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ravel and ExplorationTe history o travel writing dates back to the Bible, Caesar, the Vikingsand the Crusaders, and its many themes include war, trade, science andrecreation. Explorers rom Columbus to Cook charted lands not previously visited by Western travellers, and were ollowed by merchants, missionaries,and colonists, who wrote accounts o their experiences. Te development o

steam power in the nineteenth century provided opportunities or increasingnumbers o ‘ordinary’ people to travel urther, more economically, and moresa ely, and resulted in great enthusiasm or travel writing among the readingpublic. Works included in this series range rom rst-hand descriptions opreviously unrecorded places, to literary accounts o the strange habits o

oreigners, to examples o the burgeoning numbers o guidebooks producedto satis y the needs o a new kind o traveller - the tourist.

Te ravels of Pietro della Valle in IndiaTe publications o the Hakluyt Society ( ounded in 1846) made availableedited (and sometimes translated) early accounts o exploration. Te rstseries, which ran rom 1847 to 1899, consists o 100 books containingpublished or previously unpublished works by authors rom ChristopherColumbus to Sir Francis Drake, and covering voyages to the New World,to China and Japan, to Russia and to A rica and India. A member o anoble Roman amily, Pietro della Valle began travelling in 1614 at thesuggestion o a doctor, as an alternative to suicide afer a ailed love affair.Te letters describing his travels in urkey, Persia and India were addressedto this advisor. Tis 1664 English translation o della Valle’s letters romIndia, republished by the Hakluyt Society in 1892, contains ascinatingethnographic details, particularly on religious belie s, and is an importantsource or the history o the Keladi region o South India.

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Te ravels o Pietrodella Valle in India

From the Old English Translation of 1664V

E E G



CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSI Y PRESS

Cambridge, New York, Melbourne, Madrid, Cape own, Singapore,São Paolo, Delhi, Dubai, okyo

Published in the United States o America by Cambridge University Press, New York

www.cambridge.orgIn ormation on this title: www.cambridge.org/9781108013543

© in this compilation Cambridge University Press 2010

Tis edition rst published 1892Tis digitally printed version 2010

ISBN 978-1-108-01354-3 Paperback

Tis book reproduces the text o the original edition. Te content and language reectthe belie s, practices and terminology o their time, and have not been updated.

Cambridge University Press wishes to make clear that the book, unless originally publishedby Cambridge, is not being republished by, in association or collaboration with, or

with the endorsement or approval o , the original publisher or its successors in title.



W O R K S I S S U E D B Y

TEbe Tbafclu^t Society

THE T R AV E L S

PIETRO DELLA VALLE IN INDIA.

No. LXXXV.





THE TRAVELS

OF

PIETRO DELLA VALLEIN

I N D I A

FROM THE OLD ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF 1664,

BY G. HAVERS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

flEiitte&, ottda &tfe of tfje au tt o r, an Inttirtrartioti anlt jftotcs,BY

E D WA R D G R E Y(LATE BENGAL CIVIL SERVICE).

VOL II

L O N D O N :PRINTED FOR THE HAKLUYT SOCIETY

4, LINCOLN'S IN N FIELDS, W.C,

M.DCCC.XCIl.





C O U N C I L

THE HAKLUYT SOCIETY.

CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, ESQ. , C.B. F.R.S. President.

MAJOR-GENERAL S IR HENRY RAWLINSON, K.C.B., D.C.L., LL.D., F.R.S.,Associi Etranger de L Institut de France, Vice-President.

LORD AEERDARE, G.C.B., F.R.S., late Pres. R.G.S.S . E . B . BOUVERIE-PUSEY, E S Q .

VICE-ADMIRAL LINDESAY BRINE.

ROBERT BROWN, ESQ. M.A. P H . D .

MILLER CHRISTY, E S Q .

THE RIGHT HON. SIR MOUNTSTUART E. GRANT DUFF, G.C.S.I. Pres. R.G.S.

A L B E RT G R AY, E S Q .

A. P. MAUDSLAY, E S Q .

A D M I R A L S IR E . OMMANNEY, C.B. F .R.S.

E. A. P E T H E R I C K , E S Q .

ERNEST SATOW, ESQ., C.M.G., Minister Resident in UruguayS. W. S ILVER, E S Q .

COUTTS TROTTER, E S Q .

P R O F. E. B. T Y L O R , D.C.L.

C A P TA I N SIR J . S Y DN E Y W E B B , K.C.M.G.

C A P TA I N W. J. L. W H A RT O N , R .N.

E. DELMAR MORGAN, Honorary Secretary.





LETTERS OF PIETRO DELLA VALLE.

VOL. II.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

L E T T E R I V.

1. D ep artu re from Goa.—A rrival at Pang i . . . 193

2. M eeting with Brahm an Am bassador. — Ear-pendant .—Scarcity of sailors at Goa.—Weakness of the PortugueseGovernment . . . . . 195

3. Difficulty about licence .—Visit to the Bishop of Cochin . 197

4. Voy age continued.— Ma labar rovers.— Angediva islands.—Arrival at Onor . . . . . 200

5. Description of Onor.—Inquiry into the conduct of the Cap-tain of the fort.—Sum ptuous entertainm ent . . 202

6. Visit to a hot stream and cistern.—Visit of Vitula Sinay,Brahman Ambassador.—Davali festival.—Town of Brah-m ans . . . . . . 205

7. D eath of Ven k-tapa Naiek a's wife.—Story told about her . 207

8. N ego tiation s with Venk-tap a N aieka.—Visit to Vitula Sinay.— Conduct of Venk-tapa . . . . 209

9. News from Goa and Europe . . . . 2 1 3

L E T T E R V.

1. Indian and Egyptian idolatry compared.—Departure fromOnor.—Arrival at Garsopa.—Account of the Queen ofGarsopa . . . . . . 2 1 6

2. Des cription of the journey up Garso pa river . . 220



Vll l CONTENTS.

3. De parture from Garsopa.— Ascent of the Ghat.—B eautifulscenery.—Temple and statue of Han um an.— Fem ale saint.—Offerings to idol . . . • . 2 2 1

4. Prese nt from Moorish Cap tain.— Indian fencing-match.—Visit of Vitula Sinay and of Moorish Cap tain.— Presen tfrom the Portug uese Am bassa dor to the Captain . 225

5. Boys learning arithm etic . . . . 227

6. Continuation of journey.— Description of Indian torches.—Night spent under trees.—Journey continued.—Arrival at

Tu m bre . . . . . . 22S7. Use of cow-dung described . . . . 230

8. De parture from Tum bre.— Nigh t spent on ban k of river.—Journe y continued.— My robalan trees described . 232

9. Arrival at Ahineli.—Tem ple of V irena D euru.— Idolsdescribed.—C urious head-dresses of idols.— Figure ofan ox.—Procession of idol.—Religious ceremonies.—Planof Tem ple . . . . . 234

10. Letter from Vitula Sinay.— Ren ovation of idols.— Noemperor but Csesar . . . . 242

11. Arrival at Badra.—Journey continued to Ikkeri.—Descrip-tion of Ikkeri . . . . . 244

12. Cane bedsteads.—Presents from the King.—Preparations foran audience with the King . . . . 245

13. Description of the Cap tain-G eneral and his son . . 247

14. Cavalcade described.—D escription of citadel, and of theKing's reception-tent . . . . 2 5 0

15. Interview with K ing Vc nk -tapa .— Pres enta tion of gifts.—Self-abasement of the Portuguese Am bassador . . 2 5 2

16. Th e King's speech.— Am bassador's reply.—Qu estions andansw ers.— Prese ntation of silk scarf to the A m bas sad or . 254

17. Procession of singing-g irls describ ed . . . 257

18. Apparatus for swinging festival described.—Large car withwooden figures.—Indian friars—Mounted soldiers.—Dancing-girls . . . . . 250.

19. Letters from Goa.— Nephew of the King.— His retinuedescribed.—Second audience with the King.— Fem aleacrobat.— Presents of fruit . . . . 262



CONTENTS. IX

20. La titude of Ikkeri as certain ed.— Kin g of Spain 's letter.—Visit to Sa gher.— Elep hants.— Proce ssion of a widowabo ut to burn herself • . . . 265

21 . La titude of Ikkeri ascertained a second time.—P rocessionof Jan gam is, or Indian friars.— Dancing-women.—K issingof feet . . . . . . . 267

22. Fun eral procession.— Great religious ceremony in theTemples.—Religious procession.—Exhibition of dancing-wom en . . . . . 271

23. Con versation with a widow abou t to bu rn herself . 273

24. Religious danc e by a priest.— Ignora nce of the priestsgenerally.—News from Goa and Europe.—More religiousceremonies . . . . . 277

25. Gre at procession of idols.—Religious danc es describ ed . 279

26. Gre at illumination.—V isit of the King to the Te m ple . 282

27. More dancing.—Treaty between Venk-tapa Naieka and theKin g of Bang hel.—P olicy of Viceroy of Goa . . 284

L E T T E R V I .

1. Book prese nted by Vitula Sinay.— Description of Indianpalm-leaf boo ks.— Dep arture from Ikkeri.—Theft byPortuguese servant . . . . 290

2. Scruples of natives as to eating.—Description of scenery.—Arrival at Colur.—Fem ale idol.— Hospitality of women.—Poverty of the people.—Arrival at Barselor.—Descrip-tion of town . . . . . 293

3. Continuation of journey by river.—Arrival at Portuguesesettlement.—E mba rkation on board ship.—Ship runsagr ou nd. — Is eventually got afloat again . . 297

4. Continuation of voyage.—Rocks and pigeons.—Arrival atMan galor.— Description of the port, and of city.—Land-ing at Mangalor.— Visit to the capta in of fort . . 300

5. Visit to Ba nghel.— Description of the town.—R eturn toM angalor.— Visit to Olala.— Description of that place,an d of the Queen's palace.—Return to Mang alor . 302

b



X CONTENTS.

6. Ma ss and serm on.— De parture from Man galor.—A rrival atSale.—Account of the King of that place.—Arrival atM anel.— Desc ription of adjacent coun try . . 304

7. M eeting with Queen of Olala.—C onversation with he r . 306

8. T heo ry as to India n gods.— Curious rule as to succession bysister's son s . . . . . 310

9. Histo ry of the Queen of Olala . . . 313

10. Description of the Queen's palace.—Interview with Queen 'sson.— Description of his app ear an ce . . 316

11 Conv ersation with Que en's son.— Prese ntation of a m ap ofthe world.— Plan of the palace describ ed . . 320

12. D inner prepared.— Description of Indian dish called Caril(curry).— Din ner eaten.— Difficulty abou t spoon .—S atis-faction of the Prince . . . . 325

13. Fur ther conversation with Queen's son.— Astonishment ofnatives at whiteness of Eu rop ea n complexion . . 332

14. Description of La gn e , or India n nuts . . . 336

15. Attempt at interview with the Queen.—Message sent by her.—Visit to the D evi's Tem ple.— Latitude of Manel ascer-tained.— Rea sons given why the Queen refused an inter-view.— Dep arture from Manel.— Arrival at M ang alor . 337

L E T T E R V I I .

1. Latitud e of M angalor asce rtained.— Visit to the King of

the Jogies . . . . - 3 4 4

2. Description of a temple . . . . 346

3. Th e King's hab itation described . . . 348

4. Interview with the King of the Jogies . . . 350

5. Dinne r in a p easant's c ottage.—R eturn to M angalor.—Account of Ca rnate , an d its Queen . . . 352

6. Arrival of Portu gues e fleet.—E mb arkation on boa rd ship . 353

7. De partu re from M angalor.—M eeting with Ma labar rovers.— Arrival at Calicut.— Neg otiations with the Sam orin ofCalicut . . . . . . 355

•8. Latitude of Calicut ascertained.—Description of town andpeople . . . . . . 3 5 9



CONTENTS. XI

9. Acco unt of the M alaba r people.— Visit to t he Sam orin'spalace. . . . . . . 361

10. Description of the palace . . . . 363

11. Interview with King's nieces.— Description of the King.—Mode of saluting him . . . . 365

12. Con versation w ith the King.— Inspection by the King of a

Portuguese arquebus . . . . 369

13. Condu ct of Portu gues e comp anions . . . 372

14. Disco urse of the King .— Presen ts of fruit an d of a wild p ig.— Plan of the palace .— Return on boar d ship . . 374

15. Strange custom of the Nairs.—Clothing of the King, and ofthe people.—M ode of warfare.—Custom of Am oco . 379

16. Departure from Calicut.—Christmas Eve on board ship.—Arrival at Canan or.— Description of the place.—A ccountof L a Misericordia .—Visit to the bazaar . . 3 8 1

17. De par ture from C ananor. Arrival at M angalor.—V isit toFranciscan Fathers.—Departure from Mangalor with

convoy . . . . . . 38418. Fleet anchors near rocks of Sta. Maria.—Scarlet jasmine.—

M eeting with supposed pirates, who turn out to befriends . . . . . . 386

19. Continuation of voyage.— Arrival at island of Salsette.—Suprem acy of Jesuits there and elsewhere . . 390

20. Visit to a Jesuit church.—Return on board ship.—Arrival atGoa .— Attem pted trick of Portug uese servant . . 392

21 . Proclamation of Viceroy of Goa.—Account of soldiers called Dispacciat i . . . . - 3 9 5

22. News from Ormuz.—Conduct of the Viceroy and of Ruy

Freira and his captains . . . . 397

23. News from Persia . . . . . 401

24. Festival of the Jesuits.—Their dispute with the Augustinefriars . . . . . . 402

25. Visit to Gu adalu pe.— De scription of a beautiful lake and

of various tree s, and of the lotus plan t . . 404



Xll C O N T E N T S .

. L E T T E R V I I I .

1. Festival of M artyrs —C ouncil of State.— M asquerade .—Trage dy of St. Xavier.—M ass and masquerade.— Tourna-

. me nt.— Solem n procession of Jesu its . . . 409

2. Proces sion and religious cerem onies describ ed . . 414

3. Despatch of fleet to Ormuz.—Latitude of Goa ascertained.—• M assacre of En glish by the Mo gul.—R etreat of Sultan

Chorrom . . . . . . 416

4. More sh ips sent to Orm uz.— Festival of the Inquisition.—New s from Persia, and from Tu rke y . . . 419

5. News from Europe . . . . . 424

6. A Canarese wedding described . . . . 427

7. New s of the wreck of a Portugu ese ship on coast of Africa . 429

8. Visit to the Prior of the convent of Ispah an.— Arriva l of

ships from Mozambique.—A ffairs of the Je su its . . 4319. Solemn cavalcade.—V isit to Patriarch of E th io p ia . 434

10. Adventures of a cavalier . . . . 435

u . Festival of St. Bartholom ew.— New s from Ormuz.— Arrivalof Por tugu ese fleet.—N ews from Eu rop e . . 436

12. Fig ht with an E nglish sh ip.—C onsecration of an Arch-bishop.— Proclamation of the Viceroy . . . 439

13. Wa r between Adil Shah and Nizam Shah.— Procession of

L a Misericordia , and of D ominicans.— Sea-fight withthe Mo ors.—M ore news from Ormuz . . . 442

IN DE X . . 447



LETTER IV.

From Onor, Octob. 30, 1623.

EING departed from Goa and arriv'dat this Port of Onor 1 1 shall give yousome account of what hath happenedin my observation during the fewdays since the last that I writ to you,on October the tenth : and because

I understood tha t it lay still at Goa, with the two Shipswhich were to go thence for Persia, I have thought fit tosend this to accompany it, and I hope you will receiveboth of them together, and that not without as muchdelectation of my News, as 1 am pleas'd in writing to youfrom several places, and (when I can get opportun ity)from those very places which afford the Novelties andmatters whereof I write, which therefore may possiblybe more grateful in the reception as being native of theCountry.

I took ship with our Portugal Ambassador, Sig. Gio.Fernandez Leiton, about Evening, October the fourteenth,and, departing from Goa, we remov'd to a Town call'dPangi2 in the same Island, but lower, near the place

1 See ante, p. 190, note.2 Now called Panjim, or New Goa, on the left b ank of the Man dovi

river, three or four miles from th e sea. It was m ad e the seat ofgovernm ent in 1759, and was formally raised to the dignity of beingthe capital by Royal Proc lama tion in the year 1843. Fon seca (pp. 97to 103) desc ribes it in detail, and spea ks of it as hav ing a picturesque

O



9 DEPARTURE FROM GuA.

where the River enters into the Sea, and whither the Vice-Roys used to retire them selves frequently to a House ofPleasure which they have there, besides many othe r likeHouses of private persons upon the River likewise, andwhere also at the mouth of the Sea, or Bar, as the y call it,which is a little lower, a lmost all Fleets that depar t fromGoa are wont to set Sail. We might have performed this

journey by Land along the Sea-coast, passing along theother lands of Adil-Sciah1 till we came to those of Vcuk-tapa Naickar But to avoid expences and occasions of dis-gust with many Governours of those Territo ries subject toAdil-Scidh, who sometimes are little courteous and im-pertinent, the Vice-Roy would have us go by Sea, andfor more security sent five of those light Friga ts orGaleots, which the Portugals call Sangessis? to accompanyus as far as Onor, where we were to land. So tha t we were

in all ten Ships or Galeots, to wit, one which carry 'd thePortugal ambassador and us, another in which Venk-tapaNaiekas Ambassador the Brachman4 w en t; three othersladen with the baggage of the two Ambassadors (and par-ticularly with Horses and other things which the Vice-Roysent for a present to Venk-tapa Naieka, and other Horseswhich I know not who carry'd thither to sell)5; and the

five Ships of war, whereof Sig. Hcttor Fernandez was ChiefCaptain or General. Nevertheless we pa rted from Goathe aforesaid Eve nin g onely with our own Ship, the rest

appe.'irance ; an d C. tie Kloguen (p. 142) s a y s : I t is now (1831) avery handsome town, all the houses bei ng well built and the s treetsbeing broad a n d well paved.

1 See ante, p. 143. iwte. - See ante, p. 168, note.3

Properly Sanguic.el . (See Yieyra's Dictionary.4 See ante, p. 191.

•• T he horse trade was a great business on the west coast of India.(See Commentaries of A. Dalboquerquc, vol. ii, pp . 76, 77, 107, an di n ; vol. iii, p. 21 : an d Col. Yule's Marco Polo, vol. i, pp. 84, 88, 324,33^, etc., and Index.)



tA R ORNAMENTS. 195

being already fallen down lower toward the Sea, and theAmbassador Vituld was above a day at Pangi expectingus, where we arriving the abovesaid night did not land,because it was late, but slept in the Vessel.

II.—October the fourteenth. We went ashore in theMorning at Pangi, and the two Ambassadors saw oneanother upon the Sea-side, where, I being present with them,Sig. Gio. Fernandez told the Brachman Ambassador whoI was, and tha t I went with them out of curiosity to see hisKing, wherew ith he testified great contentm ent, but wasmuch more pleas'd with the Pendant which I wore at myleft ear, as I have us'd to do for many years past for remedyof my weak sight, because wearing Pendants at the ears is apeculiar custom of the Indians, especially of the Gentiles,who all wear them in both ears1 : and because this isamong the Portugals a thing not onely unusual, but

ignorantly by some of the ruder sort of them held for un-lawful onely because 'tis us'd by Gentiles, therefore theAm bassador marvelled th at I, being of the Portugal'sReligion, nevertheless us'd it ; but being told that it wasno t forbidden by our Law, but onely customarily disus'd,and that in Europe it was us'd by many,2 he commended the

1

See Quintin Craufurd's Sketches relating to the History, etc., ojthe Hindoos: " I n the ears all the Hindoos wear large gold ringsorna me nted with precious stones." Th e custom of wearing ear-ringshas been ado pted by m ales as well as females in India, as is wellknow n, from time imm emo rial. The y are frequently of large size.(See Burton's Goa and the Blue Mountains, p. 232.) Insta nce s havebeen known in which their weight am ounte d to no less than 2 lbs. Insome parts pieces of shell are inserted in the lobes of the ears, and inBurm a cheroo ts are carried in this way. No se-rings are common lyworn by wom en. (See Sir M. W illiams' Modern India, p. 61.) Ea r-rings are me ntioned as being generally worn by India ns in Arrian'sIndica, chap. xvi. Mr. For bes (Oriental Memoirs, p. 390) says :" Th e M alaba r wom en's ears, loaded with rings and heavy jewels,reach almost to their shoulders."

• It is said that Charles I. of England wore pearl ear-rings, and thatO 2



196 WEAKNESS OF PORTUGUE SE GOVE RNM ENT.

custom, and bid the Portugals see how well I shew 'd withthat Pendan t, and better than they who wore none ; sopowerful is use to endear things to the eye, and make thatfancy'd and esteem'd by some, which others, through wantof custom, dislike, or value not.1

This day we departed not, because one of the Frigats ofthe Armado which was to accom pany us was unprovidedwith Sea-men, for which we were fain to stay till the dayfollowing, and then were not very well provided. The causewhereof was that there was at this time a great Scarcityof Mariners in Goa, because the Governours of the maritimeparts of the Continent subject to Idal-Scid/fi would notpermit their Ships to come, as they were wont, to supp lyMariners for the Portugal Armado ; which seem'd an argu-ment of some ill will of that King against the Portugals, ofwhich, were there nothing else, their being weaker and

more confus'd in their Government than ever, and all thingsin bad order, was a sufficient ground ; for remedy of whichthey took no other course, but daily loaded themselves withnew, unusual and most heavy Impositions, to the manifestmine of the State , taking no care to prevent th e hourlyexorbitant defraudations of the publick Incomes, whichotherwise would be sufficient to maintain the charge without

new Gabcls3

: but if such thefts continue both the publickIncomes and the new Gabels, and as m any as they can

he gave one of them to IS i shop Juxon, the day before his execution,for his dau ghter, the Prin cess Ro yal. Th ey were at one time m uchworn in Europe, as being good for the eyes.

1 See Shakespeare (Two Gentlemen of Verona, act v, sc. 4): " How-use doth breed a hab it in a m an "

- Should be Adil Shah . See ante, p. 143, note.:i This word (said to be derived from the Arabic Kabdla, " a tax")was in Fi an ce specially applied to a tax on salt, and is said to hav eled King Edw ard I II . to the perpetration of a pun in rem arkin g tha tKing Philip, who im posed the tax, was the au thor of the " Saliq uelaw".



THE VICEROY'S LICENCE REQUIRED. 197

invent, will be all swallow'd up. Nevertheless the Portugalsare heedless according to their custom, and out of fatalblindness, making no reckoning of these signs which shewthe evil mind of their neighbour Adil-Scidh, think heknows nothing of these disorders, and that this with-holdingof his Subjects is onely an impertinence of his Officers.What the event will be Time will shew.

III.— But to return to my purpose. Not being to departthis day we went to dine and pass the time, with intentionalso to lodge the following night, in the house of Sig.Baldassar d'Azevedo, who liv'd constan tly in a fair Housethere by the Sea-side, a little dis tant from the Villa, orFort,1 where the Vice-Roys lodge in Pangi? W hilst we wererecreating our selves, Sig. Fernandez, bethinking himself ofwhat, perhaps, he had not thought of before, ask'd mewhether I had the Vice-Roy's Licence to go with him

this Voyage, and I telling him tha t I had not because Idid not think it needful, he reply'd that it was needful tobe had by any means if I intended to go, otherwise hecould not venture to carry me, for fear of giving malevolous3

persons occasion to criminate him, by saying that he hadcarry'd me, a stranger and without the Vice-Roy's licence,into suspected places, where matters of Sta te were to behandled ; in brief, knowing the matter to be blameable, andthe wonted cavils of many of his own Nation, and beingadmonished by many and great troubles befallen others,and particularly a Kinsman of his, very innocently for veryslight causes and much inferior to this, he told me reso-lutely that without the Vice-Roy's Licence it was no-wisegood, either for him or me, that I should go. Wherefore,being4 we were not to depart tha t day, he advis'd me toreturn to the City, and procure the said Licence, if 1

,J Built by Yusuf Adil Shah. 2 See p. 193, note,3 An obsolete word for " malevolent".4 For " since" see ante, p. 27, note.



198 THE LICENCE OBTAINED.

intended to go, and he would stay for me till the next

Morning ; but without the Licence I must not return totak e Sh ip, nor would he by any means venture to carryme. I who well understood the procedures of the Portugal*,and what rigor they use in their Government,1 and to whatsuspicions and malevolences they are prone, which cause athousand ill usages and injustices, was sensible that Sig.Fernandez had reason, and that the not having gotten thisLicence was an inadvertency, because I accounted it notnecessary ; but to obtain it of the Vice-Roy, who knew mewell and had shewn himself courteous to me, I look'd uponas not difficult. Wherefore, being loathe to lose my intendedvoyage, as soon as I had din'd with these Gentlemen, I wentby boat to the City, and having first given account of mybusiness to Sig. Antonio, and Sig. Ruy Gomez his Brother,(to whose House I repair'd, having left that which I had

hir'd,and remov'd my Goods to tha t of the said S ig" Barocci),I went with the same Sig. Ruy Gomez to speak to F. Moryad,a Jesuit and the Vice-Roy's Confessor and my Friend,whom I desir'd (as the fittest person to do it in the shorttime left me) to get me a Licence from the Vice-Roy . H ewent immediately to speak to the Vice-Roy about it, andhad the fortune to find him before he ente r'd into a Con-

gregation, or Council, which was to sit till to -n ig ht; and theVice-Roy presently writ a Licence for him with his ownhand, directed to the Ambassador Gio. Fernandez, whereinhe told him that, whereas I desir'd to go along with him,he might carry me and shew me all kind of Civility and

1 T he policy of Adm iral Dalb oqu erqu e, first Viceroy of Goa, which, it

may be presumed, was adopted in a general way by his successors, isthus described by Fonseca {Historical Sketch of Goa, p. 144): " Whileon the one hand he treated the M uha mm adan s with undu e severityand harshness, he showed marked favour to the Hindoos, butpunished with merciless rigour every species of oppression practisedon the merchants and traders.'1



INTERVIEW WITH THE BISHOP. 199

Honour as a deserving person, with other like courteousand high expressions.

Having gotten my Licence, I went with F. Ruy GomezBaroccioto visit the Bishop of Cocin} who in thevacancy of theSee administred the A rch-bishoprick of Goafand whom I hadnot yet visited ; and understanding that he was desirous toknow me, and was a Prelate of great merit, not only as toEcclesiastick matters but also in point of Government andW ar (for he took divers strong places, and perform'd otherexploits in India for the service of his King with greatvalour) I would not depart without first visiting him andmaking myself known to him. This Prelate is called FraDon Sebastiano di San Pietro* and is an Augustine Fryer.We discours'd above an hour together concerning things ofIndia and Persia, and other matters, and I recommended tohim, with the F. Confessor, the Augustine Fathers of his

1 In original Cocin—generally written Cochin—on west coast ofIndia, in lat. 9° 58' N. Properly Kachhi or Kuchi, called also Gut-schin, Couhi, and Cocym. According to Sir H. Yule (Cathay, vol. ii,p. 455), it is first mentioned by Conti, under the name of "Cocym".Now the chief port of Malabar. The town gives its name to theadjacent territory, which is governed by a native ruler, who pays atribute of 200,000 Rs. annually to the British Government. A Portu-guese fort was erected here in 1503 by Admiral Dalboquerque. In1663 it became the capital of the Dutch possessions in India, and in1796 was taken by the British. It is at present remarkable as theresidence of the black and white Jews, and of the sect of Christianscalled Nazaranis or Nestorians, who ascribe their conversion to St.Thomas. (Eastwick's Ha?idbook of Madras, pp. 316, 317.)

2 Goa was made a metropolitan, or archiepiscopal, see by PopePaul IV in 1557, and two suffragan bishop rics were crea ted atthe same time, viz., those of Cochin and Goa, of which the formerextended from Cranganur to the Ganges, and the latter from Cran -ganur to Cape of Good Hope. (See C. de Kloguen, p. 58.) Therewere afterwards seven suffragan bishoprics altogether, viz., Cochin,Malacca, Macao, Tunay (Japan), Meliapur, Nankin, and Pekin.

3 He was the first Bishop of Meliapur, and was confirmed as Arch-bishop of Goa in 1629. He completed the cathedral begun in 1616,



2OO DEPA RTU RE FROM PANJIM.

Religion in Persia, giving him an account of their necessi-ties, and how he might help them.

Night being come, I went to make a Collation in theHouse of Sig" Bavocci,, and when it was grown dark Ireturn'd to imbark in the Ship which expected me, andwent to the Town of Pangi1 to find Sig. Gio. Fernandezand my other Companions, who were very glad at myreturn with the Vice-Roy 's Licence so favourable andcourteous to me, because they were loath to have gonewithout me ; and so I slept with them that night in thesame House. My charge, Mariam Tinatm} went not withme this journey because it was not expedient, being3 I wasto return to Goa, but stay'd still in the House of Sigra Lenada Cugna: onely Cacciatiti ̂ went with me to serve me.

October the fifteenth. A little before night we were readyto set sail, had we not been necessitated to stay for certain

Mariners till the next Morning, when we went to hearMass in a Church of Saint Ag>ies :> belonging to the Augus-tine Fryers0 and standing in the Island of Goa ; after which,being imbark'd, we stay'd a while longer wa iting for theBrachman Ambassador, for what reason I know not, unless,perhaps, he was minded to make us stay for him, as wehad made him stay for us. At length being got out of th e

mouth of the River we continu'd sailing all night, but with1 See ante, p. 193, note. '2 See ante, p. 24, note.3 For "since", see note, p. 27. 4 Sec p. 126.5 A small church in the village of St. Agnes, to the west of Panjim.

In this parish is one of the three palaces of the Arc hbish op. Of th eother two palaces, one adjoins the cathe dral and the other is in theparish of St. Peter.

0 The Augustine Friars were the fourth religious order established

in Goa, where they came in 572 un der F ra An tonio de Paixfio. Th eirconvent is described by Cottineau de Kloguen as " the most beautifulan d stately conve nt or buildin g in Goa", an d he add s tha t " few citiesin Eu rop e can boast of a finer edifice of the kind". Fo r a desc riptionof it, see De Kloguen's Goa, p. 122 ; and for som e gen eral observ ationson the religious orders at Goa, see the same, p. 133.



MALABAR ROVERS. 2OI

a small wind. Our course was always Southward almostdirectly, and we coasted along the land at a little dis-tance.

October the six teen th. In the Morning we discern'd fourShips of Malabar Rovers1 near the shore (they call themFaroes2 and they go with Oars, like Galeots or Foists3).We gave them chase for above an hour, intending to fightthem, but we could not overtake the m ; onely we lost muchtime and much of our way. Nigh t came upon us nearcertain Rocks, or uninhabited little Islands, which they callAngedivaf which signifies in the Language of the CountryFive Islands, they being so many in number. W e foundfresh water in one of them ; they are all green and havesome Trees. W e set sail from thence the same night, buthad little or no wind and violent rain.

October the seventeenth. Continuing our course the nex t

day with a very small gdle we saw the bound of the States1 Th e whole line of coast here (called A riake by the Greek s,

Kemkem by the Arabs, and K ukan, or Konkan, by the Hindus) hasalways been infamous for the piratical propensities of its inhabitants,whose anc ient occup ation is well favoured by the mu ltitude of smallports, an uninterrupted view along the coast, high ground favourableto distan t vision, and the altern ate land an d sea-breezes that obligevessels to hu g the shore, and by the fact that the por ts, besides being-

shallow, are protec ted against large ships by bars. Pliny notices thedepredations committed by these pirates, and our early travellers arefull of ho rrible tales about them . (Se e Sir R. Burton's Goa and theBlue Mountains, pp . 12 an d 13.)

2 For Pran, or Prahu, a Malay word for a kin d of swift sailing-vessel, used in the M alayan a rchipelag o and on the M alabar coast.See Commentaries of Dalboqicerque, vol. ii, pp. 87 and 91.

3 An obs olete word for a sma ll sailing-vessel, called Fustas bythe Portug uese. (See Commentaries of A. Dalboquerque, vol. ii,

pp. 86, 87, 99, and 100.)4 Pr oba bly for P anjdw ipa, or "five islands" (Sansk rit), a favouriteanc ho rag e of the early P ortug uese , in lat. 14° 30' N. Called also" Anc hediva", and, in D ourad o's map of 1546, "Am gedina ". Th ey werefortified by the Viceroy of Goa, Don Francis de Taura, in 1683, whenthe Portuguese were at war with Sambaji, the Mahratta chief.



2O2 ARRIVA L AT HOX.WVAR.

of Adil-Sciah1 and Venk-tapa Naieka? which is onely a

brackish River,3

such as are frequent upon the Coast o{ India.The wind was but small still, so that all this day we couldnot arrive at OnoiA ; but when it was night, because 'tis nogood ent'ring into the Port of Onor in the dark and withebbing water, as it was now, we cast Anchor, and remain'dall night under an uninhabited small Rock, which they callthe Rock of Onor. After mid-night the Tide began toflow, but yet we stirred not.

October the eighteenth. About break of day we mov'dalong, and by the help of O ars finished the rem ainder of theway, arriving at Onor in good time. Th is whole voyagefrom Goa to Onor is not above eighteen Leagues , but ittook up so much time because we had onely a very smallwind.

V.—Onor is a small place by the Sea-side, but a goodPort of indifferent capacity, which is formed by two arm sof Rivers,5 which (I know not whether both from one orseveral heads) running one Southward and the other North-ward meet at the Fortress, and are discharg'd with onemouth into the Sea. The habitations are rather Co ttagesthan Houses, built under a thick Grove of Palm s, to witthose which produce the Indian Xuts, called by the Portu-

gals Coco''; and by the Arabians Narghil. But the Fortress7

is of a com peten t c ircuit, though the walls are not very

1 See ante, p. 143, note. - See ante, p. 168, note.3 Marked in "Wvld's map as the Gungawully river.1 Or Hon awar. Sec ante, p. 190.5 Branches of the river Shiravati, on which are the celebrated

Gairsappa, or Gerusappe, Falls. li See ante, pp. 40 and 181.7 Th is fort previously to 1569, when it was cap ture d by the Po rtu-

guese , belon ged to the Que en of Ge rusap pe. It subse quen tly fellinto the han ds of the Rajas of Bedn ur, and afterwa rds passed intothe possession of Ha ida r Ali, from whom it was taken by the B ritishin 17S3, and restored in the following y ear to Tipu Sah ib by the treatyof Mangalur.



DESCR IPTION OF HONAWAR. 2O3

well designed, being just as the Portugals found themmade by the people of the Country. It stands upon a highHill of freestone, and, it being very capacious, notonely theCaptain lives there, but most of the married and principalPortugals have Houses in it, very well accommodated withWells, Gardens, and other conveniences. The streetswithin the Fortress are large and fair, besides a great Piazzasufficient to contain all the people of the place in time of asiege. The re are likewise two Churches, one dedicated toSaint Catherine? and the other to Saint Anthony*; butordinarily there is but one Priest in Onor, who is the Vicarof the Arch-Bishop of Goa ; and therefore in Lent otherreligious persons always go thither. Out of the Fort, inthe country, is the Bazar or Market, but a small one, andof little consideration ; nothing being found therein butwhat is barely necessary for sustenance of the inhabi-

tants.Our Ambassador Sig, Gio. Fernandez lodg'd with us, not

in the Fo rt but without in the House of a private man ;and, I believe, it was because he had rigorous Orders fromthe Vice-Roy against the Captain, and commission toredress many Disorders which he had committed in hisGovernm ent, especially to compose matters between him

and the people of the Country, as also between him and1 St. Catherine was held in special honour by the Portuguese, as it

was on the festival day of tha t saint (N ov . 25th, 1510) tha t Goa wasfinally captured by Adm iral Da lboq uerq ue. (See Commentaries ofA. Dalboquerque, vol. iii, p. 9.) Tha t even t is com memo rated inCamoes' Lusiada (x, 42, 43), in certain stanzas, of which the last twolines are thus translated by Fanshaw :—

" Upon the Feast (as put in by designe)Of Egypt's Virgin Martyr, Katherine."

(Conunentaries of A. Dalboquerque, vol. i, p. 1.)2 There were, as is well known, two St. Antonies, one of Egypt, the

other of Pad ua. Th is church was dedicated to the former saint.(See post, p 209.)



2O4 TH E CAPTAIN HIS WIFE A ND TH E VICAR.

the Vicar, betwixt whom there were great Disorders, the

fault of which was charg'd upon the Captain.When we were settled in our House, first the Vicar,call'd F. Henrico Rabelo, and afterwards the Captain, call'dSigr. Don Christoforo Fernandez Francisco, with almost allthe principal persons of the place, visited Sig. Gio. Fernan-dez, who presen tly beginning to tr ea t of business, andpresenting to the Captain the Vice-R oy's Le tters andOrders, the Captain being terrifi'd therewith on the oneside, and on the other oblig'd by the civil te rms of Sig.Fernandez, forthwith offer'd himself ready to give the Vice-Roy satisfaction in whatever he com manded, and beganimm ediately to put the same offer in effect; releasing onewhom he held Prisoner, and performing other things whichSig. Fernandez appointed him.

October the nineteenth. Th e Captain inviting the Am bas-sador and all the company to dine in the Fort, we wentfirst to visit him, and afterwards to hear Mass in Sa intCatherines Church which is the Vicar's See ; which beingo'ver, the Ambassador visited a G entlewom an who was aKinswoman of the Vicar's, and then retir'd in private withthe Captain, not without manifest signes that his re-pacifica-tion was rather upon necessity than out of good will.

Causa malt tanti fcemina sola fuit. The original of mostof the Disorders between the Captain and the Vicar, theysay, was occasion'd by the Captain 's W ife,1 who hadbanished out of Onor a servant of his whom he hademploy'd as his instrument to other Women, and who hadbeen formerly punished for the same fault. In the meantime we walk'd up and down, bu t saw nothing worthmentioning ; and at dinner-time we went to the C aptain'sHouse where we all din'd, namely Sig. Gio. Fernandez the

1 " Hell has no Fury like a woman scorned." (Congreve's Monrn-Bride, act iii, sc. 8.)



A HOT SPRING. 205

Ambassador, the Chief Commander of the Fleet, call'd

Hettor Fernandez, F. Bartolomeo Barroso the Ambassador's

Chaplain, Sig. Gonsalvo Carvaglio and I, who came in the

Ambassador's Company. The entertainment was very well

served ; dinner ended, we returned to our House.

VI.— October the twentieth. In the Evening the Chaplain

and I went in a PalancJiino a mile out of Onbr to see a fine

running water, which issuing out of the earth in a low, or

rather hollow place, as it were the bottom of a Gulph, falls

into a Tanke or Cistern built round with stone ; and, this

being fill'd, it runs out with a stream, watering the

neighbouring fields. The water is hot, 1 to wit not cold ;

and therefore the Country people come frequently to

bathe themselves in it for pleasure. The Cistern is

square, every side being five or six yards, and the water

would reach to a man's neck ; but by reason of the

ruinousness of the walls in some places it is not veryclean. Within it are small fishes, 2 which use to bite such

as come to swim there, yet without doing hurt, because

they are small ; and the place being low is consequently

shady and so affords a pleasant station at all times. The

Gentiles have this Cistern in Devotion, and call it Ram-

tirt, s tha t is, Holy Water, Water of Expiation, etc. The

1 Hot springs are found in many places in India, and are generallyregarded by the natives as objects of veneration. Some are constantin their flow, others interm ittent. One such spring is near Rajapur(near Goa), and others are at Mahar, Dabul, and elsewhere. At oneplace not far from Raj£pur there are fourteen singular interm ittentsprings, which flow for some months in the year only. (See Eastwick'sHandbook of Bombay Presidency, 2nd ed., p. 219.) There are hotsprings also near Gaya, in the Bengal Presidency.

2 Fish are not generally found alive in hot water, but one species(mentioned by Hum boldt), the Pimclodiis Cydopiim, is said to be foundsometimes in volcanoes.

3 The correct meaning is the Place of Pilgrimage (Tirtti) of Ram,or Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu.



2 0 6 THE DIWALI FESTIVAL.

Portugals call it O Tanque da Padre,1 that is, the Cistern

of the F ather, or Religious person, from the Gentile-Monastick who uses to remain there. W e stript ourselves and spent a good while swimm ing here. T he fieldsabout Onor through w hich we passed were very plea san tHills and Valleyes, all green, partly with very high herbage,partly with wood, and partly with corn.

October the one and twentieth. I took the Altitude ofthe Sun, and found it distant from the Zenith 24 degrees20 minutes, upon which da y the Sun, according to mymanuscripts, was in the 27th degree of Libra, anddeclin'd from the Êquinoctial to the South 10 degrees24' 56", which deducted from 24 degrees 20', in whichI found the Sun, there remain 13 degrees 55' 4 " ; andprecisely so much is Onor dis tan t from the Êquinoctialtowards the North. In the Evening the Ambassador

Vituld Sinay? who was lodg'd beyond the River moreSouth of Onor, came to the City to visit the Cap tainin the Fo rt. The Captain with all the Citizens, and Sig.Gio. Fernandez, with us of his Company, went to meetand receive him a t the place where he landed : threepieces of Ordnance being discharg'd when he entred intothe Fort.

October the four and twentieth was the Davali,3 or Feast

of the Indian Gentiles, and, I believe, was the-sam e that

1 The word "tank", commonly used in India for an artificial reser-voir, seems to be the Portuguese word tanque, which may be derivedfrom the Sanskrit Tanghi. See ante, p. 32.

2 See ante, p. 191.3 From Diiuali, m ean ing " a row of lamp s". Th is festival tak es

place in hon our of Kali (otherw ise called Bhaw dni), wife of Siva, andof Lakshmi, wife of Vishnu, goddess of prosperity and abundance,on the last two days of the dark half of the month Asan, and at thenew moon, and four following days, of the following month Kartik(Octo ber), when all the houses of Hind us are illumina ted with rowsof lamps. As is well know n, the Chinese h ave a some wh at similar



A TOWN OV BKAHMANS. 20 7

I had seen the last year celebrated in Bender di Combru1

in Persia. The same day, if I mistake not in my reckon-ing, the Moors began their new year 1033. 1° the EveningI went to see another great town of Gentiles, separatefrom that which stands upon the Sea near Onor, and theycall it the Villa di Balunani, because most of theinhabitants are Brachmans'1- whereas they that live by theSea-side are F ishermen, and of o ther like professions.This Town of the Brachmans stands about a Canon's shotwithin land, remote from the Fortress of Onor towards theNor th-Eas t. Th e inhab itants keep Cows, or Buffalls,8

and live by other Trades. In the entrance of the Cityis built for publick use a handsome square Cistern, orReceptacle for Water, each side of which measured about ahundred of my paces in le ng th ; 'tis fill'd with rain-water,which lasts for the whole year.

VII.—October the five and twentieth. News came toOnor how on Thursday night last, October the nine andtwentieth, Venk-tapa Naiekat lost his chief Wife, an agedW om an and well belov'd by him ; her name was Badra-Ama,5 Daughter of a noble-man of the same Race of

festival, called the " Fe ast of Lan terns". Th e use of lighted lam ps at

this festival is to c om me mo rate the slaying of a giant by V ishnu,on which occasion women went to meet him with lamps lighted in hishono ur. ' See ante, p. 3, note, and p. 107, note.

2 It is a com mon custom in Indian towns an d villages to assigncertain specific quarters (called paras) as the residence of particularcastes, or trades.

3 Or buffaloes (Bubalus buffelus), a Spanish, or Portuguese, word,from the Greek Bonbalos, hence our word " buff , originally applied tothe leath er m ade of buffalo hide, but now to the colour rese mb lingthat of such leather. 4 See ante, p. 168, note.

5 More correctly Bhadr Amma (Kanarese), "g oo d mother". Asan instance of singular perversion of terms it may be noticed that inthe Tuluva dialect Amma me ans " father", and Appa (Karanese for" father") m eans " mo ther". (See Handbook for Madras, by E. B.Eastwick, C.B., p. 302.)



2O8 TH E STORY OF BADRA. AMX.

Lingavant} which Venk-tapa him self is of. B ad ra w as

her proper nam e, Ama. her Ti t le , de not in g Pr incess orQue en. W e staye d all this while at Onor, because assoon as we arriv'd the re Vituld Sinay writ to Venk-tapANaieka, h is M aster, g iv ing h im an acco unt of our ar r iv a l ;and so i t was nece ssary to s tay for his Answ er and O rd er sfrom the C o u rt : we also waited for m en to carr y usupo n the way ( the whole jou rne y having t o be ma de inLit ters , or Palanchinos) , together with our Goods andBa gga ge, which w ere l ikewise to be carry 'd by me n up ontheir shoulders ; and the Davali, or Fe ast of the Gentiles,falling out in the meantime, we were fain to stay ti l l i t waspa sse d; and I know not wh ether the Q ueen 's D ea thand Funeral may not cause us to s tay some t ime longer.

I will not suppr ess o ne s tory wh ich is re po rte d of thisLa dy . T h ey say tha t twelve or thir teen year s s ince, whe n

she was abou t five an d thi r ty year s old, i t cam e t o he rears tha t Venk-taph Naieka, he r Hu sban d , hav ing becomefond of a M oorish W om an , ke pt her secre t ly in a F o rt no tfar from th e Co urt, wh ere he frequ ently solac'd him selfwith her for two or three dayes together ; whereupon Badra-Ama, f irst com plain ing to him not one ly of the w ro ngwhich he did ther eby to her, bu t also m or e of tha t which

he did to himself, defi ling himself with a s tra ng e W o m a nof im pure Ra ce (according to their superst i t ion) , and of aNa tion which dra nk W ine an d ate Fles h an d all sort of

1 Lingavats (vulgarly Lingaits), worshippers of Siva, whose sym-bol is the " Lingam", or emblem of generative power. They wereoriginally followers of a leader named Basava (Sanskrit Vrishabha),who became prime minister of the State of which Kalyanpur was the

capital, and wear a " Lingam" as a neck ornament, which mustbe always carried about, and hence is called Jangam, or " movable".They abjure all respect for caste distinctions and observance of Brah-manical rites and usages. A great part of the Kanarese populationbelow Kolapur and in Maisur is Lingait. (See Sir Monier Williams,Modern India, p. 194 ; and Eastwick's Handbook for Madras, p. 70.)



AN AC T OF CO NS TA NC Y. 2OO.

uncleannesses (in their account), told him that, if he had amind for other Women, he need not have wanted Gentile-Women of their own clean Race, without contaminatinghimself with this Moor, and she would have suffered it withpatience; but, since he had thus defil'd himself with her,she for the future would have no more to do with him ;and thereupon she took an Oath that she would be to himas his Da ughte r and he should be to her as her Fat he r:after which she shew'd no further resentment, but liv'd withhim as formerly, keeping him company in the Palace,tending upon him in his sickness and doing other thingswith the same love as at first, helping and advising him inmatter s of Government, wherein she had alwayes grea tauthority with him ; and, in short, excepting the Matri-monial Act, perfectly fulfilling all other Offices of a goodWife. Venk-tapa Naieka, who had much affection for her,

notwithstanding the wrong he did her with his Moor,endeavour'd by all means possible to divert her from thisher purpose and to perswade her to live a MatrimonialLife still with him, offering many times to compound forthat Oath by the alms of above 20,000 Pagods1 (Pagodis a gold coin, near equivalent to a Venetian Zecchino2 orEnglish Angel), but all in vain, and she persever'd con-stant in this Resolution till death; which being un-doubtedly an act of much Constancy and Virtue was thecause that Venk-tapa Naieka lov'd her always so muchthe more.

VIII.—October the eight and twentieth. Vitula Sinay

1 A gold coin equivalent to abo ut 3 Rs., or about 4s. 6d. of our money.Th e origin of the nam e is obscure, but Sir H . Yule thinks it is most

prob ably a corruption of Bhagavati, the nam e of an idol, of whichthe coin bears a representation. (See Hobson-Jobson.)2 Th e words " or English Angel" are not in the original. Th e

zecchino (familiarly sequin) was worth about qs. d. of our money.It is so called from Zecca, " mint". An angel was worth about IOJ .It was so called from having the figure of an angel on it.

P



210 ARRA NGEMENTS FOR TH E JOURNEY

sent to tell our Ambassador that, having sent word of our

arrival to the Court, the grea t Ministers had acquaintedVenk-tapd Naieka therewith, who was still so afflictedfor the death of his Wife that he went not forth in Publick,nor suffer'd himself to be seen ; when they told him ofthis matter he stood a while without answering, and atlength said onely that they might come when they please.W hereupon his Courtiers, seeing him in this mood, wouldnot reply further to him concerning provisions of thejourney to be sent to the Ambassador, persons to conveyhis Goods and other such things ; wherefore Vitula Sinaysaid that Sig. Gio. Fernandez might consider what to do,whether to put himself on the way towards the Courtwithout further waiting, or to have him w rite again andstay for an Answer, for he would do which he p leas'd.Sig. Gio. Fernandez, as well for the credit of his Embassy

as to avoid charges, was desirous to have provisions for th ejourney, Men to carry his Goods, and other greate r con-veniences, although in publick, and with us of his company,he did not testifie so much, being willing to have it thoughtthat Vitula Sinay did this Office for him at the Court uponhis own motion and not at his r eq ue st ; yet I know tha tin secret he us'd great instance with Vitula, Sinay, both byW riting and by Speech, by the mediation of an Interp reter,tha t he would write again to the Court and set forth toVenk-tapd how that he was the A mbassador of so grea t aKing, the first Monarch of Christians (for so I heard himtell the Interpreter, though he spoke with a low voice), andtha t it was not seemly for him to go in that manner, butthat people should be sent to him for his journey, andpersons to receive him, and commands given to Venk-tapd'sMinisters tha t he migh t pass through his Territories withthat conveniency and decency which was requisite; thatsince he was now within two or three days' journey of theCourt he would stay another week at Onor, and longer, if



INTER VIEW WITH VITULA SINAY. 21 1

need were, till a better Answer came; and that, if hethought it expedient, Vitula Sinay himself might go beforeto do this Office, as he that might do it best, and whoought to arrive at the Court before him, the A mbassador,who afterwards might come thither alone by easie journeysafter he had sent him an Answer. The same night theInterpreter returned with this message to Vitula Sinay,who was lodged on the other side of the River in his ownKing's jurisdiction.

October the nine and twentieth. After we had heardMass in Saint Antonie's JEgypt1 Sig. Gio. Fernandez wasminded to go in person to visit Vitula Sinay and speakto him about the above mentiori'd matter ; wherefore,entring with us into one of those boats which they callManeive,2 going with twenty, or four and twenty, Oars,onelydiffering from the Almadies3 in that the Maneive have a

large cover'd room in the poop, sever'd from the banks ofrowers, and are greater than the Alm adies, which have nosuch room, we pass'd out of the Port, and thence from themouth of the River Southward went to land upon thecontinent, where Vitula Sinay, having been advertis'd ofour coming, expected us under the shade of certain littleHills and Trees, of which all this Country is full. Thiswas the first time tha t I set foot in any place of theGentiles where they bear sway themselves.

Sig. Gio. Fernandez spoke a long while and alone withVitula Sinay, both of them sitting upon a Carpet spreadupon the grass ; and at length, the discourse being ended,the Ambassador took boat again, and returned to Onor.Upon the way he told us that Vitula Sinay said that ineither case of his writing again, or going in person to the

1 Meaning church of St. Antony of Egypt . See ante, p. 203.2 Sometimes called Manchua.3 Se e a7ite, p. 122, note.

P 2



21 2 DISPLEASURE OF VENK-TAPA NAVAKA.

Court, and waiting for a new Answer, many daycs wouldbe lost, therefore it seem'd best to him tha t we should allput ourselves upon the way without further waiting; andthat to carry his (the Ambassador's) Goods they hadappointed ten Men according to his King's order; where-fore Sig. Fernandez told us he was resolv'd to go by allmeans, and seeing the ten men allow'd him to carry hisGoods were not sufficient, they alone requiring twenty-five,besides those of the rest of his Company , he wouldhire the rest at his own charge and rid himself of thisperplexity.

By this change of opinion after this interview I under-stood that Vitula Sinay had spoken in such sort that Sig.Fernandez perceiv'd that this coldness of sending himgreater accommodations for his journey was not so muchthrough the King's m elancholy for his Wife's dea th andthe present confusion of the Court, as for some othercause ; and the alledging loss of time in waiting for a newAnswer was but an excuse of Vitul<i; but, in fine, thetruth could be no other than that they would not givehim any greater Provisions, because Venk-tapd, was notwell pleased with this Em bassie. And, to confirm this, Iknow tha t before Sig. Fernandez departed from Goa

Venk-tapd Naieka writ thither to his Ambassador, VitulaSinay, that if they sent this Em bassie to urge the restitu-tion of the State and Fortress of Bang/iel,1 which he hadlately taken from a small Indian-Prince , neighbour toJMangal or? who lived under the Portugals' protection (forwhose defence two or three years before the Portugalshad made warr with Venk-tapd Naieka, and receiv'd anotable defeat by h im), it was in vain, and that Sig.Gio. Fernandez (now first known to him) might forbear

1 Banghel is for Bangher, or Banghervan, a place of no importance.- A port on the west coast, in la t. 12° 54' N., probab ly iden tical

•with the Man garuth of Cosm as. (See Yule's Cathay,vo\. i, p. clxxviii.)



INSOL ENC E OF VENK -TAPA NAYAKA. 21 3

to undertake this journey, for that he was fully resolv'dnot to restore it, nor yet to give seven thousand Pagods1

yearly to that Prince, as he had promised upon agreement,unless he went to live out of those Territories taken fromhim, either in Goa, or in Mangalbr, or elsewhere, he pre-tending at least a purpose to return to live with thatannuity in the lands once his own, privately in hopes,perhaps, to raise some new commotion one day. So that,Venk-tapa Naieka knowing that one of the principal

businesses of this Em bassie was that of the Prince ofBangkel, which little pleas'd him ; and feeling also that thisyear the Ships from Portugal were not yet arriv'd (whichevery year fetch Pepper out of his Dominions, and bringhim in a g reat sum of money, by agreem ent made with thePortugals, who every year were either to take it, or pay forit), so that, neither the Ships nor the money coming this

year, they could not easily pay him for the Pepper this year,nor yet for a great part of that of the last, for which, byreason of the loss of their Ships, they still owed him ;and lastly, observing the Portugals w eakened and low, sothat they not onely stood in need of him, but now, insome sort, began to submit themselves to him with thisEmbassie which they sent to him ; and remembering thedisgrace of their pass'd de fea t; 'twas no strange thing that,being become insolent thereupon, as 'tis the manner of theBarbarians, and designing to carry it high over them, henot onely shew'd no great liking of the Embassie, butmade little account of it; and in a manner despis'd it,that so he m ight keep himself and his affairs in greaterreputation.

IX.—October the thirtieth. Sig. Gio. Fernandez, beingresolv'd to depart the next day, sent some Horses beforeupon this day, with som e of his Family. The same Evening

1 See ante, p. 200, note.



2 1 4 NEWS FROM GOA.

one from Goa brough t News of the arrival there of somePortugals of the fleet1 which came this year from Portugal,consisting of four great tra ding Ships, two Shallops andfour Galeons of W a r r ; which last come in order to beconsign'd to Ruy Freira for the War of Ormilz, the lossof which place, and the deliverance of Ruy Freira out ofprison, being already known at the Court of Spain, but notthe loss of the ships of the Flee t last year. The Portugalsarriv'd in Goa, according to the abovesaid intelligence, camein one of the Galeons of the Fleet which is coming, which,being separated from the rest, toucht at Mozambique, andthere, being old and shatter'd, was lost, onely all the Peopleand Goods were sav'd and came in othe r ships to Goa;and, being2 the rest of the fleet delays so long, 'tis con-ceiv'd to have held a course without the Island of SaintLorenzo? which uses to take up more time. Th ey relate

also that the Marriage4 between Spain and England isconcluded, and that the Prince of England is now in Spain,being come thither incognito before the conclusion of theMarriage which was shortly expected.

1 The commercial intercourse between the Portuguese and thenative States on the coast was at this time already affected by the

rivalry of the Dutch merchants. The system adopted by the Portu-guese of depending on fleets despatched at fixed intervals by theGovernment was unable to cope with the superior vigour of the Dutchtraders, who brought their individual energies into play.

2 For " since", see ante, p. 27, note.3 That is, Island of Madagascar, which was originally named St.

Lorenzo, after Lorenzo Dalmeida, who discovered it in 1506. It wasafterwards called " Isle Dauphin". For an account of the sack andcapture of this island by A. Dalboquerque, see Commentaries of A.Dalboquerque, vol. i, pp. 29 and 30, and for another reference to it seeidem, vol. iv, p. 107, and Barbosa's East Africa, p. 13 (Hakluyt edit).The word " without" means, of course, " westward of".

4 Or rather " matrimonial agreement", regarding the marriage ofPrince Charles with the Infanta, which, as is well known, did notafter all, take place.



CONCLUSION OF LETTER IV. 2 1 5

It be ing already very late I shall not longer deferrconcluding this Letter, because it is requisite for me to goand take a little rest, tha t I may be fit for my journey to-morrow Morning, if it please God ; to whom I heartilycommend you, and with my accustomed affection kissyour H and s. From Onor, October 30, 1623.



LETTER V.From Ikkeri} Novemb. 22, 1623.

*

m

WRITE to you from Ikkeri, the RoyalCity and Seat of Vcnk-tapA Naicka?whither I am come and where I ampresent. I shall give you an account

of the Audience which our Ambas-sador hath had of this King, who, in

my judgment, should rather be call'd a.Regutus, or Royoletalthough the Portiigals and Indians give him the honor ofa Royal Title ; being4 he hath in effect neither State, Court,nor appearance, befitting a true King. I shall describe toyou every particular that is not unworthy your Curiosity,

1 Called Eck uiree in modern ma ps, in lat. 14° 7' N., an d long .7° 3' E., to the south-cast of H onaw ar, in the Shivam oga district ofMaisur. He re, according to Sir H. Yule, the coins called Pag od aswere first struck . (See Hobson-Jobson, article Pag od .) It is not aplace of any impo rtance in the present day, thoug h it was formerlythe capital of the Keladi chiefs until they removed to Bedn ur, on thecoas t, in 1645. (See ante, p. 168.) The walls of th e town wereformerly of grea t extent and enclosed a palace and citadel. All tha tnow remain s is a large stone temple of Ag horesw ara. It contain seffigies of three chiefs. (See H un ter 's Gazetteer, sub v.)

- See ante, p. 168, note.z In Italian Regolo, a little king : Royolet, from Roitelet, an old

French word meaning the same.4 Fo r since , see ante, p. 27, note.



DEPAR TURE FROM ONOR. 21 7

and adjoyn some other of my Relations and Descriptionsof the Idolatrous Gentiles, their vain Superstitions andCeremonies about their Idols, Tem ples and Pagods.1 WhatI shall now set down mine own Eyes have witness'd t o ;and I shall not fear being too tedious in describing things,perhaps over minutely, in these Letters, since I know youare delighted therewith and out of your great erudition canmake reflections upon the Rites used in these parts of theW orld, which in m any things are not unlike the ancientÊgyptian Idola try. For I am perswaded to believe, notwithout the authority of ancient Authors, that the worshipof Isis and Osiris1 was common to JEgypt and this Region,as in Philostratus I find Apollonius affirming3 that in Indiahe saw the Statues not onely of the Êgyptian, but alsoof the Grecian, gods, as of Apollo, Bacchus and Minerva.

But to return to the particulars of my journey ; on October

the one and thirtie th, after one a clock in the Afternoon,we departed from Onor with Sig. Gio. Fernandez in aMancinaf or Barge, and the rest of the Family in a lessBoat. Vitula Sinay, who was to go with us, we left inreadiness to set forth after us, I know not whether bywater, or by Land. W e row'd up the River, which runs

1

Or Pag od as, a word, as comm only used, synonymou s with"temples". See ante, p. 209, note.

