed by a valet, or buttons, a small boy who carries in his hand the music roll of Mr. Carleton, other- wise known as Signor Celli. Ina free country, of course, it is every man's privi- lege to choose his servants as he sees fit, but it is certainly amusing to see a sort of Paddy Ryan stalk along the streets with a teu-year-old boy in blue cloth and brass buttons tagging at his heels. He stand six feet two inches in height, weighs. I should judge, about 250 pounds, and carries himself like a grenadier. Prob- ably with the paint, powder and other ad- juncts of the stage, he will turn out to be quite an attractive person to the ladies, at least when he struts in as a full-fledged opera singer. INDICATIONS are to the effect that the fanciful materials for millinerywhich came out in the opening of the season are being ignored to a great extent, and that prime favoritism is des- tined to rest upon the plain rich velvets and plushes, while in many models these are studded with beads. Bead galloon as a bor- dering for the brims of bonnets and a baud of galloon laid across the top, are the dis- tinguishing features of some of the latest that have been brought out. A novelty in bonnets is shown in productions of felt cut in narrow strips, and these strips braided in the fashion of the rough-and-ready aud rough satin straw braids. The effect is good, and these bonnets will be much worn with tho homespun and other rough cloth costumes. The shapes that have come out are of modified cottage style, approaching the medium size, with the brim somewhat uplifted. They are faced with velvet, and iv some models have a puffed and slightly projecting facing, and are trimmed with wide purl-edged faille Francaise, satin or velvet ribbon, fashioned into a large bow on the top, with or without a split bird Or a monture of fancy feathers, and ribbon strings passing around the base of the crown. Late capote shapes have come out in two pieces, the sides joining ma seam, which runs from the edge of the brim to the base of the crown, the sides in making being covered separately, and the seam covered with a band of passementerie or other trimming. THE USUAL EXAGGERATION of the millinery styles are seen, for some girls are never satisfied to keep within the prescribed bounds as to size. Here are three drawings that I made on the edge «. nf n thpntpr \u25a0nrnirrsitn I>l (I UlCillCl | 'II 1(1111 at a matinee, while the awful construc- tions were completely obscuring my view of the stage. There is an awful lot of hugging every evening close by Union Square. Two Juliets are perform- ing in adjacent thea- ters — Margaret Mather and Mary An- ders on. 1 have watched their scenes of farewell to their Romeos, and am pre- pared to describle the embracure exactly. Both get a convul- sive clasp in the arms of their surreptitious husbands, Mather is short and thick, Her Romeo , is not long- armed, either, and I observed that, when lie enfolded her to his utmost; one hand was spread over her fem- orel plexus, while the other covered her in- tercostal nerve on the opposite side. His face was snuggled for an instant on her caro- tid, and her epigas- trum was visibly.de- diamonds," as they emit violetrays by day; another has pink rays in its stones; the third set is of yellow diamonds, as yellow as topaz, and the fourth is of flawless white stones. Each set has a tiara or necklace pendant, brooch, ear-rings, from four to six bracelets and some linger rings, all of the same style of niako and of correspond- ing stones. In addition to these Mrs. Stanford lias some genuine black diamonds, cut pear-shaped, and numerous other dia- mond ornaments in a variety of styles. One necklace (not belonging to any of the sets above named) is valued at $100,000 and its pendant at $:?0,000. She has over sixty diamond finger rings, which she keeps on a string of black tape. To accommodate all tlii'.sl jewels she has a case, which was made to order, of steel, with cast iron handles and burglar-proof locks. The case has a separate drawer for each set of dia- monds, and is of course nearly all the time deposited in a bank. Mrs. Stanford cares very little for these treasurers, especially since the death of her only son, whom she idolized. On one occasion, before his death, she wore nearly all her jewels at once. Itwas when a dinner was given herself and her husband by Mr. William E. Dodge of New York. She wore a black tulle dress embroidered in silver, and its draperies were clasped with ornaments made of her smaller diamonds, which she had reset especially for that occasion. She also wore tiara, rscklace, pendant, ear-rings, brooch and other ornaments of diamonds. Mrs. Stanford's own niece, lately