I'2 ST. PAUL DAILYGLOBE, SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER 22, 1885 —SIXTEEN PAGES.

CLARA BELLE'S GOSSIP.

The Artful Dressing Which Enables De-mure Belles to Look More

Bewitching.

How Dixey Eequires His Beautiful As-sistants to Completely Effaoe

Themselves.

New Masculine singers Who Hope

and Expect to Have the Worldat Their Xeet.

The Different Embraces BestowedUpon Mather and Anderson

in Juliet.

New Yor.K, Nov. 13, 1885.— This isMissDemurity Daisyville. Ihave made aportrait of her for several different reasons.First, she wears a costume that embodies

some of the verybest points in the Xovem-.ber styles. The chief fabric is the so-called

homespun wool, which is so soft and saggythat, ifshaped cleverly, ithas an aspect ofcomfortable looseness without really addingmuch of anything to the bulk of the per-son. Observe that there is not a squareinch ofskin-smooth surface visible in thissuit, and yet the figure is compact, sym-

metrical and

The V-shaped vest of a darker color, andthe trimming of Spanish lace runningfrom the middle of her smallest girthin front up over her bosom to hershoulders, give artificial outlines of greaterconvexity than she actually possesses. Tous she is just deceptive enough to be de-lightful to the eye, and at the same timeher tender conscience is saved from thatstricken condition which arises from pad-ding. She could enrapture a fellow to-daywithher contour, marry him to-morrow,and yet suffer no conviction of physicalfalsity, for he wouldn't know how his esti-mate had been misled. Her bonnet is oneof those small, quiet things that comport•well with an angelically smooth and inno-cent face.

Secondly, Miss Demurity's aspect illus-trates that air of modest, complacent, im-perturbable repose whichis going to befashionable this winter. Audacity has hadits day, and gentle demeanor is popu-lar now. Now, here are the par-ents of that very girl. They are

making everlasting guys of themselves. Ofcourse they had a provocation for excite-ment. They were skurryiug to catch aHudson river boat, with the chances ratheragainst them, and their race against timethe length of the muddy wharf was a sightto grin at. The fair and placid daughterstood on deck in the attitude of a picturesweetly contemplating the wild efforts ofher progenitors, but with her face un-wrinkled by the faintest, furthest waveletfrom their stormy emotion. A year agoshe might have displayed concern at theprospect of being started on her journeyalone. But the new style of

UNALTERABLECOMPOSURE

had been adopted by her and she had nonotion of letting any disaster render her-old-fashioned. Ifthe boiler of the boat hadburst she would have been seen risingcoyly and serenely with the steam, and ifshe had come down to eternal smash herremains would present the quivering butstill smooth and cool appearance of calf's-foot jelly.

The only thing tobe said against this en-forced calmness is that itraises occasionalsuspicions of idiocy. Speaking of stoliddemeanor, Isaw an audience making funof the lour professional beauties in the bur-lesque "Adonis" because of their vacuity ofprettiness and inert manners.

"Itisnot always easy to tell exactlywhere censure should be visited on an un-satisfactory performance on the stage." saida veteran who sat beside me. "These girlsin the burlesque are supposed to be the fourdaughters of a duchess, and are known asfour professional beauties. They have afewlines to speak, but enough to show thatthey are considerably above the chorus, andthat there is no doubt that they could maketheir parts stand out with some degree ofprominence if they acted cleverly. Butthey don't act. Two of them look bored.another seems somewhat nervous, and thefourth has and easy-going, careless air. as ifshe had just walked on the stage for the funOf the thing, and will- be very well jpleased when she gets off. Intelligent Ipeople consider the girlsuncommonly stupid Iand wonder how itis that tour such obvious jautomatons are employed. The explana- ination is simple. Dixey is the star. Helias a proprietary interest. The whole aimofhis performance is to make Dixey standout prominently. While it is necessary oc-casionally for him to have some one to sayclever things to, and to use as fools, the lastthing on earth that be desires is to haveanybody take the least bit of interest awayfrom him. Dixey has the center of the j(stage on alloccasions, and the four profes- I,sional beauties are ranged on either side or jamong the chorus. Should one of them |dance a bit cleverly, say something bril-liantly, orin any way attract the attention'ofthe audience, the point which Dixey wasmaking at that particular time wouldbe lost. jHence, Mr. Dixey would suffer, and he is jnot the man to suffer when he can help it. \The constant suppression of everybody in Ithe cast to the elevation of a single per- iformer is a good thing for the single !performer. but it's very hard on ithe other people of the troupe.The effect of keeping the four pro-fessional beauties of 'Adonis down hasbeen rather curious. The lour originalswere bright and clever, but they were jgradually held down until three of them \u25a0

left. These three are all grittingbig salaries \and doing admirable work in other com-panies, while the sole remaining member ofthe original four goes placidly on her un-eventful way. and doesn't seem to care a:copper whether school keeps or not. Thejealousy of theatrical people ona questionof tills sort is astonishing to an outsider.Ifone actor has "a seene

—that is, if the j

lines deserve prominence and the. cxi- !gencies of the play require that he should ]be heard to advantage— he willallow noth-Ing to interfere with his work. He must ',have tho middle <<> the stage, and the otheractors must, stand near the footlights, andolftce him in that he may look toward the j

\

pressed? Now, it was different with An-derson. She is Idiisr and thin. HerRomeo's hands lapped far over each otheracn Si her clavicle, and then crossed easilyto opposing sides of her lumbar vertebne.Her illium was somewhat contorted, and

;her hands dangled from the carpuses. 1ihopeIhave made the essential contrasts ofFthe two actresses plain.— Clara Belle, inICincinnati Enquirer.

\f /? / llQuestion when you adversOUMSk tisi

The Oi.obe sends back athousand quick replies.