2 This statement raises a question which cannot be fully discussedin a foot-note. But assum ing— as is prob ably the case, and as is posi-tively stated by Diodorus—that Isis and Osiris really represent themoon and sun respectively, the statement here made may be acceptedas probab ly correct. Sir W . Jones came to the conclusion that thegod s of G reece and of India had one comm on origin, an d that " thewhole crowd of god s and godde sses of ancient Rom e and Hin dostanmean only the powers of nature".

3 Th is state m en t of Apollonius can not be literally true, thoug h hem ay of course have found no difficulty in con nectin g the statues ofHindu deities with those of Greek mythology by some outward marksof resemblance.

4 For Man chua. See ante, p . 211.



2l8 SOVEREIGNTY OF WOMEN.

Southward to Onor, against the Stream, making use both

of Sail and Oars ; and a little before night, having goneabout three Leagues, we came to Garsopfc and there

lodg'd. This place was sometimes a famous City, Me-

tropolis of the Province and Seat of a Que en : in which

State, as likewise in many others upon the Coast of India,

to this day a Woman frequently hath the sovereignty;

Daughters, or other nearest kinswomen, begotten by what-

ever Father, succeeding the Mothers ; these Gentiles having

an opinion (as 'tis indeed) that the Issue by the woman-

side is much more sure of the blood and lineage of the

Ancestors than that by the Man-side. 2

The last Queen of Garsopa fell in Love with a mean Man

and a stranger, into whose power she resign'd herself,together with her whole kingdom. In which act, setting

aside her choosing a Lover of base blood, upon which

account she was blam'd and hated by the Indians (who

1 Or Gairsappa (more correctly Gerusappe), well known on accountof the magnificent waterfall (on the river Sheravati) in its vicinity,often spoken of as the Grasshopper falls", a good instance of thetransformation of Oriental names. It is curious that P. della Vallemakes no reference to this waterfall.

2 This refers to the custom (called by Sir R. Burton Murroo-muka-ta-yum"; see Goa and the Blue Mountains, p. 208) prevalent amongthe Nairs, or Nayars, the ruling race in these parts, of restrictinginheritance to the female line, an inevitable result of their system ofpolyandry. The custom is well known to have prevailed in otherparts of the world (see Heriot's Canada, vol. i, p. 509, Sir J. Lubbock'sOrigin of Civilization, pp. 87 and 154, and other authorities). Agreat deal of information on the subject of succession through femalesmay be found in a book, called The Development of Marriage andKinship, by C. Staniland Wake (G. Redway). As to the Nairs andtheir customs, an interesting account will be found in the Descrip-

tion of Malabar, by D. Barbosa (? Magellan), published by theHakluyt Society in 1866, at p. 124, etc., and also in the Report of theCommission, which, under the orders of the Government of Indiamade a special inquiry, in 1891, into Malabar customs of marriageand inheritance, and in Sir R. Burton's book already quoted, p. 215et seq., and in Westermarck's History of Hum an Marriage.



QU EEN OF GARSOPA. 2IO.

are most rigorous observers of Nobility and maintainersof the dignity of their ancestors in all points) as to givingherself up as a prey to her lover, she committed no faultagainst her honor ; for in these Countries 'tis lawful for suchQueens to choose to themselves Lovers or Husbands, oneor more, according as they please. But this Man who wasso favor'd by the Queen of Garsopa, having though ts asignoble as his blood, in stead of corresponding with grati-tud e to the Queen's courtesie, design'd to rebell againsther and take the kingdom from her ; which design for a whilehe executed, having in process of time gain'd the affectionof most of her m ost eminent vassals. The Queen, seeingher self oppress'd by the Tray tor , had recourse to thePortugals, offering them her whole State on condition theywould free her from im minent ruine. But the Portugals,according as they had alwayes in India done by their

friends (whereby they have been many times the ruine ofothers and themselves too) did not succour her till it wastoo late and then very coldly. On the other side theTraytor (as his ill fate, or rather God's just anger, wouldhave it) call'd to his assistance against the Queene and thePortugals his Neighbour Venk-tapa Naieka} now Masterof those Countries. Venk-tapa Naieka, taking advantageof the occasion, enter'd suddenly into the kingdom ofGarsopa with great diligence and force, so that, shortly be-coming Master of the whole Country and the City Royal,and having driven out the Portugals who came to defend it,he took the Queen Prisoner and carry'd her to his own Court;where being kept, although honourably, she ended herdays in an honourable prison. But the Tray tor under-wentthe punishment of his crime, for Venk-tapa Naieka caus'd

him to be slain ; and, for more secure keeping that State inhis power, caus'd the City and Royal Palace of Garsopa to be




22O BEA UTIFU L SCENERY.

destroy 'd, so that at th is day that lately flourishing Cityis become nothing but a Wood, Trees being already grownabove the ruines of the Houses, and the place scarcely in-habited by four Cottages of Peasants.

II.—But, returning to my travel, 1 must not omit tha tthe three Leagues of this journey was one of the mostdelightful passages that ever I made in my life ; for thecountry on either side is very beautiful, not consisting ofPlains that afford onely an ordinary prospect, nor of tow-ring mountains, but of an unequal surface, Hills andValleys, all green and delightful to th e eyes, cloth'd withthick and high Groves, and many times with fruit Treesas Indian Nuts, Foufcl, Ambe, and such like,1 all water'dwith innum erable Rivulets and Springs of fresh water ;the sides of the River all shady, beset with Flowers, Herbsand sundry Plants, which, like Ivy,2 creeping about theTrees and Indian reeds of excessive height, (call'd by theCountry-people Bambii? and very thick along the banks)make the wood more ve rdant ; through the middlewhereof the River strayes with sund ry windings. Inshort, the River of Garsopa, for a na tural thing withoutany artificial o rnament of buildings, or the like, is thegoodliest River that ever I beheld.4

Our boats, being large, could not go to the ordinarylanding-place at Garsopa, because the River, which is dis-charg'd into the Sea with one stream, is there divided intomany, which fall from several Springs upon some neigh-

1 I.e., areca nut and man goes. See ante, pp. 36 and 40.2 Probab ly the plant Aralia digitata, comm on in this par t of

India, having a resemblance to ivy.:i A Ma lay word. Th e well-known Bambusa arundinacea, or

bamboo. Th e Indian name is Bans.4 Mr. Eastwick, in his Handbook of the Madras Presidency, speaking

of this locality, sa ys : " Eve n the most phleg ma tic person cannot buthave his enthu siasm some wha t kindled by the scenery." (P. 308.)



THE PEPPER COUNTRY. 221

bouring Hills, so tha t the water is but little. Whereforewe landed at some distance from Garsopa, which stands onthe South-bank of the River, and walkt the rest of the wayon foot, and our goods were carry'd upon the Men'sshou lders whom we had hir'd for tha t purpose . Before wegot to our lodging it was night, and we were fain to wadeover one of the arms of the River which took me up to themiddle of the th ig h ; the bottom was stony, and not sodangerous to us (who were free) in reference to falling asto the poor men who carry'd burthens upon their h ea ds ;so that I wonder'd not tha t he who carry'd the hamperof my clothes fell down with it and wetted it in thewater.

At length we lodg'd, not within the compass of Garsopa,which was somewhat within land, but near it upon theRiver, in a place cover'd with a roof amongst certain Trees,

where many are wont to lodge, and where the Pepper isweigh'd and contracted for when the Portugals come tofetch it: for this is the Country wherein greatest plenty ofPepper grows; for which reason the Queen of Garsopawas wont to be call'd by the Portugals, Reyna da Pimento.}that is, Queen of Pepper. The River is call'd by thePortugals the River of Garsopa, but by the Indians in their

own Language one branch is term'd Ambit, nidi? and theother Sara nidi. From the River's mouth, where it fallsinto the Sea, to Garsopa, the way, if I mistake not, isdirectly East.

III.—November the first. After dinner we departed fromour station, and, passing by the Cottages and the placeswhere the City of Garsopa sometime stood, we walk'd a

1 Strictly speaking, the " Pimenta", or " Pimento", is the allspice(not pepper) of commerce, being the berry of the shrub Eugenia•pime?ita, which grows only in the W. Indies. Pepper is the productof the plant Piper nigrum.

2 Nidi for nadi, Sanskrit for " river".



222 ASCENT OF THE GHAT.

good way Southwards, or rather South South-west, always

through an uneven, woody, Country, irrigated with waterand delightful, like the banks of the River which Idescrib'd. Then we began to climb up a M ountain, whichthe Country people call Gat} and which divides the wholelength of this part of India, being wash'd on the East withthe Gulph of Bengala, and on the W est w ith the Ocean, orSea of Goa? The ascent of this Mountain is not veryrough, but rather easie and pleasant like the other parts,being thick set with Groves of T rees of excessive grea t-ness ; some of them so strait that one alone might servefor the Mast of a Ship. W ithall the Mountain is sowater'd with Rivulets and Fountains, that, me-thought,I saw the most delightful place of the Appennine in Italy.If there be any difference, the Gat of India hath theadvantage in this place, because the height is much less

than that of our Appennine, the ascent more easy, the woodmore beautiful and thick, the wa ters not less plentifuland clear. If the Gat yields to it in any thing, 'tis inthe frequency of inhabited places, the sumptuousness ofbuildings, and, lastly, in the beauty which the industriousart of the inhabitants adds to the Appennine ; the IndianGat having no other, besides what liberal, yet unpolished,Nature gives it.

About three hours after noon we came to the top of theGat, where, a little beneath the highest cliff, is found akind of barr'd Gate, with a wall in a narrow pass, whichrenders the place sufficiently strong ; a little further thanwhich, in the top of all, are found ear then Bulwarks andlines, which guard the passage ; and in this place is a

1 Properly Gkdt, or Ghdtta, Sanskrit for "step" . See p. 185, note.- There are, in fact, two ranges of mountains, called the Eastern and

Western Ghdts, not one single range, as our traveller supposed, withan elevated table-land between them.



TEM PLE OF HANUMAN. 22 3

sufficient Fo rtress, it being a mile and half in circuit Itwas sometimes call'd Garicota} but now Govarada-Naghar.We lodg'd about a Musket-shot without the Fort, in aplane and somewhat low place, where are some Houseslike a Village, and amongst them a T emple of Hamant?who is one of those two Scimiones% who were employ'dby Ramo* for recovering his Wife Sita, as their Fablesrelate ; for which good work and their other miraclesthe Indians adore them. He re I saw his Sta tue in theTemple with burning lights before it, and a consecratedSilver Hand hung up by some devout person, perhapscur'd of some evil of his Hands.

Below this place where we lodg'd, amongst the littleValleys of the Hill, is a fair and large Cistern, or R ecep-tacle of water, which falls thereinto from a River descend-ing from the Mountain, the over-plus running into

the lower Valleys. A t night we heard Musick at theGate of the above-mention'd Temple, divers barbarousInstruments sounding, and amongst the rest certain greatHorns of Metal, fashion'd almost into a semicircle. Iask'd the reason of this Festival, and they told me theIdol was to go presently, accompany'd with a greatnumber of Men and Women, in pilgrimage to a place

1 Probably Girikot, or " Hill-fort".2 M isprint for '" H an im an t" in the original. Prope rly " Ha num an",

the monkey-god, son of Pavana (the wind).3 Italian for apes.4 A reference to the legend, acco rding to which Ra m a (darkness),

son of D as an ath a (he of th e ten chariots), King of Ayod hya (Oude),an incarnation of Vishnu, led an army of apes (generally supposed tohave been aboriginal tribes) against Rav ana, the ten-headed demonof La nka (Ceylon), who had carried off S ita (moon), wife of R am a,dau ghte r of Jan aka , King of Viddha. For an interesting explanationof the hidden meaning of this legend, see Notes on the Early Historyof Northern India, by J. F. Hewitt, Part VI, in the Journal'of'the RoyalAsiatic Society, Art. xiv, vol. xxii, p. 742.



224 A FEMALE SAINT.

of their devotion near San Tome} a moneth's journey

and more ; and that it was to be carry'd in a Palanchino,as the custom is, and in procession with sundry soundsand songs, almost in th e same manner as am ongst usChristians the Bodies, or Images, of Saints are carry'din procession when any Community, or Fraternity, goin pilgrimage to Loreto, or Rome, in the Holy year.A t this time assisted at the service of the Idol, am ongstothers, a Woman, who, they said, was so abstinent thatshe did not so much as eat Rice ; they held her for akind of Saint, upon a fame that the Idol delighted tosleep with her, which these silly souls accounted a g rea tspiritual favour; and, haply, it may be true th at someincubus-Devil has to do with her and deceives her withfalse illusions, telling her th a t he is her God ; of whichkind of Women there are many among the Moors?

Divers come to ask her abou t future things, and she,consulting the Idol, gives them their answer; one ofthese interrogations was made to her whilst we werepresent. Others came to offer Fru its and o ther ediblesto the Idol, which one of the Priests presented to it,murmuring his Orisons, and taking half of the thingsoffer'd, (which, after presentation to the Idol, remainsto the servants of the Temple), he restores the otherhalf to him that offer'd them ; and, were it bu t an

1 Or St. Thomas. A place on the east coast, reputed to have beenthe scene of martyrdom of St. Thom as the Apostle, formerly knownas Mihilaropye or Mihilapiir, and identified by Prof. H. Wilson withMailapur {Trans, of R. A. S., vol. i, p. 161). For further references tothis place see Bishop Ueber's/ournal (vol. iii, p. 212, 4th edit.) and SirH. Yule's Marco Polo (vol. ii, p. 290 et sea.). Some authorities mention

Kalamina as the place of the Saint's martyrdom (A.D. 68). (SeeEastwick's Handbook of Madras, p. 152.)s The word "Moors" seems to be inserted by mistake for "Gentiles",

for the superstition referred to is held rather by Hindus than byMuhammadans. (See Mceurs des peuples de PInde, by Dubois, vol. ii,P- 59-)



INDIAN SOLDIERS. 22$

Ind ian Nut, he splits it in two before the Idol and giveshalf to him that brought it, who takes the same withreverence, and is afterwards to eat it with devotion assacred food and tasted of by the Idol.

In the Evening, by the Captain of the Fort (who wasa Moor of Dacdn} and sometime an Officer under oneHJelik,2 a Captain of Adil-Scidh? on the Frontiers of Goa,but being taken Prisoner in a War between Adil-Scidhand Venk-tapd Naieka, and afterwards set at liberty,remained in the service of Venk-tapd, and hath beenabout five-and-twenty years Governour of this Fortressand is called Mir Baif was sent a Present of SugarCanes, and other refreshments to eat, to S ig : Gio: Fer-nandez ; whom also the same night Vituld Sinay, whotravell'd with us but apart by himself, came to visit,and entertain'd with the sight of two young men, who

fenc'd very well a good while together, onely with Swordsmade of Indian Canes. On which occasion, I shall not omitto state that amongst the Indians 'tis the custom for everyone to manage and make use of one sort of Arm s, where-unto he accustoms himself, and never uses any other,even in time of War. So tha t some Souldiers fight onelywith Swords, others with Sword and Buckler, others withLances, others with Bows and Arrows, and others withMuske ts ; and so every one with his own arms, neverchanging the same, but thereby becoming very expertand well prac tis'd in that which he takes to. Th e wayfrom Garsopd to Govarada NagJiar was about five or sixmiles and no more.

November the second. Ea rly in the Morning VituldSinay first visited Sig: Gio: Fernandez, and afterwards

1 See ante, p. 141, note. 2 See ante, p. 34, note 3.3 Sea ante, p. 143, note 5.4 Literally "noble governor1. The last of these two titles is more

familiarly known as "B ey", a corruption of the Turkish " B e g \

Q



22 6 A VISIT OF CEREMONY.

the Captain of the Fort, accompanied by a great number

of his Souldiers with several Arms, but most had Pikes,Lances in the form of half Pikes, and Swords ; one ly twohad Swords and Bucklers : one of them had a short andvery broad Sword like a Cortelax,1 but the edge-part bowedinwards after a strange fashion. Those two with Swordsand Bucklers came before the Captain, dancing andskirmishing after their manner, as if they fought together.The visit was receiv'd in the Porch of the little Templeabove mention'd and lasted a good while. Vituld Sinay,who spoke the Portugal-Tongue well, serv'd for interpre terbetween our Am bassado r and the Captain, and handsom ely2

intima ted to the Am bassador tha t when he return'd backit was fit to give a present to this Captain and visit him inthe Fo r t ; that the Custom was so, and he had alreadydone the like to the Ambassador ; that since he did it not

now he had already made an excuse for it, by telling himthat the baggage was gone before, and that he did not goto visit him because he had no pre sent to carry him, buthe would do it at his return. A t the end of this visitVituld Sinay caus'd a little Silver basket to be brought fullof the leaves of Betle? (an herb which the Indians arealways eating, and to the sight not unlike the leaves of

Cedars4

) and, giving it to the Ambassador, he told him thathe should present it to the Captain, the Custom being soin India for the person visited to give Bet/e-\eaves to thevisitant, where-with the visit ends. The Ambassador didso, and the Captain, without taking any of these leaves,whether it were the custom, or that, being a Moor, he didnot use it, (which yet I believe not) gave it to certain persons

1 From Spanish cortar, "to cut , hence our word cutlass (Webster'sDictionary).

2 In the original "con bel modo". s See ante, p. 36, note 1.4 It is difficult to understand how the leaves of Piper betelium could

be held to resemble those of the cedar. Th ey are mo re like vine-leaves.



A VILLAGE SCHOOL. 227

of qualitie, who stood beside him and had accompany'dhim; neither did any of them touch the leaves, but thebasket went from hand to hand till it was carry'd away asfull as it was presented ; which being done, the Captainfirst, and then Vituld Sinay, took leave and departed.

V.—After we had din'd about noon, or soon after, ourAmbassador went away alone with his Chaplain, out ofimpatience to stay longer in that place ; the rest of us re-main'd, expecting the removing of all our baggage, whichwas very slow in departing, because the Men who carry'dthe same upon their heads were not sufficient and theburthe ns were too heavy; so that it was needful to hiremore and increase the number of Porters to thirty-sixbesides mine, which I hir'd for myself apart, and, becauseneithe r were these enough, it was needful to lade twoOxen, who carry'd Goods for four other Men; and this

took up much time, because neither the Men nor thebeasts which were hir'd were ready, but were to be soughtfor here and there.

In the mean time, while the burthens were getting inorder, I entertain'd myself in the Porch of the Temple, be-holding little boys learning Arithmetick after a strangemanner,1 which I will here relate . They were four, and

having all taken the same lesson from the Master, in orderto get that same by heart and repeat likewise their formerlessons and not forget them, one of them singing musicallywith a certain con tinu'd tone, (which hath the force ofmaking deep impression in the memory) recited part of thelesson; as, for exam ple, " One by its self makes one" ; andwhilst he was thus speaking he writ down the same number,not with any kind of Pen, nor on Paper, but (not to spendPaper in vain) with his finger on the ground, the pavement

1 A similar scene may be witnessed in the village schools of Indiaat the present day. (See Sir Monier Williams' Modern India, p. 220.)

Q 2



228 JOURNEY CONTINUED.

being for that purpose strew'd all over with very fine sand;

after the first had writ what he sung, all the rest sung andwrit down the same thin g together. The n the first boysung and writ down ano ther pa rt of the lesson ; as, forexample, " Two by its self make two", which all the restrepeated in the same manner, and so forward in order.When the pavement was full of figures they put them outwith the hand, and, if need were, strew'd it with new sandfrom a little heap which they had before them wherewithto write further. And thus they did as long as the exercisecontin u'd ; in which manner likewise, they told me, theylearnt to read and write without spoiling Paper, Pens, orInk, which certainly is a prety way. I ask'd them, if theyhappen 'd to forget, or be mistaken in any pa rt of thelesson, who corrected and taugh t them ? they being allScholars without the assistance of any Master; they

answer'd me and said true, that it was not possible for allfour of them to forget, or mistake in the same part, andthat thus they exercis'd together, to the end that if onehappen'd to be out the others migh t correct him. Indeeda prety, easie and secure way of learning.

VI.—Having seen this Curiosity, and our baggage beingladen, we all set forth after the Am bassador, and Vitula

Sinay set out together with us. W e travell'd first Eas t-ward, then South-ward, but many times I could not ob-serve which way our course tended; we went upon theridge of a Hill, and through uneven wayes, sometimesascend ing and sometimes descending, but always in themiddle of great thick Groves full of Grass and runningwater, no less delightful then the former Fie lds . A littlemore than half a League from the F or t we found aMesckita1 of the Moors, built upon the way, with a Lake, or

1 A Spanish corruption of the Arabic word masjid, derived from theverb sajada, " to bend", or " bow down", generally render ed in En glishas "mosque", a Muhammadan temple.



INDIAN TORCHES. 22 9

Receptacle of water, but not very well contriv'd by theCaptain of the said Fort, which his King had allow'd himto m ake as a great favour; for the Gentiles are not wont tosuffer in their Countries Temples of other Religions. Herewe found our Ambassador, who stay 'd for us; and wetarry'd likewise here above an hour in expectation of ourbaggage, much of which was still behind.

A t length continuing our journey, and having rested agood while in ano ther place, night cam e upon us in themidst of a Wood, so shady that although we had very clearMoon-light yet we were fain to light Torches, otherwisewe could not see our way. The Torches used in India arenot like ours, but made of metal in form of those wherewiththe Infernal Furies are painted, the fire of which is fedwith Bitumen and other dry materials, which are put intothe mouth, or hollow at the top, into which also they

frequently powre a combustible liquor,1 which the Man

that holds the Torch carries in his other hand in a metallinebottle, with a long slender neck, very fit for that purpose;for when he is m inded to recruit the flame he distillsa little liquor into it, the length of the neck securinghis hand from hur t. By the light of these Torches wetravell'd a great part of the night.

A t length, being unab le to overtake the Horses whichwere led before, and the baggage being behind, for fear oflosing our way we stay'd under a great Tree, where somein Palanchinoes1 and others upon the ground spent thisnight inconveniently and supper-less, having nothing elseto eat but a little Bread, which we toasted at the fire thatwe might eat it hot; and with the same fire which wekindled we allay'd the coldness of the night, which in the

1 Th e liquor g enerally used is mustard-oil, m ade from the seed ofSinapis Chinensis.




23O COW-DUNG AS A VAR NISH.

top of these Indian Mountains is very cold in regard oftheir height; yet it was not sharper to us this night thanit uses to be at Rome in the beginning of September, evenin temperate years.

November the third. As soon as it was day we follow'dour way, and in a short time cam e to a Village of fourCottages, call'd Tumbre, where the Horses were lodg'd,and we also stay'd till the baggage came up, which wasmuch later then we ; and we stay'd th e longer to restthe people that travell'd on foot: for all the Servants,and I know not how many Musketiers, which our Ambas-sador carry'd with him, were on foot. Vituld. Sinay laythere likewise this night, b ut was gone before we cam ethither. From Garicota to Tumbre is about a Leagueand a half; for in this Country they measure the wayby Gaits, and every Gail1 is about two Leagues, and

they said that from Garicota to Tumbre was not oneGail.

VII.— W hen we arriv'd at this Town we found thepavements of the Cottages were varnish'd over with Cow-dung m ix'd w ith w ate r; a custom of the Gentiles inthe places where they are wont to eat, as I have formerlyobserv'd. I took it for a superstitious R ite of Relig ion ;

but I since better understand that it is us'd only forelegancy and ornament, because not using, or not knowinghow to make, such strong and lasting pavements as ours,theirs being made sleightly of Earth and so easily spoyl'd,therefore when they are minded to have them plain,

1 One meaning of the word is said to be the distance at which thelowing of a cow may be heard, which could hardly be so much as twoleagues. Th ere is a native measure of distance called Gaudia, thesame as the Tamil Naliguai, which ha s probably the sam e origin.(See Smith's Dictionary of Greek and Roman Geography, vol. iip. 1092.) Sir Em erson Ten nen t says that the word in Ceylon " m ea nsthe distance which a man can walk in an hour" (vol. i, p. 543).



A PRETTY CURIOSITY. 23 1

smooth and firm, they smear the same over with Cow-dung temper'd with water, in case it be not liquid (forif it be there needs no water), and plaining it eitherwith their hands, or some other instrument, and so makeit smooth, bright, strong and of a fine green colour, theCows whose dung they use never eating anything butGrass ; and it ha th one convenience, that th is polishingis presently m ade, is soon dry and endures walking,or any th ing else, to be done upon it ; and the Houseswherein we lodg'd we found were preparing thus at ourcoming, and were presently dry enough for our use.Indeed this is a prety Curiosity, and I intend to causetryal to be made of it in Italy, and the rather becausethey say for certain that the Houses whose pavementsare thus stercorated,1 are good against the Plague,2 whichis no despicable advantage. One ly it ha th this evil, that

its handsomeness and politeness lasteth not, but requiresfrequent renovation, and he tha t would have it handsom emust renew it every eight, or ten, days; yet, being a thingeasie to be done and of so little charge, it matters notfor a little trouble which every poor person knows howto dispatch. Th e Portugals use it in their Houses atGoa and other places of India; and, in brief, 'tis certainthat it is no superstitious custom, but onely for neatnessand ornament; and therefore 'tis no wonder that theGentiles use it often and perhaps every day, in placeswhere they eat, which above all the rest are to be veryneat.

T i s true they m ake a Religious Rite of not eating inany place where people of another Sect, or Race, (in theirown opinion unclean) hath eaten, unless they first re-

1 A somew hat ped antic word, for which, however, the authority ofBacon may be cited.

2 This is an exaggeration, but the practice has, no doubt, somesanitary adva ntage s. (See Moor's Hindoo Pantheon, p. 141.)



2 32 SUPERSTITION OF THE GENTILES.

polish the same with Cow-dung, which is a kind of purifi-

cation : as we do by washing it with water, and whiten-ing the wall (not as a Religious Rite , bu t throughCustom), in Chambers where any one has dy'd. I said,where people not onely of different Religion, bu t alsoof impure Race, have eaten, because the Gentiles arevery rigorous and superstitious among themselves fora noble Race not to hold Commerce of eating with othersmore base; yea, in one and the same Race (as in thatof the Brachmans, which is the noblest), some Brachmans(as the Panditix or Bod, 2 who are held in great esteemamongst them), will no t eat in the Com pany, or so muchas in the House, of a Brachman, Sinay9 or Naieke* andother Nobles who eat Fish, and are call'd by the generalname Mazari? and much less esteem'd then those whoeat none ; yet the Brachmans, Sinay and Naieke, or other

species of Mazari, who are inferior, eat in the House ofa Pandito, or Boto, without being contaminated, but ratheraccount it an honor.6

VIII.—After dinner we departed from Tumbre, travel-ling through unequal wayes and lands like the former, butrather descending than otherwise ; we rested once a whileunder a Tree, to stay for the baggage, and then proceeding

1 San skrit for " learned men".a See ante, p. 80, note.3 Properly Sinaia, the name of a Brahman caste.4 The se are the military caste (from San skrit Nayaka, " a chief"),

who rank next below the Brah ma ns. Th e title of" Nair" is supposed bySir R. Burton {Goa and the Blue Mountains, p. 215) to be derivedfrom Nayaka.

6 This term is usually applied to a tribe employed solely in the

cultivation of the soil, but is he re used in a mo re ge ner al sense todenote a lower caste than that of Brahmans.6 More striking instanc es than th is of the venera tion with w hich

Brah ma ns are regard ed by inferior castes might be men tioned. Fo rone special instance see Sir R. Burton's Goa and the Blue Mountains,p. 213.



A BEA UTIFUL GROVE. 23 3

again, at almost six a clock after noon we came to the sideof a River call'd Barenghi, which in that place runs fromW est to Eas t and is not fordable, although narrow, butrequires a boat to pass it. On the Southern bank onwhich we came were four Cottages, where we took upour station that N ight, enjoying the cool, the shadow andthe sight of a very goodly Wood which cloaths the Riversides with green ; but above all where we lodg'd, on eitherside the way, were such large and goodly Trees, suchspacious places underneath for shade and the place soopacous by the thickness of the boughs on high, thatindeed I never saw in my dayes a fairer natural Grove ;amongst other Trees there was abundance of Bambu} orvery large Indian canes, twin'd about to the top withpre ty H erbs. The journey of this day was three Cos, ora League and half. Th is River, they say, is one of those

which goes to Garsopa?- Vituld Sinay we found not here,because he was gone before.3

November the fourth. W e began in the Morning to passour Goods over the River ; but, because there was butone, and that a small, boat, it was ten hours after noonbefore we had got all of them over ; then, following ourjourney through somewhat oblique and uneven wayes

like the former, we found many trees of Myrobalanesf1 See ante, p. 220. It is not usual to find creep ing plants twining

themselves round the bamboo, as here stated, though they abound ontrees of all kinds.

2 Properly Gerusapfie. See p. 218.3 Th is state m ent seems to be an anticipation of Sherid an's cele-

brated remark in The Critic: " T h e Spanish fleet thou canst not see,because it is not yet in sight."

4 The Terminalia Belerica, of which the fruit formed a considerable

article of com me rce in former days. See Barb osa's (? M agellan's)Coast of M alabar, pp. 80, 222, 223. Th e M ah ratt a n am e is Hirda.It is also called Arjuna. It is used for calico-p rinting, but in thepresen t day chiefly for tan nin g purposes. Th e name Myrobolan,



23 4 THE MYROBALANE TREE.

such as are brought into Italy, preserved in Sugar. It

hath leaves much like that plant which produces GumArabick,1 by me formerly desc rib'd2; different onely in this,tha t in tha t of Gum Arabick the branch, consisting of manyleaves, is much less, round or oval, and seems one leafmade up of many long and narrow ones : bu t in thisMyrobalane Tree the b ranch is sufficiently long, and thesmall leaves composing it in tw o rows on either side aresomewhat larger; nor is the Myrobalane Tre e prickly,like that of Gum Arabick. The fruit is round, hard, ofa yellowish green, smooth, shining, of little pulp, with agreat stone, almost round and furrow'd with six circularlines. Being raw it ha th an acid and as tringent, but, inmy judgm ent, no pleasant ta ste ; but when preserv'dbecomes good. The y say it is refrigerative and purgesCholer.

IX.— Having rested many times upon the way and inall travell'd two Leagues, we ended this day's journeyin the onely considerable and populous Town we hadhitherto met, which is call'd Ahineli? W e lodg'd in thePorches of a Temple of Idols, low after their manner,with very large eaves supported by great Po s ts ; thePavement rais'd high and dung'd,4 but not lately ; the

walls white, sprinkled in the corners and ends with asort of rosy pigm ent, ill co lou r'd; for so is their custom

derived from two Greek words signifying "unguent" and "fruit" or" nut", comprehends several species of Terminalia, and one oiPhyllan-thus. As to the medicinal and other properties of the fruit, see SirH. Yule's Hobson-Jobson. An allusion to the fruit occurs in Beck-ford's Vathek, " She is sweeter to me than the myrabolan comfit."

1

Gum-arabic is the product of Acacia Niloiica and Acacia Seyalthe Myrobolan being a Combretum.2 In one of the letters not included in this translation.3 This town seems to be the modern Honelli, It is not at present

a town of any importance.4 See ante, pp. 87 and 230.



WOODEN IDOLS. 23 5

always in their Religious Structures.1 The Idol was call'dVirena Dcitrit? the latter of which words signifies God,or rather Lord, being attributed also to Men of quality;he stood at the upper end in a dark place with Candlesbefore him ; of what figure he was I could not see well,by reason of the darkness, but they told me 'twas a Man.In the body of the Temple were many other woodenStatues of less Idols, plac'd about in several places, as'twere for ornament; some of which were figures of theirGods, others not of Gods, but for ornament, of severalshapes.

Many of these figures represented dishonest actions.One was of a W oman. Another was of a Man anda Woman kissing, the Man holding his Hands on theWoman's Breasts, and sundry such representations fitindeed for such a Temple.3 But these were not figures of

Gods. Of Gods there was a Brahma with five Heads4

andthree Arm s on a side, sitting astride a Peacock, which intheir Language they call Nau Brahma? that is the Peacock

1 Sir J. Lubbock (Origin of Civilization, p. 366) think s that this redpig ment is intended to rep rese nt the blood of sacrifices offered to thedeities. Th e use of such red paint is common a mo ng idolatrousnatio ns, and in some par ts of India no flowers can be presen ted toidols except those of a red colour. (See D ubois, Ma-tirs des penplesde rinde, vol. ii, p. 441.)

2 A nam e applied to the Lin gam , or emblem of Siva. Fo r thelegend regarding the origin of this emblem, see Dubois, Masters despeuples de I'Inde, vol. ii, p. 417 et seq.

3 Two passages in the original are omitted,4 It is unusual for this deity to be represented with five heads. It

is true tha t he is sa id to h ave been born with five heads, bu t he lostone of them in a comb at with Siva. (See Dubo is, Mwurs des penples

de PInde, vol. ii, p. 396.)5 Literally , " the Boat of Brahm a," signifying the vehicle by whichBra hm a was supposed to be conveyed in the ocean of space. A swan,or goose, som etimes takes the place of the peacock. (See Du bois,vol. ii, p. 396.)



2 3 6 MAJESTICAL DIADEMS.

of Brahma; another God was call'd Naraina} with four

Arm s on a side : another with an Elephant's Head andtwo Hands to an Arm, whom they call Ganesii,2 and othersBacra-tundo? tha t is Round-mouth; for one and the sameGod ha th divers names. Another, call'd Fuena* had theshape of a Man, holding a naked Sword in his right Handand a Buckler in his left. Another had a Man under hisFeet,5 upon whose Head he trampled; and so many othersof various sorts.

I observ'd that all these Idols had the same cover of theHead, high, with many peaks, all ending in one longpeak, a strange and majestical Diadem not used nowin India; it might have been of wreath 'd Linnen, or Gold,or other solid matter; wherefore I imagine that it is a veryancient covering, at this day dis-us'd ; unless hap ly it besome ensign of Divinity, which I ra ther think, because I

remember to have seen at Rome almost the same Diademsupon the Heads of some Êgyptian Sta tues , (and, if Iforget not, they were called Tutu/i,6 and the Idols Tutulati),as am ongst us the Diadem s of the Saints, or, as somemake it, three Crowns one upon another, like the Regno,7

or Pontifical Crown, of our Pope.

1 A name of Siva, properly Narayana. He has various other names.2 See ante, p. 73, note.

3 Literally, " crooked trunk".4 The name of some local deity.6 Probably Siva as " the Destroyer". Fo r the attributes of this

deity, see Dubois' Mceurs des peuples de Vlnde, vol. ii, p. 416.6 The word " Tutulus" was a name given to the pile of hair worn on

the head by Rom an women. (See Lucian, ii, 358, and Juvenal, vi,503.) Th e hea ddre ss of the Eg yptian Isis is ma de up of the serpen t

Th erm uth es. Dubo is attributes the conical shape of the hea dd ressseen on Indian sacred statues to a " particular ta ste" of the Ind ian sfor a pyra mid al sha pe. (See his Mceurs des peuples de PInde, vol. ii,p. 348.)

7 T he Pontifical crown is gene rally called " Tia ra", cons isting ofthree crowns, adde d to successively by three Popes (John X II I, Bcni-



INTERIOR OF A TEMPLE. 237

In the middle of the Temple, between the chief entranceand the inner shrine, was another darker inclosure, separ-ated from the chief entrance, but not to the same ex ten t aswas the inner shrine, that is to say about half-way betweenthe two, wherein stood, fastned in the ground, certainslender staves, with others across them in two rows,making a little Stockade, or Palisade, of a long form ; andthese were to hang Lam ps and Tapers upon, at moresolemn dayes and hours. A Barber whom we had withus, an Indian-Gentile but a Native of the Country of Adil-Scidh, who was named Dengl, and understood somethingof the Portugal'-Tongue, could not well tell me the names ofthose figures and Idols of the Temple when I ask'd him ;because, he said, they were not things of his Country,where they had other things and Gods, and that everyCountry had particular ones of their own.

Within the circuit of this Temple, but on one side of theCourt as you go in, were three other little cells, sepa ratefrom the body of the great Temple, two of which wereem pty, perhaps not yet well prepared, but in the otherwas an Idol of an Ox, which our Barber knew, andsaid was also of his Country and that they call it Basuand1;it was half lying, or rather sitting, upon the floor, with theHead erec t; like which Ox, or Basuand, stood another inthe upper par t of the Tem ple, before the Tribunal of theIdol Virend, as if it stood there for his guard.

face VII I, and Benedict XII) , indicative of the Trinity. The word" Regno" is applied to it as indicating its signification as the badge ofcivil authority, the spiritual authority of the Pope being represented bythe keys. The resemblance between the costumes seen in Indiaand those of Egyptian statues is mentioned also by Mr. Elphinstone{History of India, p. 184).

1 More correctly Basav-anna. The figure of a bull (having nodoubt a symbolical meaning) is frequently represented with that ofSiva. So also the Egyptian god Mitthas was represented as seatedon a bull.



238 A RELIGIOUS PROCESSION.

In the Evening the Ministers of the Temple ring a kind

of Bell, or Shell,1

which was within the Temple, striking itwith a staff and it made a tolerab le sound , as if it hadbeen a good B el l: at which sound, some from withoutassembling together, they begin to sound within theTem ple very loudly two Drum s, and two Pipes, or Flutes, ofmetal; after which, many Tapers being lighted, particu-larly at the Stockade above-mentioned, and a little quiltbeing put in order, with a Canopy of rich stuff above itwhich is alwayes ready in the Temple for carrying theIdol, they put the principal Idol Virend on it, (not tha t oneof ordinary wood in the middle of the Temple, but the otherat the upper end, which was of the same bigness, abouttwo spans round the body ) and ornaments about it, bu t allpainted with various colours, gilded, and deck'd with whiteFlowers. Then one of the Ministers march'd first, sound-

ing a Bell continually as he went, and after him others,and at length two with lighted Tapers, after which fol-low'd the Idol in his Canopy, with a Minister before him,carrying a Vessel of Perfumes, which he bu rn t; and thusthey carry 'd him in Procession : first into the Court with-out the Temple, going out of it on the left Hand, as youenter, which to them as they came out was the right, andreturning by the other opposite. After which, going outof the Gate of the Court into the street, they went in thesame manner in Procession, (still sounding their Bells) Iknow not whither, but 'tis likely they went to some otherTemple to perform some kind of cerem ony ; for in theTown there was more than one. Being at length return 'd,and the Procession re-entering the Court w ith a greattrain of Men and W omen of the Tow n, they went thriceabout the inside of the Court, as they had done once, before

1 As to the general use of bells in temples, see Sir J. Lubbock'sOrigin of Civilisation, p. 232 ; and Du bois' Mceurs des peuples deVInde, quoted by Sir J. Lubbock.



IDOL-WORSHIP. 239

they went out. But in these three Circumgyrations they

observ'd this Order, that the first time they walked as theyhad done in the street; the second more leisurely, andthose that sounded the Flutes left off and sounded anotherkind of shriller, sweeter, Pipe ; the third time they walk'dmore slowly than before, and, leaving off the second Pipes,sounded others of a far lower note . Which being done,those that carry'd and accompany'd the Canopy of theIdol stood still in the entrance of the Temple, right againstthe Upper End, and one of the Priests, or Ministers, stand-ing at the Upper End, directly opposite to the Idol, (whowas held stand ing on his Fee t by help of one of theMinister's Hands, who for tha t purpose went alwayes onone side near him;) began to salute the Idol a far off witha dim Taper in his Hand, making a great circle1 with thesame from on high downwards, and from below upwards,

direc tly over against the Idol, which he repeated severaltimes ; and in the end of the circles, which were alwayesterminated in the lower part, he describ'd a strait linefrom one side to the opposite, and tha t where the circlebegan ; nor did he seem to me always to begin the circleson the same part, but sometimes on the right and some-times on the left, with what Order I know not.

Th is being done within, the same Priest came to theentrance where the Idol stood, passing directly through themidst of the Palisade of Lights, (through which, I believethat, for others and at another time it is not lawful to pass;because, when any one entered to perform other Servicesother than these Ceremonies, I saw him always go withoutthe Palisade by the side) coming along, I say, sounding aBell, and being follow'd by a Boy who carry'd a Basin of

1 This and the other motions of the priest, subsequently d escribed,app ear to hav e a distinct connection with a form of worship of thesun and other heavenly bodies.



24O DISTRIBUTION OF FOOD.

water with Santalus, or Sanders* after him, (the same where-with, I conceive, they are wont to paint their fore-heads)and also with Drum s and Flute s sounding all the wh ile;he went in this manner three times round the Idol, be-ginning his circuits from the left side. W hen he had thusdone, standing on the same side of the Idol where hebegan, and laying aside his Bell, he offer'd the Basin ofwater to the Idol, and dipping one Finger in it, lay'd thesame upon the Idol's Forehead, or thereabouts ; and, ifI was not mistaken, taking a little in his Hand, he alsody'd himself and the other Minister, who upheld the Idol,on the Fore-head therewith, after which he went to powrethe remainder of the water in the Basin upon the groundwithout the Temple, but within the inclosure, or Court.Then he took a wax-Candle,2 and therewith describ'd,within the Palanchino, or Carriage, before the Idol many

circles with lines at the end ; and, pu tting out the Candle,took the Idol out of the Palanchino, and carrying itthrough the rail'd Stockade, in the middle of the Torches,plac'd it on its Tribunal at the Upper End where it usuallystands.

In the mean time one of the Ministers distributed toall the by-standers a little quantity of certain Fitches,3

mingled with small slices of Indian Nut, which, I conceive,had been offer'd to the Idol ; and they took and ate thesame with signes of Devotion and Reverence . He offer'dsome likewise to our people, and there wanted not such astook them ; the D rum s and Fifes sounding in the meantime ; which at length ceasing, and the Candles being putout, the Ceremonies ended and the people return 'd totheir Houses.

1 See ante, p. 99, note 2.2 W ax candles are certainly not comm on in India even in the

present day, among natives, and were probably only used in temples.3 Or "vetches"; some kind of chick-pea, probably Cicer Arietinum.



PLAN OF AN INDIAN TEMPLE . 2 4 1

Such Men as were not Officers of the Temple assistedat the Ceremonies at the first entrance, where we alsostood ; but the Women stood more within the body ofthe Temple, where the rows of lights were. For the betterunderstanding of all which description I shall here de-lineate the Ground-plan of the Temple with its inclosureand Porches, as well as I could do it by the Eye withoutmeasuring it.

T H E G R O U N D - P L A N O F AN IN D I A N T E M P L E .

18

3

6

n 4

1Z m m

12

n D • D

D D

D

D D D

7

4D • D

77

77

77

8

D D D7

4D • •

1 1 1



242 A MESSAGE FROM THE KING.

i. The Street. 2. T he Stairs of the En trance. 3. An high Wall ofEarth before the Outer Porch. 4. The Outward Porch with an highEarthen Floor. 5. Two small Idols in two Niches on the out side of theends of the Porch. 6. The Gate, level with the Earthen Wall No. 3.7. The Inner Porch with an Earthen Floor higher than that of theGate, the Wall, and the Outer Porch. 8. A Void Space between thePorch and the Temple. 9. Part of the First Entrance of the Temple,lower than the plane of the Gate and the said Void Space. 10. Part ofthe same, but one Step higher. 11. The said Step, dividing the firstEntrance in the middle. 12. The body of the Temple, situate betweenthe first Entrance and the Penetrale, or Chancel, the dots denoting the

rows of Torches. 13. A little door to go out at. 14. The Penetrale, orChancel, where the Oval denotes the Statue of Boue, or Basava,1 uponthe ground. 15. The Inmost Part of the Chancel, where the IdolVirend* stands. 16. A high Earthen Wall encompassing the Temple.17. Three little Cells; in the first of which the Oval represents theStatue of Boue, or Basava. 18. An open square-Court, or inclosure,surrounding the Temple which stands in the middle of it. 19. The Wallsthereof. 20. The Houses of such Men and Women as keep the Temple.

X.—The same Evening was brought to our Ambassador

a Letter from Vituld Smay, 3 who writ that, arriving at the

Court on Fry day before, he had spoken with his King,

who, being well pleas'd with the Ambassador's coming,

had prepar'd the same house for him wherein the King

of Belighi* was wont to lodge when he was at his Cou rt ;

and that he would make him a very honorable Reception ;

that therefore as soon as we arriv'd at the Town Ahinala?

(where we now were), the Ambassador should send himnotice; which was accordingly done by dispatching the Mes-

senger presently back again ; and we waited for his return.

November the fifth. At day-break the Ministers of the

Temple where we lodged sounded Pipes and Drums for

a good while in the Temple, without other Ceremony.

The like they did again about Noon and at Evening ;

but at night they made the same Procession with the Idol,and the same Ceremonies, which are above describ'd.

1 See ante, p. 237, note 1. 2 See p. 235, note 2. 3 See p. 191.4 Or Bilgi, a small town near Honiwar.'•> Previously (p. 234) called Ahinili.



AN UNDESERVED TITL E. 24 3

This day came to the Town a Captain from the Kingwith many attendants, and, having visited the Ambassador,took divers of those Idols which stood in the firstEntrance, and carry'd them away with him to be newmade, because some were old and broken.

Late in the night came another Letter from VitulaStnay, which signifi'd to us that we should move towardsa Town very near the Court, call'd Badrapoor, where somepersons from the King were to meet us and accompany usto the court; although the Ambassador had writ to himbefore that he car'd not for being accompany'd at hisEntrance, but onely when he should go to see the King.

I style him King because the Portugals themselves andthe Indians do so ; but, in truth, Venk-tapa Naieka, (notonely because his Predecessors were a few years agoVassals and simple Naiekas} that is feudatory Princes, or

rather Provincial Gouvernours, under the King ofVidianagher1; and at this day he himself reigns absolutely

by Usurpation, and is in effect no other then a Rebel; (andGod know how long his House will abide in greatness); butalso much more by reason of the smallness of his territory,though it be great, in respect of other Indian Gentile-Princes) deserves not the Appellation of K ing ; and th e

less because he pays Tribute to Idal-Sciah? who althougha g rea ter Prince, is but small for a King and payesTribute to the Moghol ̂ In short, Venk-tapa Naieka,although now absolute, should, in my opinion, be call'd aRoyolet rather than a King : but the Portugals, to magnifietheir affaires in India, or else to honor the persons thatrule there (which is not displeasing in Spain, and at theCourt of the Catholick King who is of the same humor),give the title of King to all these petty Indian Princes,

1 See p. 168, note 2. 2 See ante, p. 109, note 1.3 I.e., Adil Sha h. See ante, p. 143, note 5. 4 See p. 48, note 2.

R 2



244 ARRIVAL AT IKK ER I.

many of whom have smaller Dominions than a smallfeudatory Marquis in our Countries ; and (which is worse)that of Emperor to some, as to him of Japan, of Êthiopiaand of Calicut} who is very inconsiderable ; the quondam-Prince of Vidianagher, or Bisnagar (as they speak), havingin a strange and unusual manner multiply'd the numberof Emperors beyond what the fabulous books of KnightsErrant have done : albeit, in truth, there never was foundbut one Emperor in the world, the Roman Ccssar, whoat this day retains rather the name than the substancein Germany.

XI.—-November the sixth. Tw o hours before noon wewent from Aliinala, and, having travell'd through aCountry like the former, but plain, about noon we cameto the Town Badrapoor; where, according as Vituld Sinayhad writ us, we thought to lodge that night, and accord-ingly had lay'd down our baggage and withdrawn to aplace of re st ; but after being two hours the re we foundour selves surrounded by abundance of people (for 'tis alarge Town, and they go almost all arm'd) who out ofcuriosity came to see us ; whereupon the Am bassador,either having receiv'd an Answer from Vituld, Sinay, ornot caring for a pompous entrance, rais'd us all again ;

and after a small journey further we arriv'd at Ikkeri?which is the Royal City of Venk-tapa Naieka, where heholds his Court ; having travell'd since morning fromAliinala to Ikkeri but two Leagues.

The City is seated in a goodly Plain, and as we enter'dwe pass'd through three Gates, with small Forts andDitches, and consequently three Inclosures ; the two first

of which were not Walls, but made of very high IndianCanes,4 very thick and close planted, instead of a Wall,

1 See p. 60, note 3. 2 See ante, p. 109, note 1. 3 See mite, p. 216.4 Bamboo fences are a common mode of fortification in India, and

are very effective against any attack except that of artillery.



DESCRIPTION OF IKKERI. 245

and are strong against Foot and Horse in any case, hardto cut and not in danger of fire; besides tha t the Herbswhich creep upon them, together with their own leaves,make a fair and grea t verdure and much shadow. Th eother Inclosure is a Wall, but weak and inconsiderable.But having passed these three we pass'd all. Some saythere are others within, belonging to the Citadel, or Fort,where the Palace is ; for Ikkeri is of good largeness, butthe Houses stand thinly and are ill built, especially with-out the third Inclosure ; and most of the situation is takenup by great and long streets, some of them shadow'd withhigh and very goodly Trees growing in Lakes of Water,of which there are many large ones, besides Fields set fullof Trees, like Groves, so that it seems to consist of aCity, Lakes, Fields and W oods mingled together, andmakes a very delightful sight.

We were lodg'd in the House, as they said, wherein theKing of BelighV- lodg'd, (I know not whether he was Kins-man, Friend, or Vassal, to Venk-tapa Naieka, but probablyone of the above-mention'd Royolets) and to go to thisHouse we went out of the third Inclosure, passing throughthe inmost part of the City by another Gate oppositeto tha t by which we enter'd. The House indeed was suchas in our Countries an ordinary Artisan would scarce havedwelt in, having very few and those small and dark Rooms,which scarce afforded light enough to read a letter ; theybuild them so dark as a remedy for the great heat ofSumm er. However this must needs have been one ofthe best, since it was assign'd to the said King first andnow to our Ambassador; although as we pass'd throughthe midst of the City I observ'd some that made a muchbetter show.

XII.—At night they brought the Ambassador a coupleof bed-steads to sleep upon and some stools for our use,

1 See ante, p. 242.



24 6 PRESENTS FROM THE KING.

some of them made of Canes interwoven, instead of cover-

ings of Leather, or Cloth, being much us'd in Goa andother places of India; but some others were covcr'dwith Leather.

November \.\\c seventh. Vihda Sinaf came in the morningto visit our Ambassador, and in his King's name broughthim a Present of Sugar-Canes, Fruits, Sugar and otherthings to eat, but not any Animal ; and, if I was not mis-inform'd (for I was not present), he excus'd his King's notsending him Sheep, or other Animals, to eat, by sayingthat he was of a Lingavant'} or Noble, Race, who neithereat nor kill any Creatures ; as if he should have sinn'd anddefil'd himself by sending any to the Ambassador whowould have eaten them. W ith this Present he sent a pieceof Tapestry , not as a Gift, but onely for the Ambassadorto make use of in his House, and it was us'd in such sortthat at length it had a hole in it : the Ambassador, as notprizing it, having given it to his Interp rete r to sleep upon ;as, indeed, he seem'd not very well pleas'd with it, or hisother Donatives; for, speaking of the Reception which Venk-tapa Naieka made him, he would often say (according tothe natural and general custom of his Nation) "Let himdo me less honour, and give me something more, and it

will be better." However, I believe Venk tapa Naieka, whois not liberal, will abound more in Courtesie to the Ambas-sador than in Gifts.

/ 'itula Sinay said that the next day the Ambassadorshould be call'd to A udience three hours after noon ;wherefore Himself and all his Attendants continu'd un-dress'd till dinner-time . I, knowing the custom of Courts,

and that Princes will not wait but be waited for, and thatthe hours of Audience depend upon their pleasure, notupon his who is to have it, dress'd my self in the morning

1 See ante, p. 191. • See ante, p. 208, note.



A SCENE OF CONFUSION. 24 7

leisurely, that I might not afterwards confound my selfwith haste ; and though in such solemnities others cloth'dthemselves in colours and with ornaments of Gold, yet Iput on onely plain black Silk as mourning for my Wife.

Before we had din'd, and whilst we were at Table, theycame to call us in haste to Audience, saying that VitulaSinay and other great Persons were come to conduct usto the King . The Ambassador, finding himself unreadyand surprised, was forc'd to desire them not to come yet,making an excuse that we were still at dinner; and, theTable being taken away, he and all the rest retir'd to dressthemselves in great confusion ; and greater there was ingetting the Horses saddled, preparing the Presents whichwere to be carry'd, and providing other necessary thingsin haste, for nothing was ready ; but the Ambassador andall his Servan ts were in a grea t hurry and confusion,

calling for this and the other thing, which seem'd to menot to have too much of the Courtier. Th e persons whocame to fetch us stay'd a good while without, but at lengthwere brought into the Porch of the House, that is into thefirst Entrance within the Court, where Visits are receiv'd,without seeing the Ambassador, or any of his Attendants,who were all employ'd in the above-said confusion, at agood part of which these persons were present.

XIII.—At length the Ambassador, being dress'd, cameforth with the rest and receiv'd the Visit of Vitula. Sinay,and another great Person sent by the King to accompanyhim; he was a Moor by Sect, but of Indian Race , veryblack, and Captain General in these parts of Banghel, fromwhich charge he was lately return'd, and his name wasMuse Bat} W ith these came also a Son of his, a Youth ofthe same colour, but of a handsome Face, and cloth'doddly after the Indian Fashion, that is naked from the

1 See ante, p. 225, note 4,



2 4 8 THE PRIME MINISTER AN D HIS SUITE.

girdle upwards, having onely a very thin and variously

painted cloth1

cast across one shoulder, and another of thesame sort girt about him, and hanging down loose; he hada little Bonnet upon his Head, like those of our Galley-slaves, but wrought with divers colours; his Hands, Arms,Neck and Nose, were adorn'd with ma ny ornaments ofGold, and he had a guilt Ponyard at his girdle, which shew'dvery well. His Fa ther was cloth'd all in white, after themanner of India, to wit of such as wear Clothes and gonot naked from the W as te upward ; upon his white vestmenthe had a shorter sur-coat of. Velvet, guarded2 with Gold atthe bottom, loose and open before, which is the customonely in solemnities. H e had no Sword, bu t onely aPonyard on the right side, the hilt and chape3 gilded and,as I believe, of Silver; upon his Head he had a little Capof the sam e form, made of Cloth of Gold ; for in these

Countries 'tis the fashion for Men to cover their Headseither with such Caps, or with white Turbants,* little andalmost square.

Vituld Sinay and some other pe rsonages, who came withthem to accompany the Ambassador, were all cloth'd withwhite garments of very fine Silk and other rich Silken sur-coats upon the same, to honor the solemnity; and upon

these they had such colour'd clothes as in Persia they callScial? and use for girdles, but the Indians wear them across

1 See ante, p. 45, note 1.2 I.e., ornamented. See Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice, Ac t ii.

" Give him a livery,More guarded than his fellows."

3 In th e Italian Guardia e puntale, literally "hilt and point".

" Chape" is an old word used for the metal tip to a scabbard, and alsofor the cross-bar below the hilt.

4 An old English form of our word "tu rb an ", derived from theTurkish Tulbend or Dulbend, a " a turn-b and ", from which the word" tulip" is also derived.

6 Or Shdl (Persian), our word " shawl".



HORSES AND SADDLES. 2 4 9

the shoulders, cover'd with a piece of very fine white Silk,1

so that the colour underneath appears; or else wear whiteSilk alone.

As soon as we came out of doors Muse Bai presentedto the Ambassador one of the colour'd Skarfs2 inclos'd inwhite Silk to wear about his Neck ; and the Ambassadorgave him a piece of, I know not what, Cloth, and in themean time a publick Danc ing-Woman, whom they hadhir'd, danc'd in the presence of us all. Then we all tookHorse, the A mbassador riding upon a good Horse of hisown which he had brought from Goa, with a saddle em-broider'd and adorn'd with Silver Fringe; and anotherHorse with trappings being led before him, both which hehad brought from home, with intention, perhaps, to sellthem here at his departure ; for Horses here yield a goodprice,3 and he had been formerly at Ikkerl purposely to

sell Horses, and so became known to Venk-tapa Naieka.There was also another good led-Horse , which the Vice-Roy sent as a Present to Venk-tapd Naieka; that whichthey had given to Vituld Sinay he had carry'd to hisHouse and it appear'd not here. All the rest of us rodeupon Horses of the place, which are of very small size,and were sent to us for that purpose, accoutr'd after theirmanner, with saddles pre tty enough to look upon, but tome very inconvenient; for they have bows and cruppers4

very high, and are all of hard wood, without any stuffing,but with sharp wreath'd edges,6 cover'd with black or redCloth, lay'd with bands of Gold, or yellow, or other colour;

1 In the original Bombacino, which probably meant a mixed materialof silk and worsted.

- In the original panni. Th e word " scarf is derived from a Germanword m ean ing " a pocke t", which was worn suspended from the neck.

3 See ante, p. 194, note 5.1 Or, more correctly, " cantles."5 In the original pimte agnzze, words which convey a vivid idea of

our traveller's sufferings.



2 5 0 T H E AMBASSADOR'S PROCESSION.

in the cruppers are many carv'd ornam ents almost o.

th is figure ( **• \ besides certain extravaganttassels hanging down to the s tirr up s; and, were they notso hard, they would be neither unhandsome nor unsafe toride upon.

XIV.— The Pomp1 proceeded in this manner: manyHorsemen went formost, who were follow'd by divers Foot,arm'd with Pikes and other weapons, some of thembrandishing the same as they went along; then march'dcertain Musketiers with Drums, Trumpets, Pipes andCornets sounding; these cloth'd all in one colour after thePortugal manner, but with coarse stuff of small value; andamongst them rode a servant of the Ambassador's, betterclad after their fashion, as Captain of the Guard. Thenfollow'd the Ambassador in the middle, between VitulaSinav and Muse Bai; and after him we of his retinue,to wit the Chaplain, Sig: Consalvo Caravaglio, & Sig:Francesco Montcyro, who liv'd at Barcdbr? and whom wefound at Ikkerl about some affairs of his own ; but becausehe wanted a Horse he appear'd no t in the Cavalcade,but went on foot to the gate of the King. After us camethe other Horse-m en; but, in sum, there were but fewpeople, a small shew and little gallantry : demonstrative

signes of the smallness of this Court and Prince.In this manner we rode to the Palace, which stands in a

Fort, or Citadel, of good largeness, incompass'd with a greatDitch and certain ill built bastions. At the entrance wefound two very long, but narrow, Bulwarks. W ithin the

1 Po m p is he re used in its strictly classical sense of " proce ssion".So Milton, Par. Lost, Bk. vm.

"On her, as queen,A pomp of winning graces waited still."

- A town on the coast, in lat. 13° X. W rit ten as Bracalo r, B razzalor,Bracelor, Basarur, a nd Abu saror ( ) by other writers. It is a small cityon a gulf abo und ing in coco-trees. (See Y ule's Cathay,vo\. ii, p. 451.)



ARRIVAL AT TH E PALACE. 25 1

Citadel are many Houses, and I believe there are shops alsoin several streets; for we pass'd through two Gates, at bothof which there stood Guards, and all the distance betweenthem was an inhabited street. W e went through these twoGates on Horse-back, which, I believe, was a priviledge,for few did so besides our selves, namely such onely asentred where the King w as; the rest either remaining onHorse-back at the first Gate, or alighting at the Entranceof the second. A third Gate also we enter'd, but on Foot,and came into a kind of Court, about which were s ittingin Porches many prime Courtiers and other persons ofquality. Th en we came to a fourth Gate, guarded withSouldiers, into which onely we Franchi, or Christians, andsome few others of the Country, were suffer'd to en ter;and we presently found the King, who was seated in a kindof Porch on the opposite side of a small Court, upon a

Pavement somewhat rais'd from the Earth, cover'd with aCanopy like a square Tent, but made of boards, and gilded.The Floor was cover'd with a piece of Tapistry somethingold, and the King sat, after the manner of the East, upon alittle Quilt on the out-side of the Tent, leaning upon oneof the pillars which up-held it on the right hand, havingat his back two great Cushions of fine white Silk.1 Beforehim lay his Sword, adorn'd with Silver, and a little on oneside, almost in the middle of the Tent, was a small, eight-corner'd, Stand, painted and gilded, either to write upon,or else to hold some thin g or o ther of his. On the righthand and behind the King, stood divers Courtiers, one ofwhom continually wav'd a piece of fine white linnen,2 asif to drive away the flies from the K ing. Besides the K ingthere was but one person sitting, and he the principal

1 In the original Bombacini.2 Th e word translate d as "linn en", he re and in other passages,

should prob ably be cotton. On this point see Heeren 's HistoricalResearches, vol. i, p. 37.