Miss Jeannie Montreth Wilson Lathrop, daughter of Mrs. Daniel Lathrop, who was married in Albany, her home, on Nov. 5, to Col. George P. Lawton of Troy, came at once with her husband to Washington and spent a few days. The diamonds presented to her at her wedding probably exceed in number and value those which caused the fashion- able wedding of a New York lady and a Cuban a quarter of a century ago to be called "The Diamond Wedding." Senator and Mrs. Stanford's present was a necklace composed of sixty-six large diamonds and bracelets to match. The bride's mother gave her a pair of very large solitaire dia- mond ear-rings. Her sister, who will prob- ably spend the winter in Washington with Mrs. Stanford, who being now childless wishes to adopt her, gave the bride three diamond stars, and the groom's tather gave her a diamond crescent with a pendant star. The groom sent her a ring set with a large diamond between two sapphires of equal size and accompanied it by a deed of giftof a house with handsome grounds. Inaddi- tion numerous presents of silver and gold for household use, fine engravings and bric- a-brac were sent her. liedfern Specialties. TYPICAL EEDFEBN FIT. AN ENGLISH NOVELTY. A THING OF LINES AND BEAUTY. A Cardinal's Sweetheart. The Chicago Inter-Ocean tells this story of Cardinal McCloskey's early love: In the death of Mrs. Parmelia Crane, aged 92, Chicago has lost a most remark- able character, She was born at Truro, Mass., and at the age of 15 married Mr. Charles Adams, a distant connection of John Quincy Adams. Her husband was captain and part owner of the Ploughboy, a sailing vessel running between Boston and Baltimore. In those days a trip of such a character was considered a risky undertak- ing, 'and much anxiety was felt for the safety of voyagers. At the age of 19 she was taken to Baltimore by her husband and placed in care of an old family friend, while he was to make another trip to Boston and back. While on the way a terrible gale sprung up, during which the Ploughboy, with its captain and all hands, went to the bottom. At the house in which she resided in Baltimore were quite a num- ber of young people, who were fond of pleasure, and who made the honse resound with their merry-making. Her great sor- row at the fate she felt had befallen her husband moved her to seek a quieter abode, and the place selected for her by her hus- band's friends was none other than theresi- dence of the mother of Cardinal McCloskey, who lived a retired widow with her sou. The cardinal was then preparing for the priesthood. The two women became en- deared to each other, and the young stu- dent, itis said, looked with favoring eyes upon the youthful widow. Being one of the most studious of young men, his attentions to Mrs. Adams were marked by a quaint but most sincere retrard. So far did he forget for the mo- ment his theological prospects that he pro- posed for the hand of the widow in mar- riage. In speaking of the affair in after time, Mrs. Crane used to comment upon the depth of devotion the young student evinced for her. She not being of the same faith, he Intimated their difference in the matter of religion need be no bar. as in the event of her consent, he would arrange that matter satisfactorily. "So," the old lady would say through my declin- ation of his proposal the Catholic church gained one of its most notable dignitaries." Mrs. Crane's death calls to mind the fact that she was a niece of Queen Fanny Young Kekelaokahan of the Sandwich Islands, Queen Fanny being the mother of Queen Emma, who died some years ago. Share This "With Your Cook. Chicago Herald: Game chickens are good for other purposes than fighting. The proud carriage and symmetry of form Is beautiful to behold. Their eggs are of the finest flavor and so is their flesh. New York Post: An excellent way to cook venison cutlets is to melt a pint of current jelly with sufficient butter in a stew pan; lay the venison cutlet in, seasoning withsalt and let stew ton ruinnta«. Adda glass of Madeira or sherry; pour the gravy over the cullet wlieubrought to the table. The Cook: Cold venison or mutton may be deliciously cooked over on the dinner- table in a chafiing-dish by making a sauce of a little broth, a glass of claret, pepper, salt, currant jelly, and at the last moment a bit of mustard stirred in, and then let the meat steam in it for a moment until thoroughly hot. New York Star: Anyrange is capable of providing a clear, bright fire. To assure this, all the live coals should be raked to the front and the back of the fire filled in loosely with fresh coal. For such a fire a close estimate is fifteen minutes a pound for underdone beef and twenty