The 'Wormy Jektnut.A

Iceman

plumberpoet, pie: stove-

pipe, short-cake, fishing lie;Tough spring chicken, roller skate;

Barber. lovers on the gate; Turkey, icecream. girland hash: Tramp.clam chow-der, oilcan's flash; Watermelon, empty

!pun: Lent umbrella, coalman's ton; Uncle,niother-in-.'aw and twins: Big Chicago feet,bentpins:Easter bonnet,circusclown:Drum-niers. 'skeeters. hairless crown; Picnic board-inir.hise-ball.dnde: Hotel clerk andhackmanrnde;Bank cashier, book agent.goahHoekingulster overcoat; Lightning-rod man, church

jfair stew: "Isit hot enough for you?" Hairi!n butter. Thomas cats: Leap year, mule, gas

j meter, flats; Snow, banana peel and lodge;Hornet, cornet, H. C. Dodge.

.—Chicago Sun.

II Ithe times may be quite often;

i//UILA Advertise and see them soften.

THE WOMAN'S GLOBE.The Popularity of a Man Dressmaker in

New York Who "is English, YouKnow."

'\u25a0""

~ '• \u25a0'

Tie Sparkling Diamonds Which Mrs.Stanford WillWear at the Na-

'

AYtional Capital.

The Romantic History of a ChicagoWoman Who was aCardinal's

Sweetheart, j ''',\u25a0-,•'.

Various Matters Which Appeal to

the Interest of .Sweetheartsand Wives. V

The man milliner. ,New York,Nov. 21.

—"Come with:me

and see how a man dressmaker tits agown," said a friend. We went up thestone stairs just south of Delmonico's,over which a strip of rich red carpet wasspread, and entered Redfern's.

As my friend was not rolling in wealth 1marveled. Redfern gowns cost something."Yes," she said, in answer to my expres-sion ofastonishment, "this is the path ofhigh prices, but it leads to perfect fits, Iwould rather have one gown that fits wellthan half a dozen that I'mnot sure of."

"And willyou be sure of this one?""Oh, it's English, so English, youknow,"

she ;replied Iwitha laugh. "Do you sup-pose the tailor to her majesty the queen,the Princess of Wales, the rest of theGuelph family and ever so many otherroyal highnesses can err?"

To be sure, there was the Britishcoat ofarms over the door, and as soon as we gotinside there was the English accent onevery tongue, the "Neo, madames," and"Yeys, madames," of the native Britishersinall their pnrity. Everything was Eng-lish, from the small servitor in red and goldlivery at the door to the managers them-selves, who are quite young men. But itwas all very agreeable English. Everybodywas polite, without being effusively so.Every employe knew her duties, and dis-charged them withthe utmost courtesy anddignity.

We went up stairs to a fitting room-there are thirteen of them

—and the fitting

process began. The fitter wore a gown ofbrocaded silk so snug that 1 wondered howshe could use her arms so rapidly and skill-fullyas she did. She pinned the garmentinto shape on my friend's handsome figurewitha dexterity absolutely stunning to alooker-on. There was no waiting to beginoperations. She was ready at the instantappointed, and when it came to fixingatime for the second and last trying on shehad no voice in the matter except to say:"Suit yourself, madaine."

And how the shears flew around the neckand armholes of that basque, cutting andslashing, apparently reckless of conse-quences, yet making no mistakes. An as-sistant

—there is one to every fitting room,

clad inblue and goldlivery—

the ladyonand offwith her clothing, and hands thefitter pins, scissors and other necessary im-plements ofcrucifixion.Iwent to the second fitting, for then the

man was to assist. The gown was almostcompleted, the sleeves in, the skirt hung.Itwas put.on and one of the liedfern broth-ers called in. He gave it a comprehensiveglance, walked around the lady, stopped,took hold of itand pinched in a seam tillthe waist was as taut as a drum head.

"Itmust be tighter here," he said, andhe spoke as one having authority.

"Butmadame doesn't want itvery snug,"said the fitter.

Madame herself spoke up. "Ithink myshoulders are too broad to have my waistnarrowed toomuch, and then you know weAmerican women don't lace likethe Eng-lish, do we?"

The young man parried the question.Madame continued: "English ladies dolace, don't they?". "Yes, they lace," he said, loyally tryingto dodge particulars on that subject.

But there is no dodging the fact. Wehear no end of twaddle about the comfortableand healthful garments ofEnglish women,but they are death on corset strings.Wherever you see them in swell attire youwillsee bodies laced and stayed and whale-boned till they look like hour-glasses.

Another English dressmaker told me thatEnglish women frequently wore theirgowns so tight that a tool like an enormousshoe-buttoner was necessary to make themmeet at all. Iasked the Redfern fitterhowitwas. Sj*e smiled and admitted that shehad known similar cases, and indeed herown gown could only have been broughttogether by forceful persuasion. Ameri-can women are not prone to tight lacing,but they are the fussiest in the world;towork for.

The sleeves, the skirt, the drapery of thenew garment were all inspected by theyoung man and pronounced good, and thebusiness of fitting, usually so wearisome,was done. And the gown! It was, in-deed, a beauty in its quiet elegance, givingits wearer the distingue look which only atasteful garment can give to the mostbeautiful woman. And what was it? Onlya black English serge, with a little silverbraiding on the collar and around thewrists, and small silver buttons down thefront of the basque. It was a genuinetailor-made gown, if there ever was one.The tails of the basque were stiffened,stitched and pressed like a coat, and itshowed plainly that the hand of the tailorwas over all. The skirt was kilt-plaitedbelow, and finished witha long, gracefuldrapery brought high on one side. Yes,and ithad springs in it, and a cushion forthe basque to rest on, and it was somewhatheavier than thistle-down. Yes, that wasall, but the effect was a transformation.