2 5 2 INTERVIEW WITH THE KING.

Favourite of the Court, call'd Putapaia} and he sat at agood distance from him, on the right hand, near the wall.

XV.—As soon as we saw the King afar off the Ambas-sador and we pull'd off our H ats and sa luted him afterour manner; he seem'd not to stir at all; but when weapproach'd nearer the Am bassador was made to sit downwithin the Te nt, on the left side also. Vituld Sinay ap-proach'd to a Pillar opposite to that on which the K inglean'd and there serv'd as Interpreter, sometimes speakingwith the King and sometimes with the Ambassador.Musi Bai stood also on our side, but dis tan t from the King,and near one of the Pillars of the Porch. The K ing's firstwords were concerning the Heal th of the K ing of Spainand the Vice-Roy; and then the Ambassador subjoyn'dthe causes of his coming, nam ely to visit him and con-tinue the Amity which his Highness held with that State

of the Portugals, (who use that style of " Highness" to theseIndian Kings, as they did also to their K ing of Portugalwhen they had one, whence this custom first arose, and isstill continu'd ; although now when they name their Kingof Spain, so much a greater Lord than the King of Portugal,they use not the term Highness, but Majesty, after themanner of Europe). Th e Am bassador added that, in tokenof this Amity, the Vice-Roy sent him that Present, not asany great matter, but as a small acknowledgm ent; tha t theirKing had sent him a considerable Present from Spam,which his Highness knew was lost at Sea ; that yet bythe Ships which were coming this year he should receiveanother, as he might see in the Vice-Roy's Letter which hepresented to him. And hereupon the Am bassador, arisingfrom his Seat, went to present the same to him, almostkneeling upon one knee ; and he, without moving a whit,took it and gave it to Vituld Sinay, who gave it to another,

1 " Putapaia" should be " Pratapara", or Chief Lord



PRESEN TATION OF GIFTS. 25 3

probably the principal Secretary, without reading, or open-ing, it. Th e Am bassador had brought a Lette r to him,likewise written in the King of Spain s Name, but did notpresent it now; because the Portugals say that the firsttime of going to Audience they are onely to make a Visit,and not to trea t of Business. Then they drew forth thePre sen t before the King, which was some pieces of cloth,within one of those wooden gilt boxes which are us'd inIndia; a Lance of the Moorish shape, to wit long andsmooth like a Pike, the point of Iron gilt and the footembellish'd with Silver, a gallant Ta rget, and the Horseabove-mention'd, cover'd with a silken Horse-cloth; whichHorse was brought into the Court where the King sate.

After he had receiv'd and view'd the Present and takenthe Iron of the Lance in his hand, which the Ambassadorsaid was of Portugal, they caus'd the rest of us to sit down

near the outer wall of the Porch on the left side, upon arough Carpet, strip'd with white and blew,1 (of that sortwhich the Turks and Persians call Kielint) spread upon thepavem ent of the Porch. Th e Ambassador, although hesate, yet never put on his Hat before the K ing, (for so thePortugal Nobles are wont to do before the Vice-Roy,namely to sit, but not to be cover'd) nor did the King

speak to him to cover himself, but let him continue un-cover'd; wherein, to my thinking, he com mitted an error;for, going as he did in the name of the State, whichamongst them is as much as to go in the King of Spain'sName, why should he not be cover'd before so small aPrince ? And the error seem'd the greater because he wasthe first that went Ambassador to Venk-tapd Naieka in thename of the State, and consequently hath made an ill-

1 In the original torchino, allied to our word " turquoise" , a colourderived from the precious stone of that nam e, as it was formerlysupposed to come from Turkey.



2 5 4 OBSEQUIOUSNESS OF TH E AMBASSADOR.

precedent to such as shall come after him ; and in intro-ducing such prejudicial customs a publick Minister shouldhave his eyes well open : but the truth is, the Portugals ofIndia understand little, are little Courtiers and less Politi-cians, how exquisite soever they ma)- be accounted here,as this Sig: Gio: Ferncuidez is esteem'd one of the mostaccomplish'd, and, I believe, not undeservedly.

At night I could not forbear to advertise some of hisCountry-men hereof in a handsome way, it not seeming-fit for me, a stranger and the younger man, to offer togive him a Lesson.1 However he never put on his Hat,and Civility oblig'd us to the same forbearance ; but indeed,it was too much obsequiousness for such a Prince; as alsofor the Ambassador to tell him of the other times that hehad been privately at that Court and kiss'd his Highnesse'sFeet; with other like words little becoming an Ambassador.

Nevertheless he spoke them, professing himself m uch theservant of Venk-tapd Naieka, out of hope tha t he, as VituldSinay had promis'd him at Goa, would write to the King ofSpain in his favor, by which means he should have someremuneration. Indeed the Portuga/s have nothing else intheir Heads but Interest, and therefore their G overnmentgoes as it does.

XVI.—As we sate down, (being four of us that did so,besides the Ambassador, to wit the Chaplain, C aravaglio,Monteyro, and my self) I handsomely took the last place ;because, knowing the nature of the Portugals, I would nothave them think that I, a stranger, went about to takeplace and preeminence of them in their solem nities ; andthey, conformably to their own humor, not onely us'd no

1 H ere the following sentence in the original is omitted from thetranslatio n : " but only to othe rs of his Com pany, and that withcivility, who would not fail, as compatriots and friends, to make knownto him their sentiments."



CONVERSATION W ITH TH E KING. 25 5

Courtesie to me, as well-bred Italians would have done, by

saying to me, Amice, ascende superiiis; but I saw they weregreatly pleas'd with my putting my self in the last placeCaravaglio tak ing the first, the Chaplain the second, andMonteyro the third . I, little caring for this, or for shewingand making my self known in the Court of Venk-tapaNaieka, laugh'd within my self at their manners, and withobservation of the scene satisfied my Curiosity, whichalone had brought me into these parts.

The King's discourse to the Ambassador extendedto divers things, and, as he was speaking, he frequentlychaw'd leaves of Betle1 which a Courtier reach'd to himnow and then, and, when he was minded to put out a lumpof the masticated leaves, another held a kind of great Cupto his Mouth for him to spit into. The King ask'd con-cerning the slowness of the Ships this year, as a thing which

displeased him, in regard of the Money they were to bringhim for Pepper. He inquir'd of several things in Indiaand desir'd to know some kind of News. The Am bassadortold him all the News we had at Onbr, which was un-certain, being onely the Relations of some vulgar persons,and therefore, in my judgem ent, too imm aturely utter'd ;affirming for certain the coming of the Fleet with a great

Army, the Alliance between Spain and England, thepassage of the Prince of England into Spain? and more-over (Good God ) the reduction of all England to theCatholick Fa ith by the publick comm and of the K ing, withother such levities usual to the Portugals, who are veryignorant of the affairs of the world and of State.

1 See p. 36, no te 1.2 This, of course, refers to the journey of Prince Charles (under the

name of Mr. Smith) and the Duke of Buckingham into Spain, for thepurpo se of arran ging a ma rriage with the Infanta. Some amusingdetails of this visit will be found in an article on "Velasquez thePainter", in the Nineteenth Century of January 1891.



25 6 CONVERSATION CO NTIN UED .

The King further spoke long concerning things trans-

acted with him in the War of Banghel,1

particularly of thePeace tha t concluded it ; for which, it probably being dis-advantageous to the Portugals, he said he heard thatmany blam'd him, the Ambassador, who negotiated it withhis Ministers ; and that they not onely blam'd him for it,but said he would be punished by the King of Spain, whowas offended with it ; whereat being sorry, as his Friendhe had sent several times to Goa to inquire tidings con-cerning him. The Am bassador answer'd tha t 'twas truethere had been such accusations against him and greater,some alledging that his Highness had brib'd him ; butthat they were the words of malevolent persons, whichhe had always laugh'd at, knowing he had done his duty,and onely what the Vice-Roy had appointed him ; andthat in Spain they give credit to the informations of the

Vice-Roy, and not to the talk of others, as well appear'dby the event.

]~enk-tapa proceeded to say that that Peace was verywell made for the Portugals, and tha t much good hadfollow'd upon it ; in timating tha t they would have madeit with disadvantage if it had not been concluded in thatmanner as he concluded i t ; as if he would have said, " It

had been otherwise ill for the Portugals with manifestsignes of a mind insulting toward them , and implying tha tthe business of Banghel was no more to be treated of.Then he ask'd the Am bassador, How old he was ? Howmany Children he had ? pu tting him in mind of his beingused to come, when a very Youth, to Ikkeri with his Fatherto bring Horses, and shewing himself very friendly to him.Nor did the Ambassador lose the occasion of desiring himthat he would favor him with his Letters to the King of

1 One of the petty contests c arried on by the various chiefs of thesepa rts after the fall of the K ing of Vijay anag ar. (See p. 144, no te 2.)



CONCLUSION OF TH E AUD IENCE. 25 7

Spain, pretending to hope for much upon account of them ;

a thing which I should not commend in an Ambassador,because he may thereby come to be thought by his naturalPrince too partial to, and too intimate with, the Princewith whom he treats ; and also by this means disparageshimself, as if he need to beg the mediation of foreignPrinces with his natural Lord and of such Princes toowith whom he negotiates in behalf of his own, which byno means seems well.

Then Venk-tapa Naieka inquir'd concerning the restof us, and Vitula Sinay answer'd his Questions ; tellinghim of m e tha t I was a Rom an and tha t I travell'd overso great a part of the World out of Curiosity and thatI writ down what I saw ; with o ther things of the samenature. Venk-tapa Naieka ask'd me, Whether I under-stood the Language of the Moors ? I answer'd tha t I

did, together with Turkish and Persian; but 1 mention'dnot the Arabick, because I have it not so ready as theother two to be able to make use of it before everybody.He seem'd sufficiently pleas'd in seeing me and under-standing that I was born at Rome and came thither as aTrave ller ; highly esteeming the ancient fame of Romeand of the Empire and its new Grandeur and the

Pontificate of the Christians. These and other Discourses,which I omit for brevity, lasting for some time, he caus'dto be brought to him a piece of Silk embroider'd withGold, such as the Indians wear across their shoulders,but with us may serve to cover a Table, or such like use,and, calling the Ambassador before him, whither we ac-company'd him, gave it to him and caus'd it to be putupon his shoulders ; whereupon we were dismiss'd, andso, going out to Horse again, we were reconducted homewith the same solemnity and company.

XVII.—After this, as we were walking through theCity late in the Even ing without the Am bassador we

s



25 8 A PRETTY SIGHT.

saw going along the streets several companies of younggirls, well cloth'd, after the ir manner, with some of theabove-mentioned wrought and figur'd Silk from the girdledownwards ; and from thence upward either naked,1 orelse with very pure linnen, either of one colour, or strip'dand wrought with several, besides a scarf of the same workcast over the shoulder. The ir heads were deck'd withyellow and white flowers form'd into a high and largeDiadem, with some sticking out like Sun-beams, andothers twisted together and hanging down in severalfashions, which made a pret ty sight. All of them carry'din each hand a little round painted Stick, about a spanlong, or a little more, which they struck toge ther aftera musical m easure, to the sound of Drums and otherinstruments, and one of the skilfullest of the companysung one verse of a song, at the end of which they all

reply'd seven, or eight, times in the number of their meterwith the word, Cole, Cole, Cole? which signifies I know notwhat, but , I believe, 'tis a word of joy. Singing in thismanner they went along the street, eight or ten together,being either friends, or neighbours, follow'd by many otherwomen, not dress'd in the same fashion, but who wereeither their Mothers, or Kins-wom en. I imagin'd it wasfor some extrao rdinary Festiva l, and I was willing to have

1 It is the custom of some classes of women in Sou thern India towear no covering above the waist, and the attempts made to alter thiscustom have, as Sir R. Burton says, "been met in the same spiritwhich would be displayed were the converse suggested to an Englishwoman." {Goa and the Blue ,~i fountains, p. 222.)

2 It is difficult to say positively what is the m eanin g of this word.It may be m eant for Kali, one of the nam es of the g odd ess Gauri,

in whose hono ur this festival was held (see W ilks' Southern India,vol. i, p. 22 . Th e n am e Kali is said b y S ir W. H un ter to be thenon-An'ti nam e of the god dess Gauri. It is com mon ly used inSou thern India , and it is possibly from this na m e that the wordKalfkot (Calicut) is derived (see Eastwick's Handbook for Madras,P- 295)-



AN IDOL-CAR. 259

foilow'd them to see whither they went and what they

did ; but, being in the company of others, I could not

do so, nor had my Companions the same Curiosity, as

indeed the Poriugals are not at all curious. I under-

stood afterwards that they went to the Piazza of the

great Temple which is moderately large, and there

danc'd in circles, singing their songs till it was late ; and

that this was a Festival which they keep three dayes

together at the end of a certain Feast in Honor of Gaurl}

one of their Goddesses, Wife of Mokedaca 2 ; and therefore

'tis celebrated by girls.

XVIII.— November the ninth. Walking about the City

I saw a beam rais'd a good height, where, in certain of

their Holy-dayes, some devout people are wont to hang

themselves 3 by the flesh upon hooks fastned to the top of

it and remain a good while so hanging, the blood running

down in the mean time, and they flourishing their Swordand Buckler in the Air and singing verses in Honor of

their Gods. Moreover, in a close place opposite to the

Temple, I saw one of those very great Carrs, 4 or Charriots,

wherein upon certain Feasts they carry their Idols in Pro-

cession, with many people on it and Dancing-women,

1 Called also Devi, Bhavdni, D iirga, or Kali. The name of" G a u r i " is generally applied to her as the Earth-mother".

2 So spelt in original. It should be Mahadeva, a title of Siva.:i This refers to the well-known festival in honour of Siva, called in

some parts of India Charak-piija" (or Swing-worship), when devotees,male and female, were suspended by hooks fixed in the muscles ofthe back and whirled round in the air by means of a movable lever.(See Ward's Hindoos, iii, p. 15, and Heber's Journal, i, p. 77.) Thisbarbarous rite has now, however, happ ily become obsolete, except onvery rare occasions.

4 Called in the vernacular Raths . The best known of these is

the celebrated Car of Jagan-na'th, at Purf in Orissa, but such cars areattached to every larg e Vishnu temple in Southern India. They aresupposed to typify the moving, active, world, over which the godpresides. (See Sir Monier Williams' Modern India, p. 67.) That atPun' is 45 feet in height and has r6 wheels.

S 2



2fjO SOLDIERS ON HORSEBACK.

who play on musical instruments, sing and dance. The

four wheels of this Carr were fourteen of my spans indiameter, and the wood of the sides was one span thick.A t the end of it were two grea t wooden Statues, paintedwith natural colours; one of a Man, the other of a Woman,naked, in dishonest postures; and upon the Carr, whichwas very high, was room for abundance of people to s tand;and, in brief, it was so large that scarce any but the wideststreets in Rome, as Strada Giulia, or Babuino, .would becapable for it to pass in.

I saw also certain Indian Fryers, whom in theirLanguage they call Giangama1 and who, perhaps, are thesame with the Sages seen by me elsewhere ; but they haveWives, and go with their faces smear'd with ashes, yet notnaked, but clad in certain extravagant habits, with a kindof peaked hood, or cowl, upon their heads, of dy'd linnen, of

that colour which is generally used amongst them, namelya reddish brick-colour,2 with many bracelets upon theirarms and legs, fill'd with something w ithin that makes ajangling as they walk. But the prettiest and oddest thingwas to see certain Souldiers on Horse-back, and consider-able Captains too, as I was inform'd, who for ornament oftheir Horses wore hanging behind the saddle-bow two very

large tassels of certain white, long and fine skins (they toldme they were the tails of certain wild Oxen,3 found inIndia4 and highly esteemed), which tassels were about two

1 Or Jangama, the same as the Lingavats, or Linglyats, mentionedante, p. 208.

2 Or saffron colour.3 I.e. of the Yak (Poephagusgrunniens, or Bos poephagus).4

They are not found in India, but in Thibet, and their tails arethence imported. In the mountains to the north of India this animal iscommonly used as a beast of burden. The tail is in great request inIndia as a weapon against flies and also as a mark of honour. Thereis an amusing account of the animal in the Topographia Christiana,by Cosmas the monk (written about A.D. 545), given in Sir H. Yule's



BE LL ER OP HO N UP ON PEGASUS 261

yards in compass1 and so long as to reach from the saddle-bow to the g ro un d; two, I say, hung behind the saddle-bow and two before of equal height and two others higherat the head stall; so that there were six in all: betweenwhich the Horse-man was seen upon the saddle, half nakedand riding upon a Horse which leap'd and curvetted allthe way ; by which motion those six great tassels of skin,being very light and not at all troublesome, but flying upand down, seem'd so many great wings; which, indeed,made a p ret ty spectacle, and made me think I saw somany Bellerophons upon severall Pegasuses.

The same Evening I saw the companies of girls again,and, following them, I found that they did not go to thePiazza of the Tem ple, as they had done the two nightsbefore, but into one of the King 's Gardens, which for th ispurpose stood open for every body and is noth ing but a

great field, planted confusedly with shady and fruit bearingTrees, Sugar Canes and other Garden plants. Hither almostthe whole City flock'd, Men and Women and all the com-panies of the flower'd Virgins, who, putting themselvesinto circles, here and there danc'd and su ng ; yet theirdancing was nothing else but an easie walking round,their sticks alwayes sou nd ing ; onely sometimes they

would stre tch forth the ir legs, and now and then cowredown as if they were going to sit, one constantly sing-ing, and the rest repeating, the word Cole, Cole. Therewanted not other Dancing-women, who exceeded the

Cathay and the Way Thither (1, clxxiv), in which he says : " They tellof this beast tha t, if his tail ca tche s in a tree , he will not bu dg e, butstands stock still, being horribly vexed at losing a single hair of his

tail, so the natives come and cut his tail off, and then, when he haslost it altogether, he makes his escape Such is the nature of theanimal."

1 In the ori gin al," perhap s more than the size of a barrel at Rome",



2 6 2 SEDASIVA NAYAKA.

former in skill and dexte rity . In conclusion, they gather d

into several companies to supper, with the other Wom entha t accompany'd t h e m ; so did the Men also, somewith their Wives, and some alone, of which there wantednot some who invited us, not to eat with them (for theycommunicate not with strangers at the Table) but to takesome of their fare; which we thank 'd them for, but acceptednot, being delighted onely to see them feast so together,dispers'd in several places of the Garden, this being thenight that the Feast ended.

XIX.—The same night a Post from Goa brought theAmbassador a Letter from the Vice-Roy, with another forVitula Stnay1 and a third from the Captain of Onbr? TheAm bassador imparted his intelligence to none, and forbadthe Post to let it be known tha t he had brought Le tters ;whence I conceiv'd that the News was not good, otherwise

it would have been presently publish'd; onely I heardsome obscure talk of the Malabaris? but I would notinquire further into the matter, as that which did notbelong to me ; especially amongst the Portugals, who arevery close and reserv'd towards strangers.

November the tenth. I saw passing along the street aNephew of Venk-tapa Naieka, his Sister's Son, a hand-

some youth and fair for that Cou nt ry ; he was one ofthose who aspire to the succession of this Sta te, and wasnow returning from the fields without the Town, whitherhe uses to go every m orning. H e is called SedasivaNaieka, and was attended with a great number of Souldiers,both Horse and Foot, marching before him and behind,with many Cavaliers and Captains of quality, himself rid-ing alone with grea t gravity. He had before him Drum s,Cornets and every sort of their barbarous instruments.Moreover both in the Front and in the rear of the Caval-

1 See p. 191. 2 See p. 190, note 3. 3 See p. 121, note 4.



A PRETTY PIECE OF AGILITY. 26 3

cade were (I know not whether for magnificence, or for

guard) several Elephants carrying their guides upon theirbacks, and amongst them was also carried his Palanchino.November the eleventh. The Ambassador went again to

Audience to present to Venk-tapa Naieka the letter writto him in the King of Spain's Name and declare whatth at K ing requir'd of him. He went alone without anyof us, or of the Portugals his Companions, either not willingthat we should be present at the debating of business, orbecause he went in a Palanchino and had his two Horsesled before him, but there were neither Palanchinos in thehouse nor Horses enough for the rest of us. W ith thosethat came to fetch him came also a publick Dancing-woman, who perform'd a pretty piece of agility in hispresence ; for, standing upon one foot, when the Drumsand other instruments sounded, with the other she swiftly

turned round in the Air a large Iron Ring, about a spanin Diametre, without letting it fall off her great Toe, andat the same time with one hand toss'd two hollow brassballs, catch ing one in her Hand whilst the other was aloft,and so alterna tely and very nimbly without ever le ttingthem fall ; which indeed was great dexterity, to be imploy'dat the same time with the foot and the hand, standing firm

all the while on the other foot without support and yetattending to the Musick and this for a good space to-gether : during which an old Man with a white beard andbald head who brought her stood behind her, crying allthe while, Abiid, Abiid, Abiid, which in their languagesignifies "Yes", and in this instance as much as Good, Good,Good.

The Am bassador return'd quickly from audience, butsaid not a word of anything . Th e King frequently senthim things to eat; particularly fruits out of season,brought to him from far dis tan t places, amongst which



264 JACK FRU IT.

we had Ziacche} (which I take to be the same with Zdtte*

which is a kind of gourd) a fruit very rare at this time;and also Indian Melons, which how good soever are worth

nothing 3 at any time, the Climate not being fit for such

fruits.

On November the twelfth I took the height of the Sun at

Ikkerl and found the Meridian Altitude 31 degrees. He

was now in the 19th degree of Scorpio and consequently

declined from the Êquinoctial toward the South 17 gr. 29'

23", which being subtracted from the 31 degrees in which

I found the Sun there remain 13 0 30' 37 and such is

the Elevation of the Pole at Ikkerl; which must also be

as many degrees, to wit 13 0 30' 37 , distant from the

Equinoctial towards the North. 4

At dinner the Ambassador told us that the King of

1 The Jack-fruit (Artocarpus integrifolid). The original name isCiaka, or Tsj'aka, a Malay word, written also as Jaca. It is common inIndia and has the peculiarity of growing from the trunk of the tree.It is thus described by John de Marignolli, who visited China in 1342 :" There is again another wonderful tree, called Chakebaruhe, as big asan oak. Its fruit is produced from the trunk and not from the branches,and is something marvellous to see, being as big as a great lamb, ora child of three years old. It has a hard rind like that of our pinecones, so that you have to cut it open with an axe ; inside it has a

pulp of surpassing flavour, with the sweetness of honey and of thebest Italian melon ; and this also contains some five hundred chesnutsof like flavour, which are capital eating when roasted." It is calledShaki Barki by Ibn Batuta, and Giacha Barca by P. Vincenzo Maria(Viag., p. 355). The second name as given by these writers is said tostand for Waracka, a Singhalese name of the fruit. (See Sir H. Yule'sCathay and the Way Thither, ii, p. 362.) The fruit weighs sometimesas much as sixty, or seventy, pounds. A curious superstition is saidto prevail in some parts of India that this fruit will not ripen unless

a stick, covered with lime, be passed through it.2 The words in parenthesis are interpolated by the translator.3 This refers probably to the common water-melon. Some melons

of good quality are certainly grown in India in the present day.4 The latitude of Ikkeri is stated in Hunter's Gazetteer of India to

be 14* 7' 20" N.



A NEW CITY. 265

Spain's letter, which he had presented the day before toVenk-tapa Naieka, concern'd not any business but wasonely one of compliment and particularly to give him muchthanks for having of late years refus'd to sell Pepper to theEnglish and Dutch, who had been at his Court to buy it;and also for the good Amity he held with the Portugals,which he desir'd might encrease every day. Th at of theaffairs of Banghel} or any others, he said nothing, referringall to the Vice-Roy and the Ambassador whom the Vice-Roy had sent to him. W herewith Venk-tapd Naieka wasvery well pleas'd, and he had reason; for during the presentState of the Portugals affairs I certainly think they will notspeak a word to him of Bangful, nor of anyth ing else tha tmay be disgustful to him.

XX.— The same day the Am bassador went to Court, beinginvited to see solemn W restling at the Palace. W e did

not accom pany him for want of Horses and Palanchinoes;but at nigh t he told us tha t Vitula Sinay asked much forme, wishing I had been present at this Wrestling, which wasperformed by Persons very stout and expert therein; be-cause he had heard that I writ down what I saw remark-able. However Carvaglio, Monteyro and myself, not goingthither, went out of Ikkeri half a League Northwards, to

see another new City which Venk-tapd ha th begun to buildthere . 'Tis called Sagher and is already pretty well in-habited, with Houses all made of Earth2 after theirmanner. The Pa lace is finish'd and Venk-tapd frequentlygoes to it; as also a Temple built upon a great ArtificialLake, and a house for his Nephews and other Grandeeswith all conveniencies thereun to, particularly great Stallsfor Elephants, of which he keeps above eighty; we sawmany of them here, some for War, large and handsome.

1 See ante, p. 212.2 That is, of mud, or of sun-dried bricks.



266 A HINDU WIDOW.

A Market was kept this day in Saghir, as 'tis the customevery Sunday and at Ikkeri every Fryday. Th ere was agreat concourse of people, but nothing to sell besides neces-saries for food and clothing after their manner. The waybetween Ikkeri and Sagher is very handsome, plain, broad,and almost always direct, here and there beset with greatand thick Trees which make a shadow and a delightfulverdure.

As we return'd home at night we met a W oman in theCity of Ikkeri, who, her husband being dead, was resolv'dto burn herself, as 'tis the custom with many IndianW omen . She rode on Horse-back about the City withface uncovered, holding a Looking-glass in one hand and aLemon in the other,1 I know not for what purpose ; andbeholding herself in the Glass, with a lamentable tonesufficiently pittiful to hear, went along I know not whither,

speaking, or singing, certain words, which I understoodnot; but they told me they were a kind of Farewell to the

1 The mirror and lemon may, or may not, have had a symbolicalmeaning. In the Percy Anecdotes (vol. iv, p. 393) is an account of awoman who, intending to immolate herself, " held in her right hand acocoa-nut, and in the left a knife and a small looking-glass, into whichshe continued to look." A mirror has always been regarded amongOriental nations as an emblem of the soul, and has been credited withvarious magical powers. It was one of the sacred objects carried inan ark in the Eleusinian mysteries, and in the processions in honour ofBacchus. In the Arabian Nights it is called the " touchstone of virtue",and it is used as an emblem of the Deity in Japanese temples. Evenat the present day a mirror is regarded by many with superstitiousreverence, and its fracture dreaded as an unlucky event. As to theuse of a mirror in arriving at a knowledge of the true self in man,see Max Miiller's Hibbert Lectures, p. 318.

Dubois {Mceurs des peuples de PInde, vol. ii, p. 259) states that he

saw a man who was on his way to self-immolation carrying a lemonon the point of a dagger. The lemon may have been an emblem ofpurity.

Cases of widow-burning in Southern India are not common. Mr.Elphinstone {Hist, of India, p. 190) goes so far as to say that "thepractice never occurs south of the river Kistna (or Krishna)".



A MOUR NFUL PROCESSION. 26 7

World and herself; and indeed, being uttered with that

passionateness which the Case requir'd and might producethey mov'd pity in all that heard them , even in us whounderstood not the Language. She was follow'd by manyother W om en and Men on foot, who, perhaps, were herRelations; they carry'd a great Umbrella over her, as allPersons of quality in India are wont to have, thereby tokeep off the Sun, whose heat is hurtful and troublesome.1

Before her certain Drums were sounded, whose noise shenever ceas'd to accompany with her sad Ditties, or Songs;yet with a calm and constant Countenance, without tears,evidencing more grief for her Husband's death than herown, and more desire to go to him in the other world thanregret for her own departure out of this: a Custom, indeed,cruel and barbarous, but, withall, of great generos ity andvirtue in such Women and therefore worthy of no small

praise. They said she was to pass in this manner aboutthe City I know not how many dayes, at the end of whichshe was to go out of the City and be burn t, with morecom pany and solemnity. If I can know when it will be Iwill not fail to go to see her and by my presence honorher Funeral with that compassionate affection which sogreat Conjugal Fidelity and Love seem to me to de-serve.

XXI.—On November the thirteenth I took the Alti-tude of the Sun at Ikkerl, and found it 31° 40 '. TheSun was now in the 20th degree of Scorpio and declin'dSouthwards 17° 45 ' 40", which taken from 31° 40' leave

1 In Coryat's Cncdities (vol. i, p. 134) reference is made to thecustom of carrying " Um brellaes" as "th in gs that m inister shadowfor shelter against the scorching heat of the sun". Fy nes M orisonalso mentions the custom, and adds, " a learned physician told me thatthe use of them was dange rous, because they gath er the heat into apyram idale point and thence cast it down perpendicularly upon thehead, except they know how to carry them for avoyding that danger."



26 8 A HINDU FRIAR.

13° 54' 20". The former tim e I found Ikkeri to be inI3° 3°' 31" ;1 bu t now I found it to be in 13° 54' 20*,between which there is onely the difference of 23' 43",which is a small m at te r: and therefore I count my obser-vation right; for the small variation between the twotimes is no great matter, inasmuch as the declinationof the Sun not being exactly known m ay cause thedifference.

A t night, walking in the C ity, I saw in the Piazza ofthe great Temple (which I understood was dedicated toan Idol call'd Agore Scuard, 2 who, they say, is the samewith Mahadeii? although they represent him not in thesame shape as that I saw of Mahadeii in Cambaia, butin the shape of a Man, with but one Head and Face andsixteen Arms on each side (in all thirty-two); which is notstrange , since our A ntients call'd many of their Idols by

names sufficiently different and pourtray'd them in severalshapes ; and wherein also I understood the re was an Idolof Parveti* who is the wife of Mahadeii, though the Tem plebe not dedicated to he r): I saw, I say, in the Piazza one oftheir Fryers, or Giangami > clad all in white, sitting in anhandsome Palanchino, with two great white Umbrellas6

held over him, one on each side, (which two were for the

1 So in the original, but it should be 37".2 For " Aghoreswara", a name of Siva. See ante, p. 216.3 See ante, p. 72, note 1.4 See ante, p. 35, note 3.6 Or Jangami, so called from the word Jangam, " movable". See

ante, p. 208, note. They are the same as the Lingavants.6 Umbrellas are, and were even in the time of Arrian, regarded in

the East as marks of dignity. The Emperor of China has twenty-

four umbrellas carried before him, and other dignitaries have a lesserquantity in proportion to their rank. Speaking of some of these Indiansects Mr. Elphinstone says {Hist, of India, p. 104) : " Some of themmaintain a good deal of state, especially on their circuits, wherethey are accompanied by elephants, flags, etc., like tem poral dignita-



A RELIGIOUS DANCE. 269

more gravity) and a Horse led behind, being follow'd by agreat train of other Giangami, clad in their ordinary habits.Before the Palanchino march'd a numerous company ofSouldiers and other people, many Drum s and Fifes, twostrait long Trumpets and such brass Timbrels as are usedin Persia, Bells and divers other Instruments, whichsounded as loud as possible, and amongst them was atroop of Dancing-women adorn'd with Girdles, Rings upontheir Legs, Neck-laces and other ornaments of Gold, andwith certain Pectorals, or Breast-plates , almost round, inthe fashion of a Shield and butting out with a sharp ridgebefore, embroyder'd with Gold and stuck either with Jewels,or some such things, which reflected the Sun-beams withmarvellous splendor; as to the rest of their bodies theywere uncover'd, without any Veil, or Head-tire. W henthey came to the Piazza the Palanchino stood still, and,

the multitude having made a ring, the Dancing-women fellto dance after their manner; which was much like theMoris-dance1 of Italy, onely the Dancers sung as theydanc'd, which seem'd much better. One of them who,perhaps, was the Mistress of the rest danc'd along by herself, with extravagant and high jumpings, but alwayslooking towards the Palanchino. Som etimes she cower'ddown with her haunches almost to the ground, sometimes,leaping up, she struck them with her feet backwards, (asCcelius Rhodiginus^- relates of the ancient dance call'dBibasi)z continually singing and making several gestureswith her H an ds; but after a barbarous manner and such

1 In original Morescha, or Moorish dance. See Shakesp eare :

" I have seen him caper upright like a wild morisco''3 A learned Venetian, born 1450, died 1525.3 Or Bibasis, a Spartan dance , described by Aristophanes (Lysist,

28), and by Pollux (iv, 102).



270 FEET-KISSING.

as amongst us would not be thought handsome.1 The

Dance being ended, the Palanchino with all the train wentforward, the Instruments continually playing before them.I follow'd to see the end, and found that they went intothe chief street and so out of the City by the Gate whichleads to Saghfr, stopp ing in divers places of the street toact the same, or the like, dances over again; and particu-larly in the Entrance of the said Gate, where, amongstmany Trees and Indian Canes which make the City-Wall,there is a small Piazza, very even and shaded abou t likea Pastoral Scene and very handsome. At last theGiangamo with his Palanchino and train enter'd intocertain Gardens without the Gate where his House stood;and after the last dance he remain'd there and the restwent away. Th ey told me this honor was done himbecause they had then cast water upon his Head and per-

form'd some other Ceremony, equivalent to our ordainingone in Sacris, or creating a Doctor.

As I was going along the streets to behold this Pom pI saw many persons come with much devotion to kiss theFeet of all those Giangami, who on Foot follow'd theprincipal Giangamo who was in the Palanchino; and,because they were many and it took up much time to

kiss the feet of them all, therefore when any one cam e todo it they stood still all in a rank to give him time; and,whilst such persons were kissing them and, for morereverence, touching their Feet with their Fore-heads, theseGiangami stood firm with a seeming severity and with-out taking notice of itr as if they had been abstractedfrom the things of the W orld ; jus t as our F rye rs used todo when any devout persons come out of reverence to

1 As to religious danc es, see Sir J. Lubbock's Origin of Civilization,p. 257 et seq., and Sir Monier Williams' Modern India, p. 198, andDubois ' Mceurs ties fieuples de tlnde, vol. ii, p . 354 et seq.



A FUNERAL. 271

kiss their Habit; but with Hypocrisie conformable to theirsuperstitious Religion.

XXII.—Returning home I met a corpse going to beburn'd without the City, with D rums sounding before it ;it was carry'd sitting in a Chair, whereunto it was ty'd thatit might not fall, cloth'd in its ordinary attire, exactly as ifit had been alive. The seat was cover'd behind and on thesides with red and other colours, I know not whether Silkor no. It was open onely before, and there the deadperson was to be seen. By the company, which was small,I conjectur'd him to be one of mean quality. But they toldme that all dead people are carry'd thus, as well such asare buried (as the Lingavani} whom they also put into theEarth sitting) as those that are burn'd; and that he whomI saw was to be burn 'd we gather'd from the Fire andOyle which they carry'd after him in vessels.

The night following there was a great solemnity in allthe Temples by lighting of Candles, singing, Musick anddancing, about twenty Dancing-women, who went in pro-cession with the Idol into the Piazza, dancing before thegreat Temple; but, as I was told, they began very late,namely at the rising of the Moon, which was about anhour before mid-night; so that I was gone to bed before I

knew of it, although in the Evening I saw the lights in theTemple. But though I saw nothing yet I heard of it as Iwas in bed, being awaken'd by the noise; and, hearing thesame was to be acted over again the next night, I purpos'dwith myself to see it.

November the fourteenth. I went at night to the Templeto see whether there was any extraordina ry solemnity;but there was nothing more than usual, nor did the Idolcome forth; onely in the great Tem ple and its Inclosure, or

1 As to Lingavani, see ante, p. 208. Burial in a sitting po sture ispeculiar to more than one religious sect in India.



27 2 A DANCJNG ENTERTAINMENT.

Court, into which they suffer not strangers to enter, they

made their accustom'd Processions with musical instru-ments, singing and other ceremonies, which, I conceive,were the same with those I saw in Akineli1: onely they arecelebrated here every night, because as 'tis a more eminentChurch so, consequently, the service is more pompous;besides that they told me Venk-tapa Naieka had a greatand particular devotion to the Idol Agoresu r, 2 who is hereworship'd.

On the fifteenth of the same m onth came first in theday-time and afterwards at night to our House twelve, orfifteen, publick Dancing-wom en, who, by consequence, arealso publick Strum pets, although very young , being con-ducted by certain of their men. In the day time they didnothing but talkt a little; and some of them made them -selves drunk with a certain W ine m ade of dry'd Raisins, or

a sort of Aqua Vita and other mixtures, call'd in IndiaNippa*; I say some of them, because certain others of lessignoble Race as they are more abstinent in eating so theydrink not any thing that inebriates. A t night they enter-tain'd us a good while with Dancing after their mode,accompany'd with singing, not unpleasant to behold; forthey consist of a numerous company of Women, all well

cloth'd and adorn'd with Gold, Jewels and Tresses4

ofseveral fashions, who sing and strike their wooden instru-ments.5 They begin all their dances slowly and, by degreesgrowing to a heat, at last end with furious and quick

1 See ante, p . 238.2 See ante, p. 216, note.3 A name of the juice of a palm (Nipa fruticans), thence applied to

other spirituous concoctions and probably the origin of our word " nipfor a drink. (See Sir H . Yule's Hobson-Jobson.)4 In the original Intrecciature, which migh t m ean also " garlan ds",

or " wreaths".6 In the original legnetti, or " pieces of wood", a kin d of castane t.

See ante, p. 261.



A NEW COMEDY. 27 3

motions which appear well enough. Am ongst their otherDances two pleas'd me well, one in which they continuallyrepeated these words, J and another whereinthey represented a Battel and the actions of slaughter.In the conclusion, the Master of the Ballet, who directs all,and was one of those that brought them, danced in themidst of them with a naked Ponyard, wherewith he re-presented the actions of slaughter as the Women did withthe ir short sticks. But the end of this shew was mostridiculous: for when they were dismiss'd they not onelywere not contented with the largess of the Ambassador,although I added as much of my own to it, but wentaway very ill satisfi'd, testifying the same by cholerickyellings, which to me was a new Comedy.

November the sixteenth. I was told th at the afore-mention'd Woman,2 who had resolv'd to burn her self for

her Husband 's death, was to dye this Evening. But uponfurther enquiry at the Wom an's H ouse I understood tha tit would not be till after a few dayes more, and there Isaw her sitting in a Court, or Yard, and other personsbea ting Drums about her. She was cloth'd all in whiteand deck'd with many Neck-laces, Bracelets and otherornaments of Gold; on her Head she had a Garland of

Flowers, spreading forth like the rayes of the Sun ; inbrief she was wholly in a Nuptial Dress and held aLemon in her Hand, which is the usual Ceremony.8 Sheseem'd to be pleasant enough,4 talking and laughing inconversa tion, as a B ride would do in our Countries. Sheand those-with her took notice of my standing there tobehold her, and, conjecturing by my foreign Habit who I

1 This hiatus occurs in the original.2 See ante, p. 266.3 See ante, p. 266, note 1.4 In the origin al, " di buon issima voglia".



274 THE WIDOW GIACCAMl.

was, some of them cam e towards me. I told them by

an Interpreter that I was a Person of a very remoteCountry, where we had heard by Fame that some Womenin India love their Husbands so vehemently as whenthey dye t o resolve to dye with the m ; and tha t now,having intelligence that this Woman was such a one, Iwas come to see her, that so I migh t relate in m y ownCountry that I had seen such a thing with my own Eyes.These people were well pleas'd with my coming, and sheher self, having heard what I said, rose up from her seatand came to speak to me.

W e discours'd together, stand ing, for a good while. Shetold me that her name was Giaccamd, of the Race Terlengd}tha t her Husband was a Drum mer; whence I wonder'd themore; seeing that Heroical Actions, as this undoubtedlyought to be judg'd, are very rare in people of low quality.Tha t it was about nineteen dayes since her Husban d's death,that he had left two other Wives elder then she, whomhe had married before her, (both which were present atthis discourse) yet neither of them was willing to dye, butalledg'd for excuse that they had many Children. Th isargument gave me occasion to ask Giaccama, (who shew'dme a little Son of her own, about six or seven years old,

besides a little Daughter she had) how she could per-swade her self to leave her own little Children ; and Itold her, that she ought likewise to live rather than toabandon them at that age. She answer'd me tha t sheleft them well recommended to the care of an Uncle ofhers there present, who also talk'd with us very cheerfully,as if rejoycing that his Kins-woman should do such an

1 Properly Telinga (see Wilks' S. India, p. 34, note). As part ofTelingana lies to the north of the river Krishna this fact may per-haps explain the apparent anomaly, according to Mr. Elphinstone, ofa case of widow-burning occurring to the south of that river. Seeante, p. 266, note 1.



CONVER SATION W ITH GIACCAMA. 275

action; and that her Husband's other two remaining

Wives would also take care of them. I insisted m uch uponthe tender age of her Children, to avert her from her pur-pose by moving her to compassion for them, well knowingthat no argument is more prevalent with Mothers thantheir Love and Affection towards their Children. But allmy speaking was in vain, and she still answer'd me to allmy Reasons, with a Countenance not onely undismay'dand constant, but even cheerful, and spoke in such amanner as shew'd that she had not the least fear of death.She to ld me also, upon my asking her, tha t she did this ofher own accord, was at her own liberty and not forc'd norperswaded by any one. Whereupon, I inquiring whetherforce were at any time us'd in this matter, they told methat ordinarily it was not, but onely sometimes amongstPersons of quality, when some Widow was left young,

handsome, and so in danger of marrying again (whichamongst them is very ignominious),1 or committing a worsefault; in such Cases, the Friends of the deceas'd Husbandwere very strict, and would constrain her to burn her selfeven against her own will, for preventing the disorderspossible to happen in case she should live (a barbarous,indeed, and too cruel La w2); but that neither force norpersuasion was used to Giaccama, and that she did it ofher own free will; in which, as a magnanimous action, (asindeed it was) and amongst them of great honor, bothher Re lations and herself much glory'd. I ask'd concern-ing the Ornaments and Flowers she wore, and they toldme that such was the Custom, in token of the Masti's3 joy(they call the Woman, who intends to burn her self for thedeath of her Husband, Masti) in tha t she was very shortlyto go to him and therefore had reason to rejoyce ; whereas

1 See ante, p. 83. 2 See ante, pp. 85, 86.3 Mdhd-sati, or "V er y virtuous". He nce the Anglo-Indian word

Suttee .T 2



2 7 6 A SAD FARE WEL L.

such Widows as will not dye remain in continual sadnessand lamentations, shave their Heads and live in per-petual mourning for the death of their Husbands.1

At last Giaccama caus'd one to tell me th at she ac-counted my coming to see her a great fortune, and heldher self much honour'd, as well by my visit and presenceas by the Fa m e which I should ca rry of her to my ownCountry; and that before she dy'd she would come to visitme at my House, and also to ask me, as their custom is,that I would favour her with some thing by way of Almstowards the buying of fewel for the fire wherewith shewas to be burn t. I answer'd her tha t I should esteem hervisit and very willingly give her something; not for woodand fire wherein to burn her self, (for her death much dis-pleas'd me, and I would gladly have disswaded her from it,if I could) but to do something else therewith tha t her

self most lik'd; and I promis'd her that, so far as myweak pen could contribute, her Nam e should remain im-mortal in the World. Th us I took leave of her, more sadfor her dea th than she was, cursing the custom of Indiawhich is so unmerciful to W omen.2 Giaccamb, was a

1 As to the m iserable fate of a Hin du widow see Sir M onier W illiam s'Modern India, p. 318, where it is truly said that sh e " suffers a livingdeath". Not only does she live in perpetual mo urning , but she is" a househo ld dru dge , and mu st e at only one meal a day". See alsoDubois (Mceurs des peuples de I'Inde, vol. ii, p. 14 e t seq.), who con-cludes his description of a Hindu widow with the me lancho ly w or ds :"Elle ne peut trouver d'iddes consolantes que dans le souvenir deschagrins qu'elle a eus a endurer lorsqu'elle e"tait sous le joug conjugal."

2 This assertion is somewhat dogm atic. T he conclusion at whichMr. Elphin stone arrives in regard to the motives of this custom is th at" it is more probable that the hopes of immediately entering on the

enjoyment of heaven, and of entitling the husband to the same felicity,as well as the glory atte nd ing such a volu ntary sacrifice, are sufficientto excite the few enthusiastic spirits who go through this awful trial."(See Hist, of India, p . 189.) Be this as it may , it is not imp roba blethat the misery of a Hindti widow's life may tempt a woman to preferdeath as the better alternative. One ingenious theory on the subject is



A DANCING PRIEST. 277

Woman of about thirty years of age, of a Complexion verybrown for an Indian and almost black, but of a goodaspect, tall of stature, well shap'd and proportion'd. MyMuse could not forbear from chanting her in a Sonnetwhich I made upon her death, and reserve among myPoetical Papers.1

XXIV.—The same Evening Lights being set up in allthe Temples, and the usual Musick of Drums and Pipessounding, I saw in one Temple, which was none of thegreatest, a Minister, or Priest, dance before the Idol allnaked, saving that he had a small piece of Linnen overhis Privities, as many of them continually go; he had adrawn Sword in his Hand, which he flourish'd as if he had

that propounded by Thevenot, who says that the custom is owing to" the tyranny of the Brahmins, because, these ladies never being burnt

without all their ornam ents of gold and silver about them, and nonebut they (the Brahmins) having power to touch their ashes, they failnot to pick up all that is precious amongst them."

Dr. Schrader, in his Sprachvergleichung und Urgeschichte, as trans-lated by Mr. F- Byron Jevons, says : It is no longer possible to doubtthat ancient Aryan custom ordained that the wife should die with herhusband." This opinion appears to be opposed to that of Sir MonierWilliams (Modern India, p. 315) and of Prof. Max Muller (HibbertLectures of 1878, p. 83), who both regard widow-burning as a com-paratively modern custom.

1 It is not within the editor's knowledge whether this sonnet wasever published. But in its place the following noble language", asit is truly styled by Sir Monier Williams (Modern India, p. 313),translated from the address of Sita to her husband, in the Rdmdyana,may be quoted :

" Thou art my king, my guide, my only refuge, my divinity.To me the shelter of thy presence

Is better far than stately palaces, and paradise itself.Protected by thy arm, gods, demons, men, shall have no power

to harm me.Roaming with thee in desert wastes a thousand years will be

a day ;Dwelling with thee, e'en hell itself would be to me a heaven

of bliss."



2 7 8 TH E USE OF BOOKS.

been fencing; but his motions were nothing but lascivious

gestures. And , indeed, the greates t pa rt of their Worshipof their Gods consists in nothing but Musick, Songs &Dances, not only pleasant bu t lascivious, and in servingtheir Idols as if they were living Persons ; namely in pre-senting to them things to eat, wash ing them, perfumingthem, giving them Bet/e-leaves,1 dying them with Sanders,2

carrying them abroad in Procession, and such other thingsas the Country-people account delights and observances.In rehearsing Prayers I think they are little employ'd andas little in Learning. I once ask'd an old Pries t, who washeld more knowing than others, grey, and clad all in white,carrying a staff like a Shepherds crook in his Hand, WhatBooks he had read, and what he had studied ? addingthat I myself delighted in reading, and tha t if he wouldspeak to me about any thing I would answer him. He

told me that all Books were made onely that Men mightby means thereof know God, and, God being known, towhat purpose were Books ?3 as if he knew God very well.I reply'd that all thought they knew God, but yet fewknew him aright; and therefore he should beware thathimself were not one of those.

November the seventeenth. By L ette rs brought from

Barselbr? with News from Goa, we heard that the Prince ofEngland was gone incognito into Spain to accomplish hisMarriage with the Infanta; and that his arrival beingknown, and the King having seen him, prepa rations weremaking for his publick Reception. Tha t the Flee t wasnot yet arriv'd at Goa, except one G aleon; and that th e

1

See p. 36, no te 1.2 See p. 99, note 2.3 This question will remind the reader of the answer made by the

Khalif Omar to his lieutenant Amrou, which led to the burning of thelibrary at Alexa ndria. (See Gibb on's Roman Empire, vol. v, p. 136.)

4 See ante, p. 168, note 1,



PROCESSION OF IDOLS. 2 7 9

News from Ormuz1 was that Ruy Freyrd 1 was landed intha t Island and, having entrench'd himself under the Fort,held the same besieg'd with that small Armado he had withhim: whence 'twas hop'd that, great supplies being aboutto be sent to him from Goa, and the enmity of the Englishceasing in consideration of the Marriage between the twoCrowns, and consequently also their assistance of thePersians, Ormiiz would shortly be recover'd; and indeed,in respect of the above-said circumstances, I account it nohard matter.

November the twentieth. In the Evening, either becauseit was the next night after Monday, or that 'twas theirweekly custom, or, perhaps, for some extraordinarysolemnity, Tapers were lighted up in all the Temples ofIkkeri; a. great noise was made with Drum s and Pipes,together with the Dancings of the Ministers of some

Temples before the Gates, as is above describ'd.XXV.—Wherefore I went to the great Temple, where,

as it is the principal, I thought to see the greatest and mostsolemn Cerem onies. After the people were call'd togetherby the sounding of several Trumpets a good while withoutthe Temple they began to make the usual Processionwithin the Yard, or Inclosure, with many noises of their

barbarous instruments, as they are wont to do here everyevening: which after they had done as often as theypleas'd they went forth into the street, where much peopleexpected them, carrying two Idols in Procession, both inone Palanchino, one at each end, small and so deck'd withFlowers and other O rnam ents tha t I could scarce knowwhat they were. Ye t I think tha t in the back-end wasAgoresouer, to whom the Tem ple is dedicated,3 and theother Parveti? or some other Wife of his. First march'd

1 See ante, p. 2. 2 See ante, p. 187.s See ante, p. 216, note 1. 4 See anre, p. 35, note 3.



2 8 0 TH E PROCESSION DESCRIBED.

the Trumpets and other instruments of divers sorts, con-

tinually sounding, then follow'd am ongs t many Torches along train of Danc ing-women, two and two, bare-headed,in their dancing dress and deck'd with many Orna me ntsof Gold and Jewels. After them came the Palanchino ofthe Idols, behind which were carry'd many L ances, Spearswith silken Streamers, and many Um brellas garnish'dwith silken tufts and fringes round about, more statelythan those used by others, even the King himself; forthese are commonly the Ensignes of Grandeur.1 On eachside of the Palanchino went many rows of Women, eitherpublick Dancers, or pro stitu tes ; but because these were notto dance they went bare-fac'd indeed, (as the Pagan Womenhere little care for covering their Faces2) but with a clothbound about their Heads and hanging down behind upontheir Shoulders and before upon their Breasts. Some of

them next the Palanchino carryed in their Hands certainlittle Staves, either of Silver, or Silver'd ove r; a t the endof which hung thick, long and white tufts of the ha ir ofHorses tails,3 with which (as 'tis the custom of greatPersons in India to use them) they went fanning the Air,and either drove away the Flies from the Idols in thePalanchino, or at least performed this Office as a piece ofGrandeur, as with us the same is done to the Pope,4 withfans made of the tails of white Peacocks, when he goes

1 See ante, p. 268, note.2 See ante, p. 46, note. As to the history of the custom of covering

the face adopted by women in India, see Sir Monier Williams' ModernIndia, p. 312. M any of the women in the se parts unc over no t onlythe face, but the bod y abov e the waist also. See ante, p. 258, note.

3 T h e tails here referred to were probably not those of horse s, but of

the Yak (see ante, p. 260), which were and are used in India, andChina also, as a m ark of dignity. By a resolution of the D utchGovernm ent the Director of the F actory at Su rat was speciallyautho rised to hav e four fans " m a d e after the fashion of the country,with feathers of birds of paradise and cow hair {i.e., yak s' tails).

4 The fan used by the Pope is called Flabellum.



DANCING DESCRIBED. 28 1

abroad in Pontificalibus. Neither were there wanting

about the Idols many of their Priests, or Ministers, of theTemple who accompany'd them; particularly one whoseem'd the chief and Archimandrita of the rest; besidesabundance of Torches whose light dispell'd the darknessof the Moon-less night. In this order they came into thePiazza, and there, after they had made a large ring, thedancing began ; first two Dancing-women, one from oneside of the circle, and another from another, yet bothwith their Faces always turn'd towards the Idols, walk'dthree steps forward and then three backward1; and thisthey did innum erable times. I suppose it was a wayof salu ting the Idols. After the said two Dancers alonehad done thus two others from the several sides joyn'dwith them , and they did the same again, three and three.This Salutation, or Pream ble of the Ballet, being many times

repeated, they began to dance, namely two that danc'dbetter than the rest, one on the right side of the circle, andthe other on the left, both with their Faces, never withtheir backs, towards the Palanchino of the Idols, thoughoften in the Dance they retir'd backwards as well as wentforwards. Their dancing was high, with frequent leapingsand odd motions, sometimes inclining their haunches asif they meant to sit down, sometimes rising very high andcausing the skirt wherewith they are cover'd from the girdledownwards to fly out, and always holding one A rm stretch'dout before them, wherewith they now and then made as ifthey were thrusting, or fencing; besides other mad ges-tures which were all accompany'd with words which theysang, and sometimes with cries more apt to give horrorthan delight. Hence, while all the other Dancing-women(th at is those who were uncover'd and loosed for danc ing)

1 Th ese steps m ay have been originally symbolical of the thre estrides of Vishnu as the Sun (viz., morning, midday and evening).See Prof. M. Miiller s Hibbert Lectures of 1878, p. 263.



282 RETURN OF TH E PROCESSION.

danced all in a company together further distant from the

Idols, striking their little sticks and singing, being guidedby a Man who danced with them and was their Master,the other Dancers who were cloth'd stood about the Idols,bu t danced not, nor ever moved from their place ; onelythey accompany'd the Show, very fine with Ornamentsof Gold and Jewels, and some of them having Flowers,others leaves of Betle? or othe r Odoriferous Herb , in theirHands.

Th is Dance being ended, the Procession went forwardswith the same Pomp and a numerous Train of Men andWomen of all sorts. Th ey went not round the greatPiazza in front of the Temple but within the outermostwalls of the Temple, which is surrounded by very largestreets, inhabited for the most part by the said Dancers,or publick Strum pets . Th e circuit of the Procession

began from the right Han d as you come out of theTem ple, which comes to be the left as you enter in;and in the same manner I saw the Procession begin atthe Temple of the Town Ahinela, which I have describedabove2; so that it must needs be one of their usual Cere-monies. Th is procession stop'd at several places in thestreets through which it past; and at eveiy such stopping,

the above-mention'd Dancings, Perambulations and otherperformances were again repeated; whence the Show lasteda good while and concluded at length with the last Dancein the Piazza before the Temple-Gate; which ended, theProcession with the Idols re-entered the Temple, where itbeing replaced according to their accustomed Ceremonies,the solemnity ended and all the people departed.

XX VI.— I was told by one of the spectators tha t thisCeremony was practised every Monday at night and at

1 See ante, p. 36, note 1.2 See ante, p. 238.



THE TOWN ILLUMINATED. 283

every New and Full Moon,1 as also upon certain otherextraordinary solemnities, with more or less Pomp propor-tionably to the Festivals: and he added that the nightfollowing there would be a greater solemnity than this,because the New Moon and another of their Feasts werethen co-incident, and that the King-himself would be there;wherefore I resolved with my self to see it.

November the one and twentieth. This night an infinitenumber of Torches and Candles were lighted, not onely inall the Temples but also in all the Streets, Houses andShops of Ikkeri, which made a kind of splendour over allthe City. In each of the Temples was its Idol, which insome was a Serpent2; and they had adorned the outwardPorches not onely with lights, but also with certain con-trivances of paper, on which were painted Men on Horse-back, Elephants, people fighting and other odd figures;

behind which papers lights were placed in certain littleArches, like those which we make in our Sepulchres;these with other gay Ornaments of Silk hung round aboutmade a sufficiently prety Show. In the great Tem ple notonely the inside, in the middle whereof is a very high andslender Cupola, (which appears without too) but also allthe outer walls and all those round about the Piazza whichlies before it, as also the Houses on the adjacent sides, were

1 As to the prevalence of moon worship, see Sir J. Lubbock's Originof Civilization, PP.-319 to 322, and Prof. Max Miiller's Hibberl Lecturesof 1878, p. 181 et seq. Most of the religious festivals in India areregulated by the phases of the moon. See Dubois, Mceurs despeuplesde PInde, vol. ii, p. 327 et seq.

2 Serpent-worship, as is well known, was formerly very prevalent inIndia and is not yet extinct. See Sir M. W illiams' Religious Life in

India, p. 321, and Sir J. Lubbock's Origin of Civilization, p. 270 etseq., and Prof. Max Miiller's Hibbert Lectures of 1878, p. 115, andDubois, Mceurs des peuples de PInde, vol. ii, p. 435 et seq., andespecially Fergusson's Tree and Serpent Worship. In many templesin Southern India not only serpent idols, but living serpents, areworshipped.



28 4 TH E KING'S PROCESSION.

all full of lights. The concourse of people of all sor ts and

degrees, both Men and W omen, was very gr ea t; and theyappeared to go about visiting all the Tem ples. When itwas very late the King came to the great Temple, accom-panied onely by his two grandsons, to wit Seda-Siva Naieka,(whom I had formerly seen) Son of one of his Daughters,and Vira-badrd Naieka, a young boy, his Son's Son, whomhe designs for his Successor, if his othe r kindred elderthan he, to wit the above-said Seda-Siva and two ofVenk-tapa's Nephews by one of his Brothers whom hekeeps prisoner, do not disturb him. The King came in aPalanchino at a great pace, his two Nephews on Horse-back, and so did Vitula Sinay,1 who rode by the King'sside with appearance of a great Fav ourite . LikewisePutapaia2 came in a Palanchino and other of his Grandees,some in Palanchinos, and some on Horse-back, following

him a t a grea t distance, with some num ber of Souldiersand Servants on Foot; but, in summ, the whole train wasnot very considerable. Th e King stay'd in the Templeabout an hour, being entertain'd with Musick, Dancingand other things which I could not see because I waswithout. A t length he came forth, and with the samecompany, and running in as much haste as he came re-turn'd home; the like did all the other people of whomthe Piazza was full, some on one side, some on theother.

After the King was come out of the Temple theycarry 'd the Idols a while in Procession about the Piazza,but with small pomp and company; so that I car'd not forstaying to see them, but went to another Temple standingat the end of the Bazar, or market, facing a large andgoodly street, where the show of lights was gallant,and there I stay'd a good while with my Companions,

1 See ante, p. 191. 2 See ante, p. 252.



TREATY WITH BANGHEL. 285

(for all the Am bassador's pa rty was come abroad thisnight to see the solemnities; even the Chaplain himself,but disguis'd) to see two great companies of Danc ing-women dance, they all being sent for thither by a greatCaptain, (who, perhaps, had the care of the solemni-ties of this T em ple) after the King was gone from thegreat Temple; they danc'd here a good while in numerouscompanies; after which we return 'd home, it being aftermid-night.