minutes a pound for well cooked. The meat should be frequently basted with its own drippings, aud, better still, with a little stock of gravy. Evening Post: Oyster crabs are $2 a quart; they are dear because sometimes a hundred oysters will be opened without find- ing a crab. They are delicate and sweet prepared on large oyster shells. Dried and grated bread crumbs should be used instead of cracker crumbs with them, the latter be- ing too soggy. Toss the crabs lightly among the bread crumbs, cover with bits of sweet butter, and season with mace or nut- meg and a dash of cayenne. Bake in oyster half-shells until brown; garnish each portion with a slice of fresh lemon. Lay every shell on a small plate and surround with sea-weed when serving. It sea-weed cannot be had. a green moss can be pur- chased at the florist's, which makes a suit- able mat for each shell. Where Kentucky Excels Boston. The following paragraph has had the run of the papers: A Kentucky congressman's pretty daugh- ter visited Washington recently. She went up to President Cleveland upon the occa- sion of a White house reception, and said: 'Til bet a horse you don't know who 1 am." The president was equal to the oc- casion. "No," said he, "I don't know who you are, but I'll bet a horse you are from Kentucky." "Shake," said the young lady, and she has been on good terms with the president ever since. Now, it must be remembered, says the Kansas City Journal, that as long as the lady had a horse to bet she represented the elite ofKentucky and was a specimen of its culture, stable culture, we might re- mark. How different it would have been had she been a Boston girl. She would have said: "I venture to indulge in the unflattering belief that your excellency will fail to accord to me that recognition which the vanity of woman is supposed to demand after having been seen by anyone, and es- pecially by one occupying the exalted posi- tion you honor. In fact, Mr. President, I am willingto wager a complete set of the 'Cyclopaedia Brittanica' that my name has escaped from the recesses of your memory." There are different kinds of "culchaw," and we bet that the majority of mankind would give the cake to tiie Kentucky lass. Neat Thing's for Billets-Doux. Uncut edges are the correct thing in sta- tionery just now. Parchment paper, more suitable for missal work than stationery, is now the fashion. Pretty blotters for presents are made by painting some little scene on the corner. Many of these bear a winter scene that is very pleasing. Mourning stationery bears a heavy crape edge upon only two sides, and some with perforated handkerchief edge in black and white stripes is extensively used. Everything old-fashioned has been re- vived in stationery. Sealing-wax outfits come in every variety of style and of every difference in cost. Some In plush cases with a match box formed of the body of a turtle iv brass, with a candlestick mounted upon its back, with a brass paper knife bearing the seal at the end of the handle, and sealing wax candles and every- thing complete for $10.50. while smaller sets are made in tho form of trays, made often in leaf form, having a small flower candlestick with receptacles for candle- sticks and sealing-wax. Combined letter paper and envelope, introduced probably as a fit accompaniment of the sealing outfits, is one of the relics of the days when en- velopes were not invented, or, at least, not in general use. For Dainty Hands and Nimble Feet. A new style of gloves of the mousque- taire Suede variety shows the long tops covered with chenille dots of a slightly darker shade than the glove. These are in lengths of eight to twenty buttons. Of dress or wedding gloves, the newest are finished with lace insertions in several rows around the long wrists between bands of kid. Those with Escurial lace tops pre- sent a novelty in being hand-painted in del- icate tints. A caprice in hose shows these articles en- twined by snake forms, hideous to behold as snakes in boots, but costly, and accord- ingly a coveted object. The insertion of the snake pattern, winding about and with head resting on the instep, with bead eyes and protruding fangs, is done by hand, the value of the hose being 818 per pair. A more quiet style is in black silk, with rose patterns in gold, bronze, jet. silver and steel, costing from 88 to SlO. while those with silk embroidery in daisy or other pat- tern are of more refined style, of which the favored colors are pale green, with rose, black, orange and Nile green. That horror which we are assured is a Parisian fashion, the embroidered snake on silk stockings, is the worst that has ever been attributed to that much maligned cen- ter of