A jealous little woman who sat at thesame table at the hotel where my friendboarded, quite lost her appetite from sheerenvy when she first saw the gown on itsowner.

And its price? Only $150, everythingfurnished. High! Itsounds so, doesn't it?They tell graphic tales of the Redfern'sprices. Perhaps that is whythe swell peo-pleof Fifth avenue and the gigmanity ofNewport willwear nothing that hasn't hisstamp upon it. They value most whatcosts them most. Iheard a story of awoman going there to ask what they wouldcharge formaking a gown if she furnishedthe material.

-Eighty dollars was the calmreply.Itis very odd that we Americans, who

are always boasting of our originality,freedom and independence, are neverhappy unless we have a monarchy to pat-tern after in dress and social custom. Weused to want everything French, but thatwas when France was an empire. Nowthat is a Republic, we are "English, soEnglish, so dreadfully English, you know,"because we are such snobs that we musthave a court somewhere to imitate.

And so these English tailors for womencame over here and in less than a year havean establishment here, in, Newport andSaratoga, in addition to their houses inLon-don, Paris and Cowes, in the Isle ofWight,

j where the original house was located in—and are quoted and patronized in a

way that even Worth might envy. Ahouse!onBroadway stores their goods, which arejall,imported. They employ 400 workers,men and women, sixtyof whom live in thehouse. They do all their own designing,and pattern after nobody. \ Young ladiesare continually engaged .in copying thesedesigns; others in mailing them to theorders that are constantly coming in.

Sparkling* Diamonds.Philadelphia Times.

They are now callingthe houses on thenorth side of Farragut square, in Washing-ton, "Millionaires' Row," because one ofthe three is to be the winter residence ofSenator Stanford of California, and thenext one that of Congressman Scott, ofErie, and the third is occupied by the offi-cial representative of "all the Russias,"who is also believed to be rich inhis ownright. Senator and Mrs. Stanford willnottake possession of their house until thesecond week in December. Few, evenamong the royal families of Europe, havemore valuable diamonds than Mrs. Stan-ford. One who can speak authoritativelysays her diamonds are valued at 81.000,000.Her husband bought four sets of diamondsfor her when .the valuables of Queen Isa-bella 'of ,Spain were '\u25a0» sold .;in£:Parisand paid upwards of 8600,000 for the four.One set is of the stones ?. known as. "blue

audience while he addresses them, so thatif one of them raises a baud, makes amotion, or succeeds in the faintest degreein attracting the attention of the audience,there is a scene the instant the men are outof sight of the audience. Itis usually aseen* of some vehemence, too, for an actoris very joalous of what he considers hisina matter of this sort."

ITIS A DELICATE MATTER

to settle which masculine idiot is the leastobjectionable

—the one who mimics the

French or the one who mimics the English.There is a tenor who might be lovely,buthe regale^ American audiences with themost astonishing exhibition of Frenchyeffeminacy one could imagine. He is play-ing the part of a soldier in a comic operacompany, and in order to look pretty hopencils his eyes, paints his face with a d«-gree of elaboration that puts the women onthe stage to shame, and reddens his lipswith some chemical preparations. He rollshis eyes about, simpers, gazes withhalf-impertinent admiration at the ladies whohappen tobe sitting inboxes, and when notengaged in singing and rollinghis eyes, hetries the effect of holding his mouth half-open so as to show his teeth and his lipa.Then he falls to studying and admiring hisfinger nails, and so on interminably.

The extraordinary charm which a theat-rical life seems to have on people is il-lustrated in the case of three brothers. Theoldest of them was a concert singer about ayear aso, and he made considerable money,while his time was nearly always his own.He affected at that time to have agreat con-tempt for theatrical people, and, indeed,held a position that may be called some-what superior to that of the ordinary tenorof a comic opera company. His voice ispure, resonant and agreeable, and hebeganto attract the attention of theatrical man-agera Finallyhe was offered a position,took it, and became a full-Hedged tenorwithin a month. His family, which waswell known inNew York, looked at this de-parture more or less in the light of a dis-grace, anil there was considerable talkabout it. He had not been on the stagesix months, however, before hisbrother, who had si lucrative andpromising position in Wall street,bought an interest in a Brook-lyn theater, and embarked on the periloussea of theatrical management. The young-est brother was,Ibelieve, a bookkeeper orsomething of that sort, and studied singingmore as an accomplishment than anythingelse. He discovered that he had a really

remarkable baritone voice, and he, too, isgetting ready for the stage, and will,itissaid, make his debut shortly.

Anew baritone has appeared, who mas-querades under the name of Celli. Themost interesting thing about him is the re-markable resemblance be bears tothe prize-fighter, Paddy Ryan. He is aman of inde-pendent property, and

HE SINGS

because lie is fond of the stage and has agood voice. He amuses a good many menbyhis affectation, Itis by nomeans a vio-lent one, but israther odd for New York.He is constantly followed bya valet, orbuttons, a small boy who carries in hishand the music rollof Mr. Carleton, other-wise known as Signor Celli. Ina freecountry, of course, itis every man's privi-lege to choose his servants as he sees fit,but itis certainly amusing to see a sort ofPaddy Ryan stalk along the streets with ateu-year-old boy in blue cloth and brassbuttons tagging at his heels.

