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Fibers and Textile

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

    1

    Identification of fibers

    * Vegetable fibers:

    All vegetable fibers of cellulesic structure that is polymer of -glucose

    The difference between them in the degree of crystallinity, the length, luster

    and strength

    Note: starch is polymer of -glucose

    *Animal fibers:

    They are polypeptide from amino acids and the difference come from the

    type of amino acids and its order in the formation of the fibers.

    *Synthetic fibers:

    They are made from polymer (used as beads) by melting or dissolving it in

    suitable solvent then passing this solution threw spinneret ((vessel (made

    from metal resists the high temperature and high pressure) within it holes)).

    Fibers

    Natural Synthetic

    Nylon, acetate , acrylic

    Vegetable

    (Cellulesic)

    Animal (Protenic)

    wool and silk

    Mineral

    Asbestos and glass

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

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    1- fiber length

    staple filament

    Fiber of shorten length

    In cm or inch units

    All natural fiber except silk

    Fibers of longer length in cm

    or inch units

    All synthetic fibers, silk

    Synthetic fibers can be cut to be staple fibers

    Any filament fiber is synthetic and not all staple fiber is

    nature fiber

    2- luster

    bright dull

    All synthetic yarn are bright

    because the yarn is

    composed of small no. of

    fibers and there is nothing

    break the light so; it appears

    in bright appearance

    All nature fiber except silk

    because the large no. of fibers

    and its spinning in the yarn

    that make the no. of ends

    threw the yarn is larger

    Where these fiber ends breaks

    the light causing

    The dull appearance

    The luster of the fibers can be decrease by some of

    treatments as the addition of titanium dioxide (TiO2)

    that breaks the light

    The luster of the fibers can be increase by some

    treatments as the mercerization of cotton.

    Mercerization is the treatment of the fiber in alkaline

    oln. for short time under tension.

    Visual test

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

    4

    3-Touch test:

    Smooth & cool rough & warm

    Cotton fibers give cold feeling because the thermal conductivity of cotton

    that transfers the heat threw it. Wool give warm feeling because the lower thermal conductivity of wool.

    Types of fibers

    Flammable Self-extinguished Flame retardant

    (aramide fibers)

    Burning test

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

    5

    Flammable fibers

    fiber In flame Out flame odour ash

    Cotton

    ViscoseLinen

    yellow continuous Burn paper Gray-blackEasley crashes

    Wool (highsulpher content)

    silk

    burns Ceases ofburning

    Burnt feather Gray-blackEasley crashes

    Weighted silk

    ( silk soaked inSnCl4 & Na3PO3)

    burns Ceases of

    burning

    Burnt feather Have skeleton of

    as originalsample

    nylon melts Ceases of

    burning and melt

    ////////////// Black difficult to

    crush

    Microscopic

    Section

    Cross section Longitudinal

    Section

    Microscopic test

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

    6

    Longitudinal-section

    shape fiber

    convolution Cotton

    Mercerized cotton

    Cross marking linen

    Striations-Longitudinal marking

    viscose

    Scales wool

    Tube line nylon

    Textile

    Pure fiber blend fiber

    One shape more than one shape

    *Solubility test carry on small part from the fibers

    *Benefits of solubility test:A-identification the type of fibers and distinguishing between

    them

    Solubility test

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

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    B-calculate the percentage of each type of pure fibers that make

    the end fiber

    *solubility test depend on choosing the correct solvent whichdissolve one type of the fibers

    Fiber Solvent

    Cellulose acetate Glacial acetic acid

    Vinyon HH Chloroform

    Vinyon N Dimethyle formamideNylon 90% phenol

    Viscose Cuprammonium hydroxide

    Carp ammonium Cuprammonium hydroxide

    Cotton Cuprammonium hydroxide

    Wool 20% bleach (NaClO)Vicara 20% bleach (NaClO)

    Orlon Dimethyle formamide 55 C

    Acrilan Conc. HNO3

    Dacron Conc. HNO3

    Distinguishing between fibers using solubility test:

    1-Animal & vegetable fibers(a)- By boiled 5% lye soln. (caustic soda) (sodium hydroxide)

    animal vegetable fibersdissolve Don

    't effect

    (b)- By acid (2% H2SO4 )A Drop of 2% H2SO4 is placed on the fabric that is placed between

    two bottoms and pressed with hot iron

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

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    animal vegetable fibers

    Dont effect Show charring

    2-cotton & linena-By 1% fachsin (magenta) soln.