fashion. However, if we must adopt the snake let us have the striped moc- casin of the Savannahs, as for foot covering it wouldbe the most appropriate as well as most ornamental. The Birds Aidin Beauty's Wiles. Leaves formed in tiny feathers, in green and brown, are seen as ornaments for bon- nets this season. Sometimes crimson aud gold feathers are arranged to resemble autumn leaves. The brilliant pheasants' feathers have taken the place of tinseled feathers onmany of the latest bonnets, and come mixed in with a variety of other feathers to make up what might be called "combination birds." The grebe, whose feathers have not been seen in the market very much of late years, is exhibiting his beautiful plumage for various purposes of use and ornamenta- tion this season. Hats, muffs and the trimmings for street costumes are some of the uses to which the silvery grebe i» put. Among the fashionable millinery there are some feather hats composed of the bril- liant plumage of different birds. These, although not worn except on cold days, particularly when of the brilliant African Impeyan pheasant or the breast of the golden pheasant. Fans are very large this season, many of the most beautiful being formed of curled ostrich plumes, with pearl or enameled sticks finely cut or ornamented, while others are formed of short pheasants' feathers in gold and black, arranged in waved lines around the upper part of the fan. These are somewhat smaller and are very expensive, being all the way from 825 to §50. Hand-painted designs on satin con- stitute the decorations found on many of those of a moderate price. Enemies of Papa's Pocketboolt. Diamonds in cluster setting are again fashionable, both for rings and pins. Crape stone jewelry is much worn for mourning and is made in a variety of de- signs. Itis durable and tasteful. Buttons, buckles and clasps are also made ofit. The topazes which in our grandmother's days were held precious are again being set and worn. Rubbed silver is again in fashion and very beautiful. It is particularly for tureens aad water pitchers. A leather watch chatelaine or an antique coin watch-guard is now the possession of all fortunate school girls. Double-drop earrings are coming again into fashion. This is an adoption from the Indian idea except that as being more civ- ilized we wear two drops in one hole in the ear instead of one drop in each of two holes in one ear, as do the Western Indians. Don't Despair! ss Those who freely try the "Wants." PEN PICTURES. An Express Agent and Manager inEarly Days— Three Million Dollars Transported. George Seibert and Twenty-Six Years of Hia Extremely Busy Mu- sioal Life. A Popular Dry-Goods Man and a Plodding Reporter for a Daily Paper. A County Attorney and How He Succeeded InClimbing Up Inthe World. .copyrighted by T. M. Newson.] E. F. WARNER. Mr. Warner is a gentleman of quiet char- acteristics, and yet a man of excellent busi- ness qualities. I remember him twenty- eight years ago as tho manager of the Northwestern Express company, and here he was master of the situation, conducting his affairs iv a prompt and higlily-creditable manner. He is a man of ordinary size, well- proportioned physically, prompt, yet cool and decided, never frustrated ami managing his affairs in his own peculiar, prudent way. He was born inNew York in L 886; was educated at tho common schools and also at the Genesee Weileyan college, and came to St. Paul in 1857; was employed by J. C. Burbank as manager of the Northwestern Express company and made his run the first winter from St. Paul to Prairie dv Ciiien. embracing nearly 50,000 miles in the aggre- gated various trips he made. When the American Express company se- cured the territory south- of St. Paul, Mr. Warner entered into its serv- ices, and finally became superintendent of the division, controlling 233 offices, 3G messengers and 291 employes. Mr. Warner came into the field when dog trains, Red river carts, stages and steam- boats were the channels of communication from one place to another, but now these are all ignored and the fastest trains are employed to rush express packages from one place to another. He lias had some twenty-five years of express experience, and ifany man can take packages safely through into another world Warner can do it. although just now he is engaged in an- other business, and has no inclination to explore the moon. AX ILLUSTRATION. In February of the winter of 1857-8 all the lower country was flooded with water, but Mr. Warner was bound to get through, so he procured scows, and boats, and horses, and many times fording the rivers in skiffs, he arrived at a place where he chartered four oxen at a cost of $30, and