He stand six feet two inches in height,weighs. Ishould judge, about 250 pounds,and carries himself like a grenadier. Prob-ably with the paint, powder and other ad-juncts ofthe stage, he will turn out to bequite an attractive person to the ladies, atleast when he struts in as a full-fledged

opera singer.INDICATIONS

are to the effect that the fancifulmaterialsformillinerywhich came out in the opening

of the season are being ignored to a greatextent, and that prime favoritism is des-tined to rest upon the plain rich velvets andplushes, while in many models these arestudded withbeads. Bead galloon as a bor-dering for the brims of bonnets and abaudofgalloon laid across the top, are the dis-tinguishing features of some of the latestthat have been brought out. Anovelty inbonnets is shown in productions of felt cutinnarrow strips, and these strips braided inthe fashion of the rough-and-ready audrough satin straw braids. The effect isgood, and these bonnets willbe much wornwith tho homespun and other roughcloth costumes. The shapes that havecome out are of modified cottagestyle, approaching the medium size, withthe brim somewhat uplifted. They arefaced with velvet, and iv some models haveapuffed and slightlyprojecting facing, andare trimmed with wide purl-edged failleFrancaise, satin or velvet ribbon, fashionedinto a large bow on the top, with or withouta split bird Ora monture of fancy feathers,

and ribbon strings passing around the baseof the crown. Late capote shapes havecome out in two pieces, the sides joiningmaseam, which runs from the edge of thebrim to the base of the crown, the sides inmaking being covered separately, and theseam covered with a band of passementerieor other trimming.

THE USUALEXAGGERATION

of the millinery styles are seen, for somegirls are never satisfied to keep within theprescribed bounds as to size. Here arethree drawings thatImade on the edge

«. nf n thpntpr \u25a0nrnirrsitnI>l (I UlCillCl |'II 1(1111

at a matinee, whilethe awful construc-tions were completelyobscuring my view ofthe stage.

There is an awfullot of hugging everyevening close byUnion Square. TwoJuliets are perform-ing in adjacent thea-ters

—Margaret

Mather and Mary An-ders on. 1 havewatched their scenesof farewell to theirRomeos, and am pre-pared to describle theembracure exactly.Both get a convul-sive clasp in the armsof their surreptitioushusbands, Mather isshort and thick, HerRomeo ,is not long-armed, either, and Iobserved that, whenlie enfolded her to hisutmost; one hand wasspread over her fem-orel plexus, while theother covered her in-tercostal nerve on theopposite side. Hisface was snuggled foran instant onher caro-tid, and her epigas-trum was visibly.de-

diamonds," as they emit violetrays by day;another has pink rays in its stones; thethird set is of yellow diamonds, as yellowas topaz, and the fourth is offlawless whitestones. Each set has a tiara or necklacependant, brooch, ear-rings, from four tosix bracelets and some linger rings, all ofthe same style of niako and of correspond-ing stones. In addition to these Mrs.Stanford lias some genuine black diamonds,cut pear-shaped, and numerous other dia-mond ornaments in a variety of styles.One necklace (not belonging to any of thesets above named) is valued at $100,000and its pendant at $:?0,000. She has oversixty diamond finger rings, which she keepson a string of black tape. To accommodateall tlii'.sl jewels she has a case, which wasmade to order, of steel, with cast ironhandles and burglar-proof locks. The casehas a separate drawer for each set of dia-monds, and is of course nearly all the timedeposited in a bank. Mrs. Stanford caresvery little for these treasurers, especiallysince the death of her only son, whom sheidolized. On one occasion, before hisdeath, she wore nearly all her jewels atonce. Itwas when a dinner was givenherself and her husband by Mr. William E.Dodge of New York. She wore a blacktulle dress embroidered in silver, and itsdraperies were clasped with ornamentsmade of her smaller diamonds, which shehad reset especially for that occasion. Shealso wore tiara, rscklace, pendant, ear-rings,brooch and other ornaments of diamonds.

Mrs. Stanford's own niece, lately MissJeannie Montreth Wilson Lathrop, daughterof Mrs. Daniel Lathrop, who was marriedin Albany, her home, on Nov. 5, to Col.George P. Lawton of Troy, came at oncewith her husband to Washington and spenta few days. The diamonds presented to herat her weddingprobably exceed in numberand value those which caused the fashion-able wedding ofa New York lady and aCuban a quarter of a century ago to becalled "The Diamond Wedding." Senatorand Mrs. Stanford's present was a necklacecomposed ofsixty-six large diamonds andbracelets to match. The bride's mothergave her a pair of very large solitaire dia-mond ear-rings. Her sister, who willprob-ably spend the winter in Washington withMrs. Stanford, who being now childlesswishes to adopt her, gave the bride threediamond stars, and the groom's tather gaveher a diamond crescent with a pendant star.The groom sent her a ring set with a largediamond between two sapphires of equalsize and accompanied itby a deed of giftofa house with handsome grounds. Inaddi-tion numerous presents of silver and goldfor household use, fine engravings and bric-a-brac were sent her.

liedfern Specialties.

TYPICALEEDFEBN FIT.

ANENGLISH NOVELTY.

A THING OF LINES AND BEAUTY.

A Cardinal's Sweetheart.The Chicago Inter-Ocean tells this story

of Cardinal McCloskey's early love:Inthe death of Mrs. Parmelia Crane,

aged 92, Chicago has lost a most remark-able character, She was born at Truro,Mass., and at the age of 15 married Mr.Charles Adams, a distant connection ofJohn Quincy Adams. Her husband wascaptain and part owner of the Ploughboy, asailing vessel running between Boston andBaltimore. Inthose days a trip of such acharacter was considered a risky undertak-ing, 'and much anxiety was felt for thesafety of voyagers. Atthe age of 19 shewas taken to Baltimore by her husband andplaced in care of an old family friend,while he was to make another trip toBoston and back. While on the way aterrible gale sprung up, during which thePloughboy, withits captain and all hands,went to the bottom. Atthe house inwhichshe resided in Baltimore were quite a num-ber of young people, who were fond ofpleasure, and who made the honse resoundwith their merry-making. Her great sor-row at the fate she felt had befallen herhusband moved her to seek a quieter abode,and the place selected forher by her hus-band's friends was none other than theresi-dence of the mother of Cardinal McCloskey,