November the two and twentieth. Venk-tapa Naieka hadalready given our Ambassador an answer concerning theaffairs which he negotiated, and the Ambassador had pre-pared a dispatch to be sent to the King of Banghel,1 alsoano ther for the Vice-Roy of Goa, giving him an accountof his negotiation, when a Currier arriv'd from Banghelwith new Letters, both for Venk-tapa Naieka and the

Ambassador; whereupon consultation was held as to whatanswer to return him, which was soon concluded on thepart of Venk-tapa Naieka to this effect, (being no otherthan what I have already mentioned) namely that hewould pay the King of Banghel 7000 Pagods2 yearly,according to the Treaty of Peace, provided the said Kingwould come and live in his3 Court, or in some otherplace of his Country, (excepting such Lands as wereformerly his, for fear he might make new insurrections) orelse in Goa, or any of the adjacent places, namely in theIsland of Salsettef or some place there without the C ity;but in any case such wherein he may be subject to the Vice-Roy of Goa; so that Venk-tapa might be secure that thesaid King of Banghel would live peaceably without makingnew commotions. But in case (as he seem'd to intend) he

1 See ante, pp. 212 and 213.2 See ante, p. 209, note 1.3 I.e., Venk-tapa's.4 See ante, p. 139, note 2.





KING OF SPAIN'S ORDERS. 28 7

above-said terms ; and tha t not for his own sake, but inregard of the intercession which the Porhigals made forhim : tha t this was his last Answer, and that no thing morewas to be expected, or hoped, from him.

From Spain, they say, Orders are sent to the Vice-Royto re-establish the king of Banghel by all means in his State,and to make war upon Venk tapcl unless he restore the Kingintirely. However, being1 that country is remote, and inthe time that is spent in the going and coming of dis-patches many things may happen which may render itnecessary for the Vice-Roy in the present conjuncture toproceed in sundry particulars differently from the Ordershe receives from Spain, and to have authority in this busi-ness of Banghel to deliberate as to Peace or War, as shall tohim seem most expedient, endeavouring to comply no lesswith the times and the Sta te of affairs than with the in-

structions from Spain: therefore the King of Spain in theLetter which he writ to Venk-tapd Naieka, making onelygeneral complements to him, refers all matters of businessto the Vice-Roy to guide himself therein as he shall thinkmost fit.

Accordingly the Vice-Roy, though he knows the King ofSpain's intention and order to m ake war upon Venk-tapd,

yet, not deem ing it a fit time, whilst the Portugalsare engag'd in the war of Ormiiz1 and also in Malacca,(which is reported to be besieg'd either by the King ofAcem? which is Sumatra, or by him and the Dutchtogether) and being much perplex'd in a thousand otherintricacies in India, hath therefore given Order to theAmbassador to seem satisfi'd with whatever Answer Venk-tapd Naieka gives, and to return without making further

1 For " since" ; see ante, p. 27, note.2 See In trodu ction, p. xxvii.3 T ha t is, Achin (A tcheh), a town on the northern mo st point of

Sumatra, in Lat. 5 N . and Lo ng. 95 E. (SeeY ule's Cathay, vo l. i, p. 101.)



2 8 8 DISSIMULATION OF TH E VICEROY.

instance; it sufficing the Vice-Roy to have made this com-pliment for the service of the King of Banghel and to haveshown tha t he hath done therein what was in his power;he well knowing that Venk-tapa would not be moved by theEmbassie alone, and that the conditions he requires of theKing of Banghel upon which to give him what he hadpromis'd are but excuses, and being certain tha t this Kingwill not venture himself in his1 Dominions, (as neither is itreasonable) much less go and subject himself in the Ter-

ritories of Goa, and so will not consent to the proposals.Wherefore, seeing 'tis not time now to constrain Venk-tapaNaieka to greater things by war, he dissembles till a betteroccasion, for fear of drawing this new Enemy upon him atan unseasonable conjuncture, and orders the Ambassadorto depart with a show of good Friendship.

The Ambassador hath accordingly done so, and, seeming

satisfi'd with Venk-tapd's Answer, hath added other Lette rsto those formerly written to the King of Banghel, certifyinghim of Venk-tapd's resolute M ind; tha t either he mustaccept of the Agreement, or must speak no more of any;and that he onely expects at Ikkeri this his last Resolutionbefore returning to Goa. H e hath written the same to theVice-Roy of Goa; and, the dispatches being seal'd, he

hath order'd both Curriers to depart, and also a Brachmancall'd Nangasd together with the Currier to the K ing ofBanghel, sending likewise with them a Christian of Barse-Ibr1 nam'd Lorenzo Pessoa, who was at Ikkeri with Monteyro,that he might, either in Mangalbr? Banghel, or other placesthereabouts, procure Mariners for a Ship remaining atBarselbr unprovided of Men; giving the said Pessoa aLicense to hire some, which license he had obtain'd of the

1 I.e. Venk-tapa's.2 See ante, p. 250, note 2.3 See ante, p. 212, note 2.



CONCLUSION OF LETT ER V. 28 9

Ministers of Venk-tapa Naieka to levy mariners in hisTerritories if need were.

Being by this time sufficiently inform'd of remarkab lethings in Ikkerl I am desirous of divers others , especiallyto see the person of the Queen of O/a/a, 1 whose Historyand many valiant exploits2 I read of when I was in Persia;for which I have a fair opportunity by accompanyingthese Men sent from the A mbassador, of whom whenI have taken leave I shall (God Willing) depart to-morrow.

1 M arked " Oolau l" and " Ulala" in modern ma ps. It is a smallplace of no importance on the coast near Mangalur, about threemiles to S.W. (See Brook es' Gazetteer.) It is ne ar the village ofManjeshwaram described in Eastwick's Handbook of Madras, p. 301.

2 Th e history an d exploits here referred to are described in the nextletter at pp. 313, 314.



LETTER VI.

From J\Iangalbr, Dccemb. 9, 1623.

AVING already seen in Ikkerl as muchas there was remarkable, and beingvery desirous of seeing Barselbr}Mangalbr? and also principally theQueen of Olala? whose Dominionand Residence are contiguous to

Mangalbr, as well because she is Sovereign of those parts,â thing not ordinary in other Countries) and a Princessfamous in our dayes, even in the Indian Historie s of thePortngals, as because she is a Gentile in Religion, as like-wise all her Subjects are, (whence, I conceiv'd, I mightpossibly see some considerable curiosity there) I lay'd hold

of the occasion of going thither in company of these Menwho are sent by the Am bassador, by whose favour beingprovided of a good Horse (in regard tha t the re were noPalanchinos to be hir'd in Ikkerl) and a Man to carry mybaggage upon his Head I prepar'd to set forth the nex tMorning.

November the three and twentieth. Before my departu re

from Ikkerl I was presented by r

itula Sinay* (of whom Ihad before taken leave) with a little Book, written in the

1 See p. 250, note 2.3 See ante, p. 289.

- See p. 212, note 2.4 See ante, p. 191.



PALM-LEAF BOOKS. 2 9

Canard1 language , which is the vulgar tongue in Ikkeri and

all that State. It is made after the custom of the Country,not of paper, (which they seldom use) but of Palm-leaves, towit of tha t Palm which the Portugals call Palmum brama?i.e., Wild-palm, and is of that sort which produces the IndianNut ; for such are those comm only found in India, wherePalms that produce Dates are very rare.3 On the leaves ofthese Palms they write, or rather ingrave, the Le tters withan Iron s tyle made for the purpose, of an uncouth form; and,that the writing may be more apparent, they streak it overwith a coal,4 and tye the leaves together to make a Book ofthem after a manner sufficiently strange. I, being desirousto have one of these Books, to carry as a curiosity to myown Country for ornament of my Library, and not findingany to be sold in the City, had entreated Vitula Sinay tohelp me to one, but he, not finding any one vendible therein,

caus'd a small one to be purposely transcrib'd for me, (therebeing not time enough for a grea ter) and sent it to me as agift just as I was ready to take Horse.

What the Book contains I know not, but I imagine 'tisVerses in their Language, and I carry it with me, as I doalso (to show to the curious) divers leaves not w ritten upon,and a style, or Iron Pen, such as they use, together with one

1 See ante, p. 168, note 1.2 Probably brabo, " wild" (Port .). If by this name the coco-nut palm

{Cocos n ucifera) is referred to the statement here made is not quite cor-rect, for the palm-leaves used for writing on in India are generally thoseof the Palmyra (Borassusflabelliformis), and of the Corypha umbra-culifera, or Talipat (which means " palm-leaf") tree in Ceylon and theadjacent parts of India (Yule's Cathay, etc., ii, 449), though the coco-nutpalm is sometimes used. The leaf of Licicala Spinosa is also usedfor this purpose.

3 Even in the presentdayfruit-bearingdate-trees (Phamixdactylifera)are not common in India. Date-trees {Phoenix sylvestris) are theregenerally grown for the purpose of making sugar from their sap. Itis said that Bengal alone formerly furnished annually 100,000 cwt. ofthis sugar. (See Lindley's Vegetable Kingdom,-p. 137.)

4 Or rather " with charcoal".U 2



292 CACCIATUR'S MISCONDUCT.

leaf containing a Letter Missive after their manner, which

was written, by I know not whom, to our Ambassador; ofwhom taking leave with man}- compliments, as also ofSig: Carvaglio, the Chaplain, Llonteyro and all the com-pany, I departed from /Men a little before noon, goingout at the same Gate whereat I had enter'd; and havingno other company but a Vettitrino 1 and a Pulid 1 whocarry'd my luggage, without any other servant; for asfor Galal the Persian, alias Cacciatur? I was constrain'dto dismiss him for some uncommendable actions and tosend him back from /kkerl to Goa.

I will not omit to tell you that this my brave God-son,(whom I had brought so carefully out of Persia and trustedso much, and who alone of all my old servants re-main'd with me) one day cunningly open'd a light box, orbasket, {Canestri the Portugals call them) wherein I kept

my Clothes, and which, after the fashion of the Country,was not made of wood, but of hoops lin'd with leather,and clos'd with little Padlocks, like those which are us'dat Rome for Plate; and they are thus contriv'd that theymay be of little weight, because in these parts goods andbaggage for travel are more frequently transported uponMen's shoulders than upon beasts' backs; and one of these

baskets, or Cancstri, is just a Man's load. Now the goodCacciatur having open'd mine, without hurting the lock,or meddling with the linnen which he found therein, tookout onelv all the little money which I then had and had

1 I.e., a man from whom the horse had been hired (literally "onewho lets on hire')

2 The name o an outcast tribe, perhaps derived from the word

pitlai, " flesh", such tribes eating flesh forbidden to other persons.There is a good description of this tribe, called by him Puler, inBarbosa's "-Magellan's) account of the Malabar coast, p. 142. Hesays : "These people are great charmers, thieves and very vile people."See also Dubois, J/wiers despciiphs dc TInde, vol. i, p. 66.

3 See ante, pp. 126 12 .



THE THIEF DISCOVERED. 293

put into it, to avoid carrying its weight about me; it wasin one of those long leathern purses, which are m ade towear round the waist like a girdle, full of Spanish Ria ls,1

a Coin in these parts, and almost in all the world,current enough . His intention, I conceive, was to leaveme (as we say) naked in the Mountains in the center ofIndia, and, peradventure, to go into some Territory of theGentiles, or Mahometans, there to pass a jovial life at myexpence. But as it pleas'd God, the theft being done inmy Chamber where none but he resorted, we had vehementsuspicion of him; and therefore the Ambassador, makinguse of his A uthority , caus 'd him to be laid hold on, andwe found the theft2 in his breeches ty'd to his naked flesh;and thus I recover'd my money. I was unwilling tha t anyhurt should be done to him, and, withall, to keep him anylonger; nevertheless, that he might not go into the Infidel-

Countries, lest thereby he should lose his Religion andturn to his native errors, I sent him away with some trustypersons to Goa, giving him Letters also to Signora Maria?but such as whereby they might know that I had dismiss'dhim and that he was not to be entertain'd there, thoughnot otherwise punished. By this Story you m ay see howmuch a Man may be deceiv'd in his trus ting ; how littlebenefits prevail upon an unworthy nature; and, withall,you may consider to what misfortunes a S tranger is subjectin strange Countries; so that, if I had nothing else, beingthus depriv'd of all, I should have been left to perishmiserably amongst Barbarians.

II.—But, leaving him to his Voyage, I departed fromIkkerl, and having pass'd the Town Badraporf I left the

1 Or Real , a coin equal to about 1̂s. of English money in the17th century.

2 See Exodus, chap, xxii, v. 4, for an instance of the use of this wordto signify the thing stolen.

3 See ante, p. 24, note 1. 4 See ante, pp. 243, 244.





AN INVENTION OF TH E DEVIL. 295

enough, and the Indians themselves eat more frequently inthem than in any other vessels. Besides, one must entreatthem three hours for this, and account it a great favor; sothat, in brief, to travel in these Countries requires a verylarge stock of patience. Th e tru th is 'tis a most craftyinvention of the Devil agains t the Charity so muchpreach'd by our Lord Jesus Christ to put it so in theheads of these people tha t they are polluted and becomeunclean, even by touching o thers of a different Re ligion;of which superstition they are so rigorous observers thatthey will sooner see a person, whom they account vile andunclean, (though a Gentile) dye, than go near him torelieve him.

November the four and twentieth. In the Morning,before day, the Brachman Nangasa\ and the Ambassador'sother Men, being in haste, went on before; but I, desirous

to go more at my own ease, remain'd alone with my Pulia1

and the horse keeper; as I might well enough do, sincethe High-ways of Venk-tapa Naieka's Country are verysecure. The road lay over pleasant peaks of Hills andthrough W oods, many great streams likewise occurring. Idescended the Mountain Gat3 by a long precipice, some ofwhich I was fain to walk on foot, my Horse having fallen

twice without any disaster, and by a third fall almostbroke my knee to pieces. I din'd, after I had travell'd oneGau* and a half, in a good Town called Coliir? where thereis a g reat Tem ple, the Idol whereof, if I mis-understoodnot, is the Image of a Woman6; the place is muchvenerated, and many resort to it from several parts inPilgrimage.

1 See ante, p. 288. s See ante, p. 292, note 2,3 See ante, p. 185, note 2. 4 See p. 230, no te 1.5 M arked as Colloor in W yld's map of India, to N .E . of Mangalur.6 Prob ably an image of the god dess Kali. (See ante, p. 258, note 2.)



29 6 RICE CULTIVATION.

After dinner, my Horse being tired, I travelled not

above half another Gan} and, having gone in all this daybut two Gaus, went to lodge at a certain little village,which, they said, was called Nalcal. Certain W omen, whodwelt the re alone in absence of their Husbands, courteouslygave us lodging in the uncovered Porches of their Housesand prepared supper for us. Th is Country is inhabited notonely with great Towns, but, like the Mazandrmr inPersia, with abundance of Houses, scattered here andthere in several places amongst the woods. The peoplelive for the most part by sowing of Rice; their way ofHusbandry is to overflow the soil with water, whichabounds in all places; but they pay, as they told me, verylarge Tribute to the King, so that they have nothing butthe labour for themselves and live in great Poverty.

November the twenty fifth. I travelled over great Moun-tains and Woods like the former and forded many deepRivers. Having gone three Cos3 we din'd in two Housesof those people who sow Rice, whereof the whole Countryis full, at a place call'd Kelidi.i In the Evening my Pulid 5

being very weary and unable to carry the heavy load ofmy baggage further, we stay'd at some of the like Houseswhich they call'd Kabnar? about a mile forwards ; so that

the journey of this whole day am ounted not to a fullGau.

November the twenty sixth . I pass'd over peaks of Hills,and uneven and woody places. A t noon I cam e to agreat River, on the N orthern bank whereof s tands a little

1 See ante, p. 230, note 1.- The province forming the southern shore of the Caspian Sea.3

See ante, p. 22.4 Probably Keladi, a town in the Shimoga district, the cradle of thefamily who reigned at Ikkeri. Set ante, p. 168, note 2, and p. 216, note I.

6 See p. 292, note 2.6 A small village of no importance.7 Or rath er an estuary of the sea.



ARRIVAL AT BARSELOR. 2 97

village nam'd Gulvdn} near which the River makes a littleIsland . W e went to this Island by boat and fordedover the other stream to the far side. Thence we cameby a short cut to Barselbr? call'd the Higher, i.e. withinLand, belonging to the Indians and subject to Venk-tapdNaieka, to distinguish it from the Lower Barselbr on theSea-coast belonging to the Portugals. For in almost allTerritories of India near the Sea-coast there happen to betwo places of the same Name, one call'd the Higher, orIn-land, belonging to the natives, the other the Lower,near the Sea, to the Portugals, wherever they have footing.Entring the Higher Barselbr on this side, I cam e into afair, long, broad and straight Street, having abundance ofPalmetos3 and Gardens on either hand. The soil is fruitfuland well peopled, encompass'd with weak walls and ditches,which are pass'd over by bridges of one, or two, very great

stones, which shew that there is good and fair Marble here,whether they were digg'd thus out of the Quarry, or arethe remains of ancient Fabricks.4 It stands on the Southside of the River, which from the Town Gulvdn fetches agreat circuit, seeming to return backwards; and m anyTravellers, without touching at the Upper Barselbr, arewont to go to the Lower Barselbr by boat, which is soondone ; but I was desirous to see both places and thereforecame hither.

III.— Hav ing din'd and rested a good while in HigherBarselbr, I took boat and row'd down the more Southernstream; for a little below the said Town it is divided intomany branches and forms divers little fruitful Islands.About an hour and half before night I arriv'd at theLower Barselbr of the Portugals, which also stands on the

1 A place of no importance.2 See ante, p. 250, note 2.3 See ante, p. 182, note 3.4 A kind of black marble is plentiful in these districts.



2 9 8 STAY AT BARSEI.OR.

Southern bank of the River distant two good Cannon-shotfrom its mouth; having travell'd this day in all oneGau1 and a half. Th e Fort of the Portngals is very small,built alm ost in form of a Star , hav ing not bad walls,but wanting ditches, in a Plain and much expos'd to allsorts of assau lts. Such Portugals as are married haveHouses without the Fort in the Town, which is pre ttylarge and hath good buildings.

I went directly to the House of Sig: Antonio Borges, aformer acquaintance, who came from Goa to Onbrr togetherwith us, and to whom the Ambassador at Ikkeri3 hadrecommended me. I found, sitting before his House inthe street, the Captain of Barse/dr, call'd Sig: Luis MondesVas Conti.* We discours'd toge ther for a good while andhe seem'd a gallant man, though but young. Here were anArmada and a Cafilah of Ships, which came from Goa and

were going to Mangalbr^ and Coci//,7 or further; they were todepart the next day, and therefore I prepar'd my self to gowith them to Mangalbr. Th is night I supp'd at the Houseof Sig: Antonio Borges with some other Portugals thatcame in the Fleet, and went to lodge by his directionin another good House, together with some Souldiers ofthe same Fleet who were friends of his, as he had not room

in his own House.November the seven and twentieth. Tha t I might not

go alone, without any body to serve me in the Ship, I tookinto my service a Christian of Barselbr* recommended tome by Sig: Antonio and nam'd Manoel de Matos, withwhom alone I went aboard about noon, hav ing first din'dwith many Portugals of the Fleet in the House of Sig:

Rocco Gomes, the chief Portugal in Barselbr, who enter-1 See ante, p. 230, note 1. - See ante, p. 190, note 3.3 See ante, p. 216, note 1. 4 In original, Con sigliero5 See ante, p. 121, no te 3. 6 See ante, p. 212, note 2.7 See ante, p. 199, note 1. 8 See a?ite, p. 250, note 2.



A PERILOUS POSITION. 29 9

tain'd us at his Gate1 in the street very well. Amongothers that din'd with us there was one Sig : HettorFernandez, by me elsewhere mention'd,2 who came fromGoa to Onbr with us ; & the Captain Major of the wholeArmada, Sig: Francesco de Lobo Faria, who commanded aGalley and six other Ships, besides the Cafila of Mer-chants.

I imbarqu'd in the Ship of Sig: Hettor Fernandez, whoin the stree t express'd much courtesie to me. Being gonea good way upon the Sea, and it being now night, theCaptain Major of the Galleys sent our Ship back to fetchcertain of his Men and the other Ships which were notyet got out of the Port of Barselbr; whereinto we designingto enter in the dark, and not hitting the narrow channelwhich was to be kept, we struck upon land, and, the windgrowing pretty stiff, were in great danger of being over-set

and lost; and the more because when we perceiv'd it andwent to strike sail we could not for a good while, becausethe ropes, either through moistness, or some other fault,would not slip; so that the Ship, being driven forciblyagainst the ground, not onely became very leaky, but gavetwo or three such violent knocks tha t, had she no t been new,without doubt she had been split. Th e Sea-men were notonely confounded but all amaz'd ; nothing was heard butdisorderly cries; the voice of him that commanded couldnot be heard; every one was more intent upon his ownthan the common safety; many of the Souldiers hadalready strip'd themselves to leap into the Sea: some ty'dtheir Money at their backs, to endeavour to save the sametogether with their lives, making little account of theirother goods; divers made vows and promises of Alms; allheartily recommended themselves to God; one embrac'd

1 In the original iorta, probably a covered portico.2 See ante, pp. 194 and 205.



3OO ARRIVAL AT MAN GALUR .

the Image of our Lady and plac'd his hope in that alone.

I could not induce my self to believe tha t God had re-serv'd me after so many dangers to such a wretched andignoble end, so that I had, I know not what, secure confi-dence in my heart; nevertheless, seeing the danger cx-treamly great, I fail'd not to commend my self to God, hismost Holy Mother and all the Saints. By whose favour,at length, the sail being let down by the cutting of therope, and the Sea not being rough, (for, if it had, it wouldhave done us greater mischief) the Mariners freed the Ship,having cast themselves into the Sea and drawn her offfrom the ground by strength of Arm; the remainder of thenight we spent in the mouth of the Haven, lying at anchorand calling to the other Ships to come out.

IV.— The whole Flee t be ing set forth before day, wereturnd to where the Captain General with the Galley andthe rest of the Ships stay'd at Anchor for us; and thencewe set sail all together.

November the eight and twentieth. W e sail'd con-stantly Southwards, coasting along the Land which lay onthe left hand of us. Half way to Mangalbr} to wit sixLeagues from Barselbr} we found certain Rocks, or littledesert Islands, which the Portngals call Scogli di Santa

Maria*; one of which we approach'd with our Ship, andmany of our Men landed upon it to tak e wild Pigeons, (ofwhose nests there is great abundance) wherewith we madea good supper. Afterwards, continu ing our course, wepass'd by Carnatef and at night safely enter'd the Port ofMangalbr.

1

S ee ante, p . 212, note 2.- S ee ante, p . 250, no te 2.3 These are mark ed as the Prem eira rocks in Black's Atlas.* Xo such place is to be found in m odern ma ps. Th e nam e may

be used to denote the southern limit of Kdnara, also called Cdrnata, orKarnata. See ante, p. 168, note 1.



DESCRIPTION OF MANGALUR. 30 1

This Port is in the mouth of two Rivers,1 one moreNorthern runs from the Lands of Banghel 2 ; the other moreSouthern from those of Ola/a,3 which stands beyond theRiver Southwards, or rather beyond the bay of salt-water,which is form'd round and large, like a great Haven, by thetwo Rivers before their entrance into the Sea, whose flow-ing fills the same with salt water. Mangalbr standsbetween Olala and Banghel and in the middle of the bayright against the Mouth of the Harbor, into which theFort extends itself, being almost encompass'd with wateron three sides. T i s but small, the worst built of any Ihave seen in India, and, as the Captain told me one daywhen I visited him, may rather be termed the House of aGentleman than a Fo rt. Th e City is but little neither,contiguous to the Fort and encompass'd with weak walls;within which the Houses of the inhabitants are inclos'd.

There are three Churches, namely the See,4

or Cathedral,of our Lady Del Rosario, within the Fort, La Misericordia,and San Francesco without. Ye t in Mangalbr there arebu t three Ecclesiastical Persons in all; two FranciscanFryers in San Francesco and one Vicar Priest, to whosecharge, with very small revenues, belong all the otherChurches. I went not ashore because it was night, butslept in the Ship.

November the nine and twentieth. Ea rly in the Morn-ing I landed at Mangalbr and went, together with Sig:Hettor Fernandez, and others of our Ship, to dine in th eHouse of Sig: Ascentio Veira, a Nota ry of the City. Afterwhich I was provided with an empty House, belonging to aKins-man of his, by Sig: Paolo Sodrino, who was marriedin Mangalbr and came from Goa in our Ship. The next

1 T hes e are the Bolur (also called Netraw ati) an d the Balure, ofwhich the former runs to S. of the latter. (See Eas twick 's Handbookof Madras, p. 301.) 2 See ante, p. 212.

3 See ante, p. 289, note 1. 4 See ante, p. 135, note 4.



3O2 BANGHEL.

night the Fleet departed for Cocin} bu t I remain'd inMangalbr w ith intention to go and see the Queen ofOlala.

November the thirtieth. After hearing Mass in theChurch Del Rosario I visited the Captain of Mangalbr, notin the Fo rt, bu t in a cover'd place without the Ga te, whichis built to receive the cool Air of the Sea, and where hewas then in conversation. H e was an old Man all gray, byName Sig: Pero Gomes Pasagna.

V.—The first of December, in the Morning I went to seeBanghel, by the Indians more correctly call'd Bangker, orBangliervan; 'tis a mile, or little more, dis tan t from Man-galbr, towards the South2 and upon the Sea; and,, the Kingtha t rul'd there and in the circumjacent lands being atthis day driven out, 'tis subject to Venk-tapa Naieka? Amusket-shot without Mangalbr, on that side, is a small

River which is pass'd over by a ruinous stone bridge andmay likewise be forded; 'tis the boundary of the Portugal'sjurisdiction. The above-said m ile is through cultivatedfields, and then you come to BaiigJtel, which is of a rich soil,and sometime be tter peopled than at p rese nt; whencethe Houses are poor Cottages of earth and straw. It hathbut one straight street, of good length, of Houses and

Shops continu'd on both sides, and many other sheds dis-pers'd among the Palmetoes.4 Th e King's House stoodupon a rais'd ground, almost like a Fort, but is now whollydestroy'd, so that there is nothing left standing but theposts of the Gate; for when Venk-lapa Naieka took thisTe rritory he demolish'd whatever was strong in it. TheBazar, or market-place, remains, although not so stor'dwith goods as it was in the time of its own Kin g; yet it

1 See ante, p. 199, note 1.2 Tow ards the south is a mistranslation for tow ard s the north .3 See ante, p. 212.4 See ante, p. 182, note 3.



OLALA. 303

affords what is necessary, and much Areca,1 or Fofel,whereof they make Merchandise, sending the same intodivers pa rts, tha t of this place being better then oth ers ;here are also in the Bazar some Gold-smiths who makeknives and cizzers,2 adorn'd with Silver, very cheap , andother like toys, of which I bought some, and, having seenall that was to be seen, return'd on foot, as I came, thoughsomewhat late, to Mangalor.

December the second. Th is Morning I went to seeOlala, which is about the same distance from Mangalor asBanghel is, but the contrary way towards the South, andstands on the other side of a great River, which was to bepass'd over by boat. The Queen was not here, and seldomis, but keeps her Court commonly in another place morewithin land; yet I would not omit to see Olala, the ratherbecause in the Portugal Histories it gives name to that

Queen, as being that Land of hers which is nearest andbest known to the Portugals, and, perhaps, the richest andfruitfullest which she now enjoyes. I found it to be a fatsoil, the City lying between two Seas, to wit the Main-seaand the Bay, upon an arm of Land which the Port incloses;so that the situation is not onely pleasant, but might alsobe made very strong if it were in the hands of people thatknew how to do it. It is all open, saving on one sidetowards the mouth of the Haven between the one Sea andthe other, where there is drawn a weak wall with a ditchand two inconsiderable bastions.

The Bazar is fairly good, and, besides necessaries forprovisions, affords abundance of white and strip'd linnencloth, which is made in Olala, but coarse, such as thepeople of tha t Country use. A t the Town's end is a verypleasan t Grove, and at the end thereof a grea t Temple,

1 See ante, p. 36, note 2.a This mod e of spelling is unusu al. T he word is spelt Cizar by

Beaumont and Fletcher and by Swift.



30 4 THE QUEEN'S PALACE.

handsomely built for this Country and much esteem'd.Olala is inhabited confusedly, both by Gentiles who burnthemselves1 and also by Malabar Moors. Abou t a mile off,Southwards, stands the R oyal House , or Palace, amongstthe aforesaid Groves, where the Q ueen resides when shecomes hither sometimes. T i s large, enclos'd with a walland trench, but of little moment. In the first entrance ithath a Gate with an open Porch, where the Guard is tostand; and within that a great void place, like a very largeCourt, on the far side whereof stands the House, whoseinside I saw not, because the Court was not there; yet forthis place it scem'd to have something of wild Majesty;behind it joyns to a very thick wood, serving both fordelight and security in time of necessity. The way fromthe Palace to the City is almost wholly beset with Houses.Having seen as much as I desir'd I stay'd not to dine, but

return'd to Mangalbr; there being always a passage-boatready to carry people backwards and forwards.

VI.—December the third. Arriving not timely enoughto hear Mass in the Church Del Rosario I went to SanFrancesco, where I heard Mass and a tolerably goodSermon, preached by an old Father call'd Francesco dosNeves. In the Evening I prepar'd to go to see the Queen

of Olala at her Court, which was the design of th is littleperegrination. And, not finding Sig : Paolo Sodrino myfriend at Mangalbr, by the aid of Sig: Luis Gomes, anunattached soldier, a Native of Cananbr, but who hadliv'd long at Mangalbr, and showed me much courtesy,I engaged a boat which should take me to the court of thesaid Queen, not by the Southern River which comes fromthe Territories of Olala, but by another more NorthernRiver, (different from, and larger than , the before-mention'dlittle and swift one, over which I pass'd by a bridge to

1 Or rather their (dead) friends and relations.



DEPAR TURE FROM MANGALUR. 305

Banghel) above which large river lies the sta te of the saidQueen and the place where she holds her Court, and whichwinds round a good extent of country at the back ofMangalbr towards the East, and falls into the Port ofMangalbr. I took with me also a Brachman call'd Narsu, aNative of Mangalbr, to serve me for an Interpreter with theQueen, (although my Christian Servant spoke the Languagewell) pa rtly tha t I might have more persons with me toserve me, and partly because the Brachman, being aGentile, known to , and vers'd in the ways of, this Court,might be more serviceable to me in many things than myown Serv an t; so, having provided what was needful, andprepar'd victuals to dine with upon the River by the way,which is somewhat long, I determin'd to set forth thenext Morning.

On December the fourth, before daylight I took boat at

Mangalbr, in which there were three Water-men, two ofwhom row'd at the Prow and one at the Poop, with abroad Oar which serv'd both for an Oar and a Helm.Having pass'd by BanglieP- we enter'd into the greatNorthern River, in which on the left hand is a place wherepassage-boats laden with Merchandize pay a Toll2 to theMinisters of Venk-tapa Naiekaf to whom the circumjacentRegion is subject. Rowing a grea t way against thestream, the wa ter whereof for a good space is salt, a tlength we stay'd to dine at a Town call'd Sale? inhabitedfor the most part by Moors, and situate on the right bankas you go up the River.

This Town, with others round it, is subject to an Indian

1 See p. 302.2 Transit dues on merchandise formerly prevailed everywhere in

India , but they have, by the efforts of the British Governm ent, beenabolished to a great extent.

3 See ante, p. 168, note 2, and p. 216.4 A small town of no importance.

X



3 0 6 ARRIVAL AT MAN&L.

Gentile Lord, call'd Ramo Rau,1 who in all hath not above

2000 Paygods2

of yearly Revenew, of which he payes about800 to Venk-tapa Naieka, to whom he is Tributary.Nevertheless he wears the Title of King, and they callhim Omgiu Arshf tha t is K ing of Omgiii,* which is hischief place. Hav ing din'd and rested a while we continu'dour Voyage, and after a good space enter'd into the Stateof the Queen of Olala, to whom the Country on either sideof the River belongs. The River is here very shallow, sotha t though our boat was but small yet in many places westuck against the grou nd; at length about Evening wearriv'd at Mattel,5 so they call the place where the Queenof Olala now resides, which is onely a Stree t of a fewCottages, or Sheds, rather than Houses; but the Countryis open, fair and fruitful, inhabited by abundance of littleHouses and Cottages, here and there, of Husband -men,besides those united to the great Street above-mentioned,call'd the Bazar, or Market; all which are comprehendedunder the name of Manel, which lies on the left bank ofthe River as you go against the stream.

VII.— Havin g landed, and going towards the Bazar toget a Lodging in some House, we beheld the Queencoming alone in the same way without any other Woman,

on foot, accompany'd onely with four, or six, foot Souldiersbefore her, who all were naked after their manner, savingthat they had a cloth over their shame, and anotherlike a sheet, worn across the shoulders like a belt; each ofthem had a Sword in his hand, or at most a Sword andBuckler; there were also as many behind her of the same

1 More correctly Rao, a chief.2 See ante, p. 209, note 1.3 I.e., Arasu, King (Tamil).4 A small town not marked in modern maps.5 A village which is not marked in maps of India,



DESCRIPTION OF THE QUEEN. 307

sort, one of whom carry'd over her a very ordinaryUm brella made of Palm-leaves. He r Complexion was asblack as tha t of a natura l Êthiopian; she was corpulentand gross, but not heavy, for she seem'd to walk nimblyenough; her Age may be about forty years, although thePor tuga ls had describ'd her to me as much older. She wascloth'd, or rather girded at the waist, with a plain piece ofthick white Cotton, and bare-foot, which is the custom ofthe Indian Gentile Women, both high and low, in thehouse and abroa d; and of Men too the most, and all themost ordinary, go unshod; some of the more grand wearSandals, or Slippers ; very few use whole Shoes coveringall the Foo t. From the waist upwards the Queen wasnaked, saving tha t she had a cloth ty'd round about herHead, and hanging a little down upon her Breast andShoulders. In brief, her aspect and habit represented

rather a dirty Kitchen-wench, or Laundress, than a delicateand noble Queen; whereupon I said within myself, Beholdby whom are routed in India the Arm ies of the King ofSpain, which in Europe is so great a matter Yet theQueen shew'd her quality much more in speaking than byher presence; for her voice was very graceful in comparisonwith her Person, and she spoke like a prudent and judiciousW oman. They had told me tha t she had no teeth, andtherefore was w ont to go with half her Face cover'd; yetI could not discover any such defect in her, either by myEye, or by my E a r ; and I rathe r believe tha t this cover-ing of the Mouth, or half the Face, as she sometimes doth,is agreeable to the modest custom which I know to be com-mon to almost all Women in the East.1 I will not omitto sta te th at though she was so corpulent, as I have

mention'd, yet she seems not deform'd, but I imagine shewas handsome in her Y ou th ; and, indeed, the Report is

1 See ante, p. 280, note 2.

X 2



3O8 CONVERSATION' WITH TH E QU EEN .

tha t she hath been much of a Lady, of majestic beau ty,

though stern rather than gentle.1

As soon as we saw her coming we stood still, lay'ddown our baggage upon the ground and went on one sideto leave her the way to pass. Which she tak ing noticeof, and of my strange habit, presently ask'd, Whether therewas any among us that could speak the Lan guag e?Whereupon my Brachman, Narsu, step'd forth andanswer'd, Yes ; and I, after I had saluted her accordingto our manner, went near to speak to her, she standingstill in the way with all her people to give us Audience.

She ask'd who I was, (being already inform'd, as one ofher Souldiers told me, by a Portugal who was come abouthis business before me from JMangalbr to Manel, that Iwas come thither to see her). I caus'd my Inte rpre ter totell her that I was C/u Cavaliero Ponentiuo", (A Gentlemanof the West] who came from very far Cou ntrie s; and, be-cause other Europeans than Portugals were not usually seenin her Dom inions, I caus'd her to be told tha t I was not aPortugal but a Roman, specifying too that I was not of theTurks of Constantinople, who in all the East are styl'd andknown by the Name of Rum/2; but a Christian of Rome,where is the See of the Pope who is the Head of the

Christians. Tha t it was almost ten years since my firstcoming from home and wandering about th e world, andseeing divers Countries and Courts of great Princes ; andtha t being mov'd by the fame of her worth, which hadlong ago come to my Ears, I was come into this placepurposely to see her and offer her my service. She ask 'd,What Countries and Courts of Princes I had seen ? Igave her a brief account of all; and she, hearing the Great

1 In origin al: particularly in rega rd to her person below the waist,where her corpulence, owing to the cotton cloth which she wears,which, accord n g to Ind ian fashion, is worn very tight, is very evident.

- See Yule': Cathay and the Way Thither, vol. ii, p. 427.



CONVERSATION CONT INUED. 30 9

Tu rk, the Persian, the Moghol, and Venk-tapa Naieka1

nam 'd, ask'd, W hat then I came to see in these W oods ofhers? intimating that her State was not worth seeing,after so many other grea t things as I said I had seen. Ireply'd to her that it was enough for me to see her Person,which I knew to be of great worth ; for which purposealone I had taken the pains to come thither, and accountedthe same very well imploy'd.

After some courteous words of thanks she ask'd me, If anysickness, or other disaster, had hapned to me in so remoteand strange Countries, how I could have done, being alone,without any to tak e care of me ? (a tender affection, andnatural to the compassion of W omen). I answer'd that inevery place I went into I had God with me, and tha t I trustedin him. She ask'd me, W hether I left my Country uponany disgust, the death of any kindred, or beloved person,

and therefore wander'd so about the world, (for in Indiaand all the E as t some are wont to do so upon discontents,either of Love, or for the death of some dear persons, orfor othe r unfortunate accidents ; and, if Gentiles, they be-come Gioghies1-; if Mahometans, Dervisci and AbdalP; allwhich are a sort of vagabonds, or despisers of the world,going almost naked, onely with a skin upon their

Shoulders and a staff in their Hands, through diversCountries, like our Pilgrims; living upon Alms, littlecaring what befalls them, and leading a Life suitable tothe bad disposition of the ir hearts).4 I conceal'd my first

1 See ante, pp. 168 and 216. '' See ante, p. 37, note 5. I.e., Darwesh (from two words, m eaning one who waits at the

door (of God), and Abd-Allah (from Abd, slave , and Allah, God ).

4 See Elphinstone's History of India, pp. 14 and 60, 61 . H e says : Many are decent and inoffensive religionists, but many are alsoshameless and importunate beggars, and worthless vagabonds of alldescriptions. See also Dubo is' Mceurs des peuples de I'Inde, vol. ii,p. 269.



3IO CONCLUSION OF TH E INTER VIEW .

misfortunes, and told the Queen that I left not myCountry upon any such cause, but onely out of a desire tosee divers Countries and customs, and to learn manythings which are learnt by travelling the W orld ; menwho had seen and convers'd with many several N ationsbeing much esteem'd in our parts ; that indeed for sometime since, upon the death of my Wife whom I lov'dmuch, though I were not in habit, yet in mind I was morethan a Gioghi and little car'd w hat could betide me in theW orld. She ask'd me, W hat my design was now, andwhither I directed my way? I answer'd that I thought ofreturning to my Country, if it .should please God to giveme life to arrive there. Many other questions she ask'd,which I do not now remember, talking w ith me, standing, agood while; to all which I answer'd the best I could. Atlength she bid me go and lodge in some house, and after-

wards she would talk with me again at more convenience.Whereupon I took my leave, and she proceeded on herway, and, as I was afterwards told, she went about a mileoff to see a work which she had in hand of certain Trenchesto convey water to certain places whereby to improvethem. I spoke to the Queen with my head uncover'd allthe while ; which courtesie, it being my custom to use it toall Ladies my equals, onely upon account of being such,1 thought ought much rather to be us'd to this one whowas a Queen and in her own Dominions, where I wascome to visit her and to do her Honour.

VI II.— After she was gone her way, I with my peopleenter'd into a little village and there took a lodging in anempty house, belonging to a Moor of the Country andnear the Pala ce ; but I caus'd m y diet to be prepa r'd in another house of a Moonsh neighbour, tha t so I might have theconvenience of eating flesh, or what I pleas'd, which inthe houses of Gentiles would not be suffer'd, and as theinhabitants of Mattel are partly Gentiles and partly Mala-



APOTHEOSIS. 311

bar Moors, who have also their Meschitas1 there, I was notin want of good accommodation.

The name of the Queen of Olala is Abag-devl-Ciautrit;of which words Abag is her proper Name; Devi1 signifiesas much as Lady, and with this word they are also wontto signifie all their gods ; nor have they any other in theirLanguage to denote God but Deii, or Deurii, which areboth one, and are equally applied to Princes; whereby itappears that the Gods of the Gentiles are for the mostpart nothing else but such Princes as have been famous inthe world,3 and deserv'd that Honor after their deaths ; aslikewise (which is my ancient opinion) that the word " God"wherewith we, by an introduc'd custom, denote theSupreme Creator, doth not properly signifie tha t FirstCause, who alone ought to be ador'd by the World, butsignifi'd at first either Great Lord,or the like4; whence it was

attributed to Heroes and noted persons in the world, similarto the words of the Holy Scripture, Filii Deorum, FiliiHominum; and, consequently, tha t the gods of the Gentiles,though ador'd and worship'd both in ancient and modern

1 Masjid, or Mosque. See p. 228, note 1.2 Literally, brig ht . Fro m Sansk rit root, div, "to shine . See Prof.

M. Miiller's Hibbert Lectures of 1878, p. 4, where it is said : 'Deva ' ,

as ' Deus ' in Latin, came to mean ' God;, because it originally meant

' bright', and we cannot doubt tha t something beyond the meaning ofbrightness had attached itself to the word ' Deva'before the ancestorsof the Indians and Italians broke up from their common home.

3 This statement is no doubt true to a certain extent. See Sir J.Lubbock's Origin of Civilization, p. 353 et seq,, where he quotes thefollowing passage from the " Wisdom of Solomon : " And so themultitude took him now for a god, which a little before was buthonoured as a man." See also Dubois, Mceurs des peuples de Plnde,

vol. ii, p. 292.

4 The word translated here as " God is, of course, Dio, and is nodoubt derived (as already stated) from the Sanskrit div. Hence camethe name Dyaits (Illuminator), and the Latin Deus. (See Prof. MaxMiiller, HibbertLecticresof 1878, p. 144). Th e English word "God"has of course a quite different histo ry.



31 2 SUCCESSION THRO UGH FEMA LES.

times, were never held by them in that degree wherein we

hold God, the Crea tor of the Universe , and wherein almostall Nations of the world always held and do hold him;(some calling him Causa Prima; others Anima Mundi;others Perabrahmi} as the Gentiles do at this day in India:)but that the other gods are, and were always, rather but asSaints are amongst us ; of the truth whereof I have greatArguments, at least amongst the Indian Gentiles; or ifmore than Saints , yet at least only Deifi'd by favour, andmade afterwards Divi, as Hercules, Romulus, Augustus,etc., were amongst the Romans.'1

But to return to our purpose, they told me the wordCiautru? (the last in the Queen of Ola/a's Name) was aTitle of Honour peculiar to all the Kings and Queens ofOlala, and therefore possibly signifies eithe r Prince, orKing and Queen, or the like. As to this Country beingsubject to a Woman, I understood from intelligent personsof the Country, that in Olala Men were, and are always,wont to reign, and that 'tis a custom receiv'd in Indiaamongst the greatest part of the Gentiles? that the Sonsdo not succeed the ir Fa thers, but the Sons of their Sisters ;they accounting the Female-line more ce rtain, as indeed

1 I.e., Paratn, or Para, Brahma, the chief Brahma (or Pervader)(see ante, p. 73, note 1), from the Sanskrit root, brih.

' For a com parison of the Hin du deities with those worshipped byGreeks and Romans, see Dubois Mamrs des fteuples de PInde, vol. ii,p. 293. In the consideration of the question here raised the distinc-tion (pointed out by Sir Monier Williams in Modern India, pp . 155and 191) between B rahmanism and Hinduism must be borne in mind.

3 Probably meant for Kshatrya, the nam e of the second, or warlike,caste, from which king s are selected. Qu eens and prince sses of the

Malabar royal families are restricted in their choice of paramours tomen of either the Kshatrya (military) caste, or Brahmans, and hencethe descen dants of the former caste style themselves Ksh atryas (seeSir R. Burton's Goa and the Blue Mountains, p. 210).

4 Th is applies in India to some of the Sou thern races only. Seeante, p. 218, note 2.



HISTORY OF THE QUEEN OF OLALA. 313

it is, than the Male. Yet the last K ing of Olala havingneither Nephews nor other Legitim ate Heirs, his W ifesucceeded him ; and she, also dying without other He irs,left this Abag-devi, who was her Sister, to succeed her.To whom, because she is a Woman and the descent iscertain, is to succeed a Son of hers, of whom I shall here-after make mention ; but to him, being a Man, not his ownSons, but the Son of one of his Sisters, hereafter likewisemention'd, is to succeed.1

IX.—Not to conceal what I know of the History of thisQueen, I shall add tha t, after her Assumption of theTh ron e upon the death of her Sister, she was marriedfor many years to the King of Banghel, who now is afugitive, depriv'd of his Dominions, but then reign'd in hisown Country which borders upon hers. Yet, though theywere Husband and Wife, (more for Honor's sake than any

thing else) they liv'd not together, but apart, each in theirown Lands: on the confines whereof, either upon Rivers,where they caus'd Ten ts to be erected over boats, or inother places of delight, they came to see and conversewith one another; the King of Banghel wanting not otherWives and Women who accompany'd him wherever hewent. 'Tis reported tha t this Queen had the Children,which she hath, by this King of Banghel, if they were notby some other secret and more intimate Lover; for, theysay, she wants not such.

The Matrimony and good Friendship having lasted manyyears between the King of Banghel and the Queen, I knownot upon what occasion discord arose between them, andsuch discord that the Queen divore'd him, sending back tohim, (as the custom is in such case) all the Jewels which hehad given her as his Wife. For this, and perhaps for other

1 For observations on this custom see Wilks' Hist, of Mysore,pp. 121 and 122, and Lubbock's Origin of Civilization, p. i$ietseq.



31 4 WAR WITH TH E KING OF BANGHEL.

causes, he becam e much offended with the Queen, and

the ruptu re proceeded to a W ar: during which it sofortun'd that one day as she was going in a boat upon oneof those Rivers, not very well guarded, he, send ing hispeople with other boats in better order, took her and hadher in his power: yet with fair carriage and good wordsshe prevail'd so far that he let her go free and return toher Country. In revenge of this injury she forthwith rais'dWar against the King of Banghel, who relied upon the aidof the neighbouring Portugals because he was confederatewith them, and (as they say of m any Royolets of India)Brother in Arms to the King of Portugal. Th e Queen, tocounterpoise that force, call'd to her assistance againstthe King of Banghel, and the Portugals who favour'd him,the neighbouring K ing Vcnk-tapa Naieka} who was alreadybecome very poten t and fear'd by all his Ne ighbours, andunder his protection and obedience she put her self. Venk-tapa Naieka sent a powerful Army in favour of the Queen,took all the King of Banghel's Territories and made themhis own, destroying the Fort which was there; he alsomade prey of divers other petty Lords thereabouts, de-molishing their strength, and rendering them his Tribu-taries ; one of whom was the Queen of Citrnat? who was

also confederate with the Portugals, and no friend to herof Olala: he came against Mangalbr? where in a battlerashly undertaken by the Portugals he defeated a greatnumber ; and, (in short) the flower and strength of India,''carrying the Ensigns, Arms and Heads of the slain toIkkerv* in triumph. He did not tak e Mangalbr, becausehe would not, answering the Queen of Olala who urg'd

1 See ante, pp. 168 and 216.- I.e., Karn dta, or the Ka narese country. See ante, p. 168, note 1.3 See ante, p. 212, note 2.4 This statement must be accepted cum grano.s See ante, p. 216, note 1.



CIC-RAU-CIAUERU. 315

him to it; Tha t they could do tha t any time with muchfacility, and that 'twas best to let those Portugals remainin that small place, (which was rather a House than aFortress) in respect of the Traffick and Wares which theybrought to the benefit of their Countries. After which hecame to a Treaty with the Portugals, by which he restor'dthe Ensigns he had taken from them, and by their meansthe King of Banghel surrendered the Fort, which Venk-tapa, as I said before, demolish'd ; besides making otherconditions which are now under consideration, accordingas is above-mention'd in my Relation of the Embassie toIkkeri}

This was the War of Banghel, in which the Queen gotthe better of the King and the Portugals, of which she wasvery proud ; yet, withall, her Protector, Venk-tapa Naieka,who is very rapacious and little faithful, sufficiently humbled

her, and she got not much benefit by him, saving quietliving; for, besides his subjecting her to his obedience in amanner, she was necessitated, whether by agreement, orviolence, I know not, to resign to him Berdrete? which is thebest and richest City she had, together with much Land onthe confines of Venk-tapa, and of the inner part of herCountry, which amounted to a good part of her Dominions;however at presen t she lives and governs her C ountry inPeace, being respected by all her Neighbours. This Queenhad an elder Son than he who now lives; he was call'dCic-Rau-Ciauerii? and dy'd a while since. The Portugalssay tha t she herself caus'd poyson to be given himbecause the young man, being grown up and of muchspirit, aspir'd to deprive her of the Government and make

1 See ante, pp. 285-86.2 Not traceable in modern maps.3 Probably me ant for Chik ka-R ao , or Junior Chief. Ciaueru

seem s to be a misprint for Ciautru , the title already me ntioned atp. 312, quod vide.



316 RUMO URS ABOUT TH E QUEEN

himself Master: which is possible enough; or divers

other Princes in the world have procur'd the death of theirown Children upon jealousie of State; so prevalent is thatcursed, enormous, ambition of ruling. Yet, such an impietynot being evident to me concerning the Queen, I will notwrongfully defame her, bu t rathe r believe that the youngman dy'd a natura l dea th, and with regre t to her. Soneither do I believe what the Portugals,incens'd against her,further report, nam ely that she ha th attem pted to poysonthis second Son, but that it succeeded not, he being advertis'dthereof by his Nurse who was to give him the poyson;since I see that this Son lives with her, in the sam e placeand house, peaceably, which would not be if there wereany such mat te r: nor can I conceive why she should goabout to extinguish all her own Issue in this manner, hav-ing now no other Heir born of herself.

X.—December the fifth. T he Queen of Olalds Son,whd, though he govern not, (for the Mother administers allalone, and will do so as long as she lives) yet for honor's sakeis styl'd King, and call'd Celuua Rairu} (of which wordsCeluua is his proper name, and Rairu his title) sent for theBrachman, my Interpreter, in the Morning, and, discoursinglong with him, m ade particular inquiry about me, telling

him tha t he understood I was much whiter than thePortugals who us'd to trade in that Country and of a verygood presence and consequently must needs be a personof quality. In conclusion he bid him bring me to himwhen my convenience serv 'd; for he was very desirous tosee me and speak with me. Th is Message being relatedto me, I let pass the hour of dinner, (because, having no

appetite and finding my stomack heavy, I would not dinethis day) and, when it seem'd a convenient time , I went

1 Probably meant for Saluva Rairu , or King Saluva. Unknownto fame, so far as has been ascertained.



TH E PALACE. 317

(with my In terp reter ) cloth'd in black, after my custom;yet not with such wide and long Breeches down to theheels, as the Portugals for the most part are wont towear in India} in regard of the heat, (for they are verycommodious, covering all the Leg and saving the wearingof S tockings, so that the Leg is naked and free) but withStock ings and Garters and ordinary Breeches, without aCloak, (though itisus'd by the Portugal Souldiers in India,even of greatest qua lity) but with a large Coat, or Cassock,2

open at the sides, after the Country fashion.The Palace, which may rathe r be call'd Capanna Reale

(a Royal Lodge), is entered by a Gate like the grate, orlattice,3 of our Vine-yards at Rome, ordinary enough, placedin the midst of a field, which like them is divided by asmall hedge from the neighbouring fields. W ithin theGate is a broad Walk, or Alley, on the right side whereof

is a spacious cultivated plot, at the end of which the Walkturns to the right hand, and there, upon the same plot, standsthe Royal Mansion, having a prospect over all the said g reatgreen field. In the middle of this second turn of the Walkyou ente r into the House, ascending seven, or eight, woodenstairs, which lead into a large Porch, the length of which isequal to the whole fore-part of the House. Th is Porch was

smeared with cow-dung after their manner, the walls aboutshining, and being painted with a bad red colour much us'dby them. The fore-part of it, which is all open, is upheldby great square posts, of no great height, for 'tis theircustom to make all buildings, especially Porches, low inrespect of their breadth and length, with very broadeaves; which is, I believe, by reason of the great heat ofthe Country, where they have m ore need of shade andcoolness, than of air, or light. Directly opposite to the

1 I.e., Paijdmas, or loose trousers.- See ante, p. 43, note 4.:1 In original, Cancello .



3 1 8 T H E KIN'G'S CHAMBER.

stairs, in the middle of the Porch, was another small Porch,

which was the only entrance into the inner part of thebuilding.W ithin the little Porch was a small room, long and

narrow, where the King sate near the wall on the left side;and he sate upon the ground after the Eastern manner, uponone of those coarse cloths, which in Persia and Turkicare call'd Kielim1 and serve for poor people; nor was itlarge, bu t onely so much as to contain the Person of theKing, the rest of the room being bare , saving that it wassmoothed over with Cow-dung.2 Beside the King , but alittle farther on his left hand, sate upon a little mat, suffi-cient onely to contain him, a Youth of about fifteen, oreighteen, years of age, call'd Bale Rairii? who is hisnephew, and is to succeed him, being the Son of hisdeceased Sister, who was daughte r of the present Queen.4

The Father of this Youth was a neighbouring GentilePrince, whom they call the King of Cmnbia,6 (or perhapsmore correctly, Kunble) call'd by his proper name Rainb-Nato-Ari1'; of which words Ramb-Ndto is the proper name,and ArV the title. They said he was still living, thoughothers at Goa told me afterwards tha t he was dead. Butbeing8 this young Bale Rairii was not to succeed his Father,

but had Right of Inheritance in Olala, therefore he liv'd notin his Father's Country, but here at Manel with his Grand-

1 See ante, p. 253. An interesting article on Tu rkish and Persiancarpets, by Mr. Church, will be found in The Portfolio of April 1892.

- As to this use of cow-dung, see ante, pp. 87, 230, and 231.3 See ante, p. 316, note 1.4 As to this rule of succession, see ante, p. 218, note 2.•' M arked Co om bla in W yld's ma p of India . It is a small town

on the coast, of no importance.u More correctly R am ni th Adi .7 I.e., Ram , or Ra ma , an incarnation of Vishnu (see ante, p. 223),

Xat/i, Lord , and Adi, or Art, First or Chief.• For sin ce ; see ante, p. 27, note 1.



FLY-FLAPPERS. 319

mother and his Uncle. None other sate with the King, butthree, or four, of his more considerable servants stood in theroom, talk ing with him ; and in the grea t Porch, outsidethe little one, stood in files on either side other servants ofinferior degree, two of whom neares t the entrance fannedthe Air with fans of green Taffeta1 in their Hands, as if todrive away the flyes from the King, or from the entrance, aCeremony us'd, as I have said elsewhere, by Indian Princesfor Grandeur2; and they told me the use of a green colour

was a ceremony too, and the proper badge of the King ofOlala, for the King of BangJwl uses Crimson ; other Princeswhite, as I saw us'd by Venk-tapa Naieka%; and others, per-haps, othe r colours. A small com pany indeed, and a poorappearance for a King; which call'd to my remembrancethose ancient Kings, Latinus, Turnus and Evander? who,'tis likely, were Princes of the same sort.5

Such persons as came to speak with the King stood with-out in the Porch, either on one side, or in the m iddle of thelittle Porch ; either because the room was very small andnot sufficient for many people ; or rather, as I believe, formore State. Th e King was young, not above seventeen

1 In the original Zendado, which mean s a thin k ind of silk cloth. Ta ffeta is so called from the Pers ian word Taftan, to weave . Aremarkable instance of the rapid naturalization of a foreign word isfound in the use of the word Taffata as early as in Shake speare'stim e, to deno te flimsy, or frivolous talk. (See Love's Labour's Lost,Act v, Sc. 2) :

Taffata phras es, silken term s precise,Three-pil'd hyperboles, spruce affectation,Figures pedantical.

See also Love's Labour's Lost, Act v, Sc. 2 :

Beauties no riche r than rich taffata.2 See a?ite, p. 251. 3 See ante, p . 251.4 See Virgil's sEneid, vii, viii, an d ix. T he last nam e is written as

Au ste in the original.5 Turn res inopes Ev and rus habebat. (Virg., ^-En., viii, 100.)



32 0 DESCRIPTION OF TH E KING .

years of age, as they told m e, ye t his aspect showed him tobe o lde r; for he was very fat and lusty, as far as I couldconjecture of him while sitting , and, besides, he had longhairs of a beard upon his face, which he suffer'd to growwithout cutting, though they appeared to be but the firstdown. In complexion he was dusky,1 not black, as hisMother is, but rather of an earthy colour, as almost all theMalabaris1 generally are. H e had a louder and biggervoice than Youths of his age use to have, and in his speak-ing, gestures and all other things he shew'd Judgment andmanly gravity. From the girdle upwards he was all naked,saving that he had a thin cloth painted with severalcolours3 cast across his shoulders. The hair of his headwas long after their manner, and ty'd in one great knot,which hung on one side wrapt up in a little plain piece oflinnen, which looked like a night-cap fallen on one side.

From the girdle downwards I saw not what he wore,because he never rose from his seat, and the Chamber wassomewhat dark ; besides tha t the painted cloth on hisshoulders hung down very low. His Nephew who satebeside him was not naked, but clad in a wholly whitegarment; and his Head was wrapt up in a greater fold ofwhite cloth, like a little Turban.4

XI.— W hen I came before the King his Men made mecome near to the little Porch in the midst of them, wherestanding by myself, after the first salutations, the Kingpresently bid me cover my head ; which I forthwith didwithout further intreaty ; though with his Mother, beinga Lady, I was willing to superabound in Courtesie, speak-ing to her all the time uncover'd. But with the Son, whowas a Man, I was minded to enjoy the priviledge of my

1 In original, basso .- See ante, p. 121, note 4.3 I.e., chintz. See ante, p. 45, note 1.4 See ante, p. 248, note 4.



CONVERSATION W ITH TH E KING. 32 1

descent, and to receive the favour which he did me as due tomy quality . A t first they ofFer'd me nothing to sit upon,nor was it fitting to sit down upon the bare ground . Ye t,to shew some difference between my self and the by-standers, after I had put on my Hat I lean'd upon mySword and so talk'd as long as I was stand ing, which wasnot long, the King, who a t first sat side-wise, turn inghimself directly towards me, although by so doing heturn 'd his back to his Nephew. He ask'd me almost allthe same questions as his Mother had done1; Whence Icame ? W hat Countries I had travell'd through ? WhatPrinces I had seen ? W hether I had left my own Countryupon any misfortune ? Or why ? How I would havedone thus alone in strange Countries, in case of sicknessor other accidents ? To all which I answer'd as I haddone to his Mother ; and upon my saying that I wander'd

thus alone, up and down, trusting in the help of God. heask'd me, Who was my God ? I answer'd him, (pointingupw ards) Th e God of Heaven, the Creator of theUniverse ; whereupon certain Souldiers the re present, (inall likelyhood Moors) as if applauding me, said, Ah Chodia,Chodia? which in the Persian Tongue signifies Lord, and ismeant for God; inferring that I worship'd the true God,whom the Moors pretend to know, in opposition to the Idolsof the Gentiles of the Country ; and they us'd the Persianword Chodia, because that probably the Sect of Mahometcame into these parts from Persia? (which is not veryremote from India) as also from Arabia; or, perhaps,

1 See ante, pp. 308-10.2 For Khuda, Lord or God (Arabic).3 The first invasion of India by Muhammadans (A.D. 664) was made

by Ara bs. But they only pen etrated as far as Mult^n. Th e firstinvasion of the western coast of Ind ia, to which P. della Valleprob ably refers in this pass age , was by a P ersian arm y sent fromShir£z in A.D. 711. (See Elphin stone 's Hist, of India, pp. 259-61.'i

Y



322 A PRESEN T TO TH E KING.

because the Indians of the Territory of Idal-ScuW and

Dacan? being in great p art Moors, use much the PersianTongue, which is spoken in the Courts of those Princes noless than their natural Lan gu ag e3; with whom these otherIndians more inland to the Sou th have, by reason ofneighbourhood, communication both in Religion andSpeech.