by swimming and wading them they brought him on to solid ground, and he made his way rapidlT to St. Paul, six hours behind time, but a full week in advance of the mail. Business men received their documents, the editors the news, and oysters, which cost 81.25 per can, were sound and delicious! Mr. Warner informs me that during the war Gen. Fremont made a requisition on Gen. Pope, then stationed in this city, for $3,000,000, and the funds were forwarded to him by express — charges 5i, 700. During the time Mr. Warner was mana- ger of the Northwestern Express company not a package was lost. Some mouey was missed but recovered. Mr. Warner resigned his position as man- ager of the express company in ISB2, and the same year commenced dealing in furs, which he continued to do for twelve months, and in 1883 entered largely into the lumber- ing trade, which he now carries on quite extensively. He also commenced the buy- ingof buffalo bones on the prairie, and shipped East last year 100 carloads, or 1,500,000 pounds, to be used as a fertilizer. Buffalo horns are not marketable now, as celluloid takes their place. BIG FARMING. At one time Mr. Warner was the mana- ger of the Rock County Farming company, which owned 23,000 acres. Last year it cropped 6.000 bushels of wheat. The length of the turf broken in one day on this company's property would reacli from here to Chicago, or 416 miles. Twenty break- ing teams of twenty-three-horse power each broke twenty miles per day. Mr. Warner is very fond of hunting and has been the president of the sportsmen's club, and has also been quite active in securing laws to protect game, holding to the theory that if people come here and find good hunting they willalso invest in our real estate. He is a well-preserved man, pleasant in his waj's, moderate in his movements and con- servative and closely devoted to business. GKOKGE SKIIiEKT. Mi*. Seibert was born in Germany in 183(5; received a good common-school edu- cation and emigrated to America in 1849, lauding at New York and remaining there six years, during which time he was in a grocery store and commenced the study of music, and he is indebted to his brother-in- law, Frank Danz, for his first musical les- sons. He soon after became connected with a roving musical combination or circus as one of the musicians and traveled quite extensively, when the combination broke up, and in 1855 he removed to Chicago, where he remained two years, giving his time exclusively to playing iv the Light Guard band, studying music, etc. He came to St. Paul in 1857 aud opened a cigar and fruit store in a little building which stood on the corner of Fifth and Jackson streets, and here he paid 817 per month rent. lie continued in this kind of business for four years, when he made up his mind that lie would drop peanuts and candy and cigars and ginger snaps and go back to iiis favorite profession of music, so he sold out and commenced to teach bands of music how to get harmony from their brass instru- ments, and he succeeded admirably. From that time, 1860, up to the present he has been engaged in music; has been the leader of the Great Western band since 1863, and leader of Seibert's orchestra an equal num- ber of years: was leader of the musical so- ciety for twelve years of which the late Charles Scheffer was a prominent member; was treasurer of the same sixteen years; has played in various bands for twenty-six years, thus placing him away up on the top round of the ladder in the musical world. Some four years ago the professor was thrown from a carriage and his knee-cap in- jured, which causes him to walk a little lame, and then for a year or two his health failed him, so that he was obliged to give up a good deal of his favorite work, but he is all right again now. PERSONAL. Mr. Seibert is not a large man, nor Js he a small one, but he is a man who has done an enormous amount of labor in the musical world; has fought against adverse circum- stances and has conquered. He is very quiet in his ways; rather retiring m his dis- position, but is always prompt in his musical career, and unceasing in his efforts to group together and hold the many musical elements at his command. He has brought up an excellent family of children, and is himself a man against whom no evil word can be spoken; an honest, honorable, worthy citizen; a first-class musician, whose constant efforts have done much to advance the musical tastes of our citizens. A. H. LINDEKE. Mr. Lindeke was born in Germany in 1844; emigrated to America in 1856, locat- ing in Sheboygan, Wis., and came to St. Paul in 1857; was employed in the store of N. W. Kittson in 1859 as bundle boy, and remained with Mr. Kittson's