who lived a retired widow with her sou.The cardinal was then preparing for thepriesthood. The two women became en-deared to each other, and the young stu-dent, itis said, looked with favoring eyesupon the youthful widow. Being oneof the most studious of youngmen, his attentions to Mrs. Adamswere marked by a quaint but most sincere

retrard. So far did he forget for the mo-ment his theological prospects that he pro-posed for the hand of the widow in mar-riage. In speaking of the affair in aftertime, Mrs. Crane used to comment uponthe depth of devotion the young studentevinced for her. She not being of thesame faith, he Intimated their differencein the matter of religion need be no bar.as in the event of her consent, he wouldarrange that matter satisfactorily. "So,"the old lady would say through my declin-

ation of his proposal the Catholic churchgained one of its most notable dignitaries."Mrs. Crane's death calls to mind the factthat she was a niece of Queen FannyYoung Kekelaokahan of the SandwichIslands, Queen Fanny being the mother ofQueen Emma, who died some years ago.

Share This "With YourCook.Chicago Herald: Game chickens are

good forother purposes than fighting. Theproud carriage and symmetry of form Isbeautiful to behold. Their eggs are of thefinest flavor and so is their flesh.

New York Post: An excellent way tocook venison cutlets is to melt a pint ofcurrent jelly with sufficient butter in a stewpan; lay the venison cutlet in, seasoning

withsalt and let stew ton ruinnta«. Adda

glass of Madeira or sherry; pour the gravyover the cullet wlieubrought to the table.

The Cook: Cold venison or mutton maybe deliciously cooked over on the dinner-table ina chafiing-dish by making a sauceof a little broth, a glass of claret, pepper,salt, currant jelly,and at the last momenta bit ofmustard stirred in,and then let themeat steam in it for a moment untilthoroughly hot.

New York Star: Anyrange is capableof providing a clear, bright fire. To assurethis, all the live coals should be raked tothe front and the back of the fire filled inloosely with fresh coal. For such a fire aclose estimate is fifteen minutes a poundfor underdone beef and twenty minutes apound for well cooked. The meat shouldbe frequently basted withits own drippings,aud, better still, with a little stock ofgravy.

Evening Post: Oyster crabs are $2 aquart; they are dear because sometimes ahundred oysters willbe opened without find-ing a crab. They are delicate and sweetprepared on large oyster shells. Dried andgrated bread crumbs should be used insteadofcracker crumbs with them, the latter be-ing too soggy. Toss the crabs lightlyamong the bread crumbs, cover with bits ofsweet butter, and season withmace or nut-meg and a dash of cayenne. Bake inoyster half-shells untilbrown; garnish eachportion with a slice of fresh lemon. Layevery shell on a small plate and surroundwith sea-weed when serving. It sea-weedcannot be had. a green moss can be pur-chased at the florist's, which makes a suit-able mat foreach shell.Where Kentucky Excels Boston.The following paragraph has had the run

ofthe papers:A Kentucky congressman's pretty daugh-

ter visited Washington recently. She wentup to President Cleveland upon the occa-sion ofa White house reception, and said:'Tilbet a horse you don't know who 1am." The president was equal to the oc-casion. "No,"said he, "Idon't know whoyou are, butI'llbet a horse you are fromKentucky." "Shake," said the younglady, and she has been ongood terms withthe president ever since.

Now, itmust be remembered, says theKansas City Journal, that as long as thelady had a horse to bet she representedthe elite ofKentucky and was a specimenof its culture, stable culture, we might re-mark. How different it would have beenhad she been a Boston girl. She wouldhave said: "Iventure to indulge in theunflattering belief that your excellency willfail to accord to me that recognition whichthe vanityof woman is supposed to demandafter having been seen by anyone, and es-pecially by one occupying the exalted posi-tion you honor. In fact, Mr. President, Iam willingto wager a complete set of the'Cyclopaedia Brittanica' that my name hasescaped from the recesses ofyour memory."There are different kinds of "culchaw,"and webet that the majority of mankindwould give the cake to tiie Kentucky lass.

Neat Thing's for Billets-Doux.Uncut edges are the correct thing in sta-

tionery just now.Parchment paper, more suitable formissal

work than stationery, is now the fashion.Pretty blotters for presents are made by

painting some little scene on the corner.Many of these bear a winter scene that isvery pleasing. Mourning stationery bearsa heavy crape edge upon only two sides,and some withperforated handkerchief edgein black and white stripes is extensivelyused.

Everything old-fashioned has been re-vived in stationery. Sealing-wax outfitscome in every variety of style and of everydifference in cost. Some In plush caseswith a match box formed of the bodyof a turtle iv brass, with a candlestickmounted upon its back, with a brass paperknife bearing the seal at the end of thehandle, and sealing wax candles and every-thing complete for $10.50. while smallersets are made in tho formof trays, madeoften in leaf form, having a small flowercandlestick with receptacles for candle-sticks and sealing-wax. Combined letterpaper and envelope, introduced probably asa fit accompaniment of the sealing outfits,is one of the relics of the days when en-velopes were not invented, or, at least, notin general use.

For Dainty Hands and Nimble Feet.Anew style of gloves of the mousque-

taire Suede variety shows the long topscovered with chenille dots of a slightlydarker shade than the glove. These are inlengths of eight to twenty buttons.

Of dress or wedding gloves, the newestare finished with lace insertions in severalrows around the long wrists between bandsof kid. Those with Escurial lace tops pre-sent anovelty inbeing hand-painted in del-icate tints.

A caprice inhose shows these articles en-twined by snake forms, hideous to beholdas snakes inboots, but costly, and accord-inglya coveted object. The insertion ofthe snake pattern, windingabout and withhead resting on the instep, with bead eyesand protruding fangs, is done by hand, thevalue of the hose being 818 per pair.