The King told me several times that he had very greatcontentment in seeing me and that no European of anyquality had ever been in his Country; that my person wellshew'd of what quality I was. Nor was he mistaken herein;for what other person would ever go out of Europe intohis Country ? unless some Portugal Merchant, one of thosewho come hither for the most part to seek wood to makemasts and y ards for Ships ; these W oods abounding withvery goodly Trees. I told him I was sorry I had nothingworthy to present to him ; that in my Country therewanted not gallant things for his Highness ; but, it beingso many years since my departure thence, and my Travelsex tendin g so far, I had nothing left as I desi r'd; yet, as amemorial of my service, I should venture to give him asmall trifle from my Country. W hereupon I caus'd myInterpreter, who carried it, to offer him a little Map of the

World which I had brought with me out of Italy; tellinghim what it was, and how all the Countries, L ands, Seasand Islands of the world were exactly delineated in it, withtheir Names set to each place in our Tongue, and all thatwas necessary to make him understand what it was. TheKing was greatly pleas'd with it and desir'd to see severalCountries, where they lay, and how great they were, asking

me sundry questions about them; but, being4

he understood1 See ante, p. 143, note 5, and p. 149.- See ante, p . 141, no te 1.3 See ante, p. 150, note 2.4 F or since ; see p. 28, note I.



A PRESSING INVITATION. 323

not our letters written therein, he satisfi'd himself with thesight onely and with shewing it to all the by-standers asa curious and ingenious W ork of Art. Then he ask'd mewhether I could eat in their Houses, or of their meats ; forhe desir'd to give me something to eat. I answer'd that Icould, and that the purity of our Religion consisted not inthe eating, or touching, of things, but in doing good works.He earnestly desir'd of me that I would stay awhile till somemeat were prepar'd for m e ; for by all means he wouldhave me eat something in his House, and would himselfsee me eating. I told him that, if his intention were onelyto give me meat, the time was already past, nor was Idispos'd to eat; but if it were to see me eat, I could noteat in that place after the fashion of my Country, nothaving there the preparations necessary thereunto, so thathis Highness1 would not see what, perhaps, he desir'd ;

and therefore I besought him to excuse me. Neverthelesshe was so urgen t for it, tha t not to appear discourteous, Iconsented to obey him. And, till the meat came, the K ingcommanded some of his Servants to conduct me to sit downby them in the Porch, where I might sit after our manner,but not in the King's sight.

Hereupon I with-drew with some of his Men to enter-

tain me, and in the mean time the King remain'd talkingwith the rest of them concerning me, commending memuch for several things, but, above all, for a good presence,for speaking truly and discreetly like a Gentleman, and formy civil deportm ent. But, before I proceed further, I willhere present you with a rough and unmeasur'd draught ofthe King's House and the place wherein he was ; so far asmay suffice for the better understanding of what is alreadysaid and is to follow after.

1 As to this title of Highness (and other titles), see Selden'sTitles of Honour, Part I, p. 140, and D'Israeli's Curiosities of Litera-ture, p. 66,

Y 2



4 GROUN D-PLAN OF TH E PALACE.

l l

1. At the foot of this design is the Gate of the Palace.2. The Walk leading to it, and included within the enclosure of the

palace.3. A great plain and sown field.4. T he turn ing of the Walk before th e Hou se, where the short lines,

intersecting the outward line towards the field, repre sent the Tre esplanted at equal distances and in order.

j . Seven or eight wooden Stairs leading up to the P orch.6. Th e Porch of the Hous e, in which the little squ ares, near the



EXPLANATION OF GROUND-PLAN. 325

outer lines, are the wooden pillars which support it, and the surround-ing lines are the walls.

7. T h e Kin g's Serv ants, stand ing on either side without the littlePorc h of the Cham ber.

8. I, Pietro Delia Valle, when I first talk'd with the King, standing.9. The Room wherein the King was.10. The King, sitting on the ground upon a little coarse cloth.11. The King's Nephew, sitting on the ground upon a little mat.12. The King's Servants standing.13. I, Pietro Delia Valle, sitting in the said room on the ground

upon a little low T ab le , whilst I ate and discours'd with the King a

very long time together; the place mark'd with the number 13 beingthat where they set the meat before me.14. A small open Court.15. A small slope, or bank, in the said Court, leading from the more

inward Chambers to that where the King was.16. Inner Chambers and Lodgings, which what they were I saw

not ; but they were of very bad earthen buildings, low an d coveredwith tha tch, like Co ttage s, that is with Palm-leaves ; which arealways to be understood when I speak of Cottages, or Houses, cover'dwith thatch in India.

17. I , Pietro Delia Valle, sitting between two of the King'sServ ants upon the side of the Po rch , (after havin g spoken the firsttime with the King) entertaining me while the meat was preparing.

XII.—The meat was not long in preparing, and, it beingnow in order, the King call'd for me again to enter intothe room where it stood ready; and one of the Brachmans,who spoke Portugal and was wont to accom pany me,

ask'd me Whether it would not be more convenient for meto ungird my Sword and put off my Cassack1 ? I answer'd,that my Cassack gave me no trouble, nor was there occa-sion to lay it off; but my Sword might be laid aside, and,therewith ungirding it, I gave it him to hold : which I didthe rather because, all Princes being commonly suspicious,I imagin'd the King would not like my entring in with

Arms ; and he that goes into another's House, to visit himand do him honour, is not to disgust, but to comply with,him in all points. So I enter'd without a Sword, but yet




326 THE SHOE QUESTION.

with shoes and stockings on, though with them it be un-

usual to do so ; for none should enter into tha t place butbare-foot, and the King himself is so there, according totheir custom: nor did I scruple1 as to their taxing me withuncleanliness, as undoubtedly they would have done inTurkic and Persia if I had enter'd into their rooms withshoes, or slippers, on, because the re all the rooms are cover'dwith Carpets, but there was not any in these of the King,onely the pavement was gloss'd with Cow-dung.2 Where-fore, as to have put off my shoes, (besides that they are notso easily slip'd off as Pantofles, nor does it shew well to do so)would have been an exorbitant and unnecessary humility,so to enter with them on was to me convenient and decor-ous, without any liableness to be accus'd of uncleanliness,being* the floore was not cover'd; if it had been so withCarpets, or the like, as 'tis usual in Turkie and Persia, then,

(to avoid seeming slovenly by soiling the place with mydirt}- shoes and my self by sitting upon them,4 whichindeed is not handsome) I should have caus'd my shoes tobe pu ll 'dof f; for which purpose I had accordingly caus'da pair of slippers of our fashion to be brought along withme, in case there should have been need of them; our kindof shoes being not so easie to be pu t off, by shaking thefoot alcne without the he lp of the hand, as those which forthis end are us'd by all the Eastern people.5

Entering in this manner and saluting the King as Ipass'd I went to sit down at the upper end of the Chamber,(as 'tis above describ'd) where they had prepar 'd a little

1 So Milton: He scrupled not to eat against his better know-ledge (Par. Lost, ix, 997).

- See ante, p. 231.;1 For sin ce ; see ante, p. 28, note.4 This result would follow from the adoption of the usual deferen-

tial posture of kneeling and sitting on the heels.'" Shoes, or slippers, o pen at the heels be ing usually worn by

Oriental nations.



RICE, FIGS AND PICKLES. 3 2 7

square board of the bigness of an ordinary stool, which

might serve for a single person, but rais'd no more thanfour fingers above the ground; upon this I sat down,crossing my Legs one over the othe r; and that littleelevation help'd me to keep them out from under m e, withsuch decency as I desir'd. Right before the seat, upon thebare floor, (the Indians not using any Tables) they hadspread, instead of a dish, (as their custom is, especially withus Christians, with whom they will not defile their ownvessels ; it not being lawful for them ever to eat again inthose w herein we have eaten) a great Leaf of that Treewhich the Arabians and Persians call Mous} the Portugalsin India Field d' India, Indian Fig-trees; and upon thesaid Leaf they had lay'd a good qua ntity of Rice, boyl'd,after their manner, onely with water and salt; but forsauce to it there stood on one side a little vessel made of

Palm-leaves, full of very good butte r melted. There layalso upon another Leaf one of those Indian Figgs, cleanand pared; and hard by it a quantity of a certain red herb,2

commonly eaten in India, and call'd by the PortugalsBredo, (which yet is the general appellation of all sort ofherbs). In another place lay several fruits us'd by them,and, amongst the rest, slices of the Bambii? or great IndianCane; all of them preserv'd in no bad manner, which theycall Acciabf besides one sort pickled with Vinegar, as ourOlives are. Bread there was none, because they use none,but the Rice is instead of i t ; which was no great defect tome, because I am now accustom'd to do without it, and eat

1 For Monzah, the Arabic name of Musa Paradisiaca, the plan-tain ; or Musa sapientum, usually called banana.

2

Perhaps the tomato {Lycopersicum esculentuni).3 See p. 220, note 3.4 Properly Achdr, a native word for any kind of pickle. M andelslo,

speaking of man goes, says : They {i.e., the natives of India) getthem while they are gree n, and put the m up in salt, vinegar a ndgarlick, an d then they call them ' M ang as d'Achar'.



32 8 CURRY AND RICE.

very little. Th e King very earnes tly pray'd me to eat,

excusing himself often that he gave me so small an en-terta inm ent on the sudden ; for if he had known mycoming beforehand he would have prepar'd many Carlls1

and divers other more pleasing meats.Laril is a name which in India they give to certain

Broths made with Butter, the Pulp of Indian Nuts, (insteadof which in our Countries Almond Milk may be us'd,being equally good and of the same virtue) and all sorts ofSpices, particularly Cardamoms'2 and Ginger, (which we usebut little) besides herbs, fruits and a thousand other condi-ments. Th e Christians, who eat everything, add Flesh, orFish , of all sorts, especially H ens, or Chickens, cut in smallpieces, sometimes Eggs, which, without doubt, make itmore savory: with all which things is made a kind ofBroth, like our Guazetti, or Pottages, and it may be made

in many several ways ; this Broth, with all the abovesaidingredients, is afterwards poured in good quantity upon theboyled Rice, whereby is made a well-tasted mixture, ofmuch substance and light digestion, as also with very littlepains ; for it is quickly boyled, and serves both for meatand bread together. I found it very good for me, and usedit often, as also the Pilao elsewhere spoken of,'' and made of

Rice and butter boyled with it and flesh fryed therein, be-sides a thousand other prepa rations of several sorts whichare so common to everybody in Asia; and I account it oneof the best and wholesomest meats that can be eaten in theworld, without so many Artificial Inventions as our gut-lings of Europe (withall procuring to themselves a thousandinfirmities of Gouts, Catarrhs and other Maladies, little

1 This is our well-known curry in disguise. T he word is derivedfrom the Persian Khurdi.

- Cardtimomitm repens. (See Eastw ick's Handbook, p. 299.;3 In one of the Letters from Persia.



HANDS FOR SPOONS. 32 9

known to the Orientals1) daily devise to the publickdamage.

But to return to my Relation, the King told me hewould have given me a better entertainment, but yetdesired me to receive this small extemporary one, and eatwithout any respect, or shyness of those that were present;for thereby he should understand tha t I liked it. Ianswer'd tha t the Favour and Courtesie which his H igh-ness shew'd me was sufficient: but as for eating, the timebeing now past, I did it onely to obey him ; and so, tocomply with him, although I had little will to eat, I tastedlightly here and there of those fruits and herbs, where-with my Han d was a little soiled, which upon occasionI wiped with my handkerchief, being2 they use no otherTab le-linnen, nor had any laid for me. The King, seeingthat I touched not the Rice, spoke to me several times to

eat of it, and to pour upon it som e of that butter whichstood by it prepared. I did not, because I would notgrease my self, there being no Spoon ; for the Indians eatevery thing with the Hand alone and so do the Portugals;I know not whether as having learnt so to do in India ofthe Indians, or whether it be their own natu ral custom ;but they too, for the most part, eat with the Hand alone,using no spoon, and tha t very ill-favouredly ; for with thesame Hand, if need be, they mingle together the Rice, theButter, the Carll3 and all other things how greasie soever,daubing themselves up to the wrist, or rather washing theirHands in the ir meat before they eat i t ; (a fashion indeedsufficiently coarse for people of Europe): and though at

1 Gout is certainly not prev alent in India, even if known the re. Bysome physicians gout is attrib uted to th e eating of anim al food, andthis theory, if true, may acco unt for the exemption of natives of Indiafrom the disease.

- Fo r since ; see ante, p. 28, note.3 See ante, p. 328, note 1.



33° A BARBAROUS CUSTOM.

their Tables, which are handsom e enough, there wa nt not

knives, spoons and silver forks, and some few som etimesmake use thereof, yet the universal custom is such thatfew use them , even when they lie before them . The truthis they wash their H ands many times during one dinner,to wit as often as the y grease them , but they wipe themnot first; for neither do they make use of napkins, whetherthey have any before them (as for the most pa rt they have)or no t; but, besides the trouble of washing so often, in myjudgment there is but little neatnesse in washing theirgreasy Hands after that manner; and I know not whetherthe washing cleanses, or defiles more. I, being accus-tomed to the neatness of Italy,1 could not conform toslovenliness; and, let them cover this barbarous customwith what pretence they please, either of military manners,or what else they think fit, 'tis little trouble for a civilMan to carry even in the Warr and Travels, amongstother necessary things, a spoon, knife and fork, where-with to eat handsomely. Th e Tu rks themselves, barbarousas they are, yet are so much observers of this thatamongst them there is not the meanest Souldier, but who,if he ha th not other better convenience, at least carrieshis spoon2 ty'd to the belt of his sword.

1 On this point, a curious passage from Coryat's Crudities, vol. i,p. 106, may be quoted : I observed a custom in all those Italiancities and towns, through the which I passed, that is not used in anyother country that I saw in my travels, neither do I think that anyother nation of Christendom doth use it, but only Italy. The Italians,and also most other strangers that are commorant in Italy, do alwaysat their meals use a little fork when they cut their meat. Then hedescribes how they use the fork and continues : The reason of thistheir curiosity is because the Italian cannot by any means endure tohave his dish touched with fingers, seeing all men's fingers are notalike clean. And then he proceeds to tell how he himself adoptedthe custom, and, when he made use of his fork in England, was called Furcifer by his friends.

2 This is not the custom among the Turks at the present day.



EATING 1 LA MODE. 331

In short the King frequently urg'd me to eat of theRice, and I as often refused with several excuses ; at lasthe was so importunate tha t I was fain to tell him I couldnot eat that meat in that manner because I had not myInstruments. The King told me I might eat after myown way and take what Instruments I would, whichshould be fetch'd from my House. I reply'd divers timesthat there was no need, and that my tasting of it wasenough to testifie my obedience. However by all meanshe would have what was necessary fetch'd from my House.So I sent my Brachman and my Christian Servant withmy key, and they, the King so enjoyning, went andreturn'd in a moment, for my House was directly overagainst the Palace. They brought me a spoon, a silverfork and a clean and fine napkin, very handsomely foldedin small p la its ; this I spread upon my knees which it

cover'd down to my feet, and so I began to eat Rice,pouring the butter upon it with a spoon, and the otherthings with the fork, after a very cleanly manner, withoutgreasing my self, or touching any thing with my Hands, as'tis my custom. The King and all the rest admir'd theseexquisite, and to them unusual, modes ; crying out withwonder Deuru, Deuru, that I was a Deuru, that is a great

Man, a God, as they speak. I told the K ing that for eatingaccording to my custom there needed much preparationof a table, linnen, plates, dishes, cups and other things ;but I was now travelling through strange Countries, andtreated my self "alia Soldatesca", after the Souldiers'fashion, leading the life of a Gioghi, and consequently hadnot with me such things as were necessary. The Kinganswer'd that it suffic'd him to see thus much, sincethereby he easily imagin'd how all my other things wouldbe, and that, in brief, he had never seen any Europeanlike me, and that it was a great contentment to him tosee me. He desir'd me several times to eat more, perceiv-



33 2 OUESTIOXS AND ANSWERS.

ing that I rather tasted of things to please him than tosatiate my self. H e caus'd divers other Fru its, pickledwith Vinegar and Salt, to be brought me by a Womanwho came from the inner rooms through the little Cou rt;as also for my drink (in a cup made likewise of Palm -leaves1) a kind of warm Milk, to which they are accustom'd,and which seem'd to me very good.

XIII.—Both before and after and whilst I was eating Ihad much discourse with the King , who enterta in'd me,sitting there, above two long hours ; but, not remembring itall, I shall onely set down some of the most remarkableparticulars. He ask'd me concerning our Countries, allthe Christian Princes, with the other Moors and PaganPrinces whom I had seen ; concerning the power andArm ies of each and their G randeur in comparison ofothers.2 On which occasion I told him tha t amongst us

Christians the prime Prince was the Pope, my Lord, theHead of the Church and the High-Priest, to whom allothers gave Obedience ; the nex t was the Em peror, indignity the first of Souldiers, or secular Pr ince s; tha t thefirst Nation was France; and that for Territory andRiches Spain had m ost of a ll ; with m any other circum-stances too long to be rehearsed. Which discourse led me

to tell him, as I did, tha t the K ing of Portugal, as theycall him, that is the King of Spain, so much esteem'd inIndia, pay'd Trib ute to our Lord the Pope for the King-dom of Naples, which he held of His Holiness in homage ;for which he had a grea t conceit of the Pope. As to theMoorish Princes I said concerning the Mogkol,3 whom hemuch cryed up to me, that we held him indeed for therichest in treasure, but otherwise had greater esteem of theTurk and the Persian, because, though the Moghbl hath an

1 See ante, p. 294, note 7.- T h e usual exchan ge of questions and answ ers which compose the

small-talk of an Oriental visit'1 (Burton, Coa, etc., p. 179).3 See ante, p. 4S. note 2.



SHAH ABBAS. 33 3

infinite num ber of people, and, without doubt, more thanothers, yet they were not people fit for war ; and that theScidk,1 am ong the rest, did not value him at all, as mani-festly appear'd in the late war.

As to Scidh Abbas the King profess'd to account him agreat Prince, a great Souldier and a great Captain ; and Irelated to him how I had been for a great while togethervery familiar with him, and that he had done me manyfavours, having me with him on divers notable occasions :whereto he answer'd that he did not doubt it, and thatbeing such a person as I was there was no Prince butwould highly favour me. H e ask'd me also concerningthe commodities of our Countries and of those which arebrought from thence into these Oriental parts ; and (being2

that in India they are accustom'd to the Portugals, who,how great Personages soever they be, are all Merchants,

nor is it any disparagement amongst them ) he ask'd mewhether I had brought from my Country any thing tobarga in withall, either Pearls, or Jewels, for he knew verygood ones came from thence ? I answer'd him that inmy Country the Nobles of my rank never practis'd Mer-chandize , but onely used Arm s, or Books, and that Iaddicted myself to the latter and meddled not with theformer. He ask'd me how I was supply'd with Money formy Travels in so remote Countries ? I answer'd tha t Ihad brought some along with me and more was sent mefrom time to time by my Agents, either in Bills, or in readyMoney, according as was most expedient in referenceto the diversity of places. He ask'd me whether I hadeither a Father, or a Mother, Brothers, or Sisters, Wife, orChildren remaining by that Wife, who, I said, was pass'dto a better life ? I answer'd tha t I had no t; whereuponhe said it was no wonder then that I pleas'd myself in

1 That is, the Shah of Persia. See ante, p. 150.2 For since ; see ante, p. 28, note.



33 4 HORSE DEALER S.

wandering thus about the World, being so much alone anddes titute of all kindred. And, indeed, the King did not illinferr; for had any of my dearest Relations been living, asthey are not, perhaps I should not have gone from home,nor even seen Mane/, or Olala; but since 'tis God's Will tohave it so I must have patience.

The King told me that if I could procure a good Horseout of my Country he would pay very well for it, for theIndians have none good of their own breed1; and the goodones they have are brought to them either from Arabia, orPersia, and the Portugal* make a Trade of carrying themthither to sell, even the greates t Persons, as Governours ofplaces and Captains General, not disdaining to do thesame. I, stand ing upon the point of my Italian Nobility,which allows not such th ings, answer'd the King tha t tosell Horses was the Office of Merchants, not my profes-

sion ; that I might present some good one to his Highness,there being in my Country very good ones, and wouldgladly do it if it were possible. The King was muchpleas'd with this Answer of mine and said to his Menthat I spoke like a right Gentleman, plainly and truly;and did not like many, who promise and say they will domany things, which afterwards they perform not, nor are

able to do.H e ask'd me concerning Saffron,'2 which is much esteemed

among them ; they use it, mix'd with Sanders,3 to painttheir foreheads withal,4 as also for Perfumes, for Meats,

1 Sir R. Burton (Goa and the Blue Mountains, p. 174) says, Araband other valuable horses cannot stand the climate . See also Yule'sCathay, vol. i, p. 219 ; and ante, p. 194, note 5.

2 It is curious that the saffron plant {Crocus sativa), though a

native of Greece and Asia Minor, should be known (and was so, evenin the time of Cha ucer) by a name derived from the A rabic wordsafra, to be yellow .

3 See ante, p. 99, note 2.4 See ante, pp. 75, 99 (note 1), 104 (note 2 j and 105.



A WHITE SKIN. 335

and for a thousand other uses. I answer'd that I mightbe able to serve his Highness, that it was a thing thatmight be transported ; and that in my Country there wasenough, and that, if it pleas'd God I arrived there alive, Iwould send him a Present of it, with other fine things ofmy Country, which perhaps would be acceptable to him.And indeed, if I arrive in Italy, I intend to make manycom pliments to this and divers other Princes, whom Iknow in these parts ; for, by what I have seen, I may getmyself a great deal of Honour amongst them with nogrea t charge. Eve ry now and then the King would talkwith his Servants, and all was in commendation of meand my discreet speaking, and especially of my whitecomplexion, which they much admired, although in ItalyI was never counted one of the fair, and, after so manyTravels and so many sufferings both of Body and Mind, I

am so changed tha t I can scarce acknowledge my self anItalian any longer. H e prayed me once with muchearnestness and courtesie, (out of a juvenile curiosity) tounbrace one of my sleeves a little and my breast, that hemight see whether my body were correspondent to myface. I laughed, and, to please him, did so. W hen theysaw th at I was whiter under my clothes (where the Airand Sun had not so much injured me) than in the facethey all remained astonished and began to cry out againtha t I was a Deurii, tha t I was a Hero, a god, and tha tblessed was the hour when I entered into their House, (Itook my self to be Hercules, lodged in the Country ofEvander1) and the King, being much satisfied with mycourtesie, said that he knew me to be a Noble Man by mycivil compliance with his demands; that if I had beensome coarser person I would not have done so, but, per-haps, have taken ill, and been offended with, their curiousQuestions.

1 See Virg., ALtieis, Lib. viii, 100 et seq.



33° UNRIPE COCONUTS.

XIV -— As for the Ceremonies of eating, 1 must not omit

to say that after he saw tha t I had done eating, notwith-stand ing his man}- instances to me to eat more, he wascontented tha t I should make an end ; and because mostof the meat remained untouch'd, and it was not lawful forthem to touch it, or keep it in the House , they caused myChristian Servant to come in and carry it all away (thathe might eat it); which he did in the napkin which I hadus'd before ; for to fling it away, in regard of the dis-courtesie it would be to me, they judged not convenient.At length, when I rose up from my seat and took leave ofthe King, they caused my said Servan t to strew a littleCow-dung, (which they had got ready for the purpose)upon the place where I had sat, which, according to theirReligion, was to be purified. In the mean time, as I wastaking leave of the King, he caused to be presented to me,

(for they were read}- prepared in the Chamber) and de-livered to my Servants to earn- home, four Lagm',1 (so theyin India, especially the Portngals, call the Indian Nutsbefore they be ripe, when, instead of Pulp, they contain asweet refreshing water which is drunk for delight; and ifthe Pulp (for of this water it is made) be begun to becongealed yet tha t little is very tender and is eaten withmuch delight and is accounted cooling ; whereas when itis hard and full}' congealed, the Xut, remaining withoutwater within and in the inner part somewhat empty, thatmatter of the Nut which is used more for sauce than toeat alone is, in my opinion, heating, and not of so goodtaste as before when it was more tender). Of these Lag/it'he caus'd four to be given me, besides I know not how

1 The name Lanha is applied on the Malabar coast to thecoconut when ripe but still soft. Som etimes they gat her thecocoa fruit before it comes to perfect matu rity, and then it is calledLanho. (Mandehlo)



AN ENERG ETIC QUEEN . 337

many great bunches of Moid, 1 or Indian Figs, which,though a small matter, are nevertheless the delights of thisCountry; wherefore as such I received them, and, thankingthe K ing for them, (who also thank 'd me much for myvisit, testifying several times tha t he had had verygreat contentment in seeing me) at length taking myleave I de pa rte d about an hour, or little more, beforenight.

XV .— I intended to have visited the Queen also at thesam e time, bu t I understood she was gone abroad, whilstI was with her Son, to the before-mention'd place of herW orks. Wherefore, being desirous to make but little stayin Mattel, both tha t I might dispatch as soon as possible,and, withall, not shew any dis-esteem of the Queen by visit-ing her not only after her Son but also on a differentday, I resolv'd to go and find her where she was, although

it were late; being also persuaded so to do by thatBrachman to whom I gave my Sword when I went to eat,and who sometimes waited upon the Q ue en ; and therathe r because they told me she was little at home, but,rising at break of day, went forthwith to her W orks andthere stayed till dinner; and as soon as dinner was donereturn'd thi ther again and remain'd there till night. By

which action I observ'd something in her of the spirit ofSciah Abbas King of Persia? and concluded it no wonderthat she hath alwayes shew'd herself like him, tha t is,active and vigorous in actions of war and weighty affairs.Moreover they said that at night she was employ'd a goodwhile in giving Audience3 and doing Justice to her Sub-jec ts ; so that it was better to go and speak to her in

1 So spelt in original. A misp rint for mons. See ante, p. 327.2 De scribed in Letter IV from Persia.3 It is a common practic e with princes and chief landow ners in

India to give audiences and transact business at night, in consequenceof the heat prevailing while the sun is above the horizon.



338 A MESSAGE TO THE QUEEN.

the field, while she was viewing her Workmen, than in the

house.Accordingly I went and, drawing near, saw her standingin the field, with a few Servants about her, clad as at theother time, and talking to the Labourers that were diggingthe Trenches. W hen she saw us she sent to know where-fore I came, whe ther it were about any business ? Andthe Messenger, being answer'd that it was onely to visither, brought me word again that it was late and time to goho m e; and therefore I should do so, and when she camehome she would send for me. I did as she commanded,and return'd to my house, expecting to be call'd when shethought fit; but she call'd not for me this night, the causewhereof I attributed to her returning very late home, as Iunderstood she did.

December the sixth. I understood that the Queen wasgone abroad very early to her Works, before I was up,without sending for me. Wherefore, desiring to dispatch,I sent the Brachman, my Interpreter, to her, to remind herthat I desir'd to do her Reverence, having come into herCountry onely for that purpose, and to know when shepleas'd the time should be. The Brachman gave the Mes-sage, and she answer'd tha t I should not wonder a t this

delay, being1

that she was employ'd all day at those works;but, however, she would send for me when she came home.She ask'd the Brachman m any questions concerning m e ;and, because some of her people extolled me much, andparticularly for Liberality, saying that 1 had given somuch for a House, so much for H ens, so much for o therthings, she, wondering therea t, said, Do we here toil andmoil so much for Sifano? (which is a small piece of Money)and does he spend in this manner ?" The Brachman re -

1 F or since ; see p. 28, note.2 Or fanam, of which the value varie s in different localities from

lkd. to 15^. (See Yule's Cathay, etc., vol. ii, p . 344.)



DEVIL-WORSHIP. 339

turned with this Answer, and I waited all this day for theQueen's sending, but in vain.

In the mean while, not to lose time, I went to see aTemple at the end of the Town, standing on a high placeand reached by some ill-favour'd st ai rs ; they told me itwas dedicated to Naraina} yet it is very ill built, likethe rest of the Edifices, being cover'd with Palm-leavesfor the roof; and , in short, such as suited with such aTown. Then, descending the street which leads to theneighbouring River, I saw likewise upon another Hill alittle square Chappel, which, instead of walls, was inclosedwith pales of wood and cover'd with a roof. My inter-prete r told me it was built by this Queen, and tha t therewas in it an Idol dedicated to the Devil, to whom, out oftheir fear of him, th at he may do them no evil, thesewretched people do reverence. I, hearing of a thing so

stra nge though not new to my ears, said I would go seeit, that I might affirm with truth I had with my own eyesseen the Devil worship'd. The Bracliman, my Interpreter,dissuaded me as much as he could, alledging tha t manyDevils dwelt in tha t place and might do me some mis-chief. I told him that I was not afraid of the Devil, whohad no power over me ; that himself needed to fear him aslittle as I ; and therefore I desired him to go along withme cheerfully. When he saw me resolute he accompany'dme to the foot of the Hill and shew'd me the way; but itwas not possible for me to get him further; he remain'dat a distance and said he would by no means approachnear tha t place, for he was afraid of the Devil. W here -fore I went forward alone and said, If that Caitif, the

1 See p. 236, note 1. Fro m Nara and Ayana, mo ving on thewater . See Sir W . Jon es' Asiatic Researches, who thus quotesfrom the Mdnava Shdsira : Th e waters are called ' N ara ' since theyare the offspring of A'era, o r Ishwar, and thence was Narayana namedbecause his first ayana, or mov ing, was on them.''

Z 2



34 0 STATUE OF THE DEVIL.

Devil, could do anyth ing , let him hu rt m e ; for I was his

En em y and did not value him ; and tha t if he did not itwas a sign he had no power. Speaking thu s and invok-ing the Nam e of Jesus, (at which Heaven, Ea rth andHell ought to bow the knee) I mounted up the Hill, and,being come to the Chappel, and finding nobody there , Iopened the door and went in.

I saw the Idol s tand ing in the middle upon the plainground, made of white unpolish'd stone, exceeding ahuman statu re, and not of tha t shape as we pain t theDevil, but like a handsome Young Man,1 with a high roundDiadem upon his Head after their fashion. From eachArm issu'd two Hands, one of which was stretch'd out, theother bent towards the body. In the anterior right Handhe had a kind of weapon, which, I believe was one of thoseIndian Ponyards of this form2 J i B i * * - of which I

keep one by me. In the anterior left Hand he had a roundthing which I know not what it was, and in the other twoHand s I cannot tell what. Between the Legs was anotherSta tue of a naked Man with a long beard, and his Handsupon the ground, as if he had been going upon them likean Animal; and upon this Image the Devil seem'd to ride.On the right Hand of the Idol was a great trunk of a

Tree, dead but adhering to the root, low and seeming tobe the remains of a great Tree tha t had grown there. Iimagine that this T ree was the habitation of the Devils,who are wont to be in this place, and to do much mis-

1 This was probably a figure of a Daitya, or Demon, though itmight be intended to represent Siva as The Destroyer . The round thing held in one hand was probably intended for a skull, or

for a discus, or quoit, which is sometimes represented as held bySiva. See ante, p. 72, note.- The sketch is intended to represent a form of dagger common in

India. The shaded part represents the blade, the two horizontal linesform a guard for the wrist, the two vertical lines being handles graspedby the hand.



BRIMOR AND MAHADEO. 3 4 I

chief; to remedy which the Queen founded this Chappel

here and dedicated this Idol to Briiubr,1

(which they sayis the name of a great Devil, King of many thousands ofDevils) who dwelt here. Th e same conjecture was after-wards confirm'd to me by others of the Country, allconfessing that it was Buto,2 i.e., the D ev il; for so theyterm him in their Language.

When I had seen all, and spit several times in the Idol'sface, I came away and return'd home, upbraiding theBrachnian with his Cowardice, and telling him that hemight see whether my Religion were good or no ; since sopowerful and fear'd a Devil could not hu rt me when I wentto his very house and did him such injuries. W hereuntothe Brachman knew not what to answer.

Concerning Idols they told me at Mattel that theQueen of Olala and all her Family, as 'twere upon anHereditary Account, ador'd and held for her principalGod an Idol call'd Putia Somnataf which they said wasthe same with Mahadeii ̂ and which they delineated alsoas of a round figure, like the little pillar5 of a Land-mark,circular at the top after th is manner j | , as I have else-where noted that they pourtray Mahadeii in Cambaia, andthe Sun in other places.

The same day, December the sixth, being return'd homebefore noon I took the Altitude of the Sun at Manel

1 A local deity, of whom hundreds are worshipped in their respec-tive villages.

2 That is, Bhuta, a malevolent spirit, or gho st. Dem on worship isstill common on the S.W. coast of India, particularly among- theS M na rs (palm cultivators) of Tinneve lli. Fo r a theory as to itsorigin, and an accoun t of the ceremon ies conn ected with it, see SirM. Williams' Modern India, p. 195 et seq.

3 A title of Siva. Literally, Lord of the Moon .4 See ante, p. 72, note. Literally G rea t God .5 T hi s was , of course, a Lingam, the usual emblem of Siva. See

atite, pp. 93, 100, 208 and 235.



342 AN IMPERTINENT CONCEIT.

with an Astrolabe. I found him to decline from the Zenith

35 degrees; he was this day in the fourteenth degree ofSagittary. H is Sou thern Declination was 22 degrees30' 24 , which subtracted from 35 degrees, (the Altitudewhich I took) leave 12 degrees 29' 36 , which is theDeclination of the Êquinoctial Southwards from theZenith of Mantl, and also the height of the Northern Polein tha t place. So that Manel, where the Queen of Olalanow resides, lies 12 degrees 29' 36 distant from theÊquinoctial towards the North.

At night, having waited all the day and not hearing ofthe Queen's sending for me, as she had promis'd, I thoughtit not good to importune her further, but imagin'd she wasnot willing to be visited more by me. Wherefore I gaveOrder for a Boat to carry me back to Mangalbr the nextday. Of the Queen's not suffering herself to be visited

more by me certain Men of the Country who convers'dwith me gave sundry Reasons. Some said the Queenimagin'd I would have given her some Present, as indeedI should, which would require a requ ita l; but, perhaps, shehad nothing fit to requite me with in these wretchedplaces, or was loath to give : so tha t to avoid the shameshe thought best to decline the visit. Others said there

was no other decent place to give Audience in but th atwhere her Son w as ; and for her to come thithe r did notshew well; as neither to send for me into some other un-handsome place, nor ye t to give me Audience in theStreet, when it was no unexpec ted meeting but design'd,for which reason she avoided speaking with me. TheBrachman, not my Interpreter but the other who held mySword, had a more extravagant and (in my opinion) im-pertinent conceit, to wit that there was spread such aFame of my good presence, fairness and handsomemanner of conversation, th at the Queen would not speakwith me for fear she should become enamor'd of me and





LETTER VII .From Goa, January 31 , 1624.

N this my excursion and absence fromGoa, (which was shor t, but thepleasantest three Moneth's Travelthat ever I had) besides the Royal

Seats of Ikkeri and Mane/, describ'din my last letter to you, I had the

fortune to go as far as Calecut 1 to the other Royal Seat of

1 See ante, p. 6o, note 3. Prop erly Kah'kot . Th is well-knowntown is described by Ibn Batuta (A.D. 1342) as one of the finest portsin the world. H ere Vasco da G am a freighted his first ships forEu rop e in 1498. T he nam e is also some times written as Colicodu1',

and is said to be derived from two words, m ean ing cock-crow ,owing to the fact that the territory gran ted to th e first Kin g ofKah'kot was limited to the extent over which a cock could be heard tocrow. (See Buc hana n's Journey through Malabar, vol. ii, p. 474.)But this etymology is open to g reat doubt. It seem s m ore probablethat the derivation is as stated at p. 258, note 2. Th is town occupiesan imp ortant place in the history of Sou thern Ind ia. In 1502 and1510 it was a ttacked by the Por tugu ese. (See Commentaries of Dal-boquerque, vol. 11, pp . xxi an d lxiv.) A fortified factory was built h ere

by the Portuguese in 1513 (see Commentaries of Dalboquerque,vol. iv, p. 7 3;, which was des troyed by the Po rtug ues e G overn or in1525, in fear of its falling into the han ds of the enem y. In 1616 anEn glish factory was established here . It was take n by Hai da r Ali in1766 (see Wilks' History of Maisnr, vol. i, p. 292), bu t was occu piedby the B ritish forces in 1782. (See W ilks , vol. ii, p. 27.; It was sub-



KADIRI. 345

Vikira, 1 call'd by his prope r Title, il Samorino? where I have

erected the Pillars of my utmost peregrination towards theSou th. Now on my Ret urn , before I describe to you the

Court of this Samorino and his Princesse s, following th e

order of my Journeys I shall first inform you of my going

to the famous H erm ita ge of Cadiri, s and visiting Bati-

natof call'd Ki ng of th e Gioghi? who lives at this day

sequently taken by Tipu Sahib, but recaptured by the British in 1790.(See Wilks, vol. ii, p. 180.) The surrounding territory was ceded tothe British Government in 1792. The town is said to have been builtabout A.D. 1300 (see Eastwick's Handbook of Madras, p. 297, andHunter 's Gazetteer, sub verb.), but an earlier date (A.D. 805) isassigned to it by D 'Anville. For an account of Kalikot as it is (andthe adjacent country), see Sir R. Burton's Goa and the Blue Mountains,chaps, x and xi. See also Barbosa, p. 103 et seq. (Hakluyt ed.).

1 Or Mana Vikrama, "valiant", the dynastical name of the Tdmurinsof Kalikot, and said to be derived from Manicham and Vikram, twoof the brothers on whom dominion was originally conferred.

2 Properly Tamurin. See ante, p. xxiii. Th is word is said by someto be a modification of the Sans krit word Saniunri, or Sea-king",and is one of the titles by which th e kings of Kalikot were knownin former days, sometimes spelt "Zam orin" or "Zomodri", or"Zamorine" and (by Ibn Batuta) Samari". The death of the lastindependent "Zamorine", in 1766, by self-immolation, owing to thecruelty of Haidar Ali, is described by Forbes (Oriental Memoirs, vol.iv, p. 207) and by Wilks {History of Maisiir, vol. i, p. 292.) By his

own people th e King was called Tamuri Raja". His family pre-tended to far higher rank than even that of the Brahinans. He wasof the Nair" or Nayar" race. In Ibn Batata's Travels there is anaccount of his honourable reception (A.D. 1342) by the Samari" (orKing) of Kalikot. (See Yule's Cathay and the Way Thither, vol. ii,p. 416. See also Comm. of Dalboquerque, vol. i, p. 1.)

' J The hill of Kadiri is about two miles distant from Mangaliir. Onit is a Jain temple and (which is probably the Herm itage" here men-tioned) the residence of a Ma/iant, or Abbot, of th e Kdnphattis (Split-ears), a sect of Hindu ascetics, distinguished by their split ears. It isa pretty spot, shaded with trees, and rich in a spring of the clearestand most delicious water. (See Eastwick's Handbook of Madras,p. 302.)

4 Probably Bhdt Ndth, or Lord of the Bhats". See p. 80, note 1."• See ante, p. 37, note 5.



346 THE KING OF THE JOGIS.

in his narrow limits of that Hermitage, impoverish'd by

Venk-tapa Naieka,}December the tenth. Being yet in Mangalbr I took theAltitude of the Sun, whom I found to decline from theZen ith 35 degrees and 20 minutes. H e was now in the18th degree of Sagittary and declined towards the South 22degrees 55' 28", which being subtracted from the 35 de-grees 20' wherein I found him, there remain 12 degrees24' 32", and so far is Mangalbr distant from the Êquinoc-tial towards the North and hath the Northern Pole somuch elevated. A t this time the heat at Mangalbr is suchas it is at Rome in the moneth of June, or the end of A ugust.

On December the eleventh I went in the Morning abouthalf a League from Mangalbr to see the Hermitage, wherelives and reigns the Archimandrita% of the Indian Gioghi,whom the Portugals (usually liberal of the Royal Title)style " King of the Gioghi", perhaps because the Indiansterm him so in their Language ; and in effect he is Lord ofa little circuit of Land, wherein, besides the Hermitageand the habitations of the Gioghi, are some few Houses ofthe Country people and a few very small Villages subjectto his Government. Th e Herm itage stands on the side ofa Hill in this manner.

II.—On the edge of the Plain, where the ascent of theHill begins, is a great Cistern, or Lake, from which ascend-ing a flight of stairs, with the face turn'd towards the North,you enter into a Gate, which hath a cover'd Porch, and isthe first of the whole inclosure, which is surrounded with awall and a ditch like a Fort. Havin g enter'd the said Gate,and going straight forward through a handsome broad

Walk, beset on either side with sundry fruit trees, youcome to another Gate, where there are stairs and a Porchhigher than the former. Th is opens into a square Piazza,

1 See ante, p. 168. 2 Or chief of a Monastery.



THE HERMITAGE. 347

or great Court, in the middle whereof stands a Temple ofindifferent greatness, and for Architectu re like the o therTemples of the Indian Gentiles; onely the Front lookstowards the East, where the H ill riseth higher, and theSouth side of the Temple stands towards the Gate whichleads into the Court. Behind the Tem ple, on the side ofthe Court, is a kind of Shed, or Pent-house, with a Charriotin it, which serves to carry the Idol in Procession uponcertain Festivals.1 Also in two, or three, other places of theside of the Court, there are little square Chappels for otherIdols. On the North Side of the Court is another G ateopposite to the former, by which going out and ascendingsome steps you see a great Cistern, or Lake, of a long formbuilt abou t with black stone, and stairs leading down tothe surface of the wa ter; in one place next the Wall 'tisdivided into many little Cisterns, and it serves for the

Ministers of the Temple to wash themselves in and to per-form their Ceremonies.

The Gate of the Temple, as I said, looks Eastward,where the Hill begins to rise very high and steep . Fromthe Front of the Tem ple to the top of the Hill are longand broad stairs of the same black stone,2 which lead up toit, and there the place is afterwards plain. W here the

stairs begin stands a high, strait and round brazen Pillar,3

ty'd about in several places with little fillets ; 'tis about 60Palm s high, and one and a half thick from the bottom tothe top, with little dim inution. On this Pillar are plac'dabout seventeen round brazen wheels, made with manyspokes round about like stars : they are to support the

1 See ante, p. 259, note 4.2 Prob ably laterite. See Eastw ick's Handbook of Madras, p. 303,

and Burton {Goa and the Blue Mountains, p . 191), who says : " La teri teis found in great quantities."

3 Th is pillar is not me ntioned in mo dern desc riptions of th eTemple.



348 TEMPLE OF THE IDOL.

lights in great Festivals, and are distant about three Palms

one from another. Th e top term inates in a great brazenCandlestick of five branches, of which the middle-most ishighest, the other four of equal height. T he foot of thePillar is square, and ha th an Idol engraven on each side :the whole struc ture is, or at least seems to be, all of onepiece.

The Temple, to wit the inner part where the Idolstands, is likewise all cover'd with brass. Th ey told me tha tthe walls of the whole Inclosure, which are now cover'dwith leaves, were sometimes covered w ith large pla tes ofbrass; but that Venk-tapa Naieka carry'd the same awaywhen, in the war of Mangalbr, 1 his Army pillag'd all theseCountr ies : which whe ther it be true, or no, I know not.The walls of a less Inclosure (wherein, according to theircustom, the Temple stands) are also surrounded on the

outside with eleven wooden rails up to the top, distant oneabove the other little more than an Architectura l Palm2;these also serve to bear Lights on Festival occasions;which must needs make a brave Show, the Temple therebyappearing as if it were all on fire. This Temple is dedi-cated to an Idol call'd Moginato? Of what form it is Iknow not, because they would not suffer us to enter in to

see it.III.—Having view'd the Temple I ascended the Hill by

the stairs, and passing a good way forward on the topthereof came to the habitations of the Gioghi4- and theirKing ; the place is a Plain, planted with many Trees, under

1 See ante, p. 314.2 Probably the Italian measure, or Palmo, is here referred to,

equal to about nine inches. Th e mea sure of a " Palm " may also b eunderstood as equal to about 8 | inches (length of a han d), or 3 inches(breadth of a hand).

3 Probably another title of Parasnath, the idol worshipped here.(See Eastwick's Handbook of Madras, p. 303.)




TH E KING'S HOUSE. 34 9

which are rais'd many very great stone pavements, a littleheight above the ground, for them to sit upon in theshade. The re are an infinite num ber of little squareChappels with several Idols in them and some placescover'd over head, but open round about, for the Gioghi toenterta in themselves in. And, lastly, there is the K ing'sHouse , which is very low built. I saw noth ing of it, (andbelieve it is noth ing more) but a small Porch, with wallsround about, colour'd with red1 and painted with Elephantsand other Animals,2 besides in one place a wooden thinglike a little square bed, somewhat rais'd from the ground,and cover'd with a cloth like a T e n t; they told' me it wasthe place where the King us'd to reside and perhaps alsoto sleep. Th e King was not here now, but was gone to aShed, or Cottage, in a great plain field, to see somethingdone, I know not what.

The soil is very good, and kept in tillage; where it isnot level, by reason of the steepness of the Hill, 'tisplan ted with goodly Trees, most of which bear fruit; and,indeed, for a He rmitage so ill kept by people tha t know nothow to, or cannot, make it delightful, it seem'd to me suffi-ciently handsome. I believe it was built by the Kings ofBanghelz whilst they flourish'd, for it lies in their Terri-

tory, and that the place and the Seigniory thereof wasby them given to the Gioghi; and, as they had no Wives,

1 See ante, p. 235, note I.2 There is a curious resemblance between the description of the

temple at Kddiri, here given by P. della Valle, and that of the Jaintemples at Muda Biddari (about thirty miles from M angalur) given byEastwick {Handbook of Madras, p. 303). In this latte r desc ription ,

the pillar, the little chapels, and the figures of animals, mentioned byDe lla Valle, are all referred to, whereas these features are all a bsen tfrom the description of the Tem ple at Kad iri. Th ese features arenot mentioned in Hunter's Gazetteer, or in Buchanan's Joztmey throughMalabar in the description of Kddiri,

3 See a?ite, p. 212.



3SO THE JOGIS.

the Dom inion of th is H erm itag e and the adjacent La nd

goes not by Inheri tance but by Elect ive Succession.1

I thought to f ind abundance of Gioghi here, as in ourCo nven ts , bu t I saw not abov e one, or tw o; and the y toldme they resort not together, but remain dispers 'd here andthere as they list , or abide in several places in the Templeswh ere th ey please, nor are subject to their K in g in pointof obe dien ce, as ours are to their Sup erior, bu t one ly dohim R everence and H o n o u r ; and a t cer tain so lemn timesgrea t n um bers of them assemble here , to whom dur ingtheir s tay the K in g supplies Victuals . In the H erm itag el ive m an y S erv an ts of his and La bo ure rs of the Ea rth ,who t il l these L an ds , w hereb y he gets P rovisions. T he ytell me th at w hat he possesses within and w ithout theH erm itag e yields him ab ou t five or s ix thou san d P ago ds2

yearly, the greatest part whereof he expends in Feasts ,and th e rest in diet, an d in w ha t is needful for the ord ina ryService of the T em pl e and his Id ol s; and tha t Venk-tapdNaiekcP had not yet taken tribute of him, but ' twas fearedhe wou ld hereafter.

IV .— A t length I we nt to see the K in g of the Gioghi,and found him employed in his business after a mean sort ,l ike a Pe asa nt, or Villager. H e was an old m an w ith a

long white beard, but strong and lusty ; in either ear hungtwo balls,4 which seem ed to be of G old, I kno w no tw heth er em pty , or full, abo ut th e b igne ss of a M usk et

1 As to the Hind u monastic orders, see Elphinsto ne's Hist, of India,p. 103, who says : " The power of the h ead s of thes e sects is one of themost rem arkable innovations in the Hind u system. Man y of the min the South have large establishments, supported by grants of land

an d contribution s from their flock." See also Bu cha nan 's Journeythrough Malabar,vo\. i, p. 21. Th e rule of Elective Succession h ereme ntioned is a fertile grou nd of dispu te an d conseq uent: litigation inIndia . See Re ports of Judicial Comm ittee of Privy Council passim.

- See ante, p. 209, note 1. » See ante, p. i68.4 See anre, p. 195, note 1.



CONVERSATION WITH TH E KING. 35 T

bullet; the holes in his ears were large, and the lobesmuch stretched by the weight; on his head he had a littlered bonnet, such as our Galley Slaves wear, which capsare brought out of Europe to be sold in India with goodProfit. From the girdle upwards he was naked, only hehad a piece of cotton1 wrought with Lozenges2 of severalcolours across his shoulders ; he was not very dark, and,for an Indian of colour, rather white than otherwise. H eseemed a man of judgment, but upon trial in sundrythings I found him not learned.

H e told me that formerly he had Horses, Elephants,Palanchinos and a great equipage3 and power before Venk-tapa Naieka took away all from him, so that now he hadvery little left. Tha t within twenty days after there wasto be a grea t JFeast in that place, to which many Gioghiwould repair from several par ts ; tha t it would be worth

my seeing, and that I should meet one tha t could speakArabick and Persian, and was very learned, who couldgive me satisfaction as to many things ; and, extolling thequalities of this Gioghi, he told me that he had a verygreat Head, (to signifie the greatness of which he made agreat circle with his arm s) to wit of hair, ruffled and long,and which had neither been cut nor combed a great while.4

I asked him to give me his Name in writing, for myMemory, since I was come to see him. H e answer'd me,(as the Orientals for the most part do to such curiousdem ands) " To what purpose was it ? and, in fine, hewould not give it to me; but I perceiv'd 'twas through avain and ignorant fear that it might be of some mischief

1 In original, bombace. See p. 249, note.- Or cheq uered. In original, Scacchi.'•' See ante, p. 268, note 6.4 As to the value of a good head of hair, see Sir J. Lubbock's Origin

of Civilisation, p. 66 et seq. The flm/iwan ascetics shave thehead,



3 5 2 RETU RN TO MANGALUR.

to him.1 Nevertheless at my going away, I was told byothers that he was call'd Batinato*; and that the Herm itageand all the adjacent places is call'd Cadird?

V.— Having ended my discourse with the King I cameaway, and, at the foot of the Hill, without the first gate ofthe Herm itage, rested to dine till the hea t were over, inthe House, or Cottage, of one of the Peasants, (there beinga small Village there) whose Wife set before us Rice,Caril,4 and Fish, which themselves also eat, being of a Raceallow'd so to do. W hen the hea t was past I return'd, fairand softly as I went, to Mangalbr; and arriv'd at home agood while before night.

December the e ighteenth. I p repar'd myself to go toCarnate" to see th at Queen whose Te rritory and City is,as I have said elsewhere,6 two, or three, Leagues distantfrom Mangalbr, upon the Sea-coast towards the North.

Th e City stands upon a River which encompasses it, andover-flowes the Country round about. It was wont to bevery strong both by Art and situation ; but, during thewar of Mangalbr] Venk-tapci Naieka, coming with a greatarm y to subdue and pillage all these Countries, sent forthis Queen to come and yield Obedience to him. TheQueen, who, as I have heard, is a La dy of much Virtue

1 As to this widespread belief see Sir J. Lubbock's Origin ofCivili-satioti, p. 248 et seq., from which the following short extract is herema de : " In o ne of the des patch es intercep ted dur ing our war withNepal Gouri Sah sent orders 'to find out the name of the commanderof the British arm y, write it on a piece of paper, and burn it. '" Evenin the present clay, am on g civilised natio ns, a certain am oun t of im-propriety is attached to the mention of a person's name on particularoccasions. In Ind ia no m arried wom an will willingly men tion herhusband's name.

2 See ante, p . 345, note 4. 3 Properly Kddiri.4 See ante, p. 328, note 1.6 See ante, p. 168, note 1, and p. 314. Carnate does not appear in

modern maps. Form erly called Carcdra and Carndti. (See Yule'sCathay, etc., vol. ii, p. 451.)

6 See ante, p. 300. ? See ante, p. 314.



THE QUEEN OF CARNATE. 353

and Prudence, being unwilling to render herself to Venk-tapd, summoned her Captains together, told them that shewas ready to spend and give them all the Money and Jewelsshe had, and not to be wanting on her part to exert herutmost power, if they would prepare themselves to defendthe Sta te. But these Ministers, either through Cowardice,or Treachery, would not attem pt a defence. Whereuponthe poor Queen, who as a Woman could do little by her-self, (her Son also being very young) seeing her peopledisheartned, resolv'd by their advice to surrender herself toVenk-tapd Naieka; and accordingly prepar'd to go to himwith a good Guard of Souldiers. Hear ing which he sentto her to come alone without other company than herAttendants; which she did, not voluntarily but constraintthereto by her hard Fortune and the treachery of others.Venk-tapd receiv'd her honourably and took her into his

Friendship and Protection ; but withall he caus'd the Cityto be dismantled of the strong W alls it had, to preventher rebelling against him afterwards, and left her, as before,the Government of the State, tying her onely to Obedience,the paym ent of a Tr ibu te, and the profession of anhonorable Vassalage to him.

W hen they dismantled the City the Queen (they say),

unable to endure the sight, retir'd into a solitary place alittle distant, cursing in those her solitudes the Pusillani-mity and Infidelity of her own people, no less than thebad fortune and weakness of the Portugals her de-fenders, to whom she had been always a Faithful Friend.At this time she lives with her young Son, either in Car-nate, or some other place there-abouts.

VI.—Being mov'd by the Fame of this Queen's VirtueI was desirous to go and do her Reverence; for whichpurpose I had got a Palanchino ready and Men tocarry me thither. But on the morning of the aforesaidday there put into Mangalbr a Fleet of Portugal Ships,

A A



3 5 4 T H E SAM ORl'S EMBASSY.

which they call " Farmata del Canard", because it coasts

along the Province of Canard1

; or else "I'artnata dcllaColletta";1 for th at it is maintained with the Money of a newImpost, imposed and collected by the Portugals in theirIndian Planta tions. The Chief Captain of this Fleet wasSig: Luis de Mendoza, a principal Cavalier, or Fidalgo,3 (asthey speak) young but of very good par ts. The Captainof one of the Ships was S ig : Ayres de Siqueira Baraccio,formerly my Friend at Goa, whom I waited for, tha t Imight return thither in his Ship. W hereupon hearing ofhis arrival I went to seek him, and finding him alreadylanded I understood from him th at this Flee t was to go toCalecut, in order to carry thither two Men of the SainorifKing of Calecut (Samori is- a Title given to all those K ings,like our Emperour, or Ccesar) which Men he had a littlebefore sent to Goa in the same Fleet, in another Voyage

which it had made upon those Coasts, to treat with theVice-Roy about a Peace, (for he had been many years,if not at War, yet at enmity with the Portugals) sayingthat if the Vice-Roy inclin'd to Peace he would after-wards send Ambassadors with more solemnity and treatof Articles.

Now these Men were returning to Calecut with the Vice-

Roy's Answer, and Sig: Ay res said tha t the Flee t woulddepart from Mangalbr the same night, yet would returnshortly, because the Chief Captain had Orders not to stayat Calecut above four and twenty hours, onely till he hadlanded these Men and understood what resolution theSanion gave in Answer, without giving him more time tothink thereupon, and that in returning the Fleet wodld touchat Mangalbr and all the other Ports of that Coast, to take

1 See p. 168, no te 1.- I.e., " collection" or " subsidy".3 Or ' 'Hidalgo", from the Spanish Hijo de algo, or "son of some-

body". 4 See ante, p. 345, note 2.



MONTE DELI. 355

with them the Merchant Ships laden with Rice, (which

were prepar'd, or preparing) and convey them according

to their custom to Goa, where, by reason of scarcity of

Provision, they were much desir'd. Hearing this News I

was loath to lose the opportunity of seeing Calecut, (the

King whereof is one of the most famous among the Gentile

Princes of India, and is likely to be at Peace but a little

while with the Portugals) and therefore resolved to go

aboard the Ship of Sig: Ayres the same day, putting off

my Journey to Carnate, whither I had hopes to go on myreturn. Accordingly, dismissing the Palanchino and the

Men that were to carry me, together with the Servant I

had taken at Barselbr (because he was not willing to go

further with me) I went aboard alone without any Servant,

assuring myself I could not want attendance and whatever

else was needful in the Ship, wherein I found Sig: Mansel

Ley ton, Son of Sig: Gio: Fernandez Ley ton} embarqu'd as aSouldier (which course of life he was now first enter'd

upon), besides many other eminent Souldiers, who were

afterwards very friendly to me, and with whom I spent

many days in good conversation.

VII.— December the nineteenth. We departed from

Mangalor, and were foremost of all, because our Ship was

Captain of the Vantguard.2

This day we pass'd by a highHill, inland near the seashore, call'd Monte Dell z; and the

1 See ante, p. 168 et seq. 2 From the French avant.3 A remarkable, partially isolated, mountain and promontory on the

coast, in about L a t 12" N .; the proper northern boundary of Malabar.Called also Cavo de Eli", Monte d'lli", Monte de Lin , Montede Li , Mount Delly" or Dilla", and Ras Haili", by writers ofvarious nationalities. Of this eminence, Barbosa (? Magellan) says(Lisbon ed ition): It serves as a beacon for all the ships of the Mooreand Gentiles that navigate the sea of India." See Sir H. Yule'sCathay and the Way Thither, vol. ii, p. 452. As to this place, SirR. Burton {Goa and the Blue Mountains, p. 189) says : "Vincentacutely guesses Ela Barake (near Nelisuram) to be the spot near

A A 2



356 MALABAR FAROES.

next day (December the twentieth) by another, call'd

Monte Fermoso. 1 At night we anchored under Cananor,-

but enter 'd not the Port, having sail'd from Mangalbr hither,

always Southwards, eighteen Leagues.

December the one and twentieth. Once in the morning

and once in the evening we met with Paroes, 3 which are

very light Ships of the Malabar Rovers, of which this

Coast was full 4 ; for at Mangalbr ends the Province of

Canard and that of Malabar begins. We made ready our

Arms both times to fight them, but they fled from us and

regained the mouths of the Rivers, whereof that Coast is full,

where, by reason that it was their own Territory and well

guarded in those narrow and difficult places, we could not

pursue them to take them ; onely we discharg'd some

Guns against them at a distance to no purpose, which were

answer'd from the Land with the like. We might easily

have attempted if not to take that one which we saw inthe Evening, yet at least to shatter it from afar off with

our Cannon, if the Chief Captain had not that regard to the

Land they regained, which belong'd to the Samorl? to

whom, on account of the Peace in agitation, he was willing

to have respect. At night we came to Anchor under

Calecut? which is twelve Leagues Southwards beyond

Cananor?

Cananore, called by Marco Polo Eli, and by us Delhi, the RuddyMountain of the Ancients. It derives its present name from acelebrated Moslem/r^vV, Mahommed of Delhi, who died there. ItsHindoo appellation is Wymullay. No stress should be laid on theresemblance between Mount 'Delhi1 and the ' Eld Barake of thePcriplus. The identity of the two places rests, how ever, on goodlocal evidence.7 But Sir H. Yule is doubtful as to this.