partner until 1867; then was engaged by Cathcart <Sb Co. about one year, when he started in business for himself, having two partners; in 1872 he purchased his partners'. interest and his brother became associated with him, the firm being A. H. Lindeke & Bro. This establishment was carried on as a retail Btore until 1881; in 1878 the firm of Lindekes, Warner &Schurmeier was formed and soon took rank as among the first wholesale dry goods stores in the state, and is still in existence. It does a business of $3,000,000 per year. Mr. Lindeke has never held any political offices, but at present occupies the position of vice presi- dent of the Jobbers' union. HIS PERSONALITY. Mr. Lindeke is a fine-looking man, Justin the prime of life, with black hair and whiskers, and a good complexion. He is oolite in his bearings, social, always the gentleman, and is one of the best posted dry-goods men in the Northwest. He has had a remarkable career, climbing up from a bundle boy by the force of his own exer- tions to that of an important member of a great firm, and he deserves everthing he has and a great deal more. As a man, lie is cool, honest, honorable, anxious to do right; as a citizen, there is none better; as a business man, ho ranks high; as a com- panion, he is genial and pleasant; as a gen- tleman, he has no superior. ALEXANDER, JOHNSTON. Mr. Johnston was born inOrange county, New York, in 1833, aud is the descendant of three nationalities; received an academic education, and when nineteen years old en- tered as a clerk in a mercantile house On the death of his grandfather he received quite a liberal sum of money; visited Minne- sota in1858; returned East; again came to Minnesota in 1856 aud located at a place called Okarnan, Waseca county, where, in company with his father-in-law, he invested iv a townsite and built a flouring mill. Jie then started § paper at Wilton, the county seat of Waseca. and called it the Home Views; ran it about one year, then removed to Faribault and issued a paper called the Northern Statesman; ran that two years, when he removed to St. Paul in 1857 and worked in the office of the Pioneer. In 1866 he started the Hastings Union, and continued that three years, still en- gaging in his profession as a printer. At one time he was local editor on the old Pioneer, then on the Press, then on the Pio- neer Press, the Dispatch and the Globe. He was elected register of deeds in 1876, secretary of the chamber of commerce in 1875. and was an elector on the Douglas Democratic ticket in 1859. PERSONAL. Mr. Johnston is a gentleman of medium size, very pleasant in his manner, social in his nature, and an excellent writer, but for years past he has trod the thorny path of the reporter's life. He is like many others, in a certain groove out of which itis hard to deviate, and yet he is a man of fine abilities, kind-hearted, amiable and gener- ous in his nature. He is a strong Democrat and has always been so, and is deserving of a comfortable office at the hands of the party. JAMES J. EGAN. Mr. Egan was born in Jreland in 1842; emigrated to America with his parents in 1848; was educated in the public schools of New York city: came to St. Paul in 1857, at the age of 15 years; went onto a farm in Sibley county with his parents; drove an ox team for two hours, when he dropped farming and started for the city to hunt un a job; became the ofiice-boy of Jacob Mainzer. who was a real estate agent on upper Third street, and from thence en- tered the drug store of J. W. Bond; re- mained with him two years; then went East for an education, and at the end of three years graduated at the Wisconsin col- lege; studied law with I. V. D. Heard; en- listed as a private in the so-called Eighth Irish regiment; on the outbreak of the Indians went to the front volun- tarily, discarding his enlistment in the Eighth regiment; became second lieutenant in Jo Walker's cavalry company; went to Fort Ridgely with Gen. Sibley; company disbanded at the fort; enlisted in Joe An- derson's cavalry company; was ordered out as an escorting party to Red Wood agency; encamped under the direction of Joe Brown at Birch Coolie; was engaged in the fight at that place: returned to Fort Ridgely sick and disabled and soon after came to St. Paul; entered the office of Van Etten & Officer; worked for Col. Cleary, quartermaster of Gen. Pope; entered the employ of Capt. Saunders, quartermaster, at SIOO per month, office hours from 9 to 3 p. in., a big bonanza, having previously received about $-20 per month; was clerk for Averill when provost marshal; Gen. Averill tendered him the position of first lieutenant in a Minne- sota battery; he accepted the position