A more quiet style is inblack silk, withrose patterns ingold, bronze, jet. silver andsteel, costing from 88 to SlO. while thosewith silk embroidery in daisy or other pat-

tern are ofmore refined style, of which thefavored colors are pale green, with rose,black, orange and Nile green.

That horror which we are assured is aParisian fashion, the embroidered snake onsilk stockings, is the worst that has everbeen attributed to that much maligned cen-ter of fashion. However, if we mustadopt the snake let us have the striped moc-casin of the Savannahs, as for foot coveringitwouldbe the most appropriate as wellasmost ornamental.

The Birds Aidin Beauty's Wiles.Leaves formed in tiny feathers, in green

and brown, are seen as ornaments forbon-nets this season. Sometimes crimson audgold feathers are arranged to resembleautumn leaves.

The brilliant pheasants' feathers havetaken the place oftinseled feathers onmanyof the latest bonnets, and come mixedin witha variety of other feathers to makeup what might be called "combinationbirds."

The grebe, whose feathers have not beenseen in the market very much of late years,is exhibiting his beautiful plumage forvarious purposes of use and ornamenta-tion this season. Hats, muffs and thetrimmings for street costumes are someof the uses to which the silvery grebe i»put.

Among the fashionable millinerythereare some feather hats composed of the bril-liant plumage of different birds. These,although not worn except on cold days,particularly when of the brilliant AfricanImpeyan pheasant or the breast of thegolden pheasant.

Fans are very large this season, many ofthe most beautiful being formed ofcurledostrich plumes, with pearl or enameledsticks finely cut or ornamented, whileothers are formed of short pheasants'feathers in gold and black, arranged inwaved lines around the upper part of thefan. These are somewhat smaller and arevery expensive, being all the way from 825to §50. Hand-painted designs on satin con-stitute the decorations found on many ofthose of amoderate price.

Enemies of Papa's Pocketboolt.

Diamonds in cluster setting are againfashionable, both forrings and pins.

Crape stone jewelry is much worn formourning and is made in a variety of de-signs. Itis durable and tasteful. Buttons,buckles and clasps are also made ofit.

The topazes which in our grandmother'sdays were held precious are again being setand worn.

Rubbed silver is again in fashion andverybeautiful. Itis particularly for tureensaad water pitchers.

Aleather watch chatelaine or an antiquecoin watch-guard is now the possession ofall fortunate school girls.

Double-drop earrings are coming againinto fashion. This is an adoption from theIndian idea except that as being more civ-ilized we wear two drops in one hole in theear instead of one drop in each of two holesin one ear, as do the Western Indians.

Don't Despair! ssThose who freely try the "Wants."

PEN PICTURES.An Express Agent and Manager inEarly

Days— Three MillionDollarsTransported.

George Seibert and Twenty-Six Years ofHia Extremely Busy Mu-

sioal Life.

A Popular Dry-Goods Man and aPlodding Reporter for a

Daily Paper.

A County Attorney and How HeSucceeded InClimbingUp

Inthe World.

.copyrighted by T. M. Newson.]E. F. WARNER.

Mr.Warner is a gentleman of quiet char-acteristics, and yet a man of excellent busi-ness qualities. Iremember him twenty-eight years ago as tho manager of theNorthwestern Express company, and herehe was master of the situation, conductinghis affairs iva prompt and higlily-creditablemanner. He is a man of ordinary size, well-proportioned physically, prompt, yet cooland decided, never frustrated ami managinghis affairs in his own peculiar, prudent way.He was born inNew York in L886; waseducated at tho common schools and also atthe Genesee Weileyan college, and came toSt. Paul in1857; was employed by J. C.Burbank as manager of the NorthwesternExpress company and made his run the firstwinter from St. Paul to Prairie dv Ciiien.embracing nearly 50,000 miles in the aggre-gated various trips he made. Whenthe American Express company se-cured the territory south- of St.Paul, Mr. Warner entered into its serv-ices, and finallybecame superintendent ofthe division, controlling 233 offices, 3Gmessengers and 291 employes. Mr.Warner came into the field when dogtrains, Red river carts, stages and steam-boats were the channels of communicationfrom one place to another, but now theseare all ignored and the fastest trains areemployed to rush express packages fromone place to another. He lias had sometwenty-five years of express experience,and ifany man can take packages safelythrough into another world Warner can doit. although just now he is engaged in an-other business, and has no inclination toexplore the moon.

AX ILLUSTRATION.

In February of the winter of 1857-8 allthe lower country was flooded with water,but Mr. Warner was bound to get through,so he procured scows, and boats, andhorses, and many times fording the riversin skiffs, he arrived at a place wherehe chartered four oxen at a cost of$30, and by swimming and wadingthem they brought him on tosolid ground, and he made his wayrapidlT to St. Paul, six hours behind time,but a fullweek in advance of the mail.Business men received their documents, theeditors the news, and oysters, which cost81.25 per can, were sound and delicious!

Mr.Warner informs me that during thewar Gen. Fremont made a requisition onGen. Pope, then stationed in this city, for$3,000,000, and the funds were forwardedto him by express

—charges 5i,700.

During the time Mr. Warner was mana-ger of the Northwestern Express companynot a package was lost. Some mouey wasmissed but recovered.

Mr.Warner resigned his position as man-ager of the express company in ISB2, andthe same year commenced dealing in furs,which he continued to do for twelve months,and in 1883 entered largelyinto the lumber-ingtrade, which he now carries on quiteextensively. He also commenced the buy-ingof buffalo bones on the prairie, andshipped East last year 100 carloads, or1,500,000 pounds, to be used as a fertilizer.Buffalohorns are not marketable now, ascelluloid takes their place.

BIG FARMING.