1 Probably a name given by the Portuguese to this mountain.

- More correctly Kananur. See infra, note 7.3 See ante, p. 201, note 2. * See ante, p. 201, note 1.6 See ante, p. 345, note 2. « See ante, p. 344, note 1.7 Or Kananur. At one time a large city, in 11° 52' N . Lat., supposed

to be the same as the town called Jurfattan" by Ibn Batuta, and



NEGOTIATIONS WITH THE SAMORI. 3 5 7

December the two and twentieth. Ea rly in the morningthe Samori's two Men landed at Calecut, and with them aPortugal comm on Souldier, but well clad and attended,whom the Chief Captain sent to the King with the Vice-Roy's Answer, viz. : Tha t the Vice-Roy was contented totreat of a Peace and would gladly conclude it; but oncondition that the Samorl made Peace too with the Kingof Cocin} the Portugals' confederate, whom it was not fit toleave out of the said Peace, and the rather because thegreatest differences between the Portugals and the Samorlwere touching the King of Cocin, whom the Portugalsjustly defended as their faithful Friend, and had alwayes,to the damage of the Samorl, his perpetual Adversary,much supported; that if the Samorl were contented tomake Peace with both he should send his Ambassador toGoa with power to tre at of the conditions, and they should

be receiv'd very well. W ithin a short time the Portugalreturn'd to the Fleet; for the City of Calecut stands uponthe shore and the Samori's Royal Palace2 is not far off:and together with the Portugal the Saniori sent to theChief Captain a Portugal Boy, eight or ten years old, call'dCicco, who in some Revolutions of Cananbr had beentaken Prisoner and was brought up in his Court; he senthim well cloth'd, and accompany'd not onely by many

" Jarabattan" by Edrisi, and perhaps the "Harrypatan" (for Jaripatan)of Fe rish ta in Briggs, iv, 53 2; the residence of the King called" Kowil", one of the most powerful in M alabar. (See Yule's Cathayand the Way Thither, vol. ii, p. 453.) The Portuguese had a fort herein 1505. It was tak en by H ai da r Ali in 1768, and by the British in1783, and is now the military capital of Malabar and Kdnara, and hasa fort b uilt acc ording to regu lar rules. (See Eastw ick's Handbook ofMadras, p. 300, and Hu nter's Gazetteer, s. v.)

1 See ante, p. 199, note 1.2 Th is was probab ly the ancien t palace, of which only two pillars

and a portico now remain. (See Eastwick's Handbook of Madras,p. 297.)



358 THE SAMORI'S ARTIFICES.

persons but also with Pipes and Drums, that he might

visit the Chief Captain in his Name and give him a Presentof Refreshments to eat, namely Indian Figgs, Lagne1 andother fruits.

His Answer to the proposal was that the Peace shouldbe first made between himself and the Portugals, andafterwards the interests of the King of Cocin should betaken into consideration ; and desiring the Chief Captainthat he would vouchsafe to stay awhile till he had advis'dwith his Ministers and deliberated about sending Ambassa-dors to Goa in the same F le e t; with other reasons, whichwere judg'd to be rather excuses to put off the time and holdthe Portugals in a Treaty of Peace, till some very rich Shipswhich he expected from Mecha2 were return'd, lest thePortugals should molest them at Sea, than real intentionsfor a Peace, especially with the King of Cocin, with whom

he had long and intricate disputes not so easily to be ter-minated. The Portugals also demanded that the Samoriwould remove a Garrison which he had plac'd on certainfrontiers, where they, for their own security and the defenceof the King of Cocin, were fain to keep a Fort continually,with a great Garrison and at much expense; and becausehe show'd not much inclination thereunto it was, not with-

out cause, judg'd that his Treaties were Artifices to holdthe Portugals in suspense; wherefore the Chief Captain sentword that he had express Orders from the Vice-R oy notto stay longer at Calecut than twenty-four hours, and solong he would s ta y : and, if w ithin tha t time the Samori


- So spelt in the original, but proba bly a misp rint for Mucha (seeante, p. 1, note), as Mek kah is not a seapo rt. Mucha (or Mokha) isalmost identical with Muza of the Periplus. See Heeren's Histori-cal Researches, vol. ii, p. 302, wh ere an inte res ting accoun t of theancient commercial traffic on the W. coast of India will be found,and also in Appendix XI of same vol., and Smith's Ceog. Diet., s. v,



THE CHIEF CAPTAIN'S REPLY. 35 9

came to a resolution in accordance with the Vice-Roy's

Proposition, he would carry his Ambassador with a goodwill; otherwise he intended to depart the nex t night, allthe intermediate day being allowed his Highness for deter-mination.

W ith this Rep ly he sent back the boy Cicco, honoringhim with some small Presents, and the other Men thatcame with him, without sending any of his Portugals forthis purpose, or going ashore to refresh himself andvisit the Samori, as he was by him invited ; the Vice-Royhav ing given him secret Instructions not to trust him toofar, because these Kings, or Samori, had never been veryfaithful towards the Portugals. Nevertheless the Chief Cap-tain forbad not any Souldiers to land th at were so minded,so that many of them went ashore, some to walk up anddown, some to buy things, and some to do other business ;

as also many people came to the Fleet in little boats,partly to sell things, and partly out of curiosity to see thePortugals, who on account of their almost continual enmitywith the Samori, seldom us'd to be seen in Calecut.

VIII.—The same day (December the two and twentieth),whilst we were aboard in the Po rt of Calecut, I took theSun's Altitude with my Astrolabe and found him to de-

cline at Noon from the Zenith 34 degrees and 50 minutes.The Sun was this day in the thirtieth degree of Sagittary;whence, according to my Canon of Declination, which Ihad from F- Fra Paolo Maria Cittadini, he declined fromthe Êquinoctial towards the South 23 degrees and 28minutes, which, according to that Canon, is the greates tDeclination; if it be not really so the little that iswanting may be set against the period of four hours, ifnot more, that Noon falls sooner at Calecut than in anyMeridian of Europe, according to which my Canon ofDeclination may be calculated, so tha t, if from the 34 degrees50 minutes in which I found the Sun to be you subtract



3 . NATIVE DRESS.

the 23 degrees 28 minutes which I presuppose him to de-

cline from theÊquinoctial towards the South, the remainderis 11 degrees 22 minutes, and so much is the elevation ofthe North Pole in this place ; and, consequently, the Cityof Calecut lies 11 degrees 22 minutes dis tan t from theÊquinoctial towards the North.1

After Dinner I landed also with the Captain of myShip and some other Souldiers ; we went to see the Bazarwhich is near the sh ore; the Houses, or rather Cottages,are built of Earth and thatched w ith Palm-leaves, beingvery low ; the Streets also are very narrow, but sufficientlylong; the Market was full of all sorts of Provisions andother things necessary to the livelihood of that people,conformably to their Custom ; for as for clothing theyneed little, both Men and Women going quite naked,saving that they have a piece either of Cotton, or Silk,hanging down from the girdle to the knees and coveringtheir shame2; the better sort are either wont to wear it allblew, or white strip'd with Azure,3 or Azure and someother colour; a dark blew4 being most esteem'd amongstthem . Moreover both Men and W omen wear their hairlong5 and ty 'd about the head ; the Women with a lockhanging on one side under the Ear becomingly enough

as almost all Indian Women do; the dressing of whose

1 It is somewhat singular that in four modern authorities (East-wick's Handbook, Black's Atlas, Brooke's Gazetteer, and the LondonEncydopcedid) the la titude of Calicut is given as n ° 15', 10° 11',11° 12', and 11" 18', respectively.

2 One end being tucked up between the legs. In Arrian 's Indica,cap. xvi, the dress of the natives of India is similarly described.

3

From the Arabic lazurd, " blue", of which the initial " 1 wasdropped by mistake. (See Imperial Dictionary, sub verb.)4 In original, turchino. See ante, p. 253, note.5 This is contrary to the more usual custom of shaving the head.

(See Elphinstone's Hist, of India, p. 183, and Quintin Craufurd'sSketches of the Hindoos.)



HAIR DRESSING AND ORNAM ENTS. 36 1

head is, in my opinion, the gallan test that I have seen inany other nation.1 Th e Men have a lock hanging downfrom the crown of the head, sometimes a little inclin'don one side; some of them use a small colour'd head-band, bu t the Women use none at all. Both sexes havetheir Arms adorned with bracelets, their ears with pen-dan ts, and their necks with Jew els2; the Men commonlygo with their naked Swords and Bucklers, or other Arms,in their hands, as I said of those of Balagate?

IX.—The Inhabitants of the Kingdom of Calecut andthe In-land parts, especially the better sort, are all Gentiles,of the Race Nairi4 for the most part, by professionSouldiers, sufficiently swashing5 and brave. But the SeaCoasts are full of Malabari, an adventitious people,6

though of long standing; for Marco Polo, who writ four

1 " Loveliness when unad orned is still adorn ed the most." T he ele-ga nt simplicity of the Hind u m ode of haird ressin g was, no doub t, apleasin g con trast to the artificial mon strosities adop ted by the ladies ofEurope in those days.

2 Mr. Elphinstone {Hist, of India, p. 183) says : "B ot h sexes wearm any orn am ents. Men even of the lower orders wear earrin gs,brace lets and nec klaces. Th ey are sometim es worn as a convenientway of keep ing all the m oney the owner has. Children are loaded

with gold orna m ents, which gives frequent temp tation to child-mur-der." It is a comm on sight in Ind ia to see children thus loaded whowear no clothes whatever.

3 See ante, p. 226, and p. 185, note.4 Properly Nayar. See ante, p. 232, note 4.5 In the original, bizarri. As to the Nairs, or Nayars, and their

ways, the following authorities may be referred to, viz.: Barbosa'sEast Africa and Malabar, Hak luyt ed it, p. 101 et seq.; Sir R. Bur-ton's Goa and the Blue Mountains, pp . 215 to 232 ; W ilks' Hist, ofMaisur ; and Buchanan's Journey through M alabar ; and the Reportof the Government Commission, referred to ante, p. 218, note 2.

6 Th e na m e is written " M alavari" in the original Italian. Th eywere probably Arabs, who had crossed the Indian Ocean ; " Moorsof Me kkah ," as they are called by Barb osa (? M agellan), Coast of EastAfrica and Malabar, p. 102.



3 6 2 THE CITY DESCRIBED.

hundred years since, makes m ention of the m1 ; they live

confusedly with the Pagans, and speak the same Language,but yet are M ahomm etans2 in Religion. From them allthat Country for a long tract togethe r is call'd Malabar?famous in India for the continual Robberies committed atSea by the Malabar thieves4; whence in the Bazar ofCalecut, besides th e things above mention'd, we saw soldgood store of the Portugals' commodities, as Swords,Arm s, Books, Clothes of Goa, and the like Merchandize,taken from Portugal Vessels at Sea; which things, becausethey are stolen and in regard of the excommunicationwhich lies upon us in that case, are not bought by ourChristians. Having seen the Bazar and stay'd there tillit was late we were minded to see the more inward andnoble pa rts of the City and the outside of the King'sPalace ; for to see the K ing at that hour we had nointention, nor did we come prepar'd for it, but were in thesame garb which we wore in the Ship.

Accordingly we walk'd a good way towards the Palace,for the City is great, and we found it to consist of plotsset with abundance of high Trees, amongst the boughswhereof were a grea t many wild monkeys, and withinthese close Groves stand the Houses, for the most part at

a distance from the common W ayes, or St re et s; theyappear but small, little of their outsides being seen ; besideslow walls made of a black stone5 surround these Plotsand divide them from the Streets, which a re much betterthan those of the Bazar, but without any ornament of

1 See M. Polo's Travels, vol. iii.2 This is not correct as to all the inhabitants of Malabar, many of

whom (and probably the majority) are Hindu s. Barbosa (? M agellan)estim ates tha t th e " Moors", or M uh am m ad ans , formed a fifth partonly of the population of Malabar.

3 A misapprehen sion. See ante, p. 121, not e 4.4 See ante, p . 201, note 1. 6 Probably laterite.



TH E SAMORI'S PALACE. 3 6 3

Windows, so that he that walks through the City maythink that he is rather in the midst of uninhabited Gar-dens than of an inhabited City. Nevertheless it is wellpeopled and hath many inhabitants, whose being con-tented with narrow Buildings is the cause that it appearsbut small.

As we walked in this manner we met one of those menwho had been at Goa with the V ice -Roy ; and becausehe saw many of us together and imagin'd there wassome person of qua lity amongst us, or because he knew,our Chief Captain, he invited us to go with him to the King'sPalace, and, going before us as our Guide, conducted usthither. H e also sent one before to advertise the King ofour coming, and told us we must by all means go to seehim, because his Highness was desirous to see us and talkwith us. Wherefore, not to appear discourteous, we were

constrain'd to consent to his Request, notwithstanding theunexpectedness of, and our unpreparedness for, the visit.

X.—The first and principal gate of the Palace opensupon a little Piazza, which is beset with certain very greatTrees affording a delightful shade. I saw no Guard be-fore i t ; it was great and open ; but before it was a row ofBalusters,1 about four or five palm s2 from the ground, whichserv'd to keep out not only Horses and other Animals butalso Men upon occasion. In the middle was a little flightof Stairs, outside the Gate, leading into it, and anotherwithin on the o ther side. Yet, I believe, both the Stairsand the Balus ters are movable, because 'tis likely tha twhen the King comes forth the Gate is quite open;otherwise it would not be handsome, but this is only my

1 Usually, but incorrectly, written as "b an iste rs". Th e word"baluster" is derived from the Latin word palus, "'a pole", accordingto Webster (see Dictionary, s. v.\ or from Balaustium, the flower ofthe wild pomegranate, according to the Imperial Dictionary.




364 cicco.

conjecture. W e enter'd this Ga te, ascend ing the Stairsabove the Rails, where we were met by the Messengerwhom the above-said person had sent to the King andwho again invited us into the Palace by the King's Order.W ithin the Ga te we found a great Court, of a long form,without any just and proportionate figure of Architecture;on the sides were many lodgings in several places, and inthe middle were planted divers great Trees for shade.The King 's chief apartm ent, and (as I believe by what Ishall mention hereafter) where his Women were, was atthe end of the Court, opposite to the left side of theEn trance . The Edifice, in comparison of ours, was oflittle consideration ; but, according to their mode, bothfor greatness and appearance capable of a Royal Family.It had a cover'd porch, as all their structu res have, andwithin that was a door of no grea t largeness leading into

the House.Here we found Cicco the Portugal youth,1 become an

Indian in Habit and Language, but, as himself told us,and as his Portugal Name,2 which he still retain'd amongthe Gentiles, demonstrated, no Renegade but a Christian ;which I rather believe, because the Indian Gentiles admitnot nor care to admit other strangers to their Religion, as

I have elsewhere noted3

; for, (conjoyning so inseparately,so to speak, as they do, their Religion to the Races ofMen) as a Man can never be of other Race4 than what hewas born of, so they also th ink th a t he neithe r can, norought to, be of any other Religion, although in Habit,Language and Customs he accommodate himself to thepeople with whom he lives. W ith the said Cicco we found

1 See ante, p. 357.2 The re seem s to be room for some doubt as to the n am e being

a Portuguese n ame ; chikka in the v ernacular being " youn g" or" small'1. See ante, p . 315, note 3.

3 See ante, p. 80, and note 2. 4 Or caste. See p. 77, note 4.



TW O PRINCESSB:S. 365

many others of the King's Courtiers who waited for us,and here we convers'd with them a good while before theGate, expecting a new message from the King, who, theytold us, was now bathing himself, according to their custom,after supper. Nor was it long before an Order came fromthe King for us to enter, and accordingly we were intro-duced into that second Gate ; and passing by a close roomlike a chamber, (in which I saw the Image of Brahma onhis Peacock,1 and other Idolets) we enter'd into a littleopen Court, surrounded with two rows of narrow and lowCloysters,, to wit one level with the ground and the othersomewhat higher. Th e pavement of the porch was alsosom ething raised above the plane of the Court, so muchas migh t serve for a man to sit after our manner. TheKing was not in this small Court, but they told us wemust attend him here, and he would come presently.

Whereupon we betook ourselves to sit down upon thatrais'd pavement in the Porch, the Courtiers standing roundabout us ; amongst whom, the Portugal Cicco and anotherIndian Man (who, as they said, was a Christian and, beingsometime a slave to the Portugals, had fled hither forLiberty and was entertain'd in the King's guard) serv'dus for Inte rpre ters, but not well, because the Man spokenot the Portugal Tongue so much as tolerably, and Cicco,having been taken when he was very young, rememberedbut little of his own Language.

XI.—No sooner were we seated in this place than twogirls about twelve years old enter'd at the same Gatewhereat we came in : they were all naked, (as I said above,the W omen generally go) saving tha t they had a verysmall blew cloth wrap'd about their waists, and their Arm s,Ears and Necks were full of ornaments of Gold and veryrich Jewels. Th eir colour was somew hat swarthy, as all




36 6 SUCCESSION TO THE THRO NE.

these Natives are, but, in comparison with others of thesame Country, clear enough; and their shape no less pro-portionable and comely than their aspect was handsom eand well favour'd. Th ey were both the Daughte rs, asthey told us, of the Queen, that is, not of the King but ofhis Sister who is styl'd, and in effect is, Queen ; for asthese Gentiles derive the ir descent and inheritance by theline of the Women,1 though the Government is allowedto Men as more fit for it, and he that governs is call'dKing, yet the King's Sister, and amongst them, (if therebe more than one) she to whom, by reason of Age, or forother respects, the right belongs, is called, and properly is,Queen, and not any Wife, or Concubine, of the King whohas many. So also when the King (who governs uponaccount of being Son of the Queen-Mother) happens todie his own Sons succeed him not, (because they are not

the Sons of the Queen) but the Sons of his Sister; or, indefect of such, those of the nearest kinswomen by thesame Fem ale line. So tha t these two Girls, whom I callthe Nieces of the Samori, were right Princesses, or Infantas,of the kingdom of Calecnt.

Upon their entrance where we were all the Courtierspresen t shew'd grea t Reverence to them ; and we, under-

standing who they were, arose from our seats and, havingsaluted them , stood all the time afterwards before thembare-headed. For want of Language we spoke not tothem, because the above-said Indian slave had retir'd to adistance upon their coming, giving place to other morenoble Courtiers: and Cicco stood so dem urely by us tha the durs t not lift up his eyes to behold them , much lessspeak; having already learnt the Court-fashions and goodmanners of the place. Nevertheless they talked much to-gether concerning us, as they stood, and we also of them,

1 See ante, p. 218, and note 2.



THE KING OF CALECUT. 367

and all smil'd without understanding one another. One ofthem, being more forward, could not contain herself, but,approaching gently towards me, almost touch'd the Sleeveof my Coat with her hand, making a sign of wonder to herSister how we could go so wrapp'd up and entangled inClothes as we seem 'd to her to be. Such is the power ofCustom that their going naked seem'd no more strangeto us than our being cloth'd appear'd extravagant tothem.1

After a short space the King came in at the same door,accom pany'd by many others. He was a, young Man ofthirty, or five and thirty, years of age, to my thinking ; ofa large bulk of body, sufficiently fair for an Indian andof a handsom e presence . He is call'd (as a principalCourtier, whom I afterwards ask'd, told mej by the propername of Vikird? H is beard was somewhat long and worn

equally round about his Face; he was naked, having onelya piece of fine changeable3 cotton cloth, blew and white,hanging from the girdle to the middle of the Leg. Hehad divers bracelets on his Arms, pendants at his Ears,and other ornam ents with m any Jewels and rubies ofvalue. In his Hand he carry'd a painted staff, (if it werenot an Indian Cane) like a Shepherd's Staff, upon which,fixed in the earth, just as Shepherds are represented in ourComedies, he stood leaning for a while.

When he was saluted by us he receiv'd us smiling andwith much courtesie ; and whilst his two Nieces stood byhim, leaning against a high bank made to sit upon, westood in order in the Court just before the King, the whole

1 This is a mistranslation. It should be, "just as their going naked

seemed strange to us, so our being clothed appeared extravagant tothem."2 See ante, p. 345, note 1.3 The term " changeable" is used to denote the quality of altering

its external appearance in the m anner of "shot silk". Shakespearespeaks of " a doublet of changeable taffeta".



36 8 MODE OF SALUTA TION.

Court and Porches being full of other Courtiers who camein, partly with the King and partly by some other littleentrances. I will not omit to mention the manner howthose who entered saluted the K ing ; for I saw more thanone do it, and particularly a Youth who enter'd a goodwhile after the King by one of those little Gates; to whomin particular the King spake much, and of whom heseemed to make grea t account. In his salutation headvanced his joyned Hands over his Head, then, partingthem a little so extended and exalted, he smote themlightly together twice, or thrice, to wit the palm ofone hand with the four longest Fingers of the otherjoyned together; which whole action he repeated twice,or thrice. Such as had weapons lifted up their joynedHands above their Heads, with their Swords, Ponyards,Bucklers, or other Arms, in them ; and, instead of striking

with their Fingers, as by reason of their Arms theycould not, they bowed down their Hands so conjoynedand made the points of their Swords touch the ground.1

No less full were the higher Cloysters round of the Womenwho stood there to behold us; amongst whom stoodapart in the most eminent place the Queen, Sister tothe King , a W oman of ripe Age, cloth'd in blew Cotton

as to her lower parts and abundantly adorned withJewels.-

1 Th e time-worn phrase, quot homines tot sententicc, might bewritten as quot ho/nines tot salutationes. Fo r an acco unt of some of theman y forms of salutation prevailing am ong different peoples, see SirJ. Lubbock's Origin of Civilization, p. 35 ct seq.

- A similar scene is describ ed by Captain Ha milton in his travels,and he describes the Queen and her daugh ters as being " all nakedabove the waist and barefooted". Sir R. Burton (Goa and the BlueMountains, p. 179), quoting this passage , says : "T w o hund red yearsago the white man was allowed to look upon a black princess in thepresence of her husba nd. How long will it be before such privilegewill be extended to him again in India r



INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. 369

XII.—The King, desiring to talk with us, caused theyouth Cicco to draw near and afterwards called for theIndian Slave above mentioned ; because Cicco, either outof excessive Reverence, or because he had forgotten thePortugal Tongue, durst not undertake to interpret. H easked our Captain who he was, and how called ? TheCaptain would not confess himself to be Captain of a Ship,and so become known, but, counterfeiting another Name,said he was a private Souldier and Companion to the restof us, which the King seemed not to believe. He enquiredlikewise concerning the other Souldiers pre sent; and,above all, very particularly concerning me, pointing outthe pendant which I wore in my Ear,1 almost like theirCustom of India, and looking upon me for it with somewonder, as a thing which he knew to be not usual amongthe Portugals; whereupon I told him who I was, to wit

of what Country, and something I said briefly concerningthe curiosity2 of my Travells ; that I had run through somany Countries onely to see the world, and was at lengthcome to his Court, being no Portugal, but one of Rome, adifferent and remote Nation from Portugal; with all whichhe seem'd well pleas'd.

He bid us several times put on our Hats, but our

Captain, whose exam ple 'twas fit for us to follow, beingresolv'd not to make himself known, not onely would notdo it, but refus'd it both by gestures and words, which Iliked not we ll; for, shaking his Head and smiling, heanswer'd that he would not, that they should not cause

1 See ante, p. 195.Qj

This word cnriosita may refer either to the natural inauisitivenesswhich led to our author's travels, or to the apparent strangeness of anEu rop ean coming so far without any app aren t object in view exceptthe gratification of his curiosity.

B B



37O TH E CAPTAIN'S COU RTSH IP.

him to commit that false Latine,1 what ever else he did ;

that indeed it was not a thing to be jested at, with othersuch gallantries : he conceiving, as I believe, tha t hereinconsisted all the punctuality- of this Audience on his part,so that none of the rest of us cover'd himself; but it wouldnot have been ill done, if the favour had been shown withbetter Answers than by saying, as the Captain did twice, orthrice, (with greater Courtship, as he thought) that it washot, and therefore he would not put on his Hat , which hissmiling betray'd to be but an excuse ; though he con-cciv'd he thereby shcw'd himself an excellent Courtier."

Then the King began to speak to our Captain (whom hewell pcrceiv'd to be the Chief of the company) concerningthe Peace, yet saying no more than what he had signifi'dto our Chief Captain ; and desiring him to perswade theChief Captain not to depart so soon from Calecut, but tostay till he had consulted better with his Ministers andhad time to give a be tter and more determ inate Resolu-tion. The Captain answer'd cunningly that these mattersdid not belong to him, who was a private Souldicr andwas come thither onely to see the City and the Palace,whither he had been unexpectedly invited by his High-ness ; that as to the Peace, it was to be treated of with the

Chief Captain, who had already answered his Highness as

1 Or " Latinism " or " Latinity". Th e word is used generally toexpress an antiquated mode of expression ; and hence also to denotean impropriety of behaviour, just as the word "solecism" wasoriginally used to deno te m erely an imp ropriety of lang uag e, but isnow more generally applied to an act of social misbehaviour.

- This word is here used in its old sense of punctilio, though it

now is more often used to denote accuracy in regard to time only.3 See Hamlet (Act v, Sc. 2):" Hamlet. Your bon net to its right use ; 'tis for the he ad." Osric. I thank your lordship, 'tis very hot." Hamlet. Xo , believe me, 'tis very cold ; the wind is nor the rly." Osric. It is indifferent cold, my lord, indeed."



TH E KING AND TH E ARQUEBUSE. 37 1

far as he could, according to the Orders given him bythe Vice -Roy ; nevertheless, in obedience to his H igh -ness, he would deliver this Message to him in the Even-ing.

The King saw that a Souldier of ours had one of thoseArquebuses1 which the Portugals call Baccamarti? whichare very short, of a large bore and with a Flint-lock afterthe English fashion. He asked to have it brought to himto look upon ; whereupon a Courtier, taking it out of theSouldier's Hand, reach'd it to the King, not giving it intohis Hand (for 'tis not lawful for them to touch a thing atthe same time as the King) but, because it would neitherhave been handsome to have lay'd it down on the groundfor the King to take up, therefore he took this Course.He set the but-end of the Arquebuse upon the ground ata little distance from the King, and then, giving the muzzle

a gentle cast from himself, made it fall into the Handsof the King who held them ready for tha t purpose. Th eKing tak ing the Arquebuse in his hand, presently shookthe powder out of the pan upon the ground, lest anydisaster should befall him, (for he perceived it was charged)then, lifting it up to his Eye, he looked through the sight,shewing the reby tha t he was a good marksman, as theytold us afterwards he was. He look'd much upon theFlint-lock as a thing unknown to them, for their Guns have

1 From the French arquer, " to m ake crooked," and bus or biichse,a Teutonic word for a pipe, or tube (see Webster's Dictionary). Or(according to the Imperial Dictioiiary) from the German haken, ahook, or forked rest from which it was fired. T he nam e is som etimeswritten " Haqu ebut", " Hackbut", and " Hagbu t". Such arms wereused up to th e time of the Civil W ar in En gla nd , when they weresupe rsede d by a lighter weapon without any rest. (See Ga rrard 'sArt of War, and Meyrick's work On Armour.)

2 So in ori gin al; but it should perhaps be boccomarti, a kind ofblunderbuss, or large-mouthed firearm,

B B 2



372 KINGS ARE KINGS.

onely matches1; and, being2 he seemed much taken with thispiece, I told the Captain it would be handsom e to presentit to him, and indeed had it been mine I should willinglyhave given it to him. The Captain spoke to the Souldicr,who, incapable of such noble thoughts, answered tha t hewould give it to the King if he might have forty Piasters11

for it, which was twice the value, so that the King notoffering to buy it, nor the Captain offering to lay out somuch money in order to present it to him, the pleasuringhim therew ith was waved ; nor was it otherwise offeredto him, as in my opinion Civility required. Neverthelessthe King never let it go out of his Hand so long aswe were with him. Afterwards he shewed us a littleParro t standing in an open Cage under the porch ; heendeavoured to cause it to speak in our presence ; andbecause our Interpreters were not very good he sent to

call an eminent Servant of his, who spoke the PortugalTongue better, to come and interpret in this conversa-tion.

XII I .—The Signori Portoghesi my Companions, littleaccustomed to Prince's Courts, though otherwise well bred,gave me occasion to laugh within myself at two things.The first was that, it appearing to them unhandsome that

the King stood all the while he discoursed with us, as hedid, or, at most, leaned onely agains t the wall on his staff,the_\- took upon themselves to speak to his Highness ,asking him to sit down and not put himself to suchtrouble. I disswaded the C aptain from it by all means,

1 Matchlocks were used in Eu rop e also up to the end of thesixteenth century.

- For " since"; see p. 28, note 1.3 From the Italian piastra, a thin p late of me tal. T h e coin had

different values in different count ries. The Po rtuguese piastra wasequivalent to about 4^. of E ngl ish mon ey.



SUSPICION OF THE PORTUGALS. 37 3

because Kings are Kings, and sit, or stand, when theyplease and do what they lis t; 'tis their par t to comm and ;nor are we to use those Compliments with them which wedo to our equals, but always leave them to their own willand pleasure , for this is the behaviour of the Court. Butmy counsel prevailed little, for the Captain was resolvedto speak and to desire him to sit down, as he did, not once,but twice or thrice ; of which nevertheless the King madelittle account and answered onely with a smile.

The second thing tha t made me laugh was that, whenthe King enter'd into the little Court, the door, whereat heand we had enter'd before, was immediately made fast withan Iron Bar, people also standing continually to guard it;and so likewise when anyone came in, or was sent out bythe King, it was presently shut with diligence. Th eCaptain and the other Portugals did not like this shutting

of the door and began presently to mutter amongst them-selves and to suspect that the King intended to detain themprisoners there, or to put some trick upon th em ; and askedwhat would the Chief Captain and others say in Goa for theircoming to p ut themselves in a cage thus, without the orderand leave of their Chief Captain, onely upon meer curiosity ?I advis'd them to be quiet, telling them that it was not be-

fitting a King to do such an act, nor was there any occa-sion why the King should be so treacherous ; tha t we werenot so many, nor so considerable, tha t the doing thereofwould be of any profit to him, or damage to the PortugalNa tion. Tha t it was fit the doors should be shut whilstthe K ing was there in tha t manner, giving Audience toso man y strangers toge ther, arm 'd and so little trustedby him as we were. Th at, on the contrary, he had doneus much Honour in inviting and adm itting us to hispresence with all our weapons, there being no Ambas-sador, nor publick person, or anyone so much as known



374 THE KING'S EXCUSES.

amongst us. Th is partly quieted them , although they very

ill endur'd to see themselves shut up.I told them further that it belong'd to the King to dis-miss us when he pleas'd, and that, should we be late, theChief Captain would excuse us for our delay a t least, if notfor our too great Curiosity, which yet was no high crime asthe case stood, almost all the Souldiers being come ashorethis day. Nevertheless they twice, or thrice, demanded ofthe Kin g that he would let them go, alledging that it wasalready late to return aboard, as indeed it w as; but theKing alwayes made excuses, and would not dismiss them,saying that we must stay till the Man he had sent forwas come, because he was desirous to talk a little betterwith us, and that he would send us aboard in his ownBoats at 'any time when it should be needful; for, therebeing no form'd Harbour at Calecut but an open shore, the

Ships rode at a good distance from the Land.1

XIV.—At length came the expected Interpreter, whowas a principal Brachman and a Man of great Authoritywith the K in g ; for I observed that he alone of all thatwere present leaned upon his staff as the K ing did, andhe himself said that he had sometimes treated of weightyaffairs on his King's behalf with the Portugals in the enter-

prize of Cognate? perhaps not in the days of this Samori?but of his predecessor. So that he said he was very well

1 The western coast of India souih of Goa being almost whollydevoid of bays, or harbours, is naturally dangerous for ships, especiallyin a south-westerly gale of wind. In 1781 H .M . ship Superb of 74gu ns was lost on this coast (at Telich eri). (See Eastw ick's Handbookof Madras, p. 299.)

2

It is unc ertain what enter prise is her e referred to. Bu t the nam e" Cognale" is probably meant for Koilandi, a place on the coast, notfar from Kdlikot. (See Handbook of Madras, p . 298.) T he nam e iswritten also as " Coilandy", " Coulandi", an d " Coulete". (See Yule'sCathay, etc., vol. ii, p. 454.)




CONCLUSION OF TH E INTERV IEW. 375

known to the Vice-Roy and the Chief Captains of Goaacquainted with those parts.

Upon the entrance of this Man the King call'd ourCap tain to come up to him upon the rais'd pavem ent ofthe Porch; he refused at first twice or thrice, but at lengthwas prevailed with, by the instances both of the King him-self and of this Brachman. Here the King fell largelyto discourse with him and with us about the Peace, abouthis desire to have the Fleet stay awhile longer for esta-blishing a firm Friendsh ip with the Portugals and aboutdivers other things ; many of which were the same tha the had spoken of before. In short, the Audience lastedtill night, the two little Ladies, his Nieces, being presentalmost all the time, (for they went and came now andthen) and the Queen in the Upper Cloyster; in beholdingof whom, to speak truth, I was more attentive than in

hearing all these discourses, which I well saw were oflittle importance, and therefore I cannot relate themmore punctually.1

A t length, it growing dark, upon our Cap tain's impor-tun ity the King dismiss'd us, and, the door being open'd,we were suffer'd to go forth; but first he caused manybunches of Indian Figs2 and Lagne3 to be brought and pre-

sented to us ; the Courtiers giving them to our Captainand the other Souldiers, not by stretching forth the Hand,but by tossing them in the Air, as their Custom is, Ibelieve, to avoid being contam inated by our contact. TheKing did the like when, at .our departure, he restored theArquebuse to its owner; fo'r he cast it after the samemanner into the hands of one of his Courtiers as it wascast to him, bowing himsejf almost to the ground for thatpurpose, as it was necessary to do by reason of the short-

1 See ante, p. 370, note 2.2 See ante, p. 327, note 1, and p. 337.3 See ante, p. 336, note 1.



376 PRESENT OF A PIG.

ness of the piece. These Ceremonies of not being

touch'd and the like, of which in publick dem onstra tionthey are so rigorous, yet in secret, and when they please,they do not exactly observe; and 'twas told us of thisKing that he is a great drinker of Wine, though rigorouslyprohibited by his Religion, and that he hath sometimeseaten and drunk at the same Table with Portugals veryfamiliarly ; and that he is a Man of very affable humourand a great friend to a jovial life, which also his carriagetowards us demonstrated.

Besides the Lagne and the Figs, which he appointedsome of his Servants to carry for us even to the Boats, hegave our Captain a wild Pig alive, which he caus'd to bebrought from some inner rooms of the Court, and, beingty'd with a Rope, to be carried likewise to the Sea-side,whither he also sent many and some of the principal ofhis Courtiers to accompany us. A little after us he sentagain to the Chief Captain one of those two Men who hadbeen at Goa, (to wit he who conducted us to the Palaceand was present at the whole Audience) to visit theChief Captain in his Name, carry him new refreshments ofFruit, and desire him not to depart so soon.

But before I proceed further, for the better understand-

ing of what I have already written, I will here present toyour view a rough and unmeasur'd ground-plan of theSamori's Palace and the place where he gave usAudience.1

1 In connection with this potentate the following extract from theLondon Gazette of May 25th, 1892, may be found to be of som einte res t:— " To be Knight Com mand er of the Most Exalted O rder of

the Star of India— M aharaja M ana Vik ram a B ahadu r, Zamorin ofCalicut. Stat nowinis umbra.'

The Zanwrins of Kalikot have been since 1792 the stipend iarie s ofthe English Governm ent. Th e Palace here referred to was probablythe same building as that in which V. da Gama was received in1498.



THE KING'S PALACE. 77

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1. The little Piazza without th e first Gate of the Palace.2. T he first Gate gua rded with B alusters.3. A gre at Court within th e first Gate, which should be longer in

proportion to the breadth, but is drawn thus in regard of the scant-ness of the paper ; it hath lodgings about it in several places.

4. The King's Ho use and the Apartment of his W omen.5. The Porch of the said Hou se.6. T h e second Gate.7. Entrance with iron bar, kept shut.8. A Door leading into the little Court.9. Several Lodgings.

10. The little Court.11. T h e place whence th e wild Pig was brought.



3 / 8 DELAY IX EMKARKINC.

12. The King, denoted in several places, according as he movedwhilst he was speaking.

13. The King's two Nieces.14. The great Man of the King who serv'd for Interpre ter.15. The Queen in the higher Cloyster.16. Our Company, with a greater number of Courtiers on each

side of us than the place allows here to be denoted.17. Our Captain at the close of the Audience and when he re-

ceived the Lague. 1

Being dismiss'd by the Samon, as is above-said, we re-

turn'd to the Sea-side to go aboard, it being now night;but because there were but two or three very small boats,in each of which not above two or three could go at a time,and in regard tha t the Sea was somewhat rough and we weremany, it came to be above one o'clock in the night beforewe all got aboard. Our Captain was one of the first, andhe went presently to give an account of what had pass'd thisday between us and the Sainori to the Chief Captain, whowas minded to depart forthwith; but, understanding thatthe Souldiers were not yet all embarqued, and particularlythe Captain telling him that I was still on shore, he gaveorder to move but slowly in expectation of me.

In the meantime the Samon s Messenger went to himto desire him to stay a little longer ; whereupon the ChiefCaptain, though he knew it would be of little importancein reference to the Treat}- of Peace, yet not to appear dis-courteous, and perhaps also on account of some expediencyin regard to our Navigation, determined to stay all thisnight in the Port of Calecut. The Messenger, returningashore with this answer, found me, alone of all the Fleet,still there, where some of the principal Nairi1 kept me corn-pan}- all the while, and left me not till they saw me in the

Boat, using much diligence to dispatch all others as soonas possible, and in the meantime, while we waited, which

1 See ante, p. 336, note 1.- See ante, p. 232, note 4.



A STRANGE CUSTOM. 37 9

was above an hour, holding me by the hand and express-ing many other caresses and demonstrations of kindnessto me.

XV.—Before I leave Calecut I shall here observe onestrange custom1 of the people of these parts. The G entileNairi have no peculiar Wives ; but all Women are com-mon am ongst them ; and when any man repairs to visitone of them he leaves his weapon at the door, which signsufficiently debars all others from entering in to dis turbhim ; nor does this course beget any difficulty, or jealousie.The Women are maintained by those men that have to dowith them . Th e children neither seek to know, nor manytimes do know, who their Fa ther is, but their descent bythe Mother is alone considered, and according to th at allinheritances are transferred. The same rule is observedam ong Princes and their Wives, the Queens, who are the

King's Sisters, being used to marry other neighbouringKings, and to go into the ir State s to have children, whoare to succeed in the Kingdom s of their Uncles, and bythis means are of Royal blood both by Fathe r and Mother.These Princesses are held in great esteem by the Kings,their Husbands ; yet if they are minded to try other Menthey are not prohibited, but may and often times do so,making use of whom they fancy for their pleasure, butespecially of some Brachman, or other of their Husbands'principal Courtiers, who with their privity and consent arewont to converse and practise with them most intrinsecally2

in the Palace.

The K ing and all others, as I have said, comm only gona ke d; onely they have a cloth wherewith they are girded,reaching to the mid-leg. Yet, when upon any occasion the

1 As to the Nairs and their customs, see ante, p. 218, note 2.2 This is the old way of spelling the word, which is here used in its

obsolete sense of intimately", or "familiarly"



38 0 INDIAN VENDETTA.

King is minded to appear much in Majesty, he puts on

onely a white ves tment of very fine co tton , never usingeither Cloth of Gold, or Silk. Othe rs also when theyplease may wear the like garment, but not in the King'spresence, in which 'tis not lawful for anyone to appearotherwise than naked, saving the cloth above-mentioned.The Arms which everyone wears must not be laid asideat any time, especially not before the King; and,as I haveelsewhere noted, everyone keeps to one sort of Armswhich he first takes to, without ever changing.

W hen two Kings happen to war toge ther each Arm ytakes great heed not to kill the opposing King, nor so muchas to .strike his Umbrella wherever it goes, which isamongst them the Ensign of Royalty,1 because, besidestha t it would be a g rea t sin to have a hand in shedd ingRoyal blood, the par ty, or side, which should kill, or wound,

him would expose themselves to great and irreparable mis-chiefs, in regard of the obligation that the whole Kingdomof the wounded, or slain, King hath to revenge him with thegreatest destruction of their enemies, even with the certainloss of the ir own lives if it be needful. By how much suchKings are of greater dignity among them so much longerthis obligation of furious revenge endure th. So tha t if

the Saviorr should be killed, or wounded, by the A rmy ofthe King of Cociu';' who is his enemy, but of greater dignity,the people of the Savior) stand obliged to one day ofrevenge, (others say three days) during which everyoneis obliged to act his utmost to the utter destruction ofthose of Cocin, even with the manifest hazard of his ownlife. But if the King of Cocin, who hath a greater repute,for honour at least, if not for power, should happen to beslain, or wounded, by the people of the Savior), the fur}- of

1 See ante, p. 268, note 6. - See ante, p. 345.3 See ante, p. 199, note T.





38 2 LA MISERICORDIA.

selves to sleep, which the y did all night much more than

th at time and place requ ir'd; for had Ene m ies come, thegreatest part of the Souldiers being in this manner, I knownot how we should have done.

On December the twenty-fifth by break of day we arriv'dat Cananbr, 1 where we presently landed to hear the divineOffices. Cananbr is a little place upon the shore, butnear a Prom ontory which makes a kind of Haven. Th eCity is surrounded with walls, not very strong, or wellmade, and in some places, I know not by what negligence,decay'd. It hath four Churches,2 to wit La Sede,s or theCathedral; La Misericordia* which is a Confraternity, andpious institution. Th ere are some of them in all the settle-ments of the Portugals. Th ey correspond with one another,and do many good works, much like our Monte delta Pieta,Santo Spirito,6 and other such; for almost all the piousworks, which am ongst us are done by divers Houses andSocieties, this Institution of La Misericordia does amongstthe Portugals; as keeping things deposited; transm ittingBills of Exchange safely; relieving the poor, the sick andimprisoned; maintaining exposed children; marrying youngm aids ; keeping Women of ill Lives when con verted; re-deem ing Slaves; and, in short, all works of Mercy

whereof a City, or Country, can have need. A pious thing ,indeed, and of infinite benefit to the Publick ; the ra the r

1 See ante, p. 356, note.2 O ne at least still rem ains . (See Handbook of Madras, p. 300.)3 See ante, p. 133, note 4.4 Th e well-known Society of Misericord ia was founded on the re-

ma ins of the " Irm and ade de Piedad e", in the days when pestilencewas ra gin g so fiercely tha t the de ad lay unc ared for in th e s treet s,because no one dared to bury, or even to touch, them . T he Societystill exists and performs man y charitable duties. Its me mb ers aredrawn from all classes of Society, and when rendering their servicesare disguised completely by a cowl covering the head and face, withtwo holes in it for the eyes to see thro ug h. (See Fonseca, p . 244.)

•" Th ese a re well-known c haritab le in stitution s.



CANANOR. 383

because they are in all Territories of the Portugals, andhold correspondence together, even those of India withthose of Portugal; so that they all seem but one body,extending itself to several Countries and becoming incre-dibly useful to all. Th is pious institution is govern'd bysecular Confriers,1 to which Confraternity none are admittedbut worthy Persons, upon certain decent conditions andto a set number. So tha t the good works which they doand the great sums expended therein every year, accrue tothe benefit, not only of the Confriers, but of the Publickin general, together with much Charity; hence I do notaccount my time lost in making this little Digression.

The third Church of Cananbr is that of San Francesco,where the Fryers of that Order2 reside; and the fourth, if Iremember right, is that of Santa Maria della Vittoria.Without Cananbr is an entrench'd Fort, contiguous to the

walls of the City, and under the Portugals' jurisdiction.But about a musket shot distant, or more, is a great openspace, which they call the Bazdr, where all sorts of Pro-visions and other Merchandize are sold ; it is like that ofCalecut, and perhaps better; yet this territory is under thejurisdiction of the Gentiles (though the Inhabitants are ina great part Malabar Moors), and by authority from a

King of this Country, whom they call the King of Cananbr,and who resides far from the Sea, 'tis governed by a famousMalabar Moor, nam'd Agd Begel? whose House I saw, butnot himself, having spent this whole day in walking upand down Cananbr and the Bazdr of the Gentiles, for Idined with our Captain on shore in the House of aPortugal married there . At nigh t having viewed all, andbought abundance of dried Indian F iggs and manyVessels of Conserves of the Pulp of young Indian Cane, or

1 Or " confriar", one of the same Order.2 See ante, p. 156, note 3.? ' Probably Aga Beg (or Bey). See ante, p. 225, note 4.



CON TINUA TION OF VOYAGE.

Bambu} (which is very good to eat after this manner) and

of green Pepper. Cucumbers and other Fruits wont to bepickled by them in Vinegar,2 and vendible here, very goodand in great plenty, at length we returned on Ship-board.

XVII .—On December the twenty -six th we set sail fromCananbr, but for three dayes together sailed but little byreason of the accustom'd contrary wind and our castingAnchor frequently, as well in the day-time as at night

December the twenty-n inth. W e passed before Cagna-rotto? whence some Men came in a Boat from the K ingof Banghcl* (who lives there in Sanc tua ry with the King ofthat place, his Friend and Kinsman) to visit and makepresents to our Chief Captain in the Name of their Lord.

On December the thirtieth , about noon, we entred the Portof Mangalbr:' I had a desire to go to Carnatt*' to see thatQueen," and had already given Money for a Boa t to carryme thither, being5* I might sooner and better go so thanwith a Palaucliino; but this journey was prevented as wellas my former one, I know not by what unhappy destiny ;for I understood that the Fleet was by all means to departfrom Mangalbr the next day, so that I could not havetime to go and return ; and if I lost the opportunity ofthis Fleet, God knows when I should have another of

passing to Goa, whither other considerations of my businessrequired me to repair as soon as m ight be. So I deferr'dmy going to Carnate, but with no small regret a t beingdeprived of the knowledge of that Queen, who was re-ported to me as a Lad}' of grea t worth and valour.

1 See p. -2O, no te 5. '- See a?ite, p. 327, note 4.3 See ante, p. 286, note 1. But th is m ay be the mo dern Chandra-

gadi (see Eastwick's Handbook of Madras, p. 301), identical with theancient Cangereeora. (See Yule's Cathay, etc., vol. ii, p. 451.)

4 See ante, p. 286. ' See ante, p. 212, note 2.0 See ante, pp. 168, 314. and 352, note 5.7 See ante, p. 353.* For "since"; see ante, p. 28, note 1.



A NUM EROUS CONVOY. 38 5

Whilst we stay'd ashore I went to the Church of SanFrancesco to visit those Fa thers, where I found the ChiefCaptain of our Fleet, Sig: Luis di Mendoca, whom I hadnever seen before. W e conversed together for some time,as he wished to know more of me, and I found him a verycom pleat and gallant Cavalier, and, having been bred inthe Court of Spain as the Queen's Page, a much betterCourtier than other Portugal Cavaliers of India, who havenot seen other Countries, are wont to be.

On December the one and thirtieth I heard Mass in thefore-noon and dined ashore with the Brother of SignorTome de Barrios, my Friend in Goa, at the House of thePadre Vicario of Mangalbr, nam'd x andknown to me likewise at Goa. In the evening I wentaboard, and when it was dark we went out of the mouthof the Port to put ourselves before the whole Cafila? which

here began to joyne with our Fleet, very numerous indeed,consisting of above a hundred and fifty Ships , laden withRice, which were going to Goa, from whence all that Pro-vision is dispersed abroad; of which Cafila our Ship beingCaptain of the Vant-guard3 it behoved us to go first;but, being4 the Cafila was so grea t, we cast Anchor justwithout the mouth of the Port, there expec ting the dayand a sign to be given us by the Chief Captain with hisCannon. For it was requisite for all to keep as closetogether as possible, to the end that so many ships ofMerchandize, (disarmed and without Souldiers, saving theConvoy5 consisting of the few Ships of our Fleet, some ofwhich went before, some in the middle and some alwayesbehind) mig ht go secure from the assaults and surprizes

1 This hiatus occurs in the original. 2 See a?ite, p. 121, no te 3.3 Old form of spelling, from the French avant.4 Fo r "s in ce "; see p. 28, note 1.fi T he word " Convo y" is used correctly to den ote either th e p ro-

tecting", or protected, fleet.

C C



386 SCARLET JASMIN.

of P ira tes ; and, indeed, to guard so many disarmed and

laden Ships that took up so much room at Sea with sofew armed Vessels was no easie matte r. But so it wasarranged tha t we, above all the rest, were to tak e particu-lar care tha t no Ship got before us, or separa ted from theCompany, lest some disaster might befall them.

X V II I.— O n the first of January 1624 we set sail fromMangalbr1 towards Goa, with the whole Cafila, whichencreased hourly; other Merchant Ships joyning with usat all the Ports by which we passed, we giving them a signwith our Cannon, and many times waiting for them tillthey came out. This first day we sailed not above threeLeagues, and anchored under Can/ate,'2 but not in such aplace and time tha t I could go to see the Queen as I desired.

On January the second we set forth again very early,but a contrary North-West Wind arising caus'd us toanchor among the Rocks, which they call Scogli di SantaMaria 3; whence some Men that went on shore broughtme some Jasmen,4 of a very goodly Scarlet5 Colour,8 ofwhich sort I had never seen any Jasmen before, in any

1 As this is the last mention of Mnngali'ir, a few details regardingthe place may here be add ed to those given at p. 212. Th e nam e ofthe town is probably derived from the goddess Manga/a Devi, who

has a tem ple there. It is the principa l civil and military station ofS. K anara, and was the scene of a ga llant defence by th e En glishand na tive troops in 1782 again st T ipu Sahib 's whole army. (SeeWilks, ii, p. 466.)

- See ante, pp. 168, 314, and 352, note 5.3 See ante, p. 300, note 3.4 Spelt Gesmini in the original Italian . Th e nam e is a corruption

of the Arabic Yasimon.5 In the original, cinabro, or vermilion.6

Probably one of the Bignonia tribe, noted for the gay colours oftheir flowers, which som ewhat resem ble those of the jasm in in shap e,but are deficient in scent, which is one of the chief attractions of thelatter species (see Lindleys 1'egetable Kingdom , sub verb.). It may ,possibiy, have been the Bignonia Venusta, which somewhat resemblesa jasmin, and bears flowers of a vermilion or orange colour.



AN ENEMY IN SIGHT. 387

other place of the world; but for smell it had little, or noneat all.1

On January the third we set forth again at our usualhour, and the wind began to blow from the land, which intha t place is on the East. W e pass'd by Barselbr} and, aLeague beyond, anchored at the Rock of Camboli} wherewe waited for the Cafila of Barselbr; we not entering thereourselves that it might dispatch the sooner.

January the fifth. W hilst we stay'd at Camboli, expect-ing the coming forth of all the Cafila of Barselbr, in theMorning we discover'd twelve Ships coming towards usfrom the South; and knowing that they were not Mer-chant ships but Men of War, and having no news of anyArniado that was to come from Goa at this time, we judgedthem to be Paroes^ of Malabar Pirates, as indeed theyappear'd; for the said Paroes are almost like the Ships of

the Portugals, bu t somewhat lighter. And because we sawthem make directly up to us we prepar'd for fight andsailed forward to meet them; assuring ourselves that ifthey were Paroes they came to assault us; since theycould not but know that the Ships of our Arniado, whichalone were fit for fight, were fewer than theirs, and that theother Merchants' Ships of the Cafila whom we convoy'dcould serve for nothing else but either to fly away, if theywere able, or to increase their booty in case the few arm'dVessels should be beaten.

1 Ind ian flowers, with some notable exceptions, are gene rally some -what disappointing in regard to scent. He nce arose the remark,attrib ute d to a late Fina ncia l M emb er of Council, th at " India is aplace where everything smells except the flowers".

2 See ante, p. 250, note 2.3 It seems probable that Camboli is identical with Cumbala or

Cambulla (mentioned in Yule's Cathay, etc., vol. ii, p. 451), themodern Kumblah (see Eastw ick's Handbook of Madras, p. 301). Bu tthis place is south (not north, as here stated) of Mangalur.

i See ante, p. 201, note 2.C C 2



388 PREPARATION'S FOR A FIGHT.

The Ship wherein I was, being the Captain of the Vant-guard,1 was far before the rest and alone, towards that partwhence the abovesaid Ships were coming. Having be-taken ourselves to our Arm s, (which yet was not donewithout some confusion, because the things in the Ship wereout of order, and the Souldiers unprovided with Powder,which was to be fetch'd out of the place where it was kept,and distributed thus hastily in small quantities, being- ourstore was but small) we consulted a while what to do,whether to wait for our other Ships, which were behind,and so joyn all togethe r in encountering the Ene m y; orelse to begin the fight alone, as we were, till the rest cameup to us.

The first Course seem'd safest and most judic ious, thelatter was more magnanimous, but withal temerarious,3

because we were so distant from our Company that, before

they could come to succour us, our Ship might be whollydestroy'd; as, being but one, it might very easily be by somany, especially in that extreme, furious, way of fightingpractis'd here, wherein there is grea t use of fireworks.4

Yet our Captain and the rest of us thought it was no timeto demur longer and consult together, because the E nem ywas so near tha t to wait for our C om pany would have little

advantag'd, but m ight much have prejudie'd, us, givingthem thereby presum ptions of our weakness and fear.Wherefore we all cried out to go on ; tha t, since we werecome to this pinch, 'twas better to incur our loss alonewith a valorous temerity by doing our duty than tohazard the loss of the whole ArmadoanA its Reputation , if

1

See ante, p. 385, note 3.'•• Fo r " since"; see ante, p. 28, note.3 An obsolete word, used by Bishop Latimer and other writers.4 In original, artificii di' fuoco, which words probably refer to some

con trivance s for setting fire to the enemy 's ship. As to the use of firein Indian warfare, see Wilks Southern India, vol. ii, p. 471 .



CLOSING WITH THK ENEMY. 38 9

the Enemy, perceiving us timorous and weak, should takeheart against us from our imprudent fear; that as it wasour duty to go forward, so it was the duty of our Com-panions to follow us and succour us, and not let us perishalone; that this care belong'd to them; that if they didotherwise the fault would lie upon them, not upon us ;(in fine) let us give the onset and leave Heaven to takecare of the rest.

Thu s resolv'd we desperately sail'd forward. Our Com-panions who were nearest would have done the like; butthe Chief Captain, who was far behind in another place ofthe Cafila, shot off a Piece to com mand all to stay for him,reasonably conceiving it the best way to attack theenemy all together; whereupon all the other Ships of theFleet which were behind us stood still awhile; but wealone, seeing ourselves so far engag'd and so near the

Enemy, whatever the others did, would by no means staybut continu'd our course. W hich S ig: Francesco Pesciotto,Captain of one of the nearest Ships, beholding, and mis-liking that we should charge thus alone and he quietlylook on at a little distance, lost all patience and beganagain to make up after us, though afar off; the same didall the rest soon after, conceiving it the best way. W ewere now within Falcon-shot (for greater Pieces thanFalcons1 these Ships carry not) but forbore to fire till anearer approach might make the shot more certain; whichseem'd also to be the Enemies' design; when, being comeso near as to speak and be heard, and stand ing ready togive fire both by the Ordnance and Musket, by the voices

1 Th e nam e " Falcon " was applied to cannon whose diameter atthe bore was 55 in., an d weight 750 lb. ; its length 7 ft., and weightof shot 2 J i b . T he derivation of the nam e is uncertain, but it wasoriginally applied to an instrum ent used for makin g holes in walls(from falx, "a ho ok"), and henc e proba bly was applied to small cannonused for the same purpose.



39 0 A JOYFUL SURPRISE.

and cries on either side we found each other to be friends,for these Ships were an unexpected and extraord inaryFleet of Portugals, sent to Coa'ti1 to convey securely fromthence to Goa certain moneys of the Confraternity dellaMiserkordia- and other Provisions. Hereupon, the feudceasing, the deadly firing was turn 'd into joyful Saluta-tions, with cheerful noise of Drums and Trumpets ; at thesound whereof the Dawn, beginning to break, seem'd alsoto hasten to rejoyce with us and to part our erroneousfray.

I have mention'd this occurrence at large to the end thatthe successes,3 and inconveniences, and the counsels andresolutions ensuing suddenly thereupon may be known ;from all which pruden t advice for othe r occasions may bededuced, and also to make known to all the world thedemeanour of the noble Portugal Nation in these parts;who indeed, had they but as much order, discipline andgood government as they have valour, Onnhz and othersad losses4 would not be now lamented, but they wouldmost certainly be capable of achieving grea t matters. ButGod gives not all things to all.

XIX.—It being now broad day we set sail with thewhole Cafila ; but, by reason of contrary wind, sail'd no

more than three leagues, and late in the evening came toanchor, in the place where we happened to be ; the con-trary Northwest wind beginning to grow more boisterous.

January the sixth. W e had the W ind still contrary,and, having sail'd three other leagues, at the usual hour wecast anchor near the Rocks of Baticala '

1

See ante, p. 199, no te 1. 2 See ante, p. 382.3 Or, rather, "adventures' . 4 See ante, p . 171, no te 5.•• Mark ed Batcull and Baikal in mo dern m aps , in 140 N. Lat.

Identical with the Batigala of Jor da nu s. It was a gre at place, withmany merchants, where ships of Ormuz and Aden came to load sugarand rice, but was destroye d by the rise of Goa. Th ere was an En glish



VOYAGE CO NTIN UED . 391

On the seventh, the said wind blowing som ewhat favour-ably, about noon we pass'd by Onbr} and, without staying,discharg'd only one Gun to give notice for the Ships tocome out of the port, if any were there tha t would ac-company us; for greater diligence was not needful, be-cause few come from thence. In the Evening, the usualcontrary North-West wind arising, we came to an Anchor,a little distant from Mirizeo? At the second watch of thenight a good stiff South wind arose; and in the forenoonne xt d ay we pass'd by the Rocks, call'd Angediva? and atnight came to an anchor somewhat Southwards of Capofatso*

On January the ninth the wind was contrary and ourway short; and because we could not proceed forwardswe cast anchor near Rio del Sale5; also the next day, forthe same reason, we could get no further than an Enceada

factory her e in the 17th century. It is me ntioned by Barbosa andD e Barro s. (See Yule's Cathay, vol. ii, p. 451.) Barbosa ('M age llan )mentions iron and myrobolans (see ante, p. 233) also among theexports, and also "spi ce s and drugs "; and, among the imports,horses, pearls, coco-nuts, palm sugar, coco-nut oil, and palm wine.Fo r these and other details, see East Coast of Africa and Malaba r(H aklu yt edition), pp. 80 and 81. It is frequently me ntioned also inthe Commentaries of Dalboquerque, quod vide. No t to be confusedwith Bathecala, further north , the m odern Beitkid. (See Yule'sCathay, etc., vol. ii, p. 450.)

1 See ante, p. 190, note 3.2 Marked Marjel, and Mirjau, in mo dern ma ps. So called from

the river Mergeo, or Mergeu, north of Kumtah, from which muchrice was exported. Th ere is still a place here called Mirjau, theMeerjee, or Meerzah, of Rennell. Mergeo is described by Barbosa(East Coast of Africa, etc., p. 79). (See Yule's Cathay, vol. ii, p.450.)

3 See ante, p. 201, note 4.4 Marked as Cape Ruma, or Hamas, in modern map s. Probably

called Falso from being sometimes mistaken for Cape Marmagaon,further north.

5 A small estuary, as its name imports.



3 9 - POWER OF TH E JESU ITS.

(as they speak) or Bay, call'd Morwogbn,1 in the Island ofSalsette;1 contiguous to that of Goa on the South, butgreater, and divided from the same only by a River.3 ThisIsland of Salsette is full of very fair Towns4 and abundanceof Houses. Above all the Jesuits have the goodliestplaces, and 'tis counted that perhaps a third par t of theIsland is thei rs ; for, besides three good Tow ns whichbelong wholly to them, they have also dominion andgovernment in all the other Towns too which arenot the irs; they have Churches everywhere, Lands andstore of goods, and, I believe, all the Parishes aregovcrn'd by them in Spirituals with Supreme Authority;whence this people acknowledge more Vassallage tothe Jesuits than to the King himself. The case is thesame in another Island call'd Bardeos,6 adjacent also tothat of Goa, but more Northw ard, which is under the

government of the Franciscans. Nor is it otherwise inalmost all the other Territories of the Portugals; sothat it may justly be said that the best, and perhapstoo the greatest part of this Sta te is in the hands ofReligious Orders.6

XX.—Having anchor'd in the Bay of Mormogbn ingood time and knowing th at we were not to depart the

1 More correctly, MArmagaonj see ante, p . 154, no te 2. It isdescribed by a recent visitor as "a miserable shelf of a place, all quayand sandy cliff, and railway goods terminus". (See Murray'sMagazineof November 1890, p. 652.)

- Th is was one of the t hre e o riginal provinces forming the oldconquered territory of Goa, the other two being Ilhao and Badez(sometimes written as Bardes). (See Eastw ick's Handbook of Bom-bay, p. 229.)

3

T he Tuari river. See ante, p. 175, note I.4 In original, I'ille, which may mean towns, but here probablyshould be rendered as " country residences".

5 Or Badez.6 On th;s subject, see ante, pp. xv, 156 (note 7), and 162 (note 4).



CHURCH OF ST. ANDR EA. 39 3

night following, our Captain, with some others of us, wentashore to see a Place and Church of the Jesuits call'dS. Andrea ̂ which they told us was hard by; yet we foundit not so near, but that we walk't about a league to get toit, because we knew not the right way, but mistook it andwere fain to leap over very broad and deep ditches ofwater, into one whereof one of our Company happened tofall, to the great laughter of the rest, besides many otherinconveniences. We found the Church large, neat andwell built, with a fair square Court, or Yard, before it, sur-rounded with handsome stone walls, and within it somegreat Trees, under which were Banks rais'd to sit upon inthe shadow. On one side of the Church was a very fairand well-built House for the Padre Retlore, who hath thepresent superintendence thereof; which Church and Build-ing would be very magnificent, not only for this place but

even for the City of Rome itself.We stay'd a good while, discoursing with the Rector,

who told us sundry news from Goa and invited us toSupper; but, fearing to arrive too late at the Fleet if westay'd to sup here, we wav'd the Courtesie and, takingleave of him at Sun-set, re turn 'd to the place where wehad left our Sh ips ; and, though we had a Guide to con-

duc t us by the best and nearest way, yet we got notthither to imbarque before two hours of the night.January the eleventh. At our departing from the Port

of Mormogbn this day, on which we were to arrive at Goa,the Chief Captain, who was wont to go in the Rear-guard,being now minded to go in the middle of the Armadacommanded our Ship (hitherto Captain of the Vant-guard)to remain behind all the rest for guarding the Rear-guard,where great diligence was to be used, both that nostraggling Ship might be in danger of being surpriz'd by

1 This church is apparently not standing in the present day.



3 9 4 ARRIVAL AT COA.

Rovers, or any of the Merchants' Vessels slip aside toavoid paying Custom at Goa, and go to unlade in otherplaces of Counterband.1 Wherefore, hav ing sail'd the littleremainder of the way and caus'd all the o ther Ships toenter, which were in number more than two hundred andfifty, we at length enter'd the Bar, or Mouth, of the Rioof Goa} where we anchor'd under a Fort hard by, withoutgoing further towards the City; it being the custom forno Fleets to arrive at the City without giving notice andobtaining the Licence of the Viceroy.

Here we found the Ship, which alone was to go thisyear to Portugal, already laden and ready to sail; as alsosome Galeons in readiness likewise, whether to be sent toOnline, or elsewhere, I know not. Sig: Ayrcs de Siqneira,Captain of our Ship, having got leave of the Chief Captain,went to Goa with a Manciva? or Boat, which came to himfor that purpose; and I, with Sig: Francesco Pesciotto,Captain of another Ship, Sig: Matioel Lcycra, and somefew Souldiers, accom panied him. We arriv'd at Goa whenit was dark night, because 'tis three leagues from themouth of the Bar to the City, almost directly from Southto North; so that there is a considerable difference be-tween the altitude of the Pole at Goa and at the Bar.

Having landed, everyone went to his own hom e; and I,who had no house ready for m e, nor yet any servant, went,alone as I was, to lodge in the House of Sig: AntionioBaraccio, my friend, according as himself and Sig: RuyGomes, his B rother, had promis'd I should when I de-parted from Goa. As I was going thithe r I was unex-pected ly met by the said two Brothers, who receiv'd me

with their wonted courtesie. My Bed and Goods which

1 An obsolete word for " contraband".- I.e., the river Mandavi. See ante, p. 175, note 1."- See ante, p. 211. Som etimes written Manchw.



ECCE ITERUM CACCIATUR 39 5

I had in the Ship were soon after brought to the same

place by the procurement of Sig: Ayres.I understood here that my quondam servant, the honestCacciathr, coming hither from Ikkeri to Goa after his falsedealing with me,1 had attem pted to put a trick uponSignora Marie? also, but it did not succeed. He feign'dth at I had sent him beforehand to tak e orders for a houseagainst my return, and was importunate for money to pre-pare and provide things necessary. My letter he ventur'dnot to present, but p retended a misfortune at Sea, wherebyit was lost, with other such inventions. Hereupon SignoraMaria suspected him, and, without my Le tters, gave nocredit to him, as neither did Signora Maria da Cugna? Sothat, finding his devices to get money from them prov'dineffectual, he came no more in sight; and we believehe is gone into the territories of the Moors amongst the

Mahometans, having heard no more news of him.XXL—On January the twentieth a Proclamation was

put forth by the Vice-Roy for all Portugal Souldiers (theycall all such as have not wives Soldati) and also all Dis-tiacciatif though married,5 to prepare to go to Ormuz; itbeing given out that the Vice-Roy intended to pass thitherin person with a great Armada and Galeons. Am ongst

the Portugals those are call'd Dispacciati who havingended their Service, (which everyone is oblig'd to performfor eight years, only with that small pay and maintenancewhich is given to servants, which indeed is very slender)

1 See ante, p. 292.2 See ante, p. 24, note 1.3 See ante, p. 160. This lady's husband was probably a descendant

of the celebrated Tristao da Cunha, who discovered the island (in370 6' S., an d 120 2' W .), as described in Commentaries of A. Dalbo-querque (Hakluyt edit, vol. i, p. 24), which is named after him.

4 Or " time-expired" men.5 In original, accasati, or "settled in houses", which, no doubt,

would generally imply the married state.



3 ° 6 DIST'ACCIATI.

upon petition to the King in Spain and representation of

the faithfulness of their services, according as the sameare greater or less, are dismiss'd by the King w ith somehonourable and profitable Charge, as Captain of a Fort, andthe like, to enjoy the same for three years, or some otherdeterminate time. Which charges they enter not upon assoon as the same are gran ted , bu t when it falls to themin due course, according to the tim e of their dism ission;whereby it comes to pass that some never enjoy them aslonc^ as they live, nor yet their Sons sometimes, unless verylate, (in case the favour extend to their sons too) becauseall the said charges, or offices, go by seniority; everyman's time beginning from the day of his dismission; andoftentimes it happens that forty, or fifty, are dismissed atthe same time with him, all of whom must first enjoy thesame Office, or else die to make way for him.

In brief, 'tis an invention of the Kings of Portugalmuch for their own interest; for, not having much to givein recompense of services, they by this means pay thegreates t par t of those tha t serve them with hopes alone ;which also prove very well for them ; the men of this nationbeing of such an humour that they not only are contentedwith these bare hopes, and hold them selves well requited

for man\r great and toilsome services, but make grea t

account thereof; for the value of these Reversions, whichare to fall God knows when, forms the estate and supportof many Daughters, and, in brief, in respect of the littleother estates they have in India, is one of the best andmost considerable advantages that they possess, besidestheir being of much reputation and honour.

Now to all such as were in this manner dismissed wasthis Proclamation directed, obliging them to go to Ormiizwith the Viceroy, under penalty of losing all their Rever-sions. But, for all this , inte lligent men did not believethat the Vice-Roy would undertake this Expedition, both



SIEGE OF ORMUZ. 397

because they did not hold him to be a man likely totake up such a resolution, and because there were notsuch preparations made in Goa for his voyage as wererequisite.

XXII .—On January the two and twentieth a Galeot,under the command of Sig: Manoel de Paiva, our friend,arriv'd at Goa from Sindi} in which were many personswho had come to Sindi in other Ships from Mascaf 1 ;amongst the rest there was a considerable3 Souldier be-longing to Ruy Freiraf who brought certain news of hisown knowledge how the said Ruy Freira, having heldOnniiz* closely besieg'd for a long time, and brought theDefenders to great distress for want of all things, at length,no relief coming to him, and having no provisions where-with to continue the siege, (his victuals failing him) wasconstrain'd to raise the Siege and return to Mascat with

all his Army; yet with intention to make new provisions,and get new succour and ammunition, and then to re-turn again to besiege the place, which, in the meantime,the Moors omitted not to supply with all sorts of neces-saries for a long time, to repair the Fortifications, andreinforce it with fresh Soldiers.

All which consider'd, I hold the retaking of Ormiiz to be

very difficult, both in regard of the courage the enemyha th recovered by this Action, and because the samescarcity of Vic tuals will happen frequently, and, in a short

1 Probably meant for Sindu, the old nam e for Diul or Daibiu, aport at the mouth of the Indus. (See Yule's Cathay, etc., vol. i,p. clxxviii, and ante, p. 136, note 4.)

- See ante, p. 158, note 7.3 In the original, grave, i.e., of rank, or imp ortance.4 See ante, p. 187.5 See ante, p. 2 , no te 1. A full description of Ormuz will be found

in P. della Valle's Letter No. x v m from Persia. See also Arrian 'sIndica, cap. 37, where the island is described un der th e nam e ofOrgatia.



398 THE VICEROY OF GoA.

time, to the besiegers no less than to the besieged, being1

the Island affords nothing of itself, and our provisionsmust be fetched from greater distance than those of theenemies ; wherein if much diligence be no t us'd on ourpart, I doub t not but it will be very difficult for them tohold the S iege for long; and whenever they in termit thesame never so little, as they have done now, tha t shorttime is sufficient to secure the place from famine; because,having the Continent so near at hand and provisions therein much plenty , it ma)' be in one day alone supply 'd formany months. As for taking it by ba tter)', or otherwise,the Portugal* being so few and little skill'd in such Arts,and on the other side the enemy being so numerous andindefatigable in undergoing toil and pains, I hold it to bevery difficult.

The Viceroy of Goa, who had been so cold in sendingsuccours to Ruy Freira because he would not that he shouldtake Oriuurj, but only hold it streightencd till he himselfwent in person to reap the fruit of others' labours, (that sohe might with the glory of this victory cover the previousneglect he had committed in the shameful loss of the Shipson the Voyage when he came to India), now, hearing thisnews, and how Ormuz, which he thought he had in his

clutches, was by the retreat of Rny Freira (who wouldinfallibly write into Spain of the wrong done him in notsending him an)- forces, or succour, during a year's timethat he had been upon the attempt, and would heinouslycharge the Viceroy for it) escap'd out of his hands andbecome very difficult to be taken, was infinitely troubledtherea t; and, indeed, I do no t know how he can excuse

himself to his Master for so great neg ligences ; and somehave heard him lament much, and say that it was his ownfault. However it be, the talk of his going to On/iiic

1 Fo r "' since"; êe ante, p. 28, note 1.



RUY FREIRA'S PROCEEDINGS. 399

became very cold upon this news; and, if it was not believ'dat first, after this it was held to be entirely given up ;although, to encourage others to the expedition, he stillkept up the report.

The same Ship brought news how Ruy Freira, whilst hewas at the Siege of Ormuz with his few Ships, sent twoto the Streight of Mecca} to see whether they could getany booty which might serve to support his forces; anotherto Sindi 1 to fetch provisions, and to advertise the Mogul'sMinisters there not to send any Ships into Persia? other-wise he should take them; yet neither those of Mecca northis of Sindi ever return'd to him, neither did his Captainssend him anything from Muscat: so that he was con-strain'd to remove his quarters. Besides, during his staybefore Ormiiz, he had sent some other Ships to fall uponthe Country of those Arabians'^ living upon the coast of

Persia in the gulf above Mogostdn,5

who are calledNachilu ̂ and this enterprise succeeded well enough, they

1 A name applied to the entrance of the Red Sea. (See Comin. ofA. Dalboquerque, vol. iii, p. 55 (Hakluyt edit.).

2 See ante, p. 397, note 1.3 I.e., to the relief of Ormuz.4 It may be open to doubt whether these people were true

Arabians, or whether they were Arabitce, an Indian race, mentionedby Arrian, who lived on this coast, so called from the river Arabins.See Heeren's Historical Researches, vol. i, p. 191, and Arrian's Indica,chap, xxi, where he says : " Near this place {Croatia) dwells anIndian tribe called the Arabii, who derive their name from the riverArabis (the modern Piirali or Al-Mend), which flows through theircountry to the sea, parting them from the Oritcp." And in chap, xxvhe says: " The length of the voyage along the coast of the Arabiiwas 1,000 stadia.

5 At the southern end of the Persian Gulf, between Kohistan andLaristan (see ante, p. 45, note 3). These three districts formed theancient province of Karmania described in Arrian's Indica, chap,xxxii.

6 In modern maps Nackiloo. On the coast of Laristan, in Persia,in Lat. 26° 57' N., and Long. 53° 40' E.



40O DEFEA T OF TH E PORTUGALS.

having made great destruction and taken much spoil; but

afterwards the Captains of the same Ships, being greedy ofprey, contrary to the order of Ruy Freira and against thejudgment of one of them who was the head of all therest (little obedience is an ordinary thing among thePortugals and causes infinite disorders) design 'd to setupon another place, whose Governour, who was an ArabianSceich,1 at first attempted to make them forbear with goodwords, saying tha t he was their Vassa l, etc., but, when hesaw that Courtesie prevailed not against their rapacity, hegot his men together and made head against them; sothat, assaulting them in a convenient place as they wereout of order, he defeated them, killing many, and, amongstthose, divers capta ins and Soldiers of va lour ; which was nosmall loss.

It was further related tha t during the Siege of Ormhz,the besieg'd being in great streights for all other things,and, which was most important, of water also, which withinthe Fort2 fail'd them and was corrupted, yet Ruy Freiracould not hinder them from fetching plenty of very goodwater as often as they pleas'd at a place in the Island,without the Fort, which they call Trumbak*; where,not through want of Soldiers, (for he might have had

Arabians enough and others of those Countries) but forwant of money to pay and support them, he could never

1 For Sheikh, or chief. Literally " old man ", a title of dignityproperly belong ing to the chiefs of the A rab tribes , or clans. It isalso the title of the high er o rder of religious pre ach ers. But it iswidely used among Muhammadans as a title of respect.

: A full desc ription of this Fo rt will be found in P. d ella V alle's

Letter No. x v m from Persia.3 Or Turumbaque (see Commentaries of A. Dalboquergue, vol. i,PP- 175-77? Ha kluy t edition), wh ere were the pools, or cister ns, fromwhich the garr ison was usually supplied with water. An old plan ofth e Fo rt at O rmiiz will be found at p . 112 of vol. i of th e work referredto .





4 0 2 A JESU IT PROCESSION'.

ago had fled into Persia to the Sciah} as I have elsewherementioned in this Diary,2 or else because the two Brothersnever agreed together, and that he who reign'd still, eitherfor his own interest on account of the said passage of theCafilas, or through fear since the taking of On/ith, orperhaps forced by W ar, or othe r like Acciden ts, haddispos'd himself to be friendly and obedient to thePersians.

XXIV.— On January the twenty-fifth the Jesuits of theCollcdgc of Saint Paul? (this day being the feast of theirColledge) began to make part of their Solemnities, whichwere to be made for joy at the Canonization of theirSaints Ignatio and SciavieiA; the Celebration of which wasdeferred till now, that more time might be allotted for pre-paration. Th ey came forth with a Cavalcade of all theirCollegians, divided into three Squadrons under three

Banners, one of which represented the Asiaticks, one theAfricans, and another the Europeans; those of eachSquadron being clothed after the manner of their respec-tive Countries. Before the Cava lcade went a Chariot ofClouds with Fame on the top, who, sounding her Trumpetwith the adjunction of Musick, published the news of thesaid Canonization. Tw o other Cha riots accom pany'd the

Cavalcade, the hinderm ost of which represented Faith, orthe Church; the other in the middle was a Mount Par-nassus, with Apollo and the Muses, representing theSciences professed in the said Colledge; both whichChariots were also full of very good Musick and many

1 I.e., Sha h Abb as, as to whom much in teres ting information will

be found in P. della Valle's Letters, Nos. iv and v, from Persia.- In one of the Letters from Persia.3 See ante, p. 142, and p. 185, note 3.4 Fo r Xavier. See ante, p. 170, no tes 2, 3, and 4. See also

F. PyrartTs Voyage, vol. ii, p. 62, Pa rt 1 (H aklu yt edition), whe re anengraving of the silver shrine of this latter Saint will be found.



PICTO RIAL PYRAMIDS. 4 0 3

people . Moreover they remov'd from place to placeamongst the Cavalcade five great Pyramids upon wheels,drawn by Men on foot, well cloth'd after the Indianfashion. Upon the first were painted all the Martyrs ofthe Order of Jesuits; upon another all the Doctors andWriters of Books; upon another figures of Men of all suchNations in their proper habits, where the said order hathfoundations, to represent the Languages in which theFa thers of it preach. Another had abundance of Devicesrelating to all the Provinces of the said Religion; and,lastly, ano ther had all the Miracles both of Sant Ignatioand San Francesco Sciavier.

All of these Pyram ids had Epitaphs, Statues and otherOrnaments both on the Pedestal and at the top; andpassing in this manner through the principal streets of theCity, they planted and left the said Pyramids in several

places, one before the See,1 or Archiepiscopal Church

2; one

before the profess'd House of Giesil3; one before theChurch of San Paolo,* where at first they kept the Col-ledge, but by reason of the badness of the air, remov'd itfrom thence,5 yet the Church remains to them, which wassometimes much frequented and magnificent, but at thisday is but meanly provided for, so that they are still in

contest about it with the City which unwillingly consentsto this changing of the Colledge. Th e last they left beforethe new Colledge, the Church whereof they are wont tocall San Rocco? and by the other name also; for theJesuits, resolute to keep their Colledge by reason of thefairness of the place, notwithstanding the opposition of the

1

See ante, p. 133, note 4.2 See ante, p. 156, note 9, and Eastwick's Handbook of Bombay,p. 224.

3 See ante, p. 162, note 3. 4 See ante, p. 178, note 2.5 See ante, p. 186, note. ° See ante, p. 185, note 3.

D D 2



404 GUADALUPE.

Augustine Fryers,1 who by long and intrica te suits usetheir utmost endeavour to hinder them from it, onely tothe end not to have them as neighbours, under pretext thatthey deprive them of fresh air and the prospect of theSea, the Jesuits, I say, resolute to abide there, prevailinghitherto both against the City (which recalls them backto San Paolo Vecchio, for greate r convenience of theStudents) and against the Augustines, and against theKing himself, who hath many times ordained their re-moval and the destruction of their new Colledge, neverthe-less maintain themselves in possession of their new andsum ptuous Fabrick, which also they daily inlarge, andnominate San Paolo Nuovo, for in India they will have alltheir Colledges dedicated to Saint Paul, the Doctor ofth e Gentiles.2

XXV.—On January the nine and twentieth I went,together with the Signori Baracci, my entertainers, andother friends, to see and spend a day at Guadalupe? whichis a place of Recreation in the Island of Goa, distant fromthe City about two leagues, populous and full of Housesand Gardens of several Portugal Signori, who for pleasurego to dwell there some time of the year, as you at Romedo to Frascati which is the ancient Tusculanum. Guada-

lupe lies at the foot of a certain Precipice, in a plainupon a spacious Lake, which at one time of the year isquite dry'd up and sown with Rice,4 so tha t the prospect isalways very lovely; because the Lak e is either full ofwater, in which grow abundance of pretty flowers andaquatick Plants; or else 'tis all green with Rice, which issown before the Lake is totally dry and grows up to

1 See ante, p. 156, no te 1. 2 See ante, p. 142.3 This is pro bab ly the "p la ce 01 pleas ure" referred to at p. 182.

T he first part of the nam e is a contrac tion of Aguado, a watering-place.

* See ante, p. 175, note 4.



CINNAMON TREE. 40 5

maturity before the Water returns; so that it makes a verypretty Show, and the more because this Water, being col-lected in time of great rain, is fed also by a sm all bu t con-stantly running River; and,though so kept there for manymonths, yet causes not any bad affection of the A ir ; butthrough the goodness of the Climate the Air is alwaysbetter here than anywhere else.

Nor is the Sea far distant, to wit the shore of the othermore Southern River,1 which forms the Island of Goa, onthe other side, opposite to the C ity ; the mouth of whichRiver makes a secure and spacious Harbour, where some-times even the greatest Portugal ships ride, and in oldtime the City stood there, so that they call the place G oaVecchia, or old Goa? As we return'd we saw abundance

of Villages and Palmetos3 full of all sorts of fruits,* andmany fair and well-kept Churches, as San Lorenzo? and

others within a small distance; so that I had reason tojudge this place to be held the most delicious of Goa.

On January the th irtieth being in Guadalupe, in theGarden of the House where we were, which belong'd toSignor Simon Gomes our Friend, and Kinsman to the Sig:Baracci, I saw a Cannella? or Cinamon Tree, of which some

1 The river Tuari. See ante, p. 175, note 1.a W ha t is now called " New Goa", or P anjim, occupies the site

of the town her e called " Old G oa", while the present " Old Goastands where " New Goa" was in 1624.

3 See ante, p. 182, no te 3. But the word Palmeto should probablybe tran slate d as " Palm groves". As to the Spanish, or Portu gue se,word palmito, see Comm. of A. Dalboquerque, vol. ii, p. 195 (Hakluytedition).

4 As to the various fruits of palm-trees, see Bates' Naturalist on theAmazons, pp . 59, 63, 184, 246, an d 267.

5 T his church does not appea r to be standing at the present day(See " A Re cent Visit to Goa", in Murray's Magazine of November1890.)

6 That is, probably, Canella alba, called Canella (pipe) from theapp ear an ce of th e bark w hen rolled up for export in the form of



406 SORROWFUL XYCTANTHES

are found in Goa, but strangers.1 'Tis as big a Tree as

any, not a shrub, as I ima gin 'd; some of the leaves, whichhave a tas te of Cinnamon and a re pleasan t to be masti-cated, I keep among my baggage to shew the same inItaly, as also some of the Tree Trifoe? with its odoriferous

what are techn ically called " quills". T he Canella alba is not a truecinnam on. Of the spices used by the anc ien ts, cinnam on is said to

have been the most esteemed. It is mentioned by Hero dotus. (SeeHeeren's Historical Researches, vol. i, p. 43.)1 Or "exo tics". In the original, pellegrini, a word not usually

applied to trees, or p lants. Th e wo rds, " or Cinam on Tree ", are in-serted by the translator, and need not necessarily mean the truecinnamon, for the Canella alba is often ca lled " wild cinnam on". Itis a native of the Bah am as and the W est In dies (see Lindley'sVegetable Kingdom, p. 442), and is a tree of abo ut 20 feet in heigh t, asher e stated , wherea s the true cinnam on is a shrub, or low tree, and isa native of Ceylon.

'-' In original, Arbor Trisoe, a m ispr int for Tristo, the NyctanthesArbor tristis, one of the Jasm inw orts. It is thus desc ribed in Lindley'sVegetable Kingdom, p. 651 : "T h is plant, the Hursingkar of India,scents the ga rde n with its delicious perfume only during the night,covering the ground in the morning with its short-lived flowers."Com pare also the following pass age from M and elslo : " Th ere is inSum atra a tree, in the Malayan lang uage called Singadi, in Arab iaGurae : the Cananans call it Parizaticco, Persians and Turks Gul, theVecnnins (i.e., inhabitants of the Indian Da kh an) Pul, and the Portu-

guese Arbor triste de dia T he flowers are white as snow,and a little bigger than the orange flower ; they blow immediately asthe sun is set ; so suddenly that they are produced as it were in thecast of an eye. Th is fecundity lasts all nig ht, till the re turn of the sunmakes both the flowers and leaves drop off, and so strips the treethat the least green ness is not to be found on it, nor anyth ing of thatadm irable odour which perfumed the air, and com prehen ded all thatAsia affords of swe etness. T he tree kee ps in this cond ition till the sunhath left the horizon, and then it begins to open its womb again, and

deck itself with fresh flowers, as if in the shades of night it wouldrecov er itself out of the affliction which it is put into by that plan etwhose return enlivens the rest of the universe." Sir W . Jon es (AsiaticResearches) also writes : " Th is gay tree (Sorrowful Ny cta nth es) , fornothing sorrowful app ears in its natur e, spre ads its rich odou r to aconside rable distance ever)' even ing ; but at su nrise it shed s most of



LOTUS FLOWERS. 4 07

Flowers, which blow every day and nigh t and fall at theapp roach of day, as I myself saw and observ'd of onetha t was planted before the Gate of our House. Th isFlower is very like the Jasmin of Catalonia} but theCannella ha th a yellow one, which is us'd by the Country-people instead of Saffron2 with their meats and upon otheroccasions.

Moreover, I saw and observ'd in the Lake two sorts ofFlowers,3 one great, the other very small, both white,with something of yellow in the midst; the lesser hathno green leaves on the stalk to be seen and the innerpart of the white leaves is full of thick and long Down.The greater Flower hath smooth, long and strait petals,and grows on a Plant whose leaves are large and almostperfectly round, floating on the surface of the water,totally expanded , almost like those of a Gourd. Both

these Flowers have a strange property: in the night they

its night flowers, which are collected with care for the use of perfumersan d dyers." See also Moo re's Lalla Rookh—

" Sat in her sorrow like the sweet night-flow'r,When darkness brings its weeping glories out,And spreads its sighs, like frankincense, about."

1 Jasmimim grandiflorum, or great-flowered Catalonian jasm in.2

See ante, p. 334, note 3.3 Evidently two kinds of lotus (Nelumbium speciosuni), of whichthe re are three varieties known in India. It is called Padma byHi nd us. Th e flower is frequently repre sente d on Indian (andChinese) m onu me nts. Th e fruit is edible and wholesome, and theroot, or stem, is also used as food in C hina and India. Th e tubersof one species {Nelumbium luteum), resembling sweet potato, are alsoeaten . T he juice of the stalk a nd flowers is used as medicine, a ndthe spiral vessels of the leaf and flower-stalk as wicks for lampsin Hin doo tem ples. T he so-called lotus of Eg yp t (see He rodo tus,Bk. ii, ch. 92) is a Nymphaa. W ith reference to the lotus the fol-lowing Japanese maxim is worthy of quotation: " If thou be born inthe poor m an's hovel, but have wisdom, th en shalt thou be like thelotus flower grow ing out of the mud." (See Things Japanese, by B.H. Chamberlain.)





L E T T E R V I I I .

From Goa, November 4, 1624.

Y last I writ to you by the Ship whichdeparted from Goa to Portugal onthe first of February and was theonly Ship of that Kingdom that was

sent hither this year. On which Daythe Bells rung at Goa, and many re-joycings were made, particularly in the Churches of theJesuits} the Augustines,2 and the Dominicans? upon Newsbrought of many Martyrs lately Martyred in Japan,amongst which were many Religious of the abovesaidOrders4; and particularly of Jesuits were Martyred threeItalians, to wit F. Carlo Spinola, a Genovese of principalquality: F. Camillo Costanzo, a Calabrese, or rather a Nea-politan, of a Fam ily whose Esta te lyes in Calabria: andF. Pietro Paolo, a Neapolitan likewise, if I mistake not.

On February the eighth a Council of State was heldconcerning the Vice-Roy's going to Ormuz5; in which, I

1 See ante, p. 162, note 4. 2 See ante, p. 156, note 1.3 See ante, p. 156, note 2.4 It may be useful to mention here that a work recently published,

Christian Monasticism, by I. Grego ry Sm ith, is a valuable text-bookon the subject of these religious bodies.

5 See ante, p. 395.



4 1 0 A RELIGIOUS COMEDY.

know not what was resolved, because some talked onething and some ano ther ; bu t as for the Souldiers, it wasdeterm ined tha t all should go and tha t he that refusedshould be imprisoned, as some were to my knowledge.

On February the tenth, as a beginning of the solemnitiesfor the Canonization, the Jesuits sung Vespers in theChurch of the Professed-house of Gicsit} The nightfollowing the)' caused a numerous Maskerade1 of youngStudents, not Collegians, but Outliers, to pass through thestreets on Horse-back, clothed in several rich hab its andfollowing a Standard whereon were pourtrayed the Effigiesof the Saints. The nex t day there was a solemn Mass inthe same Church, and a Sermon made by the Visitor, F.Andrea Palmnro? at which the Vice-Roy was presen t. Inthe Evening upon a very great Theatre, erected withoutthe Church in the Piazza, for representing many dayes

together the Life of San Francesco Sciavier* they causeda Squadron of young men mask'd in the habits of Peasantsto dance many gallant Ballets with Musick.

On the twelfth of February, in the presence of the Vice-Roy and of all the Nobility and People of the City, (forwhose conveniency scaffolds and seats were erected in thePiazza round about the Theatre, both for Men and Women)

the first Act of the above-said Comedy/' or Tragedy, (asthey said) of the Life of Santo Sciavier was represented.Of which Tragedy , which was a com position representedby about thirty persons, all very richly clothed and deckedwith Jewels, no less ex travagant than grand, whereunto

1 See ante, p. 162, note 3. - See ante, p. 177, note 5.3

So in original, but should be Palmeiro. See ante, p. 160.4 For Xavier ; see ante, p. 170, note 4.:> The word "comedy' is here, of course, used in its original sense,

meaning a representation of a story (real, or fictitious) not necessarilyof a facetious character, as in the present day—e.g., the DivinaComcdia of Dante.



A MASQUERADE. 41 I

they entered to act the rare Musick, gallant dances, andvarious contrivances of Charriots, Ships, Galleys, Pageants,Heavens, Hells, Mountains and Clouds, I forbear to speak,because I have the printed Relations by me.

Cn the eighteenth of February, the Vice-Roy beingindispos'd, the proceedings were suspended and nothingwas done. But on the three following dayes, by twoActs a day, the whole Tragedy was rehearsed. It com-prehended not onely the whole Life, but also the Dea th1

of San Francesco Sciavier, the transportation of his Body'2to Goa, his ascension into Heaven, and, lastly, hisCanonization.3

On the seventh of the same moneth Mass was sung inthe College of San Paolo Nouvo? and a predication madeby F. Flaniinio Calb, an Italian, upon the Beatification5 ofthe Blessed Luigi Gonzaga, who was also a Father of the

Society. In the Even ing the Portugals of quality passedabout the streets in a Maskerade, accompanyed withChariots and Musick ; about twelve of us went out of theHouse of Sig: Antonio Baraccio, all clothed in the same

1 See ante, p. 170, note 4.2 T he bo dy was buried at M alacca in 1552, and trans por ted to Goa

in 1553-3 See ante, p. 170, note 2. Some further de tails may be here noted.

The process of canonization (which is probably derived from theancien t Rom an rite of deification) is precede d by a pane gyric of thedece ased person by one of the Consistorial advo cates. Th e decree ofcanonization is then prono unced by the Pop e, who appo ints a day forthe ceremony, at which the Pope and Cardinals are all dressed inwhite, and the Church of St. Peter is hung with gorgeous tapestry.

4 See ante, p. 185, note 3.5 See ante, p. 170, no te 2. Beatification is the act by which th e

Pope declares a person beatified, or blessed, after his (or her) death.T he corpse an d relics of the future saint are thenceforth exposed tothe veneration of all good Christians, but his body and relics are notcarried in process ion until after canonization. In the former cere-mony the Pope merely grants the privilege of worshipping, but in thelatter decrees, ex cathedra, the sanctity of the deceased person.



41 2 A DIVERTISEMENT.

Livery, which I took care to get made according to my

Phansie,1

and I ordered it after the fashion of the ancien tRom an W arriors, just as th e ancient Em perors use to bepictured ; the colours were Carnation and W hite , withseveral Impresses on the breast, every one after his ownPhansie ; it appear'd very well by night, and was the bestand grea test Body of the whole M askerade. I bore formy Impress a Blaze of Flam es, with this Italian verse ofTasso :

Men dolci si, ma non men calde al core, 2

which Impress I have been wont to use since the death ofmy W ife Sitti Maani? The embroidery W ork of my clotheswas wholly Flames, onely distinguished here and therewith Tears which shewed my grief.

On February the eighteenth, in the Morning, solemn Masswas sung and a Sermon made upon the Canonization ofthe Saints in San Paolo Vecchio. ̂ In the afternoon Listsand a Quintain and a Ring6 being p repared before theChurch of Gt'eszi,6 many great Portugal Gentlemen, richlyclothed, came to run Carreers7 both at the one and theother, giving Divertisement to the ladies who stood be-

1 An obsolete (but more correct) mode of spelling "fancy", con-tracted from v< phantasy".

2 See La Gerusalemme Liberata, Ca nto xii, 97 : " Less pleasin g inform, but of heart as warm."

3 See ante, pp. iii, and 45, note 2, and 122, note 3.4 See ante, p. 186, note.6 " Lists" strictly me ans a place en closed within bo und s, the word

"lis t" formerly being used for "bo und ary ", or "limit". Th e word"quintain" is of uncertain derivation, but is supposed to have originallymeant an open space, or fifth part of a camp (see Imperial Diet.).

Tilting at a ring is a well-known form of equestrian sport, muchpractised at the present day by men and ladies (English) in India.

6 See ante, p. 164, note 2.7 Th e word " career" originally m ean t th e act of runn ing, bu t is now

more generally used to den ote the progress of anyon e in som e definitecourse of life.



A SOLEMN PROCESSION. 4 1 3

holding them on Balconies1 and Scaffolds.2 The like theydid afterwards in the street of San Paolo Vecchio.

On Febmary the n ineteenth a very solemn Processionwas made from San Paolo Vecchio to Giesii, through theprincipal streets of the C ity : which Procession exceededall the rest in number of Pageants, Chariots and Ships,and other Erections, filled with people who representedseveral things, and good Musick, accompanyed withseveral Dances on Foot, and many other brave devices:of all which things I speak not, because I have a printedRelation thereof by me. In the rear of the Processionwas carried by many of the Fathers, dressed in their Copes,the Body of San Francesco Sciavier, inclos'd in a fair andrich Silver Coffin,3 with a Silver Canopie over it, made verygallant, and the Effigy4 of the Saint behind. Then came,a great Standard with the pourtraytures of the Saints,

carry 'd likewise by some of the Fa thers ; and after tha t,all the Crosses of their Parishes of Salsette,5 and onely oneCompany of the Fryers of Saint Francis. 6 Of the otherReligious Orders in Goa none appeared h ere ; becausethey said they would not go in the Processions of the

1 From the Persian Bdlkhdnah, an open window.2

According to the Imperial Diet., " scaffold" is really a pervertedform of catafalco, which is derived from falco, " a beam", with thestem cata (view) prefixed.

3 Th is silver coffin is still to be seen, with its con ten ts, at Goa , andis describ ed in " A R ecen t Visit to Goa" {Murray's Magazine ofNovember 1890) as " crowned by figures of angels wrought in silver,with incidents in Xav ier's life portr aye d in embossed work". It issaid to be an "artistic gem", and the quantity of silver used in its con-struction is estima ted to have been 300 lb. It was formerly studde dwith jewels. (See also Fo nsec a's Sketch of Goa, Hunter 's Gazetteer,and Eastwick's Handbook of Bombay?)

4 Th is is not the present silver imag e of the S aint, which was erectedin 1670, as the gift of D on a M aria of Portug al. (See Eastwick 'sHandbook of Bombay, p. 222, and Fonseca's Sketch of Goa.)

6 See ante, p. 392, note 2, c See ante, p. 156, no te 3.



4 1 4 PROCESSION DEI PASSI.

Jesuits, since the Jesuits went not in those of others. W iththis Procession, which ended about noon, ended also thesolemnities for the abovesaid Canonizations.

11.—On February the twenty-fifth, this day being the firstSunday of Len t this year, the Augustine Fathers, accord-ing to custom, made a solemn Procession, which they call" dei Passi , in reference to the steps which our Lordmade in his Passion, conducted to several places. Theycarried in Procession a Christ, with the Cross on hisshoulders, and many went along disciplining and whippingthemselves, being cloth'd with white sack-cloth, gallantand handsome, very gravely according to the humor of theNation. In several places of the City certain Alta rs wereplac'd, where the Procession stood still ; and, after sometime spent in singing, the Christ turn'd backwards, repre-senting that passage1 " Coiiversus ad Filias Jerusalem,

dixit Mis, Noliie fiere super me , etc. A t which turn ing ofthe sacred Image the people, who were very numerous andfill'd the whole streets, lamented and utter'd very g reatcries of Devotion. At length the Procession, being cometo the Church Delia Gratia} where it ended, after theAugustine Nunris (whose Convent3 stands near that of theFryers in the same Piazza) had sung a while, an Image," del volto Santo (of our Lord's Countenance), like that atRome? was shown to the people, gather'd together in thesaid Piazza, from a window of one of the Bell-turrets whichare on either side of the front of the said Church ; and

1 Gospel of St. Luke, ch. xxiii, v. 28.- Th is chu rch is not mentioned (by this nam e) in the autho rities

referred to.3

The convent of St. Monica, ma rked No . 20 in the Plan of Goa,ante, p. 154. It was closed in 1889, but is still in good rep air. It is avast building, but of no architectural merit. (See Eas twic k's Handbookof Bombay, p. 227.)

4 Fo r a history of this portrait, see M rs. Jam eso n s History of OurLord in Art, vol. i. p. 38.



A PRIEST-RIDDEN CITY. 41 5

so the Solemnity ended. But the above-mention'd Alta rsin the streets are every Fryday during Lent adorn'd in thesame manner, and visited by the people every day andalso at many hours of the night; just as the Church ofSaint Peter at Rome is visited every Fryday of March ; andthey call this visiting, " Correr os Passos , that is goingabout and visiting the steps of our Lord ; which servesthe people during this time of Lent no less for devotionthan for pastime.

On March the first there was also another Procession inGoa of the Disciplinanti} which I went not to see ; thelike is made every Fryday during all Lent, and therefore Ishall not stay to describe it. I believe there is no Cityin the world where there are more Processions than inGoa all the year long ; and the reason is because theReligious Orders are numerous, and much more than the

City needs2; they are also of great authority and very rich,

and the People, being naturally idle and addicted to Shews,3

neglecting other Cares of more weight and perhaps moreprofitable to the Publick, readily employ themselves inthese matte rs ; which, however good as sacred ceremoniesand parts of divine worship, yet in such a City as thiswhich borders upon Enemies and is the Metropolis of a

Kingdom lying in the midst of Barbarians and so alwayesat Warr, and where nothing else should be minded butArm s and Fleets, seem according to worldly Policy un-profitable and too frequent, as also so great a number

1 T his is the n am e giver, to those who voluntarily inflict corpo ralpunishment on themselves by way of mortification, similarly to thewell-known sect of fanatics called Flagellantes, who arose in Italy inthe 13th cen tury . A grap hic desc ription of a modern self-flagellation,similar to that he re referred to by our traveller, will be found in thenotes to Childe Harold (Canto iv), by Mr. Hobho use.

2 See ante, p. 156, note 7.3 See ante, p. 161, note i.



4 1 6 STRANGE DEVOTIOX.

of Religious and Ecclesiastical persons is burdensome to

the State and prejudicial to the Militia.1

In the Evening of every Fryday of Lent there is aSermon upon the Passion in the Church of Giesu1; and solikewise in other Churches, but upon other dayes andhours. At the end of these Serm ons certain Tabernac lesare open'd, and divers figures, representing some passagesof the Passion (according to the subject of the Sermon),are with lighted Tapers shewn to the People ; as one daythat of the Ecce Homo ; another day Our Lord with theCross upon his shoulders ; and the last day the Crucifix ;and so every day one thing suitable to the purpose.Oftentimes they make these figures move and turn, as theymade the Robe fall off from the Ecce Homo and discoverthe wounded Body ; at which sight the devout Peopleutter prodigious Cryes, and the W omen force themselvesto shriek out ; and the Signore, or Gentlewomen, are sozealous that they not onely cry out themselves, but maketheir M aids do so too and beat them even in the Church ifthey do not and that very loudly, whether they have awill to it, or no. St range devotion indeed

III.—On IMarcJi the third ten Ships of W arr w ere at lengthsent from Goa to the barr, or mouth, of the River, in order

to depart (as they did) within two or three dayes towardsOrmiiz to Riiy Freird 1 ; the Chief Captain of which wasSig: Sancho de Tear, Brother to the Veador* da Faênda,who was Trea surer and Captain of one of the Ships. OurFriend, Sig: Miclicl Pcreira Boralko, who was sometimeCaptain of the Galeons, went also ; his Brother, GiovanBoralho, was kill'd under Ruy Freira, in the battle with the

English at Giaskh

last year, being Admiral of that Fleet,

1 See ante, p. xv. 2 See ante, p. 164, note 2.3 See ante, p. 279. 1 Or Com ptroller.6 See ante, pp. xxvii, and 8, 9 and 10, and p. 4, note 2,



TH E GREAT MOGUL. 41 7

which next to the General1 is the prime charge, havingbeen many times before Chief Captain, as they speak, orGeneral, in the Streight oiOrmits. I make particular men-tion of him upon account of his relationship to Sig. MichelePereira our Friend. But such a succour for Ormuz after solong a time is indeed a very inconsiderable matter. Yet,they say, other Ships are preparing to be sent after these.

On March the one and twentieth I took the Altitude ofthe Sun at Goa with my Astrolabe and found him to declineat noon from the Zenith towards the South fourteen degreesand forty minutes. He was this day in the thirtiethdegree of Pisces and, consequently, in the Equinoctialwithout any Declination ; so tha t w ithout m aking anySubtraction from, or Addition to, this number, Goa, that isthe City, will lye just so many degrees (140 40') from theEq uin oc tia l towards the N orth, and also have the N orthern

Pole elevated as much.On March the eight and twentieth news was brought to

Goa how the great Mogbl' 1 had caus'd all the English thatwere at his Court to be slain,8 and imprisoned all the rest th atwere at Siirat} As for those tha t were slain, some say itwas by the Mogbl's Order in way of punishment, and thatthey were hang'd and otherwise executed ; others say, itwas by chance, as they endeavour'd to defend themselvesby Arm s, when he sent onely to arrest them prisoners, ashe did those of Siirat; and this seems most likely. Be itas it will, this Accident may easily disturb their Commercesom ething in tha t Country. The occasion is reported thus.A few dayes, or moneths, ago, the English in Siirat ap-

1 So in original. ~ See ante, p. 30, note 1.3 Th is alleged massa cre is not mentioned in the historical annals of

he time referred to by the editor.1 See ante, p. 18, no te 2. Th e imprisonm ent of the English res idents

at Siirat, he re referred to, is not m ention ed in the ordin ary works ofreference,

E £





SULTAN CHORROM. 4 1 9

from the Sea; and one to whom that little which is to behad from the Sea (how great soever it may be) is nothing,and nothing he accounts i t ; because it accrues rather tosome small Captain of his, as the Governour of Surdt, andthe like, than to the King himself. So what is he con-cern'd for it ? Bu t indeed he will be concern'd for suchan injury done to him in his own jurisdiction, as theEnglish have done by making reprisal on Ships, whichPrinces much inferior to the Mogbl would not havesuffer'd from any admitted as Friends into their Countries.Besides, the grievances alledg'd by the English were butpretences, and the Mogbl's Ministers had their Reasonsfor them ; wherefore the case ought to have been heardbefore falling to violence; and, let the matter be how itwill, 'twas just for him to be Judge in his own Country,and that this respect should be shewn him, if the English

would have taken this course ; if not, or if he would not dothem Justice, they were alwayes at liberty to go out of hispower, and so make Warr against him by Sea upon betterterm s. Concerning the Affairs of the Mogbl with his Son,they said that Sultan Chorrom} having been twice routed,2

had at last retreated with some few followers into theDominions of Cutab-Scidlft; and that his Father had givenover pursuing him and, being retir'd to his own Court, lefthim there in quiet ; that Cutab-Scidh did not assist himout of awe of his Father,* nor yet drive him out of hisTerritories out of respect to himself, but let him enjoy thepossession of a certain small circuit in his Country towhich he had retir'd.

IV.—-Concerning Persian affairs we heard a while since,

1 Or Kharram; see ante, p. 59.2 At Mewdt, and near Allahabad; see Elphinstone's India, pp.

497 and 498.3 Or Kutb-Shah; see ante, p. 147, note 4, and p. 148, note 5.4 I.e., the Em peror Jah ang ir; see ante, p. 52.

E E 2



42O TH E WAR OF ORMUZ.

and it was verifi'd, th at no t only th e English Ships weregone thither, according to their custom, for the Trade ofSilk, but also those of the Hollanders which come to Surd/;perhaps because the Hollanders are minded to set up aTraffick thithe r too, as I understood from a good handlast year at Surdt. In the mean time other Ships andGaleons are preparing at Goa to be sent to Ormtiz}

On April the tenth three Galeons freighted with Victualsdeparted from Goa to Ruy Freira for the war of Ormuz?as two other Ships had done a few days before, besides theabove-mentioned ten ; and order was given for three otherGaleons to go from Mozambique* with people sufficient toarm all the six ; because the former three of Goa carried noSoldiers, but only Sea-men. The y carried also from Goa aPetard,4 wherewith they said they intended to attemptthe little false Gate of Ormuz which stands towards the

Sea, and several other preparations of War.On the twenty-ninth of the same month, being the day

of S. Pietro Martire? who, they say, was the Founder8 of

1 Steante, p. 2, not e 1.2 See ante, p. 279.3 On the east coast of Africa, where the Portuguese established a

factory in 1508. Th is place an d Sofala are the only places of im-portance on the coast of Africa still held by the Portuguese.4 Peta rds are said to have been invented by the Fre nch Hu guen ots

in 1579, and to have been first used at the siege of Cahors in thatyear.

5 Peter de Castelnau, one of the monks of Citeaux and of themonastery of Fortfroide, in Narbonnese Gaul, who was commissionedby Pope Innocent III to preach against the heresies of the Waldensesin 1203, and who was in this way the instru me nt for founding theInquisition. H e was assa ssina ted in the dom inions of the Count ofToulouse, and beatified in 1208.

6 Th e Inquisition was founded by Pope Innoc ent II I early in the13th century, when he app ointed a comm ission for th e perse cution ofthe W aldense s. It was established in the Po rtugu ese dom inions byKing John III in 1536.



THE INQUISITOR S FESTIVAL. 42 1

the Inquisition ̂against Hereticks, the Inquisitors of Goamade a Festival before their House of the Inquisition2

which is in the Piazza of the Cathedral and was some-times the Palace of Sabaio? Prince of Goa, when thePortugals took it, whence it is still call'd la Piazza diSabaio. After solemn Mass had been sung in the Churchof San Dominicof as Vespers had been the day before, inpresence of the Inquisitors, who, coming to fetch the Fryersin Procession, repair'd thereunto in Pontificalibus, in theevening, many carreers5 were run on horse-back by thePortugal Gentry, invited purposely by the Inquisitors ; anda day or two after (for this Evening was not sufficient for somany things) there was in the same Piazza a Hunting, orBaiting, of Bulls after the Spanish fashion ; but the Beasts,being tam e and spiritless, afforded little sp ort ; so tha t Ihad not the curiosity to be present at it. This is a new

Festival lately instituted by the present Inquisitors, who, Ibelieve, will continue it yearly hereafter.6

1 See. ante, p. 156, note 2. T he Inquisition at Goa was abolished byRoyal letter in 1774, re-esta blished und er D ona M aria I in 1779,and finally a bolished in 1812 (see Eastw ick's Handbook of Bombay,p. 225), or in 1814, acc ord ing to Mr. Sa nd berg {Murray's Magazine,Nov . 1890). See also Fo nsec a's Hist. Sketch of Goa, p. 219, andCapt. Marryat's tale of The Phantom Ship.

2 M arked No . 11 in the Plan of Goa, ante, p. 154. It was destroye din 1829, and is now merely a " hill of bricks and stones and ma nymo und s". It formerly covered a space of two acres, and containedthree large halls and 200 prisoners'' cells. (See " A Recen t Visit toGoa" in Murray's Magazine, Nov. 1890; and Pinkerton's Travelsvol. ix, p. 234; and Fonseca's Sketch of Goa, and De Kloguen'sHistorical Sketch of Goa.)

3 Sa baio is evidently identical with Saba ym Delcan i (? De kka ni),mentioned by Barbosa in East Coast of Africa and Malabar (p. 75 of

Ha kluyt edition). See ante, p. 143, note 5.4 Marked No. 32 in the Plan of Goa, ante, p. 154. It was com-pleted in 1564, and demolished in 1841.

5 See ante, p. 412.6 In Captain Marryat's tale of The Phantom Skip will be found a



4 2 2 NEW S FROM MASCAT

On May the tenth a Packet-boat from Mascdt1 arrived at

Goa with Le tters dated April the twenty-fourth, confirmingwhat had some dayes before been rumor'd, that the Kingof Persia had taken Baghdad? and the Persians wereabout to go against Bassord3 by Sea, bu t were divertedfrom their designs by the Portugal Fleet, which they heardwas prepa ring to succour that City, and by some Ships oftheirs which they continually keep there in favour of theTurks against the Persians to guard the Mouth of theRiver, which is Euphrates* and Tigris* joyn'd together. Th esame Boat brought news also that twelve Ships werealready departed from Mascdt under the conduct of myfriend Sig. Michele Pereira to begin a new Siege of Ormuz;and that Ruy Freird* waited for the Galeons that he mightgo thither too with the greater Fleet.

graphic description of Goa in the zenith of its pride, with its festivalsand processions.

1 See ante, p . 158, note 7.2 Baghdad rem ained in the ha nd s of the P ersia ns until 1638, when

it was taken by the Turks under Sultan Amurath IV, and has re-ma ined in their possession ever since th at time. It is finely seated onthe E . ban k of th e river Tig ris, in La t. 33° 20' N. , an d L ong . 44° 46'E . It was formerly (before the discovery of the route to India by theCape) the centre of a very extensive commerce, and still continues to

be a place of considerable imp ortance , hav ing ma nufactories of silk,cotton, wool and leather, besides an iron foundry.

3 Sometimes written Basra. T h e town is in L at. 30° 30' N ., andLon g. 47° 45' E., on th e W . b ank of the Eu ph rate s, about 65 m ilesfrom the mo uth of the river. It is said to have b een founded abo utthe middle of the seventh century, and, previously to the discovery ofthe route to India round the Cape, was the most considerable tradingtown of Western Asia.

4 This river rises nearErzeroum (Long. 410 36 'E ., Lat. 39° 57' N .),

an d h as a course of abou t 1,350 miles before its jun ction with th eTigris, 35 miles above Bassora.6 T he Tigris rises n ear D iarbekir (37° 55' N., and 390 22' E.), and

joins the Eu ph rate s near Basso ra. It forms the boun dary betweenPersia and the Turkish territory.

0 See ante, p. 279.



TURKISH AFFAIRS. 42 3

If it be true that Sciah Abbas1 has taken Baghdad I amconfident that in the long run Bassora will fall into hishands too : if the Portugals may hinder him by sea, theycannot by land ; and 'tis a clear case tha t if he hathBaghdad, he intends also to have the port of Bassora,which is of great importance. Tha t he has taken Baghdadmay very well be true, during the present ill State ofthe Turkish Affairs, after the late T um ults in tha t Court,and the death of Sultan Suleiman'} who was lately murder'dand his formerly depos'd Uncle, Sultan Mustafa? restor'd tothe Empire, as I was lately assur'd here by an Armenianwho told me that he was at Constantinople in the time ofthese Revolutions, and that Sultan Mustafa was very lothto re-assume the Government by reason of the ill deport-ment of the Ministers, and tha t he would have no moreWomen, or Concubines, but had married and dismissed all

that were in the Seraglio4

'; that if any woman came intohis presence he ran at her with his Ponyard, professing tolead a chaste and religious life, not meaning to have otherSuccessors than his Brother's two Sons, the elder of whichis Sultan Mahomad? Son of Sultana Kiosine, who, I alwayesbeliev'd, would by his Mother's Arts one day come to rule,and now without doubt, whether she be living or not, (if

1 See ante, p. 402, note 1.2 T his seems to be a mistak e for Osman (the 2nd), who was assas-

sinated in 1622.3 Sultan Mustafa I, who twice sat on the throne.4 The word Seraglio is here used in its usual sense of women's

ap artm ents . But its true m eanin g is that of a " large ho use" or" palace", an d the Seraglio of the Sultan of Co nstantinople includesthe residen ce of all the officers and dep end ents of the C ourt. T hegrand entrance on the western side is the Baba-hoomajin, or " SublimePorte", which is, as is well known, the official title of the TurkishCourt.

0 He eventually succeeded to the throne, as Muhammad IV, in1649.







4 2 6 A FATAL CONCLAVE.

On May the seventeenth, by a Merchant's Ship from Bas-

sora1

which arrived at Goa the night before, we had morecertain intelligence by Luigi Medices, through Ramiro, theVenetian Consul at Aleppo, that Pope Gregory X V died onthe twenty-ninth of July 1623, having been sick only fivedays. The Report of the Conclave saith that the Pope diedon the eight of July, the Cardinals'-enter'd into the Conclave3

on the nineteenth, and tha t on the sixth of August UrbanVIII was created Pope; that Card. Montalto died a littlebefore the Pope, and Card. Ludovisio ̂was made V ice-Chan-cellor in his stead ; and the Chamberlainship, being vacantby the death ofAldobrandino, was conferr'd upon the youngCardinal of the same name ; that the new Pope Urban wassick for some daycs after his Election ; but, afterwards re-covering, was crown'd upon the day of S. Michael the Arch-angel ; that, besides the Pope, almost all the Cardinals fellsick through the inconveniences of the Conclave in so hot aseason ; and many of them died, as Piguatelli, Serra, Sauli,Gozzadino and Sacrati ; and the Card. Ghcrardi and AIdo-brandino remained still grievously sick ; and that of theConclavists there died about six ty ; which indeed was a great

1 See ante, p. 422, note 3.- The Cardinals were originally merely the principal priests of the

parishes of Rome, and it was not until the eleventh century that theywere established as a " College". U p to 112 5 the C ollege consisted of 5 2or 53 Card inals. Th e num ber was afterwards reduce d to 20 or 25, butwas subsequently raised by Pope Leo X to their present number of 70.

" T he right of election of the Pop e by the Ca rdinals was estab lishedby Pope Alexand er I II in 1179. Previously to th at date the Pop eswere elected by the " tumu ltuary votes of the clergy and people".(See Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, vol. vi, p. 353.)

Th e w ord '' conclave" is used for the apa rtm ent in which eachCardinal is confined during the progress of the election, as well as forthe general assembly of Cardinals. As to the cerem onies atten dingthe election of a Pope , see Gibbon, vol. vi. p. 3 ; 1. T he " roncla-.pe'

was instituted by I'upe Gregory X in 1274.4 This Cardinal was nephew of Pope Gregory XV.



AFFAIRS OF EUROPE. 42 7

num ber for a Conclave tha t lasted so short a while. Tha tTelli1 {Tilly), the E mperor's General, had given a greatrout to Alberstat; and the Em peror's Affairs in Germanypass'd very well. That 'twas true a confederacy was madeagainst Spain about the business of the Valtelin betweenFrance, Venice, and Savoy, but that it will proceed nofurther, because Spam had deposited the Valtelin in thehands of the Pope. Th at the Prince of Urbino ̂ was dead,and consequently that State would fall to the Church; whichis a thing of much importance. Tha t at Venice the DogePriuli was dead, and a new Doge already elected, oneContarini, an eminent Person. Tha t there was a greatPlague, and that the King of France had subdu'd almost allthe Garrisons of the Hereticks, except Rochelle? which healso hop'd shortly to reduce to obedience. Tha t theEspousals were pass'd between the Infanta of Spain and

the King of England's Son, with hope that he is already aCatholick. Tha t they have given her in dower the pre-tensions of Holland and Zealand, and money, on conditionthat Liberty of Conscience be granted in England and fourChurches for Catholicks built in London, which was alreadyexecu ted, public W ritings thereof going about in print ;besides divers other Affairs of Europe of less consideration.

VI.—On May the nineteenth, one Ventura da C osta, aNative of Canaraf was married. He was a domestickservant to Sig. Alvaro da Costa, a Priest and our Friend,Lord of a Village near Goa; for whose Sake, who waswilling to honour his servant's wedding in his own House,

1 Th is celebra ted Gene ral (originally a Jes uit) w as bo rn in 1559,and died in 1632 after a brilliant military career.

2 T he last representativ e of the Delia Rovera family, Prince s ofUrbino, who had been invested with that Duchy by Pope Julius II.

3 The well-known town of Rochelle, the capital of Lower Charente,was not taken for the Catholics until 1637 by Louis XIII of France.




428 A KAMARESE WE DD ING.

I and some other Friends went thither to accom pany the

Bride and the Bridegroom to the Church of San Biagio}a little distant in another Village, which was in the Parishof the Bride, where the Ceremonies were perform'd inthe Evening for coolness' sake. Th e Com pany was verynumerous, consisting of many Portugal Gentlemen, such,perhaps, as few other Canarini- have had at their marriages.The Bride and Bridegroom came under Umbrellas of Silk,garnish'd with silver, and in other particulars the Cere-monies were according to the custom of the Portugals;oncly I observ'd that, according to the use of the Country,in the Company before the Married Persons there march'da part\' of fourteen, or sixteen, men oddly cloth'd after theIndian fashion, to wit naked from the girdle upward, andtheir Bodies painted in a pa ttern w ith white Sanders,3 andadorn 'd with bracelets and necklaces of Gold and Silver,and also with flowers and turbants4 upon their heads, inseveral gallant fashions, and streamers of several colourshanging behind them. From the girdle downw ards, overthe hose which these Canarini use to wear short, like ours,they had variously colour'd clothes girt about them withstreamers, flying about and hanging down a little below theknee; the rest of the leg was naked, saving that they had

sandals on their feet. These dane'd all the way both goingand returning, accom panying their dances with chauntingmany Verses in their own Language, and beating the littlesticks which they carry'd in their hands, after the fashionof the Country, formerly taken notice of at Ikkeri:' Andindeed the dances of these Canarini are pleasant enough ;so that in the Festivities made at Goa for the Canonization9

1 This church does not appear in the Plan of Goa at p. 154.- I.e., natives of Kanara. 3 See ante, p. 99, note 2.1 See ante, p. 248, note 4. See ante, p. 258.6 See ante. p. 170, note 2.



A GALLEY FROM MOZAMBIQUE. 4 2 9

of the Saints Ignatiox and Sciavier,2 though in other thingsthey were most solemn and sumptuous, yet, in my opinion,there was nothing more worthy to be seen for delight thanthe many pretty and jovial dances which interven'd in thisTragedy.3 The marry'd Couple being return 'd from Churchto the Bride's House, we were entertain'd with a handsomeCollation4 of Sweet-meats in the yard, which was whollycover'd over with a Tent, and adorn'd with Trees and greenboughs, the Company sitting round, and the marry'dCouple, on one side at the upper end, upon a great Carpetunder a Canopy. After which we all return'd home, andthe Husband stay'd that night to sleep in his Wife'sHouse.

VII .—On May the twentieth a Galley of the Fleet ex-pected from Mozambique5 arriv'd at Goa. It brought Sig.Don Nugno Alvares (sometime General there, and Supreme

Governour of all that Coast of Cafuria,6

comprising underhis Government the Rivers of Coama, Moinbace} and asmuch of Africa as the Portugals have from the Cape ofGood Hope to the streight of Meka &) and with him a. Jesuitthat was a Bishop, one of those that were to go intoÊthiopia? Th e Patriarch10 deputed thither, being also aJesuit, remain'd behind in another Galeot, as likewise didthe Ships of the last years Portugal Fleet, which came onby little and little; they brought news of the miserable

1 See ante, p. 170, note 3.2 See ante, p. 170, note 4.3 T his w ord is, of course, her e used in its m ore strictly classical

sense of any dramatic representation.4 See ante, p. 381, note 4.5 See ante, p. 214, and 420, note 3.6 For Kaffraria, or Kaffre-land, south of Mozambique.7 T he Coavo and Mombas rivers of modern maps, in Lat. 8° 33' S.

and 4° 15' S. respectively, on the east coast of Africa.8 See ante, p. 399, note 1.a See ante, p . 131, no te 1, 10 Or chief Father,



4 3 ° WRECK OF A PORTUGUESE SHIP.

wrack1 of a Ship call'd San Giovanni, which two years

before set forth from Gon for Portugal, very rich ; and,meeting with the Dutch by the way, after a long fight beingtotally shatter'd, ran aground upon the Coast of Cafuria ;so that, saving the people remaining after the fight and theother disasters, and the Jewels, all was lost: which people,refusing both the offer of good entertainment made themby the L ord of the place, who was a Friend to the Portugals,till, upon advice sent to Mozambique, they might havepassage thither, and also refusing his counsel to travel farwithin Land, where, he said, they would have less troublein passing many Rivers, (which otherwise they would meetwith) and would find an unarmed and more hospitablepeople, but unadvisedly, after the inconsiderate humor ofthe Portugals, resolving to go by land to Mozambique and totravel always far from the Sea am ongst barbarous inhos-

pitable people who eat human flesh, and withall notbehaving themselves well with them in their passage, butout of a foolish tem erity giving many occasions of dis-pleasure, were assaulted in many places by the said Cafiri;'often spoyl'd and rob'd, and many of them kill'd ; so that ofthe Women that were with them some were taken, othersstrip'd naked, till, after a thousand inconveniences andsufferings, and, as some say, about eight moneths' travellingon foot, during which they were fain to wade throughabundance of Rivers, at last no more of the Companyarriv'd at Mozambique than twenty-seven persons ; all therest being either slain by the way, or dead of hardship s,excepting some few that were kept slaves by the Cafiri;amongst whom was a Portugal Gentlewoman of quality,whom they kept to present to their King, without hope, I

1 This word, derived from the Danish vrag, is the old form of' wreck".

- See ante, p. 429, note 6. ; Or Kaffres.



AN ENVOY FROM PERSIA. 4 3 1

believe, of ever being deliver'd ; a misery indeed worthy ofcompassion The Jewels sent from Goa to be sold inPortugal were almost all sav'd and deposited at Mozambiquein the M isericordia}; some say to be restor'd to the owners,and others say at the instance of the King's Officer, whopretends the King 's R ight to them as shipwrackt goods ;yet most conclude that the case will not be so judg'd, butthat they will be restor'd to the owners upon payment ofsome small matter to those who sav'd them.

VIII .—On May the three and twentieth I visited theabove-mention'd Bishop now arriv'd in Goa, at the Colledgeof San Paolo Novo? He was call'd Doni Joanno da Rocha,and is nominated, but not consecrated, Bishop of Heliopoli.

On the twenty-sixth I visited in the Convent of ourLady della Gratia, F. Fra: Manoel della Madre di Dio,formerly known to me in Persia, and now Prior of the

Convent of Spahan? who the day before arrived at Goain a Shallop which had been long expected and judg'dlost, having been seven mone ths in coming from Mascat.^He said that he came about Affairs of his Order and theConvents of Persia (for besides that which I left at Spahan,they have since made one at Sciraz,5 and another at Bas-sora? and they daily m ultiply) yet withall it was rumoured

that he was sent by the King of Persia to treat with theVice-Roy about the Matters of Ormuz; and I believe it,although he spoke nothing of it himself; otherwise, me-thinks, 'tis not likely they would have let him come out ofPersia without the King 's express Licence, or tha t theKing would have granted it in time of W ar, unless he hadcome about some particular business of his. He informedme that all my friends in Persia were well, and so did

1 See ante, p. 382, note 4. 2 See ante, p. 185, note 3.3 Now generally written as Ispahan, the name meaning a " rendez-

vous", or place of meeting. 4 See ante, p. 158, note 7.5 See ante, p. 9, note 1. ll See ante, p. 422, note 3.



4 3 2 TH E SOUTH-W EST MONSOON.

a Letter of F. Fra: Giovanni to his Provincial at Goa,wherein mention was made of me, giving me intelligenceof the well-fare of all my Friends, and how Sitti Laali, myconnection by marriage, had brought forth a Son, whom shehad nam'd Avedik, from Chogia Avedik, his Fathe r's Un cle;which News was stale, for I knew it before my coming outof Persia; and, indeed, all the Le tters F. Manoel broughtwere of a very old date ; to me he brough t none, becausemy Friends there conceiv'd that I was gone out of Indiainto Europe.

On May the seven and twentieth a Ship of the PortugalFleet that was coming from Mozambique ̂ arrived in thePort of Mormogon1; it entered not into the River of Goa,because the mouth of the River, by reason of the latenessof the season, was insecure and began to be stopped ; forevery year all the mouths of the Rivers and Ports of this

Coast are fill'd with sand during the time of Rain,3 whereinthe West wind blows very tempestuously, and are open'dagain in September when the Rain ends. Th e Port ofMormogon, as I have elsewhere said,* is in the same Islandof Goa, in the other mouth of the m ore Sou thern R iver,where sometimes old Goa stood, by which goods are con-vey'd by Boat from the Ships to the City, but by a longer

way, going behind round the Island.On May the twenty-eighth in the Evening, at the time of

Ave Maria, the Bells of almost all the Churches of Goa,saving that of the Jesuits, were rung for the Beatification5

of two Fryers of the Order of San Domenico? whereof thisShip had brought News.

On May the twenty-ninth another Portugal Ship of the

1 See ante, p. 420, note 3.2 See ante, p. 154, note 2, and p. 329, note 1.3 See ante, p. 32, note 2. 4 See p. 392, ante.5 See ante, p. 170, no te 2, and p. 411, no te 50 See ante, p. 189, note 5.



MISSION TO ET HIO PIA . 43 3

Fleet arrived, and, within two or three dayes after, all theother Ships expected from Mozambique; and in one ofthem the Jesuit, deputed as Patriarch into Êthiopia, whitherhe, with two Bishops, whereof one was dead by the way,and many other Jesuits, was sent at the instance of theKing of the same Country, who, they say, is called SultanSag/ied, 1 and professes himself a Roman Catholick already,with great hopes of reducing all that Kingdom to theChurch in a short time. As for the progress which theJesuits affirm daily to be made in those Countries, being2 Iknow nothing of them but by the information of others, Irefer you to their Annual Letters; and it suffices me tohave touched here on what I saw concerning the same, to witthe expedition of this Patriarch, Bishops and many Fatherswho were sent thither by several wayes, attempting to opena passage into those Countries, lest such Commerce might

be hindered by the Turks, who are Masters of some of thosePasses. So tha t the F . Visitor of the Jesuits told me theyhad this year sent many people for Êthiopia, not onelyby the Arabian Gulph,3 and the Territories of the Turksbordering upon it, but also by Cascemf a Country outsideArabia but govern'd by Arabians, by Mozambique andMombaza? Countries of the Portugals, on the Coast ofAJrick, by Cafraria? Angola, and Congo1; that so by theseseveral wayes they might send enough, being2 the Kingdem anded at least two hundred of their Fa th ers ; and 'tismanifest that if the Conversion goes forward, as they pre-suppose, the Country is so large that there will be work

1 See pp. 137 and 446. 2 F or "sin ce" ; see ante, p. 28, note I.3 O r Red Sea. See p. 11, note 1.4 Probably Kishm. See ante, p. 2, note 2.6 See ante, p. 420, note 3, and p. 429, note 7.6 See ante, pp. 429 and 430, note 2.7 This is one of the earliest references to the Congo route.

F F



43 4 FRIENDLY MEETINGS.

enough for a grea ter number of Fa the rs and ReligiousCatholicks.

IX.—On June the second we accom pany'd, with a solemnCavalcade, Sig: Andrea de Quadro from the House ofSig: Gasparo di Melo, Captain of the City, to the JesuitsColledge1; where, by the hands of the same Fa the rs, wasgiven him the degree of Master of Arts, tha t is of Ph ilo-sophy ; the said Fathers having by Apostolical Authorityjurisdiction in India to confer the said degree, and thatof Doc tor ; for which reason I here have taken notice ofthis action.

On June the seventh I visited in the said Colledge of theJesuits the Patriarch of Êthiopia, one of tha t Society, who isnam'd Don Alfonso Luigi de Santi ; he told me much Newsfrom Rome, and of several of my Relations whom he knew,but it was stale News. The Patriarch and his Fa the rs had

been inform'd of me, both by the Fa the rs of Goa and by aPortugal Souldier call'd Pero Lopez, whom I knew inPersia, and who went to Rome with my Letters, where helodg'd many dayes in my House, from thence pass'd intoSpain, and at length return'd into India, and came fromMozambique to Goa in the same Ship with the Patriarch.To gratifie whose desires of seeing me, upon their infor-

mation I visited him ; he not onely shew'd me manycourtesies and offers of serving me, with like cerem oniouswords, but himself and all his Fa the rs enter'd into anintimate Friendship with me, and agreed to hold mutualcorrespondence of Letters from ALthiopia to Rome, andwhere ever else I should happen to be. W e discours'dof many things, and he informed me concerning hisVoyage, and how Fathers might pass at any time intoÊthiopia from other parts, particularly from

1 See ante, pp. 142 and 185, note 2.



KIN G OF PERSIA'S EMBASSY. 4 3 5

inform'd him of the ALthiopick Language, and some goodBooks for learning it, etc.

On June the sixteenth, if I mistake not in Computation,for which I refer myself to better diligence, (which I shalluse with their Ephemerides of this year, in case I can pro-cure the same) the Moors were to begin their Rasandhan1

or Fast, of their 16332 year of the Hegira.X.—On June the twenty-fourth, being in a house to see

the careers3 of the Cavaliers who ran in the Street beforethe Vice-Roy, according to the yearly Custom in Goa uponS.John's Day, I hap ne dto meet with Sig. Luis de Mendoz a?Chief Captain of the Fleet wherewith I went to Calecut?and Sig: Bento, or Benedetto, or Freites Mascarenhas, in aPortugal Habit, who a few years before was taken by P iratesof Argiers,6 and carried a slave to Barbery; whence beingredeem ed and return'd into his own Country, he was

favourably look't upon by his King and sent again intoIndia as Captain of a Galeon. Th is Cavalier, besidesthe relation of his own misadventures, told me how QaraSultan (who in my time was sent Am bassador from theKing of Persia into Spain in answer to the Embassy ofDon Garcia de Silva y Figueroa, and travelled in the sameShip, before it was taken by the Pirates), died by the Way,having first substituted another of his Company to performhis charge ; which other Am bassador was taken with thesaid Ship and carried a slave into Argiers; whereof noticebeing given to the Persian Am bassador at Constantinople,

1 Properly Ramazan. See ante, p. 179, note 1.2 A misprint for 1033. 3 See ante, p. 412, note 7.4 See ante, p. 354. r> See ante, p. 344, note 1." For Algiers. Th e nam e is written as Argier in Shakespeare's

Tempest, Act i, Sc. 2. Th e nam e does not occur here in the originalItalian ; in it the w ords are " taken b y Morescki .

See ante, p. 188, note 4.F F 2



43 6 OFFERING OF FIRST-FRUITS.

an order was expected from thence what to do with him ;

which not coming before this Gentleman was liberated, hecould not tell what the issue was, but left him still aprisoner in Argiers}

XI.—On August the fifth the Indians were to celebratetheir solemn Festival of Washing and other Ceremoniesaccustomed to be performed at Narva? and mentioned byme in the last year's relation as to be celebrated on theseventeenth of the same month. And because theFeast-day fell twelve dayes sooner in this year than in thelast I perceived that the Indian year must be Lunar'*; orif it be Solar, as I think I have heard, it cannot be just, orequal, but to be adjusted requires some great and extrava-gant intercalation. I went not to Narva to see the Feast,because the place lies beyond the River* in the Territory ofthe Jl/oors, who at this time stood not upon good Term swith the Portugals. Neither did the Gentiles of Goa gothither for the same reason ; and, if I was not mis-informed,the)' expected a safe conduct from Idal-Sciah;' from Vid-Jiiaporl' 1 to go thither another da}'.

On August the ninth , two hours and forty minutes beforenoon (if the Calculation and Observation of ChristoferoBrano, or Boro, be true) the Sun was in the Z enith of Goa

and began to decline towards the South.On August the twenty-fourth, on which day the Fe as t of

St. Bartholomew uses to be celebrated, certain Officers,deputed for that purpose, with other Principal Personsentrusted with the superintendency of the Fields andAgriculture, offered to the Cathedral Church, and after-wards also to the Vice-roy, the first-fruits of the Fields,

1 In the original Algieri. 2 See ante, p. 186, note 5.3 Th e lunar year was adop ted in some par ts of Ind ia, an d the

solar year in others. All festivals are regu lated by the moon.4 The river Mandavi. 5 Or Adil Shah. See ante, p. 143, not e 5.6 See ante, p. 117, no te 2. More correctly Bijapur.



NEWS FROM ORMUZ. 4 3 7

to wit of Rice newly eared, which is the most substantia lof the fruits of the Territory of Goa.1 I was told likewisethat they made a Statue of an Elephant with Rice-straw,which 1 know not whether they carry'd about with them, orset up in some Piazza. Th is custom is practis'd annuallyupon the said day, because at that time precisely the saidfruit begins to ripen.

On August the twenty-seventh one Galeon (of fourthat were coming from Mascat? whither they had beensent last April with Provisions) arriv'd at Goa; theycame, by the Vice-roy's Order, to be ready, if occasionrequ ir'd, to afford new succours of large ships to be sentto Orniicz. This Ship related that the other threewere possibly return'd back again to the streights ofOrniicz, for fear of some Dutch Vessels which hover'dthereabouts ; but this Galeon, being driven out to Sea, and

having lost its company in the night, was forc'd to comedirectly forwards. It related further tha t Orniiiz had beenagain besieg'd a good while by the Captains of Ruy Freira,to wit first by Michel Pereira Boraglio our friend, andafterwards by another, whom he sent thither by turns,because thereby the task would be easier to the be-siegers : but tha t at the pa rting of these Galleys fromMascat Ruy Freira himself was upon the point to go tothe said Siege with all the Men and Vessels with oars hehad, which were about twenty, or twenty-five, Galeots, andmany less Morisco Vessels called Ternata's? A small pre -paration indeed to take Ormitz withall.

On September the second, a little before dayligh t, th esafe arrival of the annual Portugal Fleet was saluted by

1 See ante, p. 175, note 4. 2 See ante, p. 158, note 7.3 Should be Terradas. Th ey were light rowing-bo ats emp loyed

generally in carryin g supplies, but the term is also applied to sma llboa ts used in war. (See Commentaries of Afonso Dalboqiierque, vol.i, p. 105, Hakluyt edition.)



4 3 8 THE ANNUAL FLEET

all the Bells of Goa. It consisted of two M erchant Ships,lesser and lighter than the Carracks 1 which use to comein other years, one Galeon laden also with Merchandize,and order'd to return with the same Ships, in case it shouldnot be required at Goa for the W ar, and five otherGaleons equip'd for war, which were to remain at Goa withall the Soldiery, which was num erous and good, to be em-ploy'd as occasion should require . The Chief Captain of thisArmada was Sig: Nugno Alvares Botelho; the AdmiralSig: Giovan Pereira Cortereal, to whose diligence the happyand speedy arrival of this Fleet is attributed ; the like nothaving come to pass in many years, and that through thefault and greediness both of the Pilots and Merchants : forbefore, without keeping order, or rule, in the voyage, orobedience to the Generals, everyone endeavour'd to havehis Ship arrive first and alone. But this Sig. Gio. Pereira

Cortereal having written and presented a printed Discourseabout this m atter to the K ing, his Majesty approv'd thesame and gave strict charge that it should be observ'd withall exactness: and hence proceeded the good success ofthis Voyage.

This Fleet brough t news tha t the Prince of England wasdeparted from Spain without effecting the marriage be-

tween the two Crowns, because the Parliament of Englandwould not consent to it2: which, considering all the pre -

1 From a Portuguese word, carraca, a name given to large vesselsbuilt for voyages to India and South America, fitted for fighting aswell as for trade. In the year 1592 one of these vessels was cap-tured by Sir John Barrough, which is described as being of no lessthan 1,600 tons burthen, with thirty-two pieces of brass ordnance,

having seven decks, and measuring 165 feet in length.2 This is, of course, a misapprehension. There is no doubt thatthe people of England disapproved of the match, but the consent ofParliament was never asked. There were several causes which ledto the match being broken off. (See Hume's Hist, of England, vol.vi. i). 76.)



NEWS FROM EUROPE. 439

ceding transactions seems to me a strange case, and per-

haps the like hath scarce happened between Princes; unless

possibly there be some unknown mysterie in the business.

That the Frosts, having obstructed the mouth of a River in

HoLland, had caus'd a great inundation, which broke the

banks, or dikes, whereby they kept out the sea, and had done

much damage to the Country. Th at twelve Ships which

set forth from thence for India, being beset by the Spanish

Fleet off Dunkirk, were partly sunk and partly shatter'd

so th at they could not come to India. That the Catholicksin August last, upon the precise day whereon Urban VI I I

was created Pope, had obtain'd a signal victory 1 in Ger-

many against the Hereticks. Tha t great Fleets were pre-

paring in England, Spain and France, for unknown designs.

That the King of Spain was at Sevil, 2 and the Queen had

borne him a Daughter who was dead ; but the Daughter

of the Conte di Vidigueiraf present Vice-Roy here in India,had borne him a Son ; at which the Queen was much dis-

pleas'd with the King. And tha t in Portugal it was ex-

pected that the Arch-Duke Leopold should go to govern

that Kingdom.

XII.—On September the fifth the other three Galeons,

which I said were to come from Mascat^ arriv'd at Goa. The

cause of their delay was, as was rightly conjectur'd, that

they had discover'd an English Ship upon those Coasts,

and had spent some time in giving her chase, but in vain,

through the fault, perhaps, of the Portugal Captain who

was loth to fight her ; for one of them made up to her and

fought a while with her Artillery, but, perceiving her com-

panions came not to do the like, gave over, and, having

1 This was probably the victory g ained by Count Tilly over M ans-feld at Stadt Loo on August 23rd, 1623.

2 In the original w ritten as Siviglia.3 See ante, p. 175.4 See ante, p. 158, note 7.



4 4 ° CHRISTIANS OF ST. THOMAS.

given and receiv'd many shots, let her go without doing her

hurt and return'd to her company. The English Shipshevv'd m uch b ravery; for, seeing three Vesse ls comingagainst her, she waited to give them battle without fly-ing.

The above-said Galeons brought Letters which signi-fi'd that Muscat1 was molested with wars by the neigh-bouring Arabians; which, I conceive, may be upon someconfederacy with the King of Persia, thereby to divert thePortugals from the Siege of Ormitz. That Ortnhs waswell provided with Men and Vic tuals ; tha t, nevertheless,they hop'd it would be taken , if good succour were sentfrom Goa, particularly of Galeons to fight with the DutchShips which were expected to come to the Ports ofPersia to assist Oriniiz and recruit it with fresh soldiers.Of the English there is no mention, because, consideringthe late transactions in Spain, it is not known whetherthere will be W ar, or Peace, with them henceforward,though perhaps the Vice-Roy may know somethingprivately.

On September the twenty-ninth a Jesuit, whose name Iknow not, was consecrated here in their Church of Giesu1

Arch-Bishop3 of Angatnale* and also, as they speak in the

Portugal Language, da Scrra , that is, "of the Mountain",where live the Christians whom they call " di San Tome ?of the Chaldean Sect,'1 and som etime subject to the Schis-matical Patriarchs of Babylonia, but now of late yea rs (bythe diligence of the Portugals) Catholicks, and obedient to

1 See ante, p. 158, note 7, and p. 187, note 3.3

See ante, p. 164, note 2. 3

See ante, p. 199, note 2.4 A town in latitude 10° 20' N.. to the north-east of Cranganur.•' See ante, p. 199, note 1.0 Or Xestorians. They themselves do not accept this title, but

style themselves Xazaranies.



TH E VICEROY'S DILIGEN CE. 44 1

Rome1; his residence is in Cranganor? five leagues fromCocin* Northwards.

On October the one and twentieth proclamation was madeby the Vice-Roy's Order for the Souldiers to come andreceive Pay, in Order to their going to Ormiiz* TheArmado wherein they were to go was very long in pre -paring through want of money ; which the Vice-Roy wasvery diligent to raise, both from the Merchants and alsofrom the Gentiles, who consented to pay a certain Annual

1 These Christians are still to be found existing as a religious sect.Th ey were at one time an ind epen dent people, and elected a sovereignof their own. Th ey were much persecuted by the Portugu ese, inorder to compel them to become Rom an Catholics. W hen thePortuguese rule came to an end they regained their freedom, butremained divided in religion, and at present both the Syrian andRoman Catholic services are performed in the same church, and theSyrian division of the sect receives a superior from the Patriarch ofAntioch, thoug h before the Po rtuguese persecution they were governedby bishops deputed by the Nestorian Patriarch of Mosul (herecalled "o f Babylonia"). (See Eas twic k's Handbook of Madras, p .317.) An interes ting no te on these Christians (said to num ber asmany as 233,000 souls) will be found in Sir H . Yule's Cathay and theWay Thither, vol. i, p. 76.

2 More correctly Kodangulur. In Lat. 10° 23' N . Identified by SiH. Yule with the ancient Cynkali, or Cyncilim, or Shinkala, the seat

of one of the old Malabar principalities, and celebrated as the placewhere St. Thomas first preached in India, and where Muhammadans,and Jew s also, first settled in Ind ia. Called Singugli by Jordanus,and Jangli by Rashid-udin. (See Yule's Cathay, vol. i, p. 75.) Ta ke nby the Dutch in 1662.

3 As this is one of the last references to Cocin in these letters,a few facts may be here mentioned in addition to those given ante atp. 199, note 1. T he town is situated somew hat peculiarly on theextremity of a spit of land twelve miles long, to the east of which isan extensive backwater, which affords an advantageous means ofcom mu nication, open at all seasons of the year. Th e town is wellbuilt, but it enjoys an unenviable reputation in regard to healthiness,owing to the prevalen ce of elephantiasis, otherwise called " Cochinleg". (See Eastw ick's Handbook of Madras, p. 316.)

4 See ante, p. 2, note 1, and p. 395.



4 4 2 MALIK AMBAR AND MULLA MUHAMM AD.

Sum (or else a greater sum once for all) that Licence might

be granted them to celebrate Marriages in Goa, accordingto their own Rite, which ordinarily was not allowed them.But all these courses were not sufficient to dispatch theFleet with th at diligence which was des ired ; and in themean time it was said that many Dutch, or English, Shipsinfested the Ports of Gaul,1 Bassaim,2 and Dadul? withoutcontroll; by all which it appears to me that matters inIndia go every day from bad to worse.

XIII .—On October the one and thirtie th news came toGoa that Melik Ainbar? who for a good while successfullywarr'd against Adil-Sciah ̂ at length in a victory had takenone Mulla Muhhamed, General of Adil-SciaHs Arm y andmuch favor'd by him ; who by his ill dem eanor towardsthe said Melik (even so far as to endeavour to get himpoyson'd) was the occasion of the present Warr, wherein

Melik's chief intent was to revenge himself on the saidMulla Muhhamed: whom being thus take n, they say, hebeheaded and caus'd him in that manner to be carry'dabout his Camp with this Proclamation ; that this TraytorMulla Muhhamed, the cause of the W arr and presentdiscords between Adil-Sciah and Nizam-Sciak? (to whomthis Melik is Governour) otherwise F riends and Allies, was

thus in the Name of his Lord Adil-Sciah, as a Traytorand disturber of the publick Peace, pu t to dea th. By whichact Melik meant to signifie that he had no evil intentionagainst Adil-Sciah, but onely took up Arm s for the m is-chiefs done him by Mulla Muhhamed, whom he desir'd toremove from the Governm ent of Adil-Sciah and from theworld. Yet it was not known how Adil-Sciah receiv'd thisaction, and what end the business would have.

1 See ante, p. 140, note 1. 2 See ante, p. 16, note 3.3 See ante, p. 136, note 4. 4 See ante, p. 134, note 2.5 See ante, p. 143, not e 5. ° See ante, p. 134, note 1.



ADIL SHAH'S PROCEEDINGS. 44 3

In this Warr, they say, the Mogol1 favor'd Adil-Sciahagainst Melik and supply'd him with 20,000 Horse : but,be that how it will, Adil-Sciah hath hitherto always goneby the worst and sometimes been in great danger ; Melik,who is a brave Captain, having over-run all the Statealmost to the Gates of Vidhiapor? which is the Royal Cityof Adil-Sciah, where he hath sometimes been forc'd toshut himself up as if it were besieg'd. A few m oneths beforeAdil-Sciah put one of his principal Wives to death, forconspiracy which she was said to hold with Melik, and forhaving been a party in promoting this Warr, out of designto remove Adil-Sciah from the G overnment, as one becomeodious to his own people, either through his covetousness,or inability (being infirm), and to place his Son in his room,who therefore was in danger too of being put to death byhis Father when the conspiracy was discover'd.

Further news came that Adil-Sciah had deposed fromthe government and imprison'd the Governour of themaritime Territories bordering upon Goa, who had latelygiven the Portugals so m any disgusts ; which seem'd tosignifie that he was minded to give them some satisfaction:that he had given the place to Chogia Riza or Regeb, aPersian, lately Governour of Dabul? who being in greateremploym ents at Court will send a Deputy, and from whom,being prudent, and formerly a friend to the Portugals, theyhope better dealings.

QnNovember the first the ConfraternitydellaMisericordia^made a solemn Procession in the evening, (as they use to doyearly upon this day) going with two Biers from their ownChurch to the Church of our Lady de la Luz? to fetch the

1

I.e., the Emperor Jahangir. (See Elphinstone's Hist, of India,p. 498.)2 See p. 117, note 2, and p. 436, note 6.3 See ante, p. 136, note 4. 4 See ante, p. 382, note 4.6 Ma rked as N o. 23 in the Plan of Goa {ante, p. 154). It was

built in 1540, and rem ained in use up to 1835, but is now remo ved.



44 4 A SEA FIGHT .

bones of all such as had been executed this year and buriedunder the Gallows ; which they carry in Procession, first tothis latter, and then to their own, Church to bury, wherealso they make solemn Exequies for them.

On November the second, in the Evening, the Dominicans^made their solemn Procession del Rosario with muchSolem nity, and so also the ne xt morn ing, having deferr'dthe same from the first Week of October till now, becausethe rain uses to disturb it in October.

This day news came to Goa tha t a Ship belonging tothe J/ogol's subjects, at her departing for Giddd 2 from thePor t of Din,3 had there given security to return to the samePort to pay the usual Customs to the Portugals, whichwould have amounted to above five thousand Scicrifines^but the Ministers of Diu were contented with small security,which was no more than four thousand Scicrifincs: yet,

when the said Ship came back very rich, she would nottouch at Din, little caring to discharge the small security,but put in at a place upon tha t Coast belonging to theMogul between D in and Cambaia:' The Portugals, under-standing this, sent the Armada of Din, consisting of smallVessels with Oars, to fetch her in to Din by force ; and,the Ship refusing to obey, they fell to fighting. In the

fight those of the Ship kill'd, amongst others, the ChiefCommander of the Portugal Armada ; yet the Armada sobeset the Ship that they first forced her to run on shore, andthen burnt her. It was not true tha t the Chief Cap tain

1 See ante, p. 156, note 2.- For Djidda, or Jcddn, on the west coast of Arabia, in lat.

21° 29' N., a port formerly much frequented by vessels trading

between India and Egypt.3 Or Diul. See ante, pp. 136, note 4, and 397, note 1.4 Scicrifincs, Serafines, or Xcrafini, as they were called at Goa,

were silver coins, equivalent to about 4s. zd., and of about th e samevalue as a Pardao. (See Yule's Hobson-Jobson.)

•' See ante, p. 66, note 2.



DEPAR TURE OF TH E ARMADA. 44 5

was slain ; the Ship was taken indeed, but em pty, the Moorshaving had time to save most of their wealth upon Land ,but nevertheless they suffer'd much dammage. By this acci-dent it may be doubted whether some disgust be not likelyto ensue between the Mogol and the Portugals; and Iknow not whether it may not somewhat retard the PortugalArmada and Cafila} which was ready to set sail forCambaia?

On November the fourth the Armada of Colletta% departedfrom Goa to fetch provisions ; it was to go to Cocin* andtherefore the newly consecrated Arch-Bishop of Serrd* im-barqu'd in it to go to his residence; so also did F. AndreaPalmeiro, Visitor of the Jesuits, my friend, to visit thathis Province ; and F. Laertio Alberti, an Italian, with manyother Jesuits who came out of Europe this year to go andreside there. Th e same day, an Almadiaf or small Boat, of

CiauF came to Goa with news of a Vessel arriv'd therefrom Mascatf and also a Ship from Bassora9; both whichreported that Ortniiz10 was in much distress by the Siege,so that many Moors, soldiers, escap'd out of the Town toRuy Freira; after whose arrival the Siege proceeded pros-perously for us, with good order and much hope ye t, ifthe succours were sent from Goa, which Ruy Freira veryimportuna tely desir'd. A t Bassora, they said, all wasquiet.

This will be the last that I shall write to you from Goa,being ready to depart out of India (if it please God) withina few dayes and desirous to return to my Country, whereI may see and discourse with you ; the first object that I

1 See ante, p . 121, note 3. 2 See ante, p. 66, note 2.3 See ante, p. 354. 4 See ante, p. 199, note 1.5 See ante, p. 440. 6 See ante, p. 122, note I.7 See ante, p. 140, note I.8 See ante, p. 158, note 7, and p. 187, note 3.9 See ante, p. 442, note 3. 10 See ante, p. 2, note 1.



4 4 6 CONCLUSION O LETTER VIII

propose to myself at my revisiting our dear Italy. How-

ever, I shall not omit in my way to acquaint you with myadventures, to the end that my Let ters may forerun me and

be the harbingers of my arrival. I reserve many things to

tell the Sig. Dottore, and Signor Colleita, and those other

Gentlemen my friends, who, I am confident, join in my

prayers to God for my prosperous arrival; from whom

wishing you all happiness, I rest, etc.

NOTE.—With reference to the mention made in this Letter of themission to ̂ Ethiopia and of Sultan Saghed, king of that country (seep. 433), and to that of the Christians of San Tome (see p. 440), it maybe useful to remind readers that an account of the Nestorian sect,and of the Christians of " St. Thomas in Ind ia', as also of the Jesuitmission to Abyssinia (here called Êthiopia), will be found in chap,

xlvii of Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, in whichaccount Sultan Saghed appears as the Emperor Segued". Onhis death the Jesuits were expelled from the country by his sonBasilides, and, in the words of the historian, " the gates of that solitaryrealm were for ever shut against the arts, the science, and thefanaticism of Europe".



I N D E X

Abag-devi-Ciautru, Queen of Olala, hermeeting with Pietro della Valle, 306;description of, 307; interview withPietro della Valle, 308-10; her his-tory, 313; becomes the wife of theKing of Banghel, 313; puts herselfunder the protection of Venk-tapa,314; her energetic attention to drain-age works, 337; promises an audienceto Pietro della Valle, 338; fails tosend for him, 342

Acosta, Christopher, writer on d rugs, 37Adil, Shah, meaning of the name, 149;

his fears of Selim Shah , 151 ; h is wantof courtesy towards the Portuguese,196; pays tribute to Selim Shah, 243 ;deposes the Governor of territoriesnear Goa, who had given muchtrouble to the Portuguese, 443

Aga Beg, Governor of Cananor, 383Aghoreswara, temple of, 216 n. ; idol

venerated by Venk-tapa, 272Agra, town of, in danger on account of

the rebellion of Sultan Kharram, 48Ahmadabad, royal seat of the province

of Cambay, 34; notice of, 92; de-scription of, 95; trees in, 95; palacein, 97 ; image of the Virgin Mary in,98; temple of Mahadeo in, 98 ; arti-ficial lake near, 102

Albertino, Antonio, rector of the Jesuits'college at Dam an, 116 ; exchangesletters with Pietro della Valle, 121,124 ; takes Pietro della Valle to thecollege, 133; provides accommoda-tion for Mariam Tinatin, 133

Alvares, Don Nugno, governor of thecoast of Kaffraria, his arrival fromMozambique, 429

Ambassador, the. See LeitonAmbe, or Mango, plant of India, 40Amboyna, massacre of, xxviiAndrada. See Ruy Freira d'AndradaAsaf Khan, notice of, 47 n . ; possibly

aided Kharram's rebellion, 55; heldin custody, 121

Ayres de Siqueira Baraccio, sea captain,354, 355 ; lands at Goa at night, 394Azarg, Beca, a learned B rahman, 75 ;

identifies B rahma with P ythago ras, 76

Baber, a descendant of Tamerlane,founds the Mogu l dynasty, 48 ; noticeof, 51

Badrapoor, town near Ikkeri, 243Baldinotti, Pietro della Valle's confessor

in Goa, 163Bale Rairu, heir to Saluva Rairu, 318Banghel, description of, 302; King of,

313. 315Baraccio, Ayres de Siqueira. See Ayres

de SiqueiraBarocci, town of. See BroachBaroccio, Ruy Gomez, priest in Goa,

shows civility to Pietro della Valle,180; takes him to visit the Bishop ofCochin, 199; shows hospitality toPietro della Valle, 394; accompanieshim to Guadalupe, 404

Barros, Giovanni di, Portuguese his-torian, notice of, 34 n.

Barselor, Higher and Lower towns,notice of, 297

Bassein, seaport town, 16, 17Batkal, town, notice of, 390 n.Beca Azarg. See Azarg, BecaBenastarim, fort near Goa, account of,

180; lovely view from, 18 1; captainof, 181. See Gerda

Betle, use of, in India, 226, 255Bhadr Amma, wife of Venk-tapa, her

death, 207; account of, 208-9Bhat Nath, or Batinato, King of the

Jogis, 345; is visited by Pietro dellaValle, 350; description of, 351; de-clines to write his name, 351

Bombay, ceded to England by Dutch,xxxiv

Borges, Antonio, resident in Barselor,298

Brahma, figure of, in temple at Nagar,112; identified with Pythagoras, 76,108, i n ; and the lotus flower, fableof, 408

Brahmans, the most noble caste inIndia, 88; dispute with Jesuits as touse of sacred thread, 88-91

Broach, or Bharoch, description of, 60;cotton trade of, 60-1

Bulachi, Sultan, son of Sultan Khushru ,notice of, 59 n.

Cacciatur, or Galal, servant to Pietrodella Valle, is unable to leave Surat,126 ; is left in charge of Vanden-broecke, 129 ; who sends him afterPietro della Valle, disguised as anIndian, 130 ; dismissed for theft, 292



448 INDEX.

Calecut. See KalfcotCambay, principal town of Guzarat,

desire of Pietro della Valle to visit, 46 ;the governor is removed by Kh arram ,62 ; description of town of, 6 6; treat-ment of animals in, 67-8, 70 ; gardenat, 68 ; temple at, 69, 7 1 ; singers anddancers at, 71 ; temple of idols at, 71 ;departure of Pietro della Valle from,92 ; high tide, or bore, seen from,103 ; temple of Vaishnavas, near, 105;corpse-burning at, 115

Cananor, description of the city and itschurches, 382; La Misericordia at,382

Canara. See Kanara

Celuua Rairu. See SaluvaCharles, Prince, and the Spanish mar-riage, 171, 214, 255, 278, 425, 438.

Chawul, arrival of Pietro della Valle at,140 ; cathedra l church at, 141 ; hillat, held by the Moors, 141 ; taken bythe Portuguese, 141

Chog ia R iza, a Persian, friendly towardsthe Portuguese, is appointed governorof territories adjoining Goa by AdilShah, 443

Chorrom, Sultan. See KharramChosrou, Sultan. See KhushruChristm as E ve, litanies sung on ships on,

381; cakes drugged by soldiers on,381Cicco, Portuguese boy at the court of

Vikera, 357, 364Clavijo, Ruy Gonzales de, writes his-

tory of Tamerlane's conquests, 50Clusius. See l'EcluseCochin, notice of, 199; Bishop of, ad-

ministers the Archbishopric of Goa,199

Comm andant, the. See VandenbroeckeCortereal, Giovan Pereira, Admiral of

the Portuguese fleet, 438Cos, or Cord, measure of distance, 23Costa, Ventura da, native of Kanara,his marriage at Goa, 427Courten, Sir William, obtains a licence

to trad e in India, xxix ; the licencenot renewed, xxix

Cow-dung, use of, in India, 87, 230, 231,318, 336

Cugna, Lena da, Portuguese gentle-woman at Goa, receives Mariam Tina-tin into her house, 160 ; retains herduring the absence of Pietro dellaValle, 200

Cutb, Shah. See Kutb, Shah

Dabul attacked by Eng lish ships, Whaleand Dolphin 136-7

Dalboquerque, Afonso, his arrival inIndia, xi; sacks Kalfkot, xi

Daman, Portuguese city, arrival ofPietro della Valle at, 132; descriptionof the city and cathedral, 133

Davali, Hindu feast of lamps in honourof Kali, wife of Siva, 206

Davis staff used by Capt. Woodcock12

Dhe r, or Dhed, a low and despised castein India, 113

Diu, sea-fight at, 444Dolphin English vessel, 4 ; leaves Surat

on secret mission, 130Drugs, writers on, 37Dutch, take ports and forts from Portu-

guese, xii; their disagreement withthe East India Company, xxvi etseq. ;their treaty for a cessation of hostili-ties with the East India Company,xxix ; colonise J ava Major, 24 ; seizePortuguese orphans and marry them,25; show great courtesy towardsPietro della Valle, 26; entertain Pietrodella Valle at Broach, 61; and atCambay, 66

East India Company, charter of incor-poration, xvii ; first factory, xix ; newc arters of James I, xxii ; establishesa factory at Surat, xxiii ; its struggleswith the Dutch, xxvi etseq. ; is autho-rised to build forts, xxviii ; firmanfrom King of Golkonda and fromMogul Emperor, xxviii ; its treaty fora cessation of hostilities with theDutch, xxix ; takes island of Pulo-roone, xxxi; new charter of Chas. II,xxxi ; is authorised to establish garri-sons and keep ships of war, xxxii ;change of character of the Company,xxxv

English, entertain Pietro della Valle atAbm adabad, 95 ; attack Dabu l, 137 ;massacred by Selim Shah at Surat,417 ; impolitic behaviour of, 418. Seealso East India C ompany

Europe, news from, 425-7, 439

Farnese, R anuccio, news of death of, 171Fernandez, Francesco, Vicar of Chawul,

142Fernandez, Gio. See LeitonFernandez, Hettor, captain of war-ships,

194, 205, 299Figue roa, Don Garcia de Silva y, for-

merly Spanish ambassador in Persia,account of, 188 n. \ resides in Go a,189

Foufel, plant of India, 40Francescbi, Giacinto, a Florentine in

Goa, 163Francisco, Christoforo Fernandez, cap-tain of fortress of Onor, 204

Gama, Don Francisco da, Viceroy atGoa, 158; visit of Pietro della Valleto , 175 ; his arran gem ents to assistRuy Freira at Ormuz, 396 ; his luke-warmn ess in assisting Ruy F reira, 398



INDEX. 449Ganesa, son of Mahadeo and Parvati,

fable of, 73Garsopa, account of Queen of, 219 ;

kingdom of, conquered by Venk-tapa,219 ; beauty of river of, 220 ; pepper-growing in, 221

Gerda, Manoel Pereira de la, captainof the fort at Benastarim, 181

Ghats, description of, 222 ; fortress andtemple in, 223 ; cistern in, 223; nativeschool in, 227

Giaccama, widow in lkkeri, who re-solves to burn herself 266, 273

Giagata, calls his dominion after him-self Giagataio, 50

Giovanni, Christoforo di, a learned Por-tuguese in Goa, 163

Giovio, Paolo, an Italian in the Jesuits'college at Bassein, 139

Goa, description of, 154-5; many re-ligious orders in, 156 ; many slavesin, 157 ; pomp and poverty of theinhab itants of, 157 ; laxity of m oralsof the Portuguese in, 161 ; account ofthe Jesuits in, 162 n. ; learned menin, 163 ; Jesuits' convent the hand -somest in, 164 ; religious processionin, 167 ; two summers an d two wintersevery year in , 170 ; arrival of fourCarmelites from Rome at, 172 ; deathof three of them , 172 ; Carm elite re-joicing for th e canonization of S.Tere siain , 173; masquerade in honourof S. Teres ia in, 173 ; mass in praiseof S. Teresia in, 174; masqueradeon feast of S. John Bap tist in, 177 ;Ramazan celebrated in, 179; largewell at, constructed by the Hindus,182 ; church of S. Anna at, 182;wether used instead of horse in col-lege of S. P aul at, 185 ; H indu feastat Narva in, 186 ; feast of the Rosaryat, 190 ; account of archbishopric of,199 ; Jesuit procession in, 402 ; canon-ization festival at, 410, 413 ; repre-senta tion of life of S. Xavier, 410 ;beatification mass at, 411; processionof Augustines at, 414 ; priest-riddenstate of, 415 ; exact pos ition of, 417 ;inquisitor's festival in, 421 ; feast offirst-fruits in, 436 ; arrival of annu alPortuguese fleet at, 437 ; arrival ofvessels from Mascat at, 439 ; con-secration of Archbishop of Angamaleat, 440 ; procession of the confrater-nity of the Misericordia in, 443 ; Do-minican procession del Rosario in,444 ; viceroy at, see Gama

Gopi, builder of a reservoir at Surat,34 ; was probab ly governor of Su rat,34

Govea, Gaspar di, Procurator of Jesuits'college at Bassein, shows courtesy to-wards Pietro della Valle, 138

Greenland , alleged discovery of, by Capt.Woodcock, 5 ; description of, 6

Guadalupe, description of, 404; nyct-anthes and lotus flowers at, 406-7

Gulielmo, a Dutch m erchant at S urat,120 ; his marriage, 123

Guzarat, province of India, 34; noticeof, 92 n.

Hindu Nairs, succession by female lineamong , 218

Hin dus , saint, or divining woman of the,224

Holi, or Holika, Hindu festival, 122Honelli, description of the town of, 234;

temple of idols at, described, 235-7;religious procession at, 238; groundplan of the temple at, 241

Horto. See OrtoHumayun, son of Baber, 51 n.

Idols, the worship of, in India, 38, 71 ,72

lkkeri, royal seat of Venk-tapa, descrip-tion of, 244 ; description of the palaceat, 250-1; feast of Mahadeva, cele-brated by girls in, 258-9, 261 ; Janga-ma friars in, 260 ; costume of soldiersin, 260; dancing woman in, 263; exactposition of, 264, 268 ; widow of, re-solves to burn herself 266 ; tem ple ofAghoreswara, or Mahadeo, 268 ; Jan-gami in, 268 ; dancing women in, 272;dancing priest in, 277 ; religious pro-cession in, 279 ; religious dancing in,269, 281-2 ; religious festival in, 283.

India, arrival of Pietro della Valle in, 20;rainy season in, 32, 33, 432 ; use ofpan leaves and areca-nut in, 36 ; theworship of idols in, 38, 71-2; plantsof, 40 ; small cost of living in, 42 ;num ber of slaves in, 42 ; dress ofnatives of, 43 ; dress of women of, 44 ;fantastic religions of, 73 ; love of red-colouring in, 74 ; castes in, 77 ; reli-gions in, 79 ; belief in the transmigra-tion of souls in, 80 ; ceremonies ofpurification in, 81, 87, 232 ; dri nk ingin the air in, 82 ; m orality in, 82-3 ;condition of widows in, 83 ; widow-burnin g in, 83-5 ; treatment of ani-mals in, 86-7 ; use of cow-dung in, 87,230. Z 3 > 3 l8 > 336 ; monkeys in, 93-4 ;armed beggars in, 94 ; inns in, 95 ;musical instrum ent used in, 117 ;account of kingdoms in, 144 ; confu-sion of the provinces in, 149 ; politicalcondition of Moorish princes in, 150-2;the distribution of rains in, 174;native carriages in, 183 ; ear-pendan tsmuch worn in, 195 ; similarity ofEgyptian gods with those of, 217 ;succession by females in, 218 n ., 312,318 ; description of torches in, 22 9;neglect of learning and books by thepriests of, 278 ; rice-growing in, 296 ;

G G



450 INDEX.

special colours adopted by princes in,319; etiquette of warfare in, 380.

Indus, wrongly stated by geographersto flow into the Gulf of Cambay, 63

Jahangfr. See Selim ShahJesuits, dispute with Brahmans as to

the use of the sacred thread, 88-91 ;news of the martyrdom of, in Japan,409 ; their mission to Ethiopia, 433-4 ;their friendly relations with Pietrodella Valle, 434

Jinghiz Khan, conquers vast dominions,50 ; leaves Samarcand to his son Gia-gata, 50

Jogis, or Gymnosophists, religious fan-atics, 37, 99, 105, 107, 113; theirking, Bhat Nath, 345 et seq.

Kadiri, temple of the Jogis on the hill of,345 n. ; description of, 346-50

Kali, or Bhawani, Hindu goddess, wifeof Siva, 206 n.

Kalflcot, account of, 344 n. ; exact posi-tion of, 359; description of, 360 ; cos-tumes in, 360; description of thepalace at, 363; plan of the palace at,377 ; community of wives in, 379Kdnara, notice of, 68 n.

Karnata, Queen of, subject to Venk-tapa, 314 ; desire of Pietro della Valleto visit, 352, 384; story of, 353

Kharram, Sultan, third son of SelimShah, 47 ; rebels against his father,47 ; obtains possession of SultanKhushru, 57 ; brings about his death,58 ; rumoured sack of Agra by, 121;is defeated by Selim Shah, 177; isrouted by Selim Shah, 419

Khushru, Sultan, rebels against his father,Selim Shah, 55 ; is imprisoned, 56 ;declines to marry Nurmahal s daugh-ter, 57; is killed by order of SultanKharram, 58

Korfakan taken and destroyed by RuyFreyra, 188

Kutb Shah, account of, 147-8 ; receivesSultan Kharram into his territory, butdoes not aid him, 419

Lakshmi, goddess of prosperity, wife ofVishnu. 206 n .

Lareck, arrival of Pietro della Valle off,

Leandro, Fra, Provincial Vicar of theCarmelites at Goa, 159 ; his courtesytowards Pietro della Valle, 159

L Ecluse, Charles de, or Clusius, botan-ist and translator, 37

Leiton, Gio. Fernandez, PortugueseAmbassador toVenk-tapa Naieka, 168;treats with the captain of the fort at

Onor, 2 04 ; is delayed at Onor onaccount of the death of Bhadr Amm a,210 ; his interview with Vittala Sinaia,211 ; is called to audience with V enk-tapa, 247 ; his interview with Venk-tapa, 252; his want of dignity, 253,257 ; his dissimulation towards Venk-tapa, 288; Manoel, son of the Ambas-sador, a soldier in the fleet, 355

Leni, Alessandro, a Roman in Goa, 163Lingam, an emblem of Siva, 93, 100,

208, 235, 341Lucena, Joam de, Portuguese writer,

no, inLucia, Donna, Portuguese orphan,

married to a Dutch merchant at

Surat, 25 ; sends for Mariam Tinatlnto lodge with her, 26Luis, Sebastian, master of a vessel at

Daman, 124

Maani, Gioerida (Sitta Maani), hermarriage with Pietro della Valle, ii ;her death at Mina, iii, 45 n.; her burialat Rome, iv ; the body of, 122

Macran passed by Pietro della Valle, 7 ;prince of, friendly to the Persians,401

Maffaeus, J. P., Italian writer, 180Mahadeo, Hindu idol of, 73; fable of,73; temple of, in Ahmadabad, nearCambay, 93, 101; temple of, at Ik-keri, 268 ; or Putia somndta, princi-pal god of the Queen of Olala, 341

Mahadeva, a title of Siva, 259 ».Malabar rovers, threatened encounter

with, 356; friendly vessels mistakenfor, 390

Maldiva, King of, resides in Goa andreceives tribute-money, 179

Malik Ambar, Abyssinian slave, rulerof Ahmadnagar, 134; account of,146

Manel, residence of the Queen of Olala,306; description of the palace of,317; ground-plan of the palace of,324; temple to the Devil in, 339;exact position of, 342

Mangalur, description of, 301 ; exactposition of, 346 ; arrival of the Samoriof Kalfkot s embassy at, 354 ; noticeof, 386

Mariam, Signora. See Tinatln di ZibaMariam, Signora, her marriage with

Signor Guglielmo, 123Mariuccia. See Tinatln di Ziba, MariamMarmagaon, church of St. Andrea at,

393Masagna, Joseph, an Italian in Goa,

163Mascarenhas, Freites, adventuresof, 435Mascat, news from, 422Mater, town between Cambay and

Ahmadabad, 93





452 INDEX.

household, 41; present at a weddingin Slirat, 124; meets Pietro dellaValle at the seaside, 129

Roe, Sir Thomas, his embassy to theMogul Emperor, xxiv; his treatieswith him, xxiv-xxv

Ruy Freira de And rada, comm ands war-ships agains t the P ersians, 158 ; be-sieges Sohar, 1 87; takes Korfakan,188 ; his cruelty towards th e in hab it-ants, 188 ; is forced to raise the siegeof Orm uz, 39 7; news of, 399, 400 ;ships sent to bis aid, 416

Sa, Constantino da, his courtesy towardsPietro della Valle, 164Sabarmati, river near Ahmadabad, 100Saghed, Sultan, reported to b ea member

of the Catholic Church, 433, 446 n.See Preti Jann i

Sagher, new city, description of, 265Sain ts, canonization of five, 170Salsette, arrival of Pietro della Valle at,

139 ; province of, 392Saluva Rairu, son of the Queen of

Olala, 316 ; description of, 319 ; begsPietro della Valle to procure him agood horse, 334

Samori. See VikiraSavoy, Prince of, news of his appoint-ment as Viceroy of Sicily, 189

Scander, Rastel's interpreter, lent toPietro della Valle, 29

Schipano, Antonio, kinsman of MarioSchipano, visits Pietro della Valle atGoa, 159-60

Schipano, Mario, medical professor andfriend of Pietro della Valle, ii; recipi-ent of his letters, vii

Scilling, Alberto di, friend of Pietrodella Valle in Surat, 19 ; visits Pietrodella Valle on the sea-shore, 2 2 ;urges Pietro della Valle to lodgewith Vandenbroecke, 26 ; undertakesto find a house for Pietro della Valle,27 ; agrees to accompany Pietro dellaValle to Cambay, 46 ; leaves Cambayfor Ah madab ad, 92 ; visits a Jesuitfrom Goa, 116; present at a weddingin Surat, 124 ; leaves S urat on theDolphin 130

Seda-Siva Nayak, grandson of Venk-tapa, 284

Selim Shah, his religious toleration,30, 27 n.; removes the royal treasure

from Agra, 47 ; why called the GreatMogul, 48 ; his descent from Tamer-lane and Jinghiz Kh an, 49, 51 n. ;originally called Sceichii, 51 ; hismany titles, 52 • n ' s sons, 52-3 ; hiswife Nur Mahal , 53 ; his cruelty toKhushru and his followers, 56; en-counters his rebel son Kharram anddefeats h im, 177 ; besieges him at

Ma ndu, 177 ; massacres the Englishin Surat, 417

Shias and Sunis, rival sects of Muham-madans, 152

Sitta Maani. See Maani, Gioerida.Siva, idol, 236 n. ; the festival of, 259 ;

See also MahadeoSohili visited by Pietro della Valle and

the English captains, 22Sohar besieged by Ruy Freira, 187Sojitra, town near Cambay, 103Sombol Shah, brother of Selim Sbab, 52Sorrentino, Vincenzo, chaplain to the

Spanish Ambassador in Persia, 160Surat, arrival of Pietro della Valle off,

18 ; factories at, 9 n. ; Pietro della

Valle enters, 23 ; description of, 30 ;religious toleration in, 30; marriagecelebration in, 31 ; description ofartificial lake in, 32-3 ; large bany an-tree near, 35, 39 ; garden in, visitedby Pietro della Valle, 39 ; abundanceof fruit in, 47 ; m assacre of the Englishat, 417

Tamerlane, or Teimur Lenk, descendedfrom Jinghiz K ha n, 4 9 ; notice of,49 n . ; elected King of Giagataio, 50 ;

expeditions of, 50Telingana, a kingdom of the Dakhan,144

Teresia, Saint, rejoicings for the canoni-zation of, at Goa, 173

Tinatin di Ziba, Maria, taken under theprotection of Pietro della V alle, iv ;her marriage with Pietro della Valle,iv ; goes to lodge with Donna Lucia,26; special permission is required forher to leave Ah ma dabad , 102 ; ispresent at a wedding at S urat, 123 ;lodges with Portuguese gentlewomanin D am an, 133 ; is received in to the

house of Sig. Lena da Cugna at Goa,160 ; remains in Goa w ith S ig. Lenada Cugna, 200

Tu mb ri, arrival of Pietro della Valle at,230

Urban VIII, Pope, election of, 426;death of cardinals after the election of,426

Valle, Pietro della, birth, i; joins Span-ish fleet, i ; present at the cap ture ofKarkenssa Islands, ii; starts for theEast, ii; marriage, ii; goes to Persiawith his wife, iii; takes part in battleagainst the Turks, iii; embarks forIndia, iv ; returns to Rom e, iv ;second marriage, iv; retires fromRome, v; death and burial, vi; his



INDEX. 453

love of music, v i; Egyptian travels, vi;study of Assyrian cuneiform writings,vii; arrival off Lareck, 3 ; arrives offBassein, 16 ; arrives off Siirat, 18 ;lands in India, 20 ; is attacked byague, 21 ; is visited by Alberto diScilling, 22 ; visits Sohali with Al-berto di Scilling, 22 ; reaches thetown of Sura t, 23 ; declines offers ofthe English President (Rastel), and ofthe Dutch com mandan t (Vanden-broecke) to lodge with them , 26 ; isconstrained by Vandenbroecke toenter his house, 27 ; occupies houselent to him by Vandenbroecke, 28 ;in so doing offends Rastel, 28; isreconciled by means of a letter, 29 ;desires to visit Cambay, 46 ; leavesSurat for Cambay, 47 ; takes leave ofVandenbroecke, 5 9; arrives at Broach,60 ; stays at Jam busir, 62 ; crossesthe river Mhye, 64 ; arrives at Cam-bay, 66 ; leaves Cambay, 92 ; lodgesat Saima, 93; leaves Ahmadabad,101 ; returns to Cambay, 103 ; isreceived by the Dutch, 103 ; visits aJesuit from Goa, 116 ; leaves Cambay,118 ; stays at Jambusir, 119 ; reachesBroach, 119; is received by theDutch, 119; arrives at Siirat, 120;exchanges letters with Antonio Alber-

tino, 121, 124 ; visits Captains Wood-cock and Willis at Sura t, 130 ; partswith Scilling, 130; commences hisvoyage with Sebastian Luis , 131 ;arrives at Daman, 132; is receivedby Antonio Albertino, 133 ; eatsmany new fruits at Dam an, 134;leaves Daman, 137 ; arrives at Bas-sein, 138 ; visits the Jesuits' College,139 ; arrives at Salsette, 139 ; leavesChawul, 143 ; arrives at Goa, 154 ;lodges with Je suits, 160 ; attend smass at the Carmelite Church inGoa, 162; wears mourning sincedeath of his wife Sitta Maani, 165,412 ; visits the Viceroy at Goa, 175 ;gives him his account of wars in Persia,176; arranges to accompany Gio. Fer-nandez Leiton to the court of Venk-tapa, 192 ; goes to Panjim, or NewGoa by sea, 193 ; is introduced toVittala Sinaia, 195 ; returns to Goato obtain a licence from the Viceroy,198 ; encounters pirates, 201 ; arrivesat Onor, 202 ; leaves Onor with Leiton,217 ; visits a widow in Ikkeri aboutto burn herself 273; experiencestrouble in obtaining su itable food, 294 ;visits Colur, 295; is in danger ofshipwreck, 299 ; arrives at Mangahir,300; visits Banghel, 302; and Olala,303; leaves Mangaliir, 305 ; meetsQueen Abag-devi-Ciautrii, 306 ; visitsSaluva Rairu, 321 ; presents him witha ma p of the world, 322 ; is con-

strained by him to eat, 323 ; showshim the use of the fork, 331; answershis questions, 332 ; is esteemed onaccount of white skin, 335 ; leavesManel, 343 ; visits Bhdt N ath , Kin gof the Jog is, at Kddiri, 350 ; visitsMangaliir a second time, 355 ; decidesto accompany embassy to KaUkot,355 ; is invited to visit t he S amori'spalace at Kalikot, 363 ; leaves Kalf-kot, 381 ; arrives at Goa, 394 ; lodgeswith Ant. Baraccio , 394 ; receives newsof Cacciatur, 395

Vandenbroecke, Pietro, President of theDutch settlement at Siirat, 25 ; de-scription of his house, 26 ; importunesPietro della Valle to lodge with him,27; lends a h ouse to P ietro della Valle,28 ; takes Pietro della Valle to visita garden in Siirat, 39 ; splendour ofhis household, 4 ; escorts Pietro dellaValle out of th e town of Surat, 47 ;receives news from Agra, 47

Veira, Ascentio, notary in Mangaliir,301

Venk-tapa Nayak, Prince of Kanara,168 ; account of, 190-1 ; news of deathof his wife, 207 ; is dissatisfied withthe embassy of Leiton, 212 ; conquersthe kingdom of G arsopa, 219 ; paystribute to Adil Shah, 243 ; his treatywith the King of Banghel, 285; hisdistrust of the Kinp of Banghel, 286 ;assists the Queen of Olala against theKing of Banghel, 314

Viceroy. See GamaVikira, Samori of Kalikot, 345; his

negotiations w ith the Viceroy, 357 ;his two nieces at Kalfkot, 366 ; de-scription of, 367; converses withPietro della Valle and a Portuguesecaptain, 369 ; speaks of the Viceroy'sdemands, and desires time, 370 ; ad-mires a Portuguese arquebus, 371

Villa di Bahmani, village near Onor,207Vira-badra Nayak, grandson of Venk-

tapa, 284Virena Deuru, or Lingam, an emblem

of Siva, 235, 238Vittala Sinaia, ambassador from Venk-

tapa to Viceroy, 191 ; visits the cap-tain of the fort at Onor, 206; hisinterview with L eiton , 211 ; presen tsPietro della Valle with a H indu bookwritten on palm-leaves, 291

Whale English sbip, 1 ; leaves Surat ona secret mission, 130Widow in Ikkeri resolves to burn her-

self 266Willis, Matthew, captain of the Dol-

phin 3 ; is visited by Piet ro dellaValle at Surat, 130

Woodcock, Nicholas, captain of the



454 INDEX.

Whale 3; exhibits a gigantic horn, : Xerafin, 184

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