and went to Chattanooga; became adjutant of the regiment aud adjutant of the post; was mustered out at the close of the war, having performed houorable service; studied Jaw at Ann Arbor; returned to St. Paul in 1865; entered Smith & Gilman's office; acted at one time as secretary of the Lake Superior <fc Minnesota Railroad company; was nominated for judge ofprobate in ISG7 — beaten; elected to the legislature in 186S; removed to Duluth in 1809; was city and county attorney of St. Louis county; was elected member ot the legislature of St. Louis county in 1875; had chanre of the harbor litigation in 1576; came to St. Paul in1877; ran for county attorney in 1878 — beaten; ran again in I*BB0 — elected, and has held the oftice ever since; was a delegate from Minnesota to the National convention in IS7I, which nominated Greeley, and voted for him; visited Washington in 1871; saw Sunnier, Trumbull, Matt Carpenter, Conkling, Saulsbury. Tipton, Schurz and others, including Edmunds, and daily at- tended the debates immediately previous to the Greeley campaign; visited J. Cooke and made his acquaintance when in the full vigor of his power, aud, for a young man, Egan has been over a good deal of ground and seen a great deal of life. PEKSONAL. Mr. Egau is an ordinary-sized man, par- tially bald, light complexion, the possessor of round, well-developed head, with an ex- ceedingly polite manner, and always has a merry twinkle in his eye. He has a pair of hinges in his back and can swing himself into the good graces of almost anybody. Probably he fell into this habit when quite young, running for office, and has kept it up ever since. He is an excellent judge of human nature and can get round a comer as easy "as greased lightning." He is a good lawyer and a good speaker, and as county attorney has given very general satisfaction. He has also good judgment and good discrimination, and while per- forming his duty has a kind heart I knew Mr. Egan when a little kid in Bond's drug store, away back in 1857 or 1858, sonu twenty years ago. and have watched hit career with interest from that day to this. The facts of his life simply demonstrate that he is a self-made man, and whatevei prominence he has attained ithas been bj his own inherent will power and industry. H« is very social in his nature — polite to every- body; accomplishes a good deal of work and what he does he does well. Very few young men have a better record, and verj few young men have a better prospectiv* future. JOHN PATTERSON. Mr. Patterson was born in Vermont is 1830; was educated in his native state and worked on a farm for ten years; in 1850 was deputy sheriff of Clinton county, New York; came to St. Paul in 1856; engaged in cutting wood, and cut two cords per day himself for two years; in 1858 was on the police force and continued there for five years; was a special detective two years; was a member of the Pioneer Hook and Ladder company and fireman five years; wag deputy sheriff two years under Grace, and aided very materially in arresting eight prisoners who escaped from jail; has caught some seventeen horse thieves and was eleven days in pursuing one man; ar- rested fifteen burglars beside the seventeen horse thieves alluded to, and has done a great deal of detective work. He was a member of the board of health as health officer in 1872, under Dr. Potts, when thera were a great many cases of small-pox, George Mott being one of the victims; h« continued health officer eight years. He helped plant the trees in Rice park, aud hauled 180 loads of sand to make mortar for the city hall. He is at present not rich and doing nothing. Mr. Patterson is a somewhat tall man and has the appearance of a person in delicate health. He is very quiet in his demeanor, and the fact that he has made no money is pretty good evidence that he has not robbed the public treasury or anybody else. He made a good health officer. The American Girl'a snout. From tbe Atlanta Constitution. There is one peculiar feature of well- bred English society that our American girls do not catch on to very readily. It if the habit of conversing in undertones, sup- pressing all br^ad and open sounds. Th« average American girl 6peaks in loud, clear tones, with a metallic ring. She is not aware that people three squares away can hear her distinctly, but she does not care a button if they do. Whether out shopping, carrying on a parlor flirtation or talking at a hotel table, the sonorous clangor of the American girl's bazoo drowns all other sounds, or rather rises above them, piercing the ambient air and shattering the nerves of all the quiet people of the vicinage.
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