Atone time Mr. Warner was the mana-ger of the Rock County Farming company,

which owned 23,000 acres. Last year itcropped 6.000 bushels of wheat. Thelength of the turf broken in one day on thiscompany's property would reacli from hereto Chicago, or 416 miles. Twenty break-ing teams of twenty-three-horse power eachbroke twenty miles per day. Mr. Warneris very fond of hunting and has been thepresident of the sportsmen's club, and hasalso been quite active in securing laws toprotect game, holding to the theory that ifpeople come here and find good huntingthey willalso invest inour real estate. Heis a well-preserved man, pleasant in hiswaj's, moderate in his movements and con-servative and closely devoted to business.

GKOKGE SKIIiEKT.

Mi*.Seibert was born in Germany in183(5; received a good common-school edu-cation and emigrated to America in 1849,lauding at New York and remaining theresix years, during which time he was in agrocery store and commenced the study ofmusic, and he is indebted to his brother-in-law, Frank Danz, for his first musical les-sons. He soon after became connectedwith a roving musical combination or circusas one of the musicians and traveled quiteextensively, when the combination brokeup, and in 1855 he removed to Chicago,

where he remained two years, giving histime exclusively to playing ivthe LightGuard band, studying music, etc. He cameto St. Paul in1857 aud opened a cigar andfruit store ina little building which stoodon the corner of Fifth and Jackson streets,

and here he paid 817 per month rent. liecontinued in this kind of business for fouryears, when he made up his mind that liewould drop peanuts and candy and cigarsand ginger snaps and go back toiiis favoriteprofession of music, so he sold out andcommenced to teach bands of musichow to get harmony from their brass instru-ments, and he succeeded admirably. Fromthat time, 1860, up to the present he hasbeen engaged inmusic; has been the leaderof the Great Western band since 1863, andleader of Seibert's orchestra an equal num-ber of years: was leader of the musical so-ciety for twelve years of which the lateCharles Scheffer was a prominent member;was treasurer ofthe same sixteen years;has played in various bands for twenty-sixyears, thus placing him away up on the topround of the ladder in the musical world.Some four years ago the professor wasthrown from a carriage and his knee-cap in-jured, which causes him to walk a littlelame, and then for a year or two his healthfailed him, so that he was obliged to giveup a good deal of his favorite work, but heis all right again now.

PERSONAL.Mr. Seibert is not a large man, nor Js he

a small one, but he is a man whohas donean enormous amount of labor in the musicalworld; has fought against adverse circum-stances and has conquered. He is veryquiet in his ways; rather retiring m his dis-position, but is always prompt in hismusical career, and unceasing inhis effortsto group together and hold the many

musical elements at his command. He hasbrought up an excellent familyof children,and is himself a man against whom no evilword can be spoken; anhonest, honorable,worthy citizen; a first-class musician, whoseconstant efforts have done much to advancethe musical tastes of our citizens.

A. H.LINDEKE.

Mr. Lindeke was born in Germany in1844; emigrated to America in 1856, locat-ing in Sheboygan, Wis., and came to St.Paul in 1857; was employed in the store ofN. W. Kittson in1859 as bundle boy, andremained with Mr. Kittson's partner until1867; then was engaged by Cathcart <Sb Co.about one year, when he started inbusinessfor himself, having two partners; in 1872he purchased his partners'. interest and hisbrother became associated with him, thefirm being A.H. Lindeke & Bro. Thisestablishment was carried on as a retailBtore until 1881; in 1878 the firm ofLindekes, Warner &Schurmeier was formedand soon took rank as among the firstwholesale dry goods stores in the state, andis still in existence. It does a business of$3,000,000 per year. Mr. Lindeke hasnever held any political offices, but atpresent occupies the position of vicepresi-dent of the Jobbers' union.

HIS PERSONALITY.Mr.Lindeke is a fine-looking man, Justin

the prime of life, with black hair andwhiskers, and a good complexion. He isoolite in his bearings, social, always the

gentleman, and is one of the best posteddry-goods men in the Northwest. He hashad a remarkable career, climbing up froma bundle boy by the force of his own exer-tions to that of an important member of agreat firm, and he deserves everthing hehas and a great deal more. As a man, lieis cool, honest, honorable, anxious to doright; as a citizen, there is none better; asa business man, ho ranks high; as a com-panion, he is genial and pleasant; as a gen-tleman, he has no superior.

ALEXANDER, JOHNSTON.Mr. Johnston was born inOrange county,

New York, in1833, aud is the descendantof three nationalities; received an academiceducation, and when nineteen years old en-tered as a clerk in a mercantile house Onthe death of his grandfather he receivedquite a liberal sum of money; visited Minne-sota in1858; returned East; again came toMinnesota in1856 aud located at a placecalled Okarnan, Waseca county, where, incompany with his father-in-law, he investediv a townsite and built a flouring mill. Jiethen started § paper at Wilton, the countyseat of Waseca. and called it the HomeViews; ran itabout one year, then removedto Faribault and issued a paper called theNorthern Statesman; ran that two years,when he removed to St. Paul in 1857 andworked in the office of the Pioneer. In1866 he started the Hastings Union, andcontinued that three years, still en-gaging in his profession as a printer.At one time he was local editor on the oldPioneer, then on the Press, then on the Pio-neer Press, the Dispatch and the Globe.He was elected register of deeds in 1876,secretary of the chamber of commerce in1875. and was an elector on the DouglasDemocratic ticket in 1859.

PERSONAL.

Mr. Johnston is a gentleman of mediumsize, very pleasant in his manner, social inhis nature, and an excellent writer, but foryears past he has trod the thorny path ofthe reporter's life. He is like many others,ina certain groove out of which itis hardto deviate, and yet he is a man of fineabilities, kind-hearted, amiable and gener-ous in his nature. He is a strong Democratand has always been so, and is deserving ofa comfortable office at the hands of theparty.