    By immersing the fabric (fiber) in this soln. And then washingit then immersing in ammonia soln.

    Cotton linen

    Is dyed by with arose-redcolour and disappear byammonia solu.

    Is dyed by with arose-redthat remain after immersingin ammonia solu.

    b-By immersing the sample in conc.H2SO4 for two minutes

    Cotton linen

    dissolve dont dissolve

    c-by Herzbergs stainHerzbergs solu. Is prepared by addition to a solu. Of ZnCl2

    (20 gm) in water (10 ml) asolu. Of kI (2.1 gm) and iodine (.1gm)

    in water (5ml) is added where the sample is immersed in this solu.

    Cotton linen

    Is colored with reddish purple

    colour

    Is colored with purple

    d-by caustic sodaBy immersing the sample in (10%) caustic soda

    Cotton linen

    Remain white Yellowish

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

    9

    3-silk & woola-by conc. cold HCl

    silk wool

    dissolve swell

    4-Rayons & acetatea-by 50% soln. of acetic acid

    By immersing the sample in this solu.

    Rayon (viscose) Acetate

    does not dissolve dissolves

    *all rayon dissolve in 60% H2SO4 or conc. HCl

    b-By a soln. of equal amounts of H2SO4 conc. And iodine soln

    In immersing the sample in the soln.

    Rayon (viscose) AcetateColored in dark-blue color Yellow colour

    5-acetate, triacetate & other fibersa-by immersing the sample in a soln. of 90% methylene

    chloride 10% ethanol or methanol at R.T for one hour

    Acetate and triacetate Other fibers

    dissolve Dont effect

    c- By immersing the sample in benzyl alcohol at (95 C) (200 F) for

    one hour

    Acetate triacetate

    dissolve Dont effect

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

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    6-nylons acetate & woola-By boiled sod. hydroxide

    Nylons and acetate wool

    Dont dissolve dissolve

    b-by acetone

    nylons acetate

    Dont dissolve dissolve

    * Nylon soluble in conc. Formic acid or phenol and cresol (Meta)

    7- Polyester & nylon* Acetate, nylon and polyester dissolve in hot Meta cresol

    a- by acetone

    Nylon and polyester acetate

    insoluble soluble

    b- By conc. formic acid

    Nylon polyester

    soluble insoluble

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

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    *By Rosaniline dye:

    By immersing sample of cotton and linen in the dye for5second the sample colored with red-pink colour and thenimmersed in conc. NH4OH soln.

    In case of cotton: decolonization of the pink colour is fasterthan in linen

    Colour test

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    Identification of fibers (Awad I. Said)

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    TextilesA) Cellulosic fibers:

    a) Natural : ex. Cotton, flax, jute, hempb) Manufactural : ex. Rayon(viscose)

    O

    H

    OH

    H

    H

    H

    OHH

    O

    OH

    n

    Cellulose

    O

    H

    OH

    H

    H

    H

    OHH

    O

    ONa

    n

    Sod. cellulosate

    O

    H

    OH

    H

    H

    H

    OHH

    O

    O

    n

    Cellulose xanthate

    O

    H

    OH

    H

    H

    H

    OHH

    O

    OH

    n

    Viscose(rayon)

    NaOH

    SNa

    S

    There is a type of cotton is called merecerized cotton that is prepared by immersing the

    cotton fibers under tension in alkalin solution (NaOH 5%) for short time. Mercerizedcotton is characterized with the higher luster and strength. If the cotton fabric are not heldunder tension, the process is called slack mercerization and the obtained fabric is

    characterized with high degree of elasticity.B) Protenic fibers : ex. Wool, silk, mohair, cashmer

    H

    N

    CH2

    OC

    NH

    CH

    CO

    HN

    CH2

    OC

    NH

    CH

    CO

    CH3 CH2OH

    HN

    CH2

    OC

    Febroin Structure in Silk

    CH

    NH

    OC

    CHR

    HN

    CO

    HC

    NH

    OC

    CHR

    HN

    CO

    HC

    CH2

    Keratin Structure in Wool

    R

    CO

    HN

    CHR

    OC

    NH

    HRC

    CO

    HN

    CH

    OC

    NH

    HRC

    CO

    HN

    CH2

    COO

    CH2

    CH2

    CH2

    H2C

    NH3

    S

    S

    CH2

    CH2

    H-BondSalt linkage

    Cystine linkage


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