JAMES J. EGAN.

Mr.Egan was born in Jreland in 1842;emigrated to America with his parents in1848; was educated in the public schools ofNew York city: came to St. Paul in 1857,at the age of 15 years; went onto a farm inSibley county withhis parents; drove an oxteam for two hours, when he droppedfarming and started for the city to hunt una job; became the ofiice-boy of JacobMainzer. who was a real estate agent onupper Third street, and from thence en-tered the drug store of J. W. Bond; re-mained with him two years; then wentEast foran education, and at the end ofthree years graduated at the Wisconsin col-lege; studied law withI.V.D. Heard; en-listed as a private in the so-called EighthIrish regiment; on the outbreak of theIndians went to the front volun-tarily, discarding his enlistment in theEighth regiment; became second lieutenantin Jo Walker's cavalry company; went toFort Ridgely with Gen. Sibley; companydisbanded at the fort; enlisted in Joe An-derson's cavalry company; was ordered outas an escorting party to Red Wood agency;encamped under the direction of Joe Brownat Birch Coolie; was engaged in the fight atthat place: returned to Fort Ridgely sick anddisabled and soon after came to St. Paul;entered the office of Van Etten & Officer;worked for Col. Cleary, quartermaster ofGen. Pope; entered the employ of Capt.Saunders, quartermaster, at SIOO permonth, office hours from 9 to 3p. in., a bigbonanza, having previously received about$-20 per month; was clerk for Averill whenprovost marshal; Gen. Averilltendered himthe position of first lieutenant in a Minne-sota battery; he accepted the position andwent to Chattanooga; became adjutant ofthe regiment aud adjutant of the post; wasmustered out at the close of the war, havingperformed houorable service; studiedJaw at Ann Arbor; returned to St. Paul in1865; entered Smith & Gilman's office;acted at one time as secretary of the LakeSuperior <fc Minnesota Railroad company;was nominated for judge ofprobate inISG7

—beaten; elected to the legislature in 186S;removed to Duluth in 1809; was city andcounty attorney of St. Louis county; waselected member ot the legislature of St.Louis county in 1875; had chanre of theharbor litigation in 1576; came to St. Paulin1877; ran for county attorney in 1878

—beaten; ran again in I*BB0

—elected, and has

held the oftice ever since; was a delegatefrom Minnesota to the National conventionin IS7I, which nominated Greeley, andvoted for him; visited Washington in 1871;saw Sunnier, Trumbull, Matt Carpenter,Conkling, Saulsbury. Tipton, Schurz andothers, including Edmunds, and daily at-tended the debates immediately previous tothe Greeley campaign; visited J. Cooke andmade his acquaintance when in the fullvigor of his power, aud, for a young man,

Egan has been over a good deal of groundand seen a great deal of life.

PEKSONAL.Mr.Egau is an ordinary-sized man, par-

tiallybald, light complexion, the possessorof round, well-developed head, with an ex-ceedingly polite manner, and always has amerry twinkle inhis eye. He has a pair ofhinges in his back and can swing himselfinto the good graces of almost anybody.Probably he fellinto this habit when quiteyoung, running for office, and has kept itup ever since. He is an excellent judge ofhuman nature and can get round a comeras easy "as greased lightning." He is agood lawyer and a good speaker, and ascounty attorney has given very generalsatisfaction. He has also good judgmentand good discrimination, and while per-forming his duty has a kind heart IknewMr. Egan when a little kid in Bond's drugstore, away back in 1857 or 1858, sonutwenty years ago. and have watched hitcareer with interest from that day to this.The facts of his life simply demonstratethat he is a self-made man, and whateveiprominence he has attained ithas been bjhis own inherent willpower and industry. H«is very social inhis nature

—polite to every-

body; accomplishes a good deal of workand what he does he does well. Very fewyoung men have a better record, and verj

few young men have a better prospectiv*future.

JOHN PATTERSON.Mr. Patterson was born in Vermont is

1830; was educated in his native state andworked on a farm for ten years; in1850 wasdeputy sheriff ofClinton county, New York;came to St. Paul in 1856; engaged in cuttingwood, and cut two cords per day himselffor two years; in 1858 was on the policeforce and continued there for five years;was a special detective two years; was amember of the Pioneer Hook and Laddercompany and fireman five years; wag

deputy sheriff two years under Grace, andaided very materially in arresting eightprisoners who escaped from jail; hascaught some seventeen horse thieves andwas eleven days in pursuing one man; ar-rested fifteen burglars beside the seventeenhorse thieves alluded to, and has done agreat deal of detective work. He was amember of the board of health as healthofficer in1872, under Dr. Potts, when therawere a great many cases of small-pox,George Mottbeing one of the victims; h«continued health officer eight years. Hehelped plant the trees in Rice park, audhauled 180 loads of sand to make mortarfor the city hall. He is at present not richand doing nothing. Mr. Patterson is asomewhat tallman and has the appearanceof a person in delicate health. He is veryquiet inhis demeanor, and the fact that hehas made nomoney is pretty good evidencethat he has not robbed the public treasuryor anybody else. He made a good healthofficer.

The American Girl'a snout.From tbe Atlanta Constitution.

There is one peculiar feature of well-bred English society that our Americangirls do not catch on to very readily. Itifthe habit of conversing in undertones, sup-pressing all br^ad and open sounds. Th«average American girl6peaks in loud, cleartones, with a metallic ring. She is notaware that people three squares away canhear her distinctly, but she does not care abutton if they do. Whether out shopping,carrying on a parlor flirtation or talking ata hotel table, the sonorous clangor of theAmerican girl's bazoo drowns all othersounds, or rather rises above them, piercingthe ambient air and shattering the nervesof all the quiet